House Report Residential Construction and Structures Jonathan Wirjoprawiro - 390261
September 2012 This house report aims to document and explore the processes involved in building a domestic-scale residence; including the pre-construction phase and the permits and drawings involved, as well as the construction stages from start to finish, along with the services and their connections within and outside of the house. Most of the information gathered are from what the builders say, as well as general observation, and further individual research. For the duration of the project, construction sites that we visited are located in: Caroline Springs - Manchester Lane - The Esplanade - Bay Street - Coppin Lane Blackburn South - Barns Street Overall, I found that the builders or building supervisors were often not on site, making it difficult to get permission to enter the premises and/or take photographs. Another problem was with the privately-owned homes that we encountered along the way, with which we were also not granted permission even with the builder present. Furthermore, many of the tradesmen preferred not to be photographed.
In the process of getting a house built, there are several hurdles that has to be passed before the actual physical construction of the house. 1. Planning permit One would first apply for a planning permit in order to build what they want, for example, you would apply for a permit that allows “construction of three double story dwellings, generally in accordance with the endorsed plans...”. This application goes to council and the permit can only be acted on after the plans have been “submitted to Council’s satisfaction”. I attached the application with this document. 2. Permit drawings Site plans, floor plans, elevations. Generally, what council is looking for in permit drawings are the connection of services to the mains, the setback of the house, the height of the house and whether or not it casts a shadow on a neighbouring private open space, overlooking windows, etc. I have attached some of these documents. 3. Builder’s registration For the builder to start building, they also need to send in an application. This application demands that the builders have all the necessary information ready; such as the copy of the Certificate of Title / Approved plan of Subdivision, a bushfire assessment if required, planning permit and endorsed plans, energy efficiency assessment, soil reports, engineering computations, structural drawings, and architectural drawings. 4. Construction program Ideally a builder would also write up a construction program to set up goals and deadlines of when the different stages of construction needs to be done. Although this is very subject to weather conditions and other external factors, it gives a guideline and helps manage the time. An example construction program is shown on the next page.
10 Clear site Establish site Set-out Excavation Concreter (footings) Sewerage Bricklayer (base) Carpenter (stumper) Carpenter (frame) Roof plumber Roofer (roof tiles) Windows Bricklayer (top brickwork) Plumber (rough-in) Electrician (rough-in) Carpenter (lock-up) Insulation Plasterer Carpenter (fixing) Tiler Painter Plumber (fit-off) Electrician (fit-off) Floor finishes House cleaning Hand over
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The first stage in the construction sequence is clearing the site. Clearing the site often involves the demolition of an older pre-existing building, as well as the removal of trees and other vegetation such as shrubs, depending on the situation. Trades involved in this process are usually the demolition professionals who use vehicles and equipment such as wrecking balls, bulldozers, and excavators. Often, they would also need to wet the whole area to minimise the dust that comes as a result of the demolition. We were not able to find any sites that were in the middle of the clearing process, but the photo above demonstrates the result of the process; a barren landscape (not necessarily flat).
After the site had been cleared, temporary services such as fencing on the boundary, and the toilets (shown on the left, at Barns Street) are brought in/installed. On The Esplanade (Caroline Springs), we found a site (Lot 170) that was intended for multi-storey residential apartments. This particular project hired site accommodation from CoatesHire. These are portable buildings that can be equipped with a small office, or a lunch room, or for first aid. In our visit, I saw the surveyors use the office portable extensively to discuss the plans and set-outs, and also to make phone calls. Although I realise these portable buildings may not be used in domestic-scale projects, it was interesting to note their use in construction.
Temporary services also include the electric meter box, and the rubbish bin. Along with the temporary fencing, the rubbish bin is hired to ensure that all rubbish/debris from the construction is kept within the boundary and does not spill onto the public footpath. The electric meter box is used for any tools/equipment used by the carpenter, concreter, and other trades.
Above: the electrical access pit situated along the footpath.
This particular site was for multi-storey residential apartments and car parking space. In this case - as per regulations - they had to excavate an additional trench to fit an underground water detention system. What this means is that they would install a water tank that would control the flow of stormwater out of the house, similar to how a sump works as part of the roof gutter system. This water detention tank would protect against flooding downstream in periods of high rainfall.
The photo above shows the TBM (temporary benchmark) markings on a footpath. This benchmark indicates an arbritrary level that is marked at the start of the construction phase for any new building, from which all other levels would be measured (in metres). TBMs are usually marked on something that is unlikely to change heights or be knocked out of place during the whole construction period. In this case, it might not be a very good idea to put the TBM on a footpath because there is a possibility that excavation work later on could break the pavement - in which case they would lose their TBM (and things become very problematic).
