Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 8, May-Aug 2016

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg and Surrounds May - August 2016

Constitution Hill

Unlock the city’s most inspiring landmark N°8 - R40 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

Joburg nightlife A toast to 130 years

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

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Contents What’s on 6 A round-up of the season’s best events

Arriving & getting around

16

Planes, trains and automobiles

Where to stay

19

Best guest houses, hotels and hostels

Where to eat

22

Suggestions for all tastes and budgets

Joburg history

36

13 decades, 13 personalities

Nightlife

38

Where to drink in Joburg’s history

Sightseeing

44 Constitution Hill 44 Museums 45 Family fun 46 Tours 47 Soweto 48 Kruger route 51

French Joburg

52

A directory for Francophiles

Shopping

53 Cool and quirky stores 53 Best shopping districts 54 Markets 56

Sport & outdoors

58

A swinger’s guide

Joburg basics

60

Essential information for your stay

Districts A-Z

63

Find your way around Maps: Soweto p. 48, City Centre pp. 64–65, Districts p. 63, Sandton p. 66. All City Centre addresses listed in the guide are referenced to the map on pp. 64 and 65.

EDITOR’S NOTE In Your Pocket City Guides publishes independent editorial content. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Venues are selected by our editorial team, and listings are not paid for.

4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Publisher In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd, Postnet Suite #108, Private Bag X7, Parkview 2122, South Africa. For general enquiries, listings updates, events notices and distribution information, mail us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com.

Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz Writer & Editorial Consultant Louise Whitworth Copy-editing & Design Lomin Saayman Researcher Chanelle van der Linde Contributors Carrie Adams, Brett McDougall, Eléonore Godfroy-Briggs, Kgosi Rampa Photography Anton Bosman, Justin Lee and In Your Pocket City Guides Maps © In Your Pocket City Guides Print and digital advertising Contact laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com, tel. +27 82 572 3553.

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

Published February, May and September.

Print deliveries The Joburg Squirrel, www.oembotutravel.co.za ISSN 2311-3944

FOREWORD & COVER Our cover photograph by Justin Lee captures the Constitutional Court, one of South Africa’s proudest democratic institutions and a must-visit destination rich in history, culture and architectural significance. This year marks 20 years since one of the most progressive constitutions in the world was signed into being. At the same time Joburg celebrates 130 years as a city, having emerged from its mining-camp origins to take its place as a major African metropolis. In this issue you’ll find our guide to drinking in Joburg’s history, fascinating personalities that have shaped each decade, cool Soweto, French Joburg, enjoying the city with kids and where to tee off, plus so much more. Read on! In your hands is a passport to being a Joburg insider. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

Urban Village at Roots of Humankind festival

LIVE MUSIC 18.05– 24.05

Mozart’s the Magic Flute. International cast with Gauteng Opera chorus. Joburg Theatre, 20:00. R200–R500.

22.05

Classics in the Gardens. An afternoon of classical music performed by the German Rhine Philharmonic Orchestra. Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens, 14:30–17:00. From R250.

28.05

Africa Day Concert 2016. Mary Fitzgerald Square, Newtown, 16:00. From R210.

12.06

Seal. Ticketpro Dome, 19:00. From R460.

15.06

An evening with George Benson. Ticketpro Dome, 20:00. From R400.

15.06

Hugh Masekela and Abdullah Ibrahim.

Emperors Palace, 18:30. From R450.

18.06

Guitar Giants. Acoustic music festival featuring Derek Gripper and Pops Mohamed.

Nirox Sculpture Park, 10:00–17:00. From R300.

18.08– 20.08

Ronan Keating. Teatro Montecasino, 20:00.

From R430.

See p. 12 for venue details.

6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Joburg has a vibrant arts and culture scene and every week brings a different party, festival, theatre show, concert or art happening. To check out the local live-music scene, visit the venues listed in Nightlife (p. 38). For an up-to-the-minute guide to all the latest events and happenings, sign up for our weekly What’s On newsletter at ow.ly/B7mRh, follow us on Facebook and Twitter, or visit our online events calendar at www.inyourpocket.com/johannesburg/events.

MUSIC FESTIVALS 22.05 SUNDAY ROOTS OF HUMANKIND FESTIVAL This music festival in the Cradle of Humankind features a range of local bands whose modern Afro-folk and maskandi sounds are influenced by traditional African instruments and beats, including BCUC and Urban Village.QNirox Sculpture Park, www.acousticsnow.org. From 10:00–17:00, tickets R300 online, R320 at the gate (subject to availability).

18.06 SATURDAY FÊTE DE LA MUSIQUE This popular annual festival celebrates African francophone music with food, crafts and kids’ activities. Performers include a six-piece Togolese funk band who take their inspiration from the spiritual and musical heritage of the voodoo culture, and French Afro-electronic DJ duo Jess and Crabbe.

QNewtown Junction, Newtown, www.fetedelamusiquejhb.co.za. From 10:00–19:00, entrance is free. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

Rosebank Sunday Market is back!

Rosebank Sunday Market offers the best selection of stylish handcrafted products, vintage finds, amazing art, jewellery,

mouthwatering food, an array of artisan deli offerings and a rooftop bar serving craft beer and chilled wine!

Visit www.rosebanksundaymarket.co.za or our Facebook page and like us for updates & event info. We’re open every Sunday 9am-4pm on Level 4 parking, Rosebank Mall

More than 2 000 parking spaces available, use the entrance in Sturdee Avenue next to the Rosebank Clinic. Take the lifts to Level 4 and simply cross the bridge to access the market.

rosebanksundaymarket.co.za

FOOD AND SHOPPING Pick up unique gifts and feast on delicious snacks at one of Joburg’s popular weekend markets. Favourites include Rosebank Sunday Market (Sun 09:00–16:00) with a fun atmosphere and the biggest selection of local crafts and fashion, vintage bric-a-brac and exotic food stalls, and the long-running Bryanston Organic Market (Thu and Sat 09:00–15:00) known for its high-quality handmade African wares and organic foodstuffs (see p. 56). On weekends the cool crowds descend on chic inner-city markets like Neighbourgoods Market in Braamfontein (73 Juta St, Sat 09:00–15:00) and Market On Main in Maboneng (Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Sun 10:00–15:00).

From June 3-5, the National Antiques Fair takes place at the Sandton Convention Centre, offering a panoply of collectibles, art and decorative objects, and even classic cars.

The fair is in its 16th year and is the biggest antiques event in South Africa.Qwww.naada.co.za.

THE FORUM COMPANY The Forum Company (theforum.co.za) is famous for its culinary events and iconic venues such as Turbine Hall, a former power station in Newtown, and White Light, a scenic farmhouse in Lanseria, north of Joburg. Booking essential.

13.05 and 10.06: Underground Dinner, Turbine Hall 22.05: Farm to Table lunch, White Light 03-05.06: Vintage, with Love clothing sale, The Campus, Bryanston, www.vintagewithlove.co.za 22.06: Christmas in July, White Light facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

FIRST THURSDAYS On the first Thursday of every month you can look forward to contemporary art, live music, DJ sets, poetry, performance art and pop-up bars in Braamfontein, Newtown and Rosebank. Entrance to venues is usually free and most events start from 18:00. For more visit www.first-thursdays.co.za/johannesburg.

BRAAMFONTEIN With its many bars and large student population, you’ll find a real party atmosphere here.

Popular venues include the Neighbourgoods Night Market (73 Juta St) with its gourmet street food, cocktails, live bands and contemporary art galleries Stevenson, Kalashnikovv Gallery and Wits Art Museum.

NEWTOWN First Thursdays in Newtown are centred on the Newtown Junction precinct. Drop into the chic Work Shop New Town boutique shopping emporium for dim sum and drinks, DJ sets, late-night shopping and pop-up exhibitions, plus live music on the Newtown Junction piazza.

ROSEBANK Joburg’s Art Gallery Row, with its wealth of contemporary galleries all lined up along Jan Smuts Avenue, stays open late for First Thursdays with top galleries such as Circa Gallery, Goodman Gallery, David Krut Projects and Lizamore & Associates hosting exhibition openings and opportunities to socialise with locals and the art world’s who’s who over a glass of wine.

May – August 2016

7

What’s On TURBINE ART FAIR 2016 14.07 – 17.07 Now in its fourth year, this contemporary art fair at Newtown’s historic Turbine Hall has become an art calendar fixture attracting thousands to the city over three wintry days. You’ll find close to 50 gallery stands focused on affordable and investment-worthy art, with a ceiling price of R40 000. The fair showcases emerging artists and attracts a hip crowd, there as much for the art as for The Forum Company’s imaginative gourmet fare and a fun social occasion in a fabulous downtown urban setting.QC-4, 65 Ntemi Piliso St, Newtown, www.turbineartfair.co.za. Preview cocktail evening Thu 14.07, 18:00–22:00; Fri 15.07, 10:00–20:00; Sat 16.07, 10:00–18:00; Sun 17.07, 10:00–17:00. Tickets R100, weekend pass R200, preview evening R500. Book at www.webtickets.co.za.

GALLERY INFO CIRCA GALLERY 6 Jellicoe Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, www.circagallery.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. GALLERY MOMO 52 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel +27 11 327 3247, www.gallerymomo.com. Open 09:00– 18:00, Sat 09:00–17:00. Closed Sun. GOODMAN GALLERY 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, www.goodman-gallery.com.

Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. GRAYSCALE GALLERY B-2/3, 33 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0077, www.grayscalegallery.co.za.​ Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun. LIZAMORE & ASSOCIATES 155 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 8802, www.lizamore.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. MOAD G-4, 281 Commissioner St, Maboneng, www. moadjhb.com. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat, Sun10:00–18:00.

Closed Mon. STANDARD BANK ART GALLERY D-5, Cnr Simmonds and Frederick Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 631 4467, www.standardbankarts.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun and public holidays.

STEVENSON GALLERY C-3, 62 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1055, www.stevenson.info. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Closed Sun. WITS ART MUSEUM B-2 University Corner, cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1365, www.wits.ac.za/wam. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon,Tue. 8 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Henri Matisse, The Knife Thrower, Standard Bank Gallery

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 03.06 FRIDAY SEX A group exhibition featuring the works of a number of exciting young African artists including Nandipha Mntambo, Lady Skollie, FAKA and Simon Gush whose works are all a personal response to the one-word question: ‘Sex?’QStevenson Gallery.

UNTIL 28.05 SATURDAY FALKO: EBONY AND THE IVORIES Graffiti artist Falko painted several of his signature elephants in various locations across the country. These murals were then photographed and painted over immediately so that they only exist in photographs.QGrayscale Gallery.

05.05 THURSDAY – 31.05 TUESDAY JUSTIN DINGWALL: ALBUS Albus is an ongoing collaboration between photographer Dingwall and two South African albino models who are presented in intimate and ethereal photographs as angelic figures reminiscent of the Angel Gabriel and the Virgin Mary.QLizamore & Associates.

05.05 THURSDAY – 25.05 WEDNESDAY MISHECK MASAMVU: STILL Zimbabwean artist Masamvu’s colourful paintings are rendered in violent brushstrokes and mix realism and avantgarde expressionism to depict the economic plight and political turmoil in Zimbabwe today.QGoodman Gallery.

13.05 FRIDAY – 05.06 SUNDAY EVERYDAY EDUCATION Amateur and professional photographers from across sub-Saharan Africa explore stories of resilience found in classrooms. Participate in a mock classroom experience, and contribute photographs and written anecdotes about your own classroom experiences.QMOAD. UNTIL 06.06 MONDAY DILLON MARSH Marsh uses photography and image manipulation to depict the exploitation of mineral resources at various mines in South Africa.QGallery MOMO. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

02.06 THURSDAY – 25.06 SATURDAY HANNELIE COETZEE Coetzee uses a variety of mediums including photography, sculpture, mosaic and large-scale site-specific installations in her work, which is particularly influenced by notions of heritage, history and the natural environment. QLizamore & Associates.

13.07 WEDNESDAY – 17.09 SATURDAY HENRI MATISSE: RHYTHM AND MEANING French artist Henri Matisse is a global reference for Modernist art, and this is a much-anticipated first exhibition of his work in South Africa. The focus is on 20 prints from his book Jazz, but art lovers will also be able to experience a feast of other original works.QStandard Bank Gallery.

UNTIL 19.06 SUNDAY BLACK MODERNISMS (1940–1990) This retrospective of modernist art in South Africa looks at the relationships between modernism and traditional African art to show how artists use abstract narratives to provide political commentary.QWits Art Museum.

14.07 THURSDAY – 21.08 SUNDAY BLESSING NGOBENI Reality and fiction collide in full colour in South African artist Blessing Ngobeni’s striking surreal paintings which explore ‘a mindset of a society influenced by power and its impact on individuals’.QCirca Gallery.

UNTIL 25.06 SATURDAY KEMANG WA LEHULERE Standard Bank Young Artist of the Year award winner in 2015, wa Lehulere’s challenging conceptual artworks are influenced by themes of boundaries, segregation, discrimination, history and life and death.QStandard Bank Gallery.

21.07 THURSDAY – 26.08 FRIDAY THE QUIET VIOLENCE OF DREAMS Moshekwa Langa and Joost Bosland’s exhibition explores the influence on South African artists of K. Sello Duiker’s eponymous novel – about a student who endures a life of drugs, gay prostitution and mental illness.QStevenson Gallery.

02.06 THURSDAY – 06.07 WEDNESDAY NEW REVOLUTIONS: GOODMAN GALLERY AT 50 Goodman Gallery celebrates its 50th anniversary with a major exhibition featuring works by a range of prominent international and African artists, as well as a programme of installations, performances and film screenings.QGoodman Gallery. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

04.08 THURSDAY – 04.09 SUNDAY THINK GLOBAL, BUILD SOCIAL! This exhibition showcases contemporary alternative approaches to architecture which focus on socially responsible practices and low-cost solutions that can improve the lives of those in less privileged parts of the world.QMOAD. May – August 2016

9

What’s On 01.06 WEDNESDAY – 19.06 SUNDAY FOREVER JACKSON A tribute to the late, great King of Pop. Robin Parsons stars as Michael Jackson in this musical tribute filled with all the bravado, unforgettable choreography and timeless pop classics that made Jackson such an icon.QJoburg Theatre.

Tickets R120–R325.

Slava’s Snow Show, Teatro at Montecasino

A. Lopez

THEATRE & DANCE UNTIL 07.08 SUNDAY JOSEPH AND THE AMAZING TECHNICOLOUR DREAMCOAT An all-South African cast star in this much-loved Andrew Lloyd Webber stage musical, based on the biblical story of Joseph, the Egyptian pharaoh and a coat of many colours.

QPieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino. Tickets from R100.

03.05 TUESDAY – 22.05 SUNDAY THE YEAR OF THE BICYCLE Joanna Evans’ award-winning play is a witty and poignant examination of childhood, memory and South Africa’s born-free generation. Two estranged childhood friends from very different backgrounds revisit the innocent early days of their young friendship in 1997.QMarket Theatre.

Tickets from R90.

25.05 WEDNESDAY – 29.05 SUNDAY UNFAIR LADY From the writer of quirky and inventive hit productions such as The Epicene Butcher and El Blanco comes this hilarious and sometimes scathing attack on the women’s magazine industry with all it’s fallacies, inconsistencies and general nonsense, told in 12 short stories.QPOP Art Theatre. Tickets R100–R120.

08.06 WEDNESDAY – 03.07 SUNDAY SUDDENLY NAMHLANJE Paul Slabolepszy’s new play set in contemporary South Africa poses the question of whether the wounds of the past can ever really be healed. Born in Soweto and having spent the bulk of her childhood in exile, 40-year-old Namhla is still striving for a sense of belonging, 20 long years after returning home.QMarket Theatre. Tickets from R90.

09.06 SATURDAY – 12.06 TUESDAY FATHER FATHER FATHER! Three sisters remain confined to their room, shunning the evils of the outside world at the behest of their father in this darkly comedic physical theatre piece with menacing and sinister undertones.QPOP Art Theatre. Tickets R100–R120.

10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

28.06 TUESDAY – 10.07 SUNDAY SHAOLIN Chinese Shaolin monks perform incredible and seemingly superhuman feats, in this dramatic kung fu show which promises to be a dazzling display of martial arts skills involving traditional weaponry and lots of high-flying stunts.

QTeatro at Montecasino. Tickets from R450.

15.07 FRIDAY – 24.07 SUNDAY ROMEO & JULIET Joburg Ballet, South Africa’s leading professional ballet company, presents a classical staging of Shakespeare’s tragic romantic tale of two star-crossed lovers.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R80–R450.

20.07 WEDNESDAY – 07.08 SUNDAY COLD CASE: REVISITING DULCIE SEPTEMBER Biopic of the courageous anti-apartheid activist and teacher Dulcie September, who was assassinated in Paris in 1988 aged 52. Born and educated on the Cape Flats, September spent much of her later life in exile in Europe as an ANC leader.QMarket Theatre. Tickets from R90.

26.07 TUESDAY – 14.08 SUNDAY SLAVA’S SNOW SHOW For over 20 years this magical stage show, led by the world’s most famous clown Slava Polunin, has charmed and delighted audiences young and old in more than 120 cities. Music, mime, comedy, balloons, bubble showers and an epic snowstorm finale combine to create an unforgettable, interactive and enchanting experience.QTeatro at Montecasino. Tickets from R175.

EDITOR’S PICK 27.07 WEDNESDAY – 21.08 SUNDAY THE DYING SCREAMS OF THE MOON Award-winning local author Zakes Mda’s intimate drama tackles the difficult issue of land and identity in modern South Africa. Two women, one a former exile and freedom fighter and the other an Afrikaner veteran of the SADF (the apartheid-era army), discover that despite their differences, they share the same scars of war. Mda is a novelist, poet and playwright whose work has been globally recognised and translated into 21 languages.QMarket Theatre. Tickets from R90.

EVENT TICKETS Computicket, online.computicket.com Webtickets, www.webtickets.co.za TicketPro www.ticketpros.co.za johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On FAMILY FUN There is no shortage of activities for kids of all ages in the city: from ziplining to exploring the wonders of science, it’s all here. For more recommendations on where to go and what to do with the family, see p. 46.

Body Worlds Vital, Sci-Bono Discovery Centre

COMEDY South Africans find humour in the most frustrating moments, and Joburg has its fair share of great comedians. There are two dedicated comedy clubs: Parker’s Comedy and Jive in Montecasino (tel. +27 11 511 0082, www.parkerscomedy. com, open Wed-Sat from 20:00) and Goliath Comedy Club in Melrose Arch (Roast Café, 10A The High St, Melrose Arch, www.facebook.com/roastcafemelrose, open Thu, Fri, Sat). If you like stand-up, also look out for The Box comedy night at POPArt Theatre in Maboneng (Sundays at 19:30).

VENUE ADDRESS BOOK EMPERORS PALACE 64 Jones Rd, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 928 1000, www.emperorspalace.co.za JOBURG THEATRE C-2, 163 Civic Blvd, Braamfontein, tel. 0861 670 670, www.joburgtheatre.com GOLD REEF CITY Cnr Northern Pkwy and Data Cres., Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 5000, www.goldreefcity.co.za MARKET THEATRE B-4, Cnr Lilian Ngoyi and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, markettheatre.co.za. Secure parking at Newtown Junction MONTECASINO Cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365, www.montecasino.co.za NATIONAL CHILDREN’S THEATRE 3 Junction Ave, Parktown, tel.+27 11 484 1584, www.nationalchildrenstheatre.org.za NIROX SCULPTURE PARK 24 Kromdraai Rd, Krugersdorp, www.acousticsnow.org POPART THEATRE G-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 83 245 1040, www.popartcentre.co.za SANDTON CONVENTION CENTRE 161 Maude St, Sandton, +27 11 779 0000, www.tsogosun.com/ sandton-convention-centre TICKETPRO DOME Cnr Northumberland Rd and Olievenhout Ave, North Riding, tel. +27 11 794 5800, www.ticketprodome.co.za WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL GARDENS Malcolm Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, www.sanbi.org 12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

UNTIL 19.06 SUNDAY BODY WORLDS VITAL Part two of the trailblazing Body Worlds exhibition, seen by more than 40 million people globally, features 180 plastinated bodies, transparent organs and individual body slices, giving viewers an intimate and detailed look at the marvellous complexities of the human anatomy.QSci-Bono Discovery Centre, cnr Miriam Makeba and Helen Joseph Sts, Newtown, bodyworldsvital.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:30. Tickets weekdays R120, weekends, public and school holidays R160, kids aged 6–17 R100, kids under 5 free.

01.06 WEDNESDAY – 31.07 SUNDAY GATEWAY TO SPACE: THE EXHIBITION Created with the help of Nasa and the US Space & Rocket Centre this globe-travelleing exhibition includes 60 historic and contemporary space artefacts, including a 15m section of the MIR space station, the original Sputnik 1 satellite and a copy of the lunar rover as well as interactive elements like flight simulators and zero gravity trainers (entrance for these costs extra).QSandton Convention Centre, gatewaytospace.co.za. Tickets R120–R180, family tickets R520.

07.06 TUESDAY – 17.07 SUNDAY GEORGE’S MARVELLOUS MEDICINE A special children’s production of Roald Dahl’s hilarious and mischievous story of George and the marvellous medicine he concocts to cure his cranky grandmother.QNational Children’s Theatre.

24.06 FRIDAY – 03.07 SUNDAY DISNEY ON ICE Classic and contemporary Disney characters take to the ice for the Worlds of Enchantment show including Woody, Buzz and co from Toy Story, the Little Mermaid and Else, Anna and their pals Olaff and Kristoff from Frozen.QTicketPro Dome. Tickets R175–R475.

24.06 FRIDAY – 17.07 SUNDAY SHREK THE MUSICAL Shrektacular family fun. This enchanting musical is based on the hit DreamWorks animated film.QLyric Theatre at Gold Reef City. Tickets R290.

07.07 THURSDAY – 12.07 TUESDAY DORA’S PIRATE ADVENTURE Nickelodeon’s Dora the Explorer and friends embark on an exciting trip to Treasure Island in search of the ultimate pirate party in this interactive stage show ideal for younger kids.QTheatre of Marcellus at Emperors Palace. Tickets R250–R325. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

- PRESENTS THE -

T U R B I N E A R T FA I R I S T H E P L AT F O R M F O R G A L L E R I E S , C U R ATO R S A N D OT H E R A R T O R G A N I S AT I O N S TO P R O M OT E E M E R G I N G A N D E STA B L I S H E D TA L E N T S I N A N A C C E S S I B L E A N D E N J O YA B L E W AY.

14 - 17 JULY 2016 WWW.TURBINEARTFAIR.CO.ZA |

#TAF16

CINEMA THE BIOSCOPE For indie, arthouse and foreign language films the independent cinema The Bioscope in Maboneng leads the pack and is also the best place to catch new documentaries and African films. Regular events include Le Movie Club French film night on the last Thursday of every month and Classic Movie screenings on Fridays and Sundays. Adjoining the cinema is the Chalkboard Café which serves a range of craft beers and possibly the best pizzas in downtown Joburg (take these into the cinema with you). The Bioscope also hosts film festivals, open-air cinema events and movies and music evenings.

QG-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 039 7306, www.thebioscope.co.za. Book tickets to Encounters Festival 2016, from 01.06-12.06, an annual documentary film festival showcasing dozens of new local and international films covering a wide range of topics.Qwww.encounters.co.za.

06.05 SATURDAY – 15.05 SUNDAY EUROPEAN FILM FESTIVAL 2016 This year’s festival brings together 11 films from 11 European countries. Feature film highlights include Labyrinth of Lies, based on a chilling true story of Holocaust denial in post-war West Germany, and the documentaries Fire at Sea, a timely look at the refugee crisis on the Italian island of Lampedusa, and this year’s Oscar winner Amy.QCinema Nouveau, Rosebank, www.eurofilmfest.co.za. Tickets R55.

FOOTBALL The PSL is South Africa’s top football league. Soweto teams Kaizer Chiefs and Orlando Pirates and Tshwane’s Mamelodi Sundowns have long dominated the league. Joburg’s team is Bidvest Wits, nicknamed ‘the clever boys’ and based at Wits University.

