John Eric Home Magazine | July-Sept | 2022 | Travel Edition by John Eric

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OH WHAT A JULY | SEPT 2022

WONDERFUL WORLD

Compass is a licensed real estate brokerage that abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. Information is compiled from sources deemed reliable but is not guaranteed. All measurements and square footages are approximate. This is not intended to solicit property already listed. Compass is licensed as Compass Real Estate in DC and as Compass in Virginia and Maryland. 1232 31st Street NW, Washington, DC 20007 | 202.448.9002 | 703.266.7277

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Departments 32 120

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81 128 9 | Letter from the Publisher 16 | John’s Favorites 19 | Trevor’s Favorites

90 | Arts

184 | Stylist

The world through the eyes of a photojournalist Kimberly Allen Mills.

Don’t know what to pack? We have some ideas…

32 | Home Trends

118 | Black Book

196 | Buzz

How to place those cherished travel souvenirs in your home design.

The Paris Tourist Offices – the best in the business.

The news that all of Washington is talking about.

58 | Design Feature

120 | Foodie

197 | Culture

A nod to Ireland with fantastic recipes for soda bread, fish pie, and bread pudding.

Iké Udé’s Nollywood portraits and Preston Singletary’s tribal story of Raven are on exhibit.

Thos. Moser is celebrating its 50th Anniversary. The handmade American furniture company also offers a week-long workshop to build your own furniture.

128 | Mixology

220 | Diplomacy

Our mixologist, Charles Tappan, has created travel-themed cocktails for you to enjoy wherever you might be.

The talk in Washington’s diplomatic circles.

80 | Details

Enjoy the sun and its health benefits!

Staycation at its best – an at-home retreat that rivals any getaway.

64 | Design News

Grab a bag, and let’s go!

81 | Designer Spotlight Iwona Petrov of yZiGN Interiors shares her design inspiration from global travels.

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140 | Health & Wellness 148 | Money & Finance It’s all about inflation and interest rates.

JOHN ERIC + TREVOR MOORE 254 | Real Estate John Eric + Trevor Moore and their colleagues from around the country and the world brings you the best in luxury real estate.

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Special Features 22 44 110 152

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ANTARCTICA 22 | When to go, how to get there, and what to make sure not to miss. 28 | What are your questions on traveling to the South Pole? Perhaps they will be answered in this Q&A. 30 | Travel and Packing tips for your trip to the ice continent. CENTRAL/SOUTH AMERICA 38 | Get out your Keens. It’s time to tour Mesoamerica and worldrenowned Mayan ruins. 44 | A visit to Rio De Janeiro is found on many travel bucket lists. Here is the take on the city from a local. 48 | The Top 5 tango classes in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

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50 | Do you love penguins? Learn all about their colonies in the Straits of Magellan. NORTH AMERICA 70 | All aboard! Riding the rails across Canada. 78 | The Top 5 places to eat Poutine in Montreal, Canada. 84 | Woodstock is a quintessential Vermont town. After reading this, you will not be able to wait to visit. 102 | A day in the life of Nantucket through the eyes of a local. 108 | The Top 5 resorts in the Florida Keys. 110 | Want a perfect desert vacation? Head to Scottsdale and make sure to stop by these top 10 sites.

126 | A 12 Year Old’s Advice on Traveling 134 | Explore the history and beauty of Healdsburg in California’s famous wine country. 142 | The Top 5 sites of Yellowstone. 144 | Who doesn’t want to live in Paradise? Learn more about what it’s like to live on Kaua’i. OCEANA 152 | The Islands of Tahiti are calling you – make sure that you answer! 160 | The Top 5 rooftop bars in Melbourne, Australia. 162 | What’s it like to be an American living Down Under in New Zealand? Find out!

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172 ASIA 168 | Temples, street food, and culture – the treasures of Old Taipei.

AFRICA 200 | Come and explore the wonders of South Africa.

THE CARIBBEAN 242 | The Top 5 places to snorkel in St. Lucia.

172 | The Top 5 beaches of Bali, Indonesia.

212 | The Top 5 art galleries in Zanzibar, Tanzania.

174 | Wandering around Luang Prabang, Laos on a hot day (of course, it is always a hot day in Luang Prabang).

214 | Have you ever wondered what it would be like to be a safari guide in Zimbabwe? Here is a chance to find out from someone who was just that.

244 | A native of San Juan offers his suggestions on where to go on the beautiful island of Puerto Rico.

178 | Traveling to Mumbai and want to see things not in the tourist guide? A native of Mumbai shares where to go in the city.

EUROPE 224 | The adventures of an American woman, her Dutch husband, and their opening of a B&B in the Andalucía region of Spain.

MIDDLE EAST 182 | The Top 5 wonders of Jordan. 186 | Exciting Dubai. Join us as we explore the city. 192 | Istanbul, Turkey – a city and country of cultural riches. Make sure to read our conversation with a Turkish native.

230 | The Top 5 coffeehouses in Vienna, Austria. 232 | A Tuscan winemaker shares his story. 236 | Landing on the moon in Iceland.

246 | Exploring the amazing Turks and Caicos. Amazing.

Contributors CHARLES M. TAPPAN, JR. Before joining Republic National Distributing Company LLC, Charles worked in finance, as a broker on Wall Street and as an equity trader. He decided to make the leap into the Hospitality industry in 2011 while looking for

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the fountain of youth, and since then he has worked as a bartender at some of the best hotels and restaurants in Washington, DC, including Blue Duck Tavern at Park Hyatt and the Jose Andreas Think Food Group. Not only is he a member of the US Bartender’s Guild and DC Craft Guild, but he is highly decorated in the mixology

FOUNDER | PUBLISHER John Eric

community. DAVID BROWN became a pioneer of design in some of DC and Virginia’s most up-

MANAGING EDITOR Angela Casey

and-coming neighborhoods. As an executive with Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton & Valentino, he has been fortunate to travel extensively across the United States and Europe through his work. David’s eclectic style and appreciation for architecture is

SENIOR EDITOR-AT-LARGE Louis Kwasniewski

reflected in his work thanks to his unique cultural perspective gained through his travels. MARC SCHLIEFER has been in the financial planning business since 1978, when he joined Equity Planning Institute, Inc. He became President of Equity Planning Institute, Inc. in 1996. With over 33 years of practicing financial planning, Marc has

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Hillary Broadwater REAL ESTATE ADVERTISING DIRECTOR David Brown

worked mainly on individual financial planning and counsels clients on all aspects of their financial life. SHERRY MOELLER co-founder and principal of MoKi Media, was a previous editor in chief of Capitol File magazine/Niche Media covering politicians, celebrities, fashion, travel, hospitality and lifestyle in Washington, DC and around the country.

EDITORIAL e-mail | angela@johnandtrevor.com ADVERTISING phone | 703.798.0097

She now specializes in public relations for interior design, architecture and hospitality clients, among other luxury brands. HANNAH JENNER is the Founder and Head Coach at Achieving Awesome

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Performance Coaching and host of the “Achieving Awesome” podcast. A former

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professional sailor, Hannah became the first female captain of the Clipper Round

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the World Yacht Race to circumnavigate the globe in 2007-08. After a 15- year career on the ocean sailing some 280,000 nautical miles, Hannah retired in 2017 to set up her coaching practice. Combing her experience in building successful teams along with a life coaching qualification from Erickson College and a nutrition coaching certification from Precision Nutrition, Achieving Awesome coaches women to unlock their true potential from the inside out. Hannah’s mission in life is to help people become the happiest, healthiest and strongest version of themselves so that they may in turn #betheinspiration. Find out more at www. achievingawesome.com. 8

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Welcome “Wanderlust: n. a strong desire for or impulse to wander or travel and explore the world”

The world is ravenous to travel, and we are ravenous to travel the world. I would like to welcome you to the pages of our Mega Summer Travel issue. Inside our issue this month is something for everyone. Whether you plan on traveling in the summer, fall, winter, or spring, there is a destination for you. We are calling all outdoor enthusiasts, urban safari seekers, and actual African safari adventurers. You will read Q&As from locals who share their thoughts on living in places like Rio, Nantucket, Wellington, Tuscany, along with many others. We have the ‘Top 5’s which will point you in the right direction to the best tango classes in Buenos Aires, the best beaches in Bali, where to grab a perfect cup of coffee in Vienna, and so much more. There are also special contributors from North America, Europe, Asia, and South America who have written great pieces for you to peruse. Of course, we also have our regular features – all with a travel theme. “Details” provides the best carry-on bags, “Home Trends” shares how to highlight treasured souvenirs from far off places in your home décor, “Stylist” recommends great pieces to travel with that are light and easy on maintenance, while “Mixology” is dedicated to sips that inspire travel. There is a special feature written from the perspective of a 12-year-old traveler, and in our Arts section, we are re-printing a feature previously run in the magazine of a photojournalist and her experiences traveling the world. So, come aboard! We invite you to explore the world with us…

John Eric Publisher 9

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TRAV

AVEL

ERIN FARR

ANDREA HEALEY

SEAN O’NEILL

BRENT TARTAMELLA

Born and raised in Arizona, Erin Farr lived for 15 years in Los Angeles working as a women’s contemporary apparel designer. She has since relocated to the coast of southern Spain where she and her husband, Will, operate a rural holiday home/ farmstay. She also freelances small clothing design jobs when the opportunity strikes right. On free days, she can be found hiking or beachlounging with her husband and their dog, Oscar, as well as hunting for hidden gems in their new country, cooking localingredient dishes, and crafting something decorative for their guest quarters.

Originally from Quebec, Canada, Andrea is a seasoned traveler who enjoys many different cultures and experiences. Over ten years ago, she unexpectedly found love and made Kauai her home. Maintaining her worldwide friendships and actively fostering new connections has allowed her to partner with other Sotheby’s International Realty advisors from around the globe. Andrea’s passion for real estate, pleasure in connecting with people worldwide, and genuine concern for her clients form the foundation of her fabled customer service. She believes in a growth mindset and continually seeks strategies, solutions, and education to ensure her clients receive every available advantage.

Sean grew up on Providenciales before attending secondary school in Ireland. He holds a B.A. in Economics and History and an M.A. in History of International Relations from University College Dublin, as well as a law degree from College of Law, London. A creative negotiator and expert problem solver, Turks and Caicos-born Sean O’Neill is proud to leverage his mastery of island real estate and background in law to serve a distinguished clientele at The Agency. When he’s not serving his clients in real estate, Sean enjoys spending time with his wife and two young sons and getting in as much beach time as possible. He is an active member of the Turks and Caicos Islands Rugby Football Union (TCIRFU), as well as the TCI CONCACAF Beach Soccer World Cup Qualifiers.

Brent came across Nantucket Sound in 2004 to be the inaugural General Manager of The Westmoor Club, where he was focused on creating a world-class, nationally recognized organization steeped in tradition and luxury. With over 20 years in the high-end private club world including The Country Club Augusta National Masters Tournament, Brent brings his network, market knowledge, tenacity, commitment to community, and five-star service approach to his work at Fisher Real Estate. A former President of the New England Club Managers Association and Board Chair of the Nantucket Lighthouse School, Brent has been involved in numerous local nonprofits throughout his sixteen years on Nantucket.

John Eric Home would like to introduce our readers to the contributors who provide both informative and interesting articles to the magazine. These are the voices that bring to you the most current trends within their individual industries. We would like to thank our contributors for providing their insight to the magazine and its readers. 12

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NICOLE KOBRINSKY

RUTH KENNEDY SUDDUTH

KELLI ALEXANDER

BOB PENNYPACKER

Born in Michigan and raised in Colorado, Nicole got an early education in the world of real estate, purchasing her first home when she was just 18 while studying Business Administration at Colorado Christian University. She combined years of experience working in the marketing department of the largest US insurer with her knowledge gained remodeling and managing rental properties and formally began her career as an Agent in 2012. In early 2021, she earned a new title, Associate Broker. When she isn’t with clients, she enjoys spending time with her husband and two young daughters, and especially loves their Friday tradition of walking to sushi and ice cream. You can also find her tasting fine tequila with friends, wandering art galleries, practicing Pilates, playing golf or tennis, or brushing up on the latest architecture and design trends.

A graduate of Yale University, and with an MBA from Harvard Business School, where she was selected as a Baker Scholar, Ruth competed at an elite level in rowing. Prior to joining LandVest in 1998, she co-headed global fixed income at Wellington Management Company. She earned U.S. Dressage Federation Bronze and Silver medals and competed in eventing. She was raised with a land ethos – her father was director of the National Park Service and her mother from the Conservation Fund. She has been active in conserving her own farm and land in the surrounding communities. Ruth’s board service in addition to LandVest includes privately-held companies as well as non-profits, including: Groton School, the WennerGren Foundation, Bennington College, Sudbury Valley Trustees, Green Mountain Horse Association, New England Forestry Foundation, and the Zoning Board of Appeals and Planning Board of Stow, MA.

Kelli’s passion for travel began at age 4 when her mom took her on her first flight to visit her dad in the Navy. She remembers everything. Wearing a plaid dress and red leather shoes. Sitting in the window seat. It was nighttime. With her nose pressed against the window; she was fascinated by the cobalt blue lights along the runway. Once that plane took off, she hasn’t landed since. Alexander has traveled extensively. Beginning her career in television broadcasting and communications, she realized her heart was in firmly touching the world and sharing it with all who are ready and open. She established PlanetKelli, a high-end travel and destination planning company. With her myriad connections around the world, in the most sought-after locations, she provides clients a VIP treatment as she knows not just the destinations but how to match travelers with their perfect choices and options.

Bob’s passions in life include Architecture, Real Estate, and, of course, travel for they are forever intertwined. After getting his architectural degree from Columbia University, he was attracted to the megaprojects across the globe, whether it be Airports in the Middle East, new towns in Asia, or theme parks for both Disney and Universal. The satisfaction came not just from participating in the design, but from the opportunity to coordinate all the complex systems and solve the problems to make a functioning project. The transition to real estate was a natural evolution for Bob, as one day will be about discovering the overlooked opportunities of a property, another will be about highlighting a property’s unique features in preparation for the marketplace. As a Realtor at Healdsburg Sotheby’s International Realty, Bob considers himself the luckiest architect in the world. Architect or realtor--it has been a lifetime of crafting the relationships between people and buildings.

MIKE BINGHAM

THOMAS DONNELLY

YI-SHENG HSU

Mike Bingham has worked for the American, British, Falkland Islands, Chilean, and Argentine governments on a variety of wildlife projects. Prior to 1993, he worked for the United States Government in Hawai’i helping to establish a research and monitoring program for marine turtles. In 1993 Bingham moved to the Falkland Islands to take up a government funded post of Conservation Officer. Bingham now has long-term penguin monitoring programs running at multiple sites in Chile, Argentina and the Falkland Islands, in cooperation with the Chilean and Argentine governments.

Thomas Donnelly hails from the Washington, DC area where he attends middle school, excelling in English, math and science. In his free time he enjoys all sports, particularly baseball and watching his favorite team, the Washington Nationals. He looks forward to more travel and trips to fun and different places. He loves playing with his black lab Reece, who was rescued right before the pandemic at an adoption event at the DC Auto Show.

Yi-Sheng Hsu is a freelance translator, self-proclaimed creative writer, and graduate student. He is currently based in Taipei City, Taiwan, hosting the blog Doyouwantsometea.

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GENUINE PENGUIN ADOPTION When you adopt your very own wild penguin from our organization, you are not sharing with anybody else. You choose the name of your penguin and are sent photos and news about the penguin which you alone adopt. You will follow your penguin throughout the year as it migrates, lays eggs and rears chicks and receive photos of your penguin and its chicks. You will even get a map showing where your penguin lives in case you want to come and visit! You will also know that the fee you pay is used for the research and protection that helps the penguins. Our work is well known and has been praised by the British Government (Darwin Initiative). It has also been featured on BBC TV and Animal Planet.

ORGANIZATION FOR THE CONSERVATION OF PENGUINS www.seabirds.org | www.penguins.cl | www.falklands.net

JOHN’S FAVORITES MY PERSONAL BEST

1. Park Hyatt Milan – I love this Park Hyatt. The next time you are in Milan, make sure to stay at this property. You won’t be disappointed. Plus, it’s centrally located near the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and the historic Duomo. 2. Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace, Budapest – This is one of my favorite hotels in the world. I highly recommend a stay. If not a stay, then cocktails and dinner if nothing else. Be sure to take in the view of the Széchenyi Chain Bridge at night, directly in front of the hotel. 3. The Halkin, London – What else can be said aside from its location in Belgravia? It is the pinnacle of five-star luxury. I will stay nowhere else when in the city. 4. Hotel Georgia, Vancouver – As part of the Rosewood Group and with a unique history of its own, this is the perfect place to stay if you are visiting Vancouver.

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C E L E B R AT I N G 5 0 Y E A R S

7735 old georgetown road, suite 700 bethesda, md 20814 240.333.2000

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WELCOME TO YOUR NEW HOME

TREVOR’S FAVORITES MY PERSONAL BEST

1. Playa Mujeres, Mexico – If you like sun and sand, this is the place to go. My wife and I had an amazing time here and would recommend a stay to anyone who wants beautiful views and relaxation. 2. HOKA Speedgoat 4 Men’s Shoes – I love these terrain shoes. They are breathable yet have rugged mesh and are unbelievably comfortable. 3. Prescott National Forest, Prescott Arizona – Make sure to visit the Crown King area if you visit the Prescott National Forest. It’s the perfect place to hike trails and be up close to nature.

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ANTARTICA

VOYAGE VOYAG E OF A LIFETIME

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A wise person once said, “You don’t have to go to Antarctica to know that there are penguins there.” While the adage may be true, what is even more true is that a journey to Antarctica is the journey of a lifetime. It can be hard to truly understand a place like Antarctica. It is the coldest, windiest, and driest place on earth. It is a desert with no trees, no bushes, and no long-term residents. More meteorites are found in Antarctica than any other place in the world. It is because of these reasons that you need to go. The southernmost continent is truly the place to unplug. There is no mobile phone service. There are no hustling and bustling crowds. No souvenir shops, no 5-star restaurants or street food stalls. No ATMs (there is no official currency), no docking stations, or skyscrapers or airports or bus or train stations. It is stillness under the dome of a bright blue sky surrounded by a sea of pure, white ice. The only distractions here are the sight of penguins marching in formation along snowy paths, humpback whales surfacing to breathe, and myriad birds flying above. Sounds like bliss, doesn’t it? WHEN TO GO TO The Antarctic travel season lasts from November through March, which is the Antarctic summer. During this timeframe, temperatures can range from around 20 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Although it is a short window of travel time overall, it narrows even further depending on your interests. The best time for penguin spotting is late December or early January. Wait too long and previously pristine penguin colonies get dirty and smelly. But for peak whale watching season, the magic time is February or March. Antarctica does have many activities that can be enjoyed throughout the travel season. It doesn’t matter which side of the calendar you choose – the penguin spotting or the whale watching – you can snowshoe, kayak, ski, camp, snorkel, dive, and visit historic sites from earlier expeditions.

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HOW TO GET THERE Of course, Antarctica is a somewhat restricted territory, so you can’t just show up to the continent. It is necessary to book passage through either a cruise ship company or an airline. While traditionally, sailing was the only way to reach Antarctica (and remains the most common route) it is now possible to travel by air to the icy region. Flying by charter plane from Punta Arenas, Chile, you will reach the Antarctic Peninsula in just two hours, instead of two days at sea. This option is perfect for time sensitive or anxious travelers. Note: there are limited departures each season so you will need to book far in advance. However, nearly 98% of visitors approach Antarctica via the tip of South America. Most originate their tours through Ushuaia, Argentina. It is the quickest and most accessible route. It also has the widest choice of cruise ship embarkations. Whichever way chosen – air or sea – one thing is for sure: long gone are the days of the rickety whalers that took the first explorers to the unexplored continent. When choosing a cruise line, make sure to do your homework. Although there are many similarities, different cruise ships do offer different amenities and travel itineraries which can last from nine days to one month. Make sure to spend the time researching the line before booking. Take into consideration your “musts” versus your “wants” and compare itineraries. Also, Antarctica is a destination where smaller vessels yield big advantages. Big cruise ships can only stop at a few sites whereas the smaller boats are nimbler and access more locations. When researching your perfect itinerary, you will notice that Ross Sea trips are much longer in length. They usually last around 30 days. Many opt for the Weddell Sea excursions as they take about 11 days from start to finish and do cover many Antarctic attractions, including the emperor penguins. The most recommended Weddell cruises are those that take in the west slopes of the Antarctic Sound. Once you have chosen your perfect itinerary and set sail, onboard expect to mingle with scientists, naturalists, historians, and underwater specialists. Part of the experience are the organic conversations that will evolve around you. Make sure to take the time to enjoy them.

EX P L O R E

WHAT TO DO For such a large, desolate and icy place, oddly enough there are many activities to enjoy in Antarctica. Here are a few of the top attractions:

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View magnificent penguin colonies… Many people make the trek to Antarctica to penguin peep, to witness the birds in their native habitat. Penguins and penguin colonies are plentiful around Antarctica, but one of the best sites to enjoy them is the emperor penguin colony at Snow Hill Island. Kayak around sea ice… Yes, you read that correctly. Although freezing waters may intimidate the faint of heart, it is worth conquering the fear and jumping in a kayak. You will leave the noise of the motorized boats and have the rare opportunity to enjoy your surroundings in the absolute purist way. There are many locations in which to indulge a private kayak tour. Wiencke Island is a fantastic launching place, as is Pléneau Island and Petermann Island, which are prized locations as they both offer up the opportunity to see Adélie penguins, blue-eyed shags, humpback whales, minkes, and leopard seals. Board a whale-watching cruise. ... Like the penguins, whales are one of the attractions that draw travelers to Antarctica. Also like their tuxedo-ed friends, whales can be seen in many areas around the island. The best sites to witness pods of them are Cuverville Island, Danco Island, Petermann Island, and Pléneau Island. Sharpen your ornithology skills… Birds are a big deal in Antarctica. They are plentiful and diverse. Antarctica is home to multiple species of albatross, gull, tern, skua, petrel, shearwater, cormorant, and sheathbill. Looking up into the sky, you will see them in numbers. Careful on the ground though – some of the albatross do wander around. Mail a letter from the planet’s southernmost post office… Sure, it may sound cheesy, but everyone does it. The former research base of Port Lockroy, whose post office is now known as the Penguin Post Office, is the most southerly mailing depot on the planet. Send a missive back home to your friends – and to yourself. It is one of the most unique postmarks that there is on Earth.

GOODBYE ANTARCTICA When it’s time to say goodbye, one can’t help but feel sentimental. Most tourists to the continent do not return a second time. The magic is felt only once. Leaving it behind is also an experience. But don’t be sad, the postmarked letter that you sent home to yourself will arrive – though you might be home for a bit before it reaches your mailbox.

SNAPSHOT ANTA R C T IC A

A conversation with Jeff Miller who traveled to Antarctica in 2005. Jeff has traveled to 42 countries, spanning all seven continents and shares his view, sometimes humorous, with us on the ice continent.

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JEH: What was your first impression of Antarctica upon reaching it? JM: Antarctica is the world’s most pristine environment. If you are looking for beachfront property - many lots are still available. JEH: What was the most special aspect of the continent for you? JM: The most special aspect of Antarctica was its scale and isolation. Nature is untouched by man. Every view is grand and expansive. Our presence seemed insignificant. JEH: What most surprised you? JM: I was most surprised by our access to wildlife. There is an astounding variety and abundance of animals on the continent. Each day, we took excursions ashore along the coast. We saw penguins, terns, skuas, seals, walruses, whales, krill, and other marine life. On shore, there were animal remains scattered everywhere - including whale vertebrae and ribs, seal skulls, penguin bones, birds and a variety of fish remains. The climate is arid and cold, so skeletons endure for decades. Everything is frozen in time. JEH: What least surprised you? JM: The selection of the “Shackleton” series as onboard entertainment. JEH: Can you speak a little on your journey to Antarctica -what was it like to travel there? JM: The journey to Antarctica took four days - three flights (over two days), plus a two-day sail across the Drake Passage from South America to Antarctica. That time and distance only underscored the remoteness of the continent. As such, we all understood that the trip was a once-ina-lifetime experience. I would describe our eight days in Antarctica as a constant state of excitement/wonderment/ astonishment.

JEH: Can you speak a little of activities that you engaged in while there? The wildlife? JM: We were on a small Russian icebreaker (the Akademik Ioffe) which hosted only 92 guests, so we were able to access many areas unavailable to cruise ships. Every day there were excursions ranging from sea kayaking, hiking, sledding, bird walks, whale watching in zodiacs and (yes) swimming. At night, we enjoyed nature lectures by our onboard guides, tall tales and libations in the ship’s bar, stargazing, and mingling with the ship’s crew on the bridge. JEH: What did you not like about Antarctica? JM: Jumping into the ship’s “hot tub” at night. It was filled by pumping ice-cold ocean water directly into the reservoir, which was not heated. Not “hot.” Just “tub.” JEH: Can you share two independent thoughts -- not related to the above questions -- with our readers? One that they would never expect and the other that they may. JM: Unexpected - Antarctica is blue, not white. The water, the sky and the compressed ice are all rich shades of blue. Even the snow turns blue at sunset before it eventually fades into gray, then black. Expected - It is as close as you will ever get to visiting another planet. JEH: Is there anything else that you would like to include – an anecdote or story that our readers may find interesting? JM: Had a chance to swim in Antarctica during one of our excursions ashore. I can’t call it “The Polar Bear Club”, as polar bears live 10,000 miles + away. I would describe the sensation of diving into the icy ocean as having a thousand burning needles piercing your skin at the same time. Please take note: that high-pitched screaming noise ringing in your ears will be you!

JEH: What would you recommend to our readers not to miss seeing or doing if they travel to Antarctica? JM: Don’t miss the opportunity to get up close to nature. Take advantage of kayaking, hiking, or zodiac outings in coastal harbors. Animals in Antarctica are not hunted, so they are not startled by the presence of humans. As such, visitors can get very close to nature without creating a disturbance. We had the opportunity to camp ashore overnight. Went to sleep to the thunderous sounds of glaciers calving off into the ocean. Woke up the next morning to the squawking of penguins (and a seal) amongst our campsite.

ANTARCTICA TRAVEL TIPS • If you will be in Argentina for a few days before departure, pack a few lighter layers. The country is warm at the time of year when most Antarctic cruises take place, with temperatures ranging from 70 to 80 degrees. Antarctica is cold. • Pack your winter-gear essentials and seasickness medications in your carry-on. If your baggage doesn’t arrive from your original destination, the boat will take off without it. • Be proactive about seasickness. Drake’s Passage can get hairy. If you are departing from Ushuaia, your captain should update you prior to leaving on expected sailing conditions. Make sure to take the seasickness medication when you set foot on ship—or ideally a few hours before. Once seasickness hits, it’s tough to overcome. • Wear sunscreen. Always. No matter the weather. Reapply as often as you can. And put it everywhere—especially on your nose. The sun reflects off the snow and you risk burning. • Be prepared for no souvenirs. While everyone loves having a memento of their travels, you will leave Antarctica itself without one. There are no tourist shops. And taking anything is banned. This includes rocks, feathers, bones, eggs, and any kind of biological material including traces of soil. Taking anything man-made is also completely banned, as some might actually be research equipment. • Don’t disturb historic sites or current sites. There are a number of ‘historic’ sites in Antarctica – old bases and now-abandoned huts that were once used by explorers and scientists. Much like any kind of monument, you’re not meant to go near these sites or take anything from them. In emergencies, such as a blizzard, they can be used. Current sites are also not meant to be disturbed. Those stationed there are conducting sensitive research, and your presence might accidentally disrupt their work. • Don’t litter. While this goes without saying, most rules on the continent are meant to keep the environment as pristine as possible. Water pollution is also a big deal and even walking through water or skipping stones is against the rules. • Penguins can find their own way home. Most of the animal-watching rules are straightforward: keep your very specified distance, be quiet, and don’t feed them. In other words, observe but don’t interact. • Don’t expect to get rescued. Stick close to people. With the unpredictable weather conditions, rescues are basically impossible. In a group of people, most tour operations will ensure that you’re kept safe and that you’re briefed on how you can keep yourself safe.

ANTARCTICA PACKING LIST Knee-high waterproof boots Waterproof pants A warm parka Waterproof gloves Lots of layers Extra socks

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A tight-fitting beanie A warm scarf A camera and lenses Binoculars Sunscreen Seasickness medication

HOME TRENDS WHERE STYLE & ELEGANCE MEET

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Treasures OF TRAVEL COLLECTED

by David Brown

Souvenirs always seem like a good idea when you are on a vacation – but incorporating these treasures into your home aesthetic can sometimes prove to be a challenge. Take heart, though, there are ways to enjoy those finds in fun and tasteful ways, well after you find yourself back on home soil. Be it kitsch finds, cultural artefacts or maps of where you have travelled, there are a number of savvy solutions to keeping your treasures on display and your holiday memories close at hand. Little or big mementos of your travels can add interest to your home – not to mention become a talking point when entertaining guests. They also help us to remember the distances we have journeyed in our lives and the different experiences we’ve had. The key to enacting tasteful souvenir display ideas is to buy tasteful souvenirs. While you’re traveling, try to look for a jewelry store or a shop that has products with screen printed items. A jewelry store that has products relevant to local culture or aesthetics is a great way to find a piece that you may be able to wear routinely, and when you’re not wearing it, you can easily store it away or even hang it as decor. A store that offers screen printed items could have products such as clothing, scarves, or other kinds of textiles that you can easily display in a few different ways. You can create a blanket or pillow out of the various designs, or you can use the material as the backdrop in a picture frame or shadow box. You can even take shirts from your various travels and create a patchwork quilt. A quilt like this has both a practical use as well as holding sentimental value. If you aren’t up to creating your own, purchasing a beautiful throw blanket is also the perfect item to bring back from your travels and while keeping you warm on the plane. They can add a pop of color to any couch or bed, and they will definitely be used. When shopping for throws abroad, avoid shopping malls and visit locally-owned markets where the textiles are made by the people who are selling them to you.

If you are traveling overseas, there is such an exquisite array of textiles to be tempted by. Selecting a beautiful fabric allows you many options either to create pillows, wall-hangings, throws or even matted art work. If you have taken the time to bring it home, you may as well go the extra mile and get it professionally framed to make sure it lasts the test of time. Another type of item to look for is homeware items like bowls, plates, and trays. For items like this, it’s a good idea before your trip to think about what you could use or have room for in your home. For example, if you know you have more than enough plates, but you could use a serving bowl, you can look for one while abroad. You should also look for items that are both display pieces and usable, such as paperweights or bookends. These things can easily be added to a desk or bookshelf without creating unnecessary clutter. I always seem to pick up a piece of art from each new city we visit and add it to our evolving art collection. Mix it up and choose different pieces, mediums, and styles from the locations you travel to or try to keep things more similar and choose the same types of art (all black-and-white photography or all line drawings). Display your art on a beautiful gallery wall in your home to help remember all the amazing trips you’ve taken through the years. Pictures are frozen memories. Apart from uploading your travel photos on social media, consider printing, framing, and displaying them at home. You can present it in any way that you like, but we find these greyscale photos in identical frames fascinating. Often, we return from a trip with one or two extra paper bills from the visited country. These can be colorful, small art pieces to be framed. Layout those which complement each other. If both sides of a bill are interesting, stager them, displaying each surface. Maps are also great items to collect while traveling because you can easily carry them, and they are very affordable. Create a gallery wall in your home by framing the maps you’ve collected. If gallery walls aren’t your thing, give your old coffee table books an update and use your maps as book covers. You can even decoupage the maps and create your own coasters or paperweights. 34

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For any travel addicts who also like to mix up their daily scents, perfumes are a special item to collect from each country you visit. Not all perfumes formulated in other countries are exported to the United States. Many familyowned perfumeries make limited batches only sold locally. Just as food and traditions vary by region, so do fragrances. The Middle East leans towards aromatic blends with oud. South Pacific islands distill florals for a light scent. Olfactory souvenirs are equally as evocative as visual. Fragrance takes us back to strolling an Italian piazza or sun-bathing on Bermuda’s beaches. The bottles are beautiful, easy to pack, and a unique way how to decorate your home with travel souvenirs. Trying to purchase items that fit within the color palette of your home is another great souvenir display ideas. Some cities or countries are known for a unique color palette, which may make this more difficult, but many others are known for a specific style that can exist regardless of the color of an item. In this case, it’s a good idea to think before your trip about what exactly you’ll need. A great way to keep clutter away but still have a display of your travel mementos is to put them in frames or shadow

boxes. You can find unique shadow boxes at your local craft or department store for a very low price. These attractive shadow boxes do triple-duty as a unique piece of wall art, an organized storage, and an excellent conversation starter. If you line them along your staircase, both you and your visitors will always get the chance to see them. A collection of souvenirs dispersed among family photos and house plants is a fun way to create a vignette. Coordinate color and textures. Use only a handful of pieces so it doesn’t look cluttered. Another fun nook design is to compile a stack of books amassed from your travels. Coffee table tomes, local author novels, a museum anthology, an atlas. Start with the largest book at the bottom and finish with the smallest for good symmetry. When you’re buying a souvenir, you don’t necessarily have to use it for its intended purpose. Upcycling and repurposing items are a significant trend right now and there are countless tutorials online on how to reuse items to give them a new life. And remember, you don’t need a grand collection of souvenirs for display. Sometimes, less is more.

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SOUTH AMERICA

TOURING

mexico THROUGH MAYAN EYES

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Before the Spanish conquistadors arrived in Mexico, the Maya built one of the greatest civilizations of the Western Hemisphere in the pre-Columbian era. They occupied a large territory in southern Mexico where they developed large cities, practiced slash and burn agriculture used advanced techniques in irrigation and terracing, created a high form of hieroglyphic writing, and implemented sophisticated calendrical and astronomical systems. The ancient Maya quarried immense quantities of building stone (usually limestone) that they used to create some of the most immense and intricately carved temples, pyramids, palaces, and courts the world has ever known. Remnants and ruins of these edifices remain today. If you are planning a trip to Mexico, consider visiting one (or two, or three) of these amazing glimpses into the past. Some you can climb, others you can bike through, and behind one of them, you can swim in the ocean. Standing in front of these stone structures is both inspiring and humbling.

CHICHEN ITZA Chichen Itza is probably Mexico’s most famous set of ruins. Its image has been reprinted countless times. Located in the Yucatan Peninsula, this ancient town is a result of a large and diverse population, which is reflected in the varying architectural styles and techniques found throughout the site. It’s known as one of the best examples of Mayan-Toltec civilization in the area and settled by the Maya people in the early to mid-400s. A half-century later, the town was conquered by the Toltecs and additional buildings were erected. The city is believed to have fallen somewhere around 1440 A.D., and was then left abandoned in the jungle for 500 years until modern-day excavations began. Chichen Itza’s ruins give visitors an eye into an ancient life. The most famous building is the Temple of Kukulcan, a towering step-pyramid in the center of the city. At one time, visitors were able to climb up this stunning ruin, though wear and tear eventually led to closed access. Still, Chichen Itza receives over two-and-a-half million tourists each year and is one of Mexico’s most-visited archeological sites. TULUM Tulum’s beautiful beachside ruins have become an increasingly popular attraction as tourism in the town has exploded. These Mayan ruins, located in the Riviera Maya and just a 10-minute drive or 30-minute walk from Tulum town, date back to the 13th century. Built directly on the cliffs and up against the ocean, Tulum back then was an important port city, trading precious stones. The most popular ruins here is the cliffside Castillo, the largest and most impressive structure. The rest of the site is filled with mostly destroyed remnants of buildings (there is ongoing rehabilitation work), and the views, especially at sunrise, are breathtaking.

