A young American woman's three month bicycle tour through Europe in the 1950s

My Three Month Bicycle Tour Through Europe in the 1950s

by Elizabeth Rostermundt

Growing up in Virginia in the late 1940s and 50s did not prepare me for the experiences during a three month bicycle tour of Europe a few years later. Most of the countries we rode our bikes in were still recovering from World War II. One of the first surprises came when a friend of my parents gave me a "Bon Voyage" gift, two boxes of soap. We would be staying in hostels and small country hotels.

When our ship sailed from Canada, we didn't know there weren't an adequate number of life boats required by New York. Upon arrival we were taken to London by bus - the adventure began. A cruise down the Thames, Buckingham Palace, where the 3 "belles" couldn't make the guards blink and cars on the wrong side of the street. It was totally unexpected to find areas bombed "over 10 years ago" during the Blitz had not been restored. Still just piles of brick and concrete.

Before boarding the bus for Stratford, we had to pack our "biking" luggage - a small bag for the handle bars and a soft bag to be strapped on the back of the bike. Farewell suitcase - we'll see you in Paris in three months.

After receiving our bikes - where are the balloon tires and foot brakes? After viewing Shakespeare's theatre and other highlights of Stratford - our group headed for Bath.

Several hours later, our tour leader, Brunetta, found three belles lying on the side of the

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road totally exhausted. Only 1 1/2 hours more to go - we made it to our hotel - thank goodness for the soap.

We headed south thru Salisbury and visited the cathedral which was a perfect example of Gothic architecture in England. Then on to Stonehenge to view the rock formation before heading to Winchester for a much needed night of sleep. Who would have thought that we would have faded so quickly.

Then on to Southhampton. After dinner, we checked thru customs and boarded the ship for St. Malo. Upon arrival and going thru customs and immigration again we headed for the hotel. While our dirty clothes soaked, we headed for the beach. After which we “motorized” to Mount St Michele where we spent several hours in a state of awe.

Upon arriving in Dinard, we bought our luncheon food and headed south to picnic. Then back to the bikes and about 10 km in a downpour, we were drenched. As we cycled the next day, the rain strted again. We waved to fellow travelers who had taken the train and were dry. We continued to Avignon, Marseilles and Nice. We were quite amazed at the reaction to American bikers. We were expected to be on a “tour bus” rather than on the amazing bike trails. As we biked and picnicked, we met wonderful people who were “fascinated” by America. It really wasn’t that long after the war when many had been exposed to our military.

Then Monte Carlo where there was no Princess Grace. Due to our attire, we didn’t go into the casinos. We are about to enter a bus due to the topography – not safe for cycling.

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On to Italy. After going thru customs, we headed to San Gimignano – terrifying ride – our driver would blow his horn while he sped around corners.

Rome – there are no adequate descriptions. The Vatican – imagining the crowds when the Pope appears in the balcony – the Coliseum, the Trevi Fountain where all threw coins hoping someday to return. As we strolled I called out “ouch” – I had just been pinched – when questioned by my friends, I said “I know a pinch when I feel one” also, as I turned and looked a young man was bent over in laughter. Actually I was complimented. It was quite amazing just to walk down the street where beautiful statues were standing – so many places filled with astounding art – how sorry I was not to have majored in art.

Our Italian adventure took us to Capri. After touring, we put on our “one piece” bathing suits. We all resembled little old ladies. There was finger pointing, a giggle or two – we smiled.

On to Venice, taking a gondola under the bridge of sighs. Everyone was so gracious as we asked questions and showed interest in their lives. After another day of touring, we boarded a bus and headed north.

After going through customs and having our passports stamped, we then headed to the Simplon Pass, where we entered Switzerland. We then started to climb the Alps, astounding beauty. We exchanged money and boarded a train for Zermatt. Just before reaching the town, we had our first view of the Matterhorn – astounding. We then boarded a cog railroad to Riffelberg and our charming hotel. While walking after dinner, Zermatt was like a movie set below us. The next morning we climbed to the top of the Gornergrat.

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The next day, we headed south to board the ship to cross the Channel.

Biking through Germany was an eye opener. While staying in a student hostel, we met young men who had been part of Hitler's Youth Army. What a shock - they were just like us - open to conversation (they had limited English) and curious about our lives. They were also surprised we were on bikes not riding in luxury buses - so were we.

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