4.05, 19:30 Kaizer Chiefs vs Bloem Celtic, FNB Stadium (Nasrec Rd, Nasrec, www.kaizerchiefs.com) 7.05, 20:15 Orlando Pirates vs Maritzburg Utd, Orlando Stadium (Cnr Martha Louw and Mooki Sts, Orlando, Soweto, www.orlandopiratesfc.com) 21.05, 15:00 Kaizer Chiefs vs Chippa United, FNB Stadium 21.05, 15:00 Orlando Pirates vs SuperSport United, Orlando Stadium 14 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

RUGBY Rugby is one of the country’s most popular sports and the trials and tribulations of the national team, the Springboks, are followed by most. In June Ireland plays a threetest tour against the Springboks in Joburg, Port Elizabeth and Cape Town. Joburg’s local rugby team, the Emirates Lions, play at Emirates Airlines Park (still popularly known by its previous moniker Ellis Park). The semi-finals and final of the annual Vodacom SuperRugby XV cup are held between 22.07 and 06.08. Rugby fans should book a visit to the Ellis Park Rugby Museum and a behind-thescenes tour of Emirates Airlines Park. See p. 45 for more details. For the first time, Rugby Sevens is now part of the Olympic Games and South Africa is in with an excellent chance to win.

14.05, 19:15 21.05, 15:00 18.06, 17:00 02.07, 17:10 08.07, 19:00

Lions vs Blues, Emirates Airlines Park Lions vs Jaguares, Emirates Airlines Park SA vs Ireland, Emirates Airlines Park Lions vs Sharks, Emirates Airlines Park Lions vs Kings, Emirates Airlines Park

RUNNING 14.05 SATURDAY NEON RUN A neon-lit 5km night run and music festival. The festival takes places from 14:00–23:00 and the run leaves at 18:00.

Bands performing include house music favourites Goodluck and Kyle Watson.QBidvest Wanderers Stadium, 35 Corlett Dr, Illovo. Entrance R265, R300 at the door (subject to availability), www.neonrun.co.za.

28.05 SATURDAY HOLLARD JURA The Jozi Urban Run Adventure (JURA) is an urban trail run and obstacle course through Joburg’s biggest parks over three distances; 6km, 12km and 18km.QRace starts at Marks Park, Emmarentia at 07:00. Entrance R249–R330.

Register to enter online at www.joziadventure.co.za.

09.08 TUESDAY TOTAL SPORTS WOMEN’S RACE Choose from a 5km or 10km run or walk in honour of the Women’s Day public holiday and the Pink Drive against breast cancer.QRace starts at 08:00 at Mary Fitzgerald Sq, Newtown, City Centre. Entrance R60-R120. Register to enter at www.totalsportswomensrace.com. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

SHOP FOR THE MOST EXCITING AFRICAN FASHION, DESIGN AND LIFESTYLE BRANDS AT WORK SHOP NEW TOWN. OVER 100 DESIGNERS HOUSED IN ONE HISTORIC BUILDING, including

Aya Goods / Black Coffee / Crystal Birch / Kisua / Gold Street LA Hey Gorgeous / Kat van Duinen / Maria McCloy / MaXhosa Pichulik / Unknown Union / Wolf & Maiden NEWTOWN JUNCTION

Lucy Mulima dressed in Aya Goods

100 Carr Street Newtown Johannesburg

O P E N I N G

H O U R S

MONDAY to FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY

10am - 6pm 10am - 7pm 10am - 3pm

Arriving & Getting Around

Sandton sunset Anton Bosman

ARRIVING Joburg is served by two airports: the major transport hub, O.R. Tambo International Airport, 30km east of Sandton, and the smaller Lanseria Airport, 30km north-west of Sandton. Most international flights pass through O.R. Tambo, while Lanseria is increasingly used by budget airlines serving destinations both in South Africa and in other African countries. The busiest times are in the evening and morning when most transcontinental flights arrive and depart. Unlike on international flights, domestic flights do not impose the same restrictions on carrying liquids so you won’t have to leave your wine or sunscreen at the airport.

O.R. TAMBO AIRPORT Southern Africa’s biggest airport is spacious and modern, and has loads of nice shops. The domestic terminal has a wide range of stores, including a useful supermarket. The building is easy to navigate. Passengers are served by two terminals: A and B. The check-in for all domestic and South African Airways (SAA) flights is in Terminal B, and for other international flights in Terminal A. For security purposes have your bags safely locked or wrapped, and only hand over your luggage to staff at the check-in counter. For realtime flight information, text your flight number to 35007. If you have some time on your hands, head for the viewing deck to see a small but worthwhile exhibition on the life of Oliver Reginald Tambo, a national hero.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86 727 7888 (flight information), www.acsa.co.za.

Getting to/from O.R. Tambo Airport Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For

PARK STATION Park Station in the City Centre is Joburg’s main transport hub. Built in the 1930s, today it is a mostly modern edifice and few remnants of its early architecture remain. Minibus taxis, local rail and the Gautrain ferry commuters through here every day, while long-distance bus and train companies also operate from the station. An estimated one million people use the station every weekday, making it the busiest transport hub in southern Africa.

16 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton.

A ticket from Sandton to O.R. Tambo Airport costs R142. After hours you will need to use a taxi or book a shuttle bus.

Ortiata Taxis (tel. +27 86 124 3243, www.jiata.co.za) start from R15.50 per kilometre. Follow the signs in the airport to the taxi booking office.

LANSERIA AIRPORT Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for many charter flights to private game reserves, and used by local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, www.lanseria.co.za.

Getting to/from Lanseria Airport Lanseria is served by taxis (Lanseria Taxis, tel. +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066 6435, www.lanseriataxis.com) and private shuttles.

BETWEEN AIRPORTS The fastest way to travel between Lanseria and O.R. Tambo international airports is to use a shuttle service to the Sandton Gautrain station, and then the Gautrain to O.R. Tambo airport. LIAshuttle offers transfers between Lanseria airport and the Sandton Gautrain station, as well as other destinations (tel. +27 060 440 0372, www.liashuttle. com) or book with EZ Shuttle (tel. 086 139 7488, ezshuttle. co.za). Taxi services are also available.

AIRPORT PARKING For discount airport valet parking off-site there is Mr Parking (tel. +27 72 903 8212, www.mrparking.co.za).

LOCAL AIRLINES Joburg is served by the national carrier South African Airways (SAA) and a number of budget domestic airlines.

SAAQTel. 086 135 8722 or +27 11 978 1000, www.flysaa. com. British AirwaysQTel. +27 11 441 8600, www. britishairways.com. Fastjet (budget)QTel. +27 11 289 8090, www.fastjet.com. Kulula Air (budget)QTel. 086 158 5852 or +27 11 921 0570, www.kulula.com. Mango (budget) QTel. 086 100 1234 or +27 11 086 6100, www.flymango. com. Safair (budget)QTel. +27 11 928 0000, www.flysafair. co.za. Fly Africa (budget)QTel. +27 11 289 8101, flyafrica. com. Travelstart is a helpful online travel agency offering price comparison on flight bookings for all major airlines and budget carriers with destinations in South Africa.Qwww. travelstart.co.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around

Braamfontein to City Centre

City Centre

MINIBUS TAXI HAND SIGNALS

Dunkeld to Rosebank, City Centre to Rivonia, Illovo to Rosebank Images by Susan Woolf

PUBLIC TRANSPORT GAUTRAIN Fast, clean and reliable, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘How-train’) rapid rail service links Joburg, Pretoria and O.R. Tambo Airport via two lines. The main line starts at Joburg’s Park Station and stops at Rosebank, Sandton, Marlboro, Midrand, Centurion, central Pretoria and Hatfield. The second line travels from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport via Marlboro and Rhodesfield. To use the service you need a Gautrain Gold Card, which you can buy and add money to at all Gautrain stations. Each Gautrain station is served by a network of Gautrain buses that link commuters with nearby suburbs. Gautrain buses are also paid for using the Gold Card, and route maps can be viewed at each station. Note that Gautrain buses do not run at weekends (except for the Montecasino-Sandton shuttle). You need a minimum of R20 loaded on your Gold Card to access Gautrain trains and buses. The last train to O.R. Tambo leaves Sandton at 21:04, the first at 04:50. The first trains leave Hatfield and Park Station at 05:30, the last at 20:30.QGautrain hotline tel. 0800 428 872 46, www. gautrain.co.za.

METROBUS The budget workhorse of the city’s public transport system, Metrobus is suited to more adventurous (and patient) travellers looking to cross the city. Most buses terminate at Gandhi Square in the City Centre (D-5, Main St, cnr Rissik St), where there is an information office (in the Gandhi Mall) with timetables and route information (note that the buses are not known for arriving on schedule). The majority of buses depart in the early-morning (06:00–09:30) and lateafternoon (16:00–17:30) rush hours. Useful routes include the #05C/D from Gandhi Square to Rosebank and Sandton City.

MINIBUS TAXIS Minibus taxis follow set routes but are referred to as ‘taxis’.

The erratic and aggressive driving of some drivers and the sometimes poor condition of their vehicles have given the service a bad reputation. However, for many daily commuters they are a highly efficient transport service as they cover large swathes of the city. They stop abruptly, do not have routes displayed, and can only be hailed by making the appropriate hand signal (see graphic above). The main taxi ranks are at Park Station and Metro Mall in Newtown.

Be vigilant at these busy ranks and avoid using them at facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Rea Vaya bus stop

REA VAYA The Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport system (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and special enclosed bus stops with raised platforms and security staff. Currently the Rea Vaya runs between the City Centre and surrounds (including the main university campuses) to destinations in Soweto. To use the bus, register for a smart card at Park Station, Carlton Centre or UJ Kingsway. Note that you will need to show your passport or some other form of picture ID to register. Single journey tickets are also available. Buses arrive every 10–20 minutes and most buses run between 05:30 and 18:30 (on some routes until 20:30). See www.reavaya.org.za.

USEFUL ROUTES C-3 The circular City Centre C-3 route stops at most major tourist sights as well as Park Station. Stops include Constitution Hill, Johannesburg Art Gallery, the Fashion District, the Carlton Centre (visit the 50th-floor viewing deck for amazing city views), Library Gardens, Chancellor House, Newtown Junction (Mary Fitzgerald Square) and Wits Art Museum in Braamfontein.

C-1 For Maboneng catch the C-1 at Chancellor House, Library Gardens or Carlton Centre and get off at the Jeppe SAPS stop (cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd and Betty St). The centre of Maboneng is a two-minute-walk via Betty Street.

C-4 Leaves from Park Station. For 44 Stanley get out at Milpark and for Melville at Main Rd and 1st Ave (Melville’s main hub, 7th Street, is a 10-minute walk via 1st Ave).

T-2 and F-4 For Vilakazi Street in Soweto take the T-2 from Park Station and change to the F-4 bus at the Boomtown Station in Soweto. night or alone. After hailing a ‘taxi’, find a seat and hand the exact fare to the driver (usually R10–R15 for short journeys). At main stops the driver may wait until the vehicle fills with commuters. You need to call out in advance when you want to get off – giving a landmark is usually easiest.

Although travelling by minibus taxi can be intimidating, adventurous travellers will find they offer much insight into everyday South African life.

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Arriving & Getting Around

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TAXIS AND TRANSFERS Taxis can be expensive but are essential if you plan a wild night out. There are very few places where you can hail a taxi in the street. It is best to call and book in advance.

Some taxis do not use meters, so arrange a price upfront.

From Sandton City to the suburbs of Parkhurst or Greenside, expect to pay around R150. Smartphone users should download the Uber app and first-timers can use our Uber discount code on this page. In Melville and Sandton you’ll also find tuk-tuks, useful for making small journeys through the suburbs.

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DRIVING AND CAR RENTAL The easiest way to explore Joburg is by car. Shop around for a rental car, book in advance and it won’t break the bank.

Plan your route before you set off, and store valuable items out of sight. South Africans drive on the left-hand side of the road and pass on the right. The maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left-hand lane because they make unannounced and frequent stops. Traffic lights often don’t work; when this happens, treat the crossing as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is popular, especially in the inner city, and it is not uncommon to see someone trying to walk across a freeway. Throughout 2016 the M1 highway is undergoing major repairs between the City Centre and Killarney (Oxford Rd exit) and serious delays are to be expected, particularly between Braamfontein and the M2. There are numerous car rental companies based at both airports, and most also have drop-off points in Rosebank or Sandton. Note that the city continues to rename major thoroughfares, which are not always updated on GPS – see p. 64 for our city centre map.

AVIS Branches at O.R. Tambo International Airport (tel. +27 11 573 5000), Lanseria Airport (tel. +27 11 659 1415), Hyatt Regency Hotel in Rosebank (tel. +27 11 442 7012) and opposite the Sandton Gautrain station on Rivonia Rd (tel. +27 11 666 1700), www.avis.co.za. EUROPCAR Branches at O.R. Tambo International Airport (tel. +27 11 390 3909), Lanseria Airport (tel. +27 11 548 9000), Radisson Blu Gautrain Sandton Hotel (tel. +27 11 666 8340) and now at 117 Melle St, Braamfontein (tel. +27 11 403 2679), www.europcar. co.za. RENT-A-WRECK Specialises in cheaper car rentals, as long as you don‘t mind what the car looks like (F/G-3, 13 Siemert Rd, cnr President St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 5150, www.rentawreck.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–11:00. Closed Sun).

18 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

E-TUK-TUK Based in Melville and serving Braamfontein, Fordsburg, the Parks and Rosebank. All trips R50. Must be booked in advance by phone.QTel. +27 82 695 0211 or +27 82 515 6593, www.e-tuktuk.co.za. SHESHA TUKS Based outside the Sandton City mall on West Street, Shesha Tuks operates within a 5km radius. Rates start at R25 for a 3km journey, although it is best to agree a price beforehand.QTel. 086 174 3742, www.sheshatuks.co.za.

OEMBOTU TRAVEL For transfers, tours and chauffeur services, contact The Joburg Squirrel.QTel. +27 73 083 6416, www.oembotutravel.co.za. ORANGE CABSQTel. 086 170 0222, www.orangecab.co.za. ZEBRA CABS The largest taxi company in the city. Also has a service for women who require female drivers.QTel. +27 86 110 5105, www.zebracabs.co.za.

CYCLING AND WALKING Joburg has a large and enthusiastic cycling community and the city is working to develop new bike lanes, already usable in central Sandton, Braamfontein, Auckland Park and Orlando West in Soweto. Plans are in place to extend these to Park Station, Ellis Park and Alexandra. For the most upto-date information on cycle routes, go to www.juca.org. za. Walking in the northern suburbs such as Sandton is not particularly interesting, but City Centre and Braamfontein are easily navigated on foot and worth exploring for public art and graffiti. Some of Joburg’s prettier neighbourhoods, such as Melville or Parkhurst, are also great to explore at a slower pace. Choose to walk during the day only and don’t flash your valuables. Don’t walk through the central Joburg areas of Hillbrow, Berea, Joubert Park and Yeoville without a local guide, be careful crossing the rail tracks from City Centre to Braamfontein, and do not walk this way after dark.

Watch out for oblivious or aggressive drivers, potholes and uncovered manholes whether on foot or bike.

NAVIGATING THE CITY See pp. 63-66 for our city maps. Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered singlestreet address. Always check whether numbered names, such as First or Second, are streets or avenues. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

4-star luxury guest house.

Joburg’s no. 1 on TripAdvisor.

Close to Sandton & Rosebank.

www.lizatlancaster.co.za +27 83 229 4223

JOHANNESBURG’S BEST GUESTHOUSES The Hyatt Regency, Rosebank

LUXURY HOTELS There’s no shortage of luxury accommodation options in Joburg, and each offers something distinctive. This city was built for mining gold and many established luxury hotels focus on business travellers. The elegant Hyatt Regency is favoured by the corporate who’s who for high-powered meetings in the lobby lounge, plus you’ll be just steps away from the buzzing Rosebank shopping and entertainment complex and the Gautrain station. The hotel’s OneNineOne restaurant (see p. 23) opens onto a green and shaded courtyard perfect for sipping cocktails or enjoying a delicious meal far from the madding crowd (191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, www.johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. 224 rooms).

It’s not unusual to spot burly men accompanying a king or global CEO in the stately foyer of the Intercontinental JHB Sandton Towers (cnr 5th and Maude Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5624, www.intercontinental.com/johannesburg. 231 rooms), while Sandton’s grande dame, the newly refurbished Sandton Sun, with its popular San Deck for enjoying the cocktail hour, is a Champagne bar away from Sandton City Diamond Walk, home to the world’s swankiest fashion stores awaiting your credit card or briefcase of cash (cnr Fifth and Alice Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5000, www.tsogosunhotels. 326 rooms). If pure leisure is what you seek, then Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff is the playground of both the visiting luxury set and locals from the affluent surrounding suburbs. The drop-deadgorgeous views of this most-treed city make it a sundowners destination. You’ll also want to sample the fine-dining menu at View, head to the spa for a blissful break, or enjoy a themed afternoon tea (67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6000, www.fourseasons.com/johannesburg.

117 rooms). At The Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa, each room is fit for royalty. Housed on the property that was once the home of business magnate Douw Steyn (who is building Steyn City, a new city of his own in the north), it was here that former President Nelson Mandela retreated to complete his autobiography, Long Walk To Freedom. The Eighteen05 whisky bar is a treat for aficionados (see p. 40) or book a wine or tea pairing with many delicate courses at Luke Dale-Roberts x Saxon (see p. 22), restaurant of the multi-award-winning chef (36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. + 27 11 292 6000, www.saxon.co.za. 53 rooms). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

ARE JUST A CLICK AWAY

www.johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za A range of affordable accommodation options centrally located in and around the suburbs of Rosebank.

For mixing business and pleasure there’s the flamboyant African Pride Melrose Arch with its excellent breakfast menu, Davidoff Cool Water-scented lobby, and table set for lunch in the swimming pool (1 Melrose Square, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 214 6666, www.africanpridehotels. com. 118 rooms), and the intimate and chic 54 On Bath hotel that has a boutique-hotel feel and a Champagne bar. The photographs that decorate the walls were all shot within a few kilometres of the hotel’s location and show the best of modern Joburg (54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8500, www.tsogosunhotels.com/54-on-bath. 75 rooms). The olde-world opulent Palazzo Montecasino, a regular on the list of World Luxury Hotel award winners, is where you might get to rub shoulders with international celebrities. Within walking distance of the casino and multiple attractions such as a comedy club, cinema and theatre, Palazzo also has exquisite gardens for escaping it all, plus a Clefs d’Or concierge to ensure a most memorable trip (Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 3000, www. tsogosunhotels.com/The-Palazzo. 246 rooms).

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Where to stay a chic modern hideaway set amid lush greenery, belying its close proximity to buzzing shopping and entertainment hub Melrose Arch (61 North St, Melrose, tel. +27 11 537 9797, www.thepeech.co.za. 16 rooms). The atmospheric Satyagraha House (see p. 36) has a museum dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi, who lived here in 1908– 09, and is a tasteful and precious bubble of tranquillity (15 Pine Road, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, www.satyagrahahouse.com. 7 rooms).

MID-RANGE HOTELS Hands On Retreat, a member of Johannesburg Guesthouses

GUEST HOUSES AND B&BS For garden retreats in the city’s prettiest suburbs, bed and breakfast or self-catering suites, privacy and personalised service, Johannesburg Guesthouses offers an excellent range of affordable accommodation options in the Rosebank area. See their booking website www.johannesburgguesthouses.co.za. Liz Delmont, the owner of awardwinning member guest house Liz at Lancaster, is an art historian turned entrepreneur and a Joburg maven and blogger with plenty of suggestions on how to enjoy the city. She has thought of everything that will make your stay as comfortable as possible (79 Lancaster Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 8083, www.lizatlancaster. co.za. 7 rooms).

In Melville traditional Afrikaans farmhouse Agterplaas ticks ’authentic South African‘ boxes (66 6th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8452, www.agterplaas.co.za.

14 rooms). Nearby is the tasteful Lucky Bean Guesthouse, in a quiet tree-lined street, sister to the eponymous restaurant and live-music venue on the main strip (129 1st Ave, Melville, tel. +27 82 902 4524, www. luckybeanguesthouse.co.za. 9 rooms). For contemporary cool, seek out Afro-Asian Motel MiPiChi (35 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8844, www.motelmipichi. co.za. 6 rooms).

BOUTIQUE HOTELS The Residence caters to Champagne tastes. Choose between an individually designed suite with a private pool or one with an outdoor bath in addition to the indoor one (17 4th Ave, Houghton Estate, tel. +27 11 853 2480, theresidence.co.za. 12 suites). Also in Houghton, Ten Second Ave conjures the feel of a stately country home with an emphasis on gracious living. Nestled into one of Joburg’s older suburbs, the magnificent gardens provide a perfect urban refuge (10 2nd Ave, Houghton Estate, tel. +27 11 853 2400, houghtonestate.com. 15 rooms).

Choose from an array of individually decorated suites at Ten Bompas and try its restaurant, Winehouse, for superb bistro dining (10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2442, www.tenbompas.com. 10 suites). The Peech is 20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

For a business hotel with a resort feel, the Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton is the suburb’s oldest hotel, a popular conference venue with lush gardens and two swimming pools where European flight crews lap up the sunshine.

Its relaxed Lord’s Cigar Bar is popular for a late-night tipple (20 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 322 5000, www. proteahotels.com/balalaika. 330 rooms). At Protea Hotel Fire & Ice! Melrose Arch you’ll find a fresh and fun homage to Hollywood glamour and a bar that serves unforgettable milkshakes (22 Whitely St, Melrose Arch, +27 11 218 4000, www.proteahotels.com/melrose. 197 rooms).

Protea Hotel Parktonian All Suite with its 300 identical one-bedroom suites is a conference destination in the city with a 360-degree skyline view from the pool deck (C-2, 120 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 5740, www.proteahotels.com/parktonian. 300 suites). For golfing fans The Fairway Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort is 11km from Sandton Central with an impressive adjoining 18-hole golf course (Setperk St, Randpark, Randburg, tel. +27 11 478 8000, www.thefairway.co.za). For wild encounters and the great outdoors, Thaba Eco Hotel, set in a nature reserve, offers game walks and drives (Impala Rd, Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, tel. +27 11 959 0777, www.thabahotel.co.za. 52 rooms), while further afield Maropeng Hotel is a perfect base for exploring the Cradle of Humankind (see p. 46, R400 off R563 to Hekpoort, tel. +27 14 577 9000, www.maropeng.co.za).

BACKPACKER HOSTELS For budget stays with excellent hosts in hip surroundings, there is Curiocity Backpackers in Maboneng (see p. 21) or Soweto’s Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers. This celebrated backpackers has it all: comfy dorms, single or double rooms, or just pitch your tent in the garden. There is a welcoming courtyard with a fabulous beach-style bar – you can almost smell the rum and coconut oil – and an open-air restaurant in the park. The park was once a dump site that owner Lebo Malepa and his team long ago transformed into a safe and green haven for backpackers and inhabitants of the surrounding community. Lebo’s bicycle or tuk-tuk tours of Soweto are a must-do activity in this vibrant township (10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobackpackers.com. 22 beds). For more on what to see, where to shop and recommended restaurants in Soweto, see p.

48–50. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

City Lodge Hotel, Newtown

INNER-CITY STAYOVER With neighbourhoods like Braamfontein and Maboneng to explore, nightlife, great weekend markets, coffee shops, the city’s mining past, art galleries and public art it’s worth staying overnight in the city.

Enjoy Braamfontein’s weekend party atmosphere and the hipster capital’s many attractions at one of these stylish budget hotels. Hotel Lamunu and The Bannister Hotel are both ideally located for exploring the popular Saturday Neighbourgoods Market, art galleries, bars and restaurants. The vibrant Hotel Lamunu, with its distinctive orange facade, is favoured by the clever set visiting the nearby universities for its brilliant location from which to launch your city adventures. The hotel’s entrance leads out onto The Grove on Melle street, a lively public piazza with plenty of restaurants and coffee shops within easy walking distance (C-2, 90 De Korte St, tel. +27 11 242 8600, www.lamunu.com. 60 rooms). A block away The Bannister Hotel is a hipster delight with a buzzing bar filled with cool kids. A luxury budget hotel The Bannister has en suite rooms with plenty of TV channels, wi-fi, and rain showerheads in the bathrooms (C-2/3, 9 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www. bannisterhotel.co.za. 32 rooms).