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COBA At its peak over 1,500 years ago, Coba was one of the largest cities in Mayan history. Covering over 50 miles of dense jungle, it was home to more than 50,000 Mayans and what archeologists now believe to be one of the most important sets of ancient ruins in the Yucatan. Today it is a very impressive set of ruins. It’s also one of the remaining sites that visitors can climb to the top (the main pyramid – Notroch Mul). Once atop, the 180-degree views over the jungle and Coba site itself are breathtaking. After the climb, it is possible to rent a bike, and then cycle through the rest of the site. PALENQUE Palenque is a romantic favorite set deep in the jungle of Chiapas. The city came to its peak between 500 to 700 A.D. and, at one time, had thousands of buildings. Today, over 1,400 buildings remain with only around 10 percent having been explored. The ruins themselves are well-preserved and are one of the best sets that illustrate the Mayan’s classical period. Well-preserved hieroglyphic inscriptions are found within the Temple of the Inscriptions, a funeral tomb for the seventh-century ruler of Palenque, K’inich Janaab’ Pakal. CALAKMUL 20 miles from the Guatemalan border, is the ancient Mayan city of Calakmul. While most of the ruins on this list are easily accessible, Calakmul has a more remote location deep in the jungle of the Yucatan Peninsula. Like Coba, Calakmul is thought to have a large population of about 50,000 people. It’s believed that construction of this huge city started around 550 B.C. Over 6,700 buildings have been discovered here, with several pieces remaining mostly intact. Some of the intricately carved stone slabs still have their original pigmentation. You can climb its steep steps for stunning, unforgettable views over the surrounding jungle-scape. EK BALAM Yet another set of ruins found in the Yucatan Peninsula, Ek Balam, meaning “black jaguar” in Mayan, is a tourist-favorite and thought to possibly be the seat of the Tlalol kingdom. This ancient Mayan city peaked around the late Classical period between 600 to 850 A.D. In addition to housing numerous well-preserved sculptures, Ek Balam is known for the preserved plaster tomb of king Ukit Kan Lek Tok. For sweeping views over the Riviera Maya (and out to Coba on clear days), climb the Acropolis pyramid. Ek Balam is a small city with only 45 buildings, but they are remarkably intact compared to other Classical-period structures like Coba.

SNAPSHOT Br as i l

Rio De Janeiro intrigues. Beautiful and exotic, fast and fun, cosmopolitan, culturally rich, the list goes on and on… We spoke with Juliana Bernardes, a native of Rio De Janeiro, and asked for her impressions of the city.

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JEH: What was it like to grow up in Rio De Janeiro? JB: It was literally paradise. Going to school in the morning, I would either walk by the beach or take the bus which would go around the beach the same way. I loved it. JEH: What is your favorite thing to do in the city? JB: Going to soccer games at the Maracanã (stadium). You are part of a fan club, something bigger than yourself and the experience is bigger still. You never drive to the stadium – you go on a bus – and on the bus, everyone is wearing the same t-shirt, people are playing instruments… My team is Flamego (Clube de Regatas do Flamengo), and so our club all goes into the stadium using one entrance. The other team clubs use other entrances and then you are in the stadium. Once the game begins, it’s like under your skin. You hear the music, the cheering, everyone is singing the songs – then the opposite team responds, so it’s like a big rivalry. I was away from home for 20 years and when I came back, I visited my family, my friends, but the only place that I cried at was when I went to the stadium. Then I felt like I was truly home. JEH: What would people be surprised to know about Rio De Janeiro? JB: How friendly people are. If you are at the beach and you meet someone, they will say, “Hey, come over to my house – we are having a BBQ today!” Also, we do not do topless. People are surprised by that. And not every Brazilian woman is gorgeous – we are normal people – not out of a magazine. JEH: Of course, we must talk about Carnival – can you describe the experience? JB: An out-of-body experience. Seriously, that is what one of my friends said when they saw it for the first time. Carnival in Brazil is kind of like Mardi Gras in New Orleans. It’s for the people who live there. It’s for the whole family. You will see grandparents with their grandkids, moms and dads, families – it’s not like you see on the tv. The parades are for everyone. Of course, there are parades for tourists and crazy parties at clubs, but Carnival for Brazilians is a family event. When you are on the beach and you hear the drums, you leave the beach and join in, then when it has passed, you go back to the beach. It’s part of our culture. In Rio, people play the samba. On the beach, at the kiosks, you will have someone playing. People might have a can of beer and they are tapping. Before you know it, people are singing. Three things in Rio that are most famous – Carnival, samba, and the beach – you integrate all of them and have them all together.

JEH: What are the top three sites or activities that you would recommend a visitor to see or do in Rio? JB: Christ the Redeemer. It’s gorgeous and you can see the whole city. There isn’t a better view. Then, I would say Pedra do Sal. It was originally a quilombo village right by the port and is where samba music was born. Every Monday night all the locals go there. They sit around and play instruments. There are no restrooms though – you have to pay the locals 1 Brazilian Real to use their bathroom. I would say to go to a soccer game. Brazil has the most World Cup victories, and soccer is in our blood. And of course, the beach. Spend time on the beach. On Rio beaches, you will rent a chair and an umbrella. When you raise your arm, someone will bring you food, cold beer, and Caipirinhas (Brazilian mojito). But remember, if you are in the sun and drinking – you know what will happen. JEH: Can you speak a little about the culture of Brazil? JB: Very family oriented. Brazilians in general are very charismatic and inclusive and very friendly. We want you to join us, and we like to please people. JEH: If a visitor travels to Brazil, what would you recommend for them to see? JB: The Amazon. It’s an incredible experience as you are literally in the jungle. It’s amazing to be in the Amazon. Then, I would say Sao Paolo. It’s like New York. There are lots of theaters, restaurants, a great nightlife. Rio is more laid back. It’s more like Miami. Then, if you want more of a European vibe, head to the south of Brazil. Everyone there has blonde hair and blue eyes. JEH: What are you most proud of as a Brazilian? JB: The Brazilian soccer team (said laughing)! Look I am a fanatic. I admit it. I gave birth to my child on June 22, 1994, and on July 4th, I left my daughter with my mother so that I could see the World Cup game. We won! JEH: What do people need to know about the people of Brazil? JB: My advice for someone going to Brazil is to not be showy, don’t go showing off money. You will be taken advantage of. Be discreet. Also, Brazilians like to help and as I mentioned before they are very friendly. Brazil is just a very friendly and welcoming country. Of course, like any other place though, there may be jerks. JEH: Any last advice that you can give to our readers? JB: Try the local food and go to the little restaurants. The food is delicious. Also, go to Brazil with an open mind and enjoy it. Eat. And walk. And drink coconut water on the beach. And watch out for the Caipirinhas!

THE TOP 5 TANGO CLASSES IN BUENOS AIRES So, you’re heading to Buenos Aires and want to learn the dance of love. So, sign up for one of these classes, and soon your feet will be flying across the dancefloor… LA VIRUTA Perhaps one of the most well-known milongas (tango dancehalls) in Buenos Aires, La Virtua in Palermo Soho location draws both the best of the local tango scene as well as beginners. It offers classes that are split into six different levels of experience and they can be enrolled in at any time of the year without booking in advance. Armenia 1366, Palermo, Buenos Aires ACADEMIA DE TANGO MORA GODOY The Academia is widely considered to be one of the best places to train in tango in the world. This school is considered revolutionary in the world of tango because it was the first to introduce new concepts and styles, something which had never been attempted before. Av Pueyrredon 1090, Recoleta, Buenos Aires LA CATEDRAL La Catedral is in a crumbling old building in the heart of Almagro and at one time was a flour storage space. Its high-ceilinged, cavernous space is an amazing setting to learn the dance. Le Catedral is a great option for those looking to dip their toe in the tango pool and offers daily classes every day. Sarmiento 4006, Almagro, Buenos Aires ESCUELA DE TANGO Escuela de Tango has a long history of dance education and focuses on preserving the history of the dance alive. Classes are held daily. Junín 143, Once, Buenos Aires ESCUELA MARIPOSITA Located in a beautiful old mansion in the southern neighborhood of San Telmo, it is also set in a boutique hotel and cultural centre, which focuses on the tango experience. There are a wide range of classes available for beginners to experts, group and private. They also offer personal coaching and a choreography class for professional dancers. Carlos Calvo 950, San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Tango

enguins of the Straits of Magellan

by Dr Mike Bingham

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THE HISTORY The Straits of Magellan is a long sea channel that separates mainland South America from the island of Tierra del Fuego. The Straits was discovered by the Portuguese sailor Ferdinand de Magellanes in 1520. The discovery of this sea channel was very important, because it allowed ships to sail between the Atlantic Ocean and the Pacific Ocean without going around the treacherous Cape Horn. Before this discovery, many ships were sunk in terrible storms trying to navigate around Cape Horn. The North American gold rush during the 1800s made this route especially important, linking the Pacific coast of the USA with the Atlantic coast and Europe. The Straits of Magellan, as mentioned, is very long and has lots of branches that lead to nowhere, making it easy for ships to get lost. So, during that time a series of lighthouses were built to help ships find their way from one end to the other without getting lost. The opening of the Panama Canal in 1914 created a shorter route for international shipping, but the Straits still remains an important shipping route for South America.

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THE PENGUINS What the history books do not say is that penguins discovered the Straits of Magellan long before Ferdinand de Magellanes was even born. Penguins have been living in the Straits of Magellan for thousands of years. For penguins, the Straits is not important because it is a shipping route, but rather because it has enormous quantities of fish. That is why penguins live here in large numbers. Patagonia has an underwater platform of relatively shallow water, that extends from the South Atlantic coast of Argentina and across to the Falkland Islands. This shallow seabed retains the minerals running off the South American continent via rivers, and prevents them from falling into the deep abyss, making them available for surface-living plankton. In the Austral summer the days are very long, and this abundance of sunlight and nutrients causes a bloom of microscopic plants which feed a huge food web of tiny creatures. This in turn feeds an abundance of crustaceans and fish, which provide food for large populations of seabirds, whales, and dolphins. Amongst the animals that benefit from this food web are penguins. The coast of Patagonia, from Peninsula Valdes in Argentina to the sub-Antarctic islands of Cape Horn and Diego Ramirez, are home to millions of penguins, as well as other seabirds such as albatross, gulls, terns and cormorants. I have been studying penguins in this region since 1993, firstly in the Falkland Islands, and then from 1998 in Argentina and Chile. The first thing I discovered was that commercial fishing has a devastating effect on penguin populations. In 1984 the British Antarctic Survey conducted a census of penguin populations in the Falkland Islands. Afterwards, between 1986 and 1988, the Falkland Islands government established a commercial fishing industry in the 200 miles of territorial waters around the Falklands, to generate a better standard of living for the Falklands’ 2,500 inhabitants. When I repeated the Falkland Islands penguin census in 1996, I discovered that penguins had declined by 85% in the 12 years since the 1984 census. An 85% decline in just 12 years. This decline was due to the commercial fishing industry removing food which the penguins needed to raise their chicks. With fish stocks being depleted by thousands of large commercial fishing vessels during the critical chick rearing season, penguins were unable to feed their chicks. Chick survival dropped to very low levels, and the population declined as older penguins died and were not replaced by youngsters. In 1998, I expanded my studies to the Straits of Magellan, first in Chile and then in Argentina, covering sites at Magdalena Island, Contramaestra Island, Cabo Virgenes, and Punta Dungeness. Because the Straits of Magellan has laws preventing large-scale commercial fishing, fish stocks are not being disturbed, making it an ideal location to compare with the adjacent Falkland Islands. My research since 1998 has confirmed that penguins in the Straits of Magellan have increased, whilst

penguins in the adjacent Falkland Islands have continued to decline due to commercial fishing. One of the most popular tourist destinations in the Straits of Magellan is Magdalena Island, near to the city of Punta Arenas. Tourism began here in 1998, which is also the year that I set up penguin monitoring on the island. This monitoring program was initially funded for three years by the British Government’s Darwin Initiative. By the end of that term our penguin adoption program had become established, and since 2003 our work at all our locations has been entirely funded by our penguin adoption program. Due to the lack of commercial fishing, the population on Magdalena Island initially flourished. Its numbers increased from 59,000 breeding pairs in 1998 to 69,000 in 2005. However, a severe drought hit the island in 2009. It lasted 18 months and killed virtually all the vegetation on the island, turning the island into a desert of loose sandy soil. The almost constant Patagonian wind then blew that loose soil across the island in dust storms. The soil trickled into the burrows like an egg timer, around the clock, day after day, causing eggs to become buried, and nests to become abandoned. Breeding success dropped dramatically from 0.96 chicks per nest in 2008, to just 0.46 chicks per nest in 2009. By 2020, the population had dropped from 69,000 pairs to just 43,000 pairs, not because the adult penguins had died, but rather because many penguins decided to move to a nearby colony 100km along the coast, where conditions were

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more suitable for nesting. This happened to be another colony where I have been studying penguins, which lies between Cabo Virgenes and Punta Dungeness. In 2003 the population at Punta Dungeness was 120,000 pairs. It remained stable until 2010 when penguins began moving from Magdalena Island to Punta Dungeness. Since then, the population has increased to 146,000 pairs, an increase of 26,000 pairs. That is precisely how much the population has declined on Magdalena Island over the same period. There is also a colony on Contramaestra Island, only 15km from Magdalena Island. In 1998 this island had virtually no penguins, but as the population on Magdalena Island rapidly expanded between 1998 and 2002, penguins looking for more space moved to Contramaestra Island, and the population increased from a few hundred to about 25,000 pairs. This island is small, and the penguins compete with rabbits for burrows, so further expansion would not be easy. The population has remained stable at 25,000 pairs since 2002. When penguins began leaving Magdalena Island following the drought, the population on Contramaestra Island did not increase any further. The increase only occurred at Punta Dungeness, which has plenty of space for expansion. So, despite the drought on Magdalena Island, the total penguin population in the Straits of Magellan has actually increased by about 25,000 pairs over the last 25 years, whilst the population in the Falkland Islands has continued to decline as a result of commercial fishing.

WHERE TO VISIT For people interested in visiting penguins in this region, I would not hesitate in recommending Magdalena Island. It is by far the easiest to reach and is also the most impressive in terms of the number of penguins that one can actually see. Throughout the summer there are day trips from Punta Arenas which require no advanced booking. Even though the population has declined, there is still a very large number of penguins in a small area. The penguins have become so adapted to seeing visitors that they remain sleeping as tourists pass by, allowing tourists to get very close to the penguins. Tourists should not worry that their presence is harming the penguins. Our work has always including studying the effects of tourism, and our work has clearly shown that penguins actually do better when tourists are present. This may sound strange, but it is easily explained. One of the primary causes of nest failure is predation of the penguins’ eggs and chicks, and on Magdalena Island the principal predators are skuas. Whilst the penguins have no fear of people, the skuas do. So, there is a very low presence of skuas in the sector of the island where tourists visit. The presence of tourists therefore reduces predation and allows the penguins near to the tourist path to raise more chicks. You can visit freely and know that you are helping to protect penguins just by being there. The colony on Contramaestra Island is similar to Magdalena Island, except that it is further from Punta Arenas and there are no commercial tours visiting the island. There are no buildings on the island for shelter, and no water. The only structure is a very small automatic lighthouse. This makes visiting difficult and extremely expensive, since private charter is the only option. The island is also small, flat and less interesting than Magdalena Island, so there is really no advantage to paying a special charter to visit. The colony extending from Cabo Virgenes to Punta Dungeness can only be reached by a 120km long degraded dirt track road, full of enormous potholes that become muddy ponds after rain. There are no commercial tours, so renting your own 4x4 is the only option. The colony is larger than Magdalena Island, but it is hidden amongst thorn bushes, so regardless of which part of the colony you stand, you can only see a few penguins. By contrast Magdalena Island has no bushes, and you can see thousands of penguins from any location, making it much more spectacular for tourists.

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ADOPT A PENGUIN Our penguin adoption program was established in 1997. We received three years of funding from the British government to set up our studies in Chile, but since then all our work has been entirely funded by our penguin adoption program. Our program is the only adoption program to give each adoptee their very own penguin. All other adoption programs are what is known as ‘symbolic’ adoptions, which are essentially a donation to the cause, for which you get a cuddly toy and photos of the same penguin as other adoptees. The reason that our program is different is because sending each person photos of their very own penguin is so difficult, that other organizations simply do not do it. We begin when the penguins are sitting on the nest incubating the eggs. Each nest is marked with the name chosen by the adoptee, so we know which penguin is which. Our penguins are like people. You find them by going to their home. Each Magellanic penguin has its own home, and it remains faithfully to that home throughout its life. We visit each nest and take several photos of each penguin using our digital camera. For each photo we write down the photo number displayed by the camera, and the name of the penguin, using a ‘Write-in-the-Rain’ notebook and pen. Back at the office we download all the photos to our computer. We then use our notebook to rename the camera’s file names (which are numbers) to the name of the penguin for each photo. There are thousands of penguins, and each one has to be done by hand. There is no computer program that can do this automatically. It takes two or three days to rename the photo files. Then with all the photos named after the penguin, we send out emails one by one, attaching the photo to the correct email, so that each adoptee gets the correct photo of ‘their’ penguin. This part of the process would take about four weeks to complete if one person did it. You can see why all our competitors prefer to just send out the same photo to everyone. We also offer two categories of adoption so that it is tailored to the age of the adoptee. For adults and older children, we send out detailed information about the activities of each penguin, our work, photos of your penguin, and even a map to show where your penguin lives in case you wish to visit. For children under about nine years of age, we send out the same things, but the information is written as though the penguin is writing to the child. Receiving letters and photos from ‘their’ penguin pen-pal is something that young children love. If you wish to sign up to adopt a penguin, for yourself or as a unique gift for any animal lover, then visit us at www.seabirds.org. You will not only receive a unique and entertaining adoption experience, but you will also be helping to fund our work to protect penguins. Just Google the phrase “penguin research publications”. Ours will always be the top results. I have numerous publi-

cations in peer-reviewed scientific journals, which give you more detailed information about exactly what we do with our adoption fee. Other penguin adoption programs are nowhere to be found. During the Austral summer of 1995/96 Bingham led an island-wide penguin census of the Falkland Islands, showing that populations had declined by 85% since the introduction of commercial fishing. As commercial fishing had brought new wealth to the Falklands government, Bingham was dismissed, arrested by the Falkland Islands Police, and told he was to be deported. Bingham took the Governor, Attorney General, and the entire Executive Council to the Supreme Court of the Falklands, where the judge declared them guilty of Human Rights violations. News of the penguin declines was not only published but became famous because of the human rights abuse and subsequent court case. Documentaries were made about Bingham and his work by Paramount Pictures, the BBC, Mare TV (Germany) and INCAA (Argentina). The story was also published as a paperback by Bingham entitled “The Falklands Regime”. Bingham set up the Environmental Research Unit and was given three years funding by the British government to continue his penguin protection work in the Falkland Islands, and to expand it into Chile and Argentina. Bingham set up his penguin adoption program to provide independent funding, free of government and corporate interference. By the time that the British government funding came to an end, Bingham’s adoption program had become established, and the penguin adoption program has funded all his research ever since. More details can be found at: www.seabirds.org www.penguins.cl www.falklands.net

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Staycation

AT ITS BEST

An At-Home Retreat That Rivals Any Getaway By Sherry Moeller Photos by Stacy Zarin Goldberg

Sometimes the best vacation is a staycation, especially if you have an outdoor oasis that rivals any faraway luxury retreat. Such is the case of a GTM Architects-designed pool house in the heart of Bethesda, Maryland. This contemporary masterpiece, designed by Mark Kaufman of GTM Architects, www.gtmarchitects.com, and built by Jeffco Development, is perfectly placed on a lushlylandscaped lot with refreshing pool and spacious patio in the front and party central in the back.

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Integral to the design was the owners’ desire to have a contemporary pool house that not only complements, but also contrasts the traditional style of their main home. By seamlessly integrating stone, glass, wood and metal finishes, GTM Architects created a relaxing getaway just outside their back door. A kitchenette, living room with steel fireplace, hightop seating, and secondary seating that doubles as a game table or artist’s corner are spaces you can see. An open-air shower with pergola and a bathroom are behind the scenes. Eleven-foot-tall glass sliding panels enclose the living areas, while stone walls and a cantilevered metal and

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mahogany roof connect the interior spaces to the exterior. The entire pool house is wired with a sophisticated low-voltage lighting and sound system that can be controlled from the primary home or any mobile device. The new pool house not only provides a luxurious resortstyle retreat, but it also creates a striking focal point in the yard with the swimming pool as a visual anchor between the property’s two structures. The pool house, which is surrounded by new and existing plantings, provides an ideal staycation location for year-round entertaining.

DESIGN NEWS CURRENT DESIGN NEWS

THOS. MOSER CELEBRATES ITS 50TH ANNIVERSARY With 4 US Showrooms to Visit, the Handmade American Furniture Company Also Offers a Week-Long Workshop to Build Your Own Furniture by Sherry Moeller Photos courtesy of Thos. Moser

Eastward Collection -1983 In 1972, Tom and Mary Moser decided to walk into an uncertain future together by starting Thos. Moser. “We had no particular reason to believe we could succeed, but I had to make things out of wood. It was as simple as that,” says Tom Moser, Founder, Thos. Moser, Handmade American Furniture, who left a position as a Bates College professor to start the company, along with his wife Mary. Over the past 50 years, Thos. Moser has designed and built furniture for Popes, US Presidents and CEOs, as well as corporate offices, schools, libraries, and museums, and mostly for residences across the US. This year the brand celebrates its 50th anniversary, and continues to have a loyal following of collectors, as well as new customers, including millennials looking for sustainable solutions. “In the 50 years since our start, much has changed in the world,” adds Aaron Moser, one of Tom and Mary’s sons who is chairman of Thos. Moser. “And while time has encouraged us to adapt, our values have not wavered. The way we 64

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pursue craft at Thos. Moser and the principles that guide us are as fundamental today as when we started.” Hands-On Workshop – With showrooms in Washington, DC, Boston, Freeport, Maine, and San Francisco, Thos. Moser offers four stops from coast to coast to see its furniture up close. In addition, it also offers an opportunity to build a piece of furniture yourself with its Customer In Residence program in its workshop in Auburn, Maine. Launched in 2007, the program attracts people from all types of professions to spend a week in the workshop alongside Thos. Moser artisans to learn woodworking techniques and pride of craft – resulting in a piece of furniture that you can say you built yourself. Faces of Craft - The staying power and the true backbone of the brand for the past 50 years has been the dedicated team of artisans who have made it their life’s work to create handmade sustainable furniture for generations to come. Since 1987, Thos. Moser has operated out of a

SOME THOS. MOSER DESIGNS THROUGH THE DECADES 1970s 1 Thos. Moser Continuous Arm Chair -1977 2 Dr. White’s Chest -1976 1980s 3 New Gloucester Rocker -1984

5 1990s Harpswell Chair -1992 4 Lolling Chair -1999 2000s 5 Drift Lounge -2011 6 Wing Collection -2013

90,000-square-foot workshop in Auburn, Maine with nearly 70 craftsmen and craftswomen—14 of whom have been with the company since the 1980s and 15 since the 1990s. “My debt is to the craftsmen who make our furniture. They are Thos. Moser,” says Tom Moser. Resurgence of Heirloom Furniture - The global pandemic has forced consumers to slow down, consider what they are bringing into their homes, and create a space that we can feel good about. This “slowing down” moment in history is a recipe for success for an American business, crafting with materials grown in the US and creating handmade, modern-day heirlooms. Heirloom furniture, such as Thos. Moser’s, recalls an era of pride in workmanship and a necessity to make things that would last. As they age, these pieces look as good and relevant as they were when first purchased.

2010s NYPL Branch Chair -2018 7 Wishbone Extension Table -2019

Sustainability - Thos. Moser likens its strong root system of family, partners, colleagues, and customers to that of the American Black Cherry tree, which they harvest in the Allegany Plateau to make much of their sustainable furniture, along with walnut from the Missouri riverbanks. Lessons Learned Through the Years – In Their Words – “Our biggest business lesson: it’s all about relationships. The relationships we have made over the past 50 years, and continue to cultivate, have been our best business asset. Our community of craftspeople and customers is the driving force of what makes Thos. Moser, and our furniture, something truly unique.” For more information about Thos. Moser, Handmade American Furniture, visit www.thosmoser.com.

[BE]LIEVE

I N AC C E S S T O T H E E X T R AO R D I N A R Y Personal fulfillment and enrichment, quality time with family and friends, an opportunity to detach and de-stress from your everyday worries. That is what life is all about. This is what travel should be all about. Let us handle the planning, while you enjoy the ride.

“SOME PEOPLE TRAVEL… SOME PEOPLE TRAVEL WELL”

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NORTH AMERICA

Prawns on the dinner menu at The Henri

SEE THE OLD-FASHIONED WAY – BY TRAIN

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If taking the train across Canada isn’t on your bucket list, it should be. Seeing the country by train is an unforgettable experience. The train trip is a wonderful way to slow travel across Canada and enjoy the scenery, cities, and people along the way. The journey has something for everyone. Whether you are a nature enthusiast, an urban explorer, a train devotee, or consider yourself an equal opportunity traveler, you will visit the nation’s most popular locales. On the West Coast, Vancouver delights with its proximity to both the mountains and the ocean. The Canadian Rockies will bowl you over in awe, when its alpine towns seamlessly collide with its acclaimed National Parks, Jasper, and Banff. The cosmopolitan appeal of Toronto and Ottawa is, well, appealing, while Montreal, with its French flair, delights. The natural wonders of the Maritimes, including Halifax’s Lunenburg and Mahone Bay, offer a glimpse at what makes Canada’s eastern seaboard so special. Some Canada rail tours include overnight journeys aboard premier sleeper trains, such as VIA Rail’s Canadian train. This train departs both from Vancouver and from Toronto and puts some of Canada’s most wondrous scenery on display as you travel across Canada. Other tours utilize the Rocky Mountaineer, run by IRT, which is an all-daylight luxury train that delves deep into parts of the country that are inaccessible by any other mode of transportation. There are tours that fit every budget – from luxury travel to economy (but if do travel economy, be prepared to “sleep” in your normal train seat). THOUGHTS TO THINK BEFORE YOU BOOK. Contrary to what you would think, winter is a great time to take a trans-Canadian train. The trips are much cheaper than high season, but even more importantly, there are fewer people to compete with for views on the train. But make sure if you do travel during this season to bring a warm winter coat. One of the only bumps that you might experience is delays. This is mainly because on Canada rail, freight trains bring in more money than passenger trains do so they get priority on the track. The freight company also owns the train tracks that you will be traveling on. Make sure to choose a train with a “Dome Car” because it is one of the best parts of traveling by train. Comfortable seating is elevated above the other train cars, which give you a 360 view of your journey. Equally, make sure that the tour operator that you choose uses connected Wi-Fi. Not all trains are equipped with the service. You will travel through 5 time zones, so don’t bother worrying about the time. During the journey, you will pass through Atlantic, Eastern, Central, Mountain, and Pacific zones. It will always be changing. So, sit back and enjoy the ride. If traveling by train across our northern neighbor piques your interest, check out these three different itineraries. Perhaps one of them will appeal and soon enough you will be hearing “All Aboard!”

ACROSS CANADA BY TRAIN

Vacations by Rail www.vacationsbyrail.com/canada This 14-day journey begins in beautiful Vancouver. This coastal city is home to beautiful landmarks like Gastown, the Sunken Gardens, and Queen Elizabeth Park. You will have a day at leisure before boarding VIA Rail’s Canadian to continue to your next destination, Toronto. Before arriving in Toronto, you will enjoy a four-night rail journey aboard the Canadian as you get to know fellow travelers, read a good book or take in the beautiful passing scenery. While in Toronto, enjoy a day trip to spectacular Niagara Falls. Take a boat ride to witness firsthand the magical falls that make this magnificent landmark so famous. You will then travel by rail from Toronto to Montreal. Have time at leisure to explore legendary attractions like Old Montreal and the Olympic complex. Afterwards, it’s on to Quebec. You will have ample time to visit the historical and modern highlights of this beautiful city on a comprehensive sightseeing tour, the perfect way to witness the absolute beauty that encompasses the city. Continuing, you head to Halifax aboard the Ocean. While in Halifax you can visit charming Lunenburg, a scenic port town with the largest fish fleet in Nova Scotia. Pamper yourself with first-class accommodations, delicious meals, and access to exclusive lounge cars to view Canada’s ever-changing scenery. Stay in centrally located hotels and enjoy sightseeing tours to get you acquainted with each unique city on your route. And, of course, enjoy ample time at your leisure to see each city your way. ITINERARY DAY 1 - Vancouver DAY 2 - VIA Rail to Toronto DAY 3 - Across Alberta DAY 4 - Eastbound through the Prairies DAY 5 - Across the Canadian Shield DAY 6 - Toronto DAY 7 - Niagara Falls Excursion DAY 8 - Toronto to Montreal DAY 9 – Montreal to Quebec City DAY 10 - Quebec City Sightseeing DAY 11 - Quebec City to Halifax DAY 12 - VIA Rail En Route to Halifax DAY 13 - Excursion to Lunenburg DAY 14 - Halifax

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VANCOUVER TO HALIFAX

Canada Rail Vacations www.canadarail.ca On this journey, you start on the Canadian west coast and end on the Atlantic. Over the course of 16 days, you will see lush West Coast rainforests, remote glaciers atop mountains, Canada’s Prairies, lake country, and the rugged East Coast. It will be life changing train travel as you chug through eight provinces and places you would never dreamt existed. The world-famous Rocky Mountaineer is a luxury sightseeing train that travels exclusively through the Canadian Rockies by daylight, slowing to highlight natural marvels. While indulging in hand-crafted, local cuisine, top-shelf beverages, and endless snacks and treats, you will listen to professional guides who will narrate Western Canada’s storied history and highlight unforgettable natural beauty. The Rocky Mountaineer stops overnight in the lake town of Kamloops so guests can sleep in a comfortable hotel and get ready for the rest of their adventure. Aboard The Canadian train, you’ll step into a golden past and relive Canada’s history. A truly nostalgic experience, VIA Rail includes made to order meals in mid-century rail dining cars, glass domed observation cars, and private sleeper cabins to enjoy Canada’s scenery. ITINERARY DAY 1: Vancouver Arrival DAY 2: Rocky Mountaineer Train from Vancouver to Kamloops - overnight in Kamloops DAY 3: Rocky Mountaineer Train from Kamloops to Banff - overnight in Banff DAY 4: Banff Sightseeing Tour including Gondola - overnight in Banff DAY 5: Banff to Lake Louise Sightseeing Tour - Mountains, Lakes and Waterfalls overnight in Lake Louise DAY 6: Sightsee from Lake Louise to Jasper including Columbia Icefields Excursion overnight in Jasper DAY 7: Board “The Canadian” Train in Jasper - overnight aboard the train DAY 8: “The Canadian” Train through Saskatchewan and Manitoba - overnight aboard the train DAY 9: “The Canadian” Train through Ontario - overnight aboard the train DAY 10: “The Canadian” Train - arrival in Toronto - - overnight in Toronto DAY 11: Niagara Falls Sightseeing Day Tour - overnight in Toronto DAY 12: VIA Rail Business Class from Toronto to Montreal - overnight in Montreal DAY 13: Montreal sightseeing. Board “The Ocean” Train - Montreal to Halifax - overnight aboard the train DAY 14: “The Ocean” Train - arrival in Halifax - overnight in Halifax DAY 15: Halifax Sightseeing Day - overnight in Halifax DAY 16: Halifax Departure

TRANS-CANADA RAIL ADVENTURE

The Society of International Railway Travelers Irtsociety.com This 16-day luxury travel passage offers passengers private tours of Yoho National Park, Icefields Parkway, and Niagara Falls. Spend four days exploring the pristine wilds of Lake Louise, Jasper, and Banff National Parks. The tour runs between Toronto and Vancouver. It crosses northern Ontario’s scenic lake lands, the prairies of Manitoba, Saskatchewan and Alberta and the towering Canadian Rockies, before ending on the Pacific Coast. Take this legendary Trans-Canada rail tour on two first-class trains: The Canadian, with VIA Rail’s lovely service, including its luxurious Prestige Class, and the all-daylight Rocky Mountaineer train. ITINERARY DAY 1: Toronto DAY 2: Private tour of Niagara Falls DAY 3: Depart Toronto DAYS 4-5: On board Canadian DAY 6: Jasper DAY 7: Private Jasper sightseeing DAY 8: Jasper DAY 9: Lake Louise DAY 10: Lake Louise DAY 11: Private Yoho Tour, Lake Louise-Banff DAY 12: Private Banff sightseeing DAY 13: Banff DAY 14: Banff-Kamloops DAY 15: Kamloops-Vancouver DAY 16: Vancouver

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THE TOP 5 PLACES TO ORDER POUTINE IN MONTRÉAL Crispy fries, brown gravy and squeaky cheese curds, what’s not to love about Canada’s unofficial dish? Here’s where you can eat the very best classic poutine (and others) in Montréal… CHEZ TOUSIGNANT Everything at Chez Tousignant is homemade with care. The eatery’s poutine’s fries are cut daily in-house and fried to the perfect consistency, topped with well-sourced curds, and coated with a gravy—with a slightly herbaceous and peppery kick to it—that’s made from scratch. 6956 Drolet Street, Montréal PATATI PATATA This small greasy spoon has been a favorite haunt for over 20 years. Here classic poutine is made with a heap of skinny fries and fresh cheese curds drowned in an amazing vegetarian gravy. They also offer their patatine, which differs from the classic due to the addition of mushrooms, peppers and onions. 4177 St Laurent Boulevard, Montréal GREENSPOT A neighborhood institution, this classic Saint-Henri greasy spoon serves 25 different poutine choices. The classic type is available but so is the Put-in with chopped steak, onions and a dark gravy. 3041 Notre-Dame Street W, Montréal CHEZ CLAUDETTE This eatery has been a local favorite since 1982 and serves a wide range of poutine choices—nearly 50 in total—that were created in part by loyal customers contributing ideas. At night, seating is difficult to find as diners enjoy poutines that range from the classic to those topped with everything from fried fish to chicken tandoori. 351 Laurier Ave E, Montréal LA BANQUISE This is the most referred-to poutine restaurant in Montreal, which is borne out through a near-constant line-up to get into the restaurant. They serve over 30 different kinds of poutine, ranging from the most classic cheese-and-gravy combinations to more eclectic creations such as La Royale (pulled pork, apples & bacon). 994 Rue Rachel E, Montréal

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DETAILS IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS

It’s time to go! If you are looking for a great carry-on, one of these may be the ticket… 3

1. EDDIE BAUER - EXPEDITION 22 DUFFEL 2.0 Lightweight, super durable and easy-rolling, the next-gen Expedition luggage is built for superior performance. Rugged polycarbonate and nylon construction keeps gear protected, while the ultra-wide opening to the main compartment gives easy access. 2. TUMI - INTERNATIONAL EXPANDABLE 4 WHEELED CARRY-ON Made with a recycled polycarbonate shell, it’s lightweight and flexible, yet still durable. Its lining has been treated with the innovative anti-microbial coating to help prevent the growth of bacteria, mildew and mold that may cause fabric odor on its surface. 3. DAGNE DOVER - LANDON CARRYALL BAG This carryall is lightweight and features a dust bag for shoes, a leash for keys and a pouch for those must have items. It’s made of 100% premium neoprene, a high-tech fabric that is water resistant and hand washable. It’s insulating and shock-absorbent thanks to the material makeup. 4. YETI - CROSSROADS® 60L DUFFEL Organize your gear with two divider panels that separate the bag into three sections. The bag’s structured foam walls means that it will not collapse when empty. Inspired by motorcycle gear, the duffel’s Tuffskin Nylon is expedition grade which makes it super tough.

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DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT THE BEST OF THE BEST

IWONA PETROV Iwona Petrov is co-founder and lead interior designer at yZiGN Interiors, specializing in creating personalized residential interiors infused with global sensitivities. Iwona and team, including co-founder and CEO Alex Petrov, focus on each client’s well-being and the importance of designing spaces that enhance how clients live and work in their homes. The yZIGN aesthetic is rooted in a broad spectrum of experiences and elevated by a spirit of inclusion and warmth that’s informed, yet approachable. She understands that homes are reflections of the owners and an evolution of what inspires them. Iwona believes in a multi-layered, sensory approach; how one feels and reacts to a space when entering is her guide. Through an exploration of color, fabrics, furnishings, textures and materials, Iwona incorporates a wealth of experience into every room. She believes that fashion and personal style inspire interiors as she continues to push the boundaries of interior design. Iwona visualizes and interprets the needs of a diverse

range of clients, while also bringing inspiration from her worldly travels. Read more about Iwona and what inspires her. Tell us about your background: where you were born, grew up and why you went into design? I was born in Poland with a curious heart and a mother who has exceptional taste in fashion and aesthetics. She was the one who taught me about quality and timeless style. From shoes to draperies, everything had to be just right. She first introduced me to design by driving me to the fashion house and allowing me to create my prom dress. Working with the dressmaker and being presented with different textures, patterns, and colors was exciting. My mom guided me into the world of imagination and creation, where ideas become a reality. I felt invincible in that dress. I fell in love with interior design while studying and living in the USA. Photos by Maryland Photography, Inc.