The set-out and establishing the site often occurs after the temporary services have been installed. The photo above shows a tripod as part of the equipment used by land surveyors. This tripod can be attached with a theodolite (to measure horizontal and vertical angles) or an automatic level or transit level (to determine grades, and offsets or any other vertical alignment tasks). The photo on the left shows a wooden stake (one of many) that is located along the boundary as part of the setting out. The labels note the locations of the structural grid in relation to the stake, so it is located along grid 2, and grid A is 2 metres away from it, running perpendicularly. The structural grid then determines where columns or load-bearing walls are positioned within the building, to optimise efficiency.
Theodolite
Transit level
Above: grid set-out diagram/sketch, showing the location of the stake on the previous page in relation to the rest of the grid. Below: a photo of the markings, most of which are also labeled “E2� or something similar (corresponding to the point on the grid) alongside the cross. Most of these markings would indicate not only the location of columns inside the building, but also the screw-pile footing system that they intend to use.
Following the clearing and the setting out, the excavation stage commences. This photo was taken on a site along Coppin Lane. The excavation process involves the earth-moving specialists/excavators flattening the site, which can often mean cut and fill depending on the site. It also involves the excavation of the trenches that would eventually accommodate the concrete raft slab and its edge beams and internal beams. While the setting out and markings help with the positioning and alignments of the trenches, this excavation should be done as accurately as possible, so that the material cost estimates for the concrete are not blown out of the water. As per the sketch diagram below demonstrates, the drawings usually show the beams as being cleanly cut out of the ground, whereas in reality it may differ, thus incurring extra costs on the volume of concrete needed.
Drawings
Reality
This photo also shows the plastic waterproofing membrane that has been spread over the mounds, immediately on top of the compacted sand. This is done to stop the moisture from the earth from affecting the structural integrity of the slab; in the case that water ingress occurs, it could potentially oxidise any exposed steel reinforcement and cause concrete cancer. The purpose of the packing sand is to create a compressed layer that does not shift beneath the slab like normal loose soil would, and the consequence of this shifting would be the sagging of various parts of the slab, which can cause cracks on the slab itself. Note that the timber beam at the edge (used to align the concrete edge beam) is supported by star pickets, and this may not be suitable because those pickets can shift positions, even when held by the additional timber members. For this reason, using timber pickets would be more ideal.
Above: photo of the steel reinforcement mesh. In this case it looked like they were using a square mesh for the slab, which has a lot to do with the regularity/even load distribution. However, if we take a look at the mesh they use for the edge beams and internal beams (photo on the previous page), they used a rectangular mesh. Again this relates to the load distribution along the area, with the primary (stronger) bar running parallel inside the beam. Below: section diagram of the edge beam, showing in particular the position of the slab in relation to the waterproof membrane, the packing sand, and the foundations. It also shows the use of bar chairs in order to properly position the mesh within the concrete, and to help keep it in place while the concrete sets. These bar chairs are typically plastic.
The connection of services to the mains, the placing of the mesh, and the pouring of the concrete occurs after the excavation of the trenches or stump holes, and the latter two are done by the concreters. These photos were taken from a project on Barns Street in Blackburn South.Here, they used stump and bearer footings because it was more suitable for the topography of the site. While raft slabs are ideal for flatter sites, stump and bearers are more flexible when the slope is too steep for a cut-and-fill to be cost-effective. For this project, the concreters hauled a large flexible hose/pipe into the site. After having done the slump tests on the concrete to make sure it has adequate load-bearing characteristics, this hose is connected to the concrete pump, which is connected to the concrete mixer (vehicle), and the concrete is then pumped through this hose to fill the stump holes and strip footings (shown by the diagram below). The photo above (left) shows the concrete after having poured into the stump hole. This concrete would then need to be vibrated to consolidate the concrete and remove air particles that would otherwise make the concrete structurally weaker.
When the concrete has settled adequately, bricklayers come in and lay the stumps, which is soon followed by the carpenters for the bearers (which sit directly on the brick stumps) and floor joists (which are on top of the bearers, oriented perpendicularly to them). With the laying of the stumps, it is important for the bricklayers to remember to insert the steel ties that will hold the bearers onto the stumps (photo on the previous page). The photo below shows that the services have then been connected underneath the house, in the space between the ground and the bearers and between the joists. All the pipes for water and drainage/sewage should be appropriately designed to have adequate fall, and this usually follows the slope of the contours.