Across the Nelson Mandela Bridge is the city’s newest hotel, City Lodge Hotel Newtown, located next to local design emporium Work Shop New Town (see p. 54) and the Market Theatre (see p. 10). This seven-storey threestar hotel has a swimming pool and bistro-style lounge and coffee shop. The hotel’s showstopper is an immense plaster mural created by Carl Fouché Maritz that depicts a panorama of the Joburg city centre in glorious shades of gold (B-4, cnr Carr and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 10 065 0700, www.clhg.com. 148 rooms).

If it’s happening in Maboneng – and it always is – Curiocity Backpackers is a perfect location from which to experience the ‘johustle’. At the helm is the charming Bheki Dube, photographer and inner-city aficionado and also official Maboneng Minister of Culture, who runs MainStreetWalks tour company (see p. 47). Curiocity hosts live-music events, has a popular bar and braai stand and offers dorms, private rooms and a loft apartment (G-4, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 614 0163, www. curiocitybackpackers. com. 54 beds). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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Where to eat

Tashas Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton Joburg offers everything, from pavement dining to five-star gourmet cuisine. In our listings we have tried to highlight a mix of both fine-dining experiences and off-the-beaten track adventures. Generally Thursday to Saturday nights require bookings, and some restaurants close on Mondays.

COMING SOON MARBLE Much-awarded chef David Higgs, formerly of Five Hundred at The Saxon Hotel, is opening a sizzling, live-fire grill house in ROAM (Rosebank Art Mile). ROAM has plans to breathe new life into a walkable 2km or so gallery strip filled with Joburg’s best collection of contemporary art.

Located between the landmark Circa Gallery and sister Everard Read Gallery, Marble’s other trump card will be a rooftop bar and terrace with spectacular views towards the Magaliesberg mountains.QCnr Keyes and Jan Smuts Aves, Rosebank, www.marble.restaurant.

Expected to open May/June 2016.

LUKE DALE-ROBERTS X SAXON Luke Dale-Roberts of Cape Town’s The Test Kitchen (ranked 28th in the World’s Top 50 Restaurants) opened a pop-up at The Saxon Hotel earlier this year. The space has undergone a total makeover and from May Luke Dale-Roberts x Saxon is a permanent Joburg fixture. Expect an unforgettable tasting menu and dining experience. Reservations essential.QThe Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, www.saxon.co.za. Open 18:30–24:00 (last reservations 20:30). Closed Sun, Mon. Seven-course tasting menu, R1 330; with tea or wine pairing, R2 100.

22 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

CONTEMPORARY DINING In recent years inventive young chefs and the availability of excellent local produce have combined to put the South African fine-dining scene firmly on the world map. What’s more, South Africa’s weak currency means that international visitors are getting great value on those extravagant gourmet tasting menus offered at the city’s top restaurants.

Joburg has a sizeable crop of award-winning chefs and veterans of Michelin star kitchens who have been clocking up the accolades and can be found cooking up a storm at the following destinations.

DW ELEVEN-13 Classic cuisine with a global twist in a sedate but upmarket setting. Chef Marthinus Ferreira occasionally plays with modern molecular techniques, but his strength is classy comfort food and a bistronomy cooking style. Sharing the space is The Grazing Room, a tapas bar. Reservations required.QDunkeld West Shopping Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 341 0663, www.dw11-13. co.za. Open lunch 12:00–14:30 and dinner 18:30–22:00, Sun 12:00–15:00. Closed Mon. RRRR. MOSAIC AT THE ORIENT OUT OF TOWN Much-awarded chef Chantel Dartnall offers both à la carte and tasting menus at this restaurant in an eccentrically decorated luxury boutique hotel 45 minutes’ drive from Joburg. Her style is eclectic and dishes are delicate yet layered and look like masterpieces on a plate.QFrancolin Conservation Area, Crocodile River Valley, Elandsfontein, tel. +27 12 371 2902, www.restaurantmosaic.com.

Open for lunch Wed–Sun 12:30–15:00; dinner Wed, Fri, Sat 19:00–21:00 (Thu for group bookings). Tasting menu R625–R1 185, plus optional wine pairing. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat ONENINEONE With its open kitchen, cool face brick interiors and photographs of Joburg’s spring signature jacaranda blooms, the Hyatt Regency’s restaurant led by celebrity chef Andrew Atkinson and Shaneil Dinna offers contemporary cuisine with stylish flourish. The three course seasonal menu fuses flavours influenced by a variety of cuisine styles, including Asian and Middle Eastern, all with unique South African flair. A private dining room in the wine cellar (close to 170 local and international labels are offered) hosts up to 12 guests. Special events to look out for include the Kitchen Party on June 9, a fabulous casual wine tasting – with the Cape’s Delaire Graff Estate – and food pairing evening, and a promotion of Chinese cuisine in August presided over by a top Hyatt Hotel chef from Asia. On any afternoon the hotel’s garden terrace is an excellent refuge.Q191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. + 27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Open for breakfast 06:30–10:30, Sat 06:30–11:00, lunch and dinner 12:00–22:00. Sun breakfast only. RRR. UBL TASHAS NELSON MANDELA SQUARE NEW ‘African glamour’ inspired the decor at this elegant restaurant and café. Sit in- or outdoors overlooking the square, or a reserve a seat in The Flamingo Room, a private dining area (R50 per person). Order from the extensive Mediterranean-inspired menu (breakfast is a treat here) or the signature menu which includes fabulous cocktails and specialty dishes including a sea bass for two (R360).QNelson Mandela Square, cnr Maude and 5th Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 883 0389. Open 07:00–22:00, Sun and public holidays 07:00–21:30. RR-RRR. BLS VIEW Spectacularly located at Four Seasons The Westcliff Hotel, View is a sleek contemporary setting in which to enjoy a French-accented à la carte or seasonal tasting menu with optional wine pairing. Head chef Dirk Gieselmann brings Michelin-starred experience. View is also an excellent breakfast and high tea venue (see p. 33). Bookings essential.Q67 Jan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 481 6190, viewrestaurant.co.za. Open for breakfast 07:00–11:00 and dinner Wed–Sun 18:00–21:30. RRRR.

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

B Outdoor seating

S Takeaways

W Wi-fi

PRICE KEY R = Less than R70 RR = R71–R110 RRR = R111–R160 RRRR = Take out a loan * Main course average price. No prices for cafés given.

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May – August 2016

23

Where to eat The best Joburg has to offer in one great app

Roving Bantu Kitchen, Brixton

AFRICAN

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24 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

From Cameroonian grilled fish and Soweto-style shisa nyama (see p. 27) to Ethiopian injeera with delicious vegetarian stews, there’s plenty of African food to be found. It’s not a strict definition as there’s a lot of African-influenced food too, from Indian curries to Mozambican-style Portuguese food.

To experience authentic pan-African cuisine, take a walking tour with Dlala Nje or the Roving Bantu (see p. 47).

Joburg’s Ethiopian quarter Little Addis is located around Rahima Moosa and Troye Streets in the city centre. Visit the monthly Market@the Fort (Constitution Hill, last Sat of the month 10:00–18:00) for Zambian and Congolese specialities cooked up by Kitoko Kitchen, who also trades at North West Night Market at 27 Boxes in Melville (see p. 54).

HOUSE OF BAOBAB This colourful halal restaurant decorated with traditional African fabrics serves a menu of mostly West African dishes.

Specialities include Ghanaian mafe, Senegalese chicken yassa and grilled tilapia fish, best enjoyed with a side of fried plantains and some refreshing Bissap Rouge, an hibiscus-infused non-alcoholic drink.QG-4, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts (Main Street Life), Maboneng, tel. +27 11 039 1632.

Open 12:00–22:00. Closed Mon. RR. B LITTLE ADDIS A hole-in-the-wall on Maboneng’s busiest street, try a meat or vegetarian platter served on spongy injeera bread at this Ethiopian restaurant. Dishes are made according to the owner’s family recipes. Buy craft beers next door at Chalkboard Café to enjoy with your meal.QG-4, 280 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 683 8675, www.littleaddis.co.za.

Open 12:30–21:00, Sun 12:30–18:00 (also at Market on Main). Closed Mon. RR. B SAVANNA OUT OF TOWN Tiny no frills café serving the biggest range of authentic African dishes such as mafe, Nigerian egusi soup or grilled tilapia with Congolese pondu sauce. The menu boasts typical dishes from almost every sub-Saharan African country. Fortunately charming owner and chef Felix is always on hand to guide you. Located two blocks from the Pretoria Art Museum.QUnipark, 725 Arcadia St, Arcadia, tel. +27 61 897 1978. Open 08:30–21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–21:00. R. LB johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat ITALIAN BELLAGIO Not an exclusively seafood restaurant, but the flawless fish dishes are the main attraction. Grilled kingklip liberally slathered in lemon butter and herbs, gigantic langoustines and seared tuna steak feature prominently. The pasta menu is the real deal, straight from a Ligurian fishing village. Not the place to be in a hurry, Bellagio is more suited to lazy weekend lunches on the terrace – Mediterranean style.

Q196 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 87 550 3521. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–15:00. RRRR. B DA GRAZIELLA OUT OF TOWN Run by a Sicilian brother and sister team, the service here is welcoming and there’s an excellent range of food choices.

Start with a platter of roasted vegetables that include the Nastrini Piccanti Melanzane (brinjal ribbons with chilli), and move from there to pasta or pizza and excellent veal dishes with hearty sides.Q74 Dunvegan Ave, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 454 6202, www.dagraziella.co.za. Open 12:00–15:30 and 18:00–21:30, Sun 12:00–15:30. RR. GEMELLI CUCINA BAR NEW Joburg’s slickest Italian restaurant is owned by Lesothoborn Alessandro Mosupi Khojane, and inspired by his Italian childhood. The setting is an elegant loft-style space with a marble bar. The atmosphere is vibrant, the crowd cosmopolitan. Expect familiar dishes served with contemporary flair, rich in flavour and Instagram-worthy in appearance. On the cocktail menu try The Mad Italian or Lesotho Lady.QShop 13, Posthouse Link Centre, cnr Main Rd and Posthouse St, Bryanston, tel. +27 10 591 4333, www.gemellirestaurant.co.za. Open 12:00–15:30, 17:30–22:30, Sun 12:00–15:30. Booking essential. RRR. BSLW IL GIARDINO D’EGLI ULIVI An olive tree-filled courtyard is the setting for this casual yet elegant Italian bistro, perfect for family dining or a lazy afternoon. There is also a beautiful loft-like indoor dining area decorated with exquisitely arranged flowers and crystal chandeliers, ideal if the weather takes a turn. The menu is pizzas, pastas and salads, generously served and well presented. Service slows on the busiest days. Live music Fri and Sun.Q44 Stanley, Cnr Stanley Ave and Owl St, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4978, www.ilgiardino.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00, Sun 11.30–17:00. Closed Mon. RRR. BE STELLE Inspired by northern Italian cuisine, chef Alda Porelli and baker Tony Graziero serve traditional favourites and regularly devise new dishes at this friendly restaurant.

Pastas are light and homemade with seasonal accompaniments. For a big gathering opt for the covered patio.Q62 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 6996. www.stellerestaurant.co.za. Open 18:00–22:30, Fri, Sat 12:30–16:00 and 18:00–22:30. Closed Sun, Mon. RR. Corkage R50. BL facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Gemelli Cucina Bar, Bryanston

TORTELLINO D’ORO This cosy family-run eatery with polished service also operates a busy deli where you can stock up on pricey necessities like Tortellino’s signature melanzane and spinach malfatti (dumplings of ricotta cheese and spinach).

There’s excellent pasta, veal and fillet dishes and dessert will have you wishing you had left more space.QOaklands Shopping Centre, cnr Pretoria and Victoria Sts, Oaklands, tel. +27 11 483 1249. Open 09:00–22:00, Sun, public holidays 09:00–15:00. RRR. LS

PIZZA 86 PUBLIC A cosy pizza joint with chequered vinyl banquettes and street views. The hip 86 Public specialises in pizza, to such an extent that there’s not much else on the menu. The choice of wine is also limited. So ditch any fussy friends and order crusty pizza with ample toppings and a range of vegetarian choices. A good choice for food before a night out in Braamfontein.QC-3, The Grove, 87 Juta St (entrance on Melle St), Braamfontein, tel. +27 61 157 1823. Open 12:00–22:00. RR. BSW ANDICCIO 24 This chain of pizza joints does takeaways and free deliveries but you can also eat your pizza at the store with a beer or design-your-own milkshake. It may be fast food, but their pizzas are top-notch and you can choose your own topping combinations. Branches in Sandton, Greenside and Randburg.Q3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 4603, www.andiccio24.co.za. Open 24hrs. R-RR. BSW CHALKBOARD CAFÉ Who needs decor when the walls are lined top to bottom with blackboards and even the tables can be scribbled on? A great little spot for drinks and pizza before or after a film or gig at independent cinema The Bioscope next door and consquently a favourite of Maboneng’s intellectual types. Great craft beer selection, decent coffee, and the pizzas are excellent – especially with a bit of fresh avocado thrown on top.Q286 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 039 7306, www.chalkboardcafe.co.za. Open 08:30–23:00. B May – August 2016

25

Where to eat

The Potato Shed, Newtown

MEAT Joburg is a meat-loving city. Grain-fed, lazy-aged prime cuts are the order of the day and most places will let you order a side dish of the popular local staple pap (maize meal) with tomato and onion gravy. Don’t be afraid of the ‘monkey gland sauce’: it’s just a sweet, tangy barbecuestyle sauce. The perfect accompaniment to a juicy steak is a large glass of red wine – wherever you go South African vintages won’t disappoint. Those who want to try more exotic game meats can usually find ostrich, springbok or kudu on the menu. Generally these red meats are much leaner than beef and go well as a carpaccio or as a steak.

Zebra is very gamey and quite tough. Biltong, a spiced and cured meat typically made from beef, is the ultimate South African snack and can be found at all butcheries and sold in vacuum-sealed packets in supermarkets. Also look out for droëwors, a dried spiced beef sausage made using a similar technique.

THE BULL RUN This elegant old building, attached to Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton, was once a countryside tea room. Today it retains the atmosphere of a relaxed oasis in the heart of Joburg's business district. The Bull Run is serious about offering exceptional meat and the restaurant has an in-house butchery. There's also an excellent selection of vintage brandies, whiskies, cognac and port.Q20 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 1400, www.bullrun.co.za. Open 12:00– 22:30, Sat 17:00–22:30. RRR. Corkage R50.LBSW CHE ARGENTINE GRILL What started out with a Sunday market stall making succulent wood-fired steaks is now a full-time gig for the Argentine team behind this atmospheric steakhouse. The location is an old warehouse lit by candles and with a 26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

shabby-chic decor that mixes urban and rustic elements.

Steaks, silky dulce de leche dessert and an outstanding homemade chorizo served with chimichurri sauce are the highlights.QG-4, 303 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 469 0290. Open 19:00–23:00, Sat-Sun 12:00–23:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RR-RRR. THE GRILLHOUSE Serving excellent spice-crusted fillet and saucy ribs amid a constant buzz, accompanied by a selection of single malts and fabulous local wines, reservations for this celebrated New York-style grill house are essential. Enquire about their hotel shuttle service.QThe Firs, cnr Cradock and Biermann Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880 3945, www.thegrillhouse. co.za. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–23:00, Sat 18:30– 23:00, Sun 12:00–15:00 and 18:30–22:00. RRR. L THE LOCAL GRILL Friendly and efficient service, wooden floors and streamlined decor – this place is a shrine to red meat. Devotees can enter the meat locker to choose a lazy-dry- or wetaged meat or opt for the ribs or ground beef burgers. The emphasis is on field to fork eating, grain-fed and grass-fed beef cows. Seared salmon is also a menu favourite and vegetarians are made to feel welcome.QCnr 7th Ave and 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 880 1946, www.localgrill.co.za. Open lunch 12:00–15:30, dinner 18:00–22:00.

Only open for lunch on Sun. RRR. TB THE POTATO SHED NEW This steampunk-BBQ-smokehouse restaurant, housed in a century-old building in the centre of revitalised Newtown, is an excellent pre-theatre dinner and drinks venue. The kitchen can do amazing things with humble potatoes and meat lovers can look forward to mouth-watering slowroasted meats such as the ribs three ways: a combo of cola johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat and pineapple basted beef from the fire pit, slow braised short rib from the embers and ashes, and lamb riblets from the wood-burning oven. Bring a big appetite.QB-4, Newtown Junction, Carr St, Newtown (parking at Newtown Junction), tel. +27 10 590 6133, www.thepotatoshed. com. Open 11:00–22:00, Fri-Sun 11:00–23:00. RRRR. Corkage R65. ULBW SMOKEHOUSE AND GRILL A barbecue menu with tasty burgers and fries, excellent steaks, slow-smoked ribs and a legendary pulled-pork sandwich. The atmosphere is lively, the prices upmarket and the staff friendly. It's also perfectly situated to give you the pick of Braamfontein's nightlife after dinner.QC-3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1395, thesmokehouseandgrill.co.za. Open 11:30–21:30, Thu–Sat 11:30– 22:30. Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R30. LEBSW TURN N TENDER This steakhouse chain is popular for its consistently tasty basted steaks and an excellent selection of sides. Swift and friendly service accompany the sizzling platters and there’s a respectable offering for fish-eaters and vegetarians. The atmosphere is easygoing and there are regular lunchtime specials. Also at Thrupps Illovo Centre and Village View Centre (Bedfordview).QParktown Quarter, 22 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 788 7933, www.turnntender. co.za. Open 11:30–22:00. Kitchen may close by 21:00 on Sun. RRR. Corkage R40. ULBS

FAST FOOD It may be fast, but at these two places you’ll find menus designed to please all manner of meat lover.

ROCOMAMAS Tasty beef burgers with unusual toppings such as saffron chili chutney and brinjal pickle. A sit-down fastfood joint, with a lively atmosphere and good service.

Tick off your add-ons from a list to build your own burger. There’s craft beers on tap and classic rock on the stereo. Also on the piazza at Melrose Arch.QThe Zone@Rosebank, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 268 2462, rocomamas.com. Open 09:00–22:00, Thu, Sat 09:00–23:00,Fri 09:00–24:00. R. LBS SHAP BRAAI A quirky little braai stand in the middle of fashionable Maboneng that attracts men in suits. If it’s not the delicious meaty smoke wafting through the streets that draws you into this converted shipping container, then the great tunes on the ghetto blaster might do it. Seating is on upcycled beer crates and the shisa nyama style food is made to order straight from the butcher counter with a choice of tasty sides.QG-4, 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, tel. +27 72 810 3109. Open 10:00– 22:00. R. NBS facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

SHISA NYAMA Shisa nyama is a Zulu phrase literally meaning ‘burn meat’, used to describe a popular style of venue found countrywide where you ‘buy and braai’. The action centres around a butchery counter where you select your own meat and then have it barbecued to your exact specifications. Many township shisa nyama create a weekend party atmosphere with DJs and bars, with a car wash often part of the attraction. Other smaller streetside braai stands cater to the urban workforce, looking for quick and easy street-side food on their lunch breaks.

CHAF POZI Sprawling in the shadow of the Orlando Towers in Soweto, this beer garden and braai spot is a local institution and at weekends the crowds descend from all directions for beers and meat, flame-grilled to perfection and served up with typical sides such as pap (a stiff maize porridge) and chakalaka (spicy bean stew). A popular weekend party spot with DJs playing everything from township jazz, to deep house, hip-hop and kwaito.QOrlando Towers, cnr Kingsley Sithole St and Nicholas St, Orlando East, Soweto, tel. +27 11 463 8895, www.chafpozi.co.za.

Open Wed, Thu 11:00–22:00, Fri 11:00–24:00, Sat 10:00–02:00, Sun 10:00–21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RR. Corkage R30. UBESW BUSY CORNER OUT OF TOWN At this friendly joint also known as Imbizo Shisa Nyama, customers are an eclectic mix of business bigwigs and ad agency hipsters. Service is friendly and fast. The quality of the steak is great – tender flesh, cooked to customer specification, gently spiced. There are no seasonal changes and vegetarians will be offered chicken.

Food is complemented by a selection of South African wines, a few Champagnes, numerous high-end whiskies and plenty of beer.QCnr Main and 29 September Rds, Extension 1, Ebony Park, Midrand, tel. +27 11 312 0630, www.imbizoshisanyama.co.za. Open Mon–Sun, 10:00–23:00. R. B May – August 2016

27

Where to eat COUNTRYSIDE DINING

DELIS & CHEESEMONGERS

You don’t have to drive forever for a taste of the countryside. For a novel experience book with Lebo’s Soweto Cycling Tours and finish your tour with lunch in a park in Orlando West, enjoying gourmet township fare (see p. 49).

CHEESE GOURMET Friendly and knowledgeable service and an excellent food selection from across the country are the hallmark of this café and deli. You’ll find more than 140 cheese varieties, fresh breads, preserves and cured meats produced with care.Q77 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 888 5384. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–15:00. Closed Sun.

33 HIGH STREET OUT OF TOWN 33 High Street and the adjoining craft brewery, Oakes Brewhouse, is set in the grounds of a colonial-style country house in historic Modderfontein. Sit under the dappled shade of a huge oak tree and tuck into Portuguese-inspired food and wood-fired ‘bubble bread’ pizzas while the kids have fun in the playground.

The scenic Modderfontein Reserve is just five minutes’ drive away (see p. 59).Q33 High St, Modderfontein, tel. +27 11 608 0733, www.33highstreet.com. Open 11:30–21:00, Sat 09:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–17:00 (kitchen closes at 15:00). Closed Mon. RR-RRR. BLTESW BERGBRON PLAASKOMBUIS NEW A homely Afrikaans farm kitchen and shop serving up bulging plates of rich and hearty comfort food, best washed down with refreshing homemade ginger beer or the demonically strong ‘moerkoffie’. Everything is homemade according to traditional family recipes.

Set across a wide veranda (stoep) which looks onto a garden nursery, the café is easily identified by the soaring steel wind pump at the entrance.QCnr Bergbron Dr and Helderberg Rd, Bergbron, Northcliff, tel. +27 76 932 4333. Open 07:30–16:30 (kitchen closes at 16:00), Sun 07:30–15:00 (kitchen closes at 14:30).

Closed Mon. R. BSTL DELTA CAFÉ This small café in a carefully converted old cottage looks out over the lush Delta Park. With stables on its doorstep, a jungle gym in the garden and a dedicated kids menu, this is an ideal hangout for families. The menu is full of simple and light lunchtime favourites such as salads, sandwiches and tuna fishcakes, or order the satisfying boiled egg and soldiers.Q20 Marlborough Rd, Craighall Park (entrance via garden centre), tel. +27 79 482 5286. Open 08:00–17:00. Closed Mon. RR. BL6T

CREMALAT In a large Tuscan-style building in an office park is La Cucina @Cremalat restaurant, an Italian cheese factory and deli. Browse for Italian goodies or order a massive plate of pasta in the restaurant. Restaurant bookings essential.

QGreenhills Industrial Estate for restaurant, Sam Green Rd, Tunney Ext 6, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 822 8320. Open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:00–14:00. Closed Sun. SUPER SCONTO Once located in the heart of Joburg’s Little Italy, this Italian food emporium with its superb range of cheeses, pastas and oils remains a go-to destination. Stray upstairs for a panini and espresso. Hot lunches are served from Tue to Fri, and Mon to Sat there’s homemade pizza.Q169-171 Louis Botha Ave (cnr 5th St), Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 2669, Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30–13:30, Sun 09:00–12:30.