Do you travel often and if so, how do your travels influence your designs? Being exposed to travel early in life also impacted how I reacted to incredible architecture and different cultures and ways of life. Travel is an excellent tool that helped me realize there is always something new to see. Nothing repeats, and nothing feels the same. Are there certain countries that provide the most inspiration to you, personally and professionally, and why? Seeing Buckingham Palace at 16, Colosseum at 17, and Versaille at 18 were my early introductions to the beautiful world of people to meet and places to experience. I landed in New York at the age of 20 and have lived in DC for the past 18 years. Life is a beautiful journey, and my work allows me to fulfill the craving to meet new people and cultures and be invited inside people’s homes. What products are you drawn to often and what countries are they from? When going back to some of the most amazing places in Europe I’ve seen, it always seems to be the countryside and the local people that made an indelible mark on me and capture my interest. This is also true in my travels today, where the most inspiration comes from the street musicians, a little local restaurant with exceptional food, and often unique art, or even just drawing on the energy from the people around me. All that creates a one-of-a-kind experience. It’s not what you see, but also how it makes you feel that tells the story. Anything else you want to add about traveling and how it impacts your designs? Every time I visit a home and meet a new client, it’s like a unique travel experience. You see an interesting piece of furniture, collectible art pieces, or hear an intriguing personal story. It’s as fascinating as picking up a suitcase and traveling to a new place. Every design I create is woven from those personal stories, dreams, and fantasies, those pieces that carry memories or meaning. There is no home or design that is alike; just people who long for the expression of telling their stories through design. It’s a lifetime of learning and expanding new horizons. I’m always curious about what I will see next and what my clients and I will create. For more information about Iwona and yZiGN Interiors, visit www.yzign.com.

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WOODSTOCK FOLLOWING THE ROCKEFELLERS TO

VERMONT

by Ruth Kennedy Sudduth

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You could do a lot worse than to follow the Rockefellers’ choices of great places: from the Tetons to Colonial Williamsburg to Mount Desert to St. John, USVI. It is a distinguished portfolio. Laurance Rockefeller fell in love with Woodstock, Vermont when he married his college roommate’s sister, Mary French, a member of Woodstock’s distinguished Billings family. The town that Laurance loved remains very much the same. Set along the Ottauquechee River, Woodstock is at the base of rolling green hills, with churches, white clapboard houses, and the Woodstock Inn surrounding its Green – the hub of activity for the community. My group, LandVest, is lucky that we have offices in an old stone house on the Green. Our meetings are serenaded by music, drifting upwards on a warm afternoon. (We also can run over to the summer market to grab fresh bread or a hunk of local cheese or a bag of fresh greens for salad!) A covered bridge right off the Green leads to the base of Mount Tom, which is threaded with carriage trails that echo those that the Rockefellers also built in Mt. Desert, Maine. The Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historic Site and Billings Farm Museum give life to an (idealized) version of a Vermont farm, with big-eyed Jersey cows and friendly calves that entertain visitors with an occasional scratchy lick… and ice cream Gillingham’s General Store, in the center of Woodstock, still sells, well, just about everything. A simple trip in to make a set of extra keys usually turns into at least a little wander of the aisles, with wooden floors creaking, to pick from hardware and penny candy to kombucha and craft beers.

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The village offers enough locally owned retail, galleries, and restaurants to engage visitors on a rainy day, but the real focus is the out-of-doors. The community strongly supports conservation and recreation. Local mountain bike trails (thanks to MTB Woodstock), local-sized skiing at Suicide Six with a renowned kids’ racing program, big mountain skiing at Killington and Okemo, and more gravel roads than could be explored in a lifetime of biking are a big part of the community. Horseback riding at Green Mountain Horse Association (where I am proud to serve on the Board) in South Woodstock educates and features competitions in trail, hunter-jumper, dressage, driving, and event-ing throughout the season. Woodstock is a welcoming community that draws a global audience. Those from the Northeast Metroplex, California, and Texas are no strangers. New community members engage in local non-profits ranging from the arts to human services, and of course, horses, whether that is in education and competition at GMHA or therapeutic riding at High Horses. The larger Upper Valley area, of which Woodstock is a part, takes in the vibrant college town of Hanover, NH, with Dartmouth’s lively arts, education, and world-class health care. Vermont is known for its agriculture, with its iconic scenes of cows grazing on green pastures. It has been a challenging last several decades for small farmers, with so few of the glorious big barns still housing dairy herds. The Woodstock area is fortunate to have a number of working dairies in operation, with traffic stopping to let the ladies pass.

A mix of new and old agriculture have helped to keep Vermont rural….from Vermont Wagyu in nearby Springfield, to farm-to-table produce pretty much everywhere, lots of local breweries (Long Trail and Harpoon both have restaurants) and distilleries like Vermont Spirits in Quechee. Maple syrup is both a cottage industry and a large-scale operation. Sap lines run down hillsides to shiny tanks, but there are still old school galvanized buckets hanging on ancient maples in the early spring. A favorite enterprise for new Vermont kids is tapping and making their own syrup. It’s a lot of boiling, but very satisfying! What we really love in Woodstock is its sense of community. Whether out hiking the trails, soaking in a swimming hole, stopping at a summer farmer’s market that pop up throughout the Upper Valley (you can pretty much shop fresh and local somewhere most days), you can catch up with old friends. At the terrific local-focused Brownsville Butcher and Woodstock Farmer’s Market, Barnard General Store and The Village Butcher, you can eat something harvested in the last few days.

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We’d love to show you some of our favorite places, please reach out. You can also follow us on Instagram at @landvest. vermont, @rkennedysudduth, and @dia.story.jenks.landvest Five fun things to do: • Hike up to the top of Garvin Hill in Hartland: an instant gratification short hike through a sugarbush and grazing cows to a huge view at the top. • Eat truffle fries on the porch with a great local brew or cider at Worthy Kitchen. • Swing off the rope swing on the Ottauquechee River along Old River Road. • Surf whichever farmer’s market is open on a summer day. • Catch up with the local gossip around the tables at the South Woodstock Country Store.

Kimberly Allen-Mills

Capturing the World One Image at a Time

Photographs are more than images created by seamlessly joined pixels or lifted from film that mark important moments in life. They are our connection to the world around us. Each day, thousands of photographs are taken illustrating family vacations, dinners with friends and, of course, the ubiquitous “selfie.” Photographs can be taken by oneself and shared via social media. Or, they can be taken by professional photographers and placed in cherished albums. They are used as screensavers and adorn nightstands. They are viewed through countless pages of magazines and splashed on billboards. Newspapers hire photojournalists specifically for this purpose to illustrate to us and connect us with the world in which we live. It is a dangerous job — often times fraught with peril. It is a difficult job to painstakingly capture the moment perfectly for the ages. It is a rewarding job to understand the significance of the shot taken. No one understands the job better than Kimberly Allen-Mills. Allen-Mills has shot for many internationally acclaimed broadsheets — The Sunday Times of London and The Independent to name but two.

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“I HAVE BEEN DRAWN TO IMAGES FOR THEIR ABILITY TO IMMEDIATELY DELIVER A MESSAGE.” Images are powerful. Some of have spawned revolutions while others have promoted peace. Many have captured flawless beauty while others demonstrate raw ugliness. While the viewer of the image concentrates on the subject, often times, what is left un-regarded is the man or woman who has risked life (and sometimes limb) to bring the shot to the page. And, sometimes, life behind the lens is as interesting a subject as that which is being recorded through the lens. “We were in Kashmir,” begins Allen Mills, “covering demonstrations against India. All of the journalists were staying together in one place and we heard a story about a group of demonstrators that had been fired upon. One demonstrator had pretended to be dead and survived and had been able to get to us to tell his story. Very early the next morning, we were woken up by officers banging on our doors in the hotel, telling us to get up and outside to a bus. They were trying to confiscate any film, pulling it out from the canister to expose it. We were put on the bus, driven to a plane waiting on the tarmac at the airport and sent back to 92

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New Delhi. I just remember the fear in the faces of the young army officers carrying their guns while they were getting us on the bus - fear, guns and confusion are a very scary mixture.” A good photojournalist understands that capturing an image is not just about the subject itself. It is about the use of cameras and other equipment, the creativity of thought in finding the right story to tell and the skills in bringing that story to life in two-dimensional form. It is an inherent love and, from a young age, Allen Mills nurtured it. “For as long as I can remember,” she says, “I have been drawn to images for their ability to immediately deliver a message without words and transport you to another place. I am a visual learner and rely heavily on images for my information. I bought my first camera by selling seeds around my neighborhood when I was twelve years old. It was a brownie instamatic and I think that I still have it in a box somewhere. My high school had been newly built and they included a dark room – I took photography class and spent hours in it. I built pin hole cameras and was fascinated by the process of capturing an image, even without a lens, and I still love watching a black and white image appear, as if by magic, in the developer tray.”

Allen Mills concentrated on her journey as photojournalist shortly after meeting the man who would become her husband. After graduating from Emerson College and the University of Massachusetts, she studied, worked and acted at HB Studio, a professional acting studio in Greenwich Village, New York. The director of the studio introduced her to a British journalist and it was Kismet. “I had not been able to do a lot of photography since I moved to New York to act,” she says, “but his interest in photography brought me back to it. I took several professional photography courses at the International Center for Photography in New York and, early in 1986, a former journalistic colleague of his asked him to join a new newspaper that was created called The Independent. He agreed to join and to establish the South African bureau and we arrived in Johannesburg just after the South African regime cracked down on the anti-apartheid movement. A state-of-emergency and been declared and more than 25,000 people were arrested.” After three years covering the rule of apartheid in South Africa, the team moved through the world covering the hottest stories of the time. They moved to India and joined the Sunday Times of London, then lived in Berlin where they

covered the fall of the Berlin Wall and the reconstruction of Germany and Europe. In 1992 Paris called and then New York in 1995. After moving back to Paris again in 1998, Allen Mills would eventually return to the United States in 2002, settling in the Washington DC area, with her two daughters. Throughout this era, Allen Mills captured not only photographs for the world to see but, also, personal experiences that she would carry for life. Some illustrate the beauty and grace of the human spirit during times of tumult and grief. While others exemplify the adage “life goes on” even when living under extraordinary duress. “There was a township of people that had been forced out of their homes and were living in a squatter camp on a strip of land between two highways,” says Allen Mills, “they had been told to leave and had fled before the bull dozers razed their homes to the ground. They were being moved into one of the new “homelands” in order to strip them of their South African citizenship. They had taken what they could carry – many of them had full households with beautiful antique dining sets, china tea sets, silver - and had built a camp of shelters made of plastic sheeting, salvaged wood, pieces of highway signs. In one of these plastic bag huts, we listened to a woman tell us what had happened to her. As she spoke, she opened a Marks & Spencers Christmas cake and served it to us on beautiful china plates. I don’t know for what special occasion she had been saving that cake but I have never felt such gracious hospitality. In Israel during the first gulf war, scud missiles were fired and the threat was that they would have gas attached to them. Everyone had a gas mask, and when the sirens would go off, people would put their masks on and continue what they were doing. In the restaurants guests would finish their meal and their wine with their gas masks on.” One story that Allen Mills covered extensively were the events that transpired on Tiananmen Square in June of 1989. After images of the student protestors beamed across the planet, she shot and spoke with everyday Chinese in the streets paying close attention to their stories, the official line and the international responses. Here, she also got to partake in another interesting experience that would create a lifetime memory. “In 1989, we were in Beijing for three months to cover the aftermath of the Tiananmen square protests which resulted in military suppression and the deaths of hundreds, if not thousands, of civilian protestors. We had two televisions in the hotel room, one on a western news station and one on a Chinese news station, showing the same images but with two opposite explanations. The story being told there was that the students in the square had become violent and attacked the police – they had mother’s of soldiers crying and statements from alleged witnesses - it was frightening to watch government misinformation in action. We spoke with some Chinese citizens in a park that was noted in the

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guide books as a good place to meet with Chinese students who were learning English and they were all convinced that the reports about what happened in the square were totally fabricated by the western media. All the while we were speaking with them, there were men with black arm bands walking through the crowd, listening. As a journalist, many times you are going into an area when everyone else is rushing to leave. That was very noticeable in China after Tiananmen Square, all of the tourists had left so we saw the Great Wall and the Forbidden City completely empty. There was a very popular shooting range outside of the city where you received what looked like a restaurant menu with every type of weapon imaginable listed – hand guns, mortars, ground to air missile launchers. You simply checked off what weapon you wanted to try and they would set you up. Because there were no other customers, they let us try everything and we spent a day blowing up stacks of bricks on the hillside.” Of course, the casual viewer of a striking image does not often think of the journalist shooting the photograph. For a good photojournalist, this is an intentional act and carries through to subject itself. Allen Mills says, “You try and disappear and make them forget that you are there so that you get the reality and not what they think they should show for the camera. If you can achieve that, you can watch what is happening and try and feel the rhythm of what is happening so that you can capture those moments of truth.” And, that is what is so special to Allen Mills and that which she enjoys most. “Being able to be a witness to people’s lives, being invited to see and hear people’s stories, many times at the most critical or catastrophic times of their lives and then being able to retell their story to a wider audience in order to hopefully help or have some positive influence on the outcome. And, with photographs - when you see an image - you see the faces, the body language and the look in the eyes of the people. It is easier to immediately feel what they are experiencing, to empathize, and harder to forget, to move on, to not be moved in some way.” From the thousands of images that Allen Mills has shot, many stand out for her as personal achievements. And, she does have a favorite. She also has a fascinating anecdote from her life as a photojournalist. “Even though it is a very sad and disheartening story, my favorite image is of the mother in India whose daughter was killed. In the face of unimaginable grief, anger and despair, she remained strong and continued to fight for justice for her daughter. When we first moved to South Africa, we were invited to a New Years Eve party at the home of a journalist in Soweto. We had to hide in the back seat of his car to get in and out because, as white people, we were not supposed to be in the

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townships. It was a wonderful evening full of music, dancing, food and drink. In the midst of the celebration a young businessman told us his story of two months before, having been dragged out of his car and beaten unconscious while his fiancée was put into the trunk and the car lit on fire by a group of white youths who assumed he had stolen the car – it was a BMW. At the end of the night, as we were driven out of Soweto, we passed an abandoned check point that the Camrades had set up and the tires were still burning. We were lucky.” The life of a photojournalist is both exciting and fulfilling. While shooting in dangerous locations shots of adrenaline invade the system and the personal anecdotes and stories provide entryways into the human condition. But, it is never predictable. “There can be a lot of “hurry up and wait” sometimes depending on what type of story you are covering. But, sometimes you walk in and just start shooting images. Sometimes, you need to wait and watch to understand what is happening and what is important and how you can capture it.”

These days, Allen Mills has taken a break from roaming the world looking for the pinnacle shots. She spends time with her daughters, who have taken on their mother’s interest in creative fields. Allen Mills enthusiastically declares, “I am very proud of my two beautiful daughters. One who is pursuing photography and the other who is pursuing theatre. I am glad that they share my love of these two art forms.” And, she works downtown for an international hotel chain where she remains exposed to myriad global denizens. Many of these people who have emigrated from regions she has lived or covered. With so many facets of her life, Allen Mills is equally proud of its constant theme. “If there is a single thread that runs through all of my life experience it is a passion to understand people, their lives and struggles and to try and help by getting their stories out to a broader audience.” Such is the role of a great photojournalist.

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Mother in India: This image is of a mother whose daughter, the beauty of the village, had caught the eye of one of the government officials. When the girl spurned his advances, he raped, murdered and left her on the ground in the middle of the village. Everyone knew that the official had committed this heinous crime but no one would arrest or charge him. Bhopal India: In December 1984 there was a deadly gas leak at the Union Carbide India Limited (UCIL) pesticide plant in Bhopal which rolled through the shanty town were the workers lived and killed thousands of people, many in their sleep. Survivors and family members who still live there are dealing with the serious health issues caused by exposure to the gas. We met an 11 year old boy who had to have an emergency heart and lung operation after the gas leak in order to save his life. In the townships, there was suffering but there was also such life and a sense of humor in the face of violence and oppression. In Muncieville, the township where Arch Bishop Desmond Tutus grew up, boys played with an old gun they had found. A group of people had been forced out of their homes and were living in a squatter camp on a strip of land between two highways – they had been told to leave and had fled before the bull dozers razed their homes to the ground – and were being moved into the Ciskei, one of the new “homelands” in order to strip them of their South African citizenship. In Beijing, there were men posted throughout the city with black armbands, waiting for people to come and report the names of anyone who had been in Tiananmen Square that night. The state of emergency that had been declared included a ban on taking photographs so all of the photojournalists had resorted to taking photographs through the windows of vans. While walking through the city one day, we encountered an informant in front of a fast food restaurant. By acting like a tourist excited to find a Kentucky Fried Chicken, I was able to take this photograph.

This story previously ran in the February 2014 issue of John Eric Home. We have re-printed the feature exactly as it ran in that issue.

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Heirloom-quality vintage rugs sourced for their beauty, quality, and everyday elegance. PASSERINEHOME.COM

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Nantucket Summer… a day in the life BY BRENT TARTAMELLA

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Nantucket is about a feeling. The faraway island, so named by the original inhabitants, the Wampanoags, has an extraordinary beauty, and the pictures only communicate a fraction of the uniqueness… those that know, know. For those of you looking to travel to Nantucket and are curious what makes this sandspit so special, it’s the blend of, well, everything – people, place, architecture, beautiful weather 60 days a year (ha), but really it is all the intangibles. Nantucket has outstanding restaurants, a Relais Chateau hotel, cobblestone lined streets, and the best beaches in the world. While other destinations might have pieces of this tableau, you cannot recreate what is the feeling that overtakes one’s senses when you are here. Perhaps it’s the fact that you must be transported by sea or by air. Could it be the mix of New England Yankee and Quakerism layered on the foundation of the Native Americans? Do those influences come into play in what is the modern-day Nantucket? Is it the energy created at the juncture of planetary meridian lines on which the island sits? Could it be the fact that we must coexist on one 50 sq. miles land mass regardless of our backgrounds, likes/dislikes, who we marry, who we divorce, whether we are a service provider or the recipient of such services or whether we are local or a summer resident? Nantucket is special because of the people. The island attracts fascinating folks from all walks of life, from all parts of the spectrum. Here are titans of industry alongside the most well-traveled, best bartenders in the world! There are moguls, captains (literally), academics, and artists, and they all line up at their favorite coffee shop, donut spot, brewery, and iconic dive bar. Waiting in a line for a morning coffee, you could make small talk with the CEO of the country’s largest business, a college kid who is going to their landscaping job (who was also your bus-person last night), a school teacher who doubles as a camp counselor to make ends meet, a 19-year old summer trust fund resident, or an H2B Visa worker who holds down three jobs with the aim to make as much money as possible in an 18-week season (before going back to school in their Eastern European country). It’s quite a cast of characters. Some polished, some still a little rough, but we all share the common bond that is our love of Nantucket.

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“ ” Nantucket by Mary E. Starbuck

“Just a sandy wind-swept island” What more would you have it be, With a turquoise sky above it, Around it a sapphire sea?

When its dawns are pearl and opal, Its noons are crystal clear, And its sunsets shower down gold dust Till the diamond stars appear. When to those who are born on this island, And to many from over the sea, ‘Tis fairer than all its jewels, What more does it need to be?

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Now a little bit about “Nantucketing” a verb coined by the Nantucket Hotel: An early morning sunrise opens the day. While some are just now going to sleep, others are just starting their day. The first out are the runners, bikers, and wave riders. Soon following them are the landscapers and tradesfolk, and depending on the tide, let us not forget about the early-rising fishing captain. As the morning wears on, the cobblestone streets fill up with those venturing out for a morning cup of coffee and sweet treat. The Downy Flake is best for its homemade sugar donuts, Wicked Island Bakery for their sticky buns (limit of 6 pp). Coffee is subjective. Favorites tend to be from Island Coffee, Roasted, the Handlebar or the Green.

Now in the warmth of the afternoon sun, some are sailing, some are beaching, while others are perfecting their garden, perfecting their tan, learning to Kiteboard, or lunching “at the club”. Downtown is quiet this time of day, unless of course it’s overcast or too windy. If weather is blowing in and bringing overcast skies, many summer visitors and day trippers participate in the leisurely activity of shopping - where one can find unique treasures as well as the classic resort town tee shirt shop. As the sun passes its mid-point, and beachgoers begin to pack up their gear, anglers and surfers may be headed out for an evening “sesh”, while others are readying for dinner or preparing to work the dinner shift, taking an outdoor shower. (These showers are “de rigueur” in this season.)

And dinner? The late dinner crowd, and possibly the younger group, may be trying to squeeze into Cisco Brewery, whereas a constant stream of people will be witnessed picking up their lobster bakes from Sayles or dinner-to-go from Bartlett’s. Afterwards, they will head out for the best sunset beach dinner, other than Galley Beach or Topper’s, of course! For those that washed the salt spray from their skin early, they may be off to experience an incredible culinary delight – be it the So-Cal, whose menu features Baja inspired food and margaritas, or Millie’s, known for their tantalizing flavors. The Proprietors and Nautilus restaurants are superb too. Of course, dinner in the backyard of many a Nantucket home are out of this world. Many pick up some incredible fish from 167 Raw or steaks from the Nantucket

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Fish and Meat market and enjoy a mean game of corn hole while the grill is fired up. Better still is when a dinner guest happens to be an angler and early rising fishing captain who has brought some incredible freshly caught bass! As the moon rises, the lines form…some for a barstool, some for an ice cream (be it the iconic Juice Bar, Jack and Charlie’s, or the ever-awesome Island Kitchen). But do you know who is in line next to you? You’ll see the same people you started your day with. That, my friends, is how the banker, the busboy and the bartender and residents from all walks of life, backgrounds, and languages, create a community of friendship that is hard to explain anywhere else in the world. You say the word Nantucket, and those that know, know. Some say Nantucket is a lifestyle and while they may be right, it is also a state of mind…and one of the most tightly knit communities that exists anywhere. This is what makes this faraway island of Nantucket so coveted, special, and irreplaceable.

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TOP 5 RESORTS IN THE FLORIDA KEYS If you love The Salt Life but also being pampered and spoiled in luxury, stay at one of these top resorts while visiting the Florida Keys. They are scattered across the Keys and are all top-notch. LITTLE PALM ISLAND RESORT & SPA Want to feel like you have escaped to the South Pacific without leaving the Florida Keys? Little Palm Island Resort & Spa is an adults-only, private island oasis on Little Palm Island and redefines luxury resort. 28500 Overseas Highway, Little Torch Key. ISLA BELLA BEACH RESORT The gorgeous design, world-class spa, fine dining, and plentiful amenities set a sophisticated tone at this familyfriendly resort. It has become the standard for modern luxury in the Florida Keys. 1 Knights Key Boulevard, MM 47 Marathon Key. BAKER’S CAY RESORT KEY LARGO Whitewashed and modern Baker’s Cay Resort Key Largo keeps the bar high as the epitome of contemporary island style. As a member of Hilton’s Curio Collection group, the resort does not disappoint in the luxury category. 97000 Overseas Highway, Key Largo. PIER HOUSE RESORT & SPA Although situated in the heart of Key West on Duval Street, this resort is an oasis from the ruckus. This Key West icon made its name in the ‘70s as a hangout for the creative set. Today, it’s a sprawling resort right on the water. 1 Duval Street, Key West. CHEECA LODGE & SPA Cheeca Lodge is home to the longest pier in the Keys with a stretch of sandy beach and three pools, a spa, and plenty of activities to keep guests of all ages content. George H.W. Bush ran a fishing tournament at Cheeca, so it has a longtime following with the well-heeled crowd. 81801 Overseas Hwy, Islamorada Key.

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Florida KEYS

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Beyond the spas, luxury shops, and 200+ golf courses, Scottsdale, Arizona offers the abundant and rather flamboyant expressions of art and culture. From historical sites to art experiences, chef-driven restaurants and exciting entertainment options, Scottsdale is bursting at the seams with the makings of a memorable visit. Here are 10 unique experiences for your next visit: TOUR TALIESIN WEST In 1937, Frank Lloyd Wright, the famous architect, made Scottsdale his winter home, and a large number of buildings in the city were designed by him. Wright’s beloved winter home is now referred to as Taliesin West and is the headquarters of the Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation. It’s open to the public for highly regarded guided tours. STAY AT THE HOTEL VALLEY HO OR DINE AT CAFE ZUZU Scottsdale has been a retreat for celebrities since 1940, when Elizabeth Arden opened Maine Chance Spa, welcoming society mavens, celebrities, and royalty. In the 1950s, Hollywood stars like Zsa Zsa Gabor, Bing Crosby, Robert Wagner and Natalie Wood discovered paparazzi wouldn’t follow them to their Scottsdale getaway, the Hotel Valley Ho. The hotel is Scottsdale’s only historically designated hotel, and it continues to attract celebrities. The hotel’s Cafe Zuzu emulates Arizona’s neighborhood grills of the 1950s, where communities coalesced around hot meals and well-crafted cocktails.

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SCOTTSDALE THE TOP 10 ATTRACTIONS IN

BY NICOLE KOBRINSKY

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WANDER THE SCOTTSDALE MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART A shining example of the city’s creativity and innovation is the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art, or the SMoCA. The museum is one of the country’s leading venues devoted to cutting edge art, regularly hosting some of the country’s leading contemporary artists. EXPERIENCE THE SCOTTSDALE CENTER FOR PERFORMING ARTS At its core, Scottsdale Center for the Performing Arts celebrates the human experience by providing a platform for a range of artistic voices and perspectives. This season is filled with marquee names from Broadway, Hollywood and beyond performing exciting new collaborations and works. You will also find emerging talents from around the globe. The center has done an excellent job of offering a variety of performances including those suitable for introducing young ones to the arts. STROLL ABOUT AND ENJOY THE ART WALK Downtown Scottsdale’s Arts District is home to the country’s longest running artwalk, the Scottsdale ArtWalk. Each Thursday night, the art galleries along Main Street and Marshall Way stay open late for this 40-year tradition. Visitors can walk the path at their own pace, stopping into galleries to see artist demonstrations and enjoy hors d’oeuvres. More than 100 art galleries fill downtown, showcasing everything from American Indian pottery and contemporary sculptures to Russian impressionist paintings. DINE AT THE HOUSE BRASSERIE Not many restaurants are garnished with a white picket fence, a shaded brick patio, and a romantic fireplace. But Old Town Scottsdale’s House Brasserie isn’t just any old restaurant. This family home-turned-restaurant was originally built in 1939, making it the second oldest house in Scottsdale. The ambiance and setting harken back to the Victorian-era and Chef Brandon Jedd has crafted a New American-style menu that offers a contemporary approach on the French technique with a Mediterranean twist.

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DINE AT CAFE MONARCH Imagine not flying to France, but still dining European-villa-style with a customized menu and privacy. There is a reason why Cafe Monarch was voted by Travelocity as the third best restaurant in the U.S. for fine dining and the second most romantic restaurant in the country. ATTEND THE WASTE MANAGEMENT OPEN Each year, the most highly attended tournament on the PGA tour, the Waste Management Phoenix Open, takes place here. The “Greatest Show on Grass” draws more than half a million golf fans, visitors and locals to TPC Scottsdale for the week-long tournament. Nothing compares to the pageantry and spectacle of the event, which even incorporates a bustling nightclub. ATTEND BARRETT JACKSON A premier event for classic car enthusiasts, the annual Scottsdale-based Barrett-Jackson auction draws plenty of attention from the local crowd and out-oftowners. Six days of antique car auctions selling collector cars from all vintages including celebrity-owned cars and motorcycles. All with the excitement of a world-class rock concert. HIKE OR BIKE THE MCDOWELL SONORAN PRESERVE Go for a hike, bike ride, or journey out on horseback at the McDowell Sonoran Preserve. This is 30,000 acres of permanently protected desert habitat that includes more than 120 different trails that can be accessed from various trailhead locations. There are ten in all, including Lost God Wash Trail, a shorter trail with easier terrain that is kid-friendly, and the more challenging Sunrise Trail has amazing scenic views. This young city has found its true identity. With its western flair and modern culture, plus a dynamic combination of history, art, and events, there’s plenty to see and do here for all generations.

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BLACK BOOK INTERNATIONAL FAIRE

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SO, YOU HAVE LANDED IN PARIS. LUCKY YOU! BUT YOU NEED DIRECTIONS OR TICKETS TO RENOWNED SITES OR JUST A PLAIN OLD MAP. WHERE SHOULD YOU HEAD? TO A BRANCH OF THE PARIS TOURIST OFFICE WHERE THEY CAN HELP YOU IN A SNAP. THE PARIS TOURIST OFFICE WAS CREATED IN 1971, AT THE JOINT INITIATIVE OF THE PARIS CITY COUNCIL AND THE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY OF PARIS. IT CARRIES OUT THREE ESSENTIAL MISSIONS: TO WELCOME VISITORS, PROVIDE INFORMATION ABOUT PARIS, AND PROMOTE PARIS AS A WHOLE. THE OFFICE EMPLOYS A MULTILINGUAL STAFF. HERE YOU CAN FIND FREE MAPS AND GUIDEBOOKS AND PURCHASE A PARIS PASSLIB’, THE OFFICIAL CITY PASS, A PARIS MUSEUM PASS AS WELL AS ADVANCE TICKETS TO THE LOUVRE, DISNEYLAND, VERSAILLES, AND MANY OTHERS TOURIST DESTINATIONS. YOU CAN ALSO FIND OUT INFORMATION ON CENTRALIZED TAX REDUCTIONS AND TAXI AND HOTEL BOOKINGS. HÔTEL DE VILLE WELCOME CENTRE This center is open seven days a week from 10am to 6pm (last entry at 5.50pm). Its half-price theatre ticket booth is open from Tuesday to Saturday from 12.30pm to 5.30pm and on Sunday from 12.30pm to 3.45pm. Hôtel de Ville - 29 rue de Rivoli 75004 Paris (Le Marais - 4e Arrondissement). OFFICE DU TOURISME ET DES CONGRÈS DE PARIS - BUREAU GARE DU NORD This center is open Monday through Saturday, 9am to 5pm (last access at 4.50 pm). It is closed on Sundays and public holidays. 18 rue de Dunkerque - 75010 (République - Gares de l’Est et du Nord - 10e Arrondissement). RÉCEPTION DU CARROUSEL DU LOUVRE The Réception is open seven days a week from 11am-7pm (Tuesdays, 12pm-6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli - 75001 (Louvre - 1er Arrondissement). Though not a welcome center, TravelWifi is an important address to note. The company is endorsed by The Paris Tourist Office and offers pocket hotspot sales and rentals. The device will let you enjoy 4G Internet anytime and anywhere in France with up to 10GB per day depending on your destination. It is open Monday through Saturday, from 11am to 7pm and is located at 38 avenue de l’OPéra 75002 Paris.

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FOODIE TASTE OF THE TOWN

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SODA BREAD Soda Bread is a quick bread that does not require any yeast. Instead, all its leavening comes from baking soda and buttermilk. INGREDIENTS 1 and 3/4 cups buttermilk 1 large egg 4 and 1/4 cups all-purpose flour 3 tbsp granulated sugar 1 tsp baking soda 1 tsp salt 5 tbsp unsalted butter, cold and cubed 3/4 cup raisins or dried cranberries (optional) DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Whisk buttermilk egg together. Set aside. Whisk flour, granulated sugar, baking soda, and salt together in a large bowl. Cut in the butter using a pastry cutter, a fork, or your fingers. Mixture will be heavy. Stir in the raisins or dried cranberries. Pour in the buttermilk/egg mixture. Gently fold the dough together until dough it is too stiff to stir. Pour crumbly dough onto a lightly floured work surface. With floured hands, work the dough into a ball as best you can, then knead for about 30 seconds or until all the flour is moistened. If the dough is too sticky, add a little more flour. Place on baking sheet. Using a very sharp knife, score a 1/2-inch-deep X into the top. Bake until the bread is golden brown and center is cooked through, about 45-55 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow bread to cool for 10 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack. Serve warm, at room temperature, or toasted with desired toppings/ spreads.

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FISHERMAN’S PIE INGREDIENTS 2 tbsp unsalted butter 1/2 cup chopped yellow onion 1 cup chopped carrots 1/2 cup frozen peas 1/2 cup whole milk 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp chopped fresh dill 1/2 cup chicken or seafood stock 1 tbsp cornstarch 1 tsp salt 1/4 tsp cracked black pepper 8 oz. cubed Atlantic Haddock 8 oz. Wild Gulf Shrimp 2 ½ cups mashed potatoes (homemade or store-bought) DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 400ºF and place a large baking sheet on bottom rack of oven to catch drips from pie. Lightly grease a 9-inch pie pan with cooking oil. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat and add onions and carrots. Sauté 5-7 minutes. Whisk together milk, stock, Dijon mustard and cornstarch. Add peas, haddock and shrimp to skillet. Pour in milk mixture and bring to a simmer. Add dill, salt and pepper. Cook until sauce is thick. Transfer mixture to prepared pan. Top with mashed potatoes. Smooth evenly. Bake for 20 minutes, until top is browned and filling is bubbly. Broil for the last 5 minutes of baking. Leave at room temperature for 5 minutes. Serve hot topped with additional dill.

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BREAD PUDDING INGREDIENTS 6 slices day-old bread 2 tbsp butter, melted ½ cup raisins (Optional) 4 eggs, beaten 2 cups milk ¾ cup white sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla extract DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Break bread into small pieces into an 8-inch square baking pan. Drizzle melted butter or margarine over bread. If desired, sprinkle with raisins. In a medium mixing bowl, combine eggs, milk, sugar, cinnamon, and vanilla. Beat until well mixed. Pour over bread, and lightly push down with a fork until bread is covered and soaking up the egg mixture. Bake for 45 minutes, or until the top springs back when lightly tapped. Cool.

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TRAVEL TRAVEL TRAVEL TRAVEL TRAVEL BY THOMAS DONNELLY 126

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A 12-Year-Old’s Advice on Traveling I am lucky to have had great travel experiences. Just over the past year, I traveled to New York City for the Thanksgiving Day Parade and to Jamaica for Spring Break. I am happy to share some of my thoughts on what kids like to see and do when traveling… NEW YORK CITY The flight to New York was excellent. Since we flew at night, when we landed at LaGuardia, we went right over CITI Field, home of the New York Mets baseball team. I love baseball and so, for me, it was special. I would say, when traveling with kids, even if it is something little, try to incorporate – if you can – something that they love. The next day was the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade. We were lucky enough to get tickets on the parade route, but that meant getting up early to get in line. Getting up early was hard, but I think it was worth seeing the parade. All the balloons, including Baby Yoda and Snoopy, were right on top of us. It was such a different experience! We did many other things in New York, including seeing a Broadway show – Hamilton. Before, I had never been to a live show, especially not on Broadway. We had great seats right at stage height in the middle of the theater. The show was great. I would recommend to anyone who has not seen Hamilton live to do so – or to any other Broadway show. It was a brand-new experience, and I really liked it. We made sure to go ice skating at Rockefeller Center. It was really cool how people were looking down watching you, and you felt like you were the center of attention. Also located at Rockefeller Center is the Lego store. We had to wait in line, but once we were in, we could see up close some of the huge 3D Lego builds. They had a New York City taxi built out of Lego bricks that you could actually sit in. They also had a large “Tree of Discovery” that was made up of more than 880,000 bricks! Times Square was a must. The Disney Store is in Times Square and has almost every single Disney toy available. We had our picture taken and paid a little extra to have it broadcast on the giant screen above the store in Times Square. That was cool… If you are planning a trip to New York City with kids, my advice is to make sure you visit Times Square and Rockefeller Center. Catching a show would be great too if it’s the right one. What I loved about the trip is that I was able to see things that I love (CITI Field and the Lego store), saw and experienced new things (the Thanksgiving Day Parade and ice-skating at Rockefeller Center) and was able to enjoy walking around the city.

