Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 9, Sep 2016-Jan 2017

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg and Surrounds

September 2016 - January 2017

A giant awakens

Main Street gets a new brewery and a new life

Purple spring

Joburg’s jacaranda trail

N°9 - R40 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Contents The best Johannesburg has to offer in one great app

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What’s on 7 A round-up of the season’s best events

Arriving & getting around

16

Planes, trains and automobiles

Where to stay

19

Best guest houses, hotels and hostels

Where to eat

22

Suggestions for all tastes and budgets

Nightlife

36

Best live-music haunts, pubs and clubs

Purple spring

42

Joburg trees get their petal power

Main Street’s gold rush

44

The hottest spots in the inner city

Sightseeing

In Your Pocket City Essentials

48 Tours 48 Museums 48 Soweto 50

Outdoors

53 53 53

Family fun Cycling

Shopping

Only our favourite places Works offline, including maps Free download Including dozens of other cities

www.iyp.me/app E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

54 Cool and quirky shops 54 Boutique shopping 56 Markets 58 Hotspot: Rosebank 59 Shopping centres 60

Joburg basics

61

Essential information for your stay Maps: Soweto p. 52, Districts p. 63, City Centre pp.

64–65, Sandton p. 66. All City Centre addresses listed in the guide are referenced to the map on pp. 64 and 65.

EDITOR’S NOTE In Your Pocket City Guides publishes independent editorial content. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Venues are selected by our editorial team, and listings are not paid for. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Foreword Over the past few months shiny new attractions have cropped up across the inner-city map, creating new gold for this 130-year-old city that got its start as a dusty mining camp. From the beginning Johannesburg (or Joburg, as locals prefer) offered the promise of discovery and great riches. It is no different today, attracting people with big dreams and little fear of hard work. Everyone in Joburg has a business plan – or, at least, a plan. Read all about the city’s most recent assets in Main Street’s gold rush (see p. 44). During spring in October and early-November, the older city suburbs are covered in a splendid purple canopy of jacaranda flowers. Check out our list of where to get Joburg’s best tree views (see p. 42). Then there’s our roundup of what’s on, favourite places to eat and drink, a guide to the best live-music venues, family attractions and a range of cycling tours, and the coolest Soweto spots. Wherever you go, and whatever you choose to do, in your hands is your passport to being a Joburg insider.

Publisher In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd, Postnet Suite #108, Private Bag X7, Parkview 2122, South Africa. For general enquiries, listings updates, events notices and distribution information, mail us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com.

Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz Writer & Editorial Consultant Louise Whitworth Copy-editing & Design Lomin Saayman Researchers Chanelle van der Linde, Heather Martens Columnist Carrie Adams Photography Anton Bosman (@antonbosman), Mark Straw (@markstraw), Justin Lee (justinlee.co.za) and In Your Pocket City Guides Maps © In Your Pocket City Guides

COVER STORY

Print and online advertising Contact laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com, tel. +27 82 572 3553.

The cover image of Mad Giant brewery at 1 Fox Precinct, a new development in the city’s historic Ferreirasdorp district, was shot by Sheldon Evans. Housed in a complex of warehouses dating back to Joburg’s mining past, Mad Giant is a brewery and offers specialist beer tastings. It is also home to a tapas restaurant, Urbanologi, and a retail store (see pages 22, 41 and 44).

Ferreirasdorp (‘dorp’ is Afrikaans for ‘town’) was one of the first mining camps set up after gold was discovered here in the 1880s.

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

Published February, May and September.

Print deliveries The Joburg Squirrel, www.oembotutravel.co.za ISSN 2311-3944

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6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new smartphone app: In Your Pocket City Essentials. Featuring hand-picked venues and sights alongside essential travel information, these city guides have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places they are happy to recommend. The app – available on both iOS and Android – is free, and works offline. Go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone to download it.

To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket globally, follow us on inyourpocket or inyourpocket. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

Animal Farm, Market Theatre

THEATRE & DANCE 15.09 THURSDAY – 02.10 SUNDAY I TURNED AWAY AND SHE WAS GONE Set in modern-day KwaZulu-Natal, Jennie Reznek’s critically acclaimed one-woman comedy-drama is loosely based on the Greek myth of Demeter and Persephone, and examines the relationships between mothers and daughters as seen through three generations of one family.QMarket Theatre.

Tickets from R90. See p. 14 for venue addresses.

20.09 TUESDAY – 02.10 SUNDAY ANIMAL FARM This award-winning stage production of George Orwell’s classic novel, co-produced by the innovative ShakeXperience company, focuses on the key themes of leadership and power and references recent scandals such as Jacob Zuma’s Nkandla ‘fire pool’ and the horrific Marikana mine massacre.QMarket Theatre, Tickets from R90.

30.09 FRIDAY – 09.10 SUNDAY CINDERELLA Joburg Ballet, South Africa’s leading professional ballet company, presents a classical staging of Cinderella that promises drama, magic, dazzling stage scenery and a glittering ball all set to the music of Johann Strauss.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R90–R225.

11.10 TUESDAY – 22.10 SATURDAY HOOT Geraldine Naidoo’s cross-cultural comedy returns to the stage starring Matthew Ribnick as a rich white man who loses everything and ends up becoming a minibus taxi driver.QTheatre on the Square. Tickets R70–R140. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

12.10 WEDNESDAY – 30.10 SUNDAY THE CENOTAPH OF DAN WA MORIRI This intensely personal one-hander starring Tony Miyambo is a poignant tribute to the actor’s late father. An exploration of the intimacies of the father-son relationship and the difficult process of grief and memory, it is a highly personal narrative that also brings to the stage a wealth of universal themes.QMarket Theatre. Tickets from R90.

30.11 WEDNESDAY – 24.12 SATURDAY CIRQUE ELOIZE ID Described by one newspaper as ‘West Side Story gone circus hip hop’, Cirque Eloize is a Canadian dance and acrobatics show featuring incredible stunts, costumes and top-drawer breakdancing.QTeatro at Montecasino. Tickets R150–R450.

FAMILY ENTERTAINMENT 12.10 WEDNESDAY – 27.11 SUNDAY ANNIE This heartwarming musical favourite stars an all-South African cast and is sure to delight with its catchy soundtrack and uplifting story.QTeatro at Montecasino. Tickets R150–R500.

5.11 SATURDAY – 30.12 FRIDAY JANICE HONEYMAN’S ROBIN HOOD Janice Honeyman’s annual pantomime is always a hit, with elaborate sets, fantastic costumes and a script full of comedy that will appeal to both children and adults.

QJoburg Theatre. Tickets R100–R300.

September 2016 – January 2017 7

What’s On

Walter Battiss, Mantis Man, 1970 Wits Art Museum

WHAT’S ON TONIGHT? Like any busy city, Joburg has its own rhythm and some days are a lot busier than others. Culturally speaking, not much happens on Mondays and many museums, bars and restaurants are closed, but mid-week you’ll already find Joburg’s trivia buffs and bookworms putting their minds to work at pub quizzes and book launches.

Art gallery openings are generally held on Thursday nights. Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays are when bars and restaurants are busiest, especially during the first and last weekends of the month – visit neighbourhoods like Melville, Parkhurst, Maboneng and Braamfontein for the widest choice of nightlife, and if you want to listen to local bands try one of the clubs in our Live Music round-up (see Nightlife pages).

On Saturdays and Sundays food and craft markets are among the most popular afternoon hangouts, and if you plan to head to a restaurant on a Saturday night, best make a reservation. If you like healthy living and outdoor pursuits, sporting activity is also a big part of the local social scene – look out for regular 5km trail runs and yoga sessions on Saturday and Sunday mornings in the city’s parks (see Purple Spring).

Before going to print, we at In Your Pocket strive to bring together a selection of the biggest events taking place in the city during the coming season that will interest our readers. Space is limited so we can never put everything in our printed guides. All information is accurate at the time of going to print, but changes may occur so, for a complete guide, visit our website johannesburg.inyourpocket.com and browse our What’s On calendar to see what’s on tonight. Daily we share new happenings in the city, so follow us at @JohannesburgIYP and on @JohannesburgInYourPocket, like us on JohannesburgInYourPocket and sign up for our weekly email newsletter at ow.ly/B7mRh to stay up to speed.

8 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

FESTIVALS 02.09 FRIDAY – 04.09 SUNDAY SOWETO EAT IN A prelude to Soweto Wine and Lifestyle Festival in March, this celebration of all things local includes a fresh produce market and a chance to sample offal and meat cuts at the Slow Meat Competition at Soweto Theatre amphitheatre on Saturday. On Sunday, head to the special foodie edition of Soweto’s hip Locrate Market.QVarious venues, www. locratemarket.co.za, www.swlf.co.za.

10.09 SATURDAY JOBURG LIVE LOUD Local radio station 5FM hosts this all-day music festival featuring some of the best hip hop, house and indie bands of the moment, including AKA, Black Coffee, The Parlotones, Kwesta, Goodluck, Shortstraw, Riky Rick and Gangs of Ballet.QMarks Park Sports Club, Judith Rd, Emmarentia, liveloud.5fm.co.za. From 10:00–22:00. Tickets R350.

01.10 SATURDAY – 02.10 SUNDAY HERITAGE WEEKEND In celebration of the 130th anniversary of the City of Johannesburg, the Johannesburg Heritage Foundation offers a weekend full of different heritage-themed tours and talks including history walks, visits to local heritage buildings and gardens and to some of the city’s older and less explored neighbourhoods.QSee www.joburgheritage.co.za for tour details.

08.10 SATURDAY – 09.10 SUNDAY DSTV DELICIOUS This annual festival mixes food and music with two days of music performances by major international acts, celebrity chef demonstrations and a gourmet food and wine market.

Headline acts include superstar Macy Gray (08.10) and legend Hugh Masekela (09.10).QKyalami Grand Prix Circuit, cnr Pitts Ave and Allendale Rd, Kyalami, delicious.dstv. com. Tickets R475, weekend pass R810. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

29.10 SATURDAY RETROFEST #5 This acoustic music festival, set in an impressive contemporary sculpture park in the Cradle of Humankind, showcases South Africa’s finest acoustics musicians performing iconic folk songs by the likes of Bob Dylan and Neil Young. There’s also gourmet food and boutique wines on sale at the Epicurean Emporium. A fun family day out.QNirox Sculpture Park, 24 Kromdraai Rd, Krugersdorp, www.acousticsnow.org. From11:00–22:00. Tickets R300.

26.11 SATURDAY SANSUI SUMMER CUP 2016 This is Joburg’s oldest and most respected first-grade horse race. Race day at Turffontein Racecourse (founded in 1887, a year after the city was declared) is as much about the fillies as the fashion. Watch the celebrity action dressed in your summer finest (strictly no flip-flops or sportswear). Cocktails, champagne and live music add to the festive atmosphere.

QTurffontein Racecourse, 14 Turf Club St, Turffontein, www.sansuisummercup.co.za. From 11:00–23:00.

02.12 FRIDAY – 04.12 SUNDAY MAKHELWANE FESTIVAL At this community-focused annual street festival in Mzimphlope (Orlando West), Soweto, locals open their gardens and homes to the public, with food stalls, live music, DJs, cookery classes and art exhibitions.QPoka St, Mzimphlope, Soweto, www.locratemarket.co.za/makhe. Tickets from R100. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

EDITOR’S PICKS 15.09 THURSDAY – 17.09 SATURDAY STANDARD BANK JOY OF JAZZ Three days, four stages and 38 performers from across South Africa and the world gather in Sandton for the city’s leading jazz festival, attended by the Afropolitan’s who’s who. Expect a variety of genres and performances by both established and upcoming jazz stars, including major names like Jonathan Butler, Sipho Hotstix Mabuse, Judith Sephuma, Ranee Lee and Houston Person.QSandton Convention Centre, www.joyofjazz. co.za. Tickets R500–R750, weekend pass R1 250.

07.10 FRIDAY – 09.10 SUNDAY IN THE CITY WEEKEND A three-day music festival taking place at three iconic venues. On October 7 the party begins with house and techno DJs at the Liftoff party at & Club in Newtown (from 21:00); on October 8 Juta Street in Braamfontein becomes an urban beach with hip hop and house DJs performing at the Virgin Mobile Braam Beach Party (15:30–22:00); and on October 9 there’s a day of live music in the beautiful park adjoining Emmarentia dam, headlined by US indie band Foster the People and British beatboxer Beardyman (10:00–18:00).QTickets R120–R495, weekend festival pass R700. See www. inthecityjhb.co.za for more details.

September 2016 – January 2017 9

What’s On more details). Hipsters and fashionable young things like to socialise at busy inner-city markets like Neighbourgoods Market in Braamfontein (Sat 09:00–15:00) and Market On Main in Maboneng (Sun 10:00–15:00). For more on Joburg markets, see Shopping.

Sanlam Handmade Contemporary

FOOD, WINE & SHOPPING MARKETS Any day of the week is market day in Joburg, offering an array of great food, the widest variety of crafted goods, antique bric-a-brac, vintage clothing, craft beers and musthave souvenirs. Weekends are when you’ll have the most options, with a range of markets that appeal as much to hipsters and families as to foodies and souvenir hunters.

On Thursdays and Saturdays head to the leafy suburbs of Bryanston for the Bryanston Organic Market (Thu, Sun and public holidays 09:00–15:00), known for its high-quality handmade African wares, organic foodstuffs, hands-on crafting activities and countryside-style setting. On Sundays there’s the Rosebank Sunday Market on the rooftop of Rosebank Mall, which has the biggest selection of local crafts and fashion, vintage bric-a-brac and exotic food stalls serving everything from Malaysian curries to Palestinian falafel (Sun 09:00–16:00). For a taste of inner-city regeneration there’s 1 Fox Market Shed in a heritage building in 1 Fox Precinct, with plenty of food, fashion and craft stalls and a great beer garden (Fri 12:00–17:00 and until 22:00 on the last Fri of the month; Sat, Sun and public holidays 10:00–16:00. See our feature Joburg’s new Main Street for

24.09 SATURDAY PIC NIC NEW TOWN This monthly urban picnic event takes place on the lawn facing the fashionable Work Shop New Town design emporium. A fun way to spend an afternoon in the city, there’s a range of great picnic baskets to choose from, plus craft beers, cocktails, DJs, live music and plenty to keep kids entertained. See website for full schedule.QB-4, Work Shop New Town, Newtown Junction, cnr Miriam Makeba and Gwigi Mrwebi Sts, Newtown, www.workshopnewtown.

From 12:00–17:00. Entrance is free.

19.09 MONDAY – 24.09 SATURDAY CHEFS WHO SHARE Fourteen leading local and international chefs descend on Joburg for this four-day culinary event in aid of local charities. Unique tasting menus and wine pairings will be served at three top hotels: Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff (20.09), The Maslow (21.09) and The Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa (22.09).

The event ends on 24.09 with a grand gala dinner and art auction at City Hall.QFor bookings call +27 21 433 1699, www.chefswhoshare.com.

25.09 SUNDAY FARM TO TABLE @ L’ANTICO Celebrating the arrival of spring, this farm-to-table lunch is the perfect opportunity to enjoy the fine weather, with a generous harvest table of gourmet dishes showcasing locally sourced produce, served in a beautifully restored farmhouse venue just outside the city. There’s also lots of kids’ entertainment, including pony rides.QL’Antico Giardino, Farm 534, Nooitgedeacht, Pine Valley Rd, Lanseria, www.theforum. co.za, tel. +27 11 575 7922. Advanced booking essential.

LIVE MUSIC 17.09

Major League Gardens. Hip hop and kwaito. FNB Stadium outer fields, 12:00.

Tickets R200–R650

18.09

Johannesburg Festival Orchestra: Spring Concert. Linder Auditorium, 15:00. Tickets R130–R275

30.09– 01.10

Legends of R&B Volume II: The Stylistics and Lenny Williams. Teatro at Montecasino, 20:00. Tickets R400–R850

09.10.

Johannesburg Festival Orchestra perform Karl Jenkin’s The Armed Man, A Mass for Peace. Linder Auditorium, 15:00. Tickets R130–R275

10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

15.10.

Konstantin Scherbakov (classical piano).

Linder Auditorium, 20:00. Tickets R165–R220

23.10.

Julio Iglesias. Big Top Arena, Carnival City, 19:00. Tickets R350–R1 250

06.11.

Johannesburg Festival Orchestra perform choral favourites. Linder Auditorium, 15:00.

Tickets R130–R275

12.11

UB40 feat. Ali, Astro and Mickey. TicketPro Dome, 21:00. Tickets R450–R790

10.12– 11.12

Johannesburg Festival Orchestra and Symphony Choir Christmas Concert. Linder Auditorium, Sat 16:30, Sun 15:00. Tickets R190 johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

28.09 WEDNESDAY – 02.10 SUNDAY KAMERS A veritable treasure trove of unique handcrafted items, this event is said to be ‘South Africa’s biggest pop-up retail experience’. There’s a varied selection of unique jewellery, ceramics, decor, clothing and accessories to buy, as well as artisanal food and drinks on sale, and live music.QGalleria, 10 Eastern Service Rd, Kramerville, Sandton, kamersvol.com.

01.10 SATURDAY A BLOOMING AFFAIR The impressive gardens of one of the city’s oldest and most prestigious private schools, Roedean School for Girls, open for the day with guided tours of the gardens and an array of gourmet food and craft stalls, a champagne bar and book sale. There are also plenty of prizes to be won on the day.

QRoedean School, Princess of Wales Terrace, Parktown, www.abloomingaffair.co.za. From 09:00–16:00. Entrance R30.

14.10 FRIDAY – 16.10 SUNDAY SANLAM HANDMADE CONTEMPORARY FAIR This annual food, wine and design event is an excellent shopping opportunity and a popular social event. Expect lots of gourmet foods and boutique wines as well as chic handcrafted decor, jewellery and fashion items made by local designers, many of whom are based in Cape Town.

QHyde Park Corner rooftop, Hyde Park, www.sanlamhmc.co.za. Open Fri 12:00–22:00, Sat 10:00–21:00, Sun 10:00–16:00. Tickets R90–R110. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

FESTIVE JOBURG During the Christmas and New Year holidays most Joburgers leave the city to visit family or spend time on South Africa’s beaches. The city can be very quiet with many restaurants and bars closing for the Christmas week. On the other hand, in the period leading up to the holidays (end-November to mid-December) Joburg comes alive with tonnes of festive markets, pop-up bars, festivals, late-night shopping and a summer-party atmosphere. For all the latest festive season events, keep an eye on our website www.inyourpocket.com/johannesburg/events.

26.10 WEDNESDAY – 28.10 FRIDAY RMB WINEX WINE FESTIVAL More than 100 local and international wine producers gather for one of the biggest annual wine events, offering a wide variety to try and buy from across South Africa.

QSandton Convention Centre, www.winex.co.za. From 17:00–21:00.

09.11 WEDNESDAY – 11.11 FRIDAY WHISKY LIVE FESTIVAL Discover the delights of the perfect dram at this festival devoted to the finest Scottish and Irish whiskies.QSandton Convention Centre, www.whiskylivefestival.co.za. From 17:30–22:00.

September 2016 – January 2017 11

What’s On FIRST THURSDAYS On the first Thursday of every month you can look forward to contemporary art, live music, DJ sets, poetry, performance art and pop-up bars in Braamfontein, Maboneng and Rosebank as part of First Thursdays, an after-hours cultural event that takes place in both Joburg and Cape Town. Joburg is a sprawling city so it is best to choose one area in which to spend the evening. You can collect a First Thursdays guide detailing the night’s events at all participating art galleries. Entrance to venues is usually free, and most events start from 18:00. For more, visit www.first-thursdays.co.za/johannesburg.

BRAAMFONTEIN With its many bars and large student population, you’ll find a real party atmosphere here.

Popular venues include the Neighbourgoods Night Market (73 Juta St) with its gourmet street food, cocktails and live bands, and contemporary art galleries Stevenson, Kalashnikovv Gallery and Wits Art Museum.

Braamfontein’s numerous bars such as Kitchener’s and The Bannister Hotel Bar, and hip fashion stores like Puma Select also usually host late-night DJ parties as part of First Thursdays.

MABONENG The trendy Maboneng Precinct, a fashionable downtown district that stretches across several regenerated city blocks, is known for its hip cafés, galleries and bars, and vibrant, youthful street life. On First Thursdays follow the area’s many resident artists to lively opening parties at places like AGOG, MOAD, SoMa and Hazard Gallery, and for cocktails and DJs pop into one of the area’s many bars, such as Lenin’s Vodka Bar or The Cosmopolitan.

ROSEBANK Rosebank is home to Joburg’s Art Gallery Row, with a wealth of top contemporary art galleries lined up along Jan Smuts Avenue (between Wells and Jellicoe Aves). On First Thursdays all the biggest galleries such as Circa Gallery, Goodman Gallery, Lizamore & Associates and Gallery MOMO (a few blocks away on 7th Avenue in Parktown North), as well as their smaller (but by no means less exciting) counterparts like David Krut Projects, Res Gallery and Gallery 2 stay open later to host exhibition launch parties, providing a great opportunity to socialise with locals and the art world’s who’s who over a glass of wine.

Kalashnikovv Gallery, Braamfontein

12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Africans in America, Goodman Gallery

EXHIBITIONS UNTIL 17.09 SATURDAY HENRI MATISSE: RHYTHM AND MEANING French artist Henri Matisse is a global reference for Modernist art and this is the first exhibition of his work in South Africa. Eighty paintings, drawings, collages and prints cover Matisse’s long career, and include 20 prints from his famous book, Jazz.QD-5, Standard Bank Gallery, cnr Simmonds and Frederick Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 11 631 4467, www.standardbankarts.co.za. Open 08:00–16:30, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun and public holidays.

UNTIL 09.10 SUNDAY WALTER BATTISS Wits University hosts two exhibitions of the works of celebrated South African artist Walter Battiss (1906–82). I Invented Myself (Wits Art Museum) is an exhibition of more than 700 works from the collection of philanthropist Jack Ginsberg, covering all periods of Battiss’s illustrious career.

The Origins of Walter Battiss: Another Curious Palimpsest is on at nearby Origins Centre (see Sightseeing) and focuses particularly on the artist’s lifelong fascination with African rock art.QB-2, Wits Art Museum, cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1365, www.wits.ac.za/ wam. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. UNTIL 14.10 FRIDAY BARTHÉLÉMY TOGUO A solo exhibition by Cameroonian painter, visual and performance artist Barthélémy Toguo, highlighting common themes in the political and cultural turmoil facing communities around the world.QC-3, Stevenson Gallery, 62 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1055, www.stevenson. info. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Closed Sun. UNTIL 13.11 TUESDAY OFF THE WALL Legendary South African gallerist Linda Givon celebrates her 80th birthday this year and is marking the event with this exhibition of contemporary art from her private collection. Featured artists include William Kentridge, Dumile Feni and Marina Abramović, and Givon has also commissioned some new works especially for this show.QWits Art Museum (see details above). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On THE BIOSCOPE

9.09 FRIDAY – 11.09 SUNDAY FNB JOBURG ART FAIR 2016 A premier event on Joburg’s annual art calendar, this fair attracts thousands to Sandton to socialise, view and buy artworks from top and emerging artists from South Africa and the rest of the African continent. From sculpture to photography, prints to paintings, this year’s fair also includes a special focus on East Africa, featuring Kenya’s Wangechi Mutu. Also see the annual Art Week Joburg festival (1.09–07.09, www. artweekjoburg.co.za for details).QSandton Convention Centre, Maude St, Sandton, www.fnbjoburgartfair.co.za.