PAUL’S ICE CREAM What started out as Paul Ballen’s hobby in 2009 in his parent’s kitchen is now Paul’s Homemade Ice Cream with two scooping stores in Joburg. The newest is in The Zone @ Rosebank. Flavour of the moment is birthday cake ice cream, with a cookie dough taste redolent of parties you loved as a kid. Not to forget other delights such as roasted banana and peppermint crisp tart. Order by the scoop, takeaway tub or try the monthly sundae variation. Latest additions include a carb-free variety, a dairy-free ice cream made with coconut cream and two xylitol ranges for the sugar averse, leaving no excuse to not visit.QThe Zone @ Rosebank (ground floor passageway), 117 Oxford Road, tel. +27 11 485 0104, paulshomemade.com. Open 09:00-21:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-22:00. R. SL

WESTCLIFF DELI TAKEAWAY CHICNIC NEW For an indulgent gourmet treat pre-order (12 hours notice) a takeaway picnic basket from The Westcliff Deli to be enjoyed at one of the hotel’s recommended picnic spots which include the Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens (see p. 59) and James and Ethel Gray Park in Melrose.

QFour Seasons The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 481 6000, www.fourseasons.com/ johannesburg. From R495 per person.

28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat GREEK AS GREEK AS IT GETS OUT OF TOWN Further afield and worth the trip is this family-friendly restaurant in a charming Edwardian terraced house in the historic mining town Cullinan, 45 minutes’ drive north-west of Joburg. After taking a tour of Cullinan’s diamond mine, stop here for meze platters, calamari, souvlaki or traditional moussaka. For dessert try the homemade baklava with cinnamon, orange and apricot.Q86 Oak Avenue, Cullinan, tel. +27 83 6325364, www.asgreekasitgets.co.za. Open Thu–Sat 12:30–15:30, 18:00–21:00, Sun, Mon 12:30– 15:30. Closed Tue, Wed. Meze plates from R45, meze platter R160 per person sharing. TB PAREA A lively taverna serving Greek fare since 1993. Their wideranging menu includes a large selection of meze dishes, roasted fish specialities and other standard Greek fare like kleftiko and souvlakia. From 21:30 on Fridays and Saturdays the restaurant hots up with Greek dancing, belly-dancers and smashing crockery. This is a popular place to celebrate birthdays. If you prefer a quieter meal, get there early.Q3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 8777, www.parea.co.za.

Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–20:00. RR. BS SOUL SOUVLAKI NEW An authentic souvlaki stop based in a cleverly reconstructed shipping container. The roof deck is a great place to watch the world go by while enjoying the finest souvlaki (chicken or lamb pieces drenched in tzatziki with fresh tomatoes, red onion and rocket wrapped up snugly in a freshly baked gyro) and late afternoon it becomes a cool bar from which to watch the sun set over Maboneng’s urban streets.Q18 Albrecht St, cnr Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 72 3000 896.

Open 10:00–17:00, Sundays 10:00–18:00. Café on the deck opens 07:30. RR. Corkage R50. LBS

MIDDLE EASTERN EAT YOUR HEART OUT The decor of this intimate eatery is inspired, and constantly evolving – a collaboration between innovative T-shirt designer Love Jozi and top fashion label Black Coffee. Tables along the pavement have ‘tochas’ cushions. Try the latkes (potato rostis) with a range of toppings or the excellent shawarma salad paired with a freshly pressed juice.QG4, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, tel. +27 72 586 0600, www.eatyourheartout.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00.

Sat, Sun 07:30–18:00. Closed Mon. R. BSW KING ARABIC SANDWICH This humble bakery and café run by a Palestinian family has the best falafel in town. You can also choose from delicious pies, shawarmas and stuffed pita breads (‘Arabic sandwiches’), and look out for traditional specialities like maklooba and qedrah, a kind of Arabic biryani.QCnr Hanover St and 9th Ave, Mayfair, tel. +27 74 292 6191. Open 08:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00–22:00. Closed Mon. R. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Soul Souvlaki, Maboneng

TETA MARI For the best shakshouka breakfast (poached eggs cooked in a spicy tomato sauce) there’s this stylish café with an outdoor deck perfect for sunny days, serving generous portions of food. Other musts are the vanilla-infused kitka French toast with mascarpone, halva and toasted almonds or the New York deli-style Reuben Special of brisket on rye.

Q5A Illovo Square, cnr Harries and Rivonia Rds, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 5019. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00– 16:00. RR. B

PORTUGUESE 1920 PORTUGUESE This exceptional Madeiran restaurant hides inside an unremarkable strip mall. Authentic and family friendly, Portuguese knickknacks abound. The kitchen closes early (20:30), but it’s worth the trip for delicious and saucy plates of spicy peri-peri chicken, beef espetada (on a skewer), prawns and calamari.QFerndale Village, Cnr Main Ave and Oxford St, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 3161. Open for lunch 12:00– 15:00 and dinner 17:00–21:00 (kitchen closes at 20:30).

Closed Mon. RR. TROYEVILLE HOTEL The unfussy Portuguese cuisine with a Mozambican influence never disappoints here. This authentically dated hotel in the edgy neighbourhood of Troyeville has a lot of cred with local political activists, artists and musicians, and also hosts regular book evenings. There’s a regular crowd of barflies, and it’s an excellent place to watch a game or to eat before rugby matches at the Emirates Airline Park (Ellis Park).QH-3, 1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd (Cnr Dawe St), Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 7709, www.troyevillehotel. co.za. Open 09:00–22:00. ​Guarded parking at the rear entrance. RR. BE May – August 2016

29

Where to eat SAENGCHA NEW All round authentic, you’d have to travel a long way to find a better massaman curry, green curry or angry duck.

Fragrant Thai spices and herbs, coconut, peanuts, tangy lime and fiery chillis dominate the menu which features all the classics. Located in the quiet suburbs of Edenvale (15 minutes’ drive from O.R. Tambo International Airport), there’s little else in the area to warrant your attention.Q59 Terrace Rd, Eastleigh, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 452 9336, www.thairestaurant.co.za. Open 09:00–20:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. LBS Perron, Illovo

ASIAN Joburg has it all, from spicy authentic Thai food to fresh sushi and genuine Japanese cuisine. The heart of the local Chinese community is the large Cyrildene Chinatown, located along Derrick Avenue. There’s not much English spoken around these parts and some restaurants may look a little rough, but for an exotic and authentic experience, this neighbourhood is the best. Stroll the street and sample tastes from China, South Korea and Thailand. Our favourite restaurants here include Fisherman’s Plate, Chinese Northern Foods, Shun De (for dim sum) and Sai Thai.

There is also a big Chinese community in Rivonia. Head to the Rivonia Junction and Rivonia Corner strip malls for a wide choice of Chinese, Korean, Vietnamese and Japanese shops and restaurants.

THE BLACKANESE Flavours from African and Japanese cuisine are fused together at this cute sushi spot. The decor is minimalist and includes chopsticks on the walls and upturned bowls as light fittings. Order the enormous sushi platters, perfect for sharing, or from the weekend fish braai.QG-4, 20 Kruger St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 024 9455, www.theblackanese.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00, Fri–Sun 09:00–22:00.

Closed Mon. RR. BL HASHI Calamari, crispy chicken, prawn tempura, avocado, cream cheese and even strawberries have all found their way onto the menu at this Venezuelan-owned fusion sushi and seafood restaurant. Stand out items include the dragon prawn tempura, ‘sushi pizza’ (salmon on a toasted rice base drizzled with Hashi’s own special sauce) and deep fried ice-cream.

Q32 7th St (cnr 4th Ave), Linden, tel. +27 11 888 0330, www.hashi.co.za. Open 11:30–22:00. RR. SLUW RED CHAMBER Chef Emma Chen serves up a range of unforgettable Mandarin-style dishes striving for a harmony of taste, texture, colour and aroma with a strict no-MSG policy. Famous for spicy cucumber salad with chilli and garlic, Peking Duck and sizzling plates.QHyde Park Corner, Cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 6048, www. redchamber.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00. RR. L 30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

YAMATO The much-awarded Yamato serves elegant and traditional Japanese food with polite service. The superior sushi and sashimi menu is more than a few cuts above your average conveyor belt and other highlights include the perfect gyoza dumplings and light tempura dishes. Solemn atmosphere but what a combination of flavours!QIllovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0511, www.yamato.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00, 18:00–22:00.

Closed Sun. SL

MEXICAN BAHA TACO NEW This colourful casual taqueria operated by Dave and Katrin Smale started out as a market stall. Specialising in Mexican street food this is a cutlery-free zone, where you’ll find a menu of freshly-pressed tortillas filled with delicious bites of medium rare skirt steak, prawn, haloumi and vegetables, or pulled pork. Everything here is freshly prepared, full of spicy goodness. Finish the meal with churros accompanied by velvety dark chocolate sauce.

Unlicensed.QShop 3 Tarquin House, 38 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. + 27 76 694 7400. Open 12:00–21:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. N MAMA MEXICANA Two friends spent literally two years perfecting their nachos, burritos, quesadillas, chimichangas and enchiladas at their Sunday Market on Main stall. Luckily for you, they decided it was worth a full-time gig and opened a restaurant. Service tends to dip according to how busy they are.

The prices are mild and spicy food is on request.QG-4, 264 Fox St (Arts on Main), Maboneng, tel. +27 11 334 1982. Open 09:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–18:00. Closed Mon. R. L PERRON The frozen margaritas, festive atmosphere and a neon bright interior that spills seamlessly out onto the street, are the main attractions at this perennially busy neighbourhood hangout. The extensive menu strives for originality (no fajitas here). Highlights include the popcorn polo taco, the spicy pork belly and the chilli cheese poppers.QIllovo Junction (cnr Corlett Dr and Oxford Rd), Illovo, tel. +27 11 880 7296, www.perron.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:00 until last guest, Sun 12:00–16:00. RR. B johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat DINING HOTSPOT: MELVILLE Alternative, eclectic and with not one franchise restaurant in sight, Melville is Joburg’s bohemian neighbourhood. A popular residential suburb for artists, writers, academics and students, Melville is known for its quirky shops, friendly cafés and the nightlife strip along 7th Street, with its casual eateries and smart restaurants that are full of character.

Here’s our round-up of some of the best places to eat.

27 BOXES This landmark boutique shopping centre made entirely from shipping containers is a good place to pick up some snacks on the go, or you can opt to settle in for a meal at The Countess (see below). Enticing food stalls to seek out include Paul’s Homemade Ice-Cream, Von Pickartz Belgian Waffles, Camilla’s Macarons and Greek seafood café Prawn Stars. The Wednesday night market has a tasty selection of food.Q75 4th Ave, tel. +27 11 712 0000, www.27boxes. co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon. ANT CAFÉ A cosy, dimly-lit, neighbourhood spot bursting with character. Founded two decades ago by artist Ronnie van der Walt, no space is left uncovered by memorabilia and items of curiosity, giving it the air of a bohemian artist’s studio.

The pizza crust is impossibly thin, piled with cheese and plentiful fresh toppings. Reservations recommended.Q11 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 76 476 5671. Open 12:00–24:00.

RR. Corkage R45. B

The Leopard, Melville

LUCKY BEAN Popular for its South African dishes such as springbok pie and ostrich, as well as its broad vegetarian selection, this laidback bar and restaurant is a Melville institution. Look out for the live music events, and make sure to book for these. The easy-going bar is a good sundowner spot.Q16 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 5572, luckyb.co.za. Open 11:00 until last guest. Closed Mon. RRR. EB

SERVICE STATION This bright corner café serves breakfasts, lunches and tea with a view of the Melville Koppies. At lunch the harvest table is laden with a fresh selection of salads and lasagnes or quiches. Pile up your plate and pay by the weight. Try the breakfast of yoghurt, granola, fresh fruit and honey.

QBamboo, cnr 9th St and Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 1701. Open 07:30–18:00, Sat 08:00–17:00, Sun 08:30–15:30. L

THE COUNTESS NEW Everything handmade is a guiding precept of this steampunk-inspired restaurant located in an inventive doublestorey shipping container. Hearty home cooking meets the American South with lots of smoky and sweet barbecue flavours, excellent pickled vegetables, and an emphasis on comfort foods given. Do not leave without tasting the Pot de Crème, which mixes the richness of a crème brûlée with the sharp flavour of black lava salt melted into maple syrup.

The Countess also has a varied breakfast menu (until 12:00) and serves raw juices, smoothies, and milkshakes that have incited poetry.Q27 Boxes, 75 4th Avenue, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 7361, www.thecountess.co.za. Open 11:30–21:00, Fri 11:30 until late, Sat 08:30–22:00, Sun 08:30–18:00. Closed Mon. Last orders one hour before closing time. RR. Unlicensed. UBLSW

GREAT EASTERN FOOD BAR Dim sum, gyoza dumplings and delicious coconut ramen are just a few of the tricks up Nick Scott and Carolina Rasenti’s sleeves. Much like the menu the setting is pared down and subtle – a boxy wood interior laid out across a Melville rooftop and overlooking the delightful greenery of the Melville Koppies.QBamboo, cnr 9th St and Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 2910. Open 12:00–23:00, Mon 18:00–20:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. RR. L

THE LEOPARD A small menu of innovative dishes using seasonal ingredients. Chef and owner Andrea Burgener’s quirky style is simultaneously cool yet comforting, international and authentic.

French and Italian-inspired dishes sit side by side with fresh Asian flavours and African culinary classics.Q63A 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9356, leopardfoodcompany.com.

Open 17:00–23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–23:00. Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R50–R70. For pre-2006 wines R25. B

LA LUNA Excellent homemade pasta and other Italian dishes. The subtle flavours and genteel ambience of this restaurant on Melville’s busy strip is a welcome surprise. The menu is the work of two chefs whose experience has included working at one of the city’s top five-star-hotels.Q9 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 7451, laluna-melville.co.za. Open 11:30– 22:30, Mon 17:30–22:30. Closed Sun. RR-RRR.

TURKISH SHAWARMA & GRILL NEW This is a great-value, down-to-earth family-run restaurant.

The extensive menu is all halal and includes grilled meats, shawarmas and kebabs, freshly baked breads and a range of tasty salads and dips which you can mix and match. Order a grilled platter to share and there’ll be plenty left over for home time.QCnr 7th St and 3rd Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 1125. Open 11:30–21:00, Fri-Sun 11.30–22:00. R. S

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Where to eat LOOF COFFEE NEW Drop by this friendly little local spot for coffee any way you like. From the chemex to the cold brew and the flat white to the cortado, the menu is a veritable encyclopaedia of how to enjoy coffee. For a turbo-powered morning, order the ‘espresso with attitude’ – double espresso with condensed milk and a drop of chilli essence.Q85 Iris Rd, Norwood, tel. +27 72 675 3992. Open 07:30–18:30, Sat 08:00–18:30, Sun 08:00–17:00.

UNCLE MERV’S A sidewalk smoothie and a coffee any-way-you-like-it stop – try the Felix King with peanut butter, soy milk, banana, honey and dates. There are also snacks, fresh croissants and banana bread. The charming barrista will remember you for next time with a friendly greeting.QCnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, tel. +27 73 211 5127, Open 07:00–16:00. B Milk Bar, City Centre

COFFEE ​ offee is not just a drink, it’s a lifestyle and this city really C knows a thing or two about making a decent brew. Global giant Starbucks recently made its debut in the South African market with a coffee shop next to Rosebank Mall, although by and large the local scene is dominated by small local chains and independent shops.

4TH AVENUE ROASTERS The beans are freshly roasted and the coffee is worth writing home about. This is a hip little spot where the neighbourhood denizens drop by with pampered mutts (who are catered for with their own doggie water bowls) for a quick espresso. Tables outside offer a great vantage point to watch the posh people of Parkhurst strut their stuff.

QThe Cobbles, cnr 4th Ave and 11th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 82 378 2109, www.4thavenuecoffee.co.za. Open 07:00–18:00, Mon 07:00–17:30. 6SBL BEAN THERE South Africa’s first roaster of Certified Fairtrade coffee sources its single origin unblended coffee from Rwanda, Tanzania, Ethiopia, and Kenya. The minimalist decor of the store is perfect for savouring the smell of freshly roasted beans.Q44 Stanley, Cnr Stanley Ave and Owl St, Milpark, tel. +27 87 310 3100, www.beanthere.co.za. Open 07:00–16:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 09:00–12:00.BSW THE GRIND COFFEE COMPANY NEW Visit upmarket Melrose Arch for the most Instagram-worthy coffees in the city, found at this small coffee bar, part of a cycle shop. Try the signature Coffee in a Cone, a machiato served in a chocolate lined ice-cream cone or for a cold refreshment the nitro cold brew ‘Draught Coffee’ (which comes out of a beer tap).QWhitely Rd, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 72 754 8705.

Open 06:30–18:00, Sat 07:30–16:00, Sun 08:00–16:00.

USBLW 32 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

CAFÉS CROFT & COFFEE Good service, fresh bottled juices delivered daily, strong coffee and possibly the best creamy scrambled eggs in town, have made this spot the early-morning hangout for Joburg’s intellectual set, media types and wannabes, replaced by a later shift of lycra-clad ladies with Louis Vuitton handbags. It’s also an all-round tasty lunch choice with a simple menu of salads, toasties and prego rolls.Q66 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 3634, www.croftandco.co.za. Open 06:30–17:00, Thu, Fri 06:30–21:00, Sat 07:00–14:00, Sun 07:00–12:00. LBW GLENDA’S NEW Glenda Lederle, formerly of Illovo’s The Patisserie, is renowned for her incredible cakes and pastries and delicious café-style food. Returning to Joburg after two years away, her loyal following of ladies who lunch and other high society bosses and belles are flocking to this delightfully stylish French-influenced restaurant and café. The coffee is top notch as are the petit choux pastries.QHyde Square, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and North Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 6369. Open 07:00–17:00, Thu–Sat 07:00–22:00, Sun 08:00–16:00. BLS MILK BAR NEW This contemporary Africa-themed café in downtown Joburg, opposite the High Court is a fresh and fun space decorated with African antiques and artefacts. You’ll find a basic café menu here of tasty local fare that includes bunny chow and prego rolls, plus excellent coffee sourced from Rwanda, Ethiopia and Tanzania and a selection of African beers. Named after Abu’s Milk Bar in downtown Addis Ababa, the Milk Bar has a lounge area and cool courtyard out back complete with wooden giraffes and metal hadedas.QE-4, Shop 2, Schreiner Chambers, 94 Pritchard St (opposite the High Court), City Centre, tel. +27 11 333 1630. Open 06:30–18:00, Sat 08:00–12:00.

Closed Sun. UBSW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat xxx xxxHIGH

TEA

High tea and tea on high. From the lightest and fluffiest buttery scones to tea served with an incomparable vista, Joburg has it all. For authenticity we recommend afternoon tea served amid the astonishing historical details of the Victorian Lindfield House Museum following a tour (book one week in advance – see p. 45).

Arque Champagne Crescent, Sandton City

PARK CAFÉ Pretty in pink, this café shares the block with some of Joburg’s top art galleries and is a great spot from which to launch an art walk. A spectacular eagle-topped Belle Epoque coffee machine takes counter pride of place. The coffee is perfect and the menu is all about fresh, healthy ingredients – for breakfast the poached eggs with spicy tomatoes are supreme or try the oats with fresh fruit.QOpen 07:30–17:00 (kitchen closes at 15:00), Sat 08:00–15:00, Sun 08:00–12:00.ULSW SALVATIONCAFÉ Excellent breakfast options – ‘healthy’, ‘sweet’ and ‘savoury’, plus breakfast burritos – ensure a memorable morning meal at this busy café at 44 Stanley. Surrounded by enticing design and fashion stores the tables flow outdoors onto a covered veranda and into a picturesque courtyard, perfect for relaxed family meals. Adults will envy the kids menu and for lunch there’s a wide selection of salads, sandwiches and wraps.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 7795, www.salvationcafe.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00 (kitchen closes at 15:00). Closed Mon. TB VOODOO LILY CAFÉ With its recycled materials, organic, Fair Trade ingredients and menu full of vegetarian and carb-free options, Gwyneth Paltrow and her fellow Californian yoga junkies would feel right at home at this chilled spot on a suburban corner. There is even a small menu for dogs. The customisable breakfast menu is excellent and portions are very generous. There is also a children’s menu and a playground out front.Q64 St Andrew St, Birdhaven, tel +27 11 442 6965, www.voodoolilycafe.com. Open 07:00-22:00. Sun 07:0015:00. UBTSLW THE WHIPPET Those in the know credit this buzzing coffee shop with its hipster aesthetic for putting Linden on the cool map. The food is freshly made café-style and the coffee and tea selection is top rate. On Friday evenings the after-work crowd swells the place for drinks and tapas, and every morning the doors open early for delicious breakfasts.Q34 7th St (cnr 4th Ave), tel. +27 11 782 7310, www.thewhippet.co.za. Open 06:30–16:00, Fri 06:30–22:00, Sat 07:30–15:00. B facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

ARQUE CHAMPAGNE CRESCENT NEW This Champagne bar set in the midst of the world’s top luxury-label stores in Sandton City Diamond Walk is a partnership with exclusive luxury French Champagne house Perrier-Jouët. The ‘Haute V’ tea menu includes Petits Fours au Champagne, Champagne Sorbet and teas from the luxury Yswara brand. The price depends on your bubbly choice, from R250 to R450 per person. Booking essential.QLevel 6, Sandton City Diamond Walk (see p.

40), tel. +27 11 326 8138, arque-africa.com. High tea served Fri–Sun 14:00–17:00. R200 per person.

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL THE WESTCLIFF For a contemporary spin on high tea accompanied by a jaw-dropping view, soak in the casual refinement of Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff. Tea here is a chic affair with a seasonal menu and a choice of sweet or savoury stands. Booking essential.Q67 Jan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 481 6180, www.fourseasons.com/ johannesburg. High tea served Mon–Thu 14:30– 17:00. R395 per person.

THE PALAZZO, MONTECASINO The elegantly served daily menu comprises a variety of cakes, petite quiches, assorted sandwiches and a fine selection of single-origin Ceylon teas. Excellent value for money, this high tea is served at the hotel’s Medeo Restaurant terrace overlooking the pool and gardens. Booking essential.QPalazzo Hotel Montecasino, Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 3714, www.tsogosunhotels.com. High tea served Mon–Sat 14:00–17:00. R220 per person.

THE VICTORIAN SECRET OUT OF TOWN If time allows, visit the Victorian Secret Artisan Bakery and Patisserie in Benoni (a 30-minute drive from Joburg city centre) to enjoy high tea with perfectly crustless cucumber and cream cheese sandwiches plus a selection of pastries. Located in a heritage property, sit inside an antique-filled room or outside in the quaint garden.

Q140 Woburn Ave, Western Ext., Benoni, tel. +27 11 420 1912, www.thevictoriansecret.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–14:00. Booking for high tea required. R160 per person.

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Joburg history

Sunnyside Park Hotel, Lord Alfred Milner’s headquarters

Helen Joseph House

Whitehall Court

13 decades, 13 personalities Brett McDougall chairs the Johannesburg Heritage Foundation, a non-profit organisation founded in 1985 and dedicated to championing the often lonely cause of documenting and protecting the city’s heritage. As Joburg marks its 130th year, we asked him for the lowdown on the key personalities that have shaped the city’s built environment and sensibilities. Visit these sites and others as part of the foundation’s monthly programme of fascinating tours.

See www.joburgheritage.co.za.

1886–96: LIONEL PHILLIPS George Harrison may have discovered gold, but Phillips ensured Joburg did not become a ghost town by introducing a more efficient gold extraction process. His memory lives on in the magnificent Herbert Baker-designed Villa Arcadia (now headquarters of Hollard insurance company, and formerly Joburg’s Jewish orphanage) and in the copperdomed Corner House of 1903 – still downtown Commissioner Street’s grandest building.QVilla Arcadia, Federation Rd, Parktown; Corner House, 77 Commissioner St, City Centre.

1896–1906: LORD ALFRED MILNER After British victory in the South African War (1899–1902) Milner undertook administration of two Boer states. With like-minded Imperialists he radically overhauled the city’s and colony’s administration. Kitchener’s Carvery at the Lord Milner Hotel in Braamfontein is where he met with General Lord Kitchener in 1902, while Sunnyside Park in Parktown was his seat of power.QKitchener’s Carvery, 71 Juta Street, Braamfontein; Sunnyside Park Hotel, Princess of Wales Terrace & Carse O’Gowrie Rd, Parktown.