JAMAICA It is not on every trip that you get to go out of the country as a kid, so traveling to Jamaica was cool. However, getting there was a headache. We got to the airport early in the morning, and it seemed like a standard check-in at first glance. We soon realized that the line was barely moving, and it had already been 30 minutes. Our flight was at 6 AM, and as we got closer, we started to panic. When the flight was scheduled to leave, we still weren’t even at the gate for the plane. The airline had delayed the flight 15 minutes to see if they could get us on the flight, but that still didn’t work. So, the flight left, leaving us behind. We were all disappointed, but we managed to get a flight at the same time the next day. If you are planning a short trip to Jamaica (or any other island) with kids, my advice is to make sure you are prepared for a long flight and potential delays. After we finally arrived in Jamaica, I had fun running around on the beach, playing in the water, and collecting seashells. The drinks and food there were really good and tasty. They had sodas in many flavors, pineapple, cream, and orange. The best local soda is TIng and they had a sparkling grapefruit flavor. Don’t ever be afraid to suggest new things to kids. Although we may be unsure and say no, once we try it, we might love it. Since we missed a day due to missing the first flight, we crammed a lot into a day and a half. I went snorkeling in the ocean and saw pretty fish. I collected a lot of cool shells that had some cool patterns on them. There was a lot of marine life on the beach, and there were even starfish in the water. I am looking forward to going back when we have longer. If you are traveling with kids, no matter where you go, try to remember to be patient and flexible. For me there were a lot of new things I got to experience on these two trips, and I am looking forward to being able to help plan our next trip somewhere fun. Hopefully where there’s an aquarium and a pool.

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MIXOLOGY TIPSY TEMPTATIONS

by Charles M. Tappan, Jr.

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“AWAY MESSAGE” Glassware: Chilled Martini Glass Ingredients: 2 oz. Carpano Bianco Vermouth .5 oz. Nonino Grappa .5 oz. Campari Garnish: Orange Twist Combine ingredients over ice in a mixing glass. Stir till the glass frosts, and then strain into a chilled martini class. Garnish, serve and enjoy. A good drink is about having a good time. It is supposed to be full flavored and easy to enjoy, with a refreshing quality that makes a repeat order on top of mind. In essence, it’s just like a good vacation, one that has lots of memories and you want to experience again. This drink will encourage you to open that laptop and set up an “Away” message. The Away Message cocktail is simple and sweet. With only three ingredients, this reverse martini-style beverage is big and bold, however the layers of fruit – bitter, citrusy, sweet, and floral play together like a symphony. The European ingredients are a call to take that vacation far away, maybe on the Mediterranean coast. However, even if you are just hiding at home, this cocktail will help make vacation memories. This summer, make sure to take a break, tell work to relax, put on the “Away Message,” and let them call someone else for a change.

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“GETAWAY” Glassware: Chilled Martini Glass Ingredients: 1.5 oz. Appleton Estate Signature Rum 1.5 oz. Pineapple Juice .75 oz. Allspice Dram Garnish: Pineapple Wedge and Grated Nutmeg (omit nutmeg if allergic) Combine ingredients with ice in a shaker tin. Shake vigorously, strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish, serve, and enjoy! Traveling is about seeing the world, and drinking a great cocktail is about having fun while doing just that. When the time comes to do both, then it is time for a “Getaway.” Spend time with the family, go with friends to the beach, or do some solo travel and take a break for a few days. This lovely shaken sipper is inspired by the far-flung beaches of the tropical Caribbean and meant to taste like a day in the islands. Foremost is its tropical paradise vibe brought out by rum. The beverage itself is one made in the tropics, with layers of fruit, caramel, and spices that could only come from a place with sand and sunshine. The pineapple juice doubles down on refreshment, while the Allspice dram explodes like a steel drum band blazing. A good drink has the ability to transport emotions to somewhere better, and a great vacation gives not just a little rest and respite, but brings a whole new layer of memories. This summer do both, and “Getaway” for a bit.

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“SOMEWHERE ELSE” Glassware: Chilled Martini Glass Ingredients: 2 oz. Junmai Ginjo Sake 1 oz. Roku Japanese Gin 2 oz. Plum Bitters Garnish: Cherry Combine ingredients over ice in a mixing glass. Stir till the glass frosts, and then strain into a chilled martini class. Garnish, serve and enjoy. We all dream of taking that special trip one day; visiting a place that we have always wanted to go but come up with excuses not to. In homage to taking that dream trip, this beverage takes its inspiration from the exoticism of East Asia and the Land of the Rising Sun. Sake is exciting and wide ranging in flavor. The best are crisp, but they can range from dry to sweet, and from floral to fruity. This libation pairs sake with traditional gin. It is an updated version of the martini with an Asian twist. Plum bitters add quintessential flavors that tie the aromatic qualities of the gin and sake together to take them to heights similar to those reached when traveling on a jet. While the ingredients may be reminiscent of Japan, the drink’s taste is made to convey that idea of transporting yourself to that special destination on your bucket list. This summer, dare to travel, and dare to go to that “Somewhere Else” because life is short.

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Healdsburg Destination

BY BOB PENNYPACKER

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I regard travel as an obligation—at least that’s my excuse. Travel gives us the opportunity to be someone else, somewhere else. It broadens the mind and opens the heart. I discovered this obsession early in my youth, and, of course, had the challenge of funding it. I had to find an approach I could afford and would still be enriching. It started with studying abroad in college and continued during my corporate career by being the guy volunteering for those so-called overseas “hardship” assignments. I never understood the “hardship” part. One of the common denominators of the most vibrant places I’ve visited is how all of them are what they are because of outside forces and the resilience of its inhabitants. Travelers help shape what a community is. And we are all travelers. I guess it shouldn’t be a surprise that upon exiting the corporate world, my husband and I would settle in Healdsburg—less than 150 miles from where I grew up. It is a charming small town (Population 11,000) in the middle of Northern California’s Wine Country---a little over an hour north of the Golden Gate Bridge. Both of us had only lived in big cities. Healdsburg may be small, but it definitely has a cool urban vibe. This region has been a destination for over 12,000 years when a band of the Pomo tribe settled here attracted by the beauty of the landscape, the fertile soil and the healing waters. Those characteristics continue to draw people to Healdsburg, especially since they figured out how to turn the water into wine.

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Sir Francis Drake passed by Northern California in 1579 and terrorized the indigenous peoples for a while. He planted a big British flag and claimed California for England. Then he left. The Spanish made it this far North by 1776 and began colonization. In 1810, about the time The Mexicans began fighting their 11-year long war of independence, the Russians built a settlement known as Fort Ross, along the Sonoma coast. It was more of a commercial venture focused on trapping and trading and a joint venture between Russians and Americans. The location was chosen for being beyond the influence of the Spanish in San Francisco. There was too much going on further south at the time for Mexico and Spain to worry about the Sonoma Coast. After 1821, an Independent Mexico encouraged settlement of Alta California through land grants, and among the most coveted of those were in Sonoma 136

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County. Emigrating Americans had become Mexican citizens, thus eligible for those grants. One of the biggest grants, The Sotoyome Ranch (at over 48,000 acres) went to sea captain Henry Delano Fitch in 1841. He hired Cyrus Alexander to manage it and eventually transferred ownership of the eastern portion of the Rancho. Alexander Valley remains one of the most prestigious viticulture areas in the region. Meanwhile by 1842, the Russians pulled out of the settlement on the Sonoma coast when other trading arrangements eliminated the need for Fort Ross. With the election of President James Polk in 1844, America developed ambitious expansion plans. The US offered to buy from Mexico the land north of the Rio Grande River, but the offer was rejected. A series of events along the border ultimately lead to the Mexican American War. As part of the treaty ending the war in 1848, the US paid

Mexico $15,000,000 for the same land. Today, that might get you a reasonably nice penthouse in Downtown San Francisco. 1848 was also the year gold was discovered in California, and thus began the largest migration in US history. Over 300,000 people flooded into California—the majority were Americans, but 30,000 were from France alone. Within 7 years, San Francisco grew from a settlement of 200 to a city of 36,000. Among the most successful of the businesses were those that sold supplies to gold prospectors. Meanwhile, some of the newcomers were a bit more forward thinking. They had come to California for the gold, and instead discovered its real estate. The new state government of California honored the Mexican land grants, but Cyrus Alexander’s claim for the Alexander Valley was denied since he hadn’t been the direct recipient. The rancho was auc-

tioned off, and Harmon Heald, an enterprising businessman from Ohio bought 100 acres along the banks of the Russian River, laid out a town around a Spanish style plaza, and began selling lots. Thus, Healdsburg was founded. It was primarily an agriculture-based economy, with Healdsburg strategically located at the juncture of the Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River Valleys. The tourists were still drawn to the curative waters of the nearby Geysers and Healdsburg would meet their lodging needs. The first three buildings along the plaza’s west side were hotels. As often happens, tourists came for a visit, then some simply took up permanent residence when they discovered the gentle way of life here. Among them was Roderick Matheson, a Scotsman who came during the gold rush, settled in San Francisco but then opted for the Healdsburg life in 1856. He built a beautiful mansion for his family and then was invited to Lincoln’s inauguration. While in Washington, he got sucked up by the drumbeat of war, became a colonel in the Union Army and died in battle in 1862. During his short time in Healdsburg, he positively impacted the development of the settlement. His casket was returned to Healdsburg where he was given a hero’s burial in the local Oak Mound Cemetery. Meanwhile, disillusioned gold prospectors discovered the area and Healdsburg continued its growth. Healdsburg finally incorporated in 1867. Streets were given the names commemorating the times—Lincoln, Grant, Sherman, Fitch and Matheson among them. The Northwest and Pacific Railway came in 1871. With that, more tourists and future residents. By 1886, Healdsburg had 2,500 residents and had built an ambitious new city hall adopting a neo-Romanesque style that was all the rage during the Second Industrial Revolution. New York was getting its first skyscrapers; Healdsburg had its massive City Hall. Tourism and urban expansion continued with the advent of the automobile and the completion of the Golden Gate Bridge, slowing a bit during prohibition, the depression and World Wars I and II. Post WWII growth was significant, forcing the city’s adoption of its first zoning code. National retail brands found a reason to set up shop here and Purity Grocery Stores engaged renowned Chicago architect Harry Weese to design the city’s first supermarket. One of the goals of the new zoning code was to preserve the walkability of the central area. That has been maintained over the years and is one of the reasons Healdsburg is cherished by both visitors and residents alike. In the real estate community, we often refer to the residences downtown as Stumble Homes. After an evening of five star dining, you don’t even need an Uber to get home. The 1960s were kind of rough on the town. That was when the freeway bypass was completed. Suddenly it was easy to drive 12 miles to shop at the new malls in nearby towns. Local retail withered. Vacancy rates on the beloved plaza rose to over 40%. It was the story of urban blight that was spreading

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across America, only on a small scale. In 1964, the old city hall was demolished and replaced with a sleek mid-century modern structure, in the hope of modernizing the plaza. That didn’t quite cut it. Then in the mid-1970s, the chamber of commerce and other concerned citizens got together to figure out a different means of revitalizing the town. They realized what Healdsburg had going for it since its founding was both wine and tourism. It was time for those two industries to get together. The Spaniards had begun planting vineyards shortly after their arrival. Cultivation continued after statehood, and the coming of the railroad had turned it into an industry which continued to grow. The thirteen years of prohibition slowed it down a bit, but one year after its end, wine tourism began in earnest at the Italian Swiss Colony in nearby Asti. The opportunity presented itself to make Healdsburg the center of that action. Hospitality and the wine industry began a collaboration like no other. Tasting rooms opened on the plaza, which brought the tourists, which led to new restaurants and B&Bs, and an assortment of art galleries and antique shops. Of course, it didn’t happen overnight. Healdsburg does things very deliberately because we want to get it right. Healdsburg is all about providing an experience you can’t get anywhere else. By the year 2000, change had arrived in earnest. The west side of the plaza was graced by the newly constructed Hotel Healdsburg on the same site of Healdsburg’s original hotels. Its success spawned the development of other boutique hotels. What had been a bed-and-breakfast town soon had over 1,400 hotel rooms. And the demand continues to rise. Most recently, at the north end of town, Montage resorts has opened in Healdsburg, adding 130 rooms. Next year, a new 53 room hotel will be opened by Replay Resorts in the Mill District at the South end of town. Even before becoming such a destination, Healdsburg has had a vibrant food culture. Farm to table has been the way of life here from the beginning. When we first moved here, we soon discovered that neighborhood potlucks seemed almost like competitive events! It was just that everybody wanted to share their best. And that is the overarching spirit of the community. Life here is a bit slower than in cities which gives us the time to figure out what matters. We are blessed with talented home grown chefs as well as transplanted celebrity chefs who demonstrate their skills across the more than 35 restaurants in town. Each one of those chefs is helping all the others become even better. We eat well here! Eventually one discovers that that shared commitment to excellence doesn’t stop with food and wine. The town boasts a vibrant art scene as well. Among other venues, the Paul Mahder Gallery is the largest gallery north of Los Angeles and features the best of local artists as well as those from around the world.

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And then there is the architecture in Healdsburg---starting with that Matheson mansion and massive original city hall. There is a civic pride here that keeps the town on the forefront of architectural innovation whether that be Harry Weese’s late 40s cutting edge supermarket, to the Olson Kundig’s design for the Mill District currently under construction. Outside forces tested the community’s resilience in 2017. It had been almost 55 years since a wildfire had swept through Sonoma County, and in October, the entire population was caught off guard. The devastation was heartbreaking, and it took a good three months for things to feel as though they were back to normal—at least for those who hadn’t suffered losses. Healdsburg was lucky and the entire town was untouched. It seems, among other things, those vineyards are a very effective firebreak. That fire, though, reshaped our thinking. With climate change, fires just became part of life and over the last five years, becoming fire wise is the new normal. And it is working. We had to evacuate in 2019, and again, Healdsburg was unscathed. We returned to town on a Thursday and by the weekend, everything was back to normal. It has certainly not dampened any enthusiasm for the town. One hundred fifty-five years after its incorporation, Healdsburg remains a vibrant small town doing its best to balance the needs of both residents and tourists as well as the day-to-day challenges facing any community. For example, things like a member of the Russian Duma demanding the return of Fort Ross. Other issues include the continual surge in housing prices further impacted by the pandemic. In the last three years, though, about 150 affordable units have been built or are in process. It would be great if one day, all the people who work here could afford to live here. As a twenty-year resident I welcome the tourists with open arms, for I have seen how they enrich the town’s fabric and may even become future neighbors. For me, it’s a pleasure walking around town and hearing a multitude of languages being spoken. Yes, this is tiny Healdsburg and the world has taken notice.

INC.

MONEY DOESN’T HAVE TO BE COMPLICATED. Are you confused by most financial advice? If so, you’re not alone.

Marc S. Schliefer, CFP® | Equity Planning Inc. 7910 Woodmont Avenue | Suite 900 | Bethesda | MD 20814 Phone: 301-652-8702 | Fax: 301-652-9066 www.equityplanning.com | marcs@equityplanning.com | www.linkedin.com/in/marcschliefer/ Securities offered through Cetera Advisor Networks LLC, Member FINRA/SIPC. Investment advisory services offered through CWM, LLC, an SEC Registered Investment Advisor. Cetera Advisor Networks LLC is under separate ownership from any other named entity. 139

HEALTH & WELLNESS YOUR BEST SELF

by Hannah Jenner 140

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If one thing immediately springs to mind when you think of summer, it’s sunshine! Maybe you are traveling to seek the warm sun or are lucky enough to live in a place where long sunny summer days are guaranteed. Getting outside to soak up some rays is one of the most uplifting aspects of this season. Natural daylight and sunshine have many health benefits. Of course, it goes without saying that taking proper precautions to stay safe in the sun is extremely important. Whether you are getting ready for that summer vacation or setting up the lounge chairs in your backyard, here is a little reminder about the benefits of getting sun safely: •

Studies have shown that even just one hour of natural light in the morning can lead to improved sleep.

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Sunshine can regulate circadian rhythm by helping the body manage melatonin production.

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Fifteen minutes of sun exposure (think being outside rather than lying directly in the sun seeking a tan) if you are fair skinned, or up to 30 minutes if you have darker skin will allow the body to make its own Vitamin D. Vitamin D is essential as it helps the body to absorb calcium from the intestines. (We can also get Vitamin D from foods such as salmon, tuna, mackerel and egg yolks, but most of us do not eat enough of these foods to ingest the required amount.)

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The serotonin boost we get from being in the sun can improve mood, ease depression, boost energy and help us to feel generally more positive and calmer. Coupled with an activity such as walking, sunshine is a great way to reduce stress.

Staying safe in the sun is of course extremely important. Always remember to wear sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher that is broad spectrum or UVA protection), sunglasses and a wide brimmed hat. Limit exposure during the hours of 10am to 2pm and remember if your shadow is short, it is time to seek shade. Consider adding electrolytes to your water and aim to drink 8-10 cups per day or more if you are doing any kind of exercise or physical labor. Drinking water regularly is far more effective than trying to consume large amounts once you become aware of thirst. Consider making your own popsicles by blending fresh or frozen berries and water. Food choices can also play a role in helping to protect you from the harmful effects of the sun. The pigments in foods such as tomatoes, carrots and peppers can fight back against sun damage while fruits and vegetables with high levels of antioxidants like pomegranates can help with healing. Vitamin C and Vitamin E work well together to help repair cellular damage from UV rays. In conclusion, everything in moderation! Enjoy your time in the sun with proper precautions and make the most of the warm summer months to get active outside.

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THE TOP 5 ATTRACTIONS IN YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK America’s oldest national park is an amazing site to behold. THE GRAND CANYON OF YELLOWSTONE Formed over thousands of years of erosion caused by hydrothermal activity, water and other natural forces, the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone stretches approximately 20 miles. The canyon is 1,000 feet deep with multiple falls that cascade down the Yellowstone River, including Upper Falls and Lower Falls. THE MIDWAY GEYSER BASIN’S GRAND PRISMATIC SPRING The Spring is one of the largest hot springs in the world, but what makes it truly remarkable is its rainbow waters – while the center of the pool is cerulean blue, the deep reds and greens, bright yellows and fiery oranges encircling the edges are not. HAYDEN VALLEY This valley is the best place to catch glimpses of Yellowstone’s amazing wildlife. This lush valley north of Yellowstone Lake is a gathering place for bison, elk, coyotes, and grizzly bears and is home to the largest rut of free roaming bison in the world. YELLOWSTONE LAKE Yellowstone Lake is the park’s largest body of water. It also has bragging rights to being the largest high elevation lake above 7,000 feet in North America. The lake is 20 miles long, 14 miles wide and features 141 miles of shoreline. Although you can’t swim in the lake, you can admire the scenery by hiking one of numerous trails in the area. OLD FAITHFUL Although not one of the most beautiful or interesting areas of the park, it is a must-see for every visitor to the park. This world-renowned geyser’s eruptions are inspiring, averaging around 130 feet high, and most importantly frequent and reliable. As such, Old Faithful lives up to its name, erupting between 30 to 110 minutes.

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Yellowstone National Park

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SNAPSHOT Ka ua’i

The beauty of the Hawai’ian Islands is unsurmountable. Pristine beaches, volcanoes that provide a stunning backdrop for those passing by, deep and lush tropical vegetation. Perhaps the most beautiful island in the chain is Kaua’i. John Eric Home sat down with Andrea Healey, a resident of this paradise, who shared her views on this remarkable place to call home.

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JEH: How would you describe living on Kaua’ii? AH: Healthy and peaceful, like being in an oasis bubble. Kaua’i is a special place and the most authentic island among all the Hawai’ian islands. It has remained not as developed compared to the others. Values are emphasized on self-care, workout, good nutrition, quality time with friends and family. As I am a workaholic, this environment is a good reminder and balance for me.

JEH: So many people daydream of moving to an island paradise. What would you say to those readers who have always thought of moving to Hawai’i and Kaua’i specifically? AH: I would say that life is short, so waste no time on making that dream come true. Whether it is part-time or full-time. Despite the reality of work and chores, living on Kaua’i feels like being on permanent vacation. It’s almost stress-free. I am grateful every day for this life.

JEH: How did you find yourself living on the island? AH: I took a trip to Kaua’i 12 years ago to rejuvenate myself, and I found love. He was already living on Kaua’i for many years but like myself was not from here. We got married six months later. I took a leap of faith and one year later moved permanently to start my new life on Kaua’i with my new husband. Being a French Canadian, I really love where I am from, and I did not want to move. But my husband who had been living on Kaua’i did not want to leave the island – who could blame him, right? – so I chose to move for him, despite my poor English then. Ha! It took me a little adaptation period, but now there is nowhere else I’d rather be. Now we have a 7-year old son, a dog, and our dream home. Dreams really do come true!

JEH: You are a real estate broker, what can you tell us about the current real estate market on the island? AH: It is still hot despite the interest rates going up because of the lack of standing inventory and the remaining high demand. Kaua’i was, is and will always be a desirable place to live or visit. While more and more people decide to work remotely, they decide: Why not do it from a beautiful place? And in terms of second-home or investment property, short-term and long-term rentals are also in big demand here. I think that within this year, prices might settle, but not go down because of the high desirability compared to other markets where it may go down a little bit.

JEH: What is your absolute favorite aspect of living on Kaua’i? AH: The breathtaking views. Everywhere you look, at all times, no matter the weather, it’s beautiful. I never cease to be impressed. Kaua’i is very biodiverse. You drive only 30 minutes to find a new landscape and temperature. For example, the North Shore is more green and lush because it tends to rain a bit more, but the South Shore is dryer and sunnier and you can see cactus. The West side has the beautiful Waimea Canyon where it’s cooler. Without traffic, you can actually drive the entire island in 3 hours. JEH: What is your least favorite aspect of living on Kaua’i? AH: The pace of the island and the traveling distance to the Mainland or other countries. Even though I appreciate how relaxed it is here, it can be frustrating when you are trying to do business or get things done. Island time is a real thing! Kaua’i is an island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, so traveling takes longer and can be expensive. JEH: Can you please tell us about one or two of Kaua’i’s hidden treasures? AH: Kaua’i is full of hidden treasures! Even after living here for 12 years, I’m still exploring and discovering, so it’s hard for me to narrow it down to only two. My personal favorites are the Shipwreck Hiking Trail and Anini Beach. But, if I tell you more, they won’t be hidden treasures anymore! Ha!

JEH: What was it like to buy your own dream home on the island? AH: The way I got my dream home in this robust market… it’s an interesting story. I saw it, felt in love with it, and sent a video to my client about it. Yes, I was representing a client at the time. They loved it too, we made an offer, and they got it. I put a backup offer in contingent on selling the house that we were living in at the time. The next day my clients called to cancel the escrow because they decided that they wanted something else, and my backup was accepted. I got my house in escrow within a week and closed on the other one in 40 days. We never thought we’d move, especially in this market. I guess it was meant to be, and we made it happen. We moved 10 minutes away but could not be happier with our new home. JEH: If someone is coming as a visitor, what are the top three sites or activities that they must see or do? AH: The first would be to visit the North Shore - Hanalei Bay and Hanakapia – and hike to the waterfall. The second would be to visit the West Side. There you can hike the Waimea canyons and beach and relax at Polihale state park. The third would be to bike down the Royal Coconut Coast bike path in Kapaa. For more ideas, you can check out my To Do on Kaua’i list. (https://andreahealey.oceanfrontsir.

com/To-Do)

JEH: Can you share with us two stories about life on Kaua’i – (one that our readers would not expect)? AH: Coming from the city of Montreal, Quebec, I used to

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eat later. Between 7-8pm – you know the European style. When I moved to Kaua’i, I quickly realized that the restaurants’ kitchens close around 8-9pm max. The Kaua’i lifestyle is a daytime life. People go to bed early and wake up early to enjoy the beautiful sun. It’s definitely not an island for nightlife. Also, Chickens/roosters on the loose became a tourist attraction after Hurricane Iniki (1994) freed them from their cages. They are pretty, but crow at any time of the day, not just in the morning. And if you are in their way and their babies are around, they will chase you. I’m speaking from experience! It happened while I was showing a property. I got spooked! JEH: Are there any other facets of Kaua’i that you feel our readers would be interested in knowing? AH: There are so many interesting tidbits! There is more sand on Kaua’i than on all the Hawaiian Islands combined. The spacious green space and many

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beaches allow people to have privacy and not feeling too crowded. That was incredible during Covid. Without the tourism, residents had so much space to play around. It felt empty. If you are creative and hard-working, Kaua’i is a place full of opportunities. There is always room for new businesses that can support tourism but also local residents. One more – Kaua’i used to be called Monk Island because there used to be more men than women. It’s gotten better over time, but it’s definitely not the best island when you are single and looking to date. It’s more a couple or family island. Most single people are transient or are here to focus on themselves and not looking to date.

TracyMorrisDesign.com

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MONEY & FINANCE MONEY SENSE

Historical Mortgage Rates from The 1970s To 2021: Averages And Trends, KEVIN GRAHAM Historical Mortgage Rates from The 1970s To 2021Averages And Trends, KEVIN GRAHAM Historical CD interest rates: 1984-2022, Libby Wells

WRITTEN BY MARC S. SCHLIEFER, CFP®️RICP®️ WEALTH ADVISOR AND CEO

DEALING WITH

I N F L AT I O N A N D YO U R M O N E Y

For the past 40 years, the inflation rate has been low and has not really been a big concern for most people. Mortgage rates have been below 5% for the past 12 years . Over the last 4 years the rates were 4% or lower, while some people received rates in the low 2 percent range. Those days are probably gone for now. A rate of 5% is a shock – when only a year ago it was 2 to 3% -- and is tough getting used to. We are now assuming that there will not be a lot of refinancing going on in the next few years. Most mortgages will be for purchases and for people that need to borrow money to buy a home or leverage their home equity to repair their homes. If you flash back to 1981 when the average mortgage rate according to Freddie Mac data was 16.63% , the current 5% mortgaged rates seem not so bad. Today, people cannot imagine paying that type of high interest rate. However, the big difference is that you could buy a very nice home in 1981 for $200,000 and now the price is many more times that. The overall cost of home ownership is changing because of higher principal and interest costs due to higher interest rates. In addition to the higher rates, at some point the fixed income and interest of CDs and money market funds will eventually rise. Now the interest rates are below 1%. Most are at .1 to .5%. As interest rates increase, the interest rates that you get from bank savings will increase again. In the year 2000 it was possible to get 5% CD rates; money market rates were not much lower than that. In fact, many retired people used to live off the interest rates paid from their money markets and CD’s. Over the last 20 years, it has been impossible to do that since the rates have been so low. Potentially, we may see that reality again. Currently, you would be lucky to get a 1% CD rate for one year and, with inflation over 8.5%, you would lose 7.5% by trying to be safe with your money. This is not a good strategy in this environment. If rates go up, and inflation is below the interest rate, that equation gets a little bit better. The third factor to deal with is the taxes on the interest paid. The goal is to at least try to keep up with inflation, if possible. Above only CDs and money market accounts were discussed. Now, it’s bonds. There are several types of bonds and many of them have similar characteristics. There are corporate bonds, US Government Bonds, and state

and county municipal bonds. There are other variations of bonds, but these are the main categories. In general, municipal bonds pay tax free interest and corporate bonds pay taxable interest. They are both rated by their financial stability. The more highly rated, the lower the interest that they pay. More risky rated bonds pay higher interest rates. This article is about inflation and interest rates, so the bond information will be limed to that. The bonds that were issued over the past 20 years had low interest rates. As bond interest rates go up with inflation, and with the Fed raising the discount rate, the value of older bonds with lower interest rates will drop in value if they are not held to maturity. The reason is based on the income that they generate. If you have a $100,000 bond paying 3%, that is generating $3000 per year. If the new bonds pay 4%, a $100,000 bond generates $4000 in interest per year. If you needed to sell your 3% bond in a 4% environment, you would get less than the face value depending on how much time is left on the bond. The moral of the story is that lower interest rate bonds tend to go down in value in rising interest rate markets. These are some of the things that will be going on as inflation and higher interest rates become part of the new landscape. If you need any help navigating through your personal finances, please feel free to email me at marcs@ equityplanning.com and I will be happy to answer your questions.

Equity Planning Inc. 7910 Woodmont Ave., Suite 900, Bethesda, MD 20814 Securities offered through Cetera Advisor Networks LLC, Member FINRA/SIPC. Investment advisory services offered through CWM, LLC, an SEC Registered Investment Advisor. Cetera Advisor Networks LLC is under separate ownership from any other named entity. This piece is not intended to provide specific legal, tax, or other professional advice. For a comprehensive review of your personal situation, always consult with a tax or legal advisor. Neither Cetera Advisor Networks LLC nor any of its representatives may give legal or tax advice.

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The Islands of Tahiti are a mythical destination. The mere mention of them calls to mind visions of an idyllic island paradise. One that is secluded, tropical and lush. One of spending lazy days on the beach, consuming delicious tropical foods and drinks, and a slowing down to live a more peaceful lifestyle. And it is just that. But unpacking the myth that is Tahiti is akin to opening a beautiful Russian doll… Opening the first doll – when most say Tahiti, they are referring to Tahiti Island, which is the largest and main island of the Society Islands. Opening the second doll – the Society Islands is an archipelago of the Islands of Tahiti. Now comes the third – the Islands of Tahiti create French Polynesia. And here is the fourth – French Polynesia sits in the same neighborhood as the Cook Islands and the Pitcairn Islands in the South Pacific. You get the idea… Many visitors to French Polynesia opt for staying on the main island – Tahiti – or its famous sister – Bora Bora – but there are many amazing places to indulge your beachcombing dreams throughout the Islands of Tahiti. And while the vibe is generally the same, each of the Tahitian islands are just a bit different. (And now comes the cascade of the opening of the remaining dolls when speaking of the different archipelagos). SOCIETY ISLANDS The Society Islands include the country’s main and largest island, Tahiti, her stunning sister island, Moorea, Marlon Brando’s Tetiaroa paradise atoll, Bora Bora, and multiple other world-class islands in between. Papeete is the capital of the Island of Tahiti. Once a sleepy port town, its streets hum with cars, motorized scooters and colorful buses known as “le truck.” Shops overflow with clothing, jewelry, locally made handcrafts, and tourist trinkets. Restaurants and sidewalk cafes serve Tahitian, French and Asian cuisine. A trip to Tahiti is never complete without a visit to Le Marché, Papeete’s popular open-air market. The first floor of this lively marketplace is dedicated to selling beautiful plants and flowers, tropical fruit, vegetables, vanilla and brilliantly colored, freshly caught fish. The second floor is abundant with authentic souvenirs, offering everything from genuine Marquesan woodcarvings to colorful Tahitian pareos.

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Leaving the center, lush foothills emerge as a background. Waterfalls cascade, bougainvillea bloom, and the beach beckons. Tahiti’s iconic velvety black beaches surround Polynesia’s two highest peaks and lead to popping pink coral reefs. Azure waters lap the sand as sunbathers gently nap in hammocks hung from palm trees. It’s all that you imagine and more. No one can forget perhaps the most famous of the Society Islands, Bora Bora. Known for its blue lagoon, this island is a place of remarkable beauty. Its magic is understood immediately upon arrival. The lagoon itself is an unbelievable palette of blue, sapphire and turquoise. Underneath its surface, immense coral formations teem with a variety of brightly colored fish. Adding to this dramatic setting is the

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iconic Mount Otemanu, which is the crown jewel of the island, rising sharply from the lagoon’s center. There is only one navigable pass in this vast lagoon, meaning the calm waters, intricate coral reefs and vibrant marine life remain pristine and protected. Known for its overwater bungalows, the luxurious resorts provide the perfect setting for their guests to enjoy the countless blue hues of the island’s infamous lagoon. Bora Bora is quite possibly the most breathtaking place in the world. This island induces a sense of calm and peace. It is impossible not to relax in its atmosphere. TUAMOTU ISLANDS Though not nearly as famous as the Society Islands, the Tuamotu Islands consist of 77 atolls spread over 930 miles.

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These islands form the largest chain on earth. Coconut plantations cover the islet of the coral barrier reef. The beauty of the lagoons, unique underwater world, and white sand beaches make the Tuamotu a unique group of islands. One of the world’s best destinations for scuba diving, the 240 islets of Rangiroa, string together in the ocean, encircling a deep lagoon. The beautiful loop is surrounded by two different species of ocean – the Moana-tea (Peaceful Ocean) which defines the lagoon, and the Moana-uri (Wild Ocean) where whales, manta rays, dolphins, and sharks entertain in a show that is remembered for a lifetime. On land, the main villages of Avatoru and Tiputa offer visitors a unique look at the South Pacific. Along the few roads that exist, you’ll encounter coral churches, craft centers, local restaurants, and a few shops operated by locals. Wine lovers can also enjoy wine tasting at the Dominique Auroy Estate nestled within a coconut grove, which produces three grape varieties. Jewelry lovers will appreciate the black pearl farms, which dot the lagoon. A visit to Rangiroa has it all. GAMBIER ISLANDS Located nearly 1,000 miles southeast of Tahiti, this archipelago is the most remote and the least populated of French Polynesia. Only around 1,000 people live here, and the archipelago is created by 14 islands, the largest being Mangareva. Polynesian mythology tells of Mangareva being lifted from the ocean floor by the demi-god Maui. The mountains of Mangareva rise over the surrounding islands and lagoon like a great cathedral. Here people live a traditional Polynesian lifestyle. These islands are the important supply source for the Tahitian cultured pearl industry. Along with the pearl farms and tours of the island by road or boat, travelers can also explore the surprising number of surviving churches, convents, watchtowers, and schools from the 1800s. Some structures are still in use such as St. Michel of Rikitea Church where the altar is inlaid with iridescent mother-of-pearl shell. Mangareva is as traditionally Polynesian as it gets. MARQUESAS ISLANDS If you want to see breathtaking high cliffs, volcanic peaks, amazing black sand beaches, gorgeous bays, and lush rainforests where thousands of artifacts lie and wild horses, goats, and boars roam – the Marquesas Islands are for you. Located 932 miles from Papeete, they offer the traveler a trip of a lifetime. Home to marine life, the Marquesas Islands offer world-class scuba diving for visitors seeking a look at the wildlife. These are also the islands that Herman Melville and Paul Gaugin chose to live on to spark their creativity.

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Herman Melville wrote one of his most famous novels – Typee – in 1846 after being influenced by his adventures in the Taipivai Valley. The novel tells the story of a sailor wandering an uninhabited island, fearful of cannibals, until he is ultimately discovered by the Taipi clan. The clan surprisingly welcomes him with open arms, and he is the first European to come into contact with this secluded community on this remote island in the Pacific Ocean. Herman Melville was the sailor, and he returned from French Polynesia to tell his story. Visitors to the islands of the Marquesas can follow in the footsteps of Melville, and see the numerous artifacts encapsulated in the archipelago’s rich back roads, as if time stood still. Famously, in the 1900’s, artist Paul Gauguin went to the Marquesan Island of Hiva Oa in search of solitude and inner peace. Visitors can walk in his footsteps, see the replica of Gauguin’s master painting “Maison du Jouir” and visit the small museum dedicated to the painter and his home. Interested visitors can also visit his grave located nearby in the Calvaire Cemetery. While he lived in the Marquesas Islands, Gauguin painted some of his most famous artwork, sourcing his inspiration from the islanders’ everyday life. The Marquesas will spark your imagination. AUSTRAL ISLANDS As their name implies, the Austral islands, located south of the island of Tahiti, on the Tropic of Capricorn, represent the southernmost boundary of French Polynesia. The climate is 158

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cooler than other Tahitian Islands & the ecology of these selfsufficient islands make them a charming world apart. The archipelago is made of seven islands, five of which are inhabited and four of which are accessible by air. An untouched and mysterious land where white sand beaches clash with the intense blue of the lagoons, the Australs are off the beaten track, offering a memorable and unique experience in The Islands of Tahiti. These islands have unimaginable landscapes. From sheer mountains to valleys and high plains featuring the Austral Islands famous farming activities. Quite a few archeological remnants hide on each island, bearing witness to a wellorganized pre-European community. The cliffs and caves of the Austral Islands are places of legends in French Polynesia. These areas used to be old burial grounds but are now a place to watch humpback whales frolic in the waters just offshore. The whales come to the Austral Islands from August to October each year to give birth. These contrasting sceneries blend well with the friendliness of the inhabitants. Visit colorful, picturesque villages to discover the handiwork of islanders who mainly live off their artwork. Also enjoy watching fishermen, farmers, and basket weavers at work. You’re not likely to leave without a hat or woven basket to remind you of your magical time in the Austral Islands. The Austral Islands offer a rare opportunity to discover The Islands of Tahiti in a different light.