Several sub-floor access doors would then need to be put in place for when services need to be connected through the floor later on, as well as future maintenance.
With stump and bearer construction - as opposed to concrete slabs - it is necessary to add another layer of thermal insulation. This is to prevent any excessive heat loss through the floor, and regulate the internal temperature. Any type of insulation usually comes in certain R-values (a measure of thermal resistance), and this contributes to the regulation-required green star rating. These insulation boards are often installed by the carpenters as well, and holes are punched through them where necessary to fit service pipes through. After the insulation is installed between the joists, tongue and groove panel flooring is placed directly on top to provide a continuous floor support, which concludes the structural elements of the floor/subfloor in a stump and bearer construction.
tongue and groove panel
Each of these tongue and groove panels are made of particleboard and have colour-coded PVC “tongues” that can slot into the next panel. The colour coding represents the thickness of the panel - and consequently the structural capabilities. In this case, they used the yellow tongue, which spans 450mm per panel. After having visited the site, it became clear the difference in the feel of walking on the stump and bearer construction when compared to walking on concrete slab. The yellow tongue panels are much more flexible and allow for more ‘bounce’ in every step, unlike the hard concrete floors.
Having installed a continuous surface, the carpenters then have something to work on to start building the main structural wall frames. The top left photo shows the pieces of timber cut down to size for the studs and noggings. In most cases, they would plan the position of the top and bottom plates, the studs and noggings, and assemble it on the floor. Note that the steel diagonal bracing is also applied at this stage (photos on the next page).
The walls would then be tilted up one by one. The photo above shows timber props being used to assist in holding the frame in place while it is connected to the floor. In the photo below, we see multiple walls up, and note that they have taken into consideration the various structural requirements in certain areas; such as the lintel for the openings, and a triple stud where the walls join perpendicularly or for transferring a heavier load from the upper floor.
Steel diagonal bracing for the timber stud wall needs to be tightened so that they are effective in counteracting the lateral loads as well as twisting. In the photo above, we see that the steel is loose and is allowed to bend in and out, which should be rectified using fixings that pull and tighten it. In addition to the steel bracing, plywood sheets can also be used, and they act in a similar manner.
The sketch diagrams on the left show that frame number one is without noggings or diagonal bracing, and easily topples with the application of lateral force. Frame number two uses noggings, and this time it is more resistant to lateral loads, AND the noggings also assist the studs against buckling loads by dividing its length into two. However, this frame is still susceptible to twisting. The third scheme uses diagonal bracing, which counteracts this twisting, and is most appropriate for construction.
The next stage in the sequence is to build upward to the upper floor. In this case, they are using a combination of Posi-STRUT truss system and steel beams to make up the floor structure. These Posi-STRUTs are open-web truss systems that are a combination of timber and steel and engineered for structural efficiency. When compared to timber beams of the same structural strength, they can be a lot lighter and also offer the additional spaces in between that can be used to fit services through.
This photo shows a clearer picture of the Posi-Trusses and its positioning relative to the timber studs. We see that they are more or less aligned at 450mm centres and the loads are transferred downward in direct path, so that the top plates do not experience any unnecessary bending in between the studs, making it very efficient. The right side of the photo shows one of those triple studs mentioned earlier, which carries a heavier steel beam. These steel beams usually indicate an area on the plan where longer spans are needed (as in the case of large openings) and/or if the beam carries another significant load above.
The photo above shows the lintel for the garage. In this case, because of the large opening, they needed a very large steel beam. However, the profile of this lintel allows for brick to be laid on both sides of it, thus concealing most of the steel, for a flush finish, almost as though the bricks were floating. This lintel, along with other steel columns and beams, came on site around the same time as the trusses for the first floor. They were lifted and positioned using a crane, and connected using a combination of brackets and bolts for some areas, as well as welding in other areas.
Above: photo showing an I-beam welded connection to a steel SHS (square hollow section) column. It also shows that the beam sits on the top plates of the walls as well. Below: Posi-Truss connection to the steel beam with the use of waling plates; the timber that sits inside the beam, allowing for a simpler timber-to-timber connection, rather that timber-to-steel, which would require more complicated solutions like brackets for each truss.
When the floor structure for the first floor is built, the construction continues as before; the carpenters install the yellow tongue flooring panels (below), and start building the walls before tilting them up (above). Note the amount of ceiling space that is given with the depth of the trusses (distance from the top chord to the bottom chord), allowing services to pass through.