1906–16: MOHANDAS GANDHI In Joburg, Gandhi crystallised the philosophy that swept British colonial rule from the Indian subcontinent. It was his leadership of a 3 000-strong protest in 1906 against the pass law extension that marked the start of a resistance campaign later known as Satyagraha. His spirit can be poignantly felt at The Kraal, now Satyagraha House bou36 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

tique hotel and museum, built by his great friend Hermann Kallenbach, and where they stayed from 1908-09.QSatyagraha House, 15 Pine Rd, Orchards.

1916–26: MARY FITZGERALD Exposure to mining’s appalling working conditions awakened the fiery Irish temperament of dutiful wife and shorthand typist Mary Fitzgerald, who became South Africa’s first woman trade union organiser. Famous for brandishing her pick handle, used in the 1911 tramway strike, in rousing speeches delivered from the Ferreirastown Hotel’s bar counter, Fitzgerald was the first Joburg woman to hold public office. Newtown’s old market square, where she led the Pick Handle Brigade, is named for her. The bar counter can be found at the Radium Beer Hall (see p. 39).QMary Fitzgerald Sq, Newtown.

1926–36: ISIDORE SCHLESINGER Enthralled by the vibrancy and energy of New York, Joburg by the end of the 1930s was a city of art deco skyscrapers. Isidore Schlesinger, a Jewish New Yorker, transformed Commissioner Street into Joburg’s Broadway. His home in Killarney, an Italian palazzo that he named The Ritz, today survives as the residential block Whitehall Court.QWhitehall Court, 2nd Ave, Killarney; His Majesty’s, cnr Commissioner and Eloff Sts, City Centre.

1936–46: JAMES MPANZA Drawn to the mines by promises of wealth, and driven from rural areas by punitive laws and taxes, thousands of black South Africans made Joburg home. Finding a place to stay was almost impossible, and living conditions were appalling. James Mpanza was a convicted murderer redeemed by religion. Unable to ignore the plight of the homeless, in April 1944 he persuaded 8 000 people to follow him to create Sofasonke (‘We shall all die’) township. By 1946, 20 000 squatters were paying Mpanza a fee to join the camp and to maintain basic services. Sadly, the plight of the city’s homeless is as pressing today.QJames Mpanza House, Mooki St, Orlando East, Soweto. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg history

Satyagraha House

Manuel Zublena Villa Arcadia, built by mining magnate Lionel Phillips

1946–56: FATHER TREVOR HUDDLESTON As priest-in-charge of the Anglican Mission in Sophiatown and Orlando (1943-1956), Huddleston led protests against forced removals in Sophiatown (a result of the Group Areas Act passed in 1950) and refused to hand over St Peter’s School in Rosettenville for government use under the Bantu Education Act. Despite his efforts, on February 9, 1955 troops removed Sophiatown’s 60 000 inhabitants. Only three buildings remained of the once vibrant suburb, two houses and the Anglican Church where Huddleston had bravely ministered.QAnglican Church of Christ the King, cnr Good and Herman Sts, Sophiatown, sophiatown.net.

1956–66: HELEN JOSEPH ‘On 31 December 1956 I moved into my little cottage… delighted to have a home of my own…’ (Joseph, 1986).

Joseph’s move to 35 Fanny Avenue, Norwood was an act of faith and optimism as she was arrested days before that, charged with treason, and would be on trial for four harrowing years. Banned four times, jailed four times, she spent much of her life under house arrest. The actions of a brave group of anti-apartheid activists, including Joseph, defined the 1950s and 1960s in Joburg.QHelen Joseph House, 35 Fanny Ave, Norwood.

1966–76: HECTOR PIETERSON Sam Nzima’s image of the limp body of 12-year-old Hector carried by Mbuyisa Makhubo, and accompanied by Pieterson’s grief stricken sister, Antoinette, has seared itself into the South African consciousness. June 16, 1976 proved to be the beginning of the end of Apartheid rule. The actions of Pieterson and others are today immortalised in the Hector Pieterson memorial in Orlando, but the struggle for quality education for all remains as relevant as ever (see p. 49).QHector Pieterson Memorial, Orlando, Soweto.

1976–86: BARNEY SIMON South Africa’s bleakest decade followed the 1976 riots. In that time Barney Simon bravely decided to open a theatre in the city’s abandoned former fruit market in Newtown’s desolate industrial landscape. The Market Theatre was created as a space for the conception and production of indigenous African performance. Working under racial segregation laws, without state subsidies, Simon was under facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

constant threat of arrest for staging controversial contemporary plays performed by multiracial casts for multiracial audiences. Today the Market Theatre celebrates 40 years as a vital city institution (see p. 10).QThe Market Theatre, Newtown, markettheatre.co.za.

1986–96: MICHAEL RAPP In the late 1960s the city centre appeared invincible. Michael Rapp’s announcement of plans to build a 20-storey office tower and 30 000m2 mall in the heart of the minkand-manure belt north of the city was met with disbelief.

But by 1986 his vision seemed prescient: a state of emergency was declared in July 1985 and increasingly fearful whites abandoned the city for the safety of the suburbs.

By the mid-1990s this momentum appeared unstoppable, and today Joburg’s centre of gravity has moved decidedly north.QSandton City, Sandton, sandtoncity.co.za.

1996–2006: ARTHUR CHASKALSON Chaskalson was a member of the Rivonia Trial defence team, and in his long and illustrious career was instrumental in drafting democratic South Africa’s constitution. He also served as the first president of the Constitutional Court.

When the court chose a permanent home it was symbolically at the Old Fort, which had served as a jail for many political prisoners. The brief was to create a building to reflect the values of a new constitutional democracy, rooted in the South African landscape. There is no more enduring monument to his vision.QThe Constitutional Court, Constitution Hill, Braamfontein (see p. 44).

2006–16: NELSON MANDELA Following Mandela’s death in 2013 thousands gathered outside the Houghton home where he spent his last weeks.

Mandela arrived in Joburg in 1941, serving articles at a law firm and attending Wits University. He then opened his famed law practice with Oliver Tambo at Chancellor House.

He would be key to the anti-apartheid struggle until his arrest in 1962 and even then, imprisoned on Robben Island, would inspire generations to fight for justice. Rising from humble origins to achieve extraordinary things in the most challenging circumstances, in many ways he is the Joburg Everyman.

QNelson Mandela House, 9 12th Avenue, Houghton Estate; Chancellor House, Fox Street, City Centre.

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Nightlife

The Radium Beer Hall, Orange Grove Joburg has it all, from hipster bars and dance clubs to historic pubs and bar districts. The only tricky bit is that the main nightlife areas are spread across the city. Some of the most popular nightlife areas include studenty 7th Street in Melville, Parkhurst’s 4th Avenue, Gleneagles Rd in Greenside and the trendy inner-city districts Maboneng and Braamfontein. Generally smoking is only allowed outside or in specially designated covered areas. If you are driving stay sober or take a taxi or Uber (use our discount code on p. 18). The legal drinking age in South Africa is 18.

JOBURG’S OLDEST PUBS Joburg traces its history back to July 1886 when gold was discovered among the rocky ridges of the Witwatersrand.

On September 20, 1886 President Paul Kruger proclaimed the area open for public digging and fortune seekers from as far afield as California and Australia poured into South Africa seeking their future wealth on the world’s largest known gold reef. Although in the first months the settlement was little more than a dusty, tented camp it had all the basic necessities; barber shops, bars, brothels and banks. An old gin box served as the post box at Joburg’s first post office and the first bank, Standard Bank, operated out of a tent. By the end of 1886 the mining camp had an official cricket and football team, a circus and the Central Hotel and Bar, whose barmaid it is said also ‘bestowed her nightly favours – at a price’. By 1887 Joburg had its first members-only establishment, the Rand Club, frequented by mining randlords, the company of which included the now disgraced Cecil John Rhodes.

Within a year wooden buildings had replaced most of the first tents and tin shacks, which by the mid-1890s were cleared away for taller brick buildings. As the turn of the century approached Joburg was a fully modern city with electric street lights, theatres, trams, schools, churches, mar38 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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kets, jails and a serious reputation for vice. There were bars and brothels on almost every corner and locals dubbed the city centre ‘Frenchfontein’ (an allusion to the perceived lax morals of the French). While many of the traces of the city’s past have been wiped away today there are still a handful of pubs from the late Victorian era where you can raise a glass to Joburg’s history.

In historic Ferreirasdorp (the location of the first tented camp), you’ll find the Good Luck Bar named in honour of the early 1890s drinking establishments that were said to have operated from this location, serving local mineworkers and fortune hunters alike. A live music bar and club with an adjoining restaurant, the bar is located in the eye-catching Sheds@1Fox complex, a recently restored collection of historic warehouses that date back to 1893.

Over the railway tracks in Braamfontein it’s hard to miss the striking cobalt blue exterior of Kitchener’s Carvery and Bar with its tin roof and intricate wrought iron lacework balcony. The original interiors have also been maintained and include pressed ceilings, a grand bar counter and original Victorian wallpaper. To add to its authentic appeal there is even said to be a ghostly British imperial officer who haunts the upstairs offices. Opened in 1898 as the Hansa Bar and Hotel, during the Anglo-Boer War Kitchener’s was a popular drinking hole for British army officers. In 1902 Lord Milner and Lord Kitchener met here and reached an agreement that proved to be a turning point in the war.

Following that fateful meeting the hotel was renamed The Milner Hotel and the bar Kitchener’s in their honour. Today there is a bar next door, Great Dane, which was once part of the hotel. The original interiors have long gone but the exterior curved windows still look much as they did more than a century ago. Both bars are now among the most popular late-night party spots in trendy Braamfontein.

Further afield on Louis Botha Avenue in Orange Grove, another pub can lay claim to the ‘Oldest in the City’ title, but johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

for other reasons. The Radium Beer Hall opened in 1929 as a tearoom that also functioned as an illegal shebeen (makeshift bar) for 13 years. When Joburg’s Ferreirastown Hotel (opened 1893) was demolished in the 1940s the Radium’s owners acquired the hotel’s historic bar counter and installed it in the pub where it remains to this day. Legend has it that during the 1922 miners revolt (the Rand Revolt), the Irish-born trade unionist Mary Fitzgerald (after whom Newtown’s public square is named) climbed atop this very same bar counter with a pick handle to deliver a fiery speech encouraging the miners to strike. The Radium’s own custom-brewed red beer, the Mary Pick Handle, is named in her honour. Very much a neighbourhood pub, the Radium attracts an eclectic mix of regulars and is famous for its spicy Portuguese food and energetic live music nights.

Another noteworthy historic bar is the Pound & Penny Pub in the Sunnyside Park Hotel, which occupies a Victorian manor house built in Parktown in 1895. The inner-city historic landmark The Guildhall pub sadly closed its doors recently, and its future remains uncertain. First opened in 1888, the pub had one of the finest examples of late-Victorian decor, as well as an excellent archive of historical photos. * Information gathered on a Joburg Heritage Foundation Tour. See p. 36.

THE GOOD LUCK BAR B-5, 1 Fox St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 76 043 3893, goodluckbar.co.za. Open for gigs Wed–Thu from 17:00, Fri, Sat 15:00–02:00, Sun 12:00– 18:00. Cover charge for concerts.

KITCHENER’S CARVERY AND BAR C-3, Cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0166. Open 10:00– 21:00, Thu 10:00–02:00, Fri–Sat 10:00–04:00. Cover charge after 21:00 on Fri, Sat. GREAT DANE C-3, 5 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1136, Open Wed 19:00–04:00, Thu–Sat 12:00–04:00.

Cover charge after 21:00 on Fri, Sat. THE RADIUM BEER HALL 282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, www.theradium.co.za. Open 10:00–23:30, Sat 11:00 until last guest. Closed Sun. Concerts Fri, Sat (cover charge applies).

POUND & PENNY PUB Sunnyside Park Hotel, Princess of Wales Terrace, Parktown, tel. +27 11 640 0400, www.legacyhotels.co.za/en/hotels/sunnyside. Open 11:00–23:00.

Closed Sun. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

LIVE MUSIC You’ll find many local bars and cafés host live acts at weekends. To get a taste for the local music scene, go to a gig at one of these venues. The Good Luck Bar is one of the newest live music venues on the scene, and the The Radium Beer Hall one of the oldest. Check on the venues’ social media pages to see who’s playing.

AFRIKAN FREEDOM STATION Tiny jazz café in the old Sophiatown area specialising in African jazz, poetry and spoken word. A scruffy, bohemian kind of hangout made for meaningful conversations over cheap beers with local intellectuals, artists and musicians.

Gigs usually held Thu-Sun.Q41 5th Ave, Westdene, tel. +27 73 852 5149, www.afrikanfreedomstation.co.za.

AMUSE CAFÉ Small bar showcasing all genres, from groovy Afro-jazz or soft indie-folk to those serious teens churning out progressive rock for a handful of die-hard fans.Q34 5th St (cnr 4th Ave), Linden, tel. +27 84 555 5252. Open 15:00–24:00, Sun 15:00–20:00. Closed Mon. BASSLINE Long-standing concert venue hosting regular concerts by well known South African bands in the main hall, as well as the pounding weekly ragga night Fire Thursdays.QB-4, 10 Henry Nxumalo St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 838 9142, bassline.co.za.

CARFAX Underground live music venue in a graffiti-plastered downtown warehouse attracting edgy and alternative local and international acts. During major music events the adjoining cobbled streets are closed off to accommodate open-air gigs. Next to Carfax is & Club (see p. 43).QB-4, 39 Gwi Gwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, tel. +27 83 288 0428, carfax.co.za.

THE ORBIT All the biggest names in South African jazz can be found here, both on stage and in the audience. Booking is recommended. Live music every night and a bistro menu.QC2, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645, www.theorbit.co.za. Closed Mon. Open 11:30–02:00.

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Nightlife LIQUID GOLD Carrie Adams joined Norman Goodfellows, one of Joburg’s most prominent stores, in 1997. She fell in love with wine while in London in the 1980s, and since then has expanded her interest to the study and marketing of all things found behind a bar counter.

While we enjoy one of the world’s best climates, all we need is a few arctic, windswept days and you’ll see us dashing shamelessly for unattractive woolly tights, polonecks, windbreakers, beanies and boots. Comfort is to be found alongside glowing fires, rich oxtail hotpots, homemade soup and hot chocolate, and in liquid gold, the other best way to warm the heart.

Klipdrift Premium recently took top spot at the World’s Best Brandy awards, held in London. Our very same, home-grown ‘Klippies’ that, in South Africa, has for years shared space with Coca-Cola in a multitude of glasses. The judges of this prestigious award noted ‘aromas of milk chocolate, sponge cake and caramel with a gentle woodiness and a sweet, fruity finish’. Who would have thought? But then again, not many people know that the quality of South African Brandies is easily pitted against the best aged Cognacs out of France. We produce simply delicious brandy – mostly distilled from Chenin Blanc grapes.

The Klipdrift label owned by Distell is produced in the Western Cape town of Robertson. Klipdrift Export is a blended brandy best served with a mixer (something most other country’s brandy drinkers are unfamiliar with). Then there’s the Klipdrift Premium described above – rich layers of smoothly distilled fruit and caramels which I personally love to sip neat. And lastly, Klipdrift Gold, a handcrafted brandy that is a unique blend of superior pot still brandies aged for up to 21 years. As a result, it is beautifully full-bodied with layers of nut, peach, chocolate and toffee aromas and flavours.

The first Klipdrift was distilled in South Africa in 1938 but brandy’s origins go back as far as the 15th century.

France boasts two brandy-producing regions, Cognac and Armangac, but the whole of Europe lays claim to having distilled a brandy or an eau de vie at some time.

Brandy is produced from the distillation of wine and (usually) aged in old French oak barrels. These lend their own special flavours and aromas depending on the levels of toasting on the barrel and the length of time the brandy is left to quietly lie.

Klipdrift brandies are very affordable for the quality product you are buying and whether you are an age-old fan or a newcomer to this City of Gold – you can’t but enhance your experience with a glass of beautiful liquid Klipdrift gold.QNorman Goodfellows, 192 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 4814, www.ngf.co.za.

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Eighteen05 whisky bar, The Saxon Hotel

FINE TASTES ACE + PEARL Don’t mind the nondescript location, this chic little wine bar has probably the best selection of boutique wines in Joburg. Order French-inspired nibbles from the bar menu.

Wines change every few weeks and there are regular meet-the-maker events.QAlbans Sq, 357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 781 0455, www.acepearl.com.

Open 17:00–22:00, Fri 15:00–23:00, Sat 14:00–22:00.

Closed Sun–Tue. B ARQUE CHAMPAGNE CRESCENT NEW Sandton City’s super luxurious designer shopping arcade Diamond Walk is where you will find this high-end Champagne bar. Choose from exclusive French labels like PerrierJouët Belle Epoque or more wallet-friendly South African sparkling wines (MCC).QSandton City Diamond Walk, cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 326 8163, arque-africa.com. Open 09:00–22:00.

LEVEL FOUR An intimate and plush little Champagne bar inside the exclusive 54 on Bath hotel, ideal for a glass of the best with someone special. As there is only a handful of tables service is polished yet personalised, and there’s direct access to Rosebank Mall from the hotel for all your shopping needs.Q54 on Bath Boutique Hotel, 54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8500, www.54onbath.com.

EIGHTEEN05 NEW For unparalleled exclusivity and glamour, book a delectable three-course whisky tasting menu at the first Johnnie Walker whisky bar outside Scotland. Star of the show in the Johnnie Walker Blue room is the 1805, a limited edition bottle that was created in celebration of the iconic brand’s 200th anniversary. Surrounded by fine whiskies and accompanied by a whisky specialist, take a tasting journey that ends with the signature cocktail, The Gentleman’s Wager, whisky with a touch of pear liqueur.QThe Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa, 36 Saxon Road, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, www.saxon. co.za. Bookings require 48 hours notice. R2 000 per person. Minimum of four people, maximum six. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

The Union Bar, Illovo

COCKTAILS ANTI EST An upmarket menu of complex cocktail and craft beers plus a slick design aesthetic make for a more grown-up, but no less diverse, alternative to the fun student-orientated bars across the street. The weekend DJ sets can be extremely loud.QCnr Juta St and De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 74 187 2421. Open 12:00–02:00, Sat 11:00–02:00.

Closed Sun–Tue. B THE ARTISAN Minimalist hipster-haven attracting a young upwardlymobile crowd with a taste for cocktails and craft beers.

Choose from classic cocktails or house creations like the fruity Pink Panther and the Dr Pepper (vodka, amaretto and cherry syrup). Enjoy your drink’s arrival on the upstairs terrace.Q12 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 027 3707, www.theartisan.joburg/wp. Open 10:30–23:00, Fri 10:30–01:00, Sat 08:00–01:00, Sun 08:00–22:00. B THE UNION BAR POP-UP The Union Bar with Black Bottle blended Scotch whisky is a black-and-gold hideaway staffed by hipster versions of Jack Sparrow. The music is danceable house and electro and the extravagant menu is inspired by the Scottish Highlands and islands. Novelties include a cocktail presented in ‘a Scottish shoe’ and drinks brimming with sea salt- and peat-infused ‘Scottish mist’. Closes June 11.QCnr Oxford Rd and Chaplin St, Illovo, www.theunionbar.co.za. Open Wed-Sat 18:00– 02:00. Entrance R50 (book online for free entrance). B NEWS CAFÉ NEWTOWN NEW Urban chic in the middle of the revitalised Newtown Junction district. The bar spills out onto the glittering Newtown Junction piazza, while inside stylish contemporary design elements create a sophisticated lounge vibe. The menu is 42 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

extensive and cocktails feature heavily. The DJs are a big draw and people come here from far and wide to hear the latest South African deep house tracks.QB-4, Newtown Junction, cnr Gwigwi Mrwebi and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 10 091 0306, www.newscafe.co.za.

Open 07:00–24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00–02:00, Sun 08:00– 24:00. BLW LENIN’S VODKA BAR A golden mural of old Vlad looks out over a moodily lit bar stacked high with bottles of vodka from around the world.

Start your night Russia-style with a frozen shot from the bartenders’ weekly selection in the freezer before making your way through the cocktail list. The owners also have a wine bar two doors down at SoMa art gallery.QG-4, 300 Commissioner St (Maverick Corner), Maboneng, lenins. co.za. Open Wed– Sat 16:00–late, Sun 12:00–late. Closed Mon, Tue. B SIX COCKTAIL BAR The student’s cocktail bar of choice, Six is one of the longest running bars on Melville’s party street. Not the place to knock back dubious shooters until the staff have to scrape you off the floor, instead you’ll generally find a smartly dressed crowd sipping cocktails and popping their shoulders to the old school hip hop and R & B. Daily 2-for-1 happy hour on all cocktails from 12:00-19:00.QCnr 7th St and 3rd Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 8306. Open 12:00–02:00. B SOCIAL ON MAIN You may have to delve deep into the identikit malls and gated housing estates of the northern suburbs to get here, but the great cocktails, inviting deck and lively crowd make this a fun and stylish place to start the weekend.Q1 Posthouse St (off Main Rd), Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 7115, www.socialonmain.co.za. Open 12:00–24:00, Thu–Sat 12:00–02:00. BW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife BARS AND PUBS Turn to p. 38 to read about Joburg’s historic pubs, including Braamfontein’s very popular party pubs Kitchener’s and Great Dane.

THE BANNISTER BAR Maybe it’s the abundant palms or the whir of the ceiling fans and the huge windows opening right onto the city’s coolest downtown street, but there’s something almost tropical about this lively spot. Great for early evening drinks with a mature crowd while watching the colourfully dressed trendsetters of Braamfontein stroll by. The bar also often hosts live music and DJ events.QC-3, The Bannister Hotel, 9 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.bannisterhotel.co.za. Open 11:00–24:00. Fri, Sat 11:00–04:00.EW HELL’S KITCHEN At this American-styled whisky bar the walls are decorated with photos of 1970s rock heroes and a moody red neon sign sends out a racy message suggesting you ‘Be naked when I get home’. One of the biggest bars on Melville’s studenty party street, the place shares space with a hipster barbershop and a Mexican restaurant.QShop 4, 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 79 980 9591, www.hellskitchen.co.za.

Open 12:00–02:00, Sun 12:00–21:00. Closed Mon. B PARLIAMENT A rooftop gastropub with a carefully nurtured playlist and a serious focus on food. A balcony runs the length of the pub, offering sunset views over Sandton, and there’s a regularly changing selection of local craft beers and ciders, plus delicious gourmet platters to share. Not a late-night kind of place, it’s better suited to quiet evenings with good company.QCnr Victoria Ave and 11th St, Benmore, tel. +27 11 783 1467, www.parliamentrestaurant.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00, Sun 10:30–15:30. Closed Mon. B STANLEY BEER YARD Part of the converted 1930s industrial complex 44 Stanley, the beer yard occupies one of a number of pretty interlinked courtyards. If the weather is chilly out in the yard, head inside and nestle by the huge roaring log fire in the hunting lodge styled bar area with one of many local craft beers. Live music every Saturday from 14:00.Q44 Stanley, cnr Owl St and Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791. Open 15:00–23:00, Fri 12:00–23:00, Sat 11:30– 23:00, Sun 11:30–17:00. Closed Mon.EB THE TAPHOUSE Genial bar staff, classic pub fare and a little bar counter which opens straight onto the street make for an inviting and relaxed hangout on Parkhurst’s busy 4th Avenue. Describing itself as a ‘pint-sized pub’ the Taphouse is a somewhat calmer alternative to Parkhurst’s more infamous boozy hangouts and serves great bar snacks.QCnr 4th Ave and 6th St, tel. +27 11 026 8968, www.thetaphouse.co.za. Open 14:00– 23:00, Thu 14:00–01:00, Fri 12:00–01:00, Sat 11:00–01:00, Sun 11:00–21:00. Closed Mon. B facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Stanley Beer Yard, Milpark

THE TERRACE CIGAR AND WINE BAR From the Hyatt Regency’s courtyard oasis you’d never know you are just metres away from the hustle and bustle of central Rosebank. The noise of the city is completely muffled and instead birds tweet overhead and water trickles into infinity pools nestled under romantically lit palm trees.QHyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com.