Open Fri 12:00–20:00, Sat 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–17:00.

Tickets R100–R130, weekend pass R260.

For indie, arthouse and foreign-language films, the small independent cinema The Bioscope, in Maboneng, leads the pack and is also the best place to catch new documentaries and African films. Regular events include Le Movie Club French film night on the last Thursday of every month, and Classic Movie screenings on Fridays and Sundays (check their online schedule for the latest).

Adjoining the cinema is Chalkboard Café serving a range of craft beers and pizzas that you can enjoy during the screening.QG-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 039 7306, www.thebioscope.co.za.

For commercial cinema details, go to www.johannesburginyourpocket.com. From 28.10 – 5.11, look out for the inaugural Joburg Film Festival, a showcase of locally produced films in open-air locations.Qwww. joburgfilmfestival.com.

15.09 THURSDAY – 18.12 SUNDAY PERFECT FUTURES A solo show by Togolese designer and artist Kossi Aguessy, whose iconic decor and design pieces can be found in museums worldwide, focusing on his fascination with futuristic forms, and methods of construction.QG-4, Museum of African Design (MOAD), 281 Commissioner St, Maboneng, www.moadjhb.com. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00–18;00. Closed Mon.

VENUE ADDRESS BOOK CARNIVAL CITY Cnr Century and Elsburg Rds, Brakpan, tel. +27 11 898 7000, www.carnivalcitycasino.co.za JOBURG THEATRE C-2 163 Civic Blvd (formerly Loveday St), Braamfontein, tel. 0861 670 670, www.joburgtheatre.com LINDER AUDITORIUM 27 St Andrews Rd, Parktown, tel. +27 11 789 2733, jfo.co.za MARKET THEATRE B-4 Cnr Lilian Ngoyi St and Miriam Makeba St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832 1641, markettheatre.co.za TEATRO AT MONTECASINO Cnr William Nicol Drive and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365/6, www. montecasino.co.za SANDTON CONVENTION CENTRE Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 779 0000, www.saconvention.co.za TICKETPRO DOME Cnr Northumberland Rd and Olievenhout Ave, North Riding, tel. +27 11 794 5800, ticketprodome.co.za THEATRE ON THE SQUARE Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton, tel. +27 11 883 8606, theatreonthesquare. co.za 14 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

22.09 THURSDAY – 05.10 WEDNESDAY A NEW MOURNING Leading Joburg-based alternative band The Brother Moves On host their first art exhibition, dedicated to the collective’s late founder Nkululeko Mthembu. Much like their music, the exhibition promises to defy description, mixing African spiritual elements, improvisation, interactive installations and performances.QGoodman Gallery, 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood (Rosebank), tel. +27 11 788 1113, www.goodman-gallery.com. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Sun. 20.10 THURSDAY – 23.12 FRIDAY PORTIA ZVAVAHERA Award-winning Zimbabwean artist Zvavahera is known for her richly layered paintings that focus particularly on feminine experiences of faith, relationships and motherhood.

QStevenson Gallery (contact details on p. 12).

27.10 THURSDAY – 30.11 SATURDAY MARCUS NEUSTETTER Working in a variety of mediums including photography, print, video and light installation, Neustetter’s artworks typically combine a focus on art, science and the constructed world.QCirca Gallery, 6 Jellicoe Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, www.circagallery.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. 03.11 THURSDAY – 27.11 SUNDAY AFRICANS IN AMERICA Africans in America is the latest exhibition in the ongoing In Context series at the Goodman Gallery, co-curated by American artist Hank Willis Thomas and including a programme of collaborations with museums and educational institutions.

QGoodman Gallery (see contact details above). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

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We welcome you to our largest iteration yet.

Arriving & Getting Around

Downtown Joburg Anton Bosman

ARRIVING Johannesburg, known to locals as Joburg, is served by two airports: the major transport hub, O.R. Tambo International Airport, 30km east of Sandton, and the smaller Lanseria Airport, 30km north-west of Sandton. Most international flights pass through O.R. Tambo, while Lanseria is increasingly used by budget airlines serving destinations both in South Africa and in other African countries.

The busiest times are in the evening and morning when most transcontinental flights arrive and depart. Unlike on international flights, domestic flights do not impose the same restrictions on carrying liquids so you won’t have to leave your wine or sunscreen at the airport.

O.R. TAMBO AIRPORT Southern Africa’s biggest airport is spacious and modern, and has loads of nice shops. The domestic terminal has a range of retail stores, plus a useful supermarket. The building is easy to navigate. Passengers are served by two terminals: A and B. The check-in for all domestic and South African Airways (SAA) flights is in Terminal B, and for other international flights in Terminal A. For security purposes have your bags safely locked or wrapped, and only hand over your luggage to staff at the check-in counter. For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007. If you have some time on your hands, head for the viewing deck to see a small but worthwhile exhibition on the life of Oliver Reginald Tambo, the airport’s namesake and a liberation struggle hero.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86 727 7888 (flight information), www.acsa.co.za.

PARK STATION Park Station in the City Centre is Joburg’s main transport hub. Built in the 1930s, today it is a mostly modern edifice and few remnants of its early architecture remain. Minibus taxis, local rail and the Gautrain ferry commuters through here every day, while long-distance bus and train companies also operate from the station. An estimated one million people use the station every weekday, making it the busiest transport hub in southern Africa. This is also the starting point for the City Sightseeing Red Bus tour (see Sightseeing).

16 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Getting to/from O.R. Tambo Airport Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton.

A ticket from Sandton to O.R. Tambo Airport costs R151.

After hours (stations open around 05:00 and close around 21:00) you will need to travel by taxi or book a shuttle bus. Ortiata Taxis (tel. +27 86 124 3243, www.jiata.co.za) charge per kilometre. Follow the signs in the airport terminals to the taxi booking office.

LANSERIA AIRPORT Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for many charter flights to private game reserves, and used by local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, lanseria.co.za.

Getting to/from Lanseria Airport Lanseria is served by taxis (Lanseria Taxis, tel. +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066 6435, www.lanseriataxis.com) and private shuttles.

BETWEEN AIRPORTS The fastest way to travel between Lanseria and O.R. Tambo international airports is to use a shuttle service to the Sandton Gautrain station, and then the Gautrain to O.R. Tambo airport. LIAshuttle offers transfers between Lanseria airport and the Sandton Gautrain station, as well as other destinations (tel. +27 060 440 0372, www.liashuttle. com) or book with EZ Shuttle (tel. 086 139 7488, ezshuttle.co.za). Taxi services are also available.

LOCAL AIRLINES Joburg is served by the national carrier South African Airways (SAA) and a number of budget domestic airlines.

SAAQTel. 086 135 8722 or +27 11 978 1000, www.flysaa. com. British AirwaysQTel. +27 11 441 8600, www. britishairways.com. Fastjet (budget)QTel. +27 11 289 8090, www.fastjet.com. Kulula Air (budget)QTel. 086 158 5852 or +27 11 921 0570, www.kulula.com. Mango (budget)QTel. 086 100 1234 or +27 11 086 6100, www. flymango.com. Safair (budget)QTel. +27 11 928 0000, www.flysafair.co.za. Fly Africa (budget)QTel. +27 11 289 8101, flyafrica.com. Travelstart is a helpful online travel agency offering price comparison on flight bookings for all major airlines and budget carriers with destinations in South Africa.Qwww.travelstart.co.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around PUBLIC TRANSPORT GAUTRAIN Fast, clean and reliable, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘How-train’) rapid rail service links Joburg, Pretoria and O.R. Tambo Airport via two lines. The main line starts at Joburg’s Park Station and stops at Rosebank, Sandton, Marlboro, Midrand, Centurion, central Pretoria and Hatfield. The second line travels from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport via Marlboro and Rhodesfield. To use the service you need a Gautrain Gold Card, which you can buy and add money to at all Gautrain stations. Each Gautrain station is served by a network of Gautrain buses that link commuters with nearby suburbs. Gautrain buses are also paid for using the Gold Card, and route maps can be viewed at each station. Note that Gautrain buses do not run at weekends (except for the Montecasino-Sandton and Midrand-Mall of Africa routes). You need a minimum of R20 loaded on your Gold Card to access Gautrain trains and buses. The last train to O.R. Tambo leaves Sandton at 21:04, the first at 04:50. The first trains leave Hatfield and Park Station at 05:30, the last at 20:30.QGautrain hotline tel. 0800 428 872 46, www. gautrain.co.za.

METROBUS The budget workhorse of the city’s public transport system, Metrobus is suited to more adventurous (and patient) travellers looking to cross the city. Most buses terminate at Gandhi Square in the City Centre (D-5, Main St, cnr Rissik St), where there is an information office (in the Gandhi Mall) with timetables and route information (note that the buses are not known for arriving on schedule). The majority of buses depart in the early-morning (06:00–09:30) and late-afternoon (16:00–17:30) rush hours. Useful routes include the #05C/D from Gandhi Square to Rosebank and Sandton City.

MINIBUS TAXIS Minibus taxis follow set routes but are referred to as ‘taxis’.

The erratic and aggressive driving of some drivers and the sometimes poor condition of their vehicles have given the service a bad reputation. However, for many daily commuters they are a highly efficient transport service as they cover large swathes of the city. They stop abruptly, do not have routes displayed, and can only be hailed by making the appropriate hand signal (see graphic above). The main taxi ranks are at Park Station and Metro Mall in Newtown.

Be vigilant at these busy ranks and avoid using them at night or alone. After hailing a ‘taxi’, find a seat and hand the exact fare to the driver (usually R10–R15 for short journeys). At main stops the driver may wait until the vehicle fills with commuters. You need to call out in advance when you want to get off – giving a landmark is usually easiest.

Although travelling by minibus taxi can be intimidating, adventurous travellers will find they offer much insight into everyday South African life.

REA VAYA The Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport system (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and special enclosed bus stops with facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Braamfontein to City Centre

City Centre

MINIBUS TAXI HAND SIGNALS

Dunkeld to Rosebank, City Centre to Rivonia, Illovo to Rosebank Images by Susan Woolf

raised platforms and security staff. Currently the Rea Vaya runs between the City Centre and surrounds (including the main university campuses) to destinations in Soweto. To use the bus it is advisable to register for a smart card (at Park Station, Carlton Centre or University of Johannesburg Kingsway in Auckland Park) as single tickets are not available at all stations and cannot be purchased on the bus. Buses don’t always make every stop unless requested so tell the driver where you want to disembark. Stops are around one kilometre or more apart. Note that you will need to show your passport or some other form of picture ID to register.

Buses arrive every 10–20 minutes and most buses run between 05:30 and 18:30 (on some routes until 20:30). See www.reavaya.org.za.

These are some useful routes on the Rea Vaya system: C-3 The circular City Centre C-3 route stops at most major tourist sights as well as Park Station. Stops include Constitution Hill, Johannesburg Art Gallery, the Fashion District, the Carlton Centre (visit the 50th-floor viewing deck for amazing city views), Library Gardens, Chancellor House, Newtown Junction (Mary Fitzgerald Square) and Wits Art Museum in Braamfontein.

C-1 For Maboneng catch the C-1 at Chancellor House, Library Gardens or Carlton Centre and get off at the Jeppe SAPS stop (cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd and Betty St). The centre of Maboneng is a two-minute-walk via Betty Street.

C-4 Leaves from Park Station. For 44 Stanley get out at Milpark and for Melville at Main Rd and 1st Ave (Melville’s main hub, 7th Street, is a 10-minute walk via 1st Ave).

T-2 and F-4 For Vilakazi Street in Soweto take the T-2 from Park Station and change to the F-4 bus at the Boomtown Station in Soweto.

DRIVING AND CAR RENTAL The easiest way to explore Joburg is by car. Shop around for a rental car, book in advance and it won’t break the bank.

Plan your route before you set off, and store valuable items out of sight. South Africans drive on the left-hand side of the road and pass on the right. The maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left-hand lane because they make unannounced and frequent stops. Traffic lights often don’t work; when this happens, treat the crossing as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is September 2016 – January 2017 17

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Arriving & Getting Around

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11 666 1700), www.avis.co.za. EUROPCAR Branches at O.R. Tambo International Airport (tel. +27 11 390 3909), Lanseria Airport (tel. +27 11 548 9000), Radisson Blu Gautrain Sandton Hotel (tel. +27 11 666 8340) and now at 117 Melle St, Braamfontein (tel. +27 11 403 2679), www.europcar. co.za. RENT-A-WRECK Specialises in cheaper car rentals, as long as you don‘t mind what the car looks like (F/G-3, 13 Siemert Rd, cnr President St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 5150, www.rentawreck.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–11:00. Closed Sun).

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popular, especially in the inner city, and it is not uncommon to see someone trying to walk across a freeway. Throughout 2016 the M1 highway is undergoing major repairs between the City Centre and Killarney (Oxford Rd exit) and serious delays are to be expected, particularly between Braamfontein and the M2. There are numerous car rental companies based at both airports, and most also have drop-off points in Rosebank or Sandton. Note that the city continues to rename major thoroughfares, which are not always updated on GPS – see p. 64 for our City Centre map.

AVIS Branches at O.R. Tambo International Airport (tel. +27 11 573 5000), Lanseria Airport (tel. +27 11 659 1415), Hyatt Regency Hotel in Rosebank (tel. +27 11 442 7012) and opposite the Sandton Gautrain station on Rivonia Rd (tel. +27

NAVIGATING THE CITY See pp. 63–66 for our city maps. Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered singlestreet address. Always check whether numbered names, such as First or Second, are streets or avenues.

TRANSFERS AND TOURS OEMBOTU TRAVEL (aka The Joburg Squirrel) Highly recommended, reliable and reasonably priced transfers, tours and chauffeur services for individuals or groups. Tours can be customised and destinations include wildlife adventure spots from game-spotting in Pilanesberg to horse-riding in Magaliesberg. Oembotu Travel, owned by the dapper Henri Otou, is also an excellent choice for your Soweto visit, shopping or golf excursion.QTel. +27 73 083 6416, www.oembotutravel.co.za.

18 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Taxis can be expensive but are essential if you plan a wild night out. There are very few places where you can hail a taxi in the street. It is best to call and book in advance. Some taxis do not use meters, so arrange a price upfront. From Sandton City to the suburbs of Parkhurst or Greenside, expect to pay around R150. Smartphone users should download the Uber app and first-timers can use our Uber discount code on this page. In Melville and Sandton you’ll also find tuk-tuks, useful for making small journeys through the suburbs.

E-TUK-TUK Based in Melville and serving Braamfontein, Fordsburg, the Parks and Rosebank. All trips R50. Must be booked in advance by phone.QTel. +27 82 695 0211 or +27 82 515 6593, www.e-tuktuk.co.za. SHESHA TUKS Based outside the Sandton City mall on West Street, Shesha Tuks operates within a 5km radius. Rates start at R25 for a 3km journey, although it is best to agree a price beforehand.QTel. 086 174 3742, www.sheshatuks.co.za.

ZEBRA CABS The largest taxi company in the city. Also has a service for women who require female drivers. Firsttime users get a discount if they book using the app. You can pre-book a ride by phone, app or online. Payment is accepted via the app, by debit card in the cab, or in cash.

QTel. +27 86 110 5105, www.zebracabs.co.za.

CYCLING AND WALKING Joburg has a large and enthusiastic cycling community and the city is working to develop new bike lanes, already usable in central Sandton, Braamfontein, Auckland Park and Orlando West in Soweto. Plans are in place to extend these to Park Station, Ellis Park and Alexandra. For the most up-todate information on cycle routes, go to www.juca.org.za. For information on all things cycling, see Outdoors.

Walking in the northern suburbs such as Sandton is not particularly interesting, but City Centre and Braamfontein are easily navigated on foot and worth exploring for public art and graffiti. Some of Joburg’s prettier neighbourhoods, such as Melville or Parkhurst, are also great to explore at a slower pace. Choose to walk during the day only and don’t flash your valuables. Don’t walk through the central Joburg areas of Hillbrow, Berea, Joubert Park and Yeoville without a local guide, be careful crossing the rail tracks from City Centre to Braamfontein, and do not walk this way after dark.

Watch out for oblivious or aggressive drivers, potholes and uncovered manholes whether on foot or bike. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay

Palazzo Hotel Montecasino, Fourways

LUXURY HOTELS There’s no shortage of luxury accommodation options, and each offers something distinctive. This city was built for mining gold and many established luxury hotels focus on business travellers. The elegant Hyatt Regency is favoured by the corporate who’s who for high-powered meetings in the lobby lounge, plus you’ll be just steps away from the buzzing Rosebank shopping and entertainment complex and the Gautrain station. The hotel’s oneNINEone restaurant (see Where to Eat) opens onto a courtyard perfect for sipping cocktails far from the madding crowd (191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, www.johannesburg. regency.hyatt.com. 224 rooms).

It’s not unusual to spot burly men accompanying a king or global CEO in the stately foyer of the Intercontinental JHB Sandton Towers (cnr 5th and Maude Sts, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 780 5624, www.intercontinental.com/ johannesburg. 231 rooms), while Sandton’s grande dame, the newly refurbished Sandton Sun, is a champagne bar away from Sandton City Diamond Walk, home to the world’s swankiest fashion stores (cnr Fifth and Alice Sts, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 780 5000, www.tsogosunhotels. 326 rooms). If pure leisure is what you seek, then Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff is the playground of

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both the visiting luxury set and locals from the affluent surrounding suburbs. The drop-dead-gorgeous views of this most-treed city make it a prime sundowners destination (reserve your table). You’ll also want to sample the finedining menu at View, head to the spa for a blissful break, or enjoy a themed afternoon tea (67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6000, www.fourseasons.com/johannesburg. 117 rooms). At The Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa, each room is fit for royalty. Housed on the property that was once the home of business magnate Douw Steyn (who is building Steyn City, a new city of his own in the north), it was here that former President Nelson Mandela retreated to complete his autobiography, Long Walk To Freedom. The Eighteen05 whisky bar is a treat for aficionados, or book a wine or tea pairing with many delicate courses at Luke Dale-Roberts x Saxon (see Where to Eat), restaurant of the multi-award-winning chef (36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. + 27 11 292 6000, www.saxon.co.za. 53 rooms).

The olde-world opulent Palazzo Hotel Montecasino, a regular on the list of World Luxury Hotel winners, is also an international celebrity hangout. Within walking distance of the casino and multiple attractions, the hotel has exquisite gardens, plus a Clefs d’Or concierge to ensure a memorable trip (Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 3000, www.tsogosunhotels.com/The-Palazzo. 246 rooms).

September 2016 – January 2017 19

Where to stay GUEST HOUSES AND B&BS For garden retreats in the city’s prettiest suburbs, bed and breakfast or self-catering suites, privacy and personalised service, Johannesburg Guesthouses offers an excellent range of affordable accommodation options in and around Rosebank. For ease and convenience, see their booking website www.johannesburgguesthouses.co.za. Child-friendly, wheelchair-friendly and even pet-friendly options are available. Personalised service comes standard with your booking, and many establishments are owner-run.

Each of the properties listed offers something distinctive. Among them are Little Forest Guest House, set in an exquisite wooded garden in Parkhurst, while Hands On Retreat has an on-site hairstylist and spa.

At Amanzi Guest House you’ll wake up to fresh-baked bread and fresh juices made from organic vegetables grown on the property.

Liz Delmont, the owner of award-winning member guest house Liz at Lancaster, is an art historian turned entrepreneur and a Joburg maven and blogger with plenty of suggestions on how to enjoy the city. She has thought of everything that will make your stay as comfortable as possible (79 Lancaster Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 8083, www.lizatlancaster. co.za. 7 rooms).

Monthly rentals and meeting facilities are available at selected properties.

Little Forest Guest House, via Johannesburg Guesthouses

For a slice of peace and tranquillity 10 minutes’ drive from central Sandton there’s the newly refurbished Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa where the palatial rooms open out onto private terraces overlooking lush gardens (Alma Rd, Morningside Manor, tel. +27 11 804 2540, www. fairlawns.co.za. 40 rooms). The intimate and chic 54 on Bath has a boutique-hotel feel and a champagne bar. The photographs that decorate the walls were all shot within a few kilometres of the hotel’s location, and show the best of modern Joburg (54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8500, www.tsogosunhotels.com/54-on-bath. 75 rooms).

For more recommended accommodation establishments, see www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com, or download the In Your Pocket Essentials app (iOS and Android).

20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

BOUTIQUE HOTELS The Residence caters to champagne tastes. Choose between an individually designed suite with a private pool or one with an outdoor bath in addition to the indoor one (17 4th Ave, Houghton Estate, tel. +27 11 853 2480, theresidence.co.za. 12 suites). Also in Houghton, Ten Second Ave conjures the feel of a stately country home with an emphasis on gracious living. Nestled into one of Joburg’s older suburbs, the magnificent gardens provide a perfect urban refuge (10 2nd Ave, Houghton Estate, tel. +27 11 853 2400, houghtonestate.com. 15 rooms).

Choose from an array of individually decorated suites at Ten Bompas and try its restaurant, Winehouse, for superb bistro dining (10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2442, www.tenbompas.com. 10 suites). The Peech is a chic modern hideaway set amid lush greenery, belying its close proximity to buzzing shopping and entertainment hub Melrose Arch (61 North St, Melrose, tel. +27 11 537 9797, www.thepeech.co.za. 16 rooms). The atmospheric Satyagraha House has a museum dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi, who lived here in 1908–09, and is a tasteful bubble of tranquillity (15 Pine Road, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, www.satyagrahahouse.com. 7 rooms).

MID-RANGE HOTELS The Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton is the suburb’s oldest hotel, a popular conference venue with lush gardens and two swimming pools (20 Maude St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 322 5000, www.proteahotels.com/balalaika.

330 rooms). At Protea Hotel Fire & Ice! Melrose Arch you’ll find a fresh and fun homage to Hollywood glamour and a bar that serves unforgettable milkshakes (22 Whitely St, Melrose Arch, +27 11 218 4000, www.proteahotels.com/ melrose. 197 rooms). Protea Hotel Parktonian All Suite with its 300 identical one-bedroom suites is a conference destination in the city (C-2, 120 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 5740, www.proteahotels.com/parktonian.

