AAJ Newsletter as mag test 1

Do you know the Miyar Valley?

(India, Garwhal)

In preparation for a feature article on India's Miyar Valley (to be published in the 2010 AAJ), we are compiling all the historical reporting from past AAJs and placing them in the Miyar Valley section of the AAJ Online (recent years are still incomplete).

We're also reaching out to climbers who've been there and who might be willing to help tell us, a) which routes are missing, b) the names of peaks, and c) make Google Earth placemarks for these peaks. Please let us know if you'd like to participate. And thanks from Lindsay and John! (to read more, click the phot o)

Yangmolong (6,066m), attempt (China, Sichuan Province, Shaluli Shan)

By Dave Wynne-Jones, Alpine Club

In 2007 Dick Isherwood, Peter Rowat, and I attempted Yangmolong (AAJ 2008). In SeptemberOctober 2009 we returned with Derek Buckle to explore the northern approaches. We traveled up the Sanchu River valley and stayed at lower Sanglong Xi, before setting up base camp on the riverside east of Yangmolong, at an altitude of 4,000m. The local people identified the expedition as a suitable target for extortion, which became more serious following several thefts; binoculars, food, a stove, trekking poles, etc were stolen. The binoculars were eventually "ransomed." The police were summoned but tacitly admitted they were unlikely to obtain statements from the local community. For the duration of our time at base camp the support team slept virtually on top of remaining stores and was forced to hire "camp guards" from among the more law-abiding locals.... (to read more click the photo)

Koh-i-Beefy (ca 5,400m) (Asia, Afghanistan, Hindu Kush)

By Joel Fiddes, U.K.

While working in Afghanistan with development projects, I was constantly impressed by the beauty of the Hindu Kush and excited about its climbing potential. Being involved with projects that attempted to promote sustainable development for poor mountain communities, I was frustrated that insecurity in the region was stopping what could surely be a thriving mountain tourist industry, of great benefit to the local economy. Economic development is desperately needed in a region where roughly 80 per cent of young men leave their homes and families to pursue cash incomes overseas, often taking great risks to cross international boundaries illegally. A trek in 2008 to the ruggedly beautiful Wakhan Corridor made me realize the huge potential offered by this one hidden corner of Afghanistan, as an "adventure holiday" destination for those who like to walk the slightly wilder side of life.... (to read more click on photo)

Schweitzerland: Tupalik, Etc. (Greenland, East Coast Greenland, Schweizerland)

By Krister Jonsson, Sweden During four weeks in the summer of 2006, Anna Backlund and I climbed on gneiss walls in the Tupalik area, Schweizerland. We left Sweden in the first week of June and flew to Kulusuk via Iceland. Our food, climbing equipment, skis, and camping gear weighed 105kg, and the flight would have been very expensive if I'd not managed to negotiate a deal with the airline for free baggage. From Kulusuk we flew to a base camp on the September 16

Glacier, southeast of the summit of Tupalik. We'd expected to melt snow but found a stream, which saved much fuel and time. During our first days we reconnoitered and climbed a small peak east of camp called Schartenspitze (1,720m). It was an easy alpine climb, which someone had been on before, as we found a piton and sling though no other signs of traffic elsewhere on the mountain. [Schartenspitze (1,720m) has been climbed by various lines, including difficult Italian and Austro-British rock routes on its south face.] We descended snow slopes easily to our skis, and then had several days of snowfall. Our next goal was Tupalik. We wanted to climb the north face, but there was too much snow, so we opted for a line on the south face.... (to read more click on photo)

Meru's Central Shark's Fin, attempt (India, Uttarankhand, Western Garhwal, Gangotri)

By Andrej Grmovsek, Slovenia

At the end of August, Marko Lukic, Silvo Karo, and I traveled to Gangotri, hoping to climb the infamous and still virgin Shark's Fin on Meru Central. This line has already repulsed more than 20 expeditions, many of them strong teams. However, in 2008 Anker, Chin, and Ozturk reached a point just 150m below the summit, spending 20 days on the wall climbing in capsule style (AAJ 2009). Assisted by beta from Anker's team, we planned to climb fast, light, and in alpine style. After reaching base camp at Tapovan, we used unsettled weather to prepare advance base, acclimatize on the lower slopes of Shivling, and study the face.... (to read more click the photo)

Melanphulan (6,573m), not to summit (Nepal, Central Nepal, Mahalangur Himal-Khumbu Section)

By Wojtek Kozub, PZA (Poland)

Marcin Michalek, Krzysztof Starek, and I from the Polish Mountaineering Association (PZA) arrived in the Khumbu hoping to climb the north face of Melanphulan, above the Nare Valley. During our first two weeks we acclimatized by trekking from base camp in the village of Pangboche (3,900m) to the foot of the face, where we established an advanced base at 5,100m, and then made two trips to Lobuje East.

On the first we reached the socalled False Summit (ca 6,000m, PD). On the second Michalek and I continued on the exposed east ridge to the rarely visited Main Summit (6,119m, D+). This ridge, between the two summits, took 4½ hours and was quite risky due to dangerous cornices. We then rested five days at base camp, before climbing Melanphulan's north face in a round trip of five days from advanced base.... (to read more, click the photo)