Open 15:00–22:00. BL

CLUBBING House music rules in this city. Take your pop chart requests somewhere else. Joburg has a handful of dedicated clubs although often the most popular parties happen at popup venues – look out for parties such as The AM Factory (theamfactory.xyz), The Warm Up Jozi (www.facebook. com/TheWarmUpJozi), Hot On Top (twitter.com/Hot_On_ Top) and Toy Toy at & Club (see below). & CLUB A gritty inner-city location hides one of the city’s leading house and techno clubs. Inside the decor is minimalist with moody lighting and there are two bars, a dance floor and a courtyard chill space.QB-4, 39a Gwi Gwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, www.andclub.co.za. Open Thu–Sat 21:00–04:00.

BABYLON Strange location for a pumping gay club, but then there's not much you can't find at a Joburg mall. Dark lighting, pounding trance music and sexy barmen grinding on the bar top in nothing but their Y-fronts are order of the day.

Gays, straights and lesbians are all welcome and there’s a camp drag burger bar, Beefcakes, next door.QIllovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, www.babylonnightlife.com. Open 19:00–04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Cover charge from R30.

SANKAYI Upmarket lounge and club popular with West African expats.

The music is Naija and Congolese AfroBeat, the drinks pricey and the swanky dress code fearsome. Late on weekend nights is best for dancing.Q90 Degrees, cnr Kelvin Dr and Rivonia Rd, Rivonia, tel. +27 79 935 4116, www.sankayi. com. Open Wed, Sun 19:00–04:00, Thu 20:00–04:00, Fri– Sat 21:00–04:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Entrance from R100.

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Sightseeing

Constitution Hill ramparts

CONSTITUTION HILL This year marks the 20th anniversary of South Africa’s Constitution. The Constitution Hill complex, one of Joburg’s most important heritage sites, celebrates this remarkable document. The site is split into four: the Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the Constitutional Court. At the centre is an open plaza where the eternal Flame of Democracy burns. Here you will also find the entrance to the Constitutional Court, the Number 4 block, the ramparts, Women’s Gaol, the tours office and City Sightseeing bus stop. Stop in at the stylish The Hill Café for breakfast, a light lunch or coffee, or for a chance to appreciate your surroundings. Café open weekdays only 08:00–17:00.

THE OLD FORT The Old Fort at the centre of the Constitution Hill complex was built in 1893 to protect Joburg from the threat of British invasion and also to keep a watch over the miners flocking to the growing settlement. Following the end of the AngloBoer Wars the fort became a jail for white prisoners. One notable exception is Nelson Mandela who was briefly imprisoned here while awaiting trial in 1962. His cell now forms the Mandela Cell exhibition. Walk around the fort ramparts for a great view of the city centre skyscrapers and an enticing glimpse into the hustle and bustle of chaotic Hillbrow (we don’t advise a visit to Hillbrow without a tour guide).

WOMEN’S GAOL The Women’s Gaol was built in 1909 and held black and white female prisoners (and often their babies too) in separate sections. During apartheid many major political activists such as Albertina Sisulu, Ruth First and Winnie Madikizela-Mandela were imprisoned here in humiliating conditions. In the isolation cells you can read the personal testimonies of former prisoners who were subjected to months of solitary confinement within these walls. There is also a large temporary exhibition space hosting regular art exhibitions.

NUMBER 4 Wandering the bleak yards and dank cells of Number 4 prison block is a harrowing experience. It was used from 1904 until 1983 as a prison for ‘native men’ whose crimes ranged from political activism to murder, petty crime and, most commonly, infringing apartheid’s passbook laws. Prisoners were held in desperately overcrowded and unsanitary conditions and regularly starved, beaten and brutalised. Video testimonies 44 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

from former prisoners are projected onto the walls detailing the brutality of life in Number 4, and there are also extensive exhibitions on daily prison life and the different ways that the men found to cope with their imprisonment. At the far end of the prison, looked over by a watch tower and hemmed in by rusting barbed wire, are the isolation cells which are said to be haunted. There is also a good exhibition on Mahatma Gandhi, imprisoned here in 1906 for his political activism.

CONSTITUTIONAL COURT The Constitutional Court was opened in 2003 and built using bricks from the old awaiting-trial prison block. This bright, inviting and modern building has an excellent contemporary art collection which is alone worth a visit. The Court’s main function is to uphold the principles enshrined in South Africa’s hard-won constitution, making this the highest court in the country. All interested visitors are allowed to attend court hearings and visit the court chamber. Entrance is free.

TOURS Insightful guided tours of the different buildings within the complex start from R50 per person and leave every 30 minutes. The last tours leave one hour before closing and on Wednesday at 13:00. Themed tours such as the Walk with Madiba Tour or the Night Tour (minimum of 10 people) are available. A particularly unusual experience is the Time Travel Tour, an ‘interactive’ tour where visitors become prisoners and are even (briefly) locked into cells! Themed tours must be booked well in advance.

EVENTS AT CONSTITUTION HILL 28.05, 25.06, 27.08 MARKET@THE FORT A monthly market with an African focus. You can find food, books, fashion, art and crafts from across the continent as well as a beer and wine garden, live music and kids entertainment.

01.06 – 30.06 BASHA UHURU FESTIVAL Month-long programme of events commemorating the 40-year anniversary of the 1976 Soweto uprising.

ADDRESS D-1/2, cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel.+27 11 381 3100, www.constitutionhill.org.za.

Open 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-15:00. PARKING Access underground parking via Queens Rd or Joubert St. ADMISSION R55, kids R22, pensioners and students R27.50.

Price includes a guided tour. Free entrance to the Constitutional Court building and the complex’s ramparts. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing MUSEUMS APARTHEID MUSEUM Powerful displays and interactive elements bring to life the horrors of apartheid, from its petty cruelties to state repression and violence, telling the story of the struggle for democracy through everyday heroes and historical leaders.QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. +27 11 309 4700, www. apartheidmuseum.org. Open 09:00–17:00. Admission R75, students, pensioners R60, under-18s R60 (not recommended for children younger than 10). K DITSONG MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY Two historic hangars house a variety of thematic displays that cover key events in South African military history such as the Anglo-Zulu War and the Anglo-Boer Wars illustrated by an impressive range of military vehicles, uniforms and weaponry.Q20 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 5513, www.ditsong.org.za. Open 09:00–16:30. Admission R30, children R25, pensioners R15.

JAMES HALL MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT The largest transport museum in Africa, the impressive collection of historic vehicles includes vintage cars, motorbikes, horse-drawn wagons, fire engines, penny farthing bicycles and even steam-powered tractors.QPioneers’ Park, Rosettenville Rd, La Rochelle, www.jhmt.org.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–17:00 (closed between 12:00–13:00). Closed Mon. Entrance is free.

JOBURG HOLOCAUST & GENOCIDE CENTRE Due to open fully in July, the centre brings together the parallel historical narratives of the genocide committed by Nazi Germany in World War II Europe and the more recent genocide that occurred on African soil in Rwanda in 1994.

Q1 Duncombe Rd (cnr Jan Smuts Ave), Forest Town, tel. +27 11 640 3100, www.holocaust.org.za.

LILIESLEAF In the early 1960s this farm was the secret headquarters of the resistance movement and the place where the plans for an armed struggle against apartheid were formulated.

This engrossing museum provides an in-depth and interactive look at the lives of the anti-apartheid leaders who stayed here.Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, www.liliesleaf.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00. Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00. Admission R90, children 8–17 years old R40, under 7, free. Guided tours from R140. K LINDFIELD HOUSE This monument to Victorian and Edwardian life is presided over by Katherine Love who has spent a lifetime collecting objects from her favourite era. Be transported to a different time as Love guides you through 18 lavishly decorated rooms that conjure the everyday life of the Victorians.Q72 Richmond Ave, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 726 2932, http://lindfield.wix.com/museum. Open 10:00–17:00, by appointment only. Tours from R50, children R30. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Origins Centre, Braamfontein

ORIGINS CENTRE This must-see museum explores and celebrates the history of modern humans, tracing the emergence of humanity along an 80 000-year path to its African source. Exhibits include an extensive collection of rock art, paleoanthropological and archeological materials, including ancient tools and artefacts of spiritual significance to early humans.QB-2 Wits University campus, cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, www.origins.org.za.

Open 10:00–17:00. Admission R80, students R45, kids under 12 R40. Guided tour R200.

WORKERS’ MUSEUM Built in 1913 for male African migrant workers, until the early 1980s the small Newtown workers’ compound housed up to 300 men in appalling conditions. The building is now a museum detailing the struggles of South Africa’s migrant workers and their role in the country’s fight for democracy and freedom.QB-4, 52 Rahima Moosa St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 0600. Open 09:00–16:30.

Closed Mon. Admission free.

RUGBY MUSEUM The Ellis Park Rugby Museum is located at Emirates Airline Park stadium (still popularly known by its old name, Ellis Park), which holds a special place in South African sporting history. It was here that in 1995 Nelson Mandela took to the pitch wearing the Springbok jersey to present the Rugby World Cup trophy to the South African Springboks in what was a key symbolic moment of post-apartheid reconciliation, later made internationally famous in the Hollywood film Invictus.

Within the stadium you'll find a quirky museum (entrance via main gate) containing the biggest collection of Springbok memorabilia. Your host is rugby memorabilia collector James Dalton Sr, who also leads behind-the-scenes tours of the stadium.

Call ahead to book a museum visit and stadium tour.

QEmirates Airline Park, 44 Staib St, Doornfontein, www.ellispark.co.za, tel. +27 82 791 9992. Open 10:00–15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission R50, children R20.

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Sightseeing JOZI X Catering for superactive kids from 5–75, Jozi X offers loads of physical fun for fans of extreme adventures. There’s mountain boarding, a slackline park, big wheel trike drifting, a parkour gymnasium and the star attraction, an extreme wipeout course.QCnr Main Rd and Sloane St, Bryanston, tel. +27 82 456 2358, www.jozix.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission R100 Wed–Fri, R120 Sat, Sun.

Gold Reef City Theme Park, Ormonde

FAMILY FUN Joburg has plenty of fun museums and outdoor adventures to keep young minds stimulated and bodies active.

The City Sightseeing bus (see opposite) is a great option with stops at Gold Reef City and the James Hall Museum of Transport (see p. 45). Young children will be delighted with a trip to the National Children's Theatre or the People's Theatre, which specialise in children's productions (see p. 12), while for teenagers a walking tour of the city's graffiti murals with local guides Past Experiences (see opposite) is always a winner. Wits Art Museum offers free art tours on the third Saturday of each month at 12:00 (see p.

8). For child-friendly restaurants and cafés, look out for the T symbol in our Where to Eat pages.

ACROBRANCH Test your skills and your mettle by ziplining from tree to tree across a rugged wooded area of Melrose. There are strict safety procedures with children and adults well taken care of. Five courses to choose from plus the Big Zip Line.QMelrose St Ext, James and Ethel Gray Park, Melrose, tel. +27 78 438 7463, www.acrobranch.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00.

From R140, children R100.

GOLD REEF CITY THEME PARK The best amusement and theme park with rides and attractions for all ages. Extreme rides like the Anaconda, Jozi Express and Tower of Terror are for the brave, but there’s the option of a gentle train ride around the park with a soft-serve ice cream in hand. Take a trip underground to visit a disused mine shaft, try gold panning and tour a recreated mining village.

QCnr Northern Pkwy and Data Cres., Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 6800, www.goldreefcity.co.za. Open Wed–Sun 09:30– 17:00, daily during school holidays. From R145–R190.

JOHANNESBURG ZOO Pack a picnic and walk on the wild side on close to 54 hectares to view nearly 2000 animals. There’s an impressive collection of creatures including the Big 5, white lions and a gorilla, as well as a reptile house, bird gardens and a farmyard. If distance is an issue for the little ones there are buggies for hire.QJan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 2000, www.jhbzoo.org.za. Open 08:30–17:30.

Admission R75, children (3–12 years) R46, parking R10.

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MONTECASINO BIRD GARDENS With hundreds of fascinating birds species, from domestic to exotic, birds of prey plus a huge pelican and a sloth who gives slothfulness a good name this is a super attraction for all ages. Visit in time for the extraordinary Flight of Fantasy bird shows, on weekends and public holidays at 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00.QMontecasino Casino and Entertainment Centre, Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 511 1864, www.montecasino.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00.

Admission adults and children over 10, R70, Pensioners and children under 10, R39.

MAROPENG AND STERKFONTEIN CAVES Maropeng is the visitor’s centre for the Unesco-protected World Heritage site, the Cradle of Humankind. The towering structure is designed to resemble an ancient burial mound and a visit takes you on a journey spiralling into the earth, led by educational and interactive exhibitions that outline the history of the universe from the Big Bang to the present day, with a special focus on humankind’s evolution. A short drive away are the Sterkfontein Caves, where the remains of world-famous hominids Little Foot and Mrs Ples were discovered. Forty-five minute guided tours of the caves leave every hour and are suitable for children.QR400 off R563 Hekpoort Rd, Sterkfontein, tel. +27 14 577 9100, www.maropeng.co.za. Visitors’ Centre and caves open 09:00–17:00, last tour 16:00. Tickets from R160 for adults (Visitors’ Centre only), R215 (Maropeng and caves), R165 (caves only). A range of combo and family tickets are available.

SCI-BONO DISCOVERY CENTRE Get switched on at the science museum, where the exhibits engage and entertain growing minds and there’s something for all ages. Regular themed exhibitions and talks are part of the programme. Note that entrance to the temporary exhibition Body Worlds Vital costs extra (see p. 12 for details).QB4, Cnr Miriam Makeba and Helen Joseph Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 639 8400, www.sci-bono.co.za. Open 09:00– 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30–16:30. Admission R20, kids R10.

THE FUN COMPANY Tenpin bowling, bumper cars, pool tables and an awesome games room make this a fun entertainment zone for young kids. There is also a glow-in-the-dark mini-golf course and a 4D theatre, which includes bubbles, wind and water spray.

The Fun Company is surrounded by retail attractions, a movie house and a busy food court.QThe Zone @ Rosebank, Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 4099, www. thefuncompany.co.za. Open 09:00–24:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

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TOURS Taking a guided walk is the perfect way to experience unique aspects of local history and culture that might otherwise be hidden from view and is also a safe and easy way to encounter the streets of the city for the first time. We recommend these experienced tour guides. For tours of Soweto, see p. 49.

ALEXANDRA BICYCLE TOURS Jeff Mulaudzi, founder of Alexandra Bicycle Tours, meets visitors at the Marlboro Gautrain station (one stop from Sandton) and takes small groups on two- or four-hour cycling tours of the historic Joburg township of Alexandra, taking in historic sites and local ‘kasi’ food and culture.QTel. +27 71 279 3654, www.alexandratours.co.za. Tours R450 to R550.

AFRICAN SECRETS Specialising in culinary walks through the city’s diverse immigrant communities such as Cyrildene’s Chinatown, Indian Fordsburg and the inner-city Ethiopian district Little Addis.QTel. +27 84 624 0000, www.ancientsecrets. co.za. Tours from R100. Four-hour private tours R2 250 per group.

CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS Open-top hop-on, hop-off bus with 11 stops, including Braamfontein, Newtown and the Apartheid Museum. Also links to a daily Soweto minibus tour (see p. 49). On Saturdays and Sundays a shuttle bus links to the Carlton Centre stop taking visitors to the fashionable Maboneng district (shuttles run 09:30–14:00).QTel. 0861 733 287, www.citysightseeing.co.za/joburg. Bus leaves from Park Station every 30–40 mins. Last bus 15:40. Tickets from R160.

DLALA NJE Walking tours around the tough inner-city neighbourhoods of Hillbrow (Saturday) and Yeoville (Sunday), including a visit to the 52nd floor of the Ponte building for aweinspiring views of the city. The Yeoville tour includes a visit to the Yeoville ridge, which many religious communities use as a prayer site, drinks and food at local African restaurants and a chance to sample Cameroonian and Congolese cuisine. Tours from R280–R350.QTel. +27 72 397 2269, www.dlalanje.org. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

FREE WALKING TOURS NEW Leaving from the City Sightseeing bus office in Park Station, these free walking tours offer an easy introduction to the inner-city streets – just tip your guide at the end according to what you feel the tour was worth. There are two routes: the 1hr 45min City Centre route (daily at 10:30 and 13:00) and a shorter Braamfontein walk (1hr 30min daily at 15:30).

QTel. +27 73 919 3355, www.nielsentours.co.za.

PAST EXPERIENCES Offers a range of well-researched offbeat walking tours that take in the inner city, its communities, buildings, history and street art, as well as tailor-made walking and shopping tours. Famous for their excellent inner-city graffiti tours.QTel. +27 11 678 3905, www.pastexperiences.co.za. Weekend budget tours from R150. Private tours from R380.

THE ROVING BANTU NEW Sifiso Ntuli, aka the Roving Bantu, spent many years as an anti-apartheid activist in exile and has a unique perspective on contemporary South Africa and its path to democracy.

Ntuli’s tours start at his Brixton restaurant and take in the history, culture and traditions of less-known areas such as Fietas (a victim of apartheid’s forced removals), pan-African Yeoville, and parts of Soweto.Q125 Caroline St, Brixton, tel. +27 72 223 2648, www.facebook.com/rovingbantutours.

MAINSTREETWALKS Based in downtown Joburg’s trendy Maboneng precinct, this walking tour company is led by local young entrepreneur Bheki Dube, who also manages Maboneng’s innovative Curiocity Backpackers. These fresh inner-city tours encourage visitors to discover the city’s history, art, architecture and myriad communities on foot and include visits to major historical landmarks as well as exotic and unusual places such as Little Addis, Joburg’s Ethiopian Quarter and the historic KwaMaiMai traditional healers market. Offering a range of specialised tours including pub crawls, street art walks and bicycle tours. Tours range from two to four hours.QG4, 302 Fox St, Curiocity Backpackers, Maboneng, tel. +27 72 880 9583, www.mainstreetwalks.co.za. Tours from R200.

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Sightseeing: Soweto

Locrate Market, Orlando West

In 1976 the name Soweto (first used in 1963 to describe the South West townships created to keep black South Africans away from white Joburg) became globally synonymous with the anti-apartheid struggle as youth rose up to fight against inferior education. But the history of Soweto goes back a lot further to the 1930s when it housed black workers who had flocked to the gold fields since 1886 in search of work. Today Soweto is home to close to 1,5 million people and its neighbourhoods range from Kliptown’s informal shacklands to the mansions of Diepkloof Extension, also known as Diepkloof Expensive. A top tourist attraction, Soweto has worthwhile historical sites, a vibrant contemporary social scene and exciting new entrepreneurial initiatives.

GETTING THERE The seemingly endless identical streets and lack of consistent signs and numbers can be bewildering and may not be updated on your GPS, but if you do plan to drive yourself

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around Soweto the main tourist destinations are well signposted. To really make the most of a first time visit it is best to take a tour with a local guide. Vilakazi Street is the heart of tourist Soweto.

WHERE TO STAY LEBO’S SOWETO BACKPACKERS This 22-bed backpackers hostel has it all: comfy dorms, private rooms or space to pitch your tent, plus a kitchen for self-catering. Or enjoy a home-cooked meal before retreating to the lively beach-style bar.Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www. sowetobackpackers.com.

SOWETO HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE This upmarket hotel looks out over Kliptown’s historic square.

QWalter Sisulu Square, cnr Union Ave and Main Rd, Kliptown, tel. +27 11 527 7300, www.sowetohotel.co.za.

SOWETO MAP

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Sightseeing: Soweto TOURS EYITHA TOURS Mbali Zwane’s ‘Sophiatown to Soweto’ tour starts in Joburg’s Sophiatown, a once vibrant multi-racial community that was completely demolished in 1955 when the apartheid government declared it a ‘whites-only’ suburb.

The tour traces the lives of those forcibly evicted from Sophiatown to Meadowlands in Soweto, where residents share their personal stories of life before and after the forced removals. Tour also includes visits to Soweto’s main heritage landmarks.QCall Mbali on tel. +27 79 319 0578 to book, eyithatours.yolasite.com. Cost R500 per person.

LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS Run by local tourism pioneer Lebo Malepa, choose from twohour, half-day or full-day tours of Soweto by bike or tuk-tuk, taking in everything from struggle history, shebeens and church culture to street art, local delicacies and traditional African customs. Tours end at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers where you can kick back with a cold drink and delicious bunny chow in the park adjoining the backpackers. Tours can be customised.QTours leave from Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers, 10823A Pooe St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444 or +27 87 353 4440, www.sowetobicycletours.com.

SOWETOO Operated in collaboration with the City Sightseeing bus, the SoWeToo Soweto mini-bus tour leaves five times a day from Gold Reef City and takes visitors on a two-hour whistle-stop tour of the township with six stops including Vilakazi Street and Walter Sisulu Square.QGold Reef City, Cnr Northern Parkway and Data Cres, Ormonde, tel.

0861 73 32 87, www.citysightseeing.co.za/joburg. Buses leave every hour from 10.05–14.05.

TKD TOURS Charming local guide Ntokozo Dube (also known as TK) specialises in walking tours of Kliptown, a poor neighbourhood with a rich history. Tours are flexible and adapt to the interests of each group, whether it be the traditional medicine stalls, historic architecture, community gardens, graffiti or street food that catch your eye.QCall Ntokozo Dube +27 73 133 5234 or e-mail tktours.dube13@gmail. com to book.

WHERE TO EAT The pedestrianised Vilakazi Street is the official tourism heart of Soweto but the surrounding streets are a feast of local cuisine and on any tour you’ll spot roadside stalls selling everything from chicken feet to the famous Soweto kota (a hollowed-out loaf of bread filled with meat, chips, cheese and pickles). Breakfast is hard to come by so time your visit for lunch. On Vilakazi Street Sakhumzi is popular with tourists and locals and serves up a traditional food buffet, or try Vuyo’s opposite for contemporary African cuisine. For a gourmet bunny chow, head to Lebo’s outdoor restaurant and chill out in a hammock in the park. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

SOWETO 1976 On June 16, 1976, hundreds of school pupils in Soweto took to the streets to protest against the poor standard of education in black (bantu) schools and in particular new laws governing that all teaching be conducted in Afrikaans instead of English. What began as a peaceful protest ended in bloodshed when the apartheid police opened fire on the unarmed students. The ensuing riots echoed across the whole country. The police first turned on the protestors in Orlando West near Vilakazi Street and you’ll find many memorials to the youth of 1976 in this area. Nowadays June 16 is commemorated as the Youth Day public holiday.

HECTOR PIETERSON MEMORIAL & MUSEUM Startling pictures, personal testimonies, videos and informative texts provide an in-depth explanation of the causes and after-effects of the Soweto unrest of 1976.Q8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 11 536 0611. Open 10:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:00. Admission R30, children R5-R10.

REGINA MUNDI CHURCH Scores of students took refuge from the violence here, but were followed by the police who fired live ammunition into the church. The bullet holes can still be seen today.Q1149 Khumalo St, off Elias Motsoaledi Rd, Rockville, Soweto, tel. +27 11 986 2546, www.reginamundichurch.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00.

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Sightseeing: Soweto 5 MINS WITH KGOSI RAMPA Business analyst Kgosi Rampa, 28, founded Soweto’s hip Locrate Market, a monthly magnet for its local take on fashion, food, live music and culture. We asked why he ditched a suit and tie to focus on upping the cool quotient of brand Soweto.

‘Locrate is short for local creative, ranging from art, fashion and design, food to photography. The experience is real and it differentiates us from the rest as we want you to also experience Soweto while you visit, through the music, performances, and new initiatives that provoke conversation. It’s an opportunity for you to learn about us Sowetans from the horse’s mouth.

‘I grew up in Mzimhlophe in Orlando West, a suburb of Soweto. The place itself is beautiful and has the best people but, like any other township, life can be rough here. I have friends from Soweto who work in the creative sector and we went to other markets and thought wouldn’t it be cool to have our own space in Soweto. We wanted to showcase our creativity and lifestyle. Our idea was to attract mainly local creative people who have a craft to share and anyone keen to start a company who has not been able to find an accessible platform for their ideas, and people who care.