The roof plumbers then went on to building the roof. On my visit to the site, I started seeing roof truss plans stuck on the walls. The plans show the position and orientation of each truss, distinguishing the girder trusses and the hip trusses in shown in red. The photo below also shows that they have allowed for a small skylight when cutting and installing the reflective foil.
In most of the cases that I saw, the roof trusses came in pre-fabricated, which means they have been engineered beforehand to meet the structural requirements of the house. The roof plumbers would then take a couple of days to assemble it on site. Roof plumbers are also responsible for installing the gutters (and any other roof-drainage components), eaves, and fascias, as well as air distribution systems. This includes the installation ofthe ducts for heating and cooling. They also installed the flashing for the rooves. The photo above shows the party wall between two town houses, with the intention of having a box gutter on both sides. Here they’ve put the flat timber board to go underneath the gutter, but they have not put in the slanted lear boards. This would decrease the durability of the gutter if they forget to, before installing the gutter.
Above and below: photos showing the ductwork in place, connected to the evaporative cooling system on the roof. A close-up of the ducts show that the insides are insulated with glass fibres for thermal efficiency. Note also that these huge ducts fit within/between the timber roof trusses, which is only possible with a hip roof construction. Flat rooves would need alternative solutions.
Above: the next step - for a two storey house, they installed the scaffolding to be able to work on the upper floor. A builder would often spend money to hire and get these steel scaffolds installed on site from a specialist. The photo shows that the vertical steel member latches on to the top plate of the wall, and is bolted at the bottom. Below: aluminium flashing for the roof installed. The flashing needs to employ the overlap-underlap method to ensure that water ingress into the roof structure is completely stopped on the junction of where the roof and the walls meet.
Below: the connection of the roof trusses onto the steel beam, via a waling plate, similar to how the floor trusses were connected, but note that they have not properly connected the roof trusses with the waling plate using metal plate connectors in some instances. Instead, they just nailed them onto the timber, which is not ideal and should be rectified.
The roof tiles then come in to site on pallettes, similar to bricks and other modular elements. Below is just an extra photo, showing the void for the stairwell, seen from the first floor. On this particular site they did not have a safety net or anything like that, which can be very dangerous for the people who work on the roof of the first floor. There is a possibility that they can fall and drop from a two-storey height now.
Before the roof tiles are laid, the tilers installed the sarking; which is an extra layer of insulation (the reflective foil shown in previous pages) that sits in between the top chord of the roof trusses and the roof tiles. After the roof tiles have been transported on site, the tilers would use an elevator belt that they rest on a prop nailed to the roof. This elevator belt would then bring the tiles up one bundle at a time for the roof tilers to start laying them down.
These are some photo examples of what the elevator belt might look like, to bring the tiles from the ground level up to the roof. *These photos were taken from: http://www.hytile.com.au/belt-elevators.php
In most cases, I saw the windows coming in after the roof tiles had been done. These windows came pre-assembled with the frame, so no glazier was needed. Instead, they were just positioned and fixed into the openings. With the installation of the windows, the carpenters would have previously created some shim space to ensure that there were some tolerances for the window to fit in. These spaces would then be filled.
In the event that the windows were put in before the roof tiles were done, there is a chance that they may be damaged, as shown on the photo (left). In this case, it is likely that the window was damaged when the roof tilers were setting up or taking down the elevator belt. Generally, it should not happen, but slipping does occur on occassion. Below: additional photos of windows, right after being put in place.
Sequentially, the bricklayers come once more to lay the top brickwork. In this case they chose to render the upper floor, so the brickwork only went as far as the top of the ground floor. At this stage, they also laid the bricks in preparation for outdoor steps (below). It is much more convenient for the brickwork to come after the windows because the windows can then gives the bricklayers a guide as to exactly where the windows are and where they need to cut the bricks. Otherwise, there is a chance that the brickwork protrudes into the opening more than it should, and this would cover the windows. Other than that, the bricklayers also need to be wary of the location of expansion/control joints. For the bricklayer, the location of these control joints should be shown on the working drawings.
