su it c as e
september ‘18
Fall
issue
Get your dream closet now or someone else will
https://www.superbalist.com
WHATS INSIDE
this issue
THE SPRING ISSUE This issue of Suitcase showcases the up and coming fashion trends and designers of 2018. It aims to provide content dedicated toward fashion, personal style and a look at the who’s who in the industry. This lookbook can be used as a form of inspiration and research for young emerging designers
and trendy setters, as a catalog to