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TOP 5 ROOFTOP BARS IN MELBOURNE A rooftop bar is a splendid place to imbibe a cocktail, and Melbourne Australia has so many to choose from. If you travel Down Under, make sure to stop by one of these locales and grab a drink (alcoholic or non-alcoholic, your preference!) ROOFTOP BAR Can’t forget the name here – it literally is what it is. The Rooftop Bar has become a Melbourne institution and favorite location to enjoy a drink. Set on the seventh story of Curtin House, it provides spectacular views of the skyline. Level 7, 252 Swanston Street, Melbourne. THE QT You don’t have to be a guest at the QT Melbourne to experience its lavish environment. Just head to its rooftop bar any night of the week to take in this exciting venue and its fantastic views across inner-city Melbourne. 11/133 Russell Street, Melbourne. MADAME BRUSSELS This unique spot – with its AstroTurf and old-fashioned garden furniture – is quirky. Its terrace boasts a great view of Melbourne that can be enjoyed while sipping on your favorite libation. 59 Bourke Street, Melbourne. GOLDILOCKS ROOFTOP BAR Leave the bustle of the Melbourne CBD behind and enter a fairytale venue that focuses on local craft wine and beer, with a touch of the weird and wonderful. If you’re in the mood for a cocktail, there’s a range of Goldilocks-inspired options, including the Baby Bear, Into the Forest, and Broken Chair. Level 4, 264 Swanston Street, Melbourne CBD. CAPTAIN BAXTER Though outside of Melbourne, it’s worth the trip. This beach bar and restaurant takes inspiration from 1920 beach bungalows and has a fully retractable roof to bring the outdoors in. It also keeps the summer vibes going all year long with the rooftop deck. The bar is the perfect place to enjoy panoramic views of the seaside with a cocktail in hand. St. Kilda Sea Baths, 10/ 10-18 Jacka Boulevard, St Kilda.

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SNAPSHOT Ne w Ze a l a n d

Sure, it takes a long time to travel there, but New Zealand is one of the most breathtaking countries on Earth and definitely worth the trip. John Eric Home spoke with Meg Szulinski, an American expat who now lives at the bottom of the world, who shared her life and thoughts on this island nation.

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JEH: As an expat living in New Zealand, what do you find most intriguing about the country? MS: Being the home of bungee jumping, New Zealand has gained a reputation as an extreme adventure destination. Yet, they are also famous for their “Great Walks.” New Zealanders take walking to a whole new level. No matter where you are in the country, you are always close to amazing outdoor hikes for every ability and skill set. Literally getting out and seeing the country continues to intrigue me. JEH: What was the easiest (aside from language) aspect for you to grip? MS: New Zealand is an unbelievably safe country. With the possible exception of Auckland (it’s the largest city in the country), New Zealanders are known to leave their doors unlocked at night when they go sleep. Now, I don’t know if I’d go that far myself, but I do feel incredibly safe here. I never worry when my children are out and about. JEH: What was the most challenging aspect to overcome? MS: Driving on the “wrong side of the road!” I’d never driven on the left side of the road. Tourists have a terrible reputation in New Zealand for always causing road accidents. I was terrified of creating an international incident. JEH: Can you speak a little on the culture of New Zealand? MS: I would describe NZ as having three distinct cultures: the Māori (mauri), Pakahi (pa:kəhi), and Kiwi. The Māori is often the obvious cultural draw to NZ. This group of Pacifica arrived and colonized NZ before the Europeans arrived. Theirs is a more spiritual connection to the land and a deeper link to the Pacific Island traditions. The AngloEuropean settlers that came later are known locally today as Pakahi. The phrase refers to those specifically with strong Scottish and British roots. Finally, Kiwis are a blend of both Maori and Pakahi. It’s the unique blending of both histories to create their own new culture over time that exists today. JEH: What do you like best about the country? MS: New Zealanders have a strong sense of fairness. Corruption is not tolerated at all. It’s no surprise that the longest running NZ tv show (first aired in 1977) is called “Fair Go”, which focuses on calling to account NZ companies when they haven’t behaved in a responsible manner. This really speaks to the heart of New Zealanders. Afterall, it was the first country in the world to give women the right to vote. Fairness is ingrained in this country’s identity.

JEH: If a visitor came to New Zealand, what would be the top three sites or activities that they should see or do? MS: 1. In Wellington you can’t miss Te Papa, the National Museum of New Zealand. It does an amazing job of encapsulating the history of this country, combined with art and culture. It’s like all of the Smithsonians thrown into one. It’s amazing! 2.Vistit the Fiordlands on the South Island. Skip Milford Sound and head to Doubtful Sound instead. Everyone goes to Milford. Its overrun with boats and tourists. Doubtful Sound has limited access which makes it less crowded but also much more relaxing. You see nature more up close in Doubtful Sound. 3.Take a bike / winery tour through Central Otago. It’s the best way to kill two birds with one stone. Otago is one of the many wine regions of NZ, boasting world-class Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. Bike tours give you the opportunity to get off the beaten track and experience some amazing trails through native bush. JEH: What do you think would surprise our readers to know about New Zealand? MS: New Zealanders don’t speak English. They speak Kiwi. Just like in the UK or Australia, there are many words that are uniquely Kiwi. Here are just a few examples: Chilly Bin = cooler, jandles = flip flops; togs = bathing suit; dairy =local small grocery shop; chippies = carpenters; sparkies = electricians. JEH: Let’s focus on Wellington, now. What would you think was important to share with our readers about the city? MS: There’s a reason Wellington is called “Best Little Capital!” Of course, I’m biased, but without a doubt it is a fun, funky, quirky capital. It’s easily walkable, has a vibrant micro-brew sub-culture, and doesn’t take itself too seriously. There’s a little something for everyone. JEH: In Wellington, what are the top attractions? MS: I’ve already mentioned Te Papa. That’s a must see! If you’re a Tolkein/Hobitt/Lord of the Rings fan, then a trip to the WETA Studios is a must! The famous saying in Wellington is “You can’t beat Welly on a good day!” It is notorious for its wind and rain, but not withstanding, if you are lucky enough to have good weather, then walking along the Oriental Parade to see the full beauty of the harbor is breathtaking. If you only have a short time in the city, then jump on the Cable Car and head up to the top to get a stunning view of the whole inlet. If it’s a good day, you might get lucky and see the South Island too. If you have more time, take a day trip to the Wairarapa region and enjoy some world class Sauvignon Blanc at the wineries.

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JEH: Can you share with our readers one or two anecdotal stories about life in New Zealand? MS: A popular expression used by everyone young and old is “Sweet as.” It’s equivalent to saying okay or no problem. Shortly after we moved here, my then seven-year-old son came home from school one day upset. When I asked what had happened, he informed me that someone had told him he had a cute bum. I burst out laughing, realizing that, due to the Kiwi accent, my son had heard “sweet ass” when it was intended as “sweet as.” I was once requested to provide a small gift that would be put into “a hamper” at a prize giving event. In the States, if someone refers to a hamper, I would think they were talking about a dirty clothes hamper. Since that didn’t seem logical, I explained to the organizer my confusion and requested clarification. She broke out laughing and informed me it was a picnic basket.

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JEH: Is there anything else that you might think of regarding traveling in New Zealand that might be of benefit to our readers? MS: It takes longer to get between towns and cities. Unlike the States where everything is connected via highways and motorways, New Zealand has only two motorways in the whole country. Almost all roads are two lanes going through small towns. The magic of this is that you see the real New Zealand and, as they say here, you get a “tiki tour” of the country, taking the slow roads while seeing stunning scenery.

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ASIA

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WALK A DAY THROUGH THE HEART OF

Old Taipei BY YI-SHENG HSU

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A temple—as simple as it may seem—does a lot more than perform religious services in a city like Taipei, which appears intense in its urban design and the pace of modern life. Most temples house Taoism deities that were introduced to the island in the Qing dynasty; it was then the city started to grow and eventually took over Tainan’s dominance in the south in terms of economic and political significance. Later, however, after the rulers changed, these temples continually developed their connections with the surrounding communities and people, which together formed a unique, charming cultural landscape. Following their guidance, we shall explore the traditional area of the city and discover the traces of history hidden under the skin of modern Taipei. We’ll start our day with a visit at Dalongdong Baoan Temple (大龍峒保安宮). As a national monument, the temple preserves all the details of traditional architecture and is worth a stop to appreciate: the layout, the materials, and the hand-crafted decorations. Constructed in the eighteenth century, the building has been restored several times, with the latest restoration taking place around the millennium. The building structures and the decorative designs were mostly repaired using traditional techniques, which allow visitors to discover the elegance of oriental classical art in every corner. Now we hastily leave for the next stop! The neighboring traditional market is a great place to find delicious street food. I would recommend grabbing a drink at The Black Tea Drink House (紅茶屋). Their peanut smoothie tastes brilliant with its natural flavor. But it’s not made of peanut butter, but peanut rice milk. It’s something that will wake you up better than coffee does in the morning. Heading south, we’ll move to Dadaocheng Cisheng Temple (大稻埕慈聖宮) for brunch. What I find particularly attractive about this Mazu temple is the food court right in front of the gate. The vendors reveal a local lifestyle illustrating how temples developed a unique status in commercial activities and social interaction. It’s also the reason why many of the townships in Taiwan are famous for their local shrines. Although their religious focus may be accessed by fewer people nowadays, their connection with the public has grown even stronger because they have redefined their own importance in people’s daily life even in a modern society.

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The area of Dadaocheng (大稻埕), where Cisheng Temple is located, was once an economic center as a prosperous trading port in northern Taiwan. At its center, you’ll find remaining vestiges from numerous buildings constructed during the Qing and Japanese ruling periods. Under their historical skins lay countless stories that seamlessly interweave the destiny of the island. Dihua Street and its surrounding neighborhood definitely deserve time. Spending an afternoon here wandering its streets and lanes, you will discover the Old Town’s unsurpassed charm. In spite of their classical, elegant appearance, many houses we randomly encounter here, in fact, bear historical burdens heavier than they seem. You’ll find Taian Hospital (大安醫院) once the place where Chiang Wei-shui (蔣渭水) and other contemporary intellectuals called for the Taiwanese collective identity under Japanese rule. Check out also the Taiwan New Cultural Movement Memorial Hall (臺灣新文化運動紀念館) for a closer look at those well-preserved cells, in which police used to torture prisoners. And don’t miss Tianma Tea House (天馬茶房), where the trigger for the 228 Incident took place, which resulted in a massive violent suppression that remains controversial even now. Dadaocheng records both the beauty and sorrow of the past. Nowadays the area assembles food merchants, bringing modern vitality to the streets surrounding the Taipei Xiahai City God Temple (臺北霞海城隍廟) and Yongle Market (永樂市場). The Xiahai City God Temple is famous as the home of Yue Lao, the god of love and marriage in Chinese mythology. Interestingly, it was only fifty years ago that the temple installed the deity, though its history traces back to the early nineteenth century. Yue Lao nowadays attracts many young people who pray for a relationship and marriage. When the sun begins to set, the old town offers plenty of food options that will satisfy your taste buds. In addition to the cafes and restaurants scattered around, you will also find snacks at the Pier Plaza. Here you can nibble while enjoying subtropical breezes by the Tamsui River. Do take Ningxia Night Market (寧夏夜市) into consideration; its Fang Chia Shredded Chicken on Rice (方家雞肉飯) has been consecutively selected in the Michelin Guide for several years, which makes it one of the most well-known street food vendors in Taipei City. Before we call it a day, I would highly recommend walking a bit farther to Bosan Cafe (珈琲寶山) and give their hand drip coffee a try. The two unique dark roast blends taste strong and complex, full of flavors that will linger in your mouth. The interior design pays tribute to Japanese kissaten, where even sitting still can become an enjoyable activity. Alternatively, you may head to the nearby Tiaotong district (條通商圈) on Linsen North Road and immerse yourself in a Japanese style nightlife— but that would be another story.

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THE TOP 5 BEACHES IN BALI Indonesia is an enchanting country chockfull of culture, tradition, and flair. Of course, most visitors travel here for its beaches. Here are the top five beaches on the island of Bali… SEMINYAK BEACH, SOUTH BALI Most agree, this is the best beach on Bali. Seminyak, which lies between Kuta and Legian in the western conurbation. The three-mile beach is a stretch of white-sand backed by bars, restaurants, and quality hotels all from which the beach is at your doorstep. NUSA DUA BEACH, SOUTH BALI The white sand of this beach is simply gorgeous. Nusa Dua is a resort area of Bali, where there are fine hotels intermingled with palm trees set on pristine sands. Once a mangrove area, the reclaimed beach is nearly 9 miles long. BALANGAN BEACH, BUKIT PENINSULA, SOUTH BALI Balangan is one of the top surfing beaches in Bali. It yields an interesting mix of surfers, backpackers, and those who want a laid-back vibe while soaking in the sun. Rustic restaurants serve local Indonesian food and offer ice-cold drinks (which are always in high demand.) Although the beach is not a big one (less than half a mile) adding in the cliffs and reef make it one of the top in Indonesia simply for its stunning setting. PADANG PADANG BEACH, ULUWATU Although you may not realize it, if you have watched the movie Eat Pray Love you have already been introduced to this idyllic beach. It found fame through the film and deserves the recognition. Situated in a lovely bay, it sits court for perfect Indonesian sunrises. Although small, it attracts sunbathers and surfers. ECHO BEACH, CANGGU Echo Beach is one of the trendiest places to go, with chic bars, hip restaurants, and great boutiques. So much so that you can find yourself stuck in a traffic jam heading to the beach regardless of the time of day (so, if you choose Echo Beach, book a hotel nearby.) What makes this beach special is its black sand which strikes a great contrast to the blue sea.

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Imagine a place where a profusion of scents from myriad tropical flowers in bloom engulf you. Where tall mountains, decked in all shades of green, serve as the gorgeous backdrop to a charming town dazzle you. Where birdsong fills the air. And brightly colored tuk-tuks make their way down lush, tree-lined streets buzzing past parked American cars dating back to the 1950s. Where other birds – roosters to be specific – amble alongside these same tuk-tuks without a care in the world. Imagine a bamboo bridge spanning the snakelike belly of the Mekong River, and morning commuters quickly and fearlessly traversing its wooden slots. While a man dressed in khaki shorts and a cerulean-blue t-shirt waters a meticulously arranged vegetable garden that creeps up from the riverbank. Don’t forget the gentle breezes that ruffle blouses and caress cheeks. Have you set the picture in your head? Welcome to Luang Prabang, Laos. Luang Prabang, Laos is – simply put – enchanting. Set in Indochina, it is the destination of backpackers, Foodies, and the ultra-hip crowd. It is easily accessed by plane from Bangkok and well worth the trip. Because of its size, visitors can use their own feet and a handy map to negotiate its streets. Warning though – it is incredibly hot and humid, even in the winter months. As you would imagine (that imagination again) a tropical destination to be. So be prepared. For being small, Luang Prabang packs an incredibly big punch. Art galleries, five-star restaurants, French cafés, openair markets, spas, Buddhist temples, and historic sites dot its streets. Its feel is fresh and new yet steeped in history. A former French colony, its culture is a mix of European, Asian, and traditional Lao. And its people? They are the friendliest that you will ever meet. There are indulgences here. Spas to enjoy a mid-afternoon massage. Art galleries to lose time in. Buddhist temples to duck into to escape the heat and admire beautiful mosaics. Cafes where a Café au Lait rival those in France. And the food? Amazing. Lao food is clean and light and absolutely delicious. Choices of dining range from small eateries (where a waiter will crack open a coconut at your table and offer you a straw) to upscale establishments that serve world-class fusion dishes.

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Enchantress A REAL-LIFE

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SPEAKING OF FOOD… If you travel to Luang Prabang and are looking to do something memorable, make sure to take a cooking class at Tamarind. This restaurant hosts group classes and is a complete experience. It begins with a morning excursion to a food market. A guide teaches how to choose the perfect ingredients which are later used during the cooking class itself. Then it is off to an idyllic outdoor kitchen and the instruction begins. Students sip on lemongrass tea while learning the ins-and-outs of Lao cooking. Finally, as a group, everyone dines on their created dishes. The school provides you with a small cookbook at the end to practice your new skills at home. Speaking of markets… Every night as the sun goes down, Luang Prabang heats further up. But it is not the temperature that climbs, it is the outdoor revelry. One thing not to be missed is the night market which is set up centrally in the area where most tourists stay. Here, you will find everything from packs of playing cards to local art to touristy mementoes. Laos is known as The Land of a Million Elephants and the elephant is paid homage to in countless items in the market. You may even find a special keepsake, such as a wooden marionette of a monk. SPEAKING OF MONKS… The sight of hundreds of monks lining the streets of this World Heritage Town to collect food from local people is tru-

ly awe-inspiring – a photo opportunity that most tourists are willing to set their alarms for. Sai Bat (morning alms) takes place between 5-6am each day and involves people placing food and personal care items into the alms bowls of passing monks. Among the monks are many child novices, also dressed in orange robes. They are small of stature and sweet of face. It’s a silent and sacred ceremony – one that is steeped in tradition. You can hear a pin drop as it takes place. One of the benefits of staying in Luang Prabang is its easy access to activities in the region. A visit to the Pak Ou cave (the most holy site in Laos) or the Kwangsi Waterfall (with its dual cascading waterworks) is easy to arrange. You can book a small speedboat trip down the Mekong or try your hand at kayaking on one of the river’s tributaries. Tour operators will pick you up at your hotel. A very important thing to mention is this – if you decide to travel to Laos, NEVER leave marked paths. There are still active landmines that remain scattered across the countryside from the Vietnam War. Also, although it is “cooler” in the winter, you will not want to go during the slash and burn season which typically takes place in the February/March timeframe. Laos is an agrarian nation, and the Laos implement this method of cultivation, in which forests and fields are burned and cleared for planting. Most of its jaw-dropping scenery is obstructed by a heavy, hazy smoke. 177

SNAPSHOT M umb a i

Mumbai, India is an extraordinary city. It is a bustling beehive of activity. As India’s financial center, it is cosmopolitan and very modern. Long gone are the days of “Far off Bombay.” Its tempo is frenetic. John Eric Home has sat down with Naushad Contractor, a denizen of the city, to discuss the essence of Mumbai.

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JEH: How would you describe living in Mumbai? NC: Living in Mumbai is like living in a video game where you get only one chance. I think that is why videogaming is not that popular in India because we live the video game. JEH: Intriguing response. What do you mean by that? NC: It means that, like in a video game, it is so uncertain as to whether the blockage or the villain will come from the left or the right or the top or the bottom. Driving in Mumbai – you don’t know whether it is going to be a human being or a dog or a cow that you will need to negotiate. Will the car in front of me stay in its lane or break and come into mine? Will a train suddenly be there? Will there be a roadblock due to some religious festival? That kind of stuff is so unpredictable, and that’s why it’s like a videogame. And there is only one chance, because in the video game you normally get at least 3 chances. JEH: What is your favorite aspect of living in this city? NC: No one really cares who you are – while there are those more celebrity focused, they are a minority. In Mumbai, everyone is so busy with doing their own thing and minding their own business that they stay out of your business. And you mind your own. JEH: What is a special site or activity that a visitor must not miss? NC: Mumbai has a very nice Jewish synagogue. It has many celebrated beaches and many not so celebrated ones. The lesser-known beaches are cleaner and less crowded. The thing about Mumbai is that there is something for everyone. Whether you are culturally inclined and want to watch a play, or you’re architecturally inclined and want to just admire the city’s buildings, you can find your own space. The architecture is something to see as it seamlessly combines modernity and the Victorian era. I would definitely recommend that a visitor take in the Victorian buildings. They are unique and beautiful. Even London doesn’t have these types. For example, the Victoria Terminus – now called the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus – is the largest railway station in the world and quite amazing in and of itself.

JEH: Let’s talk a bit about cuisine in Mumbai. The city is international and has diversity in foreign fare, but what about its Indian food. More specifically, its street food. What would you recommend? NC: I would encourage people to eat the street food but not of the streets. It may not be conducive to foreign palettes and stomachs. You can find the same foods in restaurants throughout the city. JEH: And what about shopping? NC: When shopping, go for leathers. Jackets, handbags, belts, shoes. But I encourage street shopping for trinkets. Even if you don’t buy anything, the experience is fun. Of course, bargaining is part of that experience. But it is important to understand that the 50 rupees that you pay them less doesn’t really impact you – it’s less than a dollar – but it greatly impacts them. So don’t bargain that hard. I call it a small donation. JEH: How would you capture the essence – the spirit – of Mumbai? NC: Mumbai, with all its busyness, has a heart, and it will always help people who need help. It also has a “never die” spirit. This spirit is visible in, say, the monsoon season. Even if there is waist high water, people are trying to get to their work. And, when the attacks on Mumbai occurred, the next day people were right back to work.

JEH: Would you recommend seeing Dharavi? NC: I would. Dharavi is the world’s largest slum. It is a city within a city. Over a million people live there stretching back generations. It has its own leather industry and other small industries. It really is an amazing living organism in the heart of Mumbai. It’s usually possible to shy away from slums but this is a slum a.) on a different scale and b.) with so many intricacies that it is something to see.

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THE TOP 5 ANCIENT RUIN SITES IN JORDAN Petra is perhaps one of the most renowned ruins in the world. But Jordanite ruin sites extends far beyond this oftphotographed site. Here are the top five sites to visit if traveling to Jordan… PETRA Of course, Petra tops the list. The “Rose City” built by ancient Nabataeans has become a symbol of Jordan. Plan to spend hours here winding your way through narrow red gorges, admire the Treasury (Al-Khazneh), explore the numerous rock-cut tombs, and hike all the way out to the Monastery (Al-Deir.) DESERT CASTLES – QASR AMRA AND QASR AL-AZRAQ At Qasr Amra, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, breathtaking frescoes depict an array of hunting scenes, animals, plants, zodiac figures, and constellations. Qasr al-Azraq has a history stretching back into antiquity, though its current appearance is largely due to 13th-century construction in black basalt. This fortress boasts incredible doors made from large blocks of stone and is also famous for having housed T.E. Lawrence, the author of Lawrence of Arabia. LITTLE PETRA Also built by the Nabataeans, likely around the 1st century CE, Little Petra features even more rock-cut buildings, impressively hewn and carved out of cliffs and mountainsides. A highlight of Petra is The Painted House, a small room with a well-preserved ceiling fresco that depicts birds and twisting grapevines. JERASH Jerash evidences settlements from the Neolithic (75005500 BCE) and Bronze Ages (3200-1200 BCE) as well as the city’s role in the Hellenistic world (323-31 BCE). From 63 BC onward, Jerash and its surroundings belonged to Rome and the settlement received a visit from Emperor Hadrian, which occasioned the construction of a triumphal arch to celebrate his visit to the city. This arch remains standing today. The ruins are sprawling and expansive. GADARA (UMM QAIS) The ruins at Umm Qais attract fewer crowds than Jerash, which allows a leisurely exploration. Colonnaded streets, temples, baths, a theater, and a hippodrome area easily strolled through. Gadara’s dramatic setting offers panoramic views over the ruins and their vast surroundings. Visitors can see the Sea of Galilee, Golan Heights, and at times into Lebanon.

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STYLIST FASHION FORWARD

Whether it’s a short drive or a long-haul, traveling in comfortable clothing is essential. Fabric made with a bit of stretch can make all the difference. Pieces that offer a little more room allow you to easily move around in them, especially if you’re sitting for hours at a time in a plane or car. Also important in choosing pieces is packability. The clothing that you will need after you arrive to your destination is just as critical. If you’re not wearing your gear, how easy will it be to pack down and stow inside your carry-on, checked bag or backpack? What will be versatile that can pack away easily but also be worn for multiple situations and occasions? And what about shoes, which always take up the most space? Here are a few of the greats…

1. Anatomie Andrea Contrast Panel Leggings: Although these are technically not leggings, they feel like them. They can be worn with tanks, tees, sweaters, flats, sneakers and ankle boots. One of the most versatile and stylish pants that you can find. 2. prAna Railay Skort: The Railay Skort leaves nothing to be desired. Its breathable fabric is wrinkle resistant with an ultra-lightweight feel. It’s packed with performance features and can be dressed up or down. 3. Women’s Merino 200 Oasis Long Sleeve Crewe Thermal Top: Recommended by travelers worldwide, the New Zealand Icebreaker brand has great travel clothing. For those venturing to cooler climes, their specialty merino wool garments can be worn constantly and are said not to “smell.” 4. Banana Republic Dolman Top: Beloved for its silky softness and hammered texture – known in Italian as martellato – this soft and shimmery top is crafted from lightweight twill fabric. 5. Encircled The Comfy Shirt Dress Shirt: The Comfy Shirt Dress made by Canadian apparel company Encircled is made from luxuriously-soft, sustainable Modal fabric for an elegant drape and beyond comfortable feel. It is easy to pack and easy to wear.

STYLE

1. KÜHL Revolvr™: KÜHL’s lightweight and quick drying pants delivers durability and comfort. Made of breathable cotton, these easy-care pants have anti-abrasion toughness and forgiving stretch. Bonus – they have superior sun protection (UPF 50) and seven pockets for storage. 2. Columbia Men’s Washed Out™ Shorts: Always a fan of travelers, the Columbia brand doesn’t disappoint with their shorts. These soft cotton chino shorts feature multi-functional pockets and are easy to pack. 3. UNTUCKit Wrinkle-Free Sangiovese Shirt: Made with wrinkle free fabric, this solid shirt is ready when you are. It features a point collar and left chest pocket. It’s the perfect item to pack – no muss, no fuss. 4. Uniqlo HEATTECH Cotton Crew Neck Long-Sleeve T-Shirt (Extra Warm): This Japanese brand is especially noteworthy for their HeatTECH collections. HEATTECH innerwear has heat-retaining properties and is great to wear as a base layer in cold climates. 5. Fjällräven Övik T-shirt M: While many have seen this iconic Swedish brand’s backpacks, they also carry a great line of clothing that is comfortably travelable. This comfortable round-necked t-shirt with short sleeves in organic cotton jersey is a fan favorite.

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Dubai

S H O P , S TAY & PL AY

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Dubai gets a lot of ink. This jewel of the United Arab Emirates set on the Persian Gulf is a travel destination like no other. Inherent in its nature is a love for the fantastical. Its skyline shines against the backdrop of a barren desert. People the world over flock to its stunning shoreline, out-ofthis-world shopping experiences, diverse culinary scene, and incredible attractions. There are so many reasons why Dubai should be on everyone’s travel list. For a tourist, Dubai is a city of contradictions. It is home to some of the world’s most modern and breathtaking sites. But it is still tethered strongly to its past as a small port town. Traditional wooden abras float past large modern vessels. Natural sands are counterposed by carefully sculpted islands. Traditional souks (markets) are set amid the massive Dubai Mall. It is a special dynamic and one that establishes Dubai firmly on the tourist map. 187

WHAT TO DO Spend a day at the beach. Most hotels in Dubai offer exclusive beach and pool day passes. One of the best is the expansive One&Only Royal Mirage. The hotel is one of Dubai’s most opulent, with extensive grounds and a long stretch of private beach. Buying a day pass to its DRIFT beach club gives you access to sun-loungers and several different pools, with lots and lots of space to find your perfect spot. Visit the Museum of the Future. One of the city’s most famous landmarks, this ‘living museum’ explores how society could evolve in the coming decades, combining elements of traditional exhibition, immersive theatre, and themed attractions. Look beyond the present and towards the future’s limitless possibilities across a range of sectors, including space travel, climate change and ecology. Take a ride on the Ain Dubai. Ain Dubai is one of Dubai’s many record-breaking attractions. Located on Bluewaters Island, it offers 360-degree views of the urban skyline during a 38-minute journey. There are three different pod experiences on offer: observation cabins, social cabins, and private cabins. Soak in the views at The View of the Palm. Enjoy incom188

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parable views of one of Dubai’s most talked about landmarks at The View at The Palm. Located 240m high, the observation deck presents never seen before 360-degree panoramas of Palm Jumeirah alongside the sparkling waters of the Arabian Gulf and Dubai skyline in the distance. The View at The Palm is located on level 52 of The Palm Tower, which also houses a café. Scuba Dive. Yes, in the desert. The latest addition to the city’s thriving sports and adventure activities scene, Deep Dive Dubai is the place to be for all aqua enthusiasts. The recreational center’s 60.02m-deep pool is certified by Guinness World Records as the world’s deepest swimming pool for diving. Aside from its remarkable depth, the pool features other unrivalled underwater additions, such as a ‘sunken city’ feature. Immerse yourself in the biggest immersive digital art center in the Middle East. Infinity des Lumières, brings contemporary art to life through 130 projectors, 58 speakers and an incredible 3,000 HD digital moving images. The immersive experience transports visitors into a world where they can enjoy living dynamic art. Exhibitions related to Van Gogh, Japa-

nese artists such as Hokusai, and a doorway into the cosmos with Thomas Vanz, will run simultaneously through the gallery and captivate your senses. Tour the Burj Al Arab. While the iconic sail-shaped hotel has been synonymous with Dubai for decades, for the first time since its launch, the Burj Al Arab has opened its doors to visitors for an immersive 90-minute tour. The exclusive experience invites viewers to explore the landmark’s gilded suites and ultra-luxurious interiors while uncovering its history and wealth of untold stories. Buy spices in a soukh. A trip to Dubai is not complete without wandering around its traditional markets. There are many to choose from which offer special mementoes of your trip. Play a game over a Cuban sandwich. Homemade sandwiches, plus desserts and coffee, are all available as you pick which of Unwind’s 800 games to play next. This Al Barsha playing place, the first of its kind in the country, gets rave reviews. Take tips from Unwind’s games masters to get an edge over your friends and family.

WHERE TO EAT Teible. The farm-to-table specialists at Teible restaurant are serving up a poetic degustation experience inspired by a Nabati poem. Chef Carlos Frunze has taken verses from the Bedouin speech and turned them into a culinary ode to the country, highlighting local produce and customs through a 10-course meal. Only on offer till September, this not to be missed affair. Bastion. Seafood fans can indulge their palates every Monday as European brasserie Bastion puts the spotlight on fresh black mussels every week. Feast on unlimited bowls of the fruits des mer, cooked in sauces like blue cheese, marinière, curry or cream, alongside crisp chips at the popular brasserie. Book your table for the two-hour sessions. Al Fanar Seafood Market. This traditional Emirati restaurant brand was set up in Dubai in 2011 and if you’re looking for tasty, authentic food showcasing the UAE’s history, this is the place. Recipes passed down include sea bass machboos and classic dessert luqaimat. Al Fanar’s Al Barsha branch specialises in seafood dishes, and the setting – on the edge of Pond Park – is incredibly peaceful. 189

WHERE TO SHOP Dubai Gold Souk. The mesmerising Dubai Gold Souk on the banks of Dubai Creek is undoubtedly one of the most famous attractions in Dubai, with millions of visitors each year browsing the 380 stalls and stores selling every item of jewellery imaginable. As with most markets in Dubai, haggling is expected, but as Dubai has few taxes and is a major centre for the international gold trade, prices usually match the global standard. The Dubai Mall. The biggest mall in the world is home to over 1,200 retail stores spread over an area the size of 200 football fields and has something for everyone. Everything from ultra-luxury to chain stores are found within. The mall is so large that it might be worth hopping onto an indoor car that can take you around it. Boxpark. Walk between small shops on the street of this outdoor shopping center located between Al Wasl and Jumeirah in Dubai’s Business Bay. The vibrant industrial complex, made from colourful shipping containers, is the perfect place to find souvenirs for those at home. Or yourself. Perfume Souk. Follow the scents inside of Dubai’s perfume souk in search of your new signature smell. Located in the souk area of Bur Dubai, this souk is a maze of tiny stalls stocked with a vast array of scents. Liquid perfumes, incense sticks, solid perfumes, and smoking bakhoor (incense) are available. Oudh is a signature scent in the UAE, and the woody smell lingers in the air. Outlet Village. Outlet Village is the destination to buy high-end brands for less. Set in Dubai’s central Jebel Ali district, Adidas, Kate Spade, Michael Kors, Tumi and Tommy Hilfiger all have shops in the mall. Among 120 others. WHERE TO STAY Mövenpick Hotel Jumeirah Village Triangle. The family-friendly Mövenpick Hotel Jumeirah Village Triangle offers panoramic views of the city skyline and a host of amenities to keep all ages entertained. An aqua park, kids’ club, three swimming pools (including an infinity just for women) and a luxe La Mer Spa. Foodies dine at international favorite MRKT, Italian restaurant Ricci and the lobby located Mövenpick Cafe, where you can even indulge in complimentary chocolate treats every evening. Taj Exotica Resort & Spa The Palm. This waterside resort differentiates itself with amenities such as in-suite jacuzzis, an in-house School of Yoga, and the longest pool on The Palm. Soft play areas, entertainment zones, an award-winning Jiva Spa and signature Varq fine dining restaurant are just some of its attractions. Raffles The Palm. This ultra-luxurious hotel takes up prime space along the West Crescent of Palm Jumeirah and has enchanting city and sea views. Its tranquil interiors and private al fresco spaces are an escape from the urban bustle, while still within easy reach of Dubai’s top attractions.

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SNAPSHOT T ürk i y e

Turkey is a place that lights the imagination. Full of diverse cultures, history, and amazing places to visit, it is difficult to find someone who has traveled to Turkey and not fallen in love with the country and its people. Nurcan Kocyigit, a native of Turkey, has sat down with John Eric Home to answer some of our questions on this exotic destination.