300 suites). The Faircity Quatermain Hotel is a four-star country-lodge style business hotel. Suites are designed for hosting small meetings, each with a comfortable lounge and an espresso machine, and there is a range of conference and meeting facilities. Award-winning Belgian chef Coco Reinharz serves up French-inspired cuisine at Sel Et Poivre, and is known for creating special events and tasting menus (60 West Rd South, Morningside, Sandton, +27 11 290 0900, www.quatermain.co.za. 104 rooms). For golfing fans The Fairway Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort is 11km from Sandton Central with an impressive adjoining 18-hole golf course (Setperk St, Randpark, Randburg, tel. +27 11 478 8000, www.thefairway.co.za). For wild encounters and the great outdoors, Thaba Eco Hotel, set in a nature reserve, offers game walks and drives (Impala Rd, Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve, tel. +27 11 959 0777, www.thabahotel. co.za. 52 rooms), while further afield Maropeng Hotel is a perfect base for exploring the Cradle of Humankind (R400 off R563 to Hekpoort, tel. +27 14 577 9000, www. maropeng.co.za). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay INNER-CITY STAYOVER With neighbourhoods like Braamfontein, Newtown and Maboneng to explore, nightlife, weekend markets, coffee shops, the city’s mining past, art galleries, studios and public art, book a city stay. Enjoy hipster capital Braamfontein’s weekend party atmosphere at The Bannister Hotel, also ideally located for exploring the popular Saturday Neighbourgoods Market, Origins Museum, Wits Art Museum and Constitution Hill. A stylish budget hotel, The Bannister has en suite rooms with plenty of TV channels, wi-fi, and rain showerheads in the bathrooms (C-2/3, 9 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.bannisterhotel.co.za. 32 rooms). Across the Nelson Mandela Bridge is the city’s newest hotel, City Lodge Hotel Newtown, located next to local design emporium Work Shop New Town, the landmark Market Theatre and shopping centre Newtown Junction. This seven-storey three-star hotel has a swimming pool and bistro-style lounge and coffee shop (B-4, cnr Carr and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 10 065 0700, www.clhg.com. 148 rooms).

If it’s happening in Maboneng, Curiocity Backpackers is a perfect location from which to experience the action. At the helm is the charming Bheki Dube, photographer and inner-city aficionado, who runs MainStreetWalks tour company (see Sightseeing). Curiocity hosts live-music events, sky picnics, has a popular bar and braai stand and offers dorms, private rooms and a loft apartment (G-4, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 614 0163, www. curiocitybackpackers.com. 54 beds). A short drive from Maboneng is The Troyeville Hotel with eight newly renovated suites. The hotel is a regular host of the city’s literary set, popular for excellent Portuguese-style ­food, and within walking distance of Emirates Airline Park (also known as Ellis Park). A perfect stop for a post-­match stayover, a pre-­match drink or even watching the rugby game in the bar (1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd, Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 7709, www.troyevillehotel.co.za).

4-star luxury guest house.

Joburg’s no. 1 on TripAdvisor.

Close to Sandton & Rosebank.

www.lizatlancaster.co.za +27 83 229 4223

JOHANNESBURG’S BEST GUESTHOUSES

ARE JUST A CLICK AWAY

www.johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za A range of affordable accommodation options centrally located in and around the suburbs of Rosebank.

SOWETO OVERNIGHT With so much to see and experience, it’s worth spending quality time in Soweto (see Sightseeing). Celebrated Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers has it all: comfy dorms, single or double rooms, or just pitch your tent in the garden. There is a curiocity in your pocket.pdf welcoming courtyard withJoburg a fabulous beach-style bar, and an open-air restaurant in the park. Lebo’s bicycle or tuk-tuk

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tours of Soweto are a must-do activity in this vibrant township (10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobackpackers.com. 22 beds).

For18/04/2016 more on what to07:51 see, where to shop and recommended restaurants in Soweto, see Sightseeing.

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September 2016 – January 2017 21

Where to eat

Urbanologi at Mad Giant, 1 Fox Precinct Joburg offers everything, from pavement dining to five-star gourmet cuisine, and we strive to highlight the best taste experiences we have found.

CONTEMPORARY DINING In recent years inventive chefs (many of them from elsewhere) and the availability of excellent local produce have combined to put the South African fine-dining scene firmly on the world map. What’s more, South Africa’s weak currency means international visitors get great value on those extravagant tasting menus offered at the city’s top restaurants. Bookings absolutely essential.

URBANOLOGI NEW This restaurant in the historic neighbourhood of Ferreirasdorp is Joburg’s sexiest new space. Serving up what formerly Cape Town-based chef Angelo Scirocco calls ‘urban garde’ food, Urbanologi is located in the fabulous industrial space of Mad Giant brewery at 1 Fox Precinct (see our feature Main Street’s gold rush). Scirocco serves up a tapas menu using Asianinspired ingredients and Japanese street-food styles, all exquisitely plated and with sublime flavours. The dishes are of course designed to complement Mad Giant’s craft beers (see Nightlife), so the experience is one of a tasting menu. On the dessert menu be racy and opt for the plate containing the dark-beer gateau.

Q1 Fox St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 11 492 1399, www.urbanologi.co.za. Open 12:00–15:45 and 19:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–16:45. R-RRR. Corkage R60.

UEBLW 22 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

MARBLE NEW The heart of star chef David Higgs’s much-anticipated rooftop restaurant is the live-fire grill in the open kitchen, the spectacular flames cooking up everything from meats and seafood to freshly baked bread. This 250-seater restaurant, with a lounge and bar separated by a gorgeous glass wine cellar, offers surprisingly intimate seating and a wraparound balcony with a view. Impressive artworks, a turquoise ceramic-tiled wall and light wooden floors give the impression of being suspended in a cabin in the sky.Q19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5550, http://marble. restaurant. Open 12:00–22:00. UB EB SOCIAL KITCHEN & BAR A bookstore, coffee house, bar and restaurant with expansive treeline views. There’s an emphasis on farm-to-fork dining and all the ingredients have been meticulously sourced.

Award-winning Australian chef Russell Armstrong’s sophisticated small-plates menu is designed for sharing.QExclusive Books, Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 6039. Open 12:00–21:00, Sun 12:00–16:00 (light menu only between 15:00– 17:00). RRR. UL THE LEOPARD A small menu of innovative dishes using seasonal ingredients. Chef and owner Andrea Burgener’s quirky style is simultaneously cool yet comforting, international and authentic.

French and Italian-inspired dishes sit side by side with fresh Asian flavours and African culinary classics.Q63A 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9356, leopardfoodcompany.com.

Open 17:00–23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–23:00. Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R50–R70. For pre-2006 wines R25. B johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat LUKE DALE-ROBERTS X SAXON NEW This extraordinary fine-dining experience is a partnership between The Saxon Hotel and star chef Luke Dale-Roberts of Cape Town’s The Test Kitchen (ranked 28th in the World’s Top 50 Restaurants). You’ll need to book well in advance for what is an unforgettable evening where dinner is an eight-course tasting menu of beautifully plated and marvellously complex dishes served with your choice of a luxury tea or wine pairing. Allow yourself several hours to savour the outstanding service, the unique combination of flavours and cheeky wine pairings at this intimate and luxurious dining destination.

QThe Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, www.saxon.co.za. Open 18:30–24:00 (last reservations 20:30). Closed Sun, Mon. Eight-course tasting menu, R1 330; with tea pairing, R1 600, local wines R1 900, international wines R2 100. UL ONENINEONE With its open kitchen and decor inspired by Joburg’s jacaranda blooms, the Hyatt Regency’s restaurant offers stylish contemporary cuisine fusing local and international flavours.

Book the intimate private dining room in the wine cellar (holding around 170 labels) and on any afternoon head to the garden terrace, an excellent refuge, or the lounge, a popular meeting spot (see p. 25 for our interview with executive sous chef Shaneil Dinna).Q191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. + 27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Open for breakfast 06:30–10:30, Sat 06:30–11:00, lunch and dinner 12:00–22:00. Sun breakfast only. RRR. UBL WINEHOUSE The decor is chic bistro, the setting warm, the service personalised. Fans of fine dining will enjoy chef Johannes de Bruijn’s unfussy approach and budget-friendly menus.

Winehouse is named for the singer and for its extensive wine collection – mostly South African with some French labels that includes limited auction editions.QTen Bompas Hotel, 10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 325 2442, www.tenbompas-restaurant.co.za. Open for breakfast 06:30–11:00, lunch 12:00–15:00, dinner 18:30–22:00. No dinner Sun. Three-course dinner menu from R355 per person. UW

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Wheelchair-friendly

L Guarded parking

B Outdoor seating

E Live music

W Wi-fi

S Takeaways

PRICE KEY R = Less than R70 RR = R71–R110 RRR = R111–R160 RRRR = Take out a loan * Main course average price. No prices for cafés given.

Generally Thursday to Saturday nights require bookings, and some restaurants close on Mondays.

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September 2016 – January 2017 23

Where to eat AN A-Z OF SA FOOD Amadombolo Zulu-style steamed dumpling breads Amagwinya Known as vetkoek in Afrikaans, these fried dough balls are similar in size and shape to a doughnut Biltong Coriander-marinated dried meat (usually beef or sometimes game) originating from Boer culture but consumed widely by all South Africans Bobotie Beef or lamb mince bake, studded with dried apricots and topped with savoury custard. A Cape Malay, Afrikaner and Middle Eastern fusion Boerewors Literally ‘farmers’ sausage’ in Afrikaans. Beef and coriander sausage Braai South African term for barbeque Bunny chow Developed by South Africans of Indian origin. Curry is placed inside a hollowed-out loaf of bread.

There are no rabbits involved. The term ‘bunny’ is derived from the Gujarati word ‘bhania’, meaning ‘trader class’ Chakalaka Township vegetable and curry relish Droëwors ‘Dry sausage’ in Afrikaans, based on traditional boerewors but made in a thinner casing Inhloko isiZulu term for a slow-braised cow’s head. Not to be confused with a smiley Koeksister Afrikaner-style deep-fried, syrup-dipped plaited dough Kota Township sandwich of a hollowed-out quarter bread loaf filled with meats, chips, cheeses and pickles Malva pudding Derived from the Afrikaans term ‘malvalekker’, meaning marshmallow. Syrup-drenched marshmallow-textured baked pudding with apricot jam Mealie Afrikaans word for a corn cob or maize plant Morogo SeSotho term for wild leafy vegetables Mogudu SeSotho term for tripe. Commonly braised with onion and salt Pap Refers to maize porridge of various sorts Piri-piri Mozambican and Angolan olive oil, garlic and chilli marinade. Peri-peri is South African emulsified chilli sauce Potjiekos Afrikaans term for stews made in a cast iron, three-legged pot (known as a ‘potjie’) over an open fire Russian Cheap, fine-textured pork or beef-based sausage. Originally sold on the gold mines to African migrant mineworkers by 19th-century Eastern European immigrants Samp Dried, coarsely-broken corn. Known in Afrikaans as stampmielies Shisa nyama (also spelt chisa nyama) Township braai/ steak house usually with a butchery attached. Customers choose meat raw and sometimes cook it themselves Slap tjips Thick, fried potato chips sold as takeaways wrapped in paper Smiley Roasted sheep’s head. During roasting lips retract exposing the animal’s teeth and making it appear to smile ​Umngqusho Xhosa-style maize and bean mélange Walkie talkies Spiced, grilled chicken feet — Compiled by Anna Trapido 24 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Bergbron Plaaskombuis en Padstal, Northcliff

SOUTH AFRICAN South African cuisine is a term that covers many different styles of cooking including typical Afrikaner boerekos, Cape Malay-style food with its mix of local and eastern spices, the South African-Indian hybrid curry, the bunny chow, and of course the South African braai (barbecue), also known as shisa nyama in township parlance. Eating a perfectly grilled cut of meat served with traditional sides like pap and chakalaka is as South African a meal as you can find.

BERGBRON PLAASKOMBUIS EN PADSTAL A homely farm kitchen and shop set on an old-fashioned stoep (a wide veranda) overlooking a garden centre. Everything is made according to traditional family recipes. Wash down hearty, rustic dishes like pies, stews and homemade sausages with a glass of refreshing ginger beer or the demonically strong moerkoffie.QCnr Bergbron Dr and Helderberg Rd, Bergbron, Northcliff, tel. +27 76 932 4333. Open 07:30–16:30 (kitchen closes at 16:00), Sun 07:30–15:00 (kitchen closes at 14:30). Closed Mon. R. TBSL CURRY AND ALL This takeaway spot specialises in a limited range of delicious traditional Durban-style Indian curries sold with rice, in traditional roti rolls or in bunny chows as well as biryanis (served with dhal and salad). Prices are low, portions are huge, service is super-friendly and there’s often a lunchtime queue. Limited seating available.QBehind Shell Garage, Cnr Rivonia Rd and South Rd, Morningside, Sandton, tel. +27 84 603 2466. Open 10:00–21:00. Closed Sun. R. Note payment is by card only. SBL DISTRICT SIX EATERY The food and colourful backdrop celebrate the friendly owner’s childhood in District Six, a vibrant Cape Town neighbourhood destroyed by apartheid. Indian Ocean spices find their local expression in a small menu of traditional dishes such as bredie (stew), bobotie and curries.

Q35 Greenhill Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 486 7226, districtsixeatery.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00– 15:30. Closed Mon. RR-RRR. Corkage R45. UESB johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat STEAKS AND GRILLHOUSES THE BULL RUN This elegant old building, attached to Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton, was once a countryside tea room. Today it retains the atmosphere of a relaxed oasis in the heart of Joburg’s business district. The Bull Run is serious about offering exceptional meat and the restaurant has an in-house butchery. There’s also an excellent selection of vintage brandies, whiskies, cognac and port.Q20 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 1400, www.bullrun.co.za. Open 12:00– 22:30, Sat 17:00–22:30. RRR. Corkage R50.LBSW CHE ARGENTINE GRILL The location is an atmospheric old warehouse lit by candles and with a shabby-chic decor that mixes urban and rustic elements. Argentine-style steaks cooked on a wood-fired parilla, homemade chimichurri sauce and silky dulce de leche desserts are the highlights.QG-4, 303 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel +27 82 469 0290, cheargentinegrill.co.za. Open 10:00–23:00. Closed Mon. RRR. EL THE LOCAL GRILL Friendly and efficient service, wooden floors and streamlined decor – this place is a shrine to red meat. Devotees can enter the meat locker to choose from lazy-dry or wetaged meat, ribs, or ground beef burgers. The emphasis is on field to fork eating, grain-fed and grass-fed beef best enjoyed with one of the top-class South African wines from the wine cellar.QCnr 7th Ave and 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 880 1946, www.localgrill.co.za. Open lunch 12:00–15:30, dinner 18:00–22:00. Only open for lunch on Sun. RRR. L THE POTATO SHED This steampunk-BBQ-smokehouse restaurant in a century-old building in revitalised Newtown, is an excellent pre-theatre dinner and drinks venue. The humble potato is king here, and meat lovers can look forward to mouthwatering slow-roasted meats such as the ribs: a combo platter that includes cola-and-pineapple-basted beef from the fire pit and slow-braised short rib from the embers and ashes. Bring a big appetite.QB-4, Newtown Junction, cnr Gwigwi Mrwebi and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 10 590 6133, www.thepotatoshed.com. Open 12:00–22:30, Sun, Mon 11:30–16:30. RRRR. Corkage R65.

ULBW TURN ‘N TENDER This steakhouse chain is popular for its consistently tasty basted steaks and an excellent selection of sides. Swift and friendly service accompany the sizzling platters and there’s a respectable offering for fish-eaters and vegetarians. The atmosphere is easygoing and there are regular lunchtime specials. Also at Thrupps Illovo Centre and Village View Centre (Bedfordview).QParktown Quarter, 22 3rd Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 788 7933, www.turnntender. co.za. Open 11:30–22:00. Kitchen may close by 21:00 on Sun. RRR. Corkage R40. ULBS facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

CHEF TALK: SHANEIL DINNA When Shaneil Dinna, executive sous chef at Hyatt Regency Johannesburg, told school mates his plans to become a chef, they asked, ‘Do you think you’ll get a job?’

Celebrating his 34th birthday in December, Dinna has worked in top hotel kitchens across South Africa but chefdom was not then the coveted career it is today. Recall, if you can, a time before the cooking channel, Jamie Oliver and Masterchef. ‘Now’, he says, ‘I can be sitting at a table with an astronaut and a surgeon, and when people hear what I do they immediately want to talk recipes’. We managed to get him out of his busy kitchen at Hyatt Regency’s oneNINEone (see p. 23) restaurant to find out more about him.

The first thing I ever made were scones from my mother’s recipe. At the time I was in grade 6.

The most important thing to learn about being a hotel chef is how to coordinate many daily activities to ensure it all runs smoothly. We have a team of 15 chefs at Hyatt Regency taking care of the restaurant, conferencing, lounge, bar and room service.

What you need to know about being a chef is that it is all about service. A culture of service is not about being a servant but about enjoying seeing other people made happy from the work you do.

What you need to understand about eating is that it’s a social experience. You don’t ever enjoy eating as much alone as you do when you are socialising.

My most recent inspiration is Korean food, from a recent trip to Perth where I went to promote South African cuisine.

Our menu has some Asian-style dishes but we emphasise locally inspired dishes and farmed ingredients. We change our menu each season. Supporting sustainable fishing, using organic meat and produce from local farms are part of the Hyatt Regency’s ethical practices.

What I love about working with food is seeing the joy that people get from it. Our kitchen at oneNINEone is open to the restaurant so you can see it on people’s faces when they are loving their meal.

Joburg is an exciting food destination because you can experience so many different tastes from the best Mexican churros at a food market to fantastic Ethiopian dishes, Turkish or Middle Eastern food.

The tattoo on my arm is the sign of Ohm, the sacred sound of the universe being quiet.

September 2016 – January 2017 25

Where to eat RED CHAMBER Chef Emma Chen serves up a range of unforgettable Mandarin-style dishes striving for a harmony of taste, texture, colour and aroma with a strict no-MSG policy. Famous for spicy cucumber salad with chilli and garlic, Peking Duck and sizzling plates.QHyde Park Corner, Cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 6048, www. redchamber.co.za. Open 12:30–22:30. RR. L YAMATO The much-awarded Yamato serves elegant and traditional Japanese food with polite service. The superior sushi and sashimi menu is more than a few cuts above your average conveyor belt and other highlights include the perfect gyoza dumplings and light tempura dishes. Solemn atmosphere but what a combination of flavours!QIllovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0511, www.yamato.co.za. Open for lunch Mon–Thu 12:00– 14:30, Fri–Sun and public holidays 12:00–15:00, dinner Mon–Thu 18:00–21:00, Fri–Sat 18:00–21:45, Sun and public holidays 18:00–20:30. SL Banchan, Parkmore

ASIAN BANCHAN NEW At this petite and unassuming family-run Korean restaurant every detail is intended to be as authentic as possible. The tofu and kimchi is homemade, the wine list consists only of traditional drinks like soju and gamju, everything comes served with complimentary banchan (a selection of side dishes) and upon arrival you’ll be greeted with a bow by the sweetest of hostesses. Bring a group and tuck into a traditional Korean barbecue or drop by for a quick lunch of comforting ramen or spicy bibimbap.QCnr 10th St and Elizabeth St, Parkmore, tel. +27 72 913 3269. Open Mon 17:00–21:00, Tue–Fri 11:30–14:30 and 17:00–21:00, Sat 10:30–21:00. Closed Sun. RR. GOOD LUCK CLUB The sister establishment of friendly Wolves Café, at night this noisy little café-style joint is a popular hangout for craft beer-drinking young professionals. The menu is a mix of Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese styles and is complemented by a sweet selection from the café next door. Highlights include the satisfying dim sum selection and the signature crispy twice fried beef.Q3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 3816, thegoodluckclub.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. Closed Mon. RR. BW GREAT EASTERN FOOD BAR Dim sum, gyoza dumplings and delicious coconut ramen are just a few of the tricks up the chef’s sleeves. Much like the menu the setting is pared down and subtle – a boxy wood interior laid out across a Melville rooftop and overlooking the delightful greenery of the Melville Koppies.

QBamboo, cnr 9th St and Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 2910. Open 12:00–23:00, Mon 18:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. RR. L 26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

WARM & GLAD NEW Japanese, Korean and Thai influences dominate at this contemporary, casual restaurant. It has an excellent wine list and a courtyard in the back that’s perfect for warm evenings. Everything is proudly handmade, including the famous ramen that comes served in a heady broth packed with flavour. Other highlights include pork buns, Korean fried chicken and a seared tuna salad. A good place if Asianstyle breakfasts are to your taste.Q357 Jan Smuts Ave (cnr St Alban’s Rd), Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 326 0786, www. warmandglad.com. Open 08:00–22:30. Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R50. SBL

BURGER BARS BGR Two Americans missed the taste of home so much that they decided to open a burger joint, which has recently been relocated from a petrol station forecourt to the new Trumpet building on Keyes Art Mile in Rosebank. Service is fast and friendly and the fare is playfully referred to as retro-engineered Shake Shack-style. They even imported the same grill. Ground beef patties, no basting and basic toppings, plus shakes, fries and frozen custard.Q19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 593 4545, www.eatBGR.com.

Open 11:00–20:30. R. SB DUKES BURGERS They bake their own buns, pound their own patties and make memorable saucy relishes. The busy bar area leading onto the street and a roomy and sheltered courtyard out back make it easy to linger. The selection of toppings seems endless. Generous portions and lots of vegan options.

Q14 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 11 486 0824, www.dukesburgers.co.za. Open Sun–Tue 11:30–21:00, Wed,Thu 11:30–22:00, Fri, Sat 11:30–22:30. RR. Corkage R60, wine only. BW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat GARDENS AND COURTYARDS With excellent warm weather and blue skies for most of spring and summer (and the occasional glorious afternoon thundershower) settle yourself in at one of our picks of the best gardens and courtyards in which to enjoy a meal.

27BOXES This landmark boutique shopping centre made entirely from shipping containers is an interesting place to pick up some snacks on-the-go with cute container stalls selling homemade ice-creams, milkshakes, smoothies and waffles that little kids will love, plus a night market on Wednesdays. There’s a large outdoor amphitheatre area where you can sit and eat your snacks, plus a kids’ playground.Q75 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 712 0000, www.27boxes.co.za. Open 09:00– 17:00, Sun 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. TBL

ICE-CREAM & MILKSHAKES CRAFT Home of the wildly decadent ‘freakshake’. Presented like a work of art, these massive jars purr seductively at you to ignore the day’s worth of calories you are about to digest. More filling than dessert (you might want to just share one), they overflow with brownies, chocolate fudge, candy floss, ice-cream, cookies and the rest of the local candy store.Q33 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 788 7111, craftrestaurant.co.za. Open 07:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00–23:00, Sun 07:00–21:00.

TBW PAUL’S HOMEMADE ICE-CREAM What started out as a hobby has grown into a fullyfledged local brand stocked by many restaurants and with a scooping store in Rosebank and Sandton. Here you’ll find the most amazing ice-cream flavours and combinations like roasted banana, peppermint crisp tart and birthday cake ice cream, made with a cookie dough taste redolent of parties you loved as a kid. There are also carb-free and dairy-free options.QThe Zone@ Rosebank, (ground floor passageway), 117 Oxford Rd, tel. +27 11 485 0104, paulshomemade.com.

