PROJECT W077-13
PROJECT W077-13
NOEV I L 14 15 5 22 9 12
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N O E V I L
PROJECT NO EVIL: the ultimate pair of jeans 14 15 5 22 9 12
‘No Evil’ is a limited edition jean concept from British brand Natural Selection Denim. Founded in 2009, Natural Selection Denim has been a pioneer of quality fit and construction through uncompromising fabrications, finishing techniques and understated detailing. Made from unique selvedge denim, ‘No Evil’ is a must have piece for denim lovers and collectors. In 2007 GOTS’s founder John Park bought 1000m of organic 14oz selvedge from denim mecca White Oak plant, part of Cone Mills in North Carolina. Shortly after purchasing the fabric the mill terminated organic cotton production leaving John with some of the most precious and iconic denim available which until now has remained uncut. ‘No Evil’ sees Natural Selection take this denim to create a limited run of 360 pairs of jeans to be released over the course of the year through 12 carefully selected stores worldwide and Natural Selection’s own e-commerce site. Designed with the utmost attention to detail, craftsmanship and construction special attention has been given to the fit and cut to create the pinnacle of the modern denim jean and a true collectors item. Each jean is comes in a special presentation box containing in a with a letter signed personally by John Park.
July 2013
THE JEAN
FRONT
THE JEAN
BACK
THE JEAN
DETAILS
SPECIFICATION SHEET
STYLE #
W077
Revision Date:
10/09/2007
STYLE NAME COLOR
Indigo- sulfur top
DYE PROCESS
Rope Yarn Dye
SIZING MATERIAL
Blended Starch, Wax
COUNTRY of ORIGIN
USA TEST METHOD
FIBER CONTENT
100% Cotton
FABRIC CONSTRUCTION
3x1 RHT
NA
30.5"
D3774
CUTTABLE WIDTH OVERALL WIDTH WEIGHT (OZ./SQ.YD.)
MINIMUM
D3774 RIGID
14.25 oz
3HW
D3776 D3776
CONSTRUCTION
RIGID
(W x F)
3HW
YARN SPINNING
WARP
ARS
FILL
ARS
72 x 55
D3775 D3775 NA NA
TENSILE STRENGTH LBS
RIGID
D5034
(W x F)
3HW
D5034
TEAR STRENGTH LBS
RIGID
D1424
(W x F)
3HW
D1424
SEAM SLIPPAGE DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
AVERAGE
AATCC20A
165 x 121 10.3 x 9.0
D434 WARP
AATCC135
-2.0
0.0 to -5.0%
FILL
AATCC135
-3.0
0.0 to -5.0%
STIFFNESS
D4032
6.5 to 13.5
WARP ELONGATION
D3107
4.0 to 10.0
SKEW %
D3882
5.0 to 11.0
Filling Stretch
D3107
NA
30 min Growth COLORFASTNESS
CROCKING
D3107 LIGHT @ 20 AFU
NA
AATCC16 opt3
4.0
OZONE AT 2 CYCLES
AATCC109
3.5
COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDRY
AATCC61
Shade
3.0
Stain
NA WET
AATCC8
1.0
DRY
AATCC8
3.0
FLEX ABRASION
D3885
FLAMMABILITY
16 CFR 1610
THE FABRIC
1000x1000 DNI
PROJECT W077-13
NOEV I L 14 15 5 22 9 12 By Way of Natural Selection
IN THE BEGINNING - GOTS
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N O E V I L
Natural Selection Denim was launched in 2009 by a UK design collective called Guardians of the Standard (GOTS). Set up in 2007, GOTS’s mission was to uphold a certain standard of integrity and quality in menswear that it felt was being diluted. We wanted 5 to22a high 14 to15create 9 level 12 of construction and ethics, whilst also communicating its values with subtle motifs and hidden branding identifiers.
SECRET SOCIETIES AND NUMBERS As a trained mathematician, I have always found appealing the use of numbers and other symbols of academia. Numbers have always been imbued with special powers. Secret societies such as the Freemasons, Illuminati and Templars used key numbers in their symbolism and identity. The idea was that as well as the obvious beauty and structure, the great monuments, cathedrals and even paintings would use these symbolic numbers; mathematical and deeply embedded, they could only be appreciated by other ‘enlightened’ people. We wanted to mirror this in our philosophy for design and construction. Not immediately obvious, but those who appreciate quality would know what to look for. The secret societies valued ancient Greek as the scholarly language and gave great significance to the numbers 7, 13 and 77, which we adapted for our own.
NATURAL SELECTION DENIM Natural Selection Denim was GOTS’s first brand launched to express our passion for understated craftmanship, built on the concept of evolution; a homage to the fabric itself. The mark of our collective has always been carried on our jeans through the Iridium coloured fly buttons stamped with the Greek letters G.O.T and S. A symbol of enlightenment and academia, Iridium is a clean white metal used to make the best pens and most authentic writing instruments.