‘If you are visiting Soweto don’t leave without a visit to Fixin Diaries in Pimville (see opposite), the first bike customisation and social ride host in Soweto (and you wanna see Soweto through their eyes). Stop over in Mofolo to enjoy a plate of liver (you’ll find the best place on the corner of Machaba and Kinini Streets). It’s a miracle how many people they attract – they have all the characteristics of a disaster but they are the best in Soweto. For an educational tour with a twist (by bike or tuk-tuk) Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers (see p. 48) is the place to be and while you are at it you get to have lunch with the founder Lebo Malepa, one of the first entrepreneurs I’ve known. Then there’s NtoZinhle jewellery store in Orlando West (see opposite), a remarkable store that started from a shack and now attracts hundreds of customers every time they announce a sale. You should also visit Thesis Concept Store (see opposite) in Mofolo for their signature bucket hats and T-shirts. My favourite hangout in Soweto is at his and hers jam session in Mzimhlophe on the last Sunday of every month (10210 Phoka St, Mzimhlophe, and catch them on Instagram at @hisandhersjams).’ QLocrate Market, cnr Kudu and Moema Sts, Orlando West, tel. +27 73 521 9035, www.locratemarket.co.za. Open every first Sun of the month, from 10:00–17:00.

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SOWETO COOL Don’t visit Soweto looking only for evidence of the past – you’ll miss out on its exciting arts, music and fashion scene.

EYETHU LIFESTYLE CENTRE Local arts and culture hub hosting regular live music events, art exhibitions and the Dinaledi night market (second Thursday of the month, 18:00–21:00). There’s also the smart wine bar, restaurant and lounge Eyethu Cellar Door.

QCnr Machaba Dr and Ishabalala St, Mofolo, tel. +27 27 72 987 9886, www.eyethulifestyle.com. Open Wed–Sun 14:00–01:00. Closed Mon, Tue. FIXIN DIARIES Producers of custom made fixie bikes, Fixin Diaries are promoting cycling culture in Soweto and regularly organise social mass rides and learn-to-cycle events.Q475 Bokunku St, Pimville, tel. +27 84 851 8681, www.fixindiaries.co.za.

NTOZINHLE ACCESSORIES Sphelele Chikowi’s Soweto store is a magnet for women looking for unique and handmade African accessories.

Q7323 Phiri St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 058 8445, www.instagram.com/ ntozinhle_accessorize. Open 09:00– 18:00. Closed Mon. ORLANDO TOWERS These colourfully painted cooling towers are a magnet for thrill-seekers. Bungee, swing or SCAD Fall from the top before heading to the buzzing Chaf Pozi for lunch (see p. 27).

QCnr Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Sts, Orlando, tel. +27 71 674 4343, www.orlandotowers.co.za. Open Fri– Sun 10:00 until sunset or by prior arrangement.

SOWETO ART AND CRAFT FAIR Family-friendly market with great local arts, crafts, food and fashion. The free concerts on the open-air stage by well-known local bands are a popular attraction.QSoweto Theatre, cnr Bolani and Bolani Links Rds, Jabulani, tel. +27 11 930 7461, www.sowetotheatre.com. Open first Sat of the month from 12:00–21:00.

THESIS CONCEPT STORE This trailblazing store has been selling its own clothing brand since 2008 referencing Soweto street culture. Their slogan Tshirts and ‘bucket’ hats have become cult items.Q173 Mashsaba Dr, Mofolo, tel. +27 11 982 1182, thesissocialjamsession.blogspot.com. Open 10:30–19:30. Closed Mon. UBUNTU KRAAL KASI BEER GARDEN The home of Soweto Gold, Soweto’s very own craft beer.

Take a tour of the brewery before heading to the beer garden for beer and a tasty ‘gourmet township grill’.Q111846 Senokoanyana St, Orlando West Ext, tel. +27 74 738 0355, www.sowetogold.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00.

Closed Mon, Tue. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing: Kruger route KRUGER NATIONAL PARK Approximately five hours’ drive east of Joburg, the Kruger National Park is one of the best places to experience wildlife in the world. At 19 500km2 (360km north to south, 65km east to west) the park is as big as Slovenia, so it’s best to focus on exploring a limited area of the park and not drive long distances – 20km/h is the ideal pace for spotting wildlife anyway.

First-timers should consider spending at least two full days in the south of the park where sightings of big game are usually the best and there are plenty of rest camps to choose from. Lower Sabie is regarded as one of the most beautifully located, while Skukuza is the biggest and busiest. Alternatively, you may opt to stay just outside the park in the nearby town of Hazyview. If you have time it is also worth venturing to the middle section of the park for a day or two. Good rest camps here include Satara and the smaller Olifants camp, located on a high bluff overlooking the Olifants river.

You will need to book in advance if you want to stay within the park. Rest camps can be booked via the SANParks official website. Note that you must first register on the website to see availability and to book. Most rest camps have a small supermarket, petrol station, café and a restaurant and offer self-catering, catered and camping accommodation. Guided morning and night drives leave from every camp and from the main gates and are a highly recommended experience. The ‘daily conservation fee’ (payable at the gate) for foreigners to enter the park is R280 per person (R140 for under 12s). If you are staying for several days and plan to visit other SANParks, it can be better value to purchase a WildCard.Qwww.sanparks.org.

THE ROAD TO KRUGER Many visitors rush straight in and out of Kruger National Park. We recommend that you take your time and stop off along the way from Joburg – there’s even more to be enjoyed in this area than the hunt for the Big Five. If you do decide to drive from Joburg in one go, the best halfway rest stop is at Alzu Petroport on the N4, 35km from Middelburg, which has a café, steakhouse, a game park and the Country & Outdoor store, great for outdoor clothing and accessories (www.alzupetroport.co.za, open 24hrs). Here are some of our other recommended road trip stopovers.

Hornbill, Kruger National Park

Soulafa Mamlouk

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Walkersons Hotel & Spa, Dullstroom

DULLSTROOM The perfect overnight stop or weekend getaway some 270km east of Joburg. Wake up to an awe-inspiring view of the sky-filled valley at the Walkersons Hotel & Spa, the morning light reflecting off the tranquil trout dams, enclosed by the Steenkampsberg mountain range. The spacious lakeside suites and cottages are an ideal hideaway, complete with fireplaces and gorgeous views. Follow the path from your door to mountain trails, romantic picnic spots and excellent fly-fishing and bird watching opportunities within the 800 hectare Walkersons private estate. For dinner the restaurant serves fresh rainbow trout straight from one of the nearby lakes and dams. It’s almost law that you cannot leave Dullstroom without tasting the national treasure that is the home-baked trout pie at Milly’s Country Trout. This store and farm stall stocks a wide range of homemade preserves, pickles and sauces plus freshly frozen trout and trout pâté.

WALKERSONS HOTEL & SPA Walkersons Private Estate, Lydenburg road from Dullstroom, Mpumalanga www. walkersons.co.za, tel. +27 13 253 7000. Rates from R2 090 per person per night, dinner, bed and breakfast.

MILLY’S COUNTRY TROUT Critchley Common Centre, R540 Dullstroom, Mpumalanga, tel. +27 13 254 0310. Open 06:00–20:00, Sun 06:00–15:00.

THE ESCARPMENT From Dullstroom you can drive one of the most scenic roads in the country on your way to the Orpen Gate in the central section of the Kruger Park. Head north from Dullstroom in the direction of Pilgrim’s Rest (on the R533), an historic gold mining village that is now a quaint open-air museum and from there east to Graskop, which sits on the edge of the Escarpment – the point at which the Highveld (the high plateau region) meets the bushy plains of the Lowveld.

From here follow the R532 along the edge of the Escarpment stopping at the many viewpoints which line the Blyde River Canyon such as God’s Window and the majestic Three Rondavels. Then loop back around via the R36, R527 and R531 to enter the park at Orpen Gate. Note that the park gates close for overnight visitors between 17:30 and 18:00 and open in the morning from 05:30–06:00.

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Directory: French Joburg Eléonore Godfroy-Briggs has lived in New York, Sydney and London before settling in Joburg where she worked at the French Institute of SA. A yoga, culture and travel enthusiast, she publishes the French online digital daily lepetitjournal. com/johannesbourg. This is her little black book of Joburg à la Française.

BEAUTY Relax, get pampered and stay beautiful at Clarins Beauty Salon where you can choose from a menu of facial, massages and body treatments.Q51 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 440 1543, www.clarins.co.za/beauty-salon. Open Mon, Tue, Thur 08:00–18:00, Wed 08:00–19:00, Sat 08:00–17:00. Treatments from R600.

Out of the city, at Ukuthula Bush Spa located in a game reserve an hour’s drive from Joburg, you will be welcomed by French hostess Gaelle and her pampering Ndebele staff.QOff Moloto Rd, Leeuwkloof Valley, tel. +27 79 708 1409, www.ukuthulaspa.co.za. Packages from R1 005 per person.

CONNECTION Meet up with Frenchies. This monthly get together to share a meal or an experience welcomes Francophones and Francophiles. Contact lesfrenchiesjobourg@gmail.com.

Tune in to Voice of Wits, the University of the Witwatersrand’s radio station, which recently launched RendezVous Africa, a regular Francophone programme in French (88.1FM) that is broadcast on Tuesdays from 19:30–20:00.

CULTURE AND LANGUAGE Watch the best of European cinema at the annual European Film Festival in May. For French movie fans Le Movie Club screens a new film every last Thursday of the month at The Bioscope (see p. 14). Dance the day away with live music by French, local and African artists at the annual Fête de la Musique in Newtown in June (see p. 6). Enjoy street performances as well as food stalls and art and crafts.

GASTRONOMY Don’t miss aperitif time (also known as apéro). Taste a wide selection of French wines from Riverside Liquorstore (Riverside Shopping Centre, 317 Bryanston Dr, Sandton, tel. +27 11 023 0848), or connoisseurs can buy top-notch French wines through Great Domaines (www.greatdomaines.co.za).

Cheese with wine is a must. Buy your camembert or brie at Thrupps (Thrupps Illovo Centre, cnr Oxford Rd and Rudd Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0298, www.thrupps.co.za. Open 07:00–18:00, Sat–Sun 07:00–14:00), at the Bryanston Organic Market (see p. 56) or at Cheese Gourmet in Linden (see p. 29).

Get your breakfast croissant at French Corner (277 Main Road, Cramerview Shopping Centre, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 463 5808, www.frenchcornerbakery.co.za) and the best baguette in Joburg at Pâtisserie de Paris (8 Mackay Ave, Blairgowrie, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 0913, www.patisseriedeparis.co.za. Open 08:00–17:30, Sat, Sun 08:00–14:00. Closed Mon). Try the colourful and delightful macarons at Patachou Pâtisserie (Rivonia Village Centre, Rivonia Boulevard, Rivonia, tel. +27 71 268 0422, patachou.co.za), or browse food emporium Petits Fours in Northcliff and Bryanston (Heathway Shopping Centre, cnr Beyers Naude and Castle Hill Drive, tel. +27 11 431 0319, petitsfours.co.za). * For a full list of French restaurants, see iyp.me/74213f.

FASHION Visit Hyde Park Corner Shopping Centre (www.hydeparkcorner.co.za) to find the crème de la crème of French labels such as Longchamp, Lacoste, L’Occitane, Jacadi, Bensimon, Le Creuset and MaxMara. Or buy the famous bleu de chine from Muka Muka at Market on Main (see p. 56) and make your own collection. Find the hip French brand from Marseille, Le Temps des Cerises, at Frankie & Delilah at Dainfern Square (www.dainfernsquare.co.za).

LIVE IT! Stay in touch with the French Institute of South Africa whose events programme offers the best of French and Francophone artists (www.ifas.org.za). Quench your literary appetite at Dibuka, the French multimedia library at Alliance Française Johannesburg. You can also learn French at Alliance Française, the hub of French culture with cultural events and delicious coffee and treats from Pâtisserie de Paris, which runs the café.Q17 Lower Park Drive, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 1115. Open 09:30–12:30 and 14:00–18:00, Sat 09:30–13:30. Closed Sun. 52 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Vaudou Game, Fête de la Musique, June 18 (see p. 6)

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Shopping

Maxhosa by Laduma, Work Shop New Town

COOL AND QUIRKY STORES FIREHOUSE Supporting local enterprise this store stocks linen, ceramics, tableware, costume jewellery and homewares from essentials to luxury gifts and art pieces. You can expect charming service and great gifting advice plus impressive gift wrapping from the two sisters who own and run Firehouse. Support for sustainable living and fair trade is part of the ethos here.Q6 Dunkeld West Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 325 2225,www.fire-house.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun. HALSTED Fee Halsted set up Ardmore Farm in the late 1980s in rural Kwazulu-Natal, bringing together Western ceramics techniques with African art, working with talented young artists to create mesmerising pieces. Delicately hand-painted designs are inspired by the natural environment and local folkloric traditions. These pieces are now modern-day collectables. Halsted translates the intricate hand-painted ceramic motifs into fabrics and accessories and recently collaborated with French luxury brand Hermès.QHyde Square, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and North Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 5865, www.halsteddesign.com. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KIM SACKS GALLERY From tribal art to contemporary handmade objects that span rural and urban makers. Danish-trained ceramist Kim Sacks also stocks collectable ceramic pieces produced through artistic collaborations in her Moorish-styled gallery conveniently located along Parkwood’s Art Gallery Row.Q153 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 5804, www.kimsacks.com. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 10:00–17:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

LOVE JOZI This innovative T-shirt and design company mixes urban fashion with social consciousness, finding inspiration in the rise of Joburg as a world city. Buy the well-cut designer T-shirts and objects with bold graphic prints. One range includes a shopper emblazoned with what has become Joburg’s most familiar bird, the Ibis hadeda. The store shares space with top drawer fashion label Black Coffee. Find these labels at Work Shop New Town and 27 Boxes (see p.

54).Qwww.lovejozi.co.za.

IWASSHOT IN JOBURG :) ‘From the streets of Joburg to the streets of the world’ is the tagline of this innovative studio, an outlet for former street kids who receive photography training. iwasshot in joburg :) produces a range of products that include mounted canvases of their unique urban photographs, T-shirts, notebooks, cushions, photo frames and corporate gifts, selling them from their studio in Maboneng, a kiosk in Rosebank Mall and online.QG-4, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 922 5674, www.iwasshot.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–14:00.

MAXHOSA BY LADUMA From being featured in Italian Vogue and ‘discovered’ by Beyonce to winning ‘the most beautiful object in South Africa’ title at this year’s premier South African design gathering, this designer-knitwear brand is making waves globally. Founded in 2010 by Laduma Ngxokolo, the range is inspired by manhood rituals of the Xhosa people, and Ngxokolo uses patterns, beadwork and symbolism from this rich culture in his modern contemporary designs to create show-stopping clothing for him and her.QWork Shop New Town, see p. 54, www.maxhosa.co.za.

May – August 2016

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Shopping ORIENTAL PLAZA A-4, 38-60 Lilian Ngoyi St (formerly Bree St), Fordsburg, www.orientalplaza.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat 08:30–15:00. Closed Sun, and during Friday prayers 12:00–14:00. Open for select public holidays – see website for details.

NEWTOWN

Egg cups from Potterseed, available at Firehouse

With fine weather a feature of Joburg summers plus plenty to buy we recommend these shopping destinations where you can spend as much time indoors as outdoors. Here you can also enjoy a meal or a drink and some people-watching in a sheltered courtyard or open city square. Aside from the major shopping districts detailed below, other noteworthy places to visit include 27Boxes in Melville, a shipping container development housing more than 70 boutique stores geared towards local entrepreneurs selling everything from jewellery and homeware to fashion and gourmet foodstuffs (75 3rd Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9148, www.27boxes.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00. Sun 10:00–16:00.

Closed Mon). At 44 Stanley, a converted 1930s industrial complex with a series of pretty interlinked courtyards, you’ll find a charming collection of local fashion and design boutiques, including the beautiful clothing store Guillotine by Lisa Jaffe for well-cut women’s contemporary pieces, and Anatomy for homeware (44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. 27 11 482 4444, www.44stanley.co.za. Open 10:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–15:00, most stores closed Mon).

FORDSBURG While Indian Joburg is not restricted to Fordsburg, this neighbourhood is its distinct pulse. Rich in history, today the predominantly Muslim area is a collision of bold colour, spicy streets, enticing flavours and bargains galore. There are plenty of cheap and cheerful places to eat everything from north Indian curries and masala dosas to Turkish kebabs and traditional sweet meats.

In the centre of Fordsburg is the Oriental Plaza which opened in the 1970s in an attempt to compensate Indian shop owners whose businesses had been destroyed during the apartheid forced removals. What was once a white elephant is now a thriving bazaar with more than 350 stores.

Here you will find fabric shops, spice shops, fast fashion, shoes for him and her, a great luggage selection, kids’ toys, sari silks, haberdashery and budget-priced homewares. You can also shop for armfuls of bracelets, hand-stitched Indian cotton quilts, bejewelled slippers, a huge range of wedding ware and glamorous evening dresses – not forgetting the best coconut samoosas in town at the legendary World of Samoosas. The Plaza is also renowned as the place to find fair-priced jewellery.

54 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

The heritage district of Newtown, an area known as Joburg’s cultural precinct, is where you will find the landmark Market Theatre, MuseumAfrica, the Worker’s Museum, Sci-Bono Science Museum and the city’s most exciting new shopping development Work Shop New Town. Work Shop New Town brings together more than 30 South African clothing, jewellery, accessories and crafted goods labels in a voluminous heritage space. First constructed in 1911 to house the Potato Sheds of the city’s fresh produce market, the building sits between the Market Theatre and the Newtown Junction shopping mall, separated by a lively open square lined with enticing bars and restaurants such as The Potato Shed (see p. 26) and News Café (see p. 42). The square also plays host to live music every Friday and Sunday afternoon, while inside Newtown Junction mall there is a Ster-Kinekor cinema.

Among the brands to look out for at Work Shop New Town are Wolf & Maiden for hand-stitched leather handbags and accessories, Pichulik for statement neckpieces made from rope, and Maria McCloy Accessories for shoes for him and her in vibrant African prints. We also love Vernac’s accessories made from woven plastic China shopping bags, Famke’s delicate silver and brass jewellery, thrift store treasure-finder Dr Pachanga and Kat Van Duinen’s elegant clothing range. With its own craft beer and dim sum bar Town, late-night shopping events and occasional DJ sets. Work Shop New Town is also a cool place to hang out.

NEWTOWN JUNCTION B-4, Cnr Miriam Makeba and Carr Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 0105, newtownjunction. com. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–19:00, Sun 09:00–15:00.

WORK SHOP NEW TOWN B-4, 100 Carr St, Newtown (secure parking at Newtown Junction), www.workshopnewtown.com. Open 10:00–18:00, Sat 10:00–19:00, Sun 10:00–15:00.

ROSEBANK This popular shopping district with its three interlinked malls has hundreds of stores, as well as a wide range of dining options and the best African craft market in the city (see p. 56). At the heart of the district is Rosebank Mall with an impressive array of local and international high street brands, including Forever New, River Island, Cotton On and YDE, plus a gym and arthouse Cinema Nouveau.

Stop in at Exclusive Books for the best flat whites and to stock up on all the latest titles. For camping and safari essentials visit Cape Union Mart, pick up a comfy pair of South African leather sandals at Tsonga, pure South African mohair shawls and eye-catching jewellery pieces crafted with ostrich eggs at Indegenius, and buy unique johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Prada, Sandton City Diamond Walk

Joburg postcards and notebooks at Iwasshot in Joburg :) The mall also has two large chemists, two supermarkets, two department stores, hair and beauty salons, a blow-dry bar and dozens of local and international high street fashion outlets.

The Rosebank Art & Craft Market adjoining the mall is a must-visit for all your souvenir needs and on Sundays visit the rooftop Rosebank Sunday Market (see p. 57) for delicious food, vintage fashion, antique bric-a-brac and art and crafts. Pedestrianised The Zone@Rosebank and The Firs, also part of the Rosebank shopping precinct, have a wide choice of popular restaurant and fast food chains with streetside or courtyard seating such as Rocomamas burgers (see p. 27), Tashas and local coffee chain Motherland Coffee Company. Upstairs at the Zone you’ll find a fast food court, Ster-Kinekor cinema and The Fun Company, a fun place to take the kids tenpin bowling (see p. 46).

ROSEBANK MALL Entrances on Baker St, Bath Ave and Craddock Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 5530, www.rosebankmall.co.za. Open from 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–17:00.

SANDTON The Sandton business district is often dubbed ‘Africa’s richest square mile’ and in addition to being the country’s financial capital, central Sandton is a shopping mecca of southern Africa. There are literally hundreds of shops spread through three interlinked malls: Sandton City, Nelson Mandela Square and Legacy Corner. At the centre of it all is the massive Sandton City mall home to the flagship stores of all the major local and international fashion, sports and design retailers, plus a cinema multiplex, restaurants, supermarkets, banks, food court, gift shops and more.

Once you figure your way around you’ll find everything you could possibly need under one roof.

The latest edition to Sandton City is the bling-filled Diamond Walk, the place to find global luxury household names like Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton, and Cartier. This glitzy arcade links the Sandton City mall to the Sandton Sun Hotel, and via a skywalk to the Sandton Convention Centre. A passageway joins Sandton City to the Nelson Mandela Square piazza with its many restaurants and bars, and the Sandton Gautrain 56 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Station is around the corner. For breakfast, lunch or dinner or just a snack and a coffee on the go you are spoiled for choice. In addition to Sandton City’s large food court, you’ll find deli-style eateries such as Deli One and the Woolworths Café, places to indulge your sweet tooth such as the decadent Belle’s Patisserie, Häagen-Dazs or Walnut Grove and popular local chain restaurants Nandos, Doppio Zero and JB’s Corner. Nelson Mandela Square is the place to eat al fresco while watching the steady stream of tourists taking selfies with the giant statue of Madiba. Favourite restaurants include The Big Mouth for some of the best sushi in the city and the justifiably popular Tashas (p. 23), an elegant bistro with a Mediterranean-inspired menu.

NELSON MANDELA SQUARE Entrance on Maude and West Sts, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 217 6001, www. nelsonmandelasquare.co.za. Open 09:00–19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 10:00–17:00.

SANDTON CITY Cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 217 6000, www.sandtoncity.com. Open 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00– 17:00. Parking entrances on 5th St, Maude St and Sandton Dr. See Sandton map on p. 66 for details.

MARKETS Craft and food markets are popular hangouts and a great way to mingle among locals. On Saturday mornings Braamfontein is the place to be, jostling hipsters for space in the queues for gourmet street food at the Neighbourhoods Market (C-3, 73 Juta St, tel. +27 11 403 0413, www.neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/johannesburg, Sat 09:00–15:00, night market first Thu of the month 17:00–22:00) and on Sundays the atmosphere at Maboneng’s Market on Main with its food, fashion and design stalls, craft brewery and rooftop salsa party, is addictive (G-4, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 868 1335. www.marketonmain. co.za, Sun 10:00–15:00, night market last Thu of the month 19:00–23:00). For the biggest selection of good quality African crafts, fashion, food and souvenirs visit one of these markets: BRYANSTON ORGANIC & NATURAL MARKET This is Joburg’s original outdoor market, in existence for close on 40 years and still offering a superb range of organic goods and products in a relaxed environment. From African arts and crafts and health and wellness products to preservative-free and colourant-free home-baked goods, plus authentic Panama hats, there’s plenty of dream catchers and hammocks, and refreshingly not a hipster in sight.

Q40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, www. bryanstonorganicmarket.co.za. Open Thu, Sat and public holidays 09:00–15:00.

ROSEBANK ART & CRAFT MARKET Probably Joburg’s largest and most well-known craft market, this is a one-stop spot for all your African souvenir needs. With traders from across the continent you can find the widest range of hand-crafted items such as johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

beaded sculptures, paintings, West African masks, local fabrics, those quintessential Big Five figurines, handbags, leatherware and brightly coloured Afro-chic fashion. ‘This is Africa. We Bargain’ is the market’s abiding motto.QRosebank Mall, Craddock Ave (entrance next to Europa Café), Rosebank, tel. +27 11 568 0850, www.artandcraftmarket.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 09:00–17:00.

tiques spread over a few floors of an eight-storey city block.