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JEH: What is your favorite place in Istanbul? NK: To be honest I have many favorite places, but my absolute favorites are in the old sections – The Blue Mosque, the Hague Sophia, the Old Bazaar, the Galata Tower. There is so much history there. I also enjoy that The Blue Mosque and Hague Sophia are car-free zones so there is not traffic involved – I enjoy the parts where no cars are around. In the morning, it is really nice to go there for first prayers – as the sun rises and there are only a few people around, it is amazing. From Galata you can see the Bosphorus River. It is so lovely. I can’t describe it – you have to see it. JEH: Can you please tell us about one or two of Istanbul’s hidden treasures? NK: Hidden treasures – hmmm. The real hidden treasures are the local restaurants in the city. Where you can’t find them at first sight – there are lots of really old ones that have been run by the same family for 150 years or more and still remain in their original styles. The treasures are all about food really. But I would also add that what is really, really nice is a trip to the islands which are close to Istanbul. You can see how big Istanbul really is. It takes about two hours to go by boat to the biggest island, but the amazing thing about it is all the while you travel there you are passing Istanbul. I mean, you look right and left, all the skyscrapers pass by, yet it is still all Istanbul. I don’t know for certain how long it takes to travel from one end of the city to the other – but I think that it is about 4 hours. It’s huge. JEH: To the travelers who are interested in going to Istanbul, what would you say in terms of the vibe of the city? NK: Istanbul is like New York. It is a big and diverse city full of restaurants and shops and museums and culture. Everything that you would expect for a big city to have. But there are hidden parts where people don’t even use televisions – they think that there are too many influences – and they like to live on their own. Istanbul is a different spot from the rest of Turkey. It’s like its own country. It’s like Singapore in a way – it’s its own. That what is in Istanbul is Istanbul – you will not find the same throughout the rest of Turkey. That is what I really want to point out. JEH: If someone is coming to Istanbul, what are the top 3 sites or activities that they must see or do? NK: If you are staying in Istanbul make sure to take a Bosphorus ferry trip. It is special. Of course, visit The Blue Mosque and Hague Sophia which are very close to each other. Topkapi Palace was the home to the Ottoman Sultans and has a lovely view of the city. Visit the islands and eat tons and tons of very nice food. Oh, and one more place to

visit is the Hamam within the Old Bazaar. It is old and many say shabby but definitely should be seen. Most hamams in Istanbul were built in the 17th and 18th centuries. JEH: Can you share with us some insight in terms of what it is like to live in Istanbul? NK: It is a city that doesn’t sleep – it’s like New York – always busy. So, life in Istanbul is very similar to life in any big, metropolitan city. One difference may be that there are very few playgrounds for children. People prefer to go to shopping malls because they have air conditioning, and they go as a trip – not to shop – but as a trip. They have lunch or dinner at the food court and use the malls’ playing areas for the kids. JEH: Let’s leave Istanbul for now and speak about Turkey in general. Not so much about places to visit or see, but the character of the country and its people. What can you tell us about that? NK: Because there are living so many nations in Turkey and the Turkish have so many relatives all over the world, you will find for sure someone that has lived in your country. They will ask where you are from and then they will find someone, whether it is a friend of a friend or the cousin of a friend of a friend’s friend and they will say “I lived there as well” or “I’ve been to the US, and it is so nice.” I’m pointing to the US because you are from the US (said with a laugh.) It’s like searching for a common ground to become closer to each other. That is what I would love to point out. They will welcome you like you are a very, very old friend. The hospitality of the Turkish people is very, very serious. I have traveled a lot – and it’s not because I am Turkish – but I have never seen the same hospitality anywhere else in the world. The Turkish like to give joy – they invite you for dinner and bonds develop. To have this hospitality, it is something that is difficult to express in words. It is just felt. I will give you an example. My family and I were in the countryside and there were women preparing fresh bread. I wanted to give them business, so I approached one of them to buy a few loaves. But it was early and so she had no change as she didn’t have much business yet. Do you know how it ended up? She gave it to my kids as a present – to see joy in their eyes. I wanted to help her, but it ended that she gave me the present. This happens all the time in Turkey. I would advise anyone traveling to Turkey to go out into the countryside. It is difficult because most people only speak Turkish, but they are very kind, and they will do everything to communicate with you. To be honest, my family and I generally go to these kinds of areas because it feels like our childhood where the people are welcoming and warm. If you stay only for a couple of days, you will

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leave with a new auntie and uncle. This is how it was in my childhood, but you can’t find this anymore in Istanbul because the people are living very close and crowded, moving in and out, there are tons of apartments where people don’t even know their neighbors. JEH: What is your favorite activity to do in Turkey overall? NK: I love going to the market to see all of the fresh fruits. The best time to go to Turkey is at the end of August or early September because it is getting a little colder and all the fruits and vegetables are at their peak. I did a fig jam in Turkey and the whole apartment smelled for one week. The scent was amazing. Then I came back to Germany where I now live and did the same thing, but the house didn’t even smell. This is so different. JEH: Can you share with our readers something that may surprise them about Turkey? NK: There are now so many working moms, and if their child can’t go to school on a particular day, a school holiday or anything else, in Istanbul, they bring their kids to the office with them. This is completely OK. Mostly there are people who work there, say as a tea server or in security, and they play with the kids. The children play with other children too. In Turkish culture, children are the very heart of the family. They go with their parents to all events, whether it is a wedding or party, they accompany them. Something that may also surprise people is that Turkey is home to people of the Christian, Jewish, and Moslem faiths. Everyone lives with each other in peace. I think that this may not be known to many. And Turkey is one of the only countries that can survive completely on its own. It has all the natural resources that are needed and can be completely self-sufficient. This is a richness of sorts. One important cultural item to note – the poorer of Turkey will not accept donated money. For example, in Istanbul, you will see loads of people wandering around selling tissue packets. If you try to just hand them money, they will not accept it. They will tell you that they are not beggars. They are selling tissues. If you try to give them more money then asked for, they will turn it down. Once I bought all the packets from one of the sellers. JEH: Any final thoughts that you might share with us? NK: Around 25 years ago or so, I was staying in a 5-Star hotel in Istanbul. There had been a crisis in the city – bomb scares, or something like that – and a member of the hotel staff said that because of it, tourists weren’t coming. He also said that once the crisis finished, the visitors would be running back to Turkey. Because if someone has been to Turkey once, they will come again.

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YI-SHENG

https://doyouwantsometea.github.io/portfolio

BUZZ DAILY DC

UNITED

United Airlines has applied to the U.S. Department of Transportation to offer three weekly nonstop flights between Dulles International Airport and Cape Town, South Africa. If approved, United’s routes would become the firstever nonstop flights between Greater Washington and South Africa’s oldest city. The proposed service would begin November 17 and would connect 55 U.S. cities to Cape Town. In its announcement, United said the “long-overdue route” would benefit government connections between the two countries — Cape Town is South Africa’s legislative capital — as well as increase commerce and communication. United already operates flights between New York and Cape Town as well as Johannesburg. (WBJ)

AAA

According to AAA Mid-Atlantic, over 50% of Washington, D.C. residents are planning to travel more this summer than they did last year. And nearly 30% are planning their first significant summer travel since the beginning of the pandemic. Of those traveling, more than 40% are planning international travel, more than 50% are planning multiple trips during the summer. (WTOP)

THE JET

Luxury coach bus line The Jet, which started service on November 11, is now operating a fleet of four 45-foot motor coaches, each one with superior comfort and pampering amenities for just 14 passengers, with service between Washington and New York. The Jet uses strategic pickup and drop-off locations in each city—in convenient but low-congestion areas. In Washington, D.C., The Jet starts and completes service near Metro Center; in New York, the pickup and drop-off point is at the Hudson Yards campus. These sites offer passengers a central downtown location, close to each city’s train systems while still avoiding highly trafficked transit areas. Boarding is seamless: Arrive five minutes before your departure time, hand your luggage to the driver and check in with the attendant before settling into your reserved seat. According to its site, the company estimates most trips take about four hours. (Conde Nast)

TRAVEL FEES

U.S. Customs and Border Protection has increased the fee it levies on inbound international travelers from countries participating in the Visa Waiver Program to $17 from $10. The fee does not include a $4 administrative fee. The fee is for the use of the Electronic System for Travel Authorization, a system established in 2009 that allows business travelers and others coming from the 40 countries that participate in the Visa Waiver Program to enter for stays of up to 90 days without a visa. CBP uses ESTA to assess whether inbound travelers are eligible for visa-free entry, and each authorization is eligible for two years. (BTN)

CULTURE WHERE ART AND LIFE MEET

IKÉ UDÉ: NOLLYWOOD PORTRAITS NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AFRICAN ART THROUGH FEBRUARY 28, 2023 The success of Nigeria’s film industry has also meant the rise of glamor and celebrity in what is called Nollywood. Enter Iké Udé, who returned to Lagos in 2014 after three decades as an artist in New York City, to photograph the leading stars, often in costumes from their films, as well as directors and producers in the $3 billion industry. The result reflects the changing nature of African identity in the 21st century. PRESTON SINGLETARY: RAVEN AND THE BOX OF DAYLIGHT, NATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN INDIAN THROUGH JANUARY 29, 2023 Pacific Northwest soundscapes, music and projects accompany a major show at the National Museum of American Indian by Tlingit glass artist Preston Singletary. Organized by the artist with the Museum of Glass in Tacoma, Washington, the show tells the tribal story of Raven and his transformation of the world by bringing light to people from the stars, moon and sun.

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South Africa

LUXURY WILD ABOUT LUXURY BY KELLI ALEXANDER

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From the start of my most recent journey to Cape Town, I considered many carriers but decided on Qatar Airways. Qatar is all about the Q Suites. What exactly is a Q Suite one might ask? Simply put, it’s your private space at 38,000 feet above earth. Arriving onboard, I am greeted personally by the most attentive and well-polished steward and stewardess. Yes, I use those old school terms because…it takes me back to an era of glamour which thanks to Qatar is here again. I am offered the most extensive dining and wine menus to order any items I wish during the flight. Oh, and there is no set mealtime; it’s whatever, whenever I feel like it. I notice that the amenities are not just amenities -- it is none other than an exclusive collection of creams and perfume by Dyptique of Paris. All I can say is Mais bien sur. Pj’s and slippers for the flight are issued to me in my size along with French champagne to start the journey just right. I sink back into my comfy space, shut the door, and gaze through the windows. I know this is going to be epic. I decide it’s dinner time, so I select the sea bass with forbidden rice paired with the perfect Premier Cru by Louis Latour. I swoon. I tell you this was the absolute best fish I have had anywhere on the globe! And that’s saying a lot for airline food. For me, the alchemy of travel is superb cuisine, sensational wine, and an exciting destination. It just doesn’t get any better than this.

Upon arrival in South Africa, I am greeted by my driver and whisked away to Cape Town’s latest luxury residence at the waterfront - The Silo. This is a property with a pedigree as part of the Royal Portfolio collection. (The Royal Portfolio includes the stunning Private Residences just outside of the city on the ocean, La Residence in South Africa’s wine country, Royal Malawane in the Greater Kruger National Park, and Birkenhead House in Hermanus.) The Silo, once an historic grain mill, is now an ultra-chic, imaginative space occupying the top six floors of the South African modern Art Museum. With its mixture of antique mill equipment – suspended from the ceiling of the lobby lounge – to its walls adorned with contemporary art, and its suites – most of them two-story duplexes and dazzling Penthouses – it is simply a mecca for design aficionados. My journey takes me on safari. If there’s one thing and one place you should not miss experiencing, its safari in Africa. While there are many fabulous places to go in Africa, each with its own unique features and distinct charm, on this trip I explored Sir Richard Branson’s Ulusaba in the Sabi Sands. Branson, as we all know, is an out-of-the-box thinker and ultimate doer. From his music label to air and cruise lines, to even space ventures, he raises the bar. But he is also the owner of some extraordinary guest properties worldwide. His penchant for exclusivity and edgy design takes us to his most exhilarating project - Ulusaba in South Africa. 203

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Ulusaba’s prime position along the Sabi and Sand Rivers makes it the best place to see the Big Five in style. Whether you stay at his Rock Lodge, perched high on granite mountains with sweeping landscape views, or anchor yourself at its Safari Lodge, on the ground level right smack at the watering hole, to view game face-to-face while having a meal al fresco, you will be mesmerized every minute of every precious day and night. Next is a quick overnight at the only address I currently recommend in Johannesburg - The Saxon. Nestled in the Beverly Hills-esque neighborhood of Sandhurst, with its gorgeous tree-lined streets, each resident occupies a compound fit for a king and queen. The Saxon is no exception and is a secret yet sprawling hideaway in the midst of this distinguished postal code. No wonder A-Listers and dignitaries flock here. The hotel is haven to exceptionally spacious suites among lush gardens, a magnificent Zen like spa which is a destination itself, and yummy dining options. Why didn’t I book a longer stay? Saxon, I will return. Back on safari I take a short flight to Madikwe. This is a curious location in the Northern Cape of South Africa near the border of Botswana. A different topography. It’s off the beaten path, less traveled, and has less of a footprint, which makes for more wildlife exhibiting different behavioral patterns. These creatures are unaccustomed to crowds so its natural and unspoiled. My stay takes me to Dithaba, part of the Madikwe Safari Lodge. Dithaba is intimate with just four private units each complete with plunge pool, fireplace, bespoke personalized service and delicious fresh cuisine. I love their special touches, like the offering of hot lemongrass-soaked towels to guests upon returning from game drives. There are many elements that would beckon me to revisit Dithaba, but the heart, soul, and thoughtfulness of the staff makes the stay feel more like you are surrounded by close friends. It is what has me dreaming of going back and soon.

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Last but not least, the pinnacle of my trip to Madikwe is the ultra- luxurious Molori Safari Lodge. Jaw dropping. Sensory overload. Otherworldly. They are just a few superlatives which come to mind. Great attention to detail was thought of at Molori. A mixture of classic elegance with contemporary glam throughout has been manifested here. And the consideration to guest surprises like fresh popped corn delivered by butler on a silver tray while out on an afternoon game drive was brilliant and welcomed! Then the private unexpected dinners set up in lovely locations throughout the lodge. Milori outdoes itself. I would be remiss not to mention the traditional Sundowners which many Safari lodges and camps will offer (think Happy Hour in the bush). Molori not only includes the obligatory gin & tonic with snacks, but they also provide a full bar complete with specialty crafted cocktails and spirits suited to their guests’ tastes. Another stand out Molori staple is homemade granola and yogurt with coffee on morning game drives along with crepes made to order...while at a sunrise stop. And this was all before the full breakfast that was served upon my return to the lodge. And the safari guides at Molori – outstanding! Jerry Ubisi was personable and tenacious when it came to seeking game. When we told him what we wanted to spot, he did it every time! From the lion who was hiding and then revealed himself and then led us all the way to the airstrip, to the cheetah we had seen no other place on this African adventure (but here on Jerry’s watch), to the rare spotted hyena mother and her cubs who one by one emerged from their den in the light of dusk. It could not have been scripted more perfectly. My last morning at Molori blew my mind. I was served a sumptuous breakfast in yet another pop – up location on property at a dining room with vistas of the outdoor environment. Below this dining room is what is called a “Hide”. It’s an area underground for guests to retreat and view wildlife at their watering hole at eye level. In Molori style, the interior of the hide is comfortable and smartly decorated in safari style, including a gin and whiskey bar to quench one’s thirst. While having a lovely repast, complete with well chilled Cap Classique bubbles, we were alerted to go below and see some special arriving guests. We slipped down the curved stairway. Visualize an amazing family of adult and baby elephants coming to the watering hole to drink. We had a front row seat without these beautiful creatures knowing. It was at this moment that I began to fight back the tears welling up. I was humbled by the fact that in this world of billions of people, how grateful I am to have chosen to be right here on this very spot on the planet?

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TOP 5 ART GALLERIES IN THE ZANZIBAR ISLANDS The group of Zanzibar Islands is one of the safest African destinations, even for solo female travelers. If you travel to Zanzibar, make sure to visit one of these art galleries… DR. BULUGU ART GALLERY This gallery has a wide range of paintings from local artists. It’s known not only for quality paintings but the owner’s hospitality and art talks. R5QR+FGF, Changa Bazaar Street. HELLEN ART GALLERY The art pieces at this gallery are painted by the proprietors themselves. The medium used is oil on canvas and paper. R5PP+8X9, Kenyatta Road. CULTURAL ARTS CENTRE ZANZIBAR The Centre showcases Zanzibari art, with artists working within its building. Their mission is to provide a space where local artists and artisans can develop, exhibit, discuss and sell their art. The pieces are primarily paintings, jewelry, and crafts. R5QR+29C, Hamamni Street. HURUMZI HENNA ART GALLERY The women of the Hurumzi Henna Art Gallery transform traditional henna body arts into paintings and prints. The gallery also hosts workshops to teach the art. 242 Hurumzi Street. YAWARA MASSAGE & TINGATINGA ARTS Yawara has a wide range of paintings available for purchase as well as a Japanese chiropractic massage service in its building. Shangani Post Office, Kenyatta Road.

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SNAPSHOT Zim b a b we

Zimbabwe, which means “Houses of Stone” in its native Shona language, is a land of intrigue and amazing wildlife. If you have ever dreamed of taking a photographic safari, make sure to keep reading. John Eric Home sat down with Rowan Lewis, a native Zimbabwean and former photographic safari guide, who shared with us his story and the story of Zimbabwe…

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JEH: What would surprise people about Zimbabwe? RL: I think perhaps the most prominent thing would be that in the face of current poverty at the hands of severe political persecution, it is the general joy and peacefulness and kindness of the people. The general populace would stand in stark contrast to what you would expect. The persecution from a – I don’t even know what to call that – a strong handed regime – that has sought to belittle, undermine, and disempower its people to prevent them from having the ability to raise any resistance against the desires of the political upper class. Yet, in the face of that poverty, you will still find hospitality and a welcome – particularly in the rurals – from folks who don’t see you as a threat and will welcome you. JEH: What was it like growing up in Zimbabwe? RL: A pleasant answer or a difficult answer? JEH: Both. RL: I grew up amidst what is known as the Rhodesian War. So, I had a guerilla experience as a child on a farm uncertain of the future of each night. I was sent to boarding school at the age of six, followed by my sister a year later, and for the rest of my school career that is where I would spend most weeks. I would come home for the weekends. Fortunately, our experience was not as harmful as many, but we lost many friends during that time. The war settled in 1980, and as I graduated into high school, peace had been re-established in Zimbabwe. Over the course of the next couple of years my family, as a cattle ranching operation, struggled through two major droughts. The last being in 1987. Even so my father was titled Cattleman of the Year that particular year despite the drought. We ran 3,000 head of cattle, at least 50 horses, and employed over 200 people. The property that we operated was a combination of two ranches. The original my grandfather had started. It was 15,000-acres – courtesy of the British government in the early Southern Rhodesia days. He had come out from Wales and was part of the British South African police. Post Second World War, all servicemen were given the opportunity of receiving substantial support. After my grandfather passed, my dad took over and added 16,000 acres. In the end, we operated on 30,000 acres of land which is about the size of a small county in the United States. Following the droughts, our 3,000 head of cattle slowly and progressively cut down to 300. By the end of 1987, the decision had been made that we would take up all the internal cattle fences and put them on the outside and concentrate on wildlife. They were the only animals that seemed to survive and recover very well from a drought.

And so, we entered into tourism and in particular wildlife management on our land. From 1980 onwards, Zimbabwe had become an attraction on the international map and tourism had grown significantly. So, for me, growing up through those years – my childhood was spent regularly on the farm, riding horses, rounding up and dipping cattle. JEH: How did you get into the safari? RL: The safari line was an interesting journey for me. Having converted our cattle ranch into a wildlife estate – it seemed like a natural progression. When I left school in 1987, I tried to go onto college and got sponsored for a year to come to the America. It was a bit overwhelming for a small African country boy. I returned to Zimbabwe and found myself in the import/export business for a little while. It turned out to be a good education when it came to the safari side, even though the export desk job was not so suitable for a young, barefooted, outdoor boy. Having not survived very long behind a desk, and in search of an alternative means of income, I was offered the opportunity to go and work at Bumi Hills Safari Lodge up on Lake Kariba. Bumi is a private, wildlife estate that was the residence of what was known as the Presidential Elephant Heard and was one of the topclass safari lodges on Lake Kariba at the time. Bumi is situated on top of a very large lone hill with a granite outcrop. It is well wooded, surrounded with forests and with a very wide grassy flood plain down to the lake shore. And so, from the top, sitting on the deck of the lodge entertaining clients in the evening, we would be able to watch herds of elephants wandering around the flood plain below. Occasionally binoculars would pick up a lion pride or there would be features of hippos in the lake. We would marvel at the size of a crocodile passing through where someone may have just tried to take a swim. There I cut my teeth as a rookie trainee safari guide. JEH: How then did it evolve further, meaning what were the steps you needed to take to jump from rookie to professional guide? RL: I needed and got a couriers permit which enabled me to then drive clients in a commercial vehicle to-and-from and through any national park or state-controlled land. With the courier’s license in hand, I found myself up in Kariba and, within a couple of months, I became proficient in handling a speedboat. I then got a coxswain license and was driving an open Land Rover into Matusadona National Park to view incredible herds of almost 800 buffalo which would be followed by a pride of 20 lions. It evolved from there.

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JEH: And what were your experiences as a guide? RL: There were many elephant encounters, hippos in the water – but the most unique thing that I remember about that time was taking my speedboat with clients in the early hours of the morning up into the bays of the lake that formed what we called Palm Bay. It was a great place to adventure and with slow meticulous work – checking the wind and doing everything that I had learned as a boy – I would stalk these areas in the mornings and evenings in search of black rhino. And as it would be in the cruel hours of the evening or the very early hours of the morning, almost dawn, we might get a glimpse of what would be a very rare siting. Of a black rhino cow, her little calf under a year at her foot, coming down for a drink in these very secluded and sheltered bays. I got to know probably seven black rhino in that area during those two years. Sadly, on my return three years after that, there was not one left because of poaching and the demand for rhino horn in the Eastern market. Soon after that – I found myself working in conjunction with private wildlife enthusiasts and landowners to help capture what was left of the black rhino in other areas of the Zambezi Valley and relocate them far inland onto private estates where they would then be better protected. Then, after that I worked with Dad and would go guiding, freelancing for some of the places that I worked with in Kariba. They were wonderful days. Adventure days. Days that I look back on with fondness. To say that it was a dream – I look back and wish that I could give that to my own children, but none of that exists anymore. JEH: What was one of your treasured memories from this time? RL: One of my fondest memories is of a baby elephant and her mother who had isolated herself for a few days from the herd. I took a casual drive down and found Mom, and while I waited for her, sure enough, out of the scrub came this tiny little baby. The young one was inquisitive. A floppy trunk with not much control, wide eyes, long spiky hairs all over to help her not bump into too much – of course the hairs help with sensitivity – and she got inquisitive of the vehicle. Over the course of the next 10 minutes or so, she ventured closer, and you would hear Mom letting out a little rumble. The little one would have to run back, and then curiosity would take hold and she would come out from between Moms legs and venture even further. Mom called her back. On the third try, she got right up to my vehicle, and while I sat there with no doors on an open Land Rover this tiny little one-week old baby elephant wrapped its not very well controlled trunk around my leg. I was not prepared to touch her in case she let out a squeal. That would cause Mom distrust. The mother watched carefully, gave her baby a chance to overcome her curiosity, and then called her back. 216

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Over the course of the next couple of years, she earned the name of Teapot because she was this tiny little elly with a trunk like a spout I suppose. Years later I heard that she was running with a couple of males and reports came back that she had her own first baby. It was interesting to have that continual follow through on the generations. But elephants are incredible – they have this ability to remember things that are far deeper, far longer and rooted to memory and sense and smell. When I was around, they would all gather and come and pay a visit – extending their trunks over to where I was sitting – and pass by. I could today go back into that same herd and the matriarch and others would remember me. A fascinating experience – they are incredible animals. JEH: What do safari goers generally want to see? RL: I would say that the majority of safari goers are always out to get the “Big Five”. This is what is marketed as well – if you can carry the big five – it’s good for the brochure and good for the market. So, what are the big five? We start with the higher, larger creatures of course. What everybody wants to see is an elephant. Then we come down to a few others – the rhinoceros, the Cape buffalo, and then the two large cats of Africa – the lion and the leopard. Others have added the hippopotamus because of his reputation of being responsible for more deaths on the African continent than any other creature. What’s interesting about that is that hippos only eat grass. But they will challenge a canoe or a boat when they have lost a fight for another bull and got moved out of his herd. They then pick a fight and will take on a boat. JEH: What else can you tell us about the hippopotamus? RL: For an herbivore, hippos have taken a difficult time because their habitats and food sources have been overrun by humanity. The encroaching human populations into wildlife zones, particularly along flood plains or water sources that have become agricultural zones. From people who then defend their crops from the typical wildlife that would have eaten there for centuries. And so, the human/ wildlife conflict continues. JEH: What’s the most amazing thing that you have ever seen? RL: There are many amazing things… This may not seem amazing per se, but as someone who studies wildlife, one of the most fascinating and incredible observations that I ever had was watching elephants. I have watched lions hunting and bringing down animals, crocodiles coming out to catch prey, other creatures giving birth in the wild – but the elephants and this small aspect of the animal’s brain – so similar to ours and perhaps even more intelligent – really blew me away. I watched as a teenage – maybe 12-year-old – young

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female (elephant) interacted with two small elephants. One was perhaps a year old and the other just under. As I observed, it appeared to me that the young 12-year-old had been assigned the duty of babysitting. I watched as she let them get distracted with each other and then purposefully and intentionally tiptoe off about 30 feet away, hide behind a bush, and then wait. And before a minute or so was over, the two babies – realizing that their sibling and friend was not to be found – would squeal, look around, scurry around, and then go in search of her. The confirmation for me that this was a game of hide-and-seek were the absolute squeals of delight exhibited by these two tiny little creatures when they found their 12-year-old sibling or cousin or whatever she might have been. And she would run out back into the open – followed by them at her heels – squealing with glee. They played this game over and over and over. In the course of about 20 minutes, I watched them do this three if not four times. Although elephants have brains pretty much the same as ours, I know that there is such a fascination with these giant creatures. They are gentle giants in their own intimate way with one another – yet – such formidable foes if you run across a mother protecting her children. JEH: It is not beyond imagination to think that being in the wild, in the animals’ natural territories, there may have been some interesting encounters. How do you negotiate with wild animals? Particularly the lion? RL: Negotiating with a lion comes with success only by understanding what he is thinking. Can we understand what they think? Under certain circumstances. But there are certain times where you choose not to negotiate very much, and avoidance happens to be the better way. If you can’t avoid? Respect distance, understand that all creatures – including ourselves – have an area of personal space. The majority of animals have an understanding of what space is theirs and when to turn on the flight response as opposed to the fight response. A lion, who is a territorial creature, has the respect for a human as a co-existing predator on the planet. So, unless you fall down drunk and avail yourself to them in the middle of the night on the way home, one is usually able to, when confronted, stand your ground – even at a charge – take aggressive steps toward the animal in his charge, and he will usually cost you a pile of dust and stones flung in your direction. But he will stop and brake, growl and roar, and back off a few steps into his own safe distance. While he does that and retreats a little to give you space, it’s right that you should retreat and give him space too. JEH: You have left the safari behind. What is it that you do now? RL: My background as a guide and in the tourism industry gave me much access to the rural communities of Africa.

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Initially my work was from a conservation perspective. Later, with the difficulties of political agendas that have caused the local populaces to go hungry and therefore turn to destruction of the natural environment including the wildlife – I found myself turning to humanitarian work instead. I’ve worked with Doctors Without Borders in Zimbabwe and multiple faith-based organizations in Zimababwe, Zambia, and other African countries around that region. My background in guiding required me to have extensive medical knowledge. In 2007, I had the fortune of crossing paths with Dr. Frank Hubbel of Solo Wilderness Medicine School out of New Hampshire. He and a team were teaching a wilderness first responder course for a class of missionaries through Overland Missions. I had joined as a volunteer with Overland earlier that January with the intention of working with orphans as a result of HIV/AIDS, which is a prominent problem throughout the region. The goal was to not institutionalize people and to not to create a dependence on the group. To empower them within their families and the social groups that they already have – those are the networks that Africa would have typically used, and it tends to be far better for those communities. In African culture, if we lose a father – his brother becomes our father. If we lose a mother, her sister becomes our mother. We don’t necessarily have aunts and uncles – we have Big Father, Big Mother who are our own – then Little Fathers and Little Mothers. This was a structure that I was trying to encourage through my involvement with this organization. At the end of 2007 – at the invitation of Dr. Hubble – I came over to the US for seven months and started

working directly with Solo. I qualified as a wilderness EMT and then trained up as an instructor with them. We began developing courses for the African rurals because much of the traditional knowledge and skills of health that would have been typically passed down through the generations have been lost. People had either moved away because of financial needs or had passed away because of this disease. So, we developed what we call the Village Medic Program – and as with Overland – we train by teaching courses and having them instruct with us in the local villages with schoolteachers and social services and clinicians and anyone that has some sense of prominence and permanence in those areas. We have instructors on multiple continents – from the South Pole up to Norway, as far away as Japan, and as close as Canada and South America. The original Solo continues to run courses in wilderness first aid, wilderness first responder, wilderness EMT for outdoor enthusiasts and professionals in North America. But Dr. Hubble and I over the last couple of years have been developing the international educational base by identifying the international need and developing partners in those particular regions who are willing to take it on and make good use of it. Since Covid came and put a stop to our international travel – we developed online resources. Currently, we are in the developmental stage of training trainers in their own individual countries and in their own language. These folks will have the tools and knowledge and skills – so that simply with what’s in their backpack, they can not only save lives but promote healing and recovery.

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DIPLOMACY DC INTERNATIONAL

Finance Minister Smt. Nirmala Sitharaman Participates in the 105th Meeting of the Development Committee Plenary in Washington, D.C. | Union Minister of Finance and Corporate Affairs Smt. Nirmala Sitharaman participated in the 105th Meeting of the Development Committee Plenary in Washington. Items on the agenda included digitalization and development, making debt work for development and macroeconomic stability, and the discussion of the World Bank’s response to the global impacts due to the war in Ukraine. At the session, the finance minister stated that India’s economic growth in the current year is robust and highest among all large economies and reflects India’s resilience and strong recovery. (Embassy of India) Final Event of the Italy-USA Cooperation Project and Bridge the Pond Project | On May 5th, the Embassy of Italy hosted the final event of the Italy-USA Cooperation Project. This project which ran during the 2021/2022 school year, included the Parentucelli-Arzela’ Institute of Higher Education in Sarzana (La Spezia) and Annapolis High School in Maryland.

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Three scholarships were awarded to Italian students who will spend three weeks in October at the “twin” school in Annapolis. In spring next year, three American students will visit their counterpart in Italy. About sixty students from the Parentucelli-Arzela’ Institute and ten students from Annapolis High School participated in the ceremony virtually. Seventeen students from the Walt Whitman High School in Maryland, and two of its teachers, attended the event in person at the Embassy. The project was supported by the Italian Embassy by an in-part contribution assigned from the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Casa Italiana Language School of Sarzana. It was an opportunity to strengthen ties and exchanges and allow students to broaden their reciprocal cultural knowledge, enhance dialogue between the two cities and countries, and strengthen language skills. (Embassy of Italy) America’s Pivot to Asia 2.0: The IndoPacific Economic Framework | On his Asia trip, U.S. President Joe Biden announced that Japan, India and 10 other countries have committed to join the U.S.-led Indo-Pacific Economic

Framework (IPEF). Those countries include Australia, Brunei, Indonesia, South Korea, Malaysia, New Zealand, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, and Vietnam. Not included, at least for now, are Taiwan, three ASEAN member states (Cambodia, Laos, and Myanmar) and China (obviously). But the door to their future membership remains (at least theoretically) open. Through IPEF, the United States hopes to economically engage the Indo-Pacific and counter China’s increasing economic and political influence in the region. With around 60 percent of global population, the region is going to be the main driver of economic growth in the world in the next few decades. According to the White House, the region “supports 3 million American jobs” and is “the source of nearly $900 billion in foreign direct investment in the United States,” while U.S. FDI in the region totaled around $969 billion in 2020. What’s more, the United States is the “primary exporter of services to the region.” (The Diplomat)

PURVEYOR OF THE WA SHINGTONIAN LUXURY LIFEST YLE

+1 703 798 0097 | john@johneric.com Compass is a licensed real estate brokerage that abides by Equal Housing Opportunity laws. Information is compiled from sources deemed reliable but is not guaranteed. All measurements 221 and square footages are approximate. This is not intended to solicit property already listed. Compass is licensed as Compass Real Estate in DC and as Compass in Virginia and Maryland. 3001 Washington Blvd., Suite 400, Arlington, VA 22201 | 703.822.7400

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EUROPE

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The other day, an old friend whom I hadn’t heard from in a while, texted me: “Wait a minute, you’re living on a farm in Southern Spain?” “That’s right,” I responded. I have to admit that, even after two-plus years, the unreality of it all still catches me by surprise…in a good way. It wasn’t very long ago that my daily life was all about ‘final sketch review’ meetings in a downtown Los Angeles fashion studio; or stressful, 11th-hour marathons managing a sewing team to complete apparel samples in time for a New York trade show. Cut to the present, where days on our Spanish “Finca” (farm) are taken up with collecting fresh eggs from the gallinas (hens); flipping two rooms for the next arrivals of our guests, picking fruit from our orchard; stripping bamboo for a new DIY structure; and–wait, what’s this? --there’s a problem with the solar panel inverters and the electricity may fizzle out overnight? I’d better have my handy better half check on that! The story goes like this: I met my husband, Wilco, while we were both traveling abroad in southeast Asia, in 2013. I had quit my demanding, fast-paced fashion designer job because I was itching to get out of the L.A. work-grind bubble and see a world I was worried I’d never get a chance to explore. Not that long after we met and explored more of the Far East together, Wilco eventually moved from his home in Rotterdam to Los Angeles, where we got married and worked hard for another five years. Somewhere amid those years we seized upon the idea of running a small bed-and-breakfast. Aside from the adventure of it all, we saw it as an opportunity for a quieter, higher-quality life, with the freedom to travel more. A European destination made the most sense–with Wilco’s EU citizenship, it would be relatively easy to gain working and living status there as a married couple. Wilco narrowed our search down to southern Europe, as his biggest “must-have” was significantly better weather than his native Netherlands. So, we settled on the sunshine surrounding the Mediterranean.

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AN AMERICAN IN

Andalucía BY ERIN FARR

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In 2019, we condensed our stateside life into six boxes that we shipped off to the Netherlands for storage at Wilco’s family home. That kicked off what would be a solid year of traveling. The idea was to enjoy some well-earned vacation, but also to scope out what we considered sensible places to start our B&B. In the beginning, we had our hearts and minds set on Portugal. Although we didn’t end up there, one of the best months of my life was spent living in a converted sleeper van as we made our way down Portugal’s rugged but beautiful coast. Nowadays, most of our guests ask us why we chose this rustic farm above Spain’s Costa del Sol to settle in. Simply put, we chose it based on a feeling. Or, I guess, you could call it intuition… It was a Sunday in Tarifa, a small seaside village about an hour’s drive from the village of Casares, the outskirts of which is where our farm is located. We spent that memorable afternoon on a sunny terrace along the main street. We were sitting there sipping cervezas, people-watching as the village teemed with happy families engaged in their own Sunday leisure. A more broadened property search from there led us to the intersection of Cádiz and Málaga provinces. We’d never heard of Casares before that, but, in hindsight, it was nearly everything we were looking for. Our bed and breakfast dream finally had a home.