Open 09:00–21:00, Sat 09:00–22:00, Sun 10:00– 22:00. TLS THE MILKSHAKE BAR Joburg’s original milkshake bar with almost 50 different combinations to choose from including Rocky Road, Oreo and everyone’s favourite Ferrero Rocher, as well as alcoholic shakes. The consistency is the optimal combination of thick and frothy and the pool deck is the perfect place to enjoy your shake. Note that this is a milkshake bar for grown-ups, no under 23s are allowed.

QProtea Hotel Fire and Ice! Melrose Arch, 22 Whitely St, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 218 4000, www.proteahotels.com/melrose. Open 06:30–22:00. UBW 28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

DELTA CAFÉ This small café in a carefully converted old cottage looks out over the lush Delta Park. With stables on its doorstep, a jungle gym in the garden and a dedicated kids menu, this is an ideal hangout for families. The menu is full of simple and light lunchtime favourites such as salads, sandwiches and tuna fishcakes, or order the satisfying boiled egg and soldiers.Q20 Marlborough Rd, Craighall Park (entrance via garden centre), tel. +27 79 482 5286. Open 08:00–17:00.

Closed Mon. RR. T6BL OLIVES & PLATES NEW A university campus might not be first choice for an elegant lunch, but this chic café in a quaint Cape Dutch-style house is not your usual student hangout. In spring the quiet courtyard is surrounded by blooming rose bushes, and the extensive menu includes plenty of vegetarian options and delectable cakes. A 15-minute uphill walk from the café is Origins Centre (see Sightseeing).QA-1, Wits University West Campus, Empire Rd (north gate entrance Yale Rd), Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 9365, www.olivesandplates.co.za. Open 08:00–19:00. RR. BL

SalvationCafé, Milpark

SALVATIONCAFÉ This busy café at 44 Stanley is surrounded by fashionable stores and its tables flow onto a covered veranda and picturesque courtyard. Excellent menu options turn your morning meal into a memorable experience with a choice of healthy, sweet and savoury, plus breakfast burritos. The kids’ menu makes adults envious and for lunch there’s a good selection of salads, sandwiches and wraps.

Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 7795, www. salvationcafe.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00 (kitchen closes at 15:00). Closed Mon. RR. Corkage from R60. B THE WESTCLIFF DELI A stylish destination in one of the city’s swankiest hotels for great coffee or a quick lunch. For a novel and indulgent treat pre-order a takeaway picnic basket (from R495 per person) to be enjoyed at one of the hotel’s recommended picnic spots.

QFour Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 481 6000, www.fourseasons.com/ johannesburg. Open 06:00–21:00. BL johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat FRENCH Start the day with the perfect croissant and a strong cup of coffee. Treat yourself to authentic croissants, pain au chocolat or French toast at the French Corner bakery (277 Main Rd, Cramerview Shopping Centre, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 463 5808, www.frenchcornerbakery.co.za. Open 07:00– 17:00, Sat 07:00–15:00, Sun 07:00–13:00) or at Patisserie de Paris (8 Mackay Ave, Blairgowrie, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 0913, www.patisseriedeparis.co.za. Open 08:00–17:30, Sat, Sun 08:00–14:00. Closed Mon).

BISTRO MICHEL Inspired by flavours from his grandmother’s kitchen in Lyon, Michel Morand’s bistro is one of Joburg’s leading French restaurants. The setting is leather banquettes, brass finishes and wooden chairs and tables. Service is top notch and on the menu are rich Gallic classics that make use of seasonal, locally-sourced ingredients, plus a plat du jour lunch menu.

QBluBird Shopping Centre, cnr Atholl-Oaklands Rd and Fort St, Birnam, tel. +27 11 440 0769, www.bistromichel. co.za. Open dinner Mon–Sat from 18:00, lunch Tue–Sun from 12:00. RRR. ULBW

GREEK PAREA A lively taverna serving Greek fare since 1993. Their wideranging menu includes a large selection of meze dishes, roasted fish specialities and other standard Greek fare like kleftiko and souvlakia. From 21:30 on Fridays and Saturdays the restaurant hots up with Greek dancing, belly-dancers and smashing crockery. This is a popular place to celebrate birthdays. If you prefer a quieter meal, get there early.

Q3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 8785, www.parea. co.za. Open Open 11:00–late. RR. BS SOUL SOUVLAKI An authentic Greek souvlaki stop based in a cleverly reconstructed shipping container in Maboneng. The roof deck is a popular place to sit and eat, and in the late afternoon it transforms into a cool bar with good tunes from which to watch the sun set.QG-4, 18 Albrecht St (cnr Fox St), Maboneng, tel. +27 72 3000 896. Open 10:00–17:00, Sundays 10:00–18:00. Café on the deck opens 07:30. RR. Corkage R50. SBL

ITALIAN TORTELLINO D’ORO This cosy family-run eatery with polished service also operates a busy deli where you can stock up on pricey necessities like Tortellino’s signature melanzane and spinach malfatti (dumplings of ricotta cheese and spinach). There’s excellent pasta, veal and fillet dishes and dessert will have you wishing you had left more space.QOaklands Shopping Centre, cnr Pretoria and Victoria Sts, Oaklands, tel. +27 11 483 1249, www.tortellino.co.za. Open 09:00– 22:00, Sun, public holidays 09:00–15:00. RRR. TBL facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

STELLE Inspired by northern Italian cuisine, chef Alda Porelli and baker Tony Graziero serve traditional favourites and regularly devise new dishes at this friendly restaurant.

Pastas are light and homemade with seasonal accompaniments. For a big gathering opt for the covered patio.Q62 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 6996. www.stellerestaurant.co.za. Open 18:00–22:30, Fri, Sat 12:30–16:00 and 18:00–22:30. Closed Sun, Mon. RR. Corkage R50. BL

MIDDLE EASTERN EAT YOUR HEART OUT The decor of this intimate Israeli-inspired eatery is a collaboration between innovative T-shirt designer Love Jozi and top fashion label Black Coffee. Try the latkes (potato rostis) with a range of toppings or the excellent shawarma salad paired with a freshly pressed juice.QG-4, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, tel. +27 72 586 0600, www.eatyourheartout.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00. Sat, Sun 07:30–18:00.

Closed Mon. R. LSBW TURKISH SHAWARMA & GRILL This is a great value, down-to-earth family-run restaurant on Melville’s buzzing main street. The extensive menu is all halaal and includes grilled meats, shawarmas, kofta and kebabs, freshly baked breads and a range of tasty salads and dips which you can mix and match. Order a grilled platter to share and there’ll be plenty left over for home time. An excellent value-for-money spot.QCnr 7th St and 3rd Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 1125, Open 11:30–21:00, Fri– Sun 11:30–22:00. R. SB

PORTUGUESE RADIUM BEER HALL Although the area surrounding this characterful Victorian pub has seen better days, it’s worth the effort for a slice of Joburg history. Opened in 1929 as a tea room and secret shebeen, nowadays the Radium is famous for it big platters of mouth-watering Portuguese food including peri-peri chicken and giant grilled prawns, plus live jazz and blues on the weekends. Dinner bookings recommended.Q282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, www.theradium.co.za. Open 10:00–23:30, Sat 11:00 until last guest. Closed Sun. Admission R50–R80 on some performance nights. RR. E September 2016 – January 2017 29

Where to eat MEXICAN

The Troyeville Hotel, Troyeville

THE TROYEVILLE HOTEL The unfussy Portuguese cuisine with a Mozambican influence never disappoints here. This authentically dated hotel in the edgy neighbourhood of Troyeville has a lot of cred with local political activists, artists and musicians, and also hosts regular book evenings. There’s a regular crowd of barflies, and it’s an excellent place to watch a game or to eat before rugby matches at the Emirates Airline Park.QH-3, 1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd (cnr Wilhelmina St), Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 7709, www.troyevillehotel.co.za. Open 09:00– 22:00. ​Guarded parking at the rear entrance. RR. BE

PIZZA ANDICCIO 24 This chain of pizza joints does takeaways and free deliveries but you can also stop by and eat your pizza at the store.

It may be fast food, but you can never go wrong with an Andiccio’s pizza. The menu lets you choose as many toppings in whatever combination you prefer – do as South Africans do and order avocado on your pizza.QCnr Grant Ave and Ivy Rd, Norwood, tel. +27 11 483 2424. Open 12:00–24:00. R-RR. SBW ANT CAFÉ The legendary Ant Café on Melville’s 7th Street strip is an eclectic and intimate spot that is a local institution. With characterful decor and no space left uncovered by memorabilia and items of curiosity, it has the feel of a moodily lit artist’s den. It also has a studenty clientele, most evident in the cheesiness of its pizzas. Bookings recommended.Q11 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 76 476 5671. Open 12:00–24:00.

RR. Corkage R45. NSB CHALKBOARD CAFÉ Who needs decor when the walls are lined top to bottom with blackboards and even the tables can be scribbled on?

A great little spot for craft beer and pizza before or after a film or gig at the adjoining independent cinema, The Bioscope (see What’s On).Q286 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 039 7306, www.chalkboardcafe.co.za. Open 11:00– late. R-RR. B In late December and early January, many Joburg restaurants and cafés close, so best call ahead.

30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

BAHA TACO NEW This colourful casual taqueria started out as a market stall.

Specialising in Mexican street food this is a cutlery-free zone, where you’ll find a menu of freshly-pressed tortillas filled with delicious bites of medium rare skirt steak, prawn, haloumi and vegetables, or pulled pork. Everything here is full of spicy goodness. Finish the meal with churros accompanied by velvety dark-chocolate sauce. Unlicensed.

QShop 3 Tarquin House, 38 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. + 27 76 694 7400. Open 12:00–21:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. NB PERRON The frozen margaritas, festive atmosphere and a neon bright interior that spills seamlessly out onto the street, are the main attractions at this perennially busy neighbourhood hangout. The extensive menu strives for originality (no fajitas here). Highlights include the popcorn polo taco, the spicy pork belly and the chilli cheese poppers.QIllovo Junction (cnr Corlett Dr and Oxford Rd), Illovo, tel. +27 11 880 7296, www.perron.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:00 until last guest, Sun 12:00–16:00. RR. B

NEIGHBOURHOODS FORDSBURG Rich in history and with a fantastically diverse population from across the Middle East and the Indian sub-continent, Fordsburg is a collision of bold colour, spicy streets and enticing flavours. Along Central Road, between Albertina Sisulu Rd and Lilian Ngoyi St – particularly lively on Saturday nights when there’s a street market – there are lots of good choices including the Turkish restaurant Istanbul (52 Central Rd, tel +27 11 056 5749. Open 11:30–21:00, Sat, Sun 11:30–22:00), the casual sit-in or takeaway spot Dosa Hut (48 Central Rd, tel. +27 11 492 1456/9. Open 10:00–21:30) and the sweetmeats bakery Shalimar Delights with the biggest selection of colourful treats (228 Albertina Sisulu Rd, tel. +27 11 832 1675. Open 09:00–21:00). In the neighbouring streets order your Friday biryani at Bismillah’s (78 Mint Rd, +27 11 838 8050. Open 09:00–23:00), and sample many flavours at the World of Samoosas kiosk in Fordsburg’s famous shopping bazaar Oriental Plaza (38-60 Lilian Ngoyi St, www.orientalplaza.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, closed Sun). A predominantly Muslim area, many stores close for Friday prayers between 12:00 and 14:00. Most restaurants do not serve alcohol.

NEW CHINATOWN A pair of impressive archways mark the entrances to Derrick Avenue in Cyrildene, Joburg’s New Chinatown. This street is unmistakably Asian, with its Chinese supermarkets, vegetable stalls, karaoke parlour, tea shop, acupuncturists and dozens of restaurants showcasing a diversity of predominantly Chinese food. Adventurous eaters will have fun deciphering untranslated menus. For the best shuijiao (boiled dumplings) look for North Dumplings (13 Derrick johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat NEAR O.R. TAMBO Before you pass through security at O.R. Tambo International Airport, you’ll find the usual selection of fast-food restaurants. However, if you have time to spare, why not venture out of the airport and enjoy a relaxed al fresco lunch in the suburbs of Bedfordview and Edenvale, a few kilometres away. Dubbed ‘Joburg’s Little Italy’, culinary traditions continue to thrive here with plenty of family-run trattorias and delis.

Shalimar Delights, Fordsburg

Ave) and for seafood and Taiwanese-style cooking grab a table at Fisherman’s Plate (tel. +27 11 622 0480). Chinese Northern Foods (tel. +27 72 030 9414 – also at 369 Rivonia Blvd, Rivonia) serves exotically described foods like ‘little sheep in oil’ with heaps of garlic. The award-winning Sai Thai (14 Derrick Ave, tel. +27 11 615 1339) is your stop for Thai cuisine and pop by Betty Wu’s tiny bubble tea shop Simplicity (cnr Marcia St) for authentic pearl milk tea.

4TH AVENUE, PARKHURST Coffee shops, cafés, fashion boutiques and interior design stores fill the pavements of Parkhurst’s quaint village-like 4th Avenue. A great place to window shop or sit on a terrace with a cappuccino and watch the suburb’s well-dressed residents and their dogs stroll by. For decadent milkshakes there’s Craft (see p. 28), for a coffee on the go try 4th Avenue Roasters (p. 32), and for weekend lunches find a place on the lively terrace at Espresso Café (p. 33). You’ll find the local hipsters with their craft beers and gourmet burgers filling up The Wolfpack (21 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 7705, www.thewolfpack.co.za. Open 12:00–24:00, Sun 12:00–20:00. Closed Mon), and for the best Italian food on the street make a booking at the gorgeous art decostyled Café del Sol TRE, a recently opened restaurant that brought a dedicated following from its other branches (cnr 4th Ave and 13th St, tel. +27 11 568 1063, www.cafedelsol. co.za. Open 08:00–21:30, Sun 08:00–17:00. Closed Mon).

SANDTON CITY AND NELSON MANDELA SQUARE For a break from shopping in Sandton City, we recommend Krunch and Deli One for their fresh and healthy menus.

Adjoining the mall, Nelson Mandela Square, watched over by a gigantic statue of Nelson Mandela, is a tourist hotspot. The complex was renovated in 2015, replacing tired old tourist traps on the piazza with some genuinely excellent cafés and restaurants. Our favourites are The Big Mouth with its slick art deco-style interiors and noteworthy seafood and sushi menu (+27 63 293 8869, www. thebigmouth.co.za. Open 12:00–23:00, Sun 12:00–22:00), and Tashas, an elegant café and restaurant boasting an extensive Mediterranean-inspired menu, fabulous cocktails and an inimitable air of African glamour (+27 11 883 0389.

Open 07:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00–22:30, Sun 07:00–21:30.

See Shopping for address details). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

VILLAGE VIEW Located in upmarket Bedfordview, just 13km from the airport, Village View centre is a popular destination for eating, drinking, pampering and socialising, and is the perfect place to pass a few hours. There’s a range of well-regarded upmarket restaurant and café chains to choose from, including a branch of the chic café-restaurant Tashas, known for their fresh and healthy meal options and good wine selection, Vovo Telo artisanal bakery and café, fine-dining Mediterranean restaurant Pigalle, Erawan for Thai food and a Turn ‘n Tender steakhouse (see p. 25). You’ll also find top fashion stores as well as Sorbet salon for all your beauty needs.QCnr Kloof and Van Buuren Rds, Bedfordview, www.villageview.co.za. Open daily.

CREMALAT Cremalat houses an Italian restaurant, La Cucina @ Cremalat, a cheese factory and an Italian deli, all set within a large, faux-Tuscan building in a nondescript office park. The cheese and pastas are homemade and portions are more than generous. Bookings recommended.QGreenhills Industrial Estate, Sam Green Rd, Tunney Ext 6, Germiston, tel. +27 11 822 8320, www.cremalat.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:00– 14:00. Closed Sun. RR. SBL DA GRAZIELLA On Sunday afternoons this place is packed with Italian families sitting at long tables piled high with traditional dishes. Run by a Sicilian brother-and-sister team, the service is welcoming and there’s an excellent range of choices on the menu.Q74 Dunvegan Ave, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 454 6202, www.dagraziella.co.za. Open 12:00–15:30 and 18:00–21:30, Sun 12:00–15:30. RRRRR. S INTERCONTINENTAL JOHANNESBURG O.R. TAMBO This premier 24hr airport hotel, decorated with interesting African flourishes, is 68.7m from the arrivals terminal, making it a convenient place to pass an hour or two within walking distance of the airport. Float your cares away in the spa’s swimming pool with a superb view of the runways, or opt for drinks on the deck.QTel. +27 11 961 5400, www.ihg.com.

September 2016 – January 2017 31

Where to eat BEAN THERE South Africa’s first roaster of Certified Fairtrade coffee sources its single origin unblended coffee from Rwanda, Tanzania, Ethiopia, and Kenya. The minimalist decor of the store is perfect for savouring the smell of freshly roasted beans.Q44 Stanley, Cnr Stanley Ave and Owl St, Milpark, tel. +27 87 310 3100, www.beanthere.co.za. Open 07:30–16:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 09:00–12:00. Closed public holidays.

BSLW

Father Coffee, Braamfontein

COFFEE Coffee is not just a drink, it’s a lifestyle and this city really knows a thing or two about making a decent brew. While there are many big chains, small independent coffee shops still dominate. If you enjoy coffee, a bag of locally roasted coffee beans makes the perfect souvenir.

4TH AVENUE ROASTERS The beans are freshly roasted and the coffee is worth writing home about. This is a hip little spot where the neighbourhood denizens drop by with pampered mutts (who are catered for with their own doggie water bowls) for a quick espresso. Tables outside offer a great vantage point to watch the posh people of Parkhurst strut their stuff.QThe Cobbles, cnr 4th Ave and 11th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 78 622 1107, www.4thavenuecoffee.co.za. Open 07:00– 18:00, Sat 08:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–17:00. 6SBL

ROSEBANK CAFÉS Perfectly positioned between Sandton and the City Centre and with its own Gautrain station, Rosebank is one of the most popular areas in Joburg for business and leisure. Sparkling new upscale apartment blocks are steadily filling the skyline and nearby, one block from the corner of Jan Smuts and Jellicoe Avenues, a new art-focused development, Keyes Art Mile, has started taking shape. Rosebank’s busy pedestrianised shopping precinct, with its shopping arcade The Zone and the extensive Rosebank Mall, hums with a diverse crowd who come to shop and hang out. Local coffee chains to try include Motherland Coffee Company, a popular venue for casual early morning meetings, and Father Coffee (both in the Zone@Rosebank), or there’s the stylish coffee bar at the Exclusive Books store in Rosebank Mall which serves quite simply the best flat whites around. Popular global brands include the coffee giant Starbucks, and for dessert join the queue at the American donut chain Krispy Kreme.

For a leisurely lunch with some local wine, grab a seat on the terrace at Tashas or The Patisserie (all within the Zone@Rosebank).

32 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

FATHER COFFEE A blond-wood hole-in-the-wall temple to aesthetics and font design this coffee shop only seats a few people, but there’s plenty of leaning space on the counter and a bench outside for a view of one of Braamfontein’s trendiest streets.

The beans are roasted on-site, and you can buy a bag of the best to take home. Also at The Zone@Rosebank.Q73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 82 513 4258, www.fathercoffee.co.za. Open 08:00–16:00, Sat 08:30–17:30. Closed Sun. 6SBW THE GRIND COFFEE COMPANY Visit upmarket Melrose Arch for the most Instagram-worthy coffees in the city, found at this small coffee bar that is part of a cycle shop. Try the signature Coffee in a Cone, a macchiato served in a chocolate-lined ice-cream cone or, for a cold refreshment, the nitro-cold brew ‘Draught Coffee’ (from a beer tap).QWhitely Rd, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 72 754 8705.

Open 06:30–18:00, Sat 07:30–16:00, Sun 08:00–16:00.

USBLW STARBUCKS NEW This is the first Starbucks to open in South Africa and the excitement and novelty has yet to wear off among local devotees. Busy at all hours, there’s a phenomenal choice of coffees on offer including specially brewed varieties from the Starbucks Reserve Bar and those unusual seasonal specials, plus some pricey but attractive Joburg-branded merchandise to take home.QCnr Tyrwhitt Ave and Cradock Ave, Rosebank, www.starbucks.co.za. Open 06:30–22:00.

EBLW

CAFÉS Joburg has a vibrant café society, and you’ll know the most popular spots by the presence of the laptop brigade who use cafés as their offices. Good coffee is standard.

CROFT & COFFEE Good service, fresh bottled juices delivered daily, strong coffee and possibly the best creamy scrambled eggs in town, have made this spot the early-morning hangout for Joburg’s intellectual set, media types and wannabes, replaced by a later shift of lycra-clad ladies with Louis Vuitton handbags. It’s also an all-round tasty lunch choice with a simple menu of salads, toasties and prego rolls.Q66 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 3634, www.croftandco. co.za. Open 06:30–17:00, Thu 06:30–20:00, Fri 06:30– 21:00, Sat 07:00–13:00, Sun 07:00–12:00. LBW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat ESPRESSO CAFÉ A Parkhurst landmark, this lively café spreads across the sidewalk, making it a favourite for people-watching on sunny weekend days, and there’s usually someone in a high performance sports car pulling up outside. The menu is wide and varied, service is polished, portions are generous and the food is consistently of a high standard.Q23A 4th Ave, Parkhurst, tel +27 11 447 8700. Open 09:00–22:00, Sun 09:00–20:00. Closed Mon. RR. NB THE FAT ZEBRA Quirky neighbourhood café offering a superb range of breakfasts including Kev’s Tiger Oats – creamy oats, drizzled with honey, fruit and toasted almonds, and the Babalaas Breakfast, which comes with a shot glass of cream soda designed to cure even the weirdest of hangovers. For lunch there’s salads, burgers, wood-fired pizzas and the like plus a decent drinks selection make this an evening stopover too.

Q71 7th St (cnr 3rd Ave), Linden, tel. +27 82 469 5757.

Open Tue, Wed 07:00–17:00, Thu, Fri 07:00–22:00, Sat 08:00–22:00, Sun 09:00–13:00. Closed Mon. B MILK BAR At this chic contemporary Africa-themed café in downtown Joburg you’ll find a basic café menu of tasty local fare that includes bunny chow and prego rolls, plus excellent coffee sourced from Rwanda, Ethiopia and Tanzania, and African beers. Named after Abu’s Milk Bar in Addis Ababa, the Milk Bar has a lounge area and cool courtyard out back complete with wooden giraffes and metal hadedas. Also in Rosebank and Kramerville.QE-4, Shop 2, Schreiner Chambers, 94 Pritchard St (opposite the High Court), City Centre, tel. +27 11 333 1630. Open 06:30–18:00, Sat 08:00–12:00. Closed Sun. UBSW PABLO EGGS GO BAR NEW This art deco-inspired restaurant is a shrine to the freerange egg, just about any way you like it. Eggs are the main dish – poached, boiled, scrambled or prepared as a green or red shakshuka (Middle Eastern-style and novelly placed atop a Yemeni flatbread). There’s a lively bar (a liquor licence is pending), and the Bloody Mary is a breakfast menu staple.Q2, 7th Street, Melville, tel. +27 63 335 9348, Pablo Eggs-Go-Bar. Open daily from 6:30. Mon until 12:00, Tue–Sat until 16:00, Sun until 15:00. R-RR.