The books are heaped along walls, staircases, and arranged atop any surface that will hold them, and if they have what you ask for, the owners will locate it, as if by some miracle.QF-4, CTP House, 244 Commissioner St, City Centre, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 334 6556. www.antiqbook.com/ bookdealer.phtml?o=collectorstreasury. Open 09:00– 17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Closed Sun.

ROSEBANK SUNDAY MARKET There are lots of treasures waiting to be found at this popular rooftop market. The massive covered space accommodates talented crafters working with myriad materials, as well as local fashion stalls, second-hand books, antique bric-a-brac, artworks and design pieces, farmhouse produce and vintage clothing. Relax with a drink from the rooftop bar while you listen to live music and enjoy a delicious lunch from the many food stalls – Andy Choo’s spicy Malaysian dishes are among our favourites.QRosebank Mall (Level 4), cnr Bath and Baker Sts, Rosebank, www. rosebanksundaymarket.co.za. Open Sun 09:00–16:00.

LOVE BOOKS The fine selection at this independent bookstore exhibits thoughtful and considered choices, books people are or should be talking about, and a particularly good selection of South African titles. With chairs for reading, and place for browsing Love Books is a welcoming space in which to while a way a few hours. Next door is the Service Station café.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7408, www.lovebooks.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–14:00.

BOOKSHOPS COLLECTORS TREASURY For book browsers it doesn’t get much better than this.

Founded in 1974, Collectors Treasury stocks a dizzying array of second-hand books, maps, collectibles, engravings, prints, porcelain, fine china, vinyl records and small anfacebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

FOURTHWALL BOOKS A small bookstore and independent publisher, this is the place to buy beautifully crafted limited edition books on a fascinating array of South African subjects, many of them concentrated on aspects of Joburg’s history, art and culture.

The store hosts regular launches and poetry events.QC-2, Norvic House, Reserve St (cnr De Korte and Melle Sts), Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 3009, www.fourthwallbooks.com. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun–Tue. May – August 2016

57

Sport & Outdoors

Glendower golf course, Edenvale

Joburg is a golfers’ paradise with more golf courses in one city than almost anywhere else in the world. Just within a 10km radius of central Sandton there are 15 courses. Factor in year-round sunshine and highly competitive pricing and it’s no wonder this town has a major share of golfing fanatics. To avoid the heat try and tee-off as early as possible. You may also want to rent a trolley or a golf cart from the pro shop. In South Africa the usual golfing etiquette rules apply – avoid slow play, maintain the course, keep your temper in check and be respectful on the greens. If you choose to take a caddy bear in mind that you are expected to tip at least 50%-100% of the caddy fee. Local quirks include the ‘halfway house’, a refreshment stop at the ninth hole turn, where players stop for a drink or breakfast – 10 minutes is the expected stop time here. Most courses also have special tees for ladies and for seniors. Don’t be ashamed to use these! It is acceptable to play in smart golfing shorts or skirts, although a collared shirt is always required.

18-HOLE COURSES Many of Joburg’s golf courses are more than 100 years old, some even date right back to the discovery of gold.

The oldest club in the city is the Royal Johannesburg & Kensington club which opened in 1890 and moved to its current location in 1908. The club has two courses. The impressive East Course, home to the Joburg Open, is widely considered to be one of the best in the city. Observatory Golf Club, opened in 1912, is the oldest club still operating

BOOKING A TEE TIME Generally courses are quieter during the week. It is worth calling clubs on a Thursday to enquire about weekend tee times as this is usually when they release extra times for non-members. Courses tend to be open from just after 06:00 with the last tee times of the day in the early afternoon. For last minute bookings try www.lastminutegolf.co.za who also tend to have a lot of promotions.To enjoy a social round of golf with new people register at 4ballgolf.com, which matches you up with other golfers who play at the same pace and ability.

58 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

from its original grounds. Set amid the rocky eastern ridges of the city, the views are marvellous, although there are some steep holes to tackle. Parkview Golf Club celebrates its centenary this year. Opened in July 1916 when the area surrounding it was still largely farmland, the course now lies in the middle of some of Joburg’s greenest suburbs and many of the nearby streets are named for famous courses such as Muirfield and Gleneagles. A soothing escape in the middle of the city, the clubhouse terrace is a relaxing place to unwind.

Other notable historic local clubs include Glendower in eastern Joburg, widely praised as one of the best courses in the province. A long, highly challenging and beautifully landscaped course, this is the home of the SA Open. The Houghton Golf Club, opened in 1926, is an historic club with a stylish modern clubhouse and facilities and is the only inner-city Jack Nicklaus Signature course in the world.

The Wanderers Golf Club opened in 1939 and is often touted as ‘Joburg’s friendliest club’. The course skirts the famous Wanderers cricket ground which opened here in the 1950s after relocating from the city centre to make way for the Park Station terminus.

ROYAL JOHANNESBURG & KENSINGTON 1 Fairway Ave, Linksfield North, tel. +27 11 640 3021, www.royaljk.za.com.

Sat members only. R600 west course, R900 east course.

OBSERVATORY GOLF CLUB 5 Steyn St, Observatory, tel. +27 11 648 9579, observatorygolfclub.co.za. R105–R320.

PARKVIEW GOLF CLUB Cnr Wicklow and Emmarentia Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 5400, www.parkviewgolf.co.za.

Members only Mon and Sat morning. R430–R480.

GLENDOWER 20 Marais Rd, Dowerglen Ext 2, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 453 1013, www.glendower.co.za. Closed Mon. Sat members only. R700.

HOUGHTON GOLF CLUB 2nd Ave, Houghton, tel. +27 11 728 7337, houghton.clubhouseonline-e3.com. Members only Sat, Sun. R360.

WANDERERS GOLF CLUB Cnr Corlett Dr and Rudd Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 3311, www.wanderersgolfclub.com.

Closed Mon. Thu members only. R200–R500.

MASHIE COURSES Beginners, kids or those wanting to improve their short game, should try one of these par-3 nine-hole courses (mashie courses). To work on the various different elements of your game visit the Momentum World of Golf, ‘a golfing theme park’ with a variety of practice bunkers, greens, fairways and island holes as well as a mashie course.

CREEK 9, RANDPARK CLUB Cnr Anton van Wouw St and Preller Dr, Roosevelt Park, Randburg, tel. +11 215 8600, www. randpark.co.za. Open 06:00–17:00. R65–R125.

HUDDLE PARK Club St, Linksfield, tel. +27 11 640 4456, www.huddlepark.com. R50–R60.

MOMENTUM WORLD OF GOLF Cnr Woodmead and Maxwell Drs, Woodmead, tel. +27 11 545 8600, www.worldofgolf.co.za. Open 07:00–20:00, Fri 12:00–20:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 07:00–19:00. From R159. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sport & Outdoors PARKS AND NATURE In this most treed of cities there is no shortage of scenic green spaces for picnics and long walks and you’ll also find a number of well-maintained reserves with good hiking trails in close proximity to the city. Do not visit parks after dark and avoid the paths less travelled.

EMMARENTIA DAM AND JOHANNESBURG BOTANICAL GARDENS This sprawling green oasis has extensive parkland for enjoying long walks with views of the distant ridges and wide lawns that slope down towards the dam, ideal for afternoon picnics. The pretty terraced rose gardens with its fountains are a popular spot for weekend weddings. Look out for the 90-minute Vinyasa Flow yoga session every Sunday at 09:30 (winter) led by Yoga Works (www.yogaworks. co.za).QOlifants Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 782 7064.

DELTA PARK Delta Park is one of the biggest green lungs in the city with stretches of grassland and woodland. The park houses an environmental centre with a wide range of fascinating wildlife-related courses for adults and children. Unique to Delta Park is a sensory trail for the sight-impaired, and birdviewing hides. The south-east corner has the best picnic spots.QCnr Rd No. 3 and Craighall Rd, Victory Park, tel. +27 11 888 4831, www.deltaenviro.org.za.

MELVILLE KOPPIES A nature reserve and heritage site, the Melville Koppies (koppie means small hill in Afrikaans) boast archaeological remains of Stone Age and Iron Age settlements, and great views over the city. The best way to visit is on one of the Sunday morning three-hour guided hikes (check the website for hiking schedules).QCnr Judith and Orange Rds, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 4797, www.mk.org.za. Hike costs R50, R20 for kids.

MODDERFONTEIN RESERVE This privately owned reserve is crisscrossed by hiking and cycling trails that wind their way past numerous dams and parkland filled with indigenous flora and populated by a variety of birdlife. There are guided nature walks every Tuesday and on alternate Saturdays and Sundays at 08:30 (check the website for the schedule). You’ll find braai stands next to the Fish Eagle dam.QArden Road (off Ardeer Road), Modderfontein , tel. +27 79 519 1589, www.modderfonteinreserve.co.za. Admission R30, children R15.

MUSHROOM FARM PARK This small park with its playground, hilly landscaped lawns and an outdoor gym is one of precious few green spaces to be found within central Sandton’s concrete sprawl. The park is also known as Hyundai Sky Park, as a giant Hyundai branded hot air balloon rises 120m above the space, from where you can enjoy impressive views of Sandton (weather permitting).QDaisy St, off Rivonia Rd (opposite Radisson Blu Hotel), Sandton, tel. +27 11 784 6881. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Melville Koppies

Sudhir Misra

WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL GARDENS One of Gauteng’s most beautiful and well-maintained parks, head here for stunning flora and fauna, excellent birdwatching (look out for the black Verreaux’s eagles), waterfalls, manicured lawns and other natural delights. There are various hiking routes, including a 3.5km nature trail which takes you to the top of the waterfall. A perfect place to relax just 30 minutes drive from the city.QMalcolm Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, www.sanbi.org/gardens/walter-sisulu. Entrance R35, students and pensioners R25, scholars R12. Kids under 6 free.

ZOO LAKE A premier green space where you can feed the ducks, hire a rowing boat, set up a picnic, or eat at the child-friendly African themed restaurant Moyo. Popular with walkers and runners, and just about everyone else. At weekends the park swells with families and big groups with their barbecues and picnic tables in tow intent on a good time and the city battles to encourage these visitors to pick up their trash before they leave.QPrince of Wales Dr, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 1131.

RUNNING CLUBS The biggest dangers for runners are cars and uncovered manholes, and if you are unfamiliar with the streets it can be best to hit the road with a group. Running culture is big in Joburg and there are plenty of clubs with weekly time trials where you don’t need to be a member to join.

These include Pirates Sports Club (Thu at 17:45 and Sun at 07:00, 10km or 21km), Wanderers Club (Thu at 17:45, 5km or 8km) and Nike Running Club (Tue at 17:30/18:00, 4km, 6km or 8km). There are also 5km Park Run events every Sat at 08:00 in parks around the city. See the Park Run website (parkrun.co.za) for the full list.

PIRATES SPORTS CLUB 25 Braeside St, Greenside, tel. +27 11 646 5025, www.piratesclub.co.za.

WANDERERS CLUB 21 North St, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 5010, www.thewanderersclub.co.za.

NIKE RUNNING CLUB Leaves from the Nike store at the Zone@Rosebank. Register online to join at goo.gl/ vORHqe. May – August 2016

59

Joburg Basics

Ponte building and Hillbrow tower, City Centre Anton Bosman

24-HOUR CITY Joburg’s relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close before 22:00. Most galleries and museums are closed on Mondays, along with many restaurants. The city’s nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most

JOBURG: BASIC FACTS NICKNAMES Egoli, Jozi, Joburg, Joey’s, City of Gold ECONOMIC CLOUT The country’s financial heart and the economic powerhouse of sub-Saharan Africa.

Home to the headquarters of more than 70 per cent of South African companies STOCK EXCHANGE The Johannesburg Stock Exchange in Sandton is the largest on the continent and among the 20 biggest bourses in the world POPULATION More than four million people live in and around the city, and 42 per cent are younger than 24 DIVERSITY The 2011 census shows that 76.4 per cent of Joburg’s population are black African, 12.3 per cent are white people, 5.6 per cent are coloured people, and 4.9 per cent are Indian/Asian. Of those 19.2 per cent have some form of higher education, and 2.9 per cent of those aged 20 and older have no form of schooling INLAND PORT Has one of the largest inland ports in the world – the City Deep freight terminal GREEN CITY Joburg has one of the world’s largest urban forests, with around six million trees ELEVATION More than 1 700m above sea level, so water boils at 96 °Celsius 60 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like airtime for your cell phone. Melville, Greenside and Braamfontein are traditionally late-night haunts. Staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Traffic swells soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs in the early morning.

ALCOHOL South Africa is a paradise for wine lovers. There are countless wine producers and brands, and the bottles you will find in stores and supermarkets are more than affordable, especially compared with European prices. Wine can be bought in supermarkets and ‘bottle stores’, and local and imported beers and spirits only at bottle stores. Most restaurants allow you to bring your own wine for a corkage fee. A wide variety of local beers is produced by South African Breweries, and there is an emerging craft-beer industry.

Different provinces have different rules regulating the availability of alcohol.

BANKING AND MONEY BANKING South Africa has a modern and sophisticated banking system. Foreign currency can be exchanged at most retail banks (found in most shopping centres) and bureaux de change. If you need foreign currency, check the bank’s requirements (documentation and account status) first since foreign notes are not readily available. ATMs can be found everywhere. Major credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted) can be used at most retail and hospitality establishments. The four major retail banks are Absa (www.absa.co.za), FNB – First National Bank (www.fnb.co.za), Nedbank (www.nedbank.co.za) and Standard Bank (www.standardbank.co.za). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg Basics CURRENCY The unit of currency is the rand (ZAR), known informally as the ‘randela’ because notes bear the image of former president Nelson Mandela. There are 100c in each rand. Banknotes are issued in denominations of R200, R100, R50, R20 and R10. Coins come in R5, R2, R1, 50c, 20c, 10c and 5c units.

VALUE-ADDED TAX (VAT) A tax of 14% is levied on all consumer goods and services, except some basic foodstuffs. Price tags generally include Vat unless this amount is separately stated. Non-resident foreign passport holders can claim a Vat refund – two refund offices are located in the international departures hall of O.R. Tambo International Airport. Present your purchases and tax invoices for inspection. See www.taxrefunds.co.za for full details.

CLIMATE Joburg has sunny days and, less frequently, not-so-sunny days. The seasons mostly blend into each other, with summer from November to March and milder temperatures from April to May. Winter starts in June and lasts until August.

Spring (September and October) is brief, and you’ll know it by the distinctive purple haze that the blooming jacaranda trees cast across the city’s northern suburbs. Summer temperatures average 25 °C (77 °F), with winter days dropping to a low of around 15 °C (59 °F). Winter nights can dip to 4 °C (39 °F). Summer is when it rains and Joburg has its trademark afternoon thundershowers, with spectacular lightning displays and the occasional rainbow to match.

COMMUNICATION The local dialling code for landline numbers is 011. From outside the country or from your cell phone it is +27 11.

Numbers starting with 086 can only be dialled locally. For directory information, dial 1023 from a landline. Joburgers love their cellphones, and kids as young as 10 have their own phones.

CELL PHONE NETWORKS There are four cell phone networks: Vodacom (www.vodacom.co.za), MTN (www.mtn. co.za), Cell C (www.cellc.co.za) and Telkom Mobile (www. telkommobile.co.za). Website My Broadband offers price comparisons on call and data packages (www.mybroadband. co.za). All networks offer pay-as-you-go as well as contract call and data options. They have stores in all major shopping centres, and airtime can be purchased at supermarkets, petrol stations and online.

RICA By law all mobile SIM cards must be registered. You will need your passport and proof of the address where you are staying to get a local SIM. VODACOM RENTAPHONE Rent SIM cards, phones, GPS devices, routers, USB modems and satellite phones. Advanced bookings can be made via e-mail.QInternational Arrivals Hall, O.R. Tambo International Airport, reservations@cellucity.co.za, tel. +27 11 394 8834. Open 06:00–22:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

LOCAL PRICES Big Mac R28 Cappuccino R20–R25 Cinema ticket R55 Daily newspaper R4–R15 Litre of petrol R11.50 Loaf of bread R8–R11 Local beer (in a bar) R23–R26

NEED TO KNOW DISABLED TRAVEL By law all public buildings must be accessible to the disabled, and many hotels, restaurants, museums and national parks are wheelchair-friendly.

See www.southafrica.info/travel/advice/disabled.htm.

ELECTRICITY Electricity is supplied at 220 volts and 50 hertz throughout South Africa. Valuable electronics should be used with a surge protector, available at large supermarkets, where you can also find converters for the bulky three-pronged plugs used locally. South Africa’s power supplier, Eskom, has been struggling to meet demand and occasionally implements ‘load-shedding’ (planned power cuts to release pressure on the grid).

Find the load-shedding schedule at citypower.co.za.

POLITICS South Africa is ruled by the African National Congress (ANC). The country has a multiparty political system and more than 10 political parties in Parliament.

The current president is Jacob Zuma.

RELIGION There is a great deal of religious tolerance and diversity in South Africa. Joburg has many places of worship and spiritual sites. (See iyp.me/70562ch for addresses and contact numbers of various religious congregations.)

SMOKING South Africa was way ahead of most countries in banning smoking in public places. Smoking in cars in the presence of children under the age of 12 is forbidden, while children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and purchasing cigarettes.

TIME ZONE South Africa is UTC/GMT +2 hours, and the entire country is in the same time zone. Some applications pick this up as ‘Harare time’. There is no daylight saving time.

TOURISM INFORMATION Useful contacts include Joburg Tourism (www.joburgtourism.com) and Gauteng Tourism (www.gauteng.net).

WATER The tap water throughout the city, provided by Johannesburg Water, is among the cleanest, safest and healthiest in the world. It also tastes good.

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Joburg Basics MEDICAL CARE Joburg has many world-class private hospitals that offer specialist care, but they can be pricey. Take your passport or identity document and any medical insurance information with you when you visit. The casualty departments/ emergency rooms at private hospitals are open around the clock.

EMERGENCY DOCTOR AND DENTIST This practice offers emergency medical and dental care.

Doctor tel. +27 82 457 0176, dentist tel. +27 82 443 5366.

It also offers home, hotel and business visits.Q7 Long Ave, Glenhazel, tel. +27 11 440 5325, www.emergencydoctoranddentist.co.za. Open 24/7.

MAYS CHEMIST A late-night pharmacy with a delivery service until 17:00 within a 10km radius. Deliveries charged at R10.Q11 Main Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8014. Open Mon–Sat 08:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–14:00, 17:00–21:00.

TRAVEL TIPS Safety in any major city is about common sense, information and awareness, and Joburg is no exception.

Although every effort is made to keep visitors safe, no city is crime-free. Be aware of your surroundings, keep your valuables close by and ask locals for advice.

When exploring the city use registered and accredited tour guides. See page 47 for our recommendations, and www.joburgtourism.com (tel. +27 11 703 5327) for tips and safety information.

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Various services aim to ensure the safety of Joburg’s visitors and more than 4.6 million residents. These include: Johannesburg Metro Police Department (JMPD), the South African Police Service (SAPS) and the Gauteng Traffic Police.

When in uniform, officers wear service and rank insignia as well as a name badge. You have the right to ask officers to identify themselves with their identity cards whenever they approach you.

POLICE EMERGENCY Dial 10111 to contact a national call centre that can assign a patrol vehicle to attend to a crime incident FIRE AND AMBULANCE Dial 10177 CELLPHONE NETWORKS Dial 112 to be connected to a 24-hour emergency-service operator. This is a free call MEDICAL Dial 082 911 to connect to Netcare 911’s 24hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24. Both are private emergency medical services 62 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

SWIFT CARE CLINIC Walk-in private clinic for minor injuries and illnesses.QNetcare Rosebank Hospital, Basement Level, 14 Sturdee Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 328 0511, www.swiftcareclinic.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00. Weekends and public holidays 09:00–16:00.

NETCARE MILPARK HOSPITAL A level-1 trauma centre that caters for life-threatening medical emergencies.Q9 Guild Rd, Parktown West, tel. +27 11 480 5600, www.netcare.co.za. Open 24/7.

THE SMILE FACTORY For after-hours dental emergencies call +27 84 577 9786.

QSalveo Health and Wellness Centre, cnr William Nicol Dr and Leslie Ave, Fourways, tel. +27 87 351 8333, www. thesmilefactory.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–14:00.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS No matter how solemn their intention, most people regard public holidays as shopping-extravaganza days and most big malls will be open. Whenever a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday.

January 1 March 21 March 25 March 28 April 27 May 1 June 16 August 9 September 24 December 16 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Human Rights Day Good Friday Family Day Freedom Day Workers’ Day Youth Day National Women’s Day Heritage Day Day of Reconciliation Christmas Day Day of Goodwill

POSTAGE Branches of the South African Post Office can be found in most shopping malls, as can their commercial rival Postnet (tel. 0860 767 8638, www.postnet.co.za). For sending packages and letters in a hurry or for courier services, Postnet is your best bet. Note there is a Post Office branch in O.R. Tambo airport (Terminal A1 International Arrivals. Open 07:00–21:00, Sat and Sun 07:00–20:00).

TIPPING If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants, 10% of the bill is the expected minimum tip, and expect to dole out between R5 and R10 to petrol attendants. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Districts A-Z Joburg is a city of diverse districts. The city centre (‘innercity’ or ‘town’) is still the victim of a poor reputation, although there have been dramatic improvements in recent years. The revitalised Main Street Mining District, between the Carlton Centre (Africa’s tallest skyscraper) and Chancellor House, is the place to learn about the city’s gold rush past. On the western edge of the city centre is the colourful Indian district Fordsburg, with the Oriental Plaza (see p. 54) at its centre, while the city’s leafy older suburbs spread northwards, each with its own distinctive atmosphere. For café culture visit suburban high streets like Parkhurst’s 4th Avenue, Tyrone Avenue in Parkview, Grant Avenue in Norwood or 7th Street in Linden. Here’s our guide to the most popular districts for visitors; you can find in-depth guides to the city’s districts on our website.

Maboneng street art by Nelson Makamo

ROSEBANK At its centre is the Rosebank Mall and a network of neat pedestrianised streets and walkways, lined with lots of dining, entertainment and retail options, including an extensive daily African craft market and a popular Sunday rooftop market (see p. 54).

SANDTON Corporate central – this is Africa’s richest commercial square mile with a concentration of luxury hotels and enough shops to satisfy everyone, from West African oil billionaires to manicured socialites. Cranes dominate the skyline as company HQs and luxury apartment blocks rise.

NEWTOWN With a new hotel (see p. 21), shopping centre and sexy restaurants and bars Newtown’s cultural heart, with its museums, theatre and live music venues, has been revived. Look out for major events at Mary Fitzgerald Square and on the piazza at Newtown Junction Shopping Centre. Buy top local design items here.

BRAAMFONTEIN ‘Braam’ is Joburg’s uber-cool party central, full of fixie-bike hipster cyclists, gourmet coffee shops, art galleries, rooftop bars, limited-edition brand stores and students from the two nearby university campuses.

MABONENG Inner-city regeneration in action – this district has been converted from rundown industrial buildings into a happening lifestyle playground that is constantly being reinvigorated. Here you’ll find plenty of street art, cool local fashion boutiques, artist studios, great food and bars.

All text added in InDesign MELVILLE Joburg’s most bohemian suburb is famed for its quirky restaurants (see p. 31), second-hand shops, friendly cafés and other alternative hangouts. For nightlife head to 7th Street and for boutique shopping visit the 27 Boxes container shopping centre.

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CITY CENTRE MAP

RENAMED STREETS In March 2015 a number of city streets were renamed. Street signage is still being updated. These streets are: Bree St = Lilian Ngoyi St, Jeppe St = Rahima Moosa St, Noord St = Sophie de Bruyn St, President St = Helen Joseph St, Sauer St = Pixley ka Isaka Seme St.

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Nowhere can the story of South Africa’s turbulent past and its extraordinary transition to democracy be told as it is at Constitution Hill. Exhibitions and guided tours have been designed as an interactive experience.