Perched on a dramatic hilltop, the white-washed, red-tileroofed village of Casares overlooks the Mediterranean, which is just a few klicks down a winding, picturesque two-lane road. Elevated and completely surrounded by steep green hills and, though, often breezy, there’s a certain peacefulness to it. Will and I, along with our dog, Oscar, often spend a Saturday hiking one of several trails that end right in the village. We’ll enjoy a bebida (beverage) around the historic central fountain, the beating heart of the town. Local grandfathers–“abuelos”--line the benches in a noisy chat fest, their daily ritual. Kids kick a soccer ball to one another. Women queue up at the mini-market eager to buy a loaf or two of their amazing fresh-baked bread. These are the “small-town” moments that make me smile in agreement with our life-changing decision. A short walk from Casares center is Restaurante Sarmiento, a modern culinary experience, maybe not so expected in the small village. Two brothers have taken their traditional, family-run restaurant and elevated it to offer local meat dishes that are aged and grilled to perfection. A house special includes succulent grilled goat that’s sourced from the herds roaming the mountains in your view. (In fact, Casares is also known for its goat cheese!) Sarmiento’s open air dining terrace offers the best view of Casares. From any glimpse, dining guests can observe a buitre (vulture) flying just above their eye level. A huge griffon vulture colony resides in the encom-

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passing Sierra Crestellina Mountain range, the beautiful peaks that dominate the view. Did I mention that Morocco is in that skyline as well? The African port city, Tangier, is only a short ferry ride away, across the narrow Strait of Gibraltar at the mouth of the Mediterranean. Casares is just a small, sweet dose of Andalucía’s charm. Another quality of this region that attracted us (and millions of other travelers) is the variety of things to see and do, all relatively close-by. A visit here offers lucky travelers a trifecta of enticements–the mountains, the sea, and the quaint villages–all rolled into one destination. The Costa del Sol remains a beachgoers’ paradise, dotted with lively bars, as well as bike and SUP rentals in every seaside town. (Estepona has become one of our favorites–don’t forget to put it on your list!) Leaving the beaches and winding up along the scenic mountain roads, travelers can spend their entire holiday visiting the many “pueblos blancos,” the whitewashed villages that Andalucía is so well-known for. Our guests almost always plan a stop in the historic city of Ronda; as well as the artistic villages of Gaucín and Jerez de la Frontera, where flamenco music and sherry production are the orders of pleasure and business. Travelers also love to

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cross the Spanish border into nearby Gibraltar, which is just 35 minutes from Casares. Here, the British territory bustles like a displaced London borough, all situated under the famous, jurassic-era limestone rock that some consider one of the world’s great wonders…How’s that for contrast? Our Finca, which we’ve dubbed “The Wild Olive Andalucía,” is an exciting new chapter of our life now. Situated in the Casares “campo” (countryside), our four-guest-bedroom farmstay is a lovely rural escape. We are completely off-grid, relying on the Spanish sun for electricity and the well for our water supply. Nearly 200 years old, the Finca’s build is a charming, romance-inducing bit of trivia that happens to involve a mega-measure of regular maintenance. It takes a different set of skills and presence of mind to live and work in this manner, forsaking a lot of “city-life” comforts and resources that I once took for granted. The challenge of operating the farm as a business and doing so in a country that’s largely foreign to us can be overwhelming at times. “Hablas Ingles?” Language barrier! And, as anyone can imagine, attempting to get our business up and running during the pandemic was tough. But in the end, it makes the compliments our guests from all over the world give us as they depart all the more

meaningful. When we say farewell after their summer holiday and they tell us it was their best trip ever . . . it’s incredibly rewarding to think we’ve brought them this bit of joy with what we’ve created (with Mother Nature’s help, of course). Apart from our busy days during the high season at The Wild Olive, life in Andalucía feels slower and more carefree. The cultural priorities, here, remain focused on family and relationships. Taking a long, leisurely paella lunch to really savor, then a siesta before heading back to the next task. Working to live and not the other way around. While our paychecks may not amount to what they used to, we have a different set of riches here. The benefit of free time to enjoy the stunning natural beauty of this region. And if, say, on a random Wednesday, after a trip to stock weekly groceries, we feel like popping into our favorite chiringuito (beach bar) for a beer and tapas, we have the freedom to do just that. The demands on us are still there, of course, but they’re different, and far less intense. A common joke about the Andalusíans is that their favorite saying is “Mañana, mañana!” As in, no rush, relax, it will get done when it gets done. Perhaps it’s too difficult a culture shift for some to live here, especially those accustomed to the U.S.’s frenetic pace. In the time I’ve lived here, I’ve come to

believe that the Spanish have really figured it out. “Mañana” has its roots in something meaningful and manageable, something worth striving to enjoy. Give it a try on your next holiday.

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THE TOP 5 FAMOUS COFFEEHOUSES IN VIENNA Coffeehouses are part-and-parcel of Viennese life and one of the most-known cultural aspects of the city. It is difficult not to find a good cup of coffee in the city. If you are in Vienna, stop by one of these houses for not only a treat but some history… CAFÉ CENTRAL A tourist destination – as both Trotsky and Freud frequented the establishment – it is easily spotted because of the long lines outside its door. The coffee here is wonderful as is its interior architecture. Herrengasse / Strauchgasse, 1010 Vienna. CAFÉ SACHER A top list of Viennese coffeehouses would be remiss if it didn’t include the Sacher. This café is the home of the original Sachertorte cake, so visitors get double bang for the buck. An amazing cup of coffee and a piece of the cake from its original site. Philharmoniker Str. 4, 1010 Vienna. CAFÉ PRÜCKEL First opened in 1903, the café reflects the long association between coffeehouses and the arts as a theater is located inside. The café is a favorite meeting spot for students from the nearby University of Applied Arts. Stubenring 24, 1010 Vienna. CAFÉ LANDTMANN Opened in 1873, this is the spot where high society goes to see and be seen. It is located next to the Burgtheater and opposite city hall, so it is common to see both politicians and actors enjoy an afternoon pick-me-up. Universitätsring 4, 1010 Vienna. CAFÉ HAWELKA Hawelka is a comfortable coffeehouse and is centrally located between between Stephansdom Cathedral and the Hofburg Palace. Pop legend, Falco, celebrated his 30th birthday here, and other prominent guests have included Andy Warhol, Klaus Maria Brandauer, and Peter Ustinov. Dorotheergasse 6, 1010 Vienna.

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Have you ever had the dream of chucking it all in, moving to Tuscany, and buying a vineyard? If you have, keep reading. John Eric Home has caught up with William Hutchinson, whose family is from and still lives in Tuscany. He owns and operates a bio vineyard outside the city of Pitigliano.

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JEH: Our readers may never have heard of Pitigliano – can you tell us a little more about it? WH: Pitigliano is an Etruscan city. All around this area, you find their gravesites and other remnants of their settlements. It grew when the Orsini family took over the city and decided that they could facilitate wealth and growth by drawing more diverse people to the city. So, it is a rather unique place. JEH: What is your favorite part of Pitigliano? WH: I love how it’s such a beautiful city and it lives in untouched nature. There are no main industries here. It is still an agricultural community, and I find the landscape jaw-dropping. It’s full of ravines and streams and the tuff (pronounced truffo) soil, which you see everywhere, is what they used to build the city. Tuff is compressed volcanic ash, which makes it easy to carve. It is why the city is so different and beautiful. There is a fresh energy here – it is energizing. I also love the old Etruscan paths that wind through nature. JEH: Every Italian town has a pronounced city center where the traditional piazza is the backbone of the community. How would you describe Pitigliano’s? WH: The old city center is now considered one of the most beautiful in all of Italy. It has good stores and restaurants. And a great bar. Which is of course important to Italians. It is where we go each day for our morning espresso. On the weekends, locals meet up for apperitivos and dinner. The area is charming, well kept – there is a lot of pride. JEH: Your family is from a different part of Tuscany, why did you choose Pitigliano for the site of your vineyard? WH: I was in love with the soil type. The volcanic soil. And the structure – especially the acidity – that would produce good wines. There is a certain saltiness that comes out of volcanic soils. Also, a certain tension and freshness in the soil. It leads to a nice sensation in the mouth. Although over the past several years some big Italian wineries have bought land and vineyards in the Pitigliano area, the majority of vineyards are still family-run and sell to local cooperatives. So, in terms of managing and running the vineyard, it means that it is easy for an individual or small team to do. The vineyards here were actually developed in a very traditional way, when individual families ran them. JEH: One can only imagine all the work involved in running a vineyard. Can you tell us a bit more about your experiences? What is it like to run a Tuscan vineyard? WH: There is no doubt, it is a lot of work. From pruning and everything else that needs to be done to take care of

the vines – leaf dropping, bunch (grape) dropping, shoot thinning – to spraying the vines for disease prevention. I am a bio vineyard and so use only purely organic products. Then there is the mowing and the planting. A constant routine must be kept up in-between rows to replenish the soil. The trellis systems must be monitored for repair, the machinery all kept in working order, the vineyard must be protected from wild animals, especially boar. The list goes on and on. But I love it. JEH: You mentioned leaf dropping and bunch dropping. Can you explain what that means? WH: Leaf dropping is removing the leaves from the center of the canopy of the vine to allow for good ventilation. Bunch dropping is removing bunches of grapes in areas that are way too crowded. Overcrowding is not good for the grapes. You risk them rubbing against each other and creating damaging and also disease. Disease spreads through density. JEH: How do you decide how many grapes or vines to grow? WH: It is about quality, and you have to decide how much yield you want. Too much yield will reduce the quality of the grapes. Too few and you are creating a product that is very expensive. Some people do have a small yield – they leave only a few bunches per vine – but the cost can be astronomical on those wines. JEH: Can you give us an idea on what it is like during harvest time? WH: Organized chaos. It’s not chaotic in the sense that there is not organization, but it is the busiest time of the year and things move quickly. You don’t get a lot of sleep. It’s about managing the grapes coming in, getting them processed (fermenting), making sure there is enough space. You need to make decisions on quality – remove the grapes that may have a problem. It’s about six weeks of intense work. A very important part throughout the entire process – from vine to bottle – is maintaining cleanliness and maintaining the yeast. The vineyard is a pretty steady job – you control your hours and mother nature controls the rest – but everything has to be really, really clean. You are disinfecting and washing all the time. Then there is the yeast. Yeast is temperamental, and you need to always keep control of it. You have to keep your eyes on it. JEH: After the grapes are harvested, what’s the next step? WH: You are managing the fermentation process. Tasting the wine. It’s the first step to see how the wine is doing. How it is beginning to taste. If there is threat of contamination. With red wines, you need to know what

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point to press. Skin contact, loss of acidity – you need to constantly monitor. Once all the wines have stopped fermenting and are pressed off then you can relax a bit. But just a bit. During this stage, you always want to make sure that the tanks are full and monitored. In the tanks you have to manage oxidation and the naturally occurring sulphur levels. Afterwards, you bottle. JEH: When do you know when to bottle? WH: When you do it depends on the wine. Some wines bottle four years later, and some are bottled six months later. Others are bottled after a few months. But it really does all depend on the type of wine. JEH: You also produce olive oil; can you tell us a little about that? WH: Olive trees are way easier to manage than grape vines. Grapevines need constant attention. Olive trees need a little bit of pruning – with them, the less you prune them the better – you can even let them go for a year. The only thing that you might do to olive trees is spray them with a little bit of copper for disease protection. You really don’t need to do much until it’s time to harvest them.

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JEH: How do you harvest the trees? WH: You basically have to shake them. For smaller producers like myself – I use a machine that looks like a set of tongs that mounts on to the tractor – it vibrates, and the olives fall off the tree and onto a net that is placed on the ground. Then, it’s time again for quality control. Checking the olives and making sure to remove any bad ones. Afterwards, they are gently run through an olive grinder/ masher. Traditionally, they were mashed by stone, but now it is a gentle process through the machine. What’s important when producing olive oil is that it can’t ever get too hot. It needs to maintain an 18-23 C range (64-73 F) for a really good taste. That is what is termed cold pressing. Like the grapes, there is a whole process revolving around managing temperature and oxygen levels. But with olive oil, you bottle it as soon as its pressed, as it does expire.

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HOUSTON Everything is Just Fine

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Arriving in Iceland is like arriving to the moon. Many think so – including NASA. In fact, nine of the 12 men who were first to set foot on the Moon in the 1960s and 1970s trained for their mission in Iceland. More recently, scientists visited the country to test rover technology for the mission to Mars. Of course, you don’t need to book a seat with NASA or SpaceX to travel there. You just need to book an airline ticket from your hometown to Reykjavik, the capital of the country. There are many options of touring the country too. Individual driving tours, private tours, group tours – you name it, and you can find your match. And once you are there, prepare for an amazing time. Interested in some ideas to make memorable Icelandic memories? DRIVE AROUND ICELAND IN 14 DAYS. Can you do Iceland in 14 days? Believe it or not, you can. The country is actually not all that big. Two weeks gives you the opportunity to circle the island once without having to rush. By far the most popular mode of exploring Iceland is to drive along the Ring Road and wake up with a different view every morning. There are many itineraries that are found online for you to follow. But note – gas stations are not as plentiful in Iceland as they are in the US. Make sure to keep the tank topped up when you can. SPEND A DAY AT THE BLUE LAGOON. The Blue Lagoon is a geothermal spa located 30 minutes outside of Reykjavik and is the most popular attraction in Iceland, drawing people from across the world. And there is good reason why it is so popular. The lagoon is considered to have notable regenerative qualities because the water is rich in silica and sulfur. A research and development facility on site finds cures and remedies for skin ailments, and silica mud is available for free on the sides of the pool for guests to enjoy a face mask. The temperature in the bathing and swimming area is comfortable, averaging 37–39° C (98–102° F). The lagoon also boasts the LAVA Restaurant, the Blue Café and the Lagoon Spa which means that you can enjoy cocktails, delicious meals, and treatments such as massages without leaving the premises. Saunas, steam rooms, and a small waterfall are also on site. There is also a private room that can be rented for small parties, in which you can lounge in bathrobes and at leisure venture in and out of the lagoon’s waters. If you want an out-of-this-world sensation, travel there in the wintertime. You will experience snow falling on your head while you remain warm and toasty in its waters.

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TAKE IN THE SIGHTS OF REYKJAVIK. Although the capital of Iceland is provincial in nature, it’s incredibly hip and cool. It’s also easily walked. The smallish town is full of great shops, art galleries, cafes, museums, and cultural centers. It is a quick walk down to the harbor to watch bemused puffins. Or another quick walk to the Hallgrímskirkja, known as Iceland’s “official” church. It is well worth spending at least a day in the town wandering around. VISIT THE GOLDEN CIRCLE. Another of Iceland’s main attractions is the Gullfoss Waterfall, located in the Golden Circle. It is one of Iceland’s most iconic and beloved waterfalls. Its name translates to ‘Golden Falls’ and is so cherished for its uniqueness and beauty. The falls are created when water from the Hvítá river flows southward and then turns sharply to the right and down a wide curved three-step “staircase.” It then abruptly plunges in two stages (36 feet, 69 feet) into a crevice that is 105 feet deep. It is a spectacular sight. Also in the Golden Circle are the Geysir Geothermal Area, full of boiling mud pits and exploding geysers, and Þingvellir National Park. The park is an historic site, known for the Alþing (Althing), the site of Iceland’s parliament from the 10th to 18th centuries. On the site are the Þingvellir Church and the ruins of old stone shelters. The park sits in a rift valley caused by the separation of 2 tectonic plates, with rocky cliffs and fissures like the huge Almannagjá faul. The Golden Circle is located about 30 minutes from Reykjavik, and you can tour the area any time of the year. Spring, summer, and fall offer milder temperatures, and the landscape is free of snow. If you decide to spend a night near the Golden Circle during the summer, you’ll have the opportunity to see these places under the midnight sun. In winter, snow blankets the region, offering a unique experience. The water at Gullfoss waterfall continues to run, though there’s snow and ice wherever it’s not moving. This is also a great time to look for the northern lights. RIDE AN ICELANDIC HORSE. Icelandic horses are small in stature but tough in build. They are also incredibly gentle and sweet. There are many spots in Iceland that you can arrange for a horseback riding tour, and it’s a fantastic way to see the countryside (especially if you don’t have access to a car). Icelandic horses are often said to be very easy to ride. The truth is that due to their smooth gaits, it’s very easy to “get a lift” on an Icelandic horse. Because they have extra gaits, tölt and flying pace, there are some fundamental differences in riding. All that you need to remember if you decide to spend a morning or afternoon riding is to keep a straight and balanced seat and use light hands often with very light rein contact.

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ARRIBEAN

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THE TOP 5 SNORKELING SPOTS IN ST. LUCIA The azure waters and rich sea life of the Caribbean are the perfect setting for hours of snorkeling. In St. Lucia, this water activity does not disappoint. Here are the top five snorkeling sites off the island. ANSE CHASTANET BEACH Anse Chastanet Beach is one of the best places in St. Lucia to explore the underwater world. It offers easy access to a coral reef, which is marked with buoys, making it easy to find and safe for snorkelers since boats are prohibited from entering the roped-off area. Snorkelers at Anse Chastanet can view squid, corals, sponges, moray eels, and reef fish, including sergeant majors, trumpetfish, French angelfish, and parrotfish. PIGEON ISLAND NATIONAL PARK This national park is a fantastic stop for snorkelers who also want to do some hiking and learn about St. Lucian history. The best snorkeling starts about 15-20 feet from the beaches. Marine life in the area includes starfish, barracudas, eagle rays, moray eels, and lobsters. ANSE DES PITONS – CORAL GARDENS Set at the base of the iconic Gros Piton, Coral Gardens is an excellent dive site. The coral reef is packed with sea whips, gorgonians, feather duster worms, and numerous reef fish. The site is accessible by boat. ANSE DES PITONS – SUGAR BEACH Also set at Anse des Pitons is one of the best spots for snorkeling – Sugar Beach (also known as Jalousie Beach). It is located on the northern side of the bay beneath Petit Piton and is accessed through the protected marine reserve, which is marked off with ropes and buoys. If you’re not staying at the Sugar Beach Resort, you can take a boat tour or water taxi or purchase a day pass to access the beach by land. MARIGOT BAY Marigot Bay has made its appearance in several Hollywood films. The best snorkeling is off Marigot Beach on the north side. The sheltered cove has shallow waters that are suitable for those new to snorkeling and children. Although there are better snorkeling sites on the island, it is perfect for lessexperienced snorkelers. Here you’ll see coral formations, seahorses, and various tropical fish.

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SNAPSHOT P u er t o Ri c o

An island paradise awaits that doesn’t require a passport, a change of money, or a long flight. Bienvenido a Puerto Rico! John Eric Home speaks with Manuel Lopez, a native of the island, for Snapshot: Puerto Rico.

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JEH: How would you describe living in Puerto Rico? ML: I would have to describe it living in the best of both worlds. I have a rich European culture in my background, but I am an American – so it is the best of both. In terms of living day-to-day, the main thing about Puerto Rico is nature and the outdoors. Because of our weather, you can enjoy it 365 days out of the year. JEH: What are typical activities that locals enjoy? ML: Of course, the beach. We also have beautiful rainforests where we enjoy trail walks. Believe it or not, there are quite big 4x4 and Jeep enthusiast communities. Off roading is a real thing on the island. The Jeep clubs meet regularly, and they go on off trail expeditions. Other than that, Sunday is the day that many Puerto Ricans hit a new restaurant to try their food. JEH: For visitors, what should they make sure to see or do? ML: You definitely want to stroll around Old San Juan. It is an old city, dating from the 1500s, and is full of history and great architecture. Another hotspot not to miss is Condado Lagoon. It is in San Juan, right in the middle of the hotels. It is a pretty walk and teems with nightlife. It is a new area and is more the touristy side of San Juan. In Old San Juan make sure to go to Plaza de Armas. It is one of the town’s main squares and has a round fountain with four marble statues representing the four seasons. Another great place to take a walk is the Paseo de La Princesa. It runs along the southern city walls of Old San Juan, and the Puerta de San Juan, which is the only remaining city gate, is there. There are restaurants and cafes, street vendors and shops. And the views of Old San Juan and the bay are amazing. Outside of San Juan, I would recommend a visit to Ponce. It is one of the oldest cities on the south coast and has a rum factory that is interesting to tour. Or take a day and go to Aguadilla. The beaches are amazing and so is the surfing. If you don’t mind a ferry ride, definitely go to the island town of Culebra and hang out on one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. It’s called Flamenco.

JEH: What are your thoughts on Old San Juan? ML: It’s so beautiful, and there is so much history. It is a fantastic place to spend the afternoon. If you can catch the sunset, you will be happy that you did. Old San Juan – it is like stepping back into time. There are still streets with the original cobblestones that were transported from Spain. It is rich in history. It is also a good place to eat and sample the local cuisine. It has everything from Spanish, to American to native Puerto Rican…it is a microcosm of cuisine. JEH: How would you describe the beauty of Puerto Rico? ML: The beauty of Puerto Rico is in bursts of color. It’s the colors of Puerto Rico that make it so beautiful. The deep, emerald color of the sea contrasting the brilliant white of an opened coconut. The bursting colors of all the flowers. There is a tree that I love, the flamboyant tree. It blooms in scarlet red and orange and yellow. It’s beautiful. JEH: What is the one word that you would choose to capture the essence of Puerto Rico? ML: An invitation. If you want to experience something new, something different… if you want to experience the best of the Caribbean, then come to Puerto Rico.

JEH: What is your favorite place on the island? ML: Old San Juan. To me – it means that I am home. JEH: Can you please speak a bit on the people of Puerto Rico? ML: The people of Puerto Rico are very friendly and warm. They are open to people of all different cultures and all parts of the world because Puerto Rico is a big melting pot. The Tonce – original natives of the island -- Africans, Europeans, Americans… That is what makes Puerto Ricans so warm and ready to party. There is always a party!

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Turks & Caicos The Things

Dreams are Made of...

BY SEAN O’NEIL

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Sun, sand and fun. The Turks & Caicos Islands offer everything you need and is just a little over an hour from Miami which makes the area readily accessible from the eastern United States and Canada. 30 years ago, few people, outside of avid divers, would have been able to identify the Turks & Caicos Islands on a map of the Caribbean. But since then, the Islands have gone from being an area of incredible potential to being the leading luxury vacation destination in the Caribbean. The model upon which this success has been based has been a simple one – it is home to the most beautiful beaches in the world and has a low-density tourism. THE BEST BEACH IN THE WORLD When you Google the Turks & Caicos, it’s easy to understand the excitement surrounding the country. You are immediately greeted with images of the powdery white sand and the crystal-clear waters of Grace Bay Beach. This beach is consistently ranked one of, if not the best, in the world. Its beauty is the cornerstone upon which the Turks & Caicos tourist market is based. Boutique hotels and luxury villas stretch up and down the shoreline, allowing guests to enjoy the relatively unspoiled nature of the islands. 247

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BEAUTIFUL BY NATURE The Turks & Caicos is aptly marketed with the phrase “Beautiful by Nature” and the guest experience in the Islands is driven by this mantra. Potential guests are often told that if they are seeking an active nightlife, with throngs of people in a nightclub, this is not the destination for you. If your ideal vacation involves relaxing on the beach, sailing along uninhabited Cays, and detaching from the realities of the “real world” then you have found the right place. Having really only started its development in the 1980s, with the opening of Club Med, the Islands slowly grew, focusing on the high-end market. This has evolved over time as the luxury villa market became a primary focus of the tourist industry, allowing guests to enjoy the Islands with the space and privacy that may not exist in a Resort environment. The focus on the luxury product has meant that guests have a choice of venues to suit their needs and their budget, all delivered within a beautiful, natural environment. ISLAND HOPPING While Providenciales and Grace Bay are at the heart of the tourist market here in the Turks & Caicos, they are only the start. From Providenciales, guests can travel east along the uninhabited small cays that stretch to North Caicos and enjoy unspoiled beaches that stretch for miles. These secluded

beaches create a unique experience across the Caribbean, as their proximity means that only a ten-minute boat ride separates you from splendid isolation. Further afield, guests can visit North and Middle Caicos. These large islands carry a long history as American Loyalists, fleeing the 13 colonies sought to establish plantations here (all of which ultimately failed), and the Taino Indians sought refuge in the cave systems of Middle Caicos. Through the work of the Turks & Caicos National Trust, guests can visit both the Indian Caves and Wades Green Plantation to learn about the history of the islands. One of the highlights of any trip to North and Middle Caicos is the stunning drive across the causeway that connects the two pieces of land. It traverses some of the most electric blue waters you will ever see. Shortly after the causeway you will find the incredible, elevated, natural rock formations of Mudjin Harbour and Dragon Cay. One of the most beautiful places in the Turks & Caicos Islands. WALKING WITH DINOSAURS A unique experience to the Turks & Caicos, and readily accessible from Provo (local term for Providenciales), is the trip to see the indigenous rock iguanas of the Islands at Little Water Cay, or Iguana Island. Under the stewardship of the National Trust, the iguana population has thrived on this small Island after the population was wiped out on other Islands through

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the introduction of domestic animals such as dogs and cats. These dinosaur-like creatures are definitely not going to be forgotten after your visit! GETTING HERE Airlift to the Turks & Caicos is as impressive as you are going to see in the Caribbean. With direct flights from all major airports on the East Coast (Boston, New York, Washington, Charlotte, Miami and Fort Lauderdale) as well as Chicago, Houston, Dallas, Toronto and Montreal it is incredibly easy to access the Islands. THINGS TO KNOW • The United States Dollar is used as their currency. • They are in the Eastern time zone. • International flights land at Providenciales International Airport (PLS). • Visitors are required to have a valid passport for entry to the country. • Americans, Canadians and most Europeans do not require a visa to travel here as a tourist. • As of May 1, 2022, there is no Covid-19 testing requirement to enter the Turks & Caicos, although at the time of writing tourists must still be vaccinated against Covid-19 to enter the country. • If you’re traveling with pets, you’ll need a veterinary certificate stating your animal is in good health. • There are two fixed-base operators on Providenciales for private aircraft. Both offer fuel, immigration and customs clearance and other services. OUR FAVOURITES DINING Something Casual – CocoVan – Set in a classic airstream trailer set amongst a coconut palm jungle, this casual restaurant has incredibly tasty food in a relaxed atmosphere and is adjacent to its famous sister restaurant Coco Bistro. Sunday Afternoon Spot – Omar’s Beach Hut - There are few places nicer to spend a Sunday afternoon than Omar’s Beach Hut in Five Cays. With seating that stretches out into the water during high tide, this is the perfect place to enjoy live music and fresh island food. Dreamy Sunsets – Magnolia – There are few places that offer a beautiful view over the barrier reef and spectacular sunsets like Magnolia. Perched over Turtle Cove Marina the restaurant has been a Provo staple for over two decades. Set amongst the original Erebus Hotel, the bar dates back to the early days of Provo’s development. If walls could talk these would tell the best stories on the Island.

Fine Dining – Indigo – One of the culinary highlights of any trip to the Turks & Caicos will be Indigo at Wymara Resort. A carefully thought out and fresh menu is the cornerstone of Chef Andrew Mirosch’s signature restaurant here in the Islands. Offering fish that is fresh, never frozen, and specific vegan and vegetarian options, the menu can cater to all patrons. The two highlights of the week are the Wednesday evening fish fry and the Saturday evening BBQ. EXCURSIONS Adrenaline – Wake2Wake – No one matches the adrenaline of Wake2Wake watersports. Their Instagram account alone is enough to convince guests to travel to the Turks & Caicos. Whether it is wakeboarding, wakesurfing, or diving off abandoned freighters, enthusiasts will get their blood pumping on a day out. Fishing – Talbots Adventures – Nothing like a fourth-generation fisherman to guide you through the waters of the Turks & Caicos. Levardo Talbot does an amazing job, whether that is in high octane offshore fishing for Marlin, Tuna or Wahoo, or quietly stalking bonefish in the flats. Talbots Adventures will put you on the fish. Relaxation – Sail Beluga – The gentle trade winds allow for guests to enjoy quiet days out on Sail Beluga. The 40-foot catamaran provides a uniquely personal and relaxing way to experience the turquoise waters and white sandy beaches of the Turks & Caicos Islands. ACCOMMODATION Beachfront Chic – Wymara Resort & Villas – Set on one of the widest stretches of Grace Bay Beach, Wymara Resort gives guests the best of experiences within a boutique 91-room resort. With two onsite restaurants, an award-winning spa, full services, and access to Grace Beach, it is an ideal getaway. Additionally, Wymara Villas offers larger groups the exclusivity and privacy of a Villa without sacrificing the 5-star service of the Resort. Villas – TKCA Vacation Rentals – Regardless of whether guests are looking to set themselves on the kite surfing mecca of Long Bay Beach or have stunning views of the North Shore of Providenciales, TKCA are available to guide guests throughout the reservation process and while they are on Island. Grace Bay Opulence – Vision Beach – This beautiful 5-bedroom villa sits on 240 feet of Grace Bay Beachfront and is ideally suited for large groups, capable of hosting up to 16 guests. The fully staffed property includes a private chef, outdoor pool table, heated pool, hot tub, expansive beach deck, stand-up paddle boards, kayaks, a private dock space for boat charter pick-ups and access to Vision Kite on Long Bay for kite surfing access.

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BERGERAC, DORDOGNE, 24240 FRANCE

This wonderful 40-acre vineyard estate, complete with three separate houses, is set amongst the rolling French countryside just 15 minutes from Bergerac. With 22 acres planted to vines and in excellent condition, this is a turn-key property with a truly special story. The restoration of the estate has been done with great care and passion. The wines produced from the vineyards, after many years of hard work and dedication, became award winning and now offer a well-loved “terroir” to continue the story. Included within the estate, along with the vines, meadows and woodland, are three houses all of which are in excellent condition. Each house offers four bedrooms with their own private gardens, two of which have swimming pools. To find an estate with three properties in such great condition is a rare find. PROPERTY FEATURES 12 Bedrooms 2 Pools 10 Baths Vineyard 8,500 Square Feet Woods PR: AM1013 ANTHONY MACKLE INDEPENDENT AGENT anthony@maxwellbaynes.com +33 6 71 45 59 03 https://maxwellbaynes.com/

SAINT-ÉMILION FRANCE

Magnificent early 19th Century villa in south-west France. This beautiful property is located on the banks of the River Dordogne just 10 minutes from the UNESCO village of Saint-Emilion and 30 minutes from Bordeaux. Extremely private, set amongst 1.2 hectares of lush gardens, the property has uninterrupted views of the river. Formally a hunting lodge, in a “Style Directoire”, the property is made up of three floors and has been fully renovated to an exceptional standard, whilst maintaining character and period features. The property offers 390m² of spacious living and boasts generous room sizes and quality finishes with four bedrooms, three bathrooms, three reception rooms and a professional kitchen. The enclosed courtyard garden with heated plunge pool is simply stunning. An impeccable, turn-key home just a short distance from the world-famous vineyards of SaintEmilion. PROPERTY FEATURES 4 Bedrooms Pool 3Baths Gym 3,200 Square Feet PR: AM1007 ANTHONY MACKLE Independent Agent anthony@maxwellbaynes.com +33 6 71 45 59 03 https://maxwellbaynes.com/

23, RUE DU CHÂTEAU LAUZUN, FRANCE, 47410

This magnificent estate in south-west France includes a carefully restored 15th century castle, once owned by a French general who fought beside George Washington at the Siege of Yorktown in 1781. Built in 1450 the Chateau is a rarity of built art, officially classified as a ‘Monument Historique.’ Delicately restored by expert craftsmen to honor its past while welcoming modern living, the careful renovation includes Avignon floor tiles, authentic hand-blown glass windows from the masters of Saint-Gobain and majestic marble fireplaces. Modern additions include a grand kitchen framed by a glazed gothic arch and a stunning stone swimming pool. With a total of 10 bedrooms and 6 bathrooms the 6500 ft2 property provides flexible accommodation for a comfortable family home or hospitality project. Set in 10 acres of grounds this is an opportunity to purchase a slice of European history. PROPERTY FEATURES 10 Bedrooms Pool 6 Baths Stables 6,500 Square Feet PR: AMDA1001 ANTHONY MACKLE Independent Agent anthony@maxwellbaynes.com +33 6 71 45 59 03 https://maxwellbaynes.com/

COSTA D’EN BLANES MALLORCA

This newly built villa is in prime location in Costa d’en Blanes and offers unbeatable views of the sea and the southwest coast of Mallorca. The light-flooded villa offers a unique opportunity to acquire a high-quality property in a quiet central location. The villa offers five bedrooms, four bathrooms and a very spacious, open-plan living/dining area with adjoining kitchen spread over three floors. In the basement there is a utility room, a technical room, a living area, two bathrooms and a fitness area with sauna and steam bath. The outdoor area impresses with a large swimming pool and spacious, partially covered terraces. PROPERTY FEATURES 5 Bedrooms 4 Baths Private pool

BEQO HOTI CEO info@shazarealestate.com (+46) 20 660 612 https://shazarealestate.com

LOT 27 DE LA ALEGRÍA PEDREGAL CABO SAN LUCAS

Perched cliffside in beautiful Pedregal, welcome to Villa La Favorita. This is the perfect location to enjoy the whales or watch the birds as they soar above the waves crashing against the rocks below. The expansive terrace offers outdoor living at its finest. As part of the luxurious Pedregal community in Cabo San Lucas, you have 24/7 security, a semi-private beach, tennis courts, a spa, and only 5 minutes to the Cabo Marina. Villa La Favorita La Favorita currently rents between 150-175 nights annually and continues to be a favorite destination of Cabo visitors year after year.

PROPERTY FEATURES 5 Bedrooms 5 Baths 1 Half Bath 5,380 Square Feet Bar Bbq Area

Deck Fountain Hot Tub/Jacuzzi Patio Infinity pool

NICK FONG Owner and Broker +1 619 831 2000 info@ronival.com www.findmexicohouses.com

ONE & ONLY MANDARINA PUERTO VALLARTA NAYARIT

Above the One & Only jungle canopy with incredible 360 views, Estate Villa 17 has one of the most expansive floor plans in the One & Only Mandarina Private Homes collection. Estate Villa 17 is an eight-bedroom home situated on two lush, hillside homesites. Entry stairs lead past a raised, natural stone garden to the soaring, open-plan great room. PROPERTY FEATURES 8 Bedrooms 9 Baths 2 Half Bath 18,912 Square Feet Jetty Beach Club Spa, Kids Club,

Carao Restaurant Alma Restaurant Canalan Beach Club Polo And Equestrian Club Rosewood Hotel

GONZALO DIAZ Director of Sales +3 460 956 5084 gonzalo@lprluxury.com www.lprluxury.com

Jungle Path Estuary, Tennis

ONE & ONLY MANDARINA PUERTO VALLARTA NAYARIT

One & Only Mandarina Villa 16 is a five-bedroom home; private and serene, under a hilltop jungle canopy in the clouds in a secluded luxury sanctuary on Mexico’s Riviera Nayarit. Located about an hour and a half from Puerto Vallarta, One & Only Mandarina straddles three microclimates, with more than 50 species of ancient trees, exotic wildlife and accommodations built to enhance the environment—not reshape it. Ultimate privacy with clever and innovative designs at the One & Only – Mandarina make this the most exciting new ultra lux resort real estate project happening along the Riviera Nayarit, Mexico. PROPERTY FEATURES 5 Bedrooms 5 Baths 2 Half Bath 9,451 Square Feet Jetty Beach Club Spa, Kids Club,

Carao Restaurant Alma Restaurant Canalan Beach Club Polo And Equestrian Club Rosewood Hotel

GONZALO DIAZ Director of Sales +3 460 956 5084 gonzalo@lprluxury.com www.lprluxury.com

Jungle Path Estuary, Tennis

ONE & ONLY MANDARINA PUERTO VALLARTA NAYARIT

Nestled amidst the trees in a lush, tropical landscape neighboring One & Only Mandarina lies an extraordinary residential offering, among the first of its kind in the world. One & Only Mandarina Private Homes is a collection of 54 villas designed to integrate with nature and harmonize eloquently with the landscape. Innovative architecture by Studio Rick Joy draws the outdoors in, while dynamic view lines enrich the living experience, encompassing rolling, green mountainsides and the crystal clear ocean below. PROPERTY FEATURES 5 Bedrooms 5 Baths 2 Half Bath 9,451 Square Feet Jetty Beach Club Spa, Kids Club,

Carao Restaurant Alma Restaurant Canalan Beach Club Polo And Equestrian Club Rosewood Hotel

GONZALO DIAZ Director of Sales +3 460 956 5084 gonzalo@lprluxury.com www.lprluxury.com

Jungle Path Estuary, Tennis

PUNTA MITA RESORT PUERTO VALLARTA NAYARIT

Vill Kupuri 27 is a is fantastic spec home overlooking the Pacific ocean at the Punta Mita Resort is a very special side project by a partnership of experienced high end Mexican developers. This incredible property is surrounded by spectacularly designed homes in an exclusive subdivison of Punta Mita development and walking distance to the superb Kupuri Beach Club. PROPERTY FEATURES 7 Bedrooms 7 Baths Punta Mita Resort Kupuri Beach Club K Restaurant

Surfing Fishing Two Infinity Pools Jacuzzi Internal Artificial Lake

GONZALO DIAZ Director of Sales +3 460 956 5084 gonzalo@lprluxury.com www.lprluxury.com

Garden Roofed Parking For Up to 4 Vehicles, Golf And Tennis

2SHORES LEEWARD PROVIDENCIALES TKCA1ZZ

Define your own Turks & Caicos dream at 2Shores, a boutique beachfront development in the upscale Leeward Community. Enjoy onshore breezes and an easy pace of everyday life within these modern and luxurious residences. With expansive outdoor living spaces 2Shores incorporates the beauty of Leeward Channel throughout the development. With seamless indoor-outdoor living space, well-appointed kitchens, this collection of luxury residences offers everything one could want in a home, plus the priceless peace of mind afforded by the lock-andleave lifestyle, a luxury afforded by TKCA the development’s property management company. With access to a private boat dock each residence is perfectly equipped to give its owner both the beauty of a beachfront home and access to the Islands and Cays that make up the Turks & Caicos, an extremely rare combination of both. PROPERTY FEATURES Pool 5 Bedrooms Dock 5 Baths 1 Half Bath Exclusive Beach 9,424 Square Feet

SEAN O’NEILL Managing Director, The Agency Turks & Caicos +1 649 232 1316 sean.oneill@theagencyre.tc www.theagencyre.tc

GRAND ANSE MAIN RD ST GEORGE’S GRENADA W.I.