HIGH TEA

54 On Bath, Rosebank

From the lightest and fluffiest buttery scones with clotted cream and preserves to tea served with an incomparable vista of one of the most forested cities in the world, Joburgers love to take time out for afternoon tea.

For the most traditional experience book high tea at the Victorian house museum Lindfield House (see Sightseeing). For a contemporary afternoon tea with a jawdropping view of Joburg’s jacarandas make a booking for afternoon tea at the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff (see Where to Stay), and for an elegant and excellent value-for-money high tea there’s the opulent Palazzo Hotel at Montecasino (see Where to Stay), where you can enjoy an afternoon on the terrace overlooking a glamorous pool that would make any Hollywood starlet feel at home. Bookings essential.

54 ON BATH NEW Located in Rosebank’s shopping and entertainment hub (with a direct link to Rosebank Mall), this elegant hotel is a lovely place to polish off an afternoon on the pretty garden terrace. An irresistibly beautiful cake stand comes stocked with a generous selection of savoury treats and a range of delicate pastries, cakes and fluffy scones, and service is warm, welcoming and efficient.Q54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8500, www.54onbath.com. Royal afternoon tea, with a glass of Kir Royale R275; traditional afternoon tea R225. Bookings must be made in advance or before 10am on the appointed day.

info@urbanocean.co.za

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September 2016 – January 2017 33

Nightlife: Live music

The Good Luck Bar Justin Lee Jazz, soul, funk, hip hop, house, indie and rock – Joburg’s live-music scene has something for everyone and a night out at a local gig can be one of the most memorable experiences you have in this city. Venues vary from fully fledged clubs with a stage and top-of-the-range sound systems to small, underground bars and neighbourhood cafés. You’ll find plenty of African flavour, with leading bands like Urban Village, The Brother Moves On, Mafikizolo, BCUC and The Soil mixing modern beats with traditional instruments and African spiritual rhythms. Performers Simphiwe Dana, Lira, Thandiswa Mazwai, Zonke and rapper and poet Tumi Molekane are names to look out for.

LIVE-MUSIC CLUBS THE BASSLINE A legendary inner-city venue that has seen virtually every South African legend of the past two decades grace its stage. The statue in front of the club is of one of the country's biggest stars, the late Brenda Fassie, and is testament to the importance of this venue in South African music history. The large club still prides itself on being a champion of local talent, and is a particularly good venue for jazz, funk, soul, Afro-pop, rap, and bands from the wider African continent.Q10 Henry Nxumalo St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 838 9142, www.bassline.co.za. Usually open for gigs Fri, Sat and for ragga nights on Thursdays.

THE GOOD LUCK BAR Behind a pair of hulking triple-volume doors bearing decades-old warnings against the dangers of dynamite awaits this spacious club that was an explosives warehouse back in the gold rush years. Hosting regular gigs, festivals, club nights and vinyl fairs promoting everything from Afrobeat to heavy metal, the clientele varies accordingly.Q1 Fox Precinct, 14 Alexander St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 84 683 4413, www.goodluckbar.co.za. Open for gigs Wed, Thu from 17:00, Fri, Sat from 15:00 and Sun from 12:00.

36 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

THE ORBIT All the biggest names in South African jazz can be found, both on stage and in the audience, at this highly respected jazz club dedicated to promoting the best in jazz, funk, blues and other genres. An inviting café-restaurant greets you downstairs, while upstairs the atmospheric bar and a stage surrounded by tables await – reservations for these are advised.Q81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645, www.theorbit.co.za. Open 11:30–02:00.

Closed Mon. Admission prices vary.

THE RADIUM BEERHALL Although the surrounding neighbourhoods have seen better days, this historic pub still brims with warmth and character. Every Friday and Saturday there are energetic live jazz and blues gigs, and the eclectic decor and motley crew of regulars propping up the bar only add to its unique charm.

Q282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, www.theradium.co.za. Admission R50–R80 on some performance nights.

ALTERNATIVE MUSIC BARS AFRIKAN FREEDOM STATION Intimate and grungy, this down-at-heel little jazz café is high in atmosphere and local colour. Specialising in African jazz and poetry, it’s the kind of bohemian hangout made for meaningful conversations enjoyed over cheap beers with local intellectuals, artists and musicians.Q41 5th Ave, Westdene, tel. +27 73 852 5149, www.afrikanfreedomstation.co.za. Live music Fri, Sat, Sun from 20:00.

AMUSE CAFÉ A small, quirky and queer-friendly bar plastered with random pieces of nostalgia, like old Prince and Wham! posters. On stage it’s a pot-luck selection of everything from nu-soul to alt-rock performed by local amateur bands, plus occasional burlesque shows and film screenings.Q34 5th St, Linden, tel. +27 84 555 5252. Open 15:00–24:00. Closed Sun. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife: Live music THE BANNISTER HOTEL BAR Always a great place to start an evening with some cocktails or craft beers, this stylish and easy-going bar also hosts regular live music and DJ events with well-known house and rap DJs and local alternative bands (Wed–Sun).QC-3, The Bannister Hotel, 9 De Beer St, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.bannisterhotel.co.za. Open Wed, Thu 18:00–00:00, Fri 16:00–03:30, Sat 14:00–03:30, Sun 12:00–00.00.

Kitchen closes 22:00. Bar snacks served until late.

REGULAR EVENTS You won’t only find great live music at the city’s bars and clubs – also look out for regular events at other venues like theatres, museums and even malls. Some of our favourites include SundaesOnJunction, a free Sunday afternoon jazz gig on the piazza at the Newtown Junction mall (every Sun at 13:30, see Shopping for address details); the monthly Sophiatown Jazz Encounters, an intimate jazz concert at The Mix, a community centre and museum in Joburg’s historic home of jazz, Sophiatown (advance booking required, bring your own booze, see Sightseeing for venue details); and Park Acoustics, an all-day music festival featuring major South African bands and comedians held at the Voortrekker Monument park overlooking Pretoria (last Sun of every month, www.parkacoustics.co.za.

Tickets R120–R150). Another fine spot for hanging out during the day is Stanley Beer Yard, which hosts live music every Saturday from 12:00–16:00 (44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791, www.44stanley.co.za).

1F X

HOUSE MUSIC & CLUBBING Joburg has a reputation as one of the world’s leading electronic dance music cities. From taxis and township shebeens to cocktail bars and clubs, the sounds of African house reverberate around the city. On Friday or Saturday nights get glammed up and head to upscale clubs like Harem or Taboo, and for the biggest trance, techno or electro club nights check the line-up at the gritty and alternative club Carfax, where the adjoining cobbled streets are closed off to form an indoor-outdoor space with many stages. At the end of the month look out for big house music club nights like TOY TOY ( welovetoytoy), the AM Factory ( theAMFactory), Hot on Top ( Hotontop) or Deep in the Sky ( sundayskylinesession).

CARFAXQB-4, 39 Gwigwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 834 9187, carfax.co.za. The adjoining dance club & Club is open Thu–Sat 21:00–04:00, www.andclub.co.za.

HAREMQ160 Jan Smuts Ave, Rosebank, harem.rosebank. Open Fri, Sat 22:00–04:00. No under 23s.

TABOOQ24 Central, cnr Fredman Dr and Gwen Ln, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 783 2200, www.taboo.co.za. Open Fri, Sat 22:00–04:00.

For the latest updates follow us on JohannesburgInYourPocket and JohannesburgIYP, sign up for our weekly events newsletter and check out our events calendar online at johannesburg.inyourpocket.com.

URBAN INDUSTRIAL ENTERTAINMENT VENUE

14 Alexander Street, Ferreirasdorp, Johannesburg www.1fox.co.za | www.facebook.com/1FoxPrecinct Arts, music and great food. Ample safe parking available.

1F X MARKET

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2016/08/02 11:55:09 AM September 2016 – January 2017 37

Nightlife A PINOT PARTY INVITE Carrie Adams joined Norman Goodfellows, one of Joburg’s most prominent stores, in 1997. She fell in love with wine while in London in the 1980s, and since then has expanded her interest to the study and marketing of all things found behind a bar counter.

Norman Goodfellows is starting to celebrate its 40th birthday year and so a lot of what I am tasting and writing about has to do with longevity, reliability, pedigree and integrity. These are all the good things that go into launching, growing and sustaining a ‘brand of note’, which is what we believe Norman Goodfellows to be. I will reserve the fun and fascinating history of our 40 years in business for the next edition of Johannesburg in Your Pocket, which will be out in time for the real celebrations. For now, I am going to fill you in on the reason why I think you should be drinking Pinot Noir through spring and summer.

Pinot Noir is the red-grape variety whose historical home is Burgundy in France, but plantings have grown worldwide and it is now found in, among other places, Oregon and the Russian River regions of America, the island state of Tasmania, Marlborough in New Zealand, and Walker Bay in South Africa. It is a difficult little grape with a thin skin and a propensity to throw tantrums in both the vineyard and the cellar. Pinot Noir can be moody, mean, nasty and stinky, but when you hit the sweet spot with this tenacious little grape from soil to cellar... Boy, oh boy, it’s easy to fall head over heels for it. Once the Pinot bug bites, it can also be the most expensive love affair you’ll ever have because its alluring perfume, tinkling texture and gorgeous flavour profile ensure that you cannot leave a wine outlet without purchasing ‘just one more bottle of Pinot’.

In the past 10 years South Africa has seen a blossoming of Pinot Noir vineyards from regions other than the traditionally earmarked Walker Bay and Hemel en Aarde producers of this grape variety, notably Elgin, famous for its apple crops. Here they are producing more affordable Pinot Noir, and, more particularly, the Mr P from trained engineer Andrew Gunn, who made himself famous with his Iona brand (renamed after the island off the west coast of Scotland, where his ancestors hail from). Gunn left Joburg with his wine-making dreams for an apple farm atop a mountain overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, seduced by the view from the dilapidated Herbert Baker homestead he found on the property. Mr P is fun, lighthearted and, at under R100 a bottle, a dead cert for heralding the changing of the seasons and the start of Norman Goodfellows’s birthday celebrations.

QNorman Goodfellows, 192 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 4814, www.ngf.co.za.

38 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

AGOG, home of The Nine Barrels, Maboneng

WINE BARS ACE + PEARL Don’t mind the nondescript location overlooking busy Jan Smuts Avenue, this chic little wine bar has a superb selection of boutique wines. Labels change every few weeks and there are regular meet-the-maker events. Order a bottle (one glass is never enough) and enjoy it with French nibbles from the classy menu of appetisers.QAlbans Sq, 357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 781 0455, www.acepearl. com. Open 17:00–22:00, Fri 15:00–23:00, Sat 14:00–22:00.

Closed Sun, Mon. B ARQUE CHAMPAGNE CRESCENT Sandton City’s super luxurious designer shopping arcade Diamond Walk is where you will find this high-end champagne bar. Choose from exclusive French labels like PerrierJouët Belle Epoque or more wallet-friendly South African sparkling wines.QSandton City Diamond Walk, cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 326 8163, arque-africa.com. Open 09:00–22:00.

THE NINE BARRELS NEW Wine, champagne, jazz, art and tapas – this brand-new inner-city wine bar (opens September 2016) has it all, including photogenic rooftop views of the city’s skyline from the Q Club whisky bar. The bar shares space with the contemporary art gallery AGOG, and the decor details show off handcrafted modern beauty. The urban-chic chandeliers made from recycled bottles are in themselves works of art. Look out for regular events such as jazz nights, wine tastings and tango classes.QG-4, 12 Lower Ross St, Maboneng, City Centre, theninebarrels.com, tel. +27 79 458 5350. See website for open times. EB THE TERRACE CIGAR AND WINE BAR From the Hyatt Regency’s courtyard oasis you’d never know you are just metres away from the hustle and bustle of central Rosebank. Enjoy drinks and cigars here, with the noise of the city completely muffled and, instead, replaced with birds tweeting overhead and water trickling into infinity pools nestled under romantically lit palm trees.QHyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Open 15:00–22:00. BL johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife ROOFTOP BARS For a sundowner with a superb view, visit Flames terrace at the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff (see Where to Stay), the bar at David Higgs’s much anticipated new venture, Marble, in Rosebank (see Where to Eat), or the slick wine and cocktail bar at the EB Social Kitchen & Bar in Hyde Park (see Where to Eat). For undoubtedly the best sky-high views of Joburg’s downtown skyline, look out for events at Randlords, a rooftop venue in Braamfontein that often hosts club nights and concerts (see randlords for what’s on). Here’s our round-up of some other fabulous rooftops.

THE BEACH A small, artificial ‘beach’ on an inner-city rooftop. Sticking with the beach theme, cocktails are de rigueur: the Moscow Mule is the house specialty here. The Beach opens at lunchtime every Saturday for post-Neighbourgoods Market lounging (see Shopping). The cover charge is pricey and DJs loud, but where else in the city can you sink your feet into pure white sand?Q68 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel +27 11 492 1440. Open Sat, Sun from October. Call for details.

ELEVATE Towering 16 floors above the heart of the City Centre, the sunsets viewed from here are always memorable.

The bar is often used for private functions so call ahead to check that it is open.QD-5, 16th floor Reef Hotel, 58 Anderson Street (cnr Harrison St), City Centre, tel. +27 11 689 1000, www.elevatevenue.co.za. Open 15:0022:00. Closed Sun. B LIVING ROOM This rooftop garden has been constructed with an ecofriendly ethos and there’s plenty of vegan and vegetarian food on the menu. More a café-bar than a late-night venue, it is most happening during the famous Sundays in the Living Room house party when the rooftop hosts a crowd for sundowners against a spectacular urban backdrop (Sunday cover charge R30–R50).QG-4, 20 Kruger St (the Main Change building, 5th floor), Maboneng, tel. +27 61 402 2843, livingroomjozi.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat 11:00–21:00, Sun 11:00–19:00. B SIR JAMES VAN DER MERWE A gorgeous warehouse space stuffed to the rafters with the owner’s quirky collection of antiques and exotic curiosities from around the world. From the balcony you have a great view of the Sandton skyline and downstairs there’s the African retro-chic Milk Bar courtyard café (open 06:00–20:00, Wed 06:00–23:00, Sat 06:00–17:00, Sun 07:00–15:00). The party music and craft beers will easily help you forget it’s only Wednesday.Q6 Desmond St, Kramerville, tel +27 72 607 4235, Open Wed 14:00– 02:00. B 40 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Randlords, Braamfontein

BARS & PUBS THE BANNISTER HOTEL BAR Maybe it’s the abundant palms or the whir of the ceiling fans and the huge windows opening right onto the city’s coolest downtown street, but there’s something almost tropical about this lively spot. Great for early-evening drinks with a mature crowd while watching the colourfully dressed trendsetters of Braamfontein stroll by. The bar also often hosts live music and DJ events (see p. 37).QC-3, The Bannister Hotel, 9 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.bannisterhotel.co.za. Open 11:00– 24:00. Fri, Sat 11:00–04:00. Closed Sun, Mon.EBW CHURCHILLS Moody lighting, jazzy house music, a library-style cigar room, expert cocktails and a luxurious take on contemporary British decor (think chesterfields with plush Union Jack cushions) can make for an atmosphere that is more pub than club, especially late on weekends when the velvet rope is strung outside.Q2nd Floor, Melrose Piazza, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 684 1040, www.churchillsbar.co.za. Open 14:30 until late. Closed Mon. LW THE GENERATOR A small and friendly industrial-themed bar with a good craft beer selection, just five minutes’ drive from Sandton Central.

The taps, lights, door frames and tables are all fashioned from brass piping, and there’s usually a DJ-barman spinning alternative indie and house tunes at a volume conducive to conversation.Q130 11th Street, Parkmore, tel. +27 11 326 7902, Open Mon, Tue 09:00–22:00, Wed, Thu 09:00–23:00, Fri 09:00–late, Sat 11:00–late. BW THE GRIFFIN Inspired by the British fashion for ‘gastropubs’, The Griffin deals in craft beers and posh pub food set against fancylooking wallpaper. The friendly staff have a good sense of humour and will always remember you next time, while the punters are largely local young-professional types. The menu boasts an interesting selection of local craft beers and ciders.

The music can get a bit loud later on Fridays and Saturdays.

QIllovo Junction, cnr Corlett Dr and Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 9842, www.thegriffin.co.za. Open 12:00–late, Sun 12:00–16:30, Mon, Tue 16:30–23:00. BW johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

THE HANDLE BAR Don’t be alarmed by the adjoining restaurant’s name, Rim & Rubber Assembly. This isn’t some kind of kinky S&M club but a bar, restaurant and motorbike showroom. The only fetishists you’ll meet here are those who enjoy good whiskies and high-speed motorbikes. Behind the restaurant you’ll find The Handle Bar, with big TV screens set up for watching motorsports.Q26 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside, tel. +27 10 900 4949. Open 10:00–22:00, Sun 10:00– 16:00 (bar closes 17:00). Closed Mon. U KITCHENER’S CARVERY AND BAR Joburg’s cool kids and creative types hang out here having the time of their lives in what used to be a grand colonial hotel. Fortunately even the most serious hipsters can’t turn this welcoming party atmosphere into something pretentious. Cosmopolitan, cool and casual, Kitchener’s is a very special kind of place. The atmosphere flows over to the Great Dane next door.QCnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0166, www.kitcheners. co.za. Open 10:00–04:00, Sun–Tue 10:00–02:00. Cover charge after 21:00 Fri and Sat. EB LENIN’S VODKA BAR A mural of old Vlad looks out over a moodily lit bar stacked high with vodka bottles from around the world. Start your night with a frozen shot from the bartenders’ weekly selection before making your way through the cocktail list. The owners also have a wine bar two doors down at SoMa art gallery.QG-4, 300 Commissioner St (Maverick Corner), Maboneng, tel. +27 82 851 2863, lenins.co.za. Open Wed– Sat 16:00–late, Sun 12:00–late. Closed Mon, Tue. B MAD GIANT NEW This impressive bar, brewery and bottle shop, also housing Urbanologi, an Asian-inspired tapas restaurant (see p. 22), attracts a lively and diverse crowd for lunch, dinner and any time in between. Part of 1 Fox Precinct, there is plenty of indoor and outdoor seating and spaces to enjoy by day or night. The unique tastes of Mad Giant craft beers and an innovative and delicious selection of snacks and main courses make this a must-visit destination (see our cover story on p. 44).QB-5, 1 Fox Precinct, 1 Fox St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, www.madgiant.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–18:00. UEBL facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

SHAKERS COCKTAIL BAR NEW A sunny open-air cocktail bar in quirky Maverick Corner, which is home to a collection of small pop-up shops and casual cafés. Cocktails include summer classics like pina coladas and mojitos, and signature jam jars packed with fruity flavours. Precious few tables, but when the salsa dancing starts most people seem not to mind.QG-4, Maverick Corner, 300 Commissioner St, Maboneng, tel. +27 83 351 3524. Open 12:00–01:00. Closed Mon–Wed. B SIX COCKTAIL BAR The student’s cocktail bar of choice but not the place to knock back dubious shooters until the staff have to scrape you off the floor – instead, you’ll generally find a smartly dressed crowd sipping cocktails and bobbing their shoulders to old-school hip hop and R & B. Daily two-for-one happy hour on all cocktails from 12:00–19:00.QCnr 7th St and 3rd Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 8306. Open 12:00–02:00. B STANLEY BEER YARD The converted 1930s industrial complex 44 Stanley with its pretty interlinked courtyards is a chilled place to spend a warm summer evening. Settle in at one of the long tables under the trees in the beer garden and quench your thirst with a choice of South African craft beers.Q44 Stanley, cnr Owl St and Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791.

Open Tue–Thu 15:00–23:00, Fri 12:00–23:00, Sat 11:30– 23:00, Sun 11:30–17:00. Closed Mon. EB THE TROYEVILLE HOTEL The bar at this historic hotel in the edgy neighbourhood of Troyeville first opened its doors in 1939. Beloved by rugby fans because of its close proximity to the Ellis Park Stadium (recently renamed Emirates Airline Park), on match days the place is packed out with fans in their team colours. It is also known for its cultural events such as the The Troyeville Book Club, which attracts the city’s political activists, artists and journalist crowd. A menu of tasty Portuguese food is complemented by a range of beers from Mozambique.

QH-3, 1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd (cnr Wilhelmina St), Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 7709, www.troyevillehotel.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00 (or later). Guarded parking at the rear entrance. UEB September 2016 – January 2017 41

Purple Spring

Jacarandas in bloom, Saxonwold Mark Straw Each spring, usually from early October to early November, a sea of purple petals from thousands of jacaranda trees blooms above suburban streets. The jacaranda is not a native African tree (it originated in South America) and is believed to have first arrived in Gauteng in 1888 (during the gold rush), quickly becoming so popular that the trees were planted along almost every new street built in the rapidly growing cities of Johannesburg and Pretoria. Jacarandas are now officially recognised in South Africa as an alien species, so to see the spectacular spring blossoms you need to head to Joburg’s older suburbs, mostly north of the city centre. The blooming jacarandas have found their way into the city’s mythology. Students joke that if you haven’t started revising for the end-of-year university exams before the jacarandas start to bloom, then you’ve probably left it too late. If you are in Joburg at this time, here’s our guide to some of the best places to view the lilac splendour. All you need to take with you is your camera.

BEST JACARANDA STREETS ROSEBANK Take a stroll along Tyrwhitt Avenue in Rosebank on either side of Oxford Road in the shade of the blooming jacarandas.

PARKWOOD In the suburbs of Parkwood and neighbouring Saxonwold, take a drive (or a walk) along Bath Avenue and make a left (or a right) on any of these gorgeous purple canopied streets: Bristol, Wantage, Griswold or Rutland Roads.

SAXONWOLD Follow Riviera Road up from the M1 past Killarney towards the Ditsong Museum of Military History for a magical jacaranda-fringed view of the War Memorial.

42 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

MELVILLE The pretty suburb of Melville is full of jacarandas, many of them contrasting spectacularly with bright pink bougainvillea. Jacaranda hotspots include 4th Avenue.

GREENSIDE When driving through Greenside, take a detour down quiet Clovelly Road (parallel to Barry Herzog Avenue bordering the suburb of Emmarentia).

WESTCLIFF This grand suburb set atop the Westcliff ridge is where many of Joburg’s mining magnates, the so-called Randlords, built their mansions at the turn of the century. The Westcliff steps (210 in total), dubbed the ‘stairway to heaven’ can be accessed via Crescent Drive or the intersection of Wicklow Avenue and Westcliff Drive (pedestrian entrance). At the top, you’ll be rewarded with a view of the urban forest.

HOUGHTON Munro Drive, which winds its way across the Observatory ridge in Houghton, is a scenic, historic street lined with mature jacaranda trees and epic views over the northern suburbs.

LINKSFIELD Follow the main thoroughfare Club Street through the suburb of Linksfield and take a right on Bedford Street, which becomes Linksfield Drive. The views get steadily more impressive as the road winds its way up the steep Linksfield ridge.