However, the architect needs to know where the control joints should be. Since control joints are there to accommodate the movement of the bricks, we need to know which parts of the walls would be more likely to move and expand (either thermal expansion of the masonry, or moisture loss and intake, or movements in the foundation, etc). Luckily, there are some general rules on where they should be; 1. Where the walls change thicknesses. 2. Where the wall turns a corner. 3. Where there are windows (the shape of the window in relation to the wall also determines whether the control joints are horizontal or vertical). 4. Where the brick wall runs a really long distance - generally a wall should have control joints every ~6m. These control joints should be waterproof, and are generally made out of bitumen-impregnated soft foam strips, which are then compressed by a foam backing rod for a neater seal. The bricklayers would also need to connect the brick wall to the timber stud frame to keep it from toppling over, and this is done by using steel brick ties (below), which they connect by slotting them in between the brick coursework. This is done in regular intervals along the wall, both vertically and horizontally.
Example of control joints shown on the working drawings This is the floorplan for one of the houses on Barns Street.
Meanwhile, on the upper floor, the 100mm polystyrene cladding is put in place over the timber stud frame. The polystyrene in this case also comes in modular sizes, and consequently a fair amount of off-cuts can be seen on site (below). The photo above shows the plastic mesh that is then attached on to the polystyrene in preparation for the rendering to be done soon after.
Above and below: the profile of the polystyrene cladding on the first floor, cleanly cut to fit the windows. Note the steel fixing they used to attack the mesh onto the polystyrene - it works in a similar way as the metal plate connectors used for the roof trusses.
Above: renderer outside applying the mesh onto the polystyrene. The mesh comes in rolls. Below: the render finished on the upper floor. Cement renders are usually a mixed layer of sand and cement, and depending on the desired texture it would have other different-sized aggregates mixed in. Typically the mixed slurry would then be applied onto the wall and finished with a trowel. In this case, it meets up with the soffit and creates a very clean corner.
Next in the sequence is the electrical and plumbing rough-in. This basically means the electrician(s) and plumber(s) come in to install the service pipes/cables inside the wall (in between studs) before it is covered. Below: this white cable seems to be used by the electricians throughout the whole house.
Above and below: the metal fixtures used to align the cables to where the outlets/switches are intended to be. They are nailed to the studs or the ceiling joists.
All the cables are then tied together in a single bunch, and labeled according to each room and switch, which is good practice to organise them. While the white cables seem to provide power, the blue seem to connect to data/telephone ports. In the rough in stage the electricians also drilled holes on the flooring to connect cables underneath. In this photo (above), the ‘X’ marks a point on the floorplan where the kitchen island bench is, and it corresponds to where an appliance (such as the dishwasher) would be located under the bench.
On the top left is a photo of one of the electricians I saw on site; he uses a step ladder to reach the ceiling and continue running the cables through the trusses. Note that he is wearing safety boots on site, like all the tradesmen should. The bottom left photo shows the pipe for the ducted vacuum-cleaning system protruding into the garage. Presumably the storage drum for the dust/rubbish would be in the garage. This pipe also runs along the ceiling and outlets can be found on the first floor.
The rough-in plumbing happens around the same time as the rough-in electrical work. At this stage, they installed all the downpipes, now that the top brickwork as well as the render on the first floor had been done. Along with the electrician(s), they may need to use the access door to get underneath the floor and connect the pipes to the services that run just below the floor joists. I was told that the yellow piping is for gas, and the black for water. Just as an additional note, we saw this guy on site (bottom left). He was the person who installed the security systems around the house. Note that unlike the electrician on the previous page, he is not wearing appropriate work boots, and he is also standing on the very top of the step ladder. Poor effort!
Above and below: the hot and cold water pipes come in to the bathrooms/wet areas and are fitted with the copper fixtures. They use copper because it doesn’t rust or deteriorate, and its malleability can sometimes be useful. Again they needed to access the space under the floor to make the necessary connections to the services.
On the ceilings, the pipes are held down onto the timber with metal fixings at around 450mm intervals, similar to the distance between each stud. It is very important to not have the intervals too far apart because it affects the way the pipes behave when it is under the pressure of the water moving through them. Just like a hose would, these pipes vibrate when water moves through them, and it can become noisy inside the wall, along with potential damage of the pipes over time. The photo below shows a broken pipe through the floor - any number of things could have happened to it. Presumably the plumbers would have to go under the floor and disconnect/replace that section of the pipe at some point.