What began as a resort has gradually evolved into a living, breathing community of like-minded guests and residents. Our 8 sumptuous beachfront and seaview villas provide a private hideaway among the colors, culture, tastes and sensations of Grenada. Perfect for gazing at the stars, or staring out to sea, our villas offer the luxury and exclusivity of a self-contained home, with all the benefits of a five-star hotel. Just another one of our beautiful contradictions. PROPERTY FEATURES 3-4 Bedrooms 3.5-4.5 Baths 5,076 Square Feet

KANDACE DOUGLAS Real Estate Sales and Marketing Director +1 917 272 4851 kdouglas@silversandsgrenada.com www.silversandsvillas.com

390 BANK STREET OTTAWA ONTARIO K2P1Y5

In the heart of Ottawa Canada’s Downtown, rises a boutique building known as James House. LPH7, Located on the lower penthouse level and featuring extraordinary city views along with ample outdoor space, is the definition of contemporary urban living. The artistic raw loft design of this suite offers a creative palette in which one can explore the design possibilities. Carefully curated interiors including well placed exposed concrete walls, custom kitchen cabinetry with integrated appliances. The building provides residents with a fully-equipped fitness facility and yoga/pilates studio, both opening up to the tranquil landscaped garden behind. Work out to your limit, then grab some fresh air and a little quiet time by the saltwater rooftop pool deck. PROPERTY FEATURES 2 Bed + Den 2Bath 1,233 Square Feet

DEREK NZERIBE derek@hauscollection.ca +1 613 903 7160 https://hauscollection.ca/

197 YONGE ST. SUITE 1809 TORONTO ONTARIO, M5B 0C1

Prime Corner Suite W/South And West Views. Landmark Building Across From Eaton Centre, Wraparound Balcony, Parking And Locker. 3 Bedrooms Or 2 Bedroom Plus Den. High Ceilings And Floor To Ceiling Windows Throughout. Balcony Decking Has Been Upgraded As Well As Lighting. Great Pied-A-Terre With Access To Toronto’s Commercial And Entertainment Hub! PROPERTY FEATURES Guest Suites 3 Bedrooms Party Room 2 Baths Rooftop 882 Square Feet Concierge Gym

RICHARD SILVER Sales Representative +1 416 960 9995 rsilver@sothebysrealty.ca www.torontoism.com

904 REILLY ROAD LONDONDERRY VERMONT

Vermont farm vibe, new house ease: Maple Tree Farm evokes the pastoral calm of old Vermont with red barns and a white clapboard farmhouse in a 90.75 acre setting of meadows, mountains, towering maples, and a serene pond. Completely private, the rest of the world melts away. Feels like a great old farm, but built in 1996 and renovated in the last two years. Total sanctuary close to Stratton Mtn., Bromley and Magic Mtn. and Green Mountain National Forest trail system, shopping and restaurants. The 6 bedroom, 8 bathroom main house is open and bright with high ceilings, wide pine floors, fireplaces, beautiful detail and careful choice of materials and finishes. A three bedroom apartment is above the 10 stall stable. Across the courtyard is an indoor arena, which sometimes doubles as an indoor skating rink in the winter. living (and livable) work of art. PROPERTY FEATURES 6 Bedrooms 7 Baths | 1 Half Bath 7,158 Square Feet Equestrian & Farm Facilities

Heated Pool Trails and Private Pond with Dock Guest Cabin Three Bedroom Barn Apartment

STORY JENKS Principal, Regional Managing Broker +1 802 238 1332 sjenks@landvest.com https://storyjenks.landvest.com/

395 COMMONWEALTH AVENUE BOSTON MASSACHUSETTS

The Ayer Mansion is the only home in the world completely designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany. Standing five stories and fronting on both Commonwealth Avenue and Marlborough Street, this is a rare opportunity to match a buyer’s own vision with a uniquely modern and disruptive design. Entering the great hall, the eye is drawn to the tall fireplace, vaulted ceiling and up the imperial stairs under the proscenium arch of glittering glass Tiffany mosaics tiles. At the top of the first landing and seen from the foot of the stairs, a trompe l’oeil Greek temple reflects unusual depth and light. With designs in place and an award-winning team of developers, builders and architects assembled, this private residence will offer its next occupant the opportunity to reimagine this living (and livable) work of art. PROPERTY FEATURES 6 Bedrooms 9 Baths | 4 Half Bath Galleries & Wine Cellar Fitness with Spa

Terrace/Garden Roof Deck 3-Car Garage 2 Outside Parking Spaces Elevator

RUTH KENNEDY SUDDUTH Vice Chair +1 617 357 0455 rkennedy@landvest.com www.landvest.com

4A WITHERSPOON DRIVE NANTUCKET MASSACHUSETTS

Contemporary style with an air of luxury often affiliated with homes in the heart of town, this mid-island gem is perfectly tailored to suit the needs of any discerning buyer. Centrally located, this home offers unparalleled convenience with proximity to many island shops and amenities. The private yard and patio are ideal for entertaining and abut designated green space, lending an air of seclusion. Offered mostly furnished, 4 Witherspoon is a wonderfully maintained property with high-end finishes and appliances, simply waiting to be your perfect summer backdrop. PROPERTY FEATURES 3 Bedrooms 3 Full Baths 1 Half Bath 2,140 Square Feet

J. BRENT TARTAMELLA Sales & Rental Agent +1 508 901 0191 brent@fishernantucket.com www.fishernantucket.com

751 NORTH STREET GREENWICH CONNECTICUT

Stately brick Georgian home with soaring ceilings sits graciously atop 4.5 magical acres of rolling lawn, rose gardens, terraces, pool, outdoor kitchen, and a beautiful formal pergola for dining. Front to back foyer leads to beautifully proportioned living and dining rooms, and classically beautiful mahogany library. Gourmet island kitchen with large dining area, and adjacent family room with fireplace, form the heart of this home. All rooms on the rear boast French doors marrying the indoors to its exquisite setting. Dreamy primary suite with large sitting room, & bedroom with tray ceiling and fireplace offers two baths and two dressing rooms. Exceptional. PROPERTY FEATURES 5 Bedrooms 6 Baths 1 Half Bath 8,083 Square Feet

JULIE GRACE BURKE +1 203 253 0648 jgb@compass.com juliegraceburke.com

FOUR SEASONS PRIVATE RESIDENCES

30 PARK PLACE, PENTHOUSE 77A NEW YORK NEW YORK

Take your rightful place on the New York City skyline in this stunning penthouse at prestigious Thirty Park Place—The Four Seasons Private Residences, Downtown Manhattan’s tallest residential tower. Combining unprecedented luxury with world-famous service and amenities, this fourbedroom, four-and-a-half-bathroom showplace spans nearly 4,000 square feet. The home features exquisite interiors, two gracious terraces, and incomparable views stretching from One World Trade Center on one side, up to Manhattan’s iconic skyline, and out to the ocean on the other side. Literally, no detail has been overlooked in curating the Robert A.M. Stern-inspired decor, from its glamorous oval reception to its two corner terraces. Exemplifying a truly elevated living experience, the half-floor residence with ceiling heights soaring 12’ and above offers breathtaking views throughout and features the finest materials, conveniences, and craftsmanship in every room. PROPERTY FEATURES 4 Bedrooms 4 Baths | 1 Half Bath 3,951 Square Feet

TONI HABER Licensed Real Estate Salesperson Toni Haber Team | Private Client Advisors toni@compass.com | 917.543.1999

435 EAST 52ND STREET, 11A NEW YORK NEW YORK

This supremely elegant high-floor residence of over 5300 square feet is impeccably renovated and maintained and features spectacular open river and city views from all principal rooms. Grandly scaled, and boasting two balconies perched above the East River, this residence offers a gracious flow ideal for entertaining and the most comfortable living. PROPERTY FEATURES 4 Bedrooms 5 Baths 1 Half Bath 5,315 Square Feet Gym

BAHAR TAVAKOLIAN Founder, The BAHAR Team +1 917 297 7067 bahar@compass.com www.thebaharteam.com

Pool Tennis Concierge Restaurant

301 EAST 63RD STREET, 16F NEW YORK NEW YORK

Welcome home to Lenox Hill in this amazing light filled corner unit on the 16th floor. This apartment boasts both Southern & Western exposure. 16F is a renovated 2-bedroom split layout with an open kitchen, combined living / dining space, foyer and four custom closets including a large walk-in closet. There are windows in both the kitchen and bathroom. The kitchen includes a Carrara Marble breakfast bar, Carrara Marble countertops, tiled backsplash and stainless-steel appliances. Tiled bathroom with marble accents and Brazilian cherry hardwood floors. 301 East 63rd Street amenities: Full Time Doorman, Laundry Room, Bike Storage ($25 annually), Resident Super, Pet Friendly (up to 40lbs) and a landscaped Roof Deck (can be rented privately). The building allows pied-a-terre, gifting, guarantors, parents buying for children and copurchasing (pending board approval). Sublets permitted. PROPERTY FEATURES 2 Bedrooms 1 Baths 950 Square Feet

CELESTE PANDHI Sotheby’s International Realty Downtown Office +1 646 457 8054 celeste.pandhi@sothebys.realty realestatewithceleste.com

MACKALL FARMS MCLEAN VIRGINIA

SOLD

Since its inception, when Artisan Builders introduced the 2005 Southern Accents Showhome, we have been crafting innovative homes to McLean and Great Falls clients. Each year we have striven to offer new designs that are fresh and timeless. Today, after 15 years, we present the 2020 Aspire Showhome, offering a modern design inspired by the Renaissance Architecture of Andrea Palladio. The floor plan brings together everything Artisan has learned over these 15 years from listening to its clients, the market and its architect, Harrison Associates. The spaces are light filled, complimented not only with large floor to ceiling windows, but inspired by Palladio, light from the sky above. The floor plan is open while still appreciating the need for privacy and elegant entertaining, and with the Main Level Owner’s Suite a seamless visual connection to the manicured landscaped rear yard. The museum quality craftsmanship is also a reflection of our experience, and you will notice this in every detail inside and outside the home. We are proud to call the Aspire Showhome, an Artisan Masterpiece. PROPERTY FEATURES 5 Bedrooms 5 Baths | 3.5 Half Bath 9,588 Square Feet

JOHN ERIC john@johnandtrevor.com +1 703 798 0097 johnandtrevor.com

LOST CORNER MIDDLEBURG VIRGINIA

SOLD

Feel a world away from it all in this luxurious stucco retreat just 20 minutes from the historic town of Middleburg. Enjoy meaningful moments and fireside chats with your friends and family in the large, open kitchen and living room with ample space and seating areas for everyone to dine and relax. The kitchen is exquisite with top-of-the-line appliances. Just off the kitchen is a cozy dining room, perfect for family dinners! The 12 ft ceilings and large windows throughout usher in natural light and 360-degree views of the Blue Ridge mountains. Relax and unwind in the main floor master suite offering a seating area, large closet with custom built-ins, private access to the pool and patio, and bathroom with marble countertops, double vanity, and a glass-enclosed shower with “waterfall” showerhead. As you venture outdoors, you are greeted with a large in-ground pool surrounded by beautiful english gardens. PROPERTY FEATURES 6 Bedrooms 4 Baths | 1.5 Half Bath 4,708 Square Feet

JOHN ERIC john@johnandtrevor.com +1 703 798 0097 johnandtrevor.com

4884 WILLIAMSBURG BLVD ARLINGTON VIRGINIA

SOLD

This single-family craftsman-style home is amazing. Five bedrooms, four full baths, one half bath and loads of spacious rooms. Hardwood floors and magnificent windows that allow the home to be filled with natural light. Crown molding, coffered and tray ceilings, tiled bathrooms, gas fireplace, dual zone HVAC system, built-in closet and book shelves are but a preview of what this home has to offer. The open plan design of this home seamlessly connects the home chef with family and friends while cooking. The kitchen, family room and dining room combination are bathed in natural light. A crisp, white kitchen offers Thermador stainless steel appliances, good cabinet space, a porcelain farm sink, and gorgeous granite countertops. The floating island provides not only convenience but additional seating space. The great room conjoins the kitchen and offers loads of space. From this area is access to an outside deck, perfect for enjoying a morning coffee or an evening cocktail. 4884 Williamsburg Boulevard is a home that checks all the boxes. Its location, spaces and amenities offer all that is important to create a true oasis for today’s busy lifestyle. PROPERTY FEATURES 5 Bedrooms 4 Baths | 1.5 Half Bath 5,407 Square Feet JOHN ERIC john@johnandtrevor.com +1 703 798 0097 johnandtrevor.com

5624 34TH STREET N. ARLINGTON VIRGINIA

SOLD

This gorgeous craftsman style home effortlessly brings together modern living and elegance. Full of amazing features, this house is not one to miss. Driving up to this home, you immediately recognize its curbside appeal. Beautifully landscaped, with a driveway created from paving stones, it is simply perfect. The front porch draws you in, and as you enter the home, you are greeted with soaring ceilings, extensive custom millwork, hardwood floors and amazing windows that allow sunlight to flood the rooms. You know that this house is the place that you’ll want to call home. PROPERTY FEATURES 6 Bedrooms 5 Baths | 1 Half Bath 7,226 Square Feet

JOHN ERIC john@johnandtrevor.com +1 703 798 0097 johnandtrevor.com

1600 CLARENDON BLVD, W206 ARLINGTON VIRGINIA

Luxury New York Style Loft Residence in the sought-after Wooster & Mercer Lofts in Rosslyn. This top-of-the-line residence has the best of everything: a gourmet kitchen with top of the line appliances, two spacious bedrooms and spa bathrooms. The in-unit laundry adds to the convenience. This residence is located in a full amenity building that features a concierge, gym, pool, & club room. You are minutes to two Metro station, grocery Stores, shops and restaurants. One parking space in parking garage. PROPERTY FEATURES 2 Bedrooms 2 Baths 1,642 Square Feet

JOHN ERIC john@johnandtrevor.com +1 703 798 0097 johnandtrevor.com

701 NORTH JEFFERSON ARLINGTON VIRGINIA

Welcome to 701 N Jefferson St. This lovely 4 bedroom, 3 full and 1 half bath craftsman home has been completely updated with a contemporary flair and is move-in ready. Amenities abound inside from the gourmet kitchen to the custom built-ins throughout. Located a short distance to restaurants, stores, parks, and a grocery store in the urban oasis of Ballston, with easy access to 66, Arlington and DC, and near several metro stops, bus routes, and commuter routes. PROPERTY FEATURES 4 Bedrooms 3 Baths 1 Half Bath 2625 Square Feet

JOHN ERIC john@johnandtrevor.com +1 703 798 0097 johnandtrevor.com

2555 PENNSYLVANIA AVE NW, UNIT 907

WASHINGTON DC

Welcome to Unit 907 at the sought-after Westbridge Condominium located in one of DC’s most dynamic neighborhoods of West End. This modern, fully renovated unit (2019) is the pinnacle of luxurious city-living in a full amenity building. The spacious and open floor plan allows you to live and entertain in style. The combined living and dining space is bathed in natural light and has a wall of windows which provides beautiful city views and access to the spacious and large balcony perfect for entertaining, enjoy a good book, or dining al fresco. Regardless of how you set up the space you will take in a view of the top of the Washington monument. In life you can rarely have it all, but here at Unit 907 in the Westbridge you can! PROPERTY FEATURES 1 Bedroom 1 Bath 862 Square Feet

JOHN ERIC john@johnandtrevor.com +1 703 798 0097 johnandtrevor.com

4033 27TH STREET N ARLINGTON VIRGINIA

Welcome to 4033 27th Street N, located in one of North Arlington’s most sought-after neighborhoods, Dover Balmoral Riverwood. Simply put, this move in ready home offers a unique opportunity for expansion due to its exceptionally large, flat backyard, a rarity in Arlington. Upon entering, you are greeted with a spacious living room, highlighted by a wood burning fireplace and dining room. The gourmet kitchen is spacious and provides amply counter and storage space, a gas cooktop, stainless steel appliances, an eat-in space with windows throughout. The home has an addition which created a large family room which expands the living space and provides access to the large patio and large fully fenced-in backyard. Nearby are several parks to enjoy along with the Potomac River. It’s hard to believe that Washington, DC is mere minutes away, as this neighborhood is lovely, quiet and very green. PROPERTY FEATURES 5 Bedrooms 3 Baths 3,501 Square Feet

JOHN ERIC john@johnandtrevor.com +1 703 798 0097 johnandtrevor.com

3221 CORSHAM DRIVE PROVINCE NORTH CAROLINA

Sometimes luxury and comfort do not go together, but this is not the case with this warm and welcoming home with details and spaces designed for the way people live! If you like to relax, play, exercise, watch movies, meditate, entertain, cook, luxuriate, garden, tinker, work or study in comfort at home this may be your place! And, the location - best of both worlds - a little bit remote on .67 Acres but convenient to Downtown Raleigh and its suburbs. PROPERTY FEATURES 4 bedrooms 6 baths | 1 Half Bath 7,800 Square Feet Theater

Gym Office Spa-Like Primary Retreat

DEBBIE VAN HORN Founding Agent, Compass Raleigh +1 919 749 6000 dvh@debbievanhorn.com debbievanhorn.com

100 CLOISTER DRIVE SEA ISLAND GEORGIA

Encompassing an expansive 50-acre enclave of largely undisturbed land and marsh nestled between the Black Banks River and over 4,000 feet of pristine beachfront on the Atlantic Ocean, The Reserve at Sea Island offers endless opportunities as a family compound and retreat. It is a gated property within a gated community, within the luxury Forbes Five-Star resort of Sea Island, and includes an expansive conservation preserve protecting the southern end of Sea Island, ensuring that your ocean estate remains a private sanctuary for your family for generations.This unique offering has been designed not just for a family of today, but a family for generations. You have the freedom to build multiple homes – creating a true family compound. Ownership includes a private boat slip at The Cloister offering ocean access. It also includes unmatched, multi-generational memberships to Sea Island Club* and Frederica Golf Club*, a truly unique privilege. *Membership requires application and approval.

COREY MCBRIDE Director of Sales +1 912 209 9400 cmcbride@imiliving.com https://thereserveseaisland.com

150 FREDERICA STABLES DRIVE ST. SIMONS ISLAND GEORGIA

Located within the private 1,700-acre community of Frederica, this limited collection of 21 premier lakefront properties blends the natural splendor of coastal Georgia’s unique landscape with unparalleled amenities. With the offering of Frederica Estates, a select number of families have the opportunity to interpret their own vision of a family homestead. Whether you choose an Estate (approximately 8 to 12 acres), a Grand Estate (approximately 15 to 25 acres) or a Legacy Estate (approximately 26 to 40+ acres), you will enjoy waterfront views and access to the largest freshwater lake in Coastal Georgia, Frederica Lake. Each property offers an abundance of land to create your own family compound with estate homes, amenities, landscape, and any experience that you wish. Along with this purchase comes a unique multigenerational membership offering that is in a class by itself. As an owner, you’ll enjoy privileged access to Frederica Golf Club* as well as the award-winning Sea Island Club*. *Membership requires application and approval.

COREY MCBRIDE Director of Sales +1 912 226 4550 cmcbride@imiliving.com https://fredericaestates.com/

845 HEISTON LANE WINTER GARDEN FLORIDA

Welcome to 845 Heiston Lane, located in beautiful Oakland Park! This stunning J&J custom home is a can’t miss opportunity. Peacefully situated on one of the most tranquil corner lots in the community, this home provides great privacy with direct access to walking trails, community park and golf cart access to Historic Downtown Winter Garden. Features include wood flooring throughout the home, upstairs bonus room and a very spacious open living space on the first floor. Exterior features include an updated back porch/lanai providing great outdoor living space that is SECOND TO NONE with enclosed privacy, fixed shutters for the perfect breezeway, fire pit and overhead string lights. PROPERTY FEATURES 4 Bedrooms 1 Baths 1 Half Bath 2,914 Square Feet 2 community pools Golf cart district,

Club house Walking trials, Outdoor kitchen.

THE MCKEE GROUP Orlando Founding Agents +1 407 948 0658 matt@mattmckee.com themckeegroup.com

495 BRICKELL AVENUE PROVINCE FLORIDA

Fully furnished luxury 2-bedroom with stunning views of the bay and Brickell Skyline. This fully upgraded unit on the 27th floor, features a beautiful upgraded modern white kitchen. The 09 line is of the most coveted units in the building - originally a one bedroom with a den, this unit has been converted to a full two-bedroom unit. Icon III allows short-term rentals including Daily, Weekly, or Monthly and is airbnb friendly. Washer and dryer in the unit. Icon boasts the best amenities on Brickell, including: pool, spa, and gym. Multiple restaurants on property the best lifestyle building just minutes to Mary Brickell Village, Brickell City Center, Metro-Mover and more. Minutes away form Downtown Miami Area, new museum, Miami Beach, Coconut Grove and airport. PROPERTY FEATURES 2 Bedrooms 1 Baths Waterfront Roof Deck Playground Gym Pool

Media / Recreation Room Billiards Room Heated Pool Assigned Parking

LEVI MEYER Director of Sales +1 786 222 5097 levi@compass.com www.compass.com/agents/levi-meyer/

11125 GULF SHORE DRIVE, #1001 NAPLES FLORIDA

Spectacular residence located in prestigious Moraya Bay. Stunning lobby and facilities embrace the elegance of beachfront living. The community is unique with its private club, complete with private restaurant, swimming pool, beach service, 24 hour 7 day a week manned security as well as on site concierge and maintenance. Club membership includes reciprocal privileges at the Floridian Club and Kalea Bay. This 10th floor home is designed by Renee Gaddis Interiors and is being sold turnkey furnished. Your private elevator leads you to a stunning entry with beautiful wood and tile floors. This is the largest floor plan and also has a wrap around balcony that faces southwest, allowing for beautiful days and gorgeous Naples sunsets. PROPERTY FEATURES 3+ Bedrooms 3 Baths 1 Half Bath 4,548 Square Feet Private club Private restaurant

Swimming pool Beach service 24 hour 7 day a week manned security and on site concierge,

and maintenance. Club membership includes reciprocal privileges at the Floridian Club and Kalea Bay

DENNIS BOWERS Principal +1 239 272 6917 dennis.bowers@compass.com www.compass.com/agents/bowers-group/

0 PEWITT ROAD LOT 6 FRANKLIN TENNESSEE

Where country living meets modern design Coming soon is the first homesite within Haven Star Hollow, a gated boutique estate community just minutes from Leiper’s Fork Village and downtown Franklin. Using a combination of water, stone, wood, and glass, renowned architect Roger Charles brings contemporary glass farmhouse architecture that is truly one of a kind. The community’s first release is Lot 6 which will soon host the Haven Star Jewel. This stunning luxury home will be custom built by Mark Poe Builders on an incredible 5-acre parcel that features its own private creek. The masterfully crafted modern glass farmhouse in combination with the Tennessee countryside will be the ultimate haven for residents to enjoy. PROPERTY FEATURES 5 Bedrooms 6 Full Baths | 1 Half Baths 14,096 Square Feet Entertainment Pavilion Options - Bowling Alley, Interior Gun Range, Movie Theater & Bar, Wine Room

Outdoor Options - Sports Court, Horse Barn, Putting Green, Work Area & UTV Parking Guest Cottage

ERIN KRUEGER Team Lead +1 615 509 7166 erin@erinkrueger.com erinkrueger.com

5111 ROB SCOTT STREET AUSTIN TEXAS

What is modernism? A break from the traditional. To Level 4 Studio that translates to a thoughtful balance between beauty and efficiency by means of purposeful design. At 5111 Rob Scott, Level 4 has created a triptych project; a multi-level dwelling enhanced by the site’s unique topography. Thoughtful spaces and use of natural materials. Multi-levels add character and contribute to the homes modern aesthetic. Green design and photoactive orientation and lighting. Privacy front Courtyard and glass door access to garage as added covered exterior living. Amazing details include cantilevered exterior, custom glass pivot door, custom floating cabinetry, and floating staircase. Gorgeous kitchen features Quartz waterfall island, custom cabinetry, top of the line European appliances including Leibherr refrigerator and built-in pantry for additional storage. Spacious master suite with additional room perfect for study, library or peloton room. Other features include pantry with coffee bar, mud room, and exterior cantilevered deck. Great opportunity for quality finishes and true modern architecture! PROPERTY FEATURES 3 Bedrooms 2 Baths | 1 Half Bath 2,000 Square Feet

LAUREL PRATS +1 512 636 7579 laurel.prats@compass.com theprivatecollectiveaustin.com

2960 BLACKTHORN DRIVE PROSPER TEXAS

Welcome Home to Gentle Creek Estates. This property has been decorated and upgraded to perfection! A large foyer welcomes all with tall double stacked ceiling, oversized chandelier, curved staircase and beams. No detail has been spared—from the marble flooring and designer wallpaper in the powder room, to the custom draperies and plantation shutters throughout the entire home. Create memories in the outdoor living space with fireplace, Hauk pool and travertine pool decking. Primary bedroom with large ensuite + closet and guest suite with walk-in shower are both located on the first floor. Second floor includes two additional bedrooms both with ensuite, wet bar, game room, and media room with oversized screen +7.1 surround sound. True 3-car swing garage. PROPERTY FEATURES 4 Bedrooms 4 Baths | 2 Half Bath 4,665 Square Feet Pool

Media room Game room Golf course community

JODI HESS & SHANNON BEITCHMAN Co-Founders: Dallas North Group +1 773 339 0442 jodi.hess@compass.com www.dallasnorthgroup.com

1112 S TRACY AVENUE BOZEMAN MONTANA

Luxurious Bozeman Sanctuary. It was with detailed collaboration between the owner, interior designer & Yellowstone Traditions (YT) that all interior finishes were executed in this luxuriously customized, condo just off Bozeman Creek & Bozeman’s downtown trail system. YT provided a fully specialized interior package, customizing the floor plan from its basic shell with an extensive list of premium finishes that include: a mechanical system w/ radiant in-floor heat, AC, custom lighting fixtures w/ Lutron lighting control system, hidden ceiling speakers, leather paneling & venetian plaster walls, solid oak herringbone flooring & concrete floors, hand-glazed tile work throughout, marble tub deck & shower, infrared cedar sauna, wood burning fireplace & modern gas fireplace, a premium integrated appliance package, custom cabinetry throughout, marblecolored concrete & soapstone countertops, bronze kitchen sink & unlacquered brass plumbing fixtures throughout -- both exceptional & exquisite! PROPERTY FEATURES 2 Bedrooms 2 Baths | 1 Half Bath 2,330 Square Feet

POLLYANNA SNYDER Managing Broker | Engel & Völkers - Bozeman Montana +1 406 600 2477 pollyanna.snyder@evrealestate.com www.bozemanrealestatemt.com

400 S FRONTAGE ROAD E UNIT #406 VAIL COLORADO

Residence #406 is the only 5 bedroom penthouse in the Altus project, and features: 4 bedrooms on the main level, including two lock-offs, and the master bedroom suite on the upper level. This penthouse is situated on the corner of the building, with 11’ ceilings, and an 8’-deep 22’-wide deck off the master bedroom and great room, which is accessible through two 3-panel great room doors (10’h X 11’w). The master suite on the upper level features a private hot tub and fire pit, as well as incredible views of the ski mountain and Gore Range. Altus Vail sets the new standard for mountain home living in Vail. As one of the most significant new projects in Vail Village in over ten years, owning at Altus means you will enjoy the ultimate modern homeownership experience. PROPERTY FEATURES 5 Bedrooms 5 Baths | 2 Half Bath 3,030 Square Feet

STAN KNISS +1 303 324 5681 stan@slaterea.com slaterea.com

1245 W BUGLING ELK TRAIL JACKSON WYOMING

The iconic Gros Ventre and Snake Rivers, the muse of adventurers and solace seekers alike, frame this idyllic retreat within an expansive 128 acres of pristine Jackson Hole landscape and 1.2 miles of Gros Ventre River frontage across three parcels beneath the backdrop of the Teton Mountain Range. This property stands amongst mature conifers, flourishing old growth cottonwood trees, and a diverse array of wildlife all found within Grand Teton National Park’s stunning ecosystem. Experience this land and residence that reflects a private version of the World Heritage site that lies just a few miles down the road. Bugling Elk, an estate enshrined in the untamed grandeur of the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone caldera, offers a rare opportunity to call this remarkable place home. PROPERTY FEATURES 9 Bedrooms 9 Baths | 2 Half Bath 15,056 Square Feet Guest Home Pond Acreage

River Access Sun Room Multiple Sitting Rooms Large Great Room Teton Views

GRAHAM FAUPEL MENDENHALL & ASSOCIATES +1 307 690 0204 gfm@compass.com grahamfaupelmendenhall.com

6160 W LAZY H ROAD WILSON WYOMING

This pristine site alone astounds, and yet, the house itself—with its immaculate custom design spanning more than 10,000 sq.ft.—wins the hearts of all who visit this rare 48.89-acres estate. A prime parcel within Crescent H, the property offers access to the ranch’s the world-class amenities spanning fly fishing, wilderness trails, and access to National Forest. A true Jackson Hole masterpiece, the home is sheathed in heart redwood and inside, cherry, with seamless artisan finishes throughout the main house, apartment, and separate guest home. PROPERTY FEATURES 6 Bedrooms 6 Baths | 2 Half Bath 10,242 Square Feet Guest Home Guest Apartment

Gallery Walls Pond, Access to Private Fishing & Walking Trails Art Storage Humidity Controlled

GRAHAM FAUPEL MENDENHALL & ASSOCIATES +1 307 690 0204 gfm@compass.com grahamfaupelmendenhall.com

2782 ANDREW DOUGLAS FLAGSTAFF ARIZONA

Luxury mountain living at its absolute finest, this custom-log home is in the sought-after community of Forest Highlands. Carved and set gently amid granite boulders, pines and aspens, this luxury king-log home stands on a premier lot beside the 7th tee with spectacular prized views of the San Francisco Peaks. PROPERTY FEATURES 4 bedrooms 5 baths 6,100 Square feet Clubhouse Golf

Playground Pool/Spa Recreation Center Tennis Court Trails

CHAD DRAGOS +1 928 890 9155 chad.dragos@theagencyre.com luxuryflagstaff.com

210 E COCONINO DRIVE GILBERT ARIZONA

This impeccably crafted estate blends breathtaking aesthetics with versatile functionality, creating the ideal residence to enjoy the sweetness of life only Circle G provides. Featuring an impressive 5 bedrooms, 5 bathrooms, and 2 additional spaces for endless flexible use. An immaculate interior boasts gorgeous coffered ceilings, generous walk-in pantry, chef’s kitchen, oversized plank wood tile, designer lighting, beautiful iron front door, and designer touches throughout. The spacious backyard is ideal for sports and entertainment offering an oversized yard, pool, water slide, waterfall, outdoor fireplace, plenty of mature citrus trees, and RV gate. Privacy, beauty, and functionality are at the forefront of everything this home provides. PROPERTY FEATURES 5 Bedrooms Waterfall 5 Baths Outdoor fireplace, 4,160 Square Feet Mature citrus trees Pool RV gate Water slide

NICOLE KOBRINSKY +1 480 487 4534 nicole@nicolekobrinsky.com www.nicolekobrinsky.com

9115 W LAKE BLVD HOMEWOOD CALIFORNIA

A striking, intimate gated estate on Lake Tahoe’s stunning West Shore with a 278’ white sand beach along with a 172’ pier, 12k# boat lift and 4 buoys. Three homes with grand entertainment capability offer extended privacy with meandering paths to each. The first thing you see on entry to the main home is our beautiful Lake Tahoe. Built for lifestyle, this residence envelops you in the warmth of beautiful woods, evoking dreams of family gatherings in this open living/dining/kitchen and family room beyond. PROPERTY FEATURES 11 Bedrooms 7 Baths | 1 Half Bath 10,343 Square Feet

TRINKIE WATSON Lake Tahoe Regional Broker +1 530 582 0722 twatson@chaseinternational.com www.laketahoeluxuryestates.com

521 BADGER STREET HEALDSBURG CALIFORNIA

SOLD

Healdsburg at its finest! Cutting edge modern architecture completed just four years ago. Quality construction offers high ceilings, light filled interiors and exquisite finishes. Located just north of the downtown area, this property is one-of-a-kind! PROPERTY FEATURES 3 Bedrooms 2 Baths | 1 Half Bath 2,110 Square Feet

BOB PENNYPACKER +1 707 799 6032 bob.pennypacker@sothebysrealty.com www.bobpennypacker.com

57 DIABLO CREEK PLACE DANVILLE CALIFORNIA

346

JOHN ERIC HOME

Feel the warm and welcoming embrace of this masterfully-crafted home in one of Danville’s more coveted neighborhoods featuring impeccable Hetherwick Hutcheson interior design throughout the two-level, about 4,900 square feet of living space. Stunning formal rooms, a 1,500-bottle, temperature-controlled wine tasting room/cellar, an executive office, an enticing chef’s kitchen, expansive family room with an indoor/outdoor walk-around wet bar, a fabulous bonus/home theater room, and a view balcony off the sumptuous primary retreat leave little to be desired. Celebrate the seamless flow to a fabulous outdoor entertaining mecca with pool, spa, and kitchen with built-in BBQ peninsula all wrapped in a lush edible garden scape with scenic hillside views. Located in the San Francisco Bay Area. PROPERTY FEATURES 4 Bedrooms 4 Baths 1 Half Bath 4,897 Square Feet

JIM WALBERG & ANN MARIE NUGENT Luxury Estates & Equestrian Properties +1 925 260 8883 annmarie.nugent@compass.com TheBayAreaTeam.com 347

51 PIXLEY STREET SAN FRANCISCO CALIFORNIA

51 Pixley is central to Cow Hollow’s best shopping, dining, and entertainment. The main level hosts all the entertaining spaces: an expansive living area that opens to a formal dining room, a laundry and powder room, additional family room, and the quintessential chef’s kitchen with SubZero fridge and Wolf stove. Upstairs hosts the 3 bedrooms and 2 full baths shown in tax records. The grand primary suite features a spa-like bath with Euro bidet, custom walk-in closet, built-in storage, private balcony and roof access, and an office alcove. The attached garage offers 2 car side by side parking and access to an additional flex room that could be 4th bedroom, gym or office, full bathroom, storage space, and private yard. PROPERTY FEATURES 4 Bedrooms 3 Baths 1 Half Bath 2,130 Square Feet

KEVIN WONG Broker Associate +1 415 290 2927 kevin.s.wong@compass.com kevinswong.com

181 FREMONT, RESIDENCE 63A SAN FRANCISCO CALIFORNIA

Masterfully designed by the world-renowned team at ODADA, 181 Fremont’s Residence 63A is an exquisite showstopper. Wrapped in floor-to-ceiling windows with sweeping bay and city views, the 1,882-square-foot 3-bed, 3.5-bath residence’s sophisticated, airy feel is established in the gracious foyer and carries throughout the home. A mostly white color palette, along with floors finished in pale smoked oak, creates a serene effect. This one-of-a-kind corner residence with custom features throughout is move-in ready and available for private tours by appointment. Residents have access to 181 Fremont’s exclusive Residents’ Club. Spanning an entire floor it includes multiple lounges, a piano bar, a state-of-the-art fitness center and yoga studio, a wraparound outdoor terrace with 360° views, and more. PROPERTY FEATURES 3 Bedrooms 3 Baths 1 Half Bath 1,882 Square Feet

CARMEN LEGARDA Director of Sales +1 415 282 0888 carmen@181fremont.com 181fremont.com

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KRIS HUNNICUTT Vice President 703-851-0955 Mobile/Text NMLS ID 187113 A Billion Dollar Producer khunnicu@firstsavings.com

First Savings Mortgage NMLS ID 38694 8444 Westpark Drive The Fourth Floor McLean, VA 22102

John Eric Home Magazine | July-Sept | 2022 | Travel Edition

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