KENSINGTON Drive through a spectacular purple tunnel along Highland Road in this historic suburb. Nearby Juno Street also has a remarkable display. This is one of the most famous jacaranda areas in the province of Gauteng. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Purple Spring VIEWPOINTS To view the jacaranda show from on high, these are some of our favourite spots.

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL THE WESTCLIFF For drinks, lunch or afternoon tea with a panoramic jacaranda-filled view you can’t beat the terrace at this luxury hotel (see Where to Eat for details).

EB SOCIAL KITCHEN The Exclusive Books store in Hyde Park Corner has to be one of our favourite bookshops with excellent coffee and a great book selection. The pièce de résistance is the outstanding view from the casual and contemporary EB Social Kitchen & Bar (see Where to Eat for details).

L. RON HUBBARD HOUSE To see the jacarandas from a different angle, the view from the house museum of L. Ron Hubbard (the founder of Scientology) in Observatory is extraordinary.Q40 Hannaben St, Cyrildene, tel. +27 11 054 0540, www.lrhhouse.org. Open 10:00-21:00, visits by appointment only. Admission free.

MARBLE Located on the rooftop of a new development along Rosebank’s Art Gallery Row, much-awarded chef David Higgs’ sizzling, live-fire grill house and bar has spectacular views across Joburg towards the Magaliesburg mountains (see Where to Eat for details).

MELVILLE KOPPIES Hike the Melville koppies for views of purple jacarandas against the backdrop of Joburg’s distinctive downtown skyscrapers. The best way to explore the koppies is on one of the weekend guided walks.QCnr Judith and Orange Rds, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 4797, www.mk.org.za. Hike costs R50, R20 for kids.

PARKS Joburg’s many parks offer a variety of flora, not just the famous jacarandas. Head to these green spaces to enjoy the sunshine and people-watching on weekends.

EMMARENTIA DAM AND JOHANNESBURG BOTANICAL GARDENS This sprawling green oasis, which incorporates the popular Emmarentia Dam, has extensive parkland for enjoying long walks with views of the distant ridges and wide lawns that slope towards the water. The spectacular terraced rose garden with its fountains is a popular spot for weekend weddings.QOlifants Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 782 7064.

MUSHROOM FARM PARK This small park with its playground, hilly landscaped lawns and an outdoor gym is one of precious few green spaces to be found within central Sandton’s concrete sprawl. There is also a giant tethered hot-air balloon which you can ride up to enjoy impressive views of Sandton (weather permitting).QDaisy St, off Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 11 784 6881. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

PRETORIA Nicknamed the Jacaranda City, P r e t o r i a’s suburban streets are lined with purple trees almost everywhere you look. For unparalleled views of the jacaranda city visit the majestic Union Buildings (seat of the South African government) and take a walk through its lovely terraced gardens. In the same area the quiet Eastwood Street and the main thoroughfare Soutpansberg Road have a dense collection of jacarandas. The suburbs of Sunnyside and Muckleneuk are also good places to see the spring blossoms. Some of the most beautiful streets include Johnston, Reitz, Bourke and Loveday Streets. Note that Pretoria is approximately 3 degrees warmer than Joburg and the jacarandas often bloom slightly earlier than in Joburg. If not driving, take the Gautrain to Pretoria (around 30 minutes). For the Union Buildings, get off at Hatfield and take the H3 Arcadia Gautrain bus (weekdays only). Photo by Mark Straw.

WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL GARDENS One of Gauteng’s most beautiful parks, head here for stunning flora and fauna, excellent birdwatching (look out for the black Verreaux’s eagles that nest here), waterfalls, manicured lawns, short hiking routes and other outdoor delights. Approximately 30 minutes’ drive from Sandton.QMalcolm Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, www.sanbi.org/gardens/walter-sisulu. Entrance R35, students and pensioners R25, scholars R12. Free for kids under 6.

WATERFALL PARK NEW Located in Waterfall City, adjacent to the newly built Mall of Africa, Waterfall Park is modelled on New York’s Bryant Park and is set to become a popular outdoor venue. With three amphitheatres and an exhibition and market space, the park has been designed to delight visitors of all ages, with a wi-fi interactive choreographed musical fountain and eight interactive sculptures.QLone Creek and Magwa Crescs., Waterfall City, www.theparkwaterfall.co.za.

ZOO LAKE A premier green space where you can picnic, feed the ducks and hire a rowboat. There are also basketball courts, a walking track, a children’s play area with lots of climbing equipment, as well as Moyo’s restaurant and gift shop. Popular with walkers and runners and just about everyone else, this park gets very busy and rather messy at weekends, with families and big groups gathered around barbecues and picnic tables intent on a good time.

QPrince of Wales Dr, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 1131.

September 2016 – January 2017 43

Main Street’s gold rush

Mad Giant, 1 Fox Precinct

MAIN ST MINING WALK Downtown Main Street has been home to the city’s mining headquarters ever since Johannesburg was founded 130 years ago. Back then Joburg was little more than a dusty mining camp filled with fortune hunters and prospectors, but in the space of just three years it became the biggest settlement in South Africa.

Through the 1890s and early 1900s, the low-rise buildings that dotted the landscape were steadily replaced with taller, grander edifices that reflected the metropolitan’s sudden enormous wealth. You can explore the city’s early mining history along seven blocks of this pedestrianised main street, starting from Gandhi Square and ending at Ntemi Piliso Street. Old relics of the gold rush such as mining headgear, stamp presses and carts line the way, complemented by information boards detailing mining history. Underneath the massive Standard Bank headquarters two blocks over (cnr Simmonds and Frederick Sts), visit an 1886 minetunnel entrance, now a museum (open Mon–Fri during banking hours). One of the most noteworthy buildings along this strip is the headquarters of Anglo-American mining company (cnr Ntemi Piliso St), with its bronze sculpture of a herd of leaping impalas on the public walkway. At the western end of the strip you’ll find the Magistrate’s Court, which faces Chancellor House (cnr Fox and Gerard Sekoto Sts), once the offices of the first black law firm in the city, Mandela and Tambo Attorneys. There is a smart open-air museum with window displays focusing on the life of Nelson Mandela, and our favourite Mandela statue, of him shadowboxing, by sculptor Marco Cianfanelli. Keep walking along Fox Street to 1 Fox Precinct, a two-minute walk from here.

MAP: C/D-5 GETTING THERE: From the Gautrain station take the CBD J2 Gautrain bus and get off at Main Street. The open-top City Sightseeing bus also stops at Main Street.

For all map references listed here, see City Centre map on pp. 64–65.

44 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Urban Collective, Cornerhouse

Shiny discoveries in Main Street in the city centre runs from east to west and remains a symbol of the mining wealth that transformed a tented camp into an African metropolis. This artery between the city districts of Ferreirasdorp and Newtown (two of the original neighbourhoods) on the western side of the city and Maboneng (the newest lifestyle playground) in the east makes it easy to navigate your way to the many new developments that dot the city map. Main Street still houses the headquarters of mining giants (see Main St Mining Walk opposite) but new seams of gold have reinvigorated this historic strip, giving visitors and locals plenty of reasons to explore the city centre.

FIVE CITY HOTSPOTS  1 FOX PRECINCT

Starting on the city’s west side, 1 Fox Precinct is a collection of restored warehouses in the Ferreirasdorp district, named for Ignatius Phillip Ferreira, one of the first mining prospectors to join the gold rush in 1886. The newly named 1 Fox Precinct’s warehouses are thought to have been constructed in the early 1890s, when they were used for manufacturing mining equipment for the nearby gold reef, which then stretched along the southern edge of the city centre.

You can still glimpse this industrial heritage in fading signs, wonderfully old-fashioned copper-coloured lamps, immense timber frames and corrugated-iron cladding.

Undoubtedly the most striking space is the ‘shed’ that houses Mad Giant craft brewery (see column opposite) and Urbanologi restaurant. Top designer Haldane Martin used a clever mix of materials to meld a sense of industrial history with colourful playfulness. The light fittings and tables in the beer garden outside resemble oversized Meccano sets, while, at the centre of the brewery, is a sculpted concrete bar resembling a bottletop. Behind it an immense metal cutout of a yeti-like Mad Giant lopes in front of the shiny metal tanks where the craft beer is brewed. It’s a fun design statement, but one that also speaks to the city of gold’s enduring power to make its arrivants dream big. The menu at chef Angelo Scirocco ‘s Urbanologi restaurant (see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Main Street’s gold rush MAD GIANT CRAFT BREWERY Mad Giant brings together science and an immense love of beer – the brand’s co-founder, Eben Uys, is a thirtysomething chemical engineer whose thorough understanding of froth has made its way into scientific journals.

Beer is at the heart of this high-concept yet unpretentious space, and you’ll be surrounded by a mixed crowd attracted to Mad Giant by the opportunity to socialise in the city, with great-tasting beers and an exciting food menu.

The Apprentice apartment, Cornerhouse

downtown Joburg Where to Eat) focuses on small plates, rich in flavour and ideal for sharing, fusing Asian-inspired ingredients and Japanese street-food styles. On sunny days (pretty much any day) soak up the atmosphere in the beer garden out front.

Next door you’ll find 1 Fox Market Shed (open Fri– Sun, www.1fox.co.za, see Shopping), a street food-style market with vendors serving wood-fired pizzas, Greek seafood, decadent cakes and plenty more besides. Enjoy coffee at Copper Café beside a feature wall plastered in 10 cent coins, and, further along, shop for local arts, fashion and jewellery. In the neighbouring courtyard is The Good Luck Bar, a fun live music venue (see Nightlife), and Fox Junction, a venue for hire. Looking onto Marshall Street is the entrance to Assemblage artists’ studios (visits by appointment, www.assemblage.co.za).

MAP: B-5 GETTING THERE: Entrances at 1 Fox St and 1 Main St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre. There is a car park opposite the entrance on Alexander St. The Main Street Mining District is a five-minute walk away via Fox St, a route which takes you past the Chancellor House open-air museum and Mandela statue (see Main St Mining Walk opposite).

 COMMISSIONER STREET

Easily one of the grandest buildings on Commissioner Street is Cornerhouse (cnr Simmonds St). Built in 1903 for the Anglo mining company (headed by Ernest Oppenheimer, one of the most significant mining figures of the 20th century), when it was completed it was the tallest commercial building in South Africa. The lovingly preserved interiors are splendid with a wrought-iron staircase lined by majolica tiles and a stained-glass cupola. The building, owned by Urban Ocean, which also owns the neighbouring buildings along Commissioner Street, is now home to a mix of start-ups and a coding school, and has a sexy coffee shop, Capital Café, and co-working and hot-desking space, Urban Collective, perfect for local and visiting entrepreneurs (entrance at 34 Simmonds St, tel. +27 11 838 9879, www.urbanocean.co.za.

Open Mon–Fri 08:00–17:00, Sat by appointment only. R180 per day, monthly packages available). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

BEER TASTING The beer-tasting experience focuses on helping you identify different beer styles and flavour profiles. It’s a fun way to spend time, and you’ll learn plenty about craft beers. We tasted four beers available to try on tap: a pilsner, a pale ale, an amber ale and a weiss beer.

The Mad Giant team also like to experiment with new seasonal and limited-edition beers, and we have it on good authority that the one to look out for in the near future is a new Porter-style ale (similar to Guinness), aged in old whisky barrels.

SUMMER BEERS All Mad Giant beers are dry-hopped. It’s a time-consuming brewing technique but you end up with a quality beer packed with a memorable aroma and flavour. To get that summer feeling, try the weiss beer Electric Light (tropical fruit notes of passionfruit and banana) or The Guzzler, a crisp, hoppy pilsner. The experts say it is notoriously difficult to produce but we found it an easy beer to drink. After the tasting, retreat to the beer garden outside with a pint (or three) of your favourite beer.

THE MAD GIANT BOTTLE STORE Buy Mad Giant beers to take home as well as fun T-shirts, caps and a range of super custom-made glassware that makes for great souvenirs.QB-5, 1 Fox Precinct, 1 Fox St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 11 492 0901, www.madgiant.co.za. Brewery and bar open Mon–Sat 12:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–18:00. Bottle store open Wed, Thu 10:00–17:00, Fri, Sat 10:00– 20:00, Sun 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Justin Lee

September 2016 – January 2017 45

Main Street’s gold rush MAP: D-4/5 GETTING THERE: From the Gautrain station take the CBD J2 Gautrain bus and get off at FNB Bank City or Library Square. Alternatively you can use the Rea Vaya circular C-3 route and get off at Library Square. The Main Street Mining District stop of the City Sightseeing bus is five minutes’ walk away.

 NEWTOWN PRECINCT

Gentlemen’s Arthouse, Newtown

Two doors down at 85 Commissioner Street is City Central, formerly the headquarters of Barclays Bank in South Africa. Built in the early 1940s by leading architect Gordon Leith, it is an example of the early-modernist style in Joburg mixing an understated neoclassical facade with a towering triple-volume marble banking hall, above which hangs a giant brass-and-glass chandelier. Inside you’ll find the recently launched food hall offering freshly baked croissants, doughnuts and cupcakes, gourmet burgers, curries and bunny chow, plus smoothies and fresh-pressed juices – a great destination for an inner-city weekday lunch.

For afternoon drinks, head to the Brass Bar upstairs (City Central food traders open Mon–Fri 08:00–18:00. First Sat of the month pop-up market 09:00–15:00. First Thu of the month, all open until 22:00). Upstairs on the mezzanine floor overlooking the hall is Bridge Books, an independent bookstore selling new and second-hand books with a focus on African writers. In a short space of time Griffin Shea’s bookshop has become a literary hotspot hosting regular book club meetings with local authors on Saturdays at lunchtime, and other book events (tel. +27 79 708 4461, www.bridgebooks.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun). Next door to City Central is the Pop Up Arcade which connects Commissioner Street to Library Square. Slated to open soon, plans for the arcade include a collection of pop-up clothing and accessories boutiques. On the edge of Library Square visit the grand Johannesburg City Library, a prime example of Italianate design (by John Perry), which first opened in 1935 and was recently given a spectacular facelift.

The city blocks bounded to the north and south by Main and Pritchard Streets and to the east and west by Sauer and Simmonds Streets were traditionally the heart of the city’s financial district. Although much of the corporate world has since moved to Sandton, First National Bank still has a big presence here. In Joburg’s early years this was the territory of Cecil John Rhodes and his fellow mining magnates, known as the Randlords, who spent their evenings at the member’s-only club, The Rand Club (33 Loveday St, RandClubJohannesburg). After more than 128 years the club briefly closed its doors last year but has since reopened, complete with all its century-old colonial-era interiors intact, as a venue offering function and conference space and for regular events.

46 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Labelled Joburg’s ‘cultural precinct’, the Newtown precinct on the western edge of the city has been in almost constant state of renewal since the earliest days of the city.

Slums housing mineworkers and brick makers, as well as tanneries, slaughterhouses and rough and ready taverns soon followed the discovery of gold and were later razed in 1911 to make way for the city’s main fruit and vegetable market. These imposing buildings are still here but have long-since been repurposed.

On Mary Fitzgerald Square one such building houses Museum Africa, a vast museum space. Meanwhile, one block over, the old Potato Sheds have recently been restored and now house Work Shop New Town shopping emporium, which has one of the best collections of local designer fashion and jewellery brands (see Shopping for details). Occupying the space between Newtown Junction shopping mall’s lively piazza and the famous Market Theatre (see What’s On), the structure is part of a concerted move to remake the heart of Newtown into an accessible, coherent and pedestrianised district. Urban picnics and parties are held on the grassy lawns facing where the trains used to bring the goods to market (you can still see the tracks), and the steampunk-inspired The Potato Shed restaurant (see Where to Eat) occupies a corner of the building serving delectable barbecued meats, craft beers and (of course) all manner of potato-based dishes.

Other newcomers to the area include the business hotel chain City Lodge (see Where to Stay) which faces the Newtown Junction mall and the photography school and studios of the relocated Market Photo Workshop, which should be ready to open by the end of the year (cnr Rahima Moosa and Miriam Makeba Sts). Opposite the City Lodge Hotel what was once an Edwardian gentleman’s toilet (ironically one of Newtown’s most significant heritage buildings) has been repurposed into a glamorous pop-up party venue, with the porcelain urinals becoming velvet lined armchairs and an Instagram-worthy bar counter that is peppered with Victorian curiosities. With a capacity of around 40 people and only open on Thursdays (or for private functions), Gentlemen’s Arthouse is the kind of place where to visit you’ll need to join a waiting list (tel. +27 10 592 1911, www.gentlemensarthouse.com. Booking is essential).

A few blocks over at 65 Ntemi Piliso Street is Turbine Hall, a former power station that is surely one of the city’s most impressive restoration projects. Part of the building is now the offices of mining company AngloGold Ashanti, while renowned events company The Forum Company owns the industrial-chic function spaces – the regular popup ‘Underground Dinners’ are a unique evening in the city not to be missed (www.theforum.co.za). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Main Street’s gold rush MAP: B-4 GETTING THERE: The entrance to the Newtown Junction parking lot is on Gwigwi Mrwebi St (at the corner of the pedestrianised Miriam Makeba St). The City Sightseeing bus stop is in front of the City Lodge Newtown Hotel.

 ONE ELOFF

This newcomer, just south of Gandhi Square at 1 Eloff Street, brings another lesser-known corner of the city centre into the spotlight. A former holding facility for Chrysler and Rolls-Royce cars, the building (next to the Faraday taxi rank and traditional medicine market) is an unusual 1950s gem, once nicknamed Motortown. Parking is on the rooftop, reached by a ramp that winds around the building and boasts impressive views of the eastern edge of the city.

Painted in blue and yellow, One Eloff stands out boldly in the cityscape. Recently converted into a residential building, on the ground floor you’ll find a landscaped urban alleyway, Joziburg Lane, leading to the Joziburg foodhall, bar and deli, which has a block-party atmosphere at weekends (E-6, cnr Eloff and Wemmer Jubilee Sts, City Centre, tel. +27 82 894 5216, joziburglane.co.za. Open Tue–Sat 10:00–17:00, Fri nights 17:00–22:00. City tours by JoburgPlaces start here Tue–Sat 09:00–14:00, R350 per person, www.joburgplaces.com).

MAP: D-5 GETTING THERE: 10 minute’s walk from the Metrobus terminus on Gandhi Square. There is free parking on the roof of the building.

 MABONENG PRECINCT

The work of a single property-development company, the inner-city district of Maboneng has been converted from century-old rundown industrial warehouses and factories to a happening lifestyle playground that now stretches across several regenerated city blocks. The first developments began on Fox Street with the pioneering Arts on Main, filled with artists’ studios and cafés and the location for the busy Sunday Market on Main. Then came the Main Street Life building on the next block with plenty of cafés and small boutiques as well as The Bioscope, an independent cinema, the 12 Decades Hotel and POP Art Theatre. Maboneng has since expanded up Fox Street from Berea Road all the way to Auret Street, with buildings being converted into apartments, restaurants, cafés, bars, pop-ups and boutiques. At 302 Fox Street you’ll find the ex-

Bridge Books, City Central, Commissioner Street

cellent backpackers hostel, Curiocity (now also in Durban), whose young and energetic owner Bheki Dube also runs MainStreetWalks, a company leading inventive and informative walking and cycling tours through the inner-city, as well as shorter walks through the Maboneng Precinct focusing on the area’s colourful street art and other hidden sights (see Sightseeing for tour details).

Parallel to Fox Street, development is continuing apace along Commissioner Street with the ambitious Museum of African Design now joined by a new neighbour The Cosmopolitan, a beautiful old Victorian hotel that is a local heritage landmark. Reopened in July 2016 the rooms have become small shops and exhibitions spaces, and downstairs there’s a bar and restaurant and a courtyard sculpture garden (see Shopping). On the opposite side of the street is Maverick Corner, a cluster of small shops, cafés and bars, which include Shakers cocktail bar and Lenin’s Vodka Bar (see Nightlife).

Maboneng’s most recent phase lies to the north of Albertina Sisulu Road and its large scale is testament to the long-term vision and big ambitions of its pioneering owners. New on the block is AGOG art gallery and The Nine Barrels wine bar (see Nightlife), while future plans include the launch of Hallmark House, a 14-storey apartment block and hotel designed by British ‘starchitect’ David Adjaye.

MAP: G-4 GETTING THERE: Not walkable from the central business district. If using public transport take the C-1 Rea Vaya bus from Chancellor House, Library Gardens or Carlton Centre and get off at the Jeppe SAPS stop.

Hot Desking Boardroom Facilities 34 Simmonds St info@urbanocean.co.za

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September 2016 – January 2017 47

Sightseeing

Bheki Dube’s MainStreetWalks

TOURS CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS Great for families, this open-top, hop-on hop-off bus starts its circular route at Gautrain Park Station in the city and has 11 stops that include the Apartheid Museum, Carlton Centre and Constitution Hill, accompanied by an insightful audio guide. The bus takes two hours to complete its circuit of central and southern Joburg. The bus also links to a whistle-stop two-hour minibus tour of Soweto from Gold Reef City (every hour between 10:05–14:05) and a free walking tour from Park Station (tours at 10:30, 13:00 and 15:30). In September, a new route launches from Rosebank. Stops will include the Johannesburg Zoo.QTel. 0861 733 287, www.citysightseeing.co.za/johannesburg. Buses leave from Park Station every 30–40 mins. First bus 09:00, last bus 15:40. Tickets from R190 (R170 online).

JOHANNESBURG HERITAGE FOUNDATION This advocacy organisation organises a diverse range of worthwhile weekend walking and bus tours focused on the city’s history and architecture.QTel. +27 11 482 3349, www.joburgheritage.org.za. Tours from R130.

MAINSTREETWALKS Based in downtown Joburg’s trendy Maboneng precinct, Bheki Dube’s walking-tour company encourages visitors to discover the inner-city’s history, art, architecture, bars and myriad communities on foot and by bike. Tours include major landmarks as well as more unusual places like Joburg’s Ethiopian Quarter and the historic KwaMaiMai traditional healers market.QG-4, 302 Fox St, Curiocity Backpackers, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 880 9583, www.mainstreetwalks.co.za. Two- to four-hour tours from R250.

48 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

PAST EXPERIENCES Choose from a range of well-researched offbeat walking tours that take in the inner city, its communities, buildings, history and street art, as well as tailor-made walking and shopping tours. Particularly well-known for their graffiti tours.QTel. +27 11 678 3905, www.pastexperiences. co.za. Tours from R190.

MUSEUMS APARTHEID MUSEUM Powerful displays and interactive elements bring to life the horrors of apartheid, from its petty cruelties to state repression and violence, telling the story of the struggle for democracy through everyday heroes and historical leaders.QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. +27 11 309 4700, www. apartheidmuseum.org. Open 09:00–17:00. Admission R80, children, pensioners and students R65. K CONSTITUTION HILL This large complex includes the colonial-era Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the Constitutional Court. Extensive exhibitions reveal shocking details about the brutality of apartheid’s prison system and stories of the daily struggle for dignity are told through the eyes of the many ordinary and notable people such as Gandhi and Nelson Mandela, who passed through this place. The impressive modern Constitutional Court building has a notable contemporary art collection, alone worth a visit.QD-1/2, cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, www. constitutionhill.org.za. Open 09:00–17:00.