CONE MILLS W077 Since my year in Japan during the mid 90’s I have collected jeans, particularly the brands replicating the craftmanship of the American jeans from the 1940’s. The mill at the centre of all denim lore is Cone Mills. Their White Oak plant in North Carolina is the original mill that has made Levi’s selvedge for 120 years. Searching for the most historically significant and ethical denim to craft our jeans, I called Cone Mills in 2007 and asked for a 14oz selvedge in organic cotton. They had only one article called W077, which had the shade colour 13. Due to the order minimums I bought 1,000m and we marvelled at the co-incidence of the article number.
IT WAS NOT TO BE Our noble idea of an ethical, sustainable and organic Natural Selection Denim had to be put on hold. Laundry technology, which is so central to our philosophy of evolution, was not where we felt it should be without compromising what we do. It was a matter of time for technology to advance, which would allow us to reveal the beauty of denim and meet our original ethical ideals.
NO EVIL Named ‘No Evil’, the project was symbolised by the green circle representing the circle of life as well as sustainability. It is meant to be the pinnacle of craftsmanship, fabric and details in the best fit and cut, for the best denim stores in the world. ‘No Evil’ backwards also reads ‘Live On’.
THE LETTER
THE CRAFTSMANSHIP Our ‘No Evil’ project is made the same way jeans were produced at the pinnacle of the craft in the 1940’s. It features all the construction methods and craftsmanship as all our selvedge jeans, outlined in our ‘Origin of Species’ letter.
THE FABRIC Shortly after I purchased the fabric, the organic cotton industry in the USA collapsed for political reasons. The fabric is locked in the history of denim lore, being the only 14oz organic selvedge out of White Oak. Carrying a green selvedge, with a green caste of natural indigo it has a luxurious soft handle that belies its 14oz weight. The oak floors and the old looms combined to create character that shows the fabric’s class.
THE CUT A modern straight leg jean with a hem opening of 15 inches, this has been tried and tested by our clients all over the world, who recognise and appreciate our pattern as one of the best in the denim industry today.
The Details:
• Branded with 13 stitches that sits on the right hand seam, it has 7 points facing forward representing • • • •
our future, and 7 points facing back representing our past. It also mathematically and graphically symbolises the project 77-13. The centre front button is a green circle symbolising the project and matching the colour of the selvedge. First introduced 3 years ago, we have constructed a continuous fly that carries the fabric’s unique green selvedge. Consisting of 4 hidden rivets, 4 front rivets, 4 fly buttons and the centre front button there are 13 metal pieces in the jean. All stitches are in tobacco and tonal indigo threads to give a clean and uncluttered aesthetic. Quality should not be disturbed by distractions.
THE LAUNCH The wait is over. We will work with our clients and customers that have supported us to launch this unique limited edition project. Natural Selection Denim now has the global recognition and distribution to successfully bring these jeans to those who would truly appreciate the work and thought that has gone into them wherever they are. ‘No Evil’ is from our past and also looks to our future. This is the first and also the spearhead of our ethical program. We launch on the cusp of a tipping point as ethically made jeans become more mainstream and the technology allows them to be competitive. Now as we become a full contemporary collection the project maintains our roots in the craftsmanship and lore of vintage denim. ‘No Evil’ is our goodbye and hello.
John Park - Natural Selection Denim
THE LETTER
360 JEANS - 13 STORES - JULY 2013 We simply feel that it is time. In the light of the ideals of GOTS, our passion for numbers and hidden meaning, we ask you to consider the following 13 points. 1. ‘No Evil’ backwards also reads ‘Live On’ 2. The green circle button symbolises the circle of life 3. Limited to 360 jeans to symbolise each degree in a circle 4. The fabric was bought in 2007 5. By co-incidence the Cone Mills designated this fabric W077-13 6. To be launched with 13 carefully selected retailers around the world 7. The launch of ‘Project No Evil’ will be July 2013 - 07.13 8. ‘Project No Evil’ has 13 letters 9. The jeans have 13 metal rivets and buttons 10. The fly buttons carry the Greek letters GOTS and their colour is Iridium 11. Iridium is the 77th element in the periodic table 12. The branding on the jean of 13 stitches, with 7 points forward and 7 points backward, preflects 77-13 13. In numerological terms, where A is 1, B is 2, C is 3 etc, as illustrated in the presentation gbox, the letters NO EVIL add up to 77
THE LETTER
European Sales: Russell Pickett/ russell@concrete-studio.com US Sales: Dana Dramov/ dana@danadramov.com Global Sales: John Park/ jpark@concrete-studio.com PR Enquiries: Dana Dramov/ dana@danadramov.com