Once the rough-in plumbing and electical work have been done, the carpenters come back in for a lock-up stage. This stage involves a few different things; They need to straighten the timber stud walls so that it is ready for plaster. Most of the time, the studs and noggings are not perfectly aligned, due to inaccurate framing or because the timber tends to bow slightly off centre. What the lock-up carpenter would do is try to align the wall with a straight edge, and shave off any part of the wall that is protruding inward towards the room. In the case that it bends the other way, they would fill the gaps. This then creates the desirable flush finish when the plaster is applied. Alignment also involves making sure that the positioning of the windows in relation to the wall accommodates the 10mm gypsum board. The aim of this process is similar to when we try to line up the finished floor levels; all the material thicknesses have to be accounted for so that everything sits flush. They also need to create the bath hobs if necessary - bath hobs are the frames that are built around and to accommodate the bath tub. The carpenter would make the timber frame, before it is then tiled over by the tiler (photos above, taken from http://www.baysidetnc.com.au/galleryNew.htm). Once the lock-up carpentry is done, the insulation batts go in between the timber members. These insulation batts are usually made out of fibreglass, and like other insulation goods, they come in standard thicknesses - and consequently standard R-values. However, they need to be cut to size and modified according to the pipes that run through the wall, etc.
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The plasterers come after the lock-up is done, and they cover all of the timber frame with the gypsum boards. These boards also come in standard sizes, which is often 10mm thick and 1200mm wide, and that is clearly visible from the photo above where you can see all the joints. They also do some of the mouldings around the house, like the cornices (decorative feature where the wall meets the ceiling). This process can take 3-4 days per house. Below: a photo of what is happening outside at the same stage. The brickwork, the roof, and the upper floor all seem to be finished. The electrical wires are still hanging out from various places.
After the lock-up carpentry, it became difficult to find sites that were accessible for us to walk into. However, the next stage in the sequence is the fixing carpentry (images taken from www.google.com). This involves: - hanging doors and assembling the associated fixings - fitting out architraves and skirting - fitting out the walk-in wardrobes and in-built cupboards - installing the kitchen cupboards, benchtop, etc. There are some companies that specialise in kitchen designs as a package and in that case they might send their own carpenters to install that hardware.
After the plasterer and fixing carpentry - painting, tiling, and plumbing fit-off and electrical fit-off. Out of those four, painting would take the most amount of time, and would be an exclusive trade inside the house while the paint dried. Professional painters generally suit up and cover the floor and other fixings around the house before commencing (top left photo). The others are also fairly straightforward. The tilers usually work in the wet rooms, and can often also work with pavers for the outdoor landscaping. For example, the top right photo shows the front porch, which they planned to tile over in this case. The plumbing fit-off involves bringing in the taps, sinks, toilets, and bathtubs and connecting the pipes under the floor. The electrical fit-off deals with connecting the cables/wires to the designated luminaires/light fittings, as well as covering the light switches, installing kitchen appliances (dishwasher, stove), and laundry appliances (washing machine, dryer).
Manchester Lane in Caroline Springs was the only place where we could find a hint of the “floor finishes� stage. This house was nearing its completion, and we saw the concrete floor of the garage being polished. One thing to note is that when the concrete is being polished, it actually shaves off some of the concrete, hence potentially affecting the FFL if not done correctly. Polished concrete floors can have different degrees of shine, and can also be stained to replicate the look of polished stone, hence becoming an opportunity for design. It is also more durable than most other floor-finishes.
The last stage is landscaping. The photo below shows the concrete driveway already set, and that can often happen at the same time as when the fixing carpenter is working inside the house. Here the deck is being constructed, and that is usually a part of the plan. However, volume builders tend to not do any of the planting and other landscaping features; generally the house is handed over with a barren landscape, and the owner would then find their own subcontractors to do their landscaping (or do it themselves). The photo above shows a similar stage in their development. In this case I just wanted to point out the toppled fence, which can potentially be a tripping hazard and should be removed or fixed.
ADDITIONAL INTERESTING OBSERVATIONS 1. I found that many of the trades had nicknames, for example;
Carpenter = ‘chippy’ Electrician = ‘sparky’ Bricklayer = ‘bricky’ Painter = ‘tosher’ or ‘slosher’
2. There were many trades done by fathers and sons together, which might have some implications on the residential building industry. 3. There were some sites that were not in any hurry to complete their construction. According to the builder there, one particular site have only had one or two tradesmen working there on and off for two weeks.
References Foilboard Insulation Panels http://www.foilboard.com.au/ Roof installation and finish http://www.bristileroofing.com/au/technical-information/roof-installation---finish-off-process/concrete-roof-tile-installation Control joints http://faculty.arch.usyd.edu.au/pcbw/walls/control-joints/index.html Control joints http://www.boral.com.au/Images/common/clay_bricks_pavers/pdfs/1_209.pdf