Admission R55, price includes a guided tour, last tours at 16:00, Wed, Sat, Sun at 13:00. K johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing DITSONG MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY Two historic hangars house a variety of thematic displays that cover key events in South African military history such as the Anglo-Zulu War and the Anglo-Boer wars, illustrated by an impressive range of military vehicles, uniforms and weaponry.Q20 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold, tel. +27 10 001 3515, www.ditsong.org.za. Open 09:00–16:30, Sat–Sun 09:00–16:30 (closed between 12:00–13:00). Admission R40, children R30, pensioners R20.

ELLIS PARK RUGBY MUSEUM Now known as Emirates Airline Park, Ellis Park stadium’s quirky rugby museum contains the biggest collection of South African rugby memorabilia. Fans can also book a behind-the-scenes tour of the stadium.QEmirates Airline Park, 44 Staib St, Doornfontein. Rugby Museum open weekdays 10:00–15:00 (entrance via main gate). Call James Dalton Snr on +27 82 791 9992 to book a visit.

JAMES HALL MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT The largest transport museum in Africa, the impressive collection of historic vehicles includes vintage cars, motorbikes, horse-drawn wagons, fire engines, penny farthing bicycles and even steam-powered tractors.QPioneers’ Park, Rosettenville Rd, La Rochelle, www.jhmt.org.za. Open 09:00–16:30, Sat, Sun 09:00–17:00 (closed between 12:00–13:00). Closed Mon. Entrance is free.

LILIESLEAF In the early 1960s this farm was the secret headquarters of the resistance movement and the place where the plans for an armed struggle against apartheid were formulated.

The engrossing displays provide an in-depth and interactive look at the lives of the anti-apartheid leaders who gathered here.Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, www.liliesleaf.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00. Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00. Admission R90, children 8–17 years old R40, under 7, free. Guided tours from R140. K

Lindfield House, Auckland Park

five minute guided tours of the caves leave every half-hour and are suitable for children.QR400 off R563 Hekpoort Rd, Sterkfontein, tel. +27 14 577 9100, www.maropeng. co.za. Vistors’ centre open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. Admission R120. Sterkfontein Caves open 09:00–17:00 daily. Admission R165. Combination ticket (Maropeng and caves) R190. Discounted prices for kids, students and pensioners. Last tours at both sites at 16:00.

ORIGINS CENTRE This must-see museum explores and celebrates the history of modern humans, tracing the emergence of humanity along an 80 000-year path to its African source. Exhibits include an extensive collection of rock art, paleoanthropological and archeological materials, including ancient tools and artefacts of spiritual significance to early humans.QB-2 Wits University campus, cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, www.origins.org.za.

Open 10:00–17:00. Admission R80, students R45, kids under 12 R40. Guided tour R200.

LINDFIELD HOUSE This unique monument to Victorian and Edwardian life is presided over by Katherine Love, who has spent a lifetime collecting objects from her favourite era. Be transported as Love, dressed in Victorian costume, guides you through 18 lavishly decorated rooms that conjure the everyday life of that time.

Q72 Richmond Ave, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 726 2932, http://lindfield.wix.com/museum. Open 10:00–17:00, by appointment only. Tours from R50, children R30. Tour and high tea, R120.

SOPHIATOWN – THE MIX In 1955 the apartheid government bulldozed the vibrant multiracial suburb of Sophiatown and forced its non-white residents to move to distant new townships. The Mix is the site of a modern community centre incoporating the house museum of the 1940s ANC president, the late Dr A.B. Xuma, which is dedicated to the culture of old Sophiatown and the memory of the forced removals.Q71–73 Toby St, cnr Edward Rd, Sophiatown, tel. +27 11 673 1271 or +27 83 550 7130, www.sophiatown.net. Open 09:00–16:30.

Closed Sun (visits on Sun by prior arrangement). Museum admission R35, tour R70. Sophiatown walking tour R120.

MAROPENG AND STERKFONTEIN CAVES Maropeng is the visitors’ centre for the Unesco-protected World Heritage site, the Cradle of Humankind. A visit to this impressive towering structure takes you on a journey spiralling into the earth, led by interactive exhibitions that outline the history of the universe from the Big Bang to the present day, with a special focus on humankind’s evolution.

A short drive away are the Sterkfontein Caves, where the remains of world-famous hominids were discovered. Forty-

SCI-BONO DISCOVERY CENTRE Get switched on at the science museum, where the exhibits engage and entertain growing minds and there’s something for all ages. Regular, themed exhibitions and talks are part of the programme. Note that entrance to temporary exhibitions carry an additional admission charge.QB-4, Cnr Miriam Makeba and Helen Joseph Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 639 8400, www.sci-bono.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30–16:30. Admission R45, kids 3–16, R10.

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September 2016 – January 2017 49

Sightseeing: Soweto

Hussain van Roos of Fixin Diaries Andy Carrie, courtesy of Soweto Wine and Lifestyle Festival (www.swlf.co.za) In 1976 the name Soweto (first used in 1963 to describe the South West Townships created to keep black South Africans away from white Joburg) became globally synonymous with the anti-apartheid struggle as youth rose up to fight against inferior education. But the history of Soweto goes back a lot further to the 1930s when it housed black workers who had flocked to the goldfields since 1886 in search of work. Today Soweto is home to around 1.5 million people and its neighbourhoods range from Kliptown’s informal shacklands to the mansions of Diepkloof Extension, also known as Diepkloof Expensive.

A top tourist attraction, Vilakazi Street is the heart of tourist Soweto. More like a city, this ‘township’ has worthwhile historical sites, a vibrant contemporary social scene and exciting new entrepreneurial initiatives.

GETTING THERE The seemingly endless identical streets and lack of consistent signs and numbers can be bewildering and may not be updated on your GPS, but if you do plan to drive yourself around Soweto the main tourist destinations are well signposted. To really make the most of a first time visit it is best to take a tour with a local guide.

WHAT TO SEE CREDO MUTWA CULTURAL VILLAGE This quirky sculpture park, located inside Oppenheimer Park, is a unique representation of African mythology. Built in the 1970s by traditional healer and sculptor Credo Mutwa, the village is now looked after by enthusiastic caretaker Lebohang Sello (tel. +27 78 810 2664) who will happily explain the complex meanings behind Mutwa’s mystical and prophetic sculptures. You can also take in a panoramic view of the entire township by climbing the nearby Oppenheimer Tower. Built using bricks made from the ashes of the houses destroyed to build the township, each of the 49 steps represents a different Soweto suburb.QOppenheimer Park, 91 Bochabela St, Jabavu Central, Soweto.

50 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

HECTOR PIETERSON MUSEUM AND MEMORIAL This extensive museum is unquestionably Soweto’s best.

Startling photography, personal testimonies, videos and informative texts are used to great effect to provide an indepth examination of the events leading up to the Soweto uprising of 1976 and in particular the terrible events of June 16 when scores of protesting Sowetan schoolchildren were killed by the police. Please note no cameras are allowed inside the museum.Q8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel +27 11 536 0611. Open 10:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:00. Admission R30, children 6–12 R5, 13 years old and above R10.

KLIPTOWN MUSEUM This often overlooked museum next to the upmarket Soweto Hotel brings the story of the Freedom Charter and the 1955 Congress of the People to life. Creative displays detail the increasing levels of oppression that South Africanss faced under apartheid, as well as the peaceful efforts made by people from all walks of life to lobby for a free and democratic South Africa. After visiting the museum, take in the bustling main street of historic Kliptown which skirts around the square, with its general dealers and traditional medicine shops, and finish off your visit with a signature Kliptini cocktail at the hotel.QWalter Sisulu Square, cnr Union St and Main Rd, Kliptown, Soweto, tel +27 11 945 2200. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

NELSON MANDELA HOUSE MUSEUM Nelson Mandela lived in this humble ‘matchbox’ house with his second wife Winnie in the late 1950s and early 1960s. In order to make the house into a museum the building has been considerably altered. Inside, the small rooms are now filled with memorabilia belonging to the pair, including letters, gifts and awards, as well as some original items of furniture. A small museum, the visit will not take much more than 15 minutes..Q8115 Orlando West, Soweto, tel +27 11 936 7754, open 09:00–17:00. Admission R60 (citizens of African Union countries R40), kids over 6 years R20, kids under 6, R5. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing: Soweto REGINA MUNDI CHURCH Rockville’s Catholic Church, built in 1964, played a hugely significant role in the struggle against apartheid and even has the bullet holes to prove it. This was also the place where Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu presided over the Truth and Reconciliation Commission hearings from 1995 to 1998.Q1149 Khumalo St, off Elias Motsoaledi Rd, Rockville, Soweto, tel +27 11 986 2546, Open 09:00– 17:00. Sunday services 07:00, 09:00. Admission R20.

TOURS LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS Run by local tourism pioneer Lebo Malepa, Lebo's bicycle tours are a must-do. The less-athletic get the option of a tuktuk tour, so you have no excuse. Choose from two-hour, halfday or full-day tours of Soweto, taking in everything from struggle history, shebeens and church culture to street art, local delicacies and traditional African customs. Tours start and end at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers where you can kick back with a cold drink and a delicious homemade bunny chow in the park adjoining the backpackers. Tours can be customised and transfers from Joburg hotels can be arranged.Q10823A Pooe St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444 or +27 87 353 4440, www.sowetobicycletours.com.

Bicycle tours from R430, tuk-tuk tours from R385. Group discounts available.

SOWETOO Operated in collaboration with the City Sightseeing bus, this minibus tour leaves five times a day from Gold Reef City and takes visitors on a two-hour whistle-stop tour of Soweto with six stops including Vilakazi Street and Walter Sisulu Square.QGold Reef City, Cnr Northern Parkway and Data Cres, Ormonde, tel. 0861 73 32 87, www.citysightseeing. co.za/joburg. Buses leave every hour from 10:05–14:05.

TKD TOURS Charming local guide Ntokozo Dube (also known as TK) specialises in walking tours of Kliptown, a poor neighbourhood with a rich history. Tours are flexible and adapt to the interests of each group, whether it be the traditional medicine stalls, historic architecture, community gardens, graffiti or street food that catch your eye. TK can also connect visitors to local NGOs for some volunteer work.QCall Ntokozo Dube +27 73 133 5234 or e-mail tktours.dube13@gmail. com to book. Tours from R250.

WHERE TO STAY LEBO’S SOWETO BACKPACKERS This 22-bed backpackers hostel has it all: comfy dorms, private rooms or space to pitch your tent, plus a kitchen for self-catering, or enjoy a home-cooked meal before retreating to the lively beach-style bar. Other attractions include fireside-storytelling evenings, gigs and bicycle, walking and tuk-tuk tours of Soweto (see above for details).

Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.sowetobackpackers.com. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

SOWETO HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE An upmarket hotel in an historically rich location. The elegant Jazz Maniacs restaurant here serves contemporary South African cuisine with a local twist.QWalter Sisulu Square, cnr Union Ave and Main Rd, Kliptown, tel. +27 11 527 7300, www.sowetohotel.co.za.

VILAKAZI STREET Probably the most famous street in all of Soweto, Vilakazi Street lays claim to two Nobel Peace Prizewinning residents – Nelson Mandela (who lived here with his then wife Winnie in the late 1950s and early 1960s) and Rev. Desmond Tutu. A social hub for Soweto’s hipster youth and middle classes you’ll find plenty of restaurants, including the famous Sakhumzi, a bustling spot for tourists and locals in search of local tastes like mogudu (tripe) and amadombolo (dumplings), and the Mandela Family Restaurant. There is also a great choice of trendy new additions that have opened on the street in the past year, such as Vuyo’s contemporary African restaurant, the always lively KwaLichaba pub and shisa nyama (barbecue) and the distinctive Box Shop, a new development constructed from shipping containers, with a cool rooftop coffee bar. There are also lots of public artworks lining the street, plenty of souvenir stalls, and the excellent Hector Pieterson Museum and Memorial is a twominute walk away.

September 2016 – January 2017 51

Sightseeing: Soweto NTOZINHLE ACCESSORIES Sphelele Chikowi’s Soweto store is a magnet for women looking for unique and handmade African accessories.

Q7323 Phiri St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 058 8445, find them on Instagram. Open 09:00–18:00. Closed Mon. ORLANDO TOWERS These colourfully painted cooling towers are a magnet for thrill-seekers. Bungee, swing or SCAD Fall from the top before heading to the buzzing Chaf Pozi for a shisa nyama lunch.

QCnr Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Sts, Orlando, tel. +27 71 674 4343, www.orlandotowers.co.za. Open Fri–Sun 10:00 until sunset or by prior arrangement.

Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers, Orlando West

SOWETO COOL

SOWETO ART AND CRAFT FAIR A family-friendly market with local crafts, food and fashion, held at the landmark Soweto Theatre. The free concerts on the open-air stage by well-known local bands are a popular attraction.QSoweto Theatre, cnr Bolani and Bolani Links Rds, Jabulani, tel. +27 11 930 7461, www.sowetotheatre. com. Open first Sat of the month from 12:00–21:00.

FIXIN DIARIES Previously a spaza shop, this is now a cutting-edge bike shop based in Pimville and known for creating the hippest cycling events.Q475 Bokunku Street, Pimville, Soweto, tel. +27 84 851 8681.

THESIS CONCEPT STORE This trailblazing store has been selling its own brand since 2008, referencing Soweto street culture. Their slogan T-shirts and ‘bucket’ hats have become cult items.Q173 Machaba Dr, Mofolo, tel. +27 11 982 1182, thesissocialjamsession. blogspot.com. Open 10:30–19:30. Closed Mon.

LOCRATE MARKET Trendy monthly market promoting local art, food, fashion and design brands complemented by local DJs and live performances.QCnr Kudu and Moema Sts, Orlando West, tel. +27 73 521 9035, www.locratemarket.co.za. Open first Sun of the month 10:00–17:00.

UBUNTU KRAAL KASI BEER GARDEN Home of Soweto Gold craft beer. Tour the brewery before heading to the beer garden for a tasting and to sample the lip-smacking ‘gourmet township grill’ menu.Q111846 Senokoanyana St, Orlando West Ext, tel. +27 74 738 0355, www. sowetogold.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

SOWETO MAP

52 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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Outdoors CYCLING

Johannesburg Zoo

Justin Lee

FAMILY FUN ACROBRANCH Test your skills and your mettle by ziplining from tree to tree across a rugged wooded area of Melrose (strict safety procedures in place). Five courses to choose from, plus the Big Zip Line.QMelrose St Ext, James and Ethel Gray Park, Melrose, tel. +27 86 999 0369, www.acrobranch.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. From R200, children R100.

GOLD REEF CITY THEME PARK The best amusement and theme park, with attractions for all ages. Opt for extreme rides like the Anaconda, Jozi Express and Tower of Terror, or a gentle train ride around the park with a soft-serve ice cream in hand. Visit a disused mine shaft, try gold panning and tour a recreated mining village.QCnr Northern Parkway and Data Cres., Ormonde, tel. +27 11 248 6800, www.goldreefcity.co.za. Open Wed–Sun 09:30– 17:00, daily during school holidays. Admission R190.

JOHANNESBURG ZOO Pack a picnic and walk on the wild side on close to 54 hectares to view nearly 2 000 animals. There’s an impressive collection of creatures, including the Big 5, white lions, a reptile house, bird gardens and a farmyard.QJan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 2000, www.jhbzoo.org. za. Open 08:30–17:00. Admission R80, children (3–12 years) R50.

JOZI X Catering for the superactive, from five to 75 years old, Jozi X offers fun for extreme-adventure fans. There’s mountain boarding, a slackline park, big-wheel trike drifting, a parkour gym and the star attraction: an extreme wipeout course.

QCnr Main Rd and Sloane St, Bryanston, tel. +27 82 456 2358, www.jozix.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00 by appointment only. Admission R100 Wed–Fri, R120 weekends.

MONTECASINO BIRD GARDENS With hundreds of fascinating bird species, from domestic to exotic, birds of prey plus a huge pelican, this is a super attraction for all ages. Visit in time for the extraordinary Flight of Fantasy bird shows, on weekends and public holidays at 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00.QMontecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 511 1864, www.montecasino.co.za. Open 08:30– 17:00. Admission age 10 and up R70, under 10, R39. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Cycling in Joburg is a popular leisure activity, and new dedicated lanes can be found in Braamfontein, Sandton Central and Soweto. However, cyclists should still be cautious on the city’s roads. It is not uncommon to find cars parked in bike lanes, and Joburg drivers are notoriously oblivious of other road users. If you are cycling on the road it can be safest to do so with a group, and, of course, always wear a helmet. Cycling fans will enjoy Critical Mass, the monthly night ride through the inner-city (last Fri of every month at 19:00, starting at cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, jhb.criticalmass. co.za), or join one of these tours.

ALEXANDRA BICYCLE TOURS Local tour guide and cycling fanatic Jeff Mulaudzi takes small groups on unique two- or four-hour cycling tours of Joburg’s oldest and most densely populated township Alexandra (known as Alex). Starting and ending at Marlboro Gautrain station (one stop from Sandton), tours visit historical landmarks as well as places where you can learn about local culture, such as churches, markets and shebeens.QTel. +27 71 279 3654, www. alexandratours. co.za. Tours cost from R450 to R550.

EAST CITY CYCLE TOUR Based at the Curiocity Backpackers in the fashionable downtown Maboneng precinct, these two-and-a-halfhour cycling tours visit some of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods such as Troyeville and Doornfontein, taking in the historic architecture and impressive contemporary street art that characterises these areas.QTel. +27 11 614 0163. Tours leave Sat and Sun at 15:00, or are available by prior arrangement. Cost from R250.

LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS Tour Soweto by bike with Soweto’s original cycling tour company. See our Soweto pages for details.

MOUNTAIN BIKING ROUTES For off-road cycling follow the Braamfontein Spruit, a small river with a dedicated path that leads from the Melville Koppies through Delta Park and northwards to Bryanston and Leeuwkop (25km one-way or a 50km loop, you can turn back at any point). A 40-minute drive north of Joburg, the Cradle of Humankind is also popular with mountain bikers and there’s a choice of well-maintained trails which start from the Sterkfontein Caves. Meanwhile in the south of the city, the Thaba Trails which wind through the 450-hectare Klipriviersberg Reserve, offer a choice of relatively easy to superchallenging trails ranging from 15km-30km (101 Klip River Dr, entrance via the Southern Brickyard, Mulbarton, tel. +27 11 867 8047, thabatrails.webs.com). For more on MTB trails in Joburg and elsewhere in South Africa, check out the website www.mtbroutes.co.za.

September 2016 – January 2017 53

Shopping

Maxhosa by Laduma Trevor Stuurman

COOL AND QUIRKY SHOPS COLLECTIVE BY CHARLES GREIG NEW This sister store to Charles Greig Jewellers in Hyde Park stocks an exquisite range of contemporary luxury items, from Kenyan designer Anna Trzebinski’s hand-made feathered pashminas to one-of-a-kind jewelled pieces, leather goods and Africology spa products. A treasure trove of beautiful items.QShop 119, Nelson Mandela Square, 5th St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 883 9393, www.collectiveafrica.co.za. Open 09:00–20:00, Sun 09:00–18:00.

COLLECTORS TREASURY This bookshop, specialising in second-hand and rare editions, was founded in 1974, and stocks a dizzying array of books, maps and collectibles, spread over a few floors of an eight-storey city block.QF-4, CTP House, 244 Commissioner St, City Centre, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 334 6556. www.antiqbook.com/bookdealer. phtml?o=collectorstreasury. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Closed Sun. FIREHOUSE Supporting local enterprise this Dunkeld store, tucked behind the popular Fournos Bakery, stocks linen, ceramics, tableware, costume jewellery and homewares, from essentials to luxury gifts and art pieces. You can expect charming service, gifting advice plus impressive gift wrapping.Q6 Dunkeld West Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 325 2225, www.firehouse. co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun. HALSTED Fee Halsted set up Ardmore Farm in the late 1980s in rural KwaZulu-Natal, combining Western ceramics techniques with African art, working with young artists to create mesmerising pieces, inspired by the natural environment and local folkloric traditions. Halsted translates these ceramic motifs into homeware fabrics and accessories.QShop 17, Hyde Square, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and North Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 5865, www.halsteddesign.com.

Open 09:00–16:30, Sat 09:00–14:30. Closed Sun. 54 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

IWASSHOT IN JOBURG :) Joburg’s gritty streets catch the camera lens of I WasShot in Joburg, an innovative photography collective of young men formerly from a children’s shelter. Their images of the city’s streets decorate walls, notebooks and household items, and make great souvenirs and gifts.QG-4, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 922 5674, www.iwasshot.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–14:00. Also at Rosebank Mall.

LOVE JOZI This T-shirt and design company mixes urban fashion with social consciousness and a witty take on the rise of Joburg as a world city. The place to buy well-cut T-shirts and homeware objects and accessories with bold, city-inspired graphic prints. The store shares space with top-drawer fashion label Black Coffee.QFind Love Jozi and Black Coffee at 44 Stanley (details on p. 56).

MAXHOSA BY LADUMA From being featured in Italian Vogue to winning ‘the most beautiful object in South Africa’ title at Design Indaba, the premier South African design gathering, this knitwear brand is making waves globally. Founded in 2010 by Laduma Ngxokolo, the range is inspired by manhood rituals of the South African Xhosa people, and Ngxokolo uses patterns, beadwork configurations and symbolism from this rich culture in his contemporary designs for him and her.

QFind the Maxhosa by Laduma store at Work Shop New Town (details on p. 56).

MAKOTIS NEW Makotis (‘bride’ in Zulu) is run by the Wadee family who have been selling traditional fabrics and bespoke garments (including clothing for traditional weddings) since 1961. A sister store to the original shop in the fashion district (112 Helen Joseph St), you can browse for unique shweshwe fabrics in the biggest range of colours and prints, and then arrange a fitting with the tailor.QG-4, Cnr Kruger and Main Sts, Maboneng, tel. +27 10 900 4158, www. makotis.co.za. Open 10:00–17:00 (Fri closed between 12:30–14:00), Sat, Sun10:00–16:00. Closed Mon. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Makotis, Maboneng; on the right, Odeon, Mall of Africa

MELVILL & MOON The Melvill family are besotted with all things safari, including vintage collectibles. Their hand-made leather and canvas luggage will have you looking the part for your wildlife adventure. So many items to choose from, but no self-respecting explorer should leave home without the Serengeti Sundowner, a leather tote to store six wine glasses.Q4 Desmond St, Kramerville, tel. +27 11 272 5030, www.melvillandmoon.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. MISSIBABA NEW This luxury accessories label, started by Cape-Town based Chloe Townsend in 2005, produces covetable hand-stitched leather bags. Its new flagship store on Keyes Art Mile showcases their summer range of handbags embellished with hand-stitched leather motifs in glamorous metallic and vibrant hues of leather. From clutches to totes, and must-have fabric purses, each item is a statement piece.Q19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880 2099, www.missibaba. com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun.

BOUTIQUE SHOPPING 44 STANLEY Set in a converted 1930s industrial complex, 44 Stanley is a charming space with lots of cute courtyard cafés shaded by olive trees and plenty of chic little boutiques. For fashion, look out for Guillotine by Lisa Jaffe for form-fitting tailored clothing, Black Coffee for artfully constructed fashion statement items, and Love Jozi for iconic T-shirts and homeware objects that celebrate Joburg (the two labels share a store).

There’s also a super collection of homeware stores, nail bar Polish, and excellent coffee plus fairtrade African beans to take home from Bean There.Q44 Stanley Ave (cnr Owl St), Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4444, www.44stanley.co.za.

Open 10:00–16:00 and Sun 10:00–15:00. Note many shops and cafés do not open on Mon.

NORMAN GOODFELLOWS Not just another bottle store, Norman Goodfellows has been around for 40 years and specialises in expert advice and service and stocks the broadest range of local and imported alcohol brands. Nowhere in Joburg can boast a better selection of top South African and international wine labels, craft spirits and craft beers. Order online or visit this flagship store. Branches also in Benmore and Melrose Arch.

Q192 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 10 140 4888, www.ngf. co.za. Open 08:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–14:00, Closed Sun.

THE COSMOPOLITAN NEW Maboneng’s newest attraction is an extraordinary Victorian building designed in 1899 that had a stint as a city hotel but then spent decades boarded up. The owners of Hazard Gallery have sensitively converted this run-down space, and it now houses a concept store, The Cosmpolitan, with a number of small branded shops that stock designer items, including hatwear by milliner Crystal Birch and luxury African tea brand Yswara. A superb sculpture garden occupies the courtyard. The Comopolitan Bar serves up gastropub wine-paired dishes by chef Dario de Angeli.

QG-4, 24 Albrecht St, Maboneng, City Centre, www.thecosmopolitan.joburg. Shops and gallery open Tue–Sun 10:00–17:00, The Cosmpolitan Bar, tel. +27 82 422 8158, open Wed–Sat 12:00–22:–30, Sun 12:00–18:00.

ODEON NEW Curated by Trevyn and Julian McGowan who champion southern African design, Odeon specialises in handcrafted tableware. Here you’ll find glassware, decor objets and linen.

For your dining room or kitchen table look out for Wonki Ware ceramic platters, knives forged from recycled steel by blacksmith artist Conrad Hicks and exquisite hand-blown recycled glassware from Swaziland’s Ngwenya Glass.QMall of Africa, Lone Creek and Magwa Crescs, Waterfall City, Midrand, tel. +27 11 517 2419, www.odeon.co.za. Open 09h00–20h00, Sun and public holidays 10h00–20h00.

WORK SHOP NEW TOWN This stylish shopping emporium is housed in the historic Potato Sheds built in 1911 as part of Joburg’s original fruit and vegetable market in Newtown. It showcases an exciting array of fashion and design brands such as Maria McCloy’s colourful accessories and shoes (for him and her) in vibrant African prints, Pichulik’s statement necklaces crafted from rope, and Xhosa-inspired knitwear label Maxhosa by Laduma.

QB-4, Cnr Miriam Makeba and Gwigwi Mrwebi Sts, Newtown (secure parking at Newtown Junction), www.workshopnewtown.com. Open 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–15:00.

56 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

1 Fox Market Shed, Ferreirasdorp; on the right, Rosebank Sunday Market

MARKETS Head to one or more of Joburg’s many markets to mingle with locals, eat tasty food, sample craft beer, shop and keep the whole family entertained. With each offering different attractions, there’s something for every taste.

1 FOX MARKET SHED Located at 1 Fox Precinct in the heart of Joburg’s old mining district, this weekly market offers up an array of tasty local and international street food, ranging from pulled pork sandwiches to Greek seafood. You can also shop for unique local arts and crafts, clothing in bright African prints, jewellery and accessories.QB-5, 1Fox Precinct, 14 Alexander St (entrance at 1 Fox St), Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, www.1fox.co.za. Open Fri–Sun 10:00–18:00, 10:00–16:00, last Fri of the month 10:00–22:00.

BRYANSTON ORGANIC & NATURAL MARKET Joburg’s original family outdoor market offers a superb range of organic goods and products in a relaxed environment. You’ll find African arts and crafts, health and wellness products, plenty of organic and preservative-free homebaked goods, plus authentic Panama hats. There’s plenty of dreamcatchers and hammocks, and refreshingly not a hipster in sight.Q40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, www.bryanstonorganicmarket.co.za. Open Thu, Sat and public holidays 09:00–15:00.

FOURWAYS FARMERS’ MARKET A chilled rustic Sunday lunch spot with a countryside feel.

The focus is on food to eat now or later, and we recommend you arrive hungry. Live folk bands, haybale seating and a child-friendly environment.QCnr William Nicol Dr and Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, www.ffmarket.co.za.

Open Sun 09:00–16:00.

MARKET AT THE FORT This small monthly market set in the Constitution Hill courtyard attracts a youthful cool city crowd and deep house fans. You’ll find a mix of African food, fashion, natural haircare products, used books and vinyl.QD-2, Constitution Hill, 11 Kotze St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 81 561 0260, www.constitutionhill.org.za. Last Sat of every month from 10:00–17:00.

58 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

THE LOCRATE MARKET This hipster market mixes up tasty food, craft beers, cool handmade items and vintage finds with a distinctly Soweto buzz. Conveniently located for tourists visiting Soweto, it’s a short drive from the famous Vilakazi Street.QCnr Kudu and Moema Sts, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 73 521 9035, www.locratemarket.co.za. Open first Sun of the month 10:00–17:00.

MARKET ON MAIN Gourmet food stalls, a sunny courtyard and a craft brewery plus a fantastic selection of vintage clothing make this original city market a great Sunday destination. The market’s addictive atmosphere spills into the neighbouring streets.

QG-4, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 868 1335. www.marketonmain.co.za, Sun 10:00–15:00.

NEIGHBOURGOODS Jostle with the hipsters in queues for frozen mojitos, paella and other gourmet street food before heading one floor up for live music at this bustling rooftop market. Outside the market the bars fill up on any Saturday.QC-3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0413, www.neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/johannesburg, Sat 09:00–15:00.

ROSEBANK ART & CRAFT MARKET This is a one-stop spot for all your African souvenir needs.

With traders from across Africa you’ll find the widest range of hand-crafted items such as beaded sculptures, West African masks and quintessential Big Five figurines. ‘This is Africa. We Bargain’ is the market’s abiding motto.QRosebank Mall, Craddock Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 568 0850, www.artandcraftmarket.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 09:00–17:00.

ROSEBANK SUNDAY MARKET This huge covered market accommodates talented crafters, fashion stalls, antique bric-a-brac, farmhouse produce, vintage clothing and a fantastic kids’ play area, operated

by Clamber Club. The tasty selection of edibles includes Malaysian curries, Palestinian falafel, Thai street food and other exotic delights.QRosebank Mall (Level 4), cnr Bath and Baker Sts, Rosebank, www.rosebanksundaymarket. co.za. Open Sun 09:00–16:00. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

HOTSPOT: ROSEBANK This popular shopping district, with its malls interlinked by pedestrian walkways, has hundreds of stores as well as plenty of dining options. You’ll also find the best daily African craft market in the city, Rosebank Art & Craft Market, and a fun weekly rooftop market, the Rosebank Sunday Market (see opposite).

Rosebank Mall is the district’s heart, with an impressive array of local and international high-street brands, plus an arthouse cinema and gym. Stop in at Exclusive Books for the latest local and international titles, and linger for a flat white at the cool coffee bar. For camping and safari essentials visit Cape Union Mart, and buy unique Joburg postcards and notebooks at Iwasshot in Joburg :).

The pedestrianised Zone@Rosebank (at the Gautrain station entrance) and The Firs offer a wide choice of popular restaurant and fast-food chains, including international favourites Starbucks and Krispy Kreme, with plenty of streetside and courtyard seating. Enjoy blockbuster films at the cinema and shop here for youthful local fashion brands.

ROSEBANK MALLQEntrances on Baker St, Bath Ave and Craddock Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 5530, www.rosebankmall.co.za. Open from 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–17:00.

THE ZONE@ROSEBANKQ177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, www. thezoneatrosebank.co.za. Open Mon–Thu 09:00–19:00, Fri, Sat 09:00–21:00, Sun 10:00–17:00. Ground floor Mon–Thu 09:00–18:00, Fri, Sat 09:00–19:00, Sun 09:00–17:00. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

KEYES ART MILE Within walking distance of the malls of Rosebank is the start of Keyes Art Mile, an exciting new development set to revitalise a formerly quiet street and create a hub of art and design in Rosebank. The Trumpet building is the first to open (September 2016) along the strip, with a collaborative gallery from Southern Guild and Whatiftheworld, showcasing collectible design by leading artists from across the continent, a burger joint, BGR, a retro-chic African café, Milk Bar, the live-fire rooftop restaurant, Marble (see Where to Eat), and designer boutique stores Okapi and Missibaba. The building’s immense entrance hall is curated as a gallery space, and on the second floor is the members’ club, Mesh Club, which opens as a bar in the late afternoon.

Q19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, www.keyesartmile.co.za.

The Trumpet building, Rosebank

September 2016 – January 2017 59

Shopping

Jimmy Choo at Sandton City; buttons at Oriental Plaza, Fordsburg; Generation Store, Hyde Park

SHOPPING CENTRES Whether your taste is for local design, a boutique experience, limitless luxury items or bargains galore these stops will satisfy.

BAMBOO CENTRE This petite centre faces a row of interesting shops across 9th Street, Melville and looks out over the rugged Melville koppies. There’s a small but sophisticated collection of cafés and stores including Love Books, a cosy and inviting independent bookshop with a fine selection of South African and international titles, and Convoy, a fashion boutique showcasing clothing, jewellery and accessories by South African designers.QCnr Rustenburg Rd and 9th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 1701, www.bamboo-online.co.za.

Stores open 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–15:00.

HYDE PARK CORNER The place for swanky, premium designer European labels and to rub shoulders with socialites galore. A stylish and compact mall with lots of covetable international labels, this centre has good café-food options at Life and Tashas Le Parc.

Head to Generation Store for unique homeware pieces, and ultra-luxe fashion stores 2A, Callaghan Collezione and Apsley House for brands that include Hermes and Christian Louboutin. Charles Greig Jewellers, a family business started in the 1890s, has jewellery pieces to marvel at.QHyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 4340, www.hydeparkcorner.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sun and public holidays 10:00–15:00.

ORIENTAL PLAZA For a different pace to the malls of the northern suburbs, head to this thriving bazaar for bargain-priced fashion and haberdashery, wedding wear, shoes, toys and household goods. Shop for a dazzling array of saris and jeweled fabrics, armfuls of bracelets and hand-stitched Indian cotton quilts. Teens will love the many stores offering the season’s latest fashions, all the while fuelled by the legendary samoosas from the World of Samoosas kiosk.QA-4/5, 38 Bree St (now Lilian Ngoyi St), Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 838 6752, www.orientalplaza. co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. Many shops close Fri between 12:00–14:00 for prayers.

60 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

SANDTON CITY & NELSON MANDELA SQUARE Known as ‘Africa’s richest square mile’, central Sandton is a shopping mecca and the country’s financial capital, with hundreds of shops spread across interlinked covered malls.

The massive Sandton City is home to flagship stores for major local and international fashion, sports and design brands, a cinema multiplex and so much more. A shoppers’ paradise, once you figure out your way around you’ll find everything you need under one roof. Sandton City is also home to the glitzy Diamond Walk, the place to find global luxury household names like Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton and Cartier. Walk through Sandton City to Nelson Mandela Square with its welcoming piazza ringed by restaurants and bars (see Where to Eat).

A magnet for tourists and Africa’s business elite, the square is dominated by a giant bronze of Nelson Mandela. In the mall you’ll find Hamleys toy shop, the designer department store Luminance, stocking covetable international and local labels, and Presidential Shirts, a boutique selling colourful silk shirts so beloved by the late Nelson Mandela.QSandton City, Cnr Sandton Dr and Rivonia Rd, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 217 6000, www.sandtoncity.com. Open 09:00– 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00, public holidays 09:00–17:00.

Nelson Mandela Square, entrances on Maude and West Sts, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 217 6001, www.nelsonmandelasquare.co.za. Open 09:00–20:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–18:00. See map on p. 66.

THE PARKS For art shopping, Parkwood’s art gallery row along Jan Smuts Avenue, between Wells Avenue and Bolton Road is unbeatable (galleries closed Mon, Sun). Peruse a superb art book collection at David Krut Bookstore (140 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 880 5648, davidkrutbookstores.com), and find exquisite ceramics and hand-loomed Marigold beads at the Moorish-style Kim Sacks Gallery (153 Jan Smuts Ave, tel. +27 11 447 5804, www.kimsacksgallery.com). Parkhurst‘s 4th Avenue, between 5th and 14th Streets, is a popular high street with a village-like atmosphere and the place to browse for antiques, contemporary fashion or vintage clothing. Enjoy the neighbourhood’s café society on any day. Nonna is a destination store with an exciting array of South Africanmade items (Shop 9, The Cobbles Centre, 4th Ave, cnr 12th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11 447 8297, www.nonna.co.za). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg Basics

Downtown Joburg Justin Lee

24-HOUR CITY Joburg’s relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close before 22:00. Most galleries and museums are closed on Mondays, along with many restaurants. The city’s nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like cigarettes or airtime for your cellphone. Staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Traffic swells soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs just after sunrise.

ALCOHOL Wine can be bought in supermarkets and ‘bottle stores’, and local and imported beers and spirits only at bottle stores. Most restaurants will allow you to bring your own wine for a corkage fee. Different provinces have different rules regulating the sale of alcohol at retail stores. Generally speaking you can’t buy booze in a store after 15:00 on a Sunday and most bottle stores close by 17:00 on other days. The legal drinking age is 18. If driving be aware that the legal alcohol limit for being behind the wheel is very low; less than 0.05g per 100ml (blood) or less than 0.24mg in 1 000ml of breath (this amounts to about two drinks over the space of 75 minutes).

BANKING AND MONEY The South African unit of currency is the rand (ZAR) and notes bear the image of former president Nelson Mandela on one side and one of the Big Five on the other. There are 100c in each rand. Banknotes are issued in denominations of R200, R100, R50, R20 and R10. Coins come in R5, R2, R1, 50c, 20c, 10c and 5c units. Be especially careful with R20 and R200 notes as they look very similar in colour. South facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

Africa has a modern and sophisticated banking system. Foreign currency can be exchanged at bureaux de change and at most branches of the big four retail banks (Absa, FNB, Nedbank and Standard Bank). If you need foreign currency, check the bank’s requirements (documentation and account status) first since foreign notes are not always readily available. ATMs can be found everywhere and major credit and debit cards can be used at most retail and hospitality establishments (Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted).

JOBURG: BASIC FACTS NICKNAMES Egoli, Jozi, Joburg, Joeys, City of Gold ECONOMIC CLOUT The country’s financial heart and the economic powerhouse of sub-Saharan Africa.

Home to the headquarters of more than 70 per cent of South African companies STOCK EXCHANGE The Johannesburg Stock Exchange in Sandton is the largest on the continent and among the 20 biggest bourses in the world POPULATION More than four million people live in and around the city, and 42 per cent are younger than 24 DIVERSITY The 2011 census shows that 76.4 per cent of Joburg’s population are black African, 12.3 per cent are white people, 5.6 per cent are coloured people, and 4.9 per cent are Indian/Asian. Of those 19.2 per cent have some form of higher education, and 2.9 per cent of those aged 20 and older have no form of schooling INLAND PORT Has one of the largest inland ports in the world – the City Deep freight terminal GREEN CITY Joburg has one of the world’s largest urban forests, with around six million trees ELEVATION More than 1 700m above sea level, so water boils at 96 °Celsius September 2016 – January 2017 61

Joburg Basics LOCAL PRICES Big Mac R28 Cappuccino R20–R25 Cinema ticket R55 Daily newspaper R4–R15 Litre of petrol R11.50 Loaf of bread R8–R11 Local beer (in a bar) R23–R26

NEED TO KNOW DIALLING CODES The South African country code is 0027 (or +27). Numbers starting 086 can only be dialled from within South Africa. For directory enquiries dial 1023.

DISABLED TRAVEL By law all public buildings must be accessible to the disabled, and many hotels, restaurants, museums and national parks are wheelchair-friendly.

See www.southafrica.info/travel/advice/disabled.htm.

ELECTRICITY Electricity is supplied at 220 volts and 50 hertz throughout South Africa.

LANGUAGE South Africa has 11 official languages, although English is the lingua franca of city life.

POLITICS South Africa has a multiparty political system.

The current ruling party is the African National Congress (ANC).

RELIGION There is a great deal of religious tolerance and diversity in South Africa and Joburg has places of worship and spiritual sites serving all major religions (see our website for a directory).

SMOKING Smoking is prohibited in enclosed and partially enclosed public places, although generally speaking you can smoke at most open-air terraces and indoors in bars that have been assigned as a specially designated smoking area. Children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and purchasing cigarettes and you cannot smoke in a car in the presence of children under 12.

TIME ZONE South Africa is UTC/GMT +2 hours, and the entire country is in the same time zone. Some applications pick this up as ‘Harare time’. There is no daylight saving time.

TOURISM INFORMATION Useful contacts include Joburg Tourism (www.joburgtourism.com) and Gauteng Tourism (www.gauteng.net).

VAT A tax of 14% is levied on all consumer goods except some basic foodstuffs. Non-resident foreign passport holders can claim a Vat refund at the tax refunds office at O.R. Tambo International Airport (see www.taxrefunds. co.za for details) WATER The tap water throughout the city, provided by Johannesburg Water, is among the cleanest, safest and healthiest in the world. It also tastes good.

62 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

CLIMATE Joburg has sunny days and, less frequently, not-so-sunny days. The seasons mostly blend into each other, with summer from November to March and milder temperatures from April to May. Winter starts in June and lasts until August. Spring (September and October) is brief, and you’ll know it by the distinctive purple haze that the blooming jacaranda trees cast across the city’s northern suburbs.

Summer temperatures average 25 °C (77 °F), with winter days dropping to a low of around 15 °C (59 °F). Winter nights can dip to 4 °C (39 °F). Summer is when it rains and Joburg has its trademark afternoon thundershowers, with spectacular lightning displays and the occasional rainbow to match.

CELLPHONES AND SIM CARDS There are four cell phone networks: Vodacom, MTN, Cell C and Telkom Mobile. By law all local SIM cards must first be registered before they can be activated. You will need your passport and a proof of address (a hotel booking will usually suffice) to do this. All networks offer pay-as-you-go options for airtime and data and you can buy extra airtime at most malls, supermarkets and petrol stations.

VODACOM RENTAPHONE Rent SIM cards, phones, GPS devices, routers, USB modems and satellite phones. Advanced bookings can be made via e-mail.QInternational Arrivals Hall, O.R. Tambo International Airport, reservations@cellucity.co.za, tel. +27 11 394 8834. Open 06:00–22:00.

TRAVEL TIPS Safety in any major city is about common sense, information and awareness, and Joburg is no exception. Be aware of your surroundings, keep your valuables close by and try and look like you know where you are going. If you are driving keep any valuables safely locked away in the boot. Also be aware of ATM card cloning scams. Don’t accept help from strangers at ATMs and try to use machines which are located inside banks. If taking a tour of the city, use registered and accredited tour guides (see Sightseeing for suggestions).

EMERGENCY NUMBERS When in uniform, officers of the Johannesburg Metro Police Department (JPMD), Gauteng Traffic Department and SA Police Service (SAPS) wear service and rank insignia as well as a name badge. If approached you have the right to request to see the officer’s identity card. From a cellphone dial 112 (toll-free) to be connected to a national 24-hour emergency call centre who will connect you to the service closest to you. You can also call 10111 for emergencies requiring immediate police assistance or 10177 for emergency fire and ambulance services (toll-free call from a landline, cellphones charged at normal rates). For private emergency medical services dial 082 911 for Netcare 911’s 24-hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg Basics MEDICAL CARE

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

EMERGENCY DOCTOR AND DENTISTQ7 Long Ave, Glenhazel, tel. +27 11 440 5325 or +27 82 443 5366, www.emergencydoctoranddentist.co.za.

MAYS CHEMISTQ11 Main Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8014. Open 08:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–14:00, 17:00–21:00.

SWIFT CARE CLINIC Walk-in private clinic for minor injuries and illnesses.QNetcare Rosebank Hospital, Basement Level, 14 Sturdee Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 328 0511, www.swiftcareclinic.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00. Sat, Sun public holidays 09:00–16:00.

NETCARE MILPARK HOSPITAL Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit.Q9 Guild Rd, Parktown West, tel. +27 11 480 5600, www.netcare.co.za. Open 24/7.

NETCARE SUNNINGHILL HOSPITAL Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit.QCnr Witkoppen and Nanyuki Rds, Sunninghill, tel. +27 11 806 1500.

No matter how solemn their intention, most people regard public holidays as shopping-extravaganza days and most big malls are open. Whenever a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday.

January 1 March 21 March 25 March 28 April 27 May 1 June 16 August 9 September 24 December 16 December 25 December 26

TIPPING

New Year’s Day Human Rights Day Good Friday Family Day Freedom Day Workers’ Day Youth Day National Women’s Day Heritage Day Day of Reconciliation Christmas Day Day of Goodwill

POSTAGE

If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, All text added in InDesign security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants, 10% of the bill is the expected minimum tip, and expect to dole out between R5 and R10 to petrol attendants.

Branches of the South African Post Office can be found in most shopping malls, as can their commercial rival Postnet (tel. 0860 767 8638, www.postnet.co.za). For sending packages and letters in a hurry or for courier services, Postnet is your best bet. Note there is a Post Office branch in O.R. Tambo International Airport (Terminal A1, International Arrivals. Open 07:00–21:00, Sat and Sun 07:00–20:00).

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JOBURG NEIGHBOURHOODS September 2016 – January 2017 63 2014/04/22 12:08:21 PM

CITY CENTRE MAP

RENAMED STREETS In March 2015 a number of city streets were renamed. Street signage is still being updated. These streets are: Bree St = Lilian Ngoyi St, Jeppe St = Rahima Moosa St, Noord St = Sophie de Bruyn St, President St = Helen Joseph St, Sauer St = Pixley ka Isaka Seme St.

1 FOX PRECINCT

SANDTON MAP

PA RK

T H E PA R K

EVENT VENUE

Waterfall Park is situated in the heart of Waterfall City adjacent to the Mall of Africa.

Building on Johannesburg’s positioning as one of the largest man-made urban forests in the world and inspired by New York’s Br yant Park, Waterfall Park has three amphitheatres, a staging area, exhibition, market space and recreational spaces.

AFRICA’S COLLECTIVE E V E N T S

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C O M M U N I T Y

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O U T D O O R

www.theparkwaterfall.co.za | Lone Creek Crescent & Magwa Crescent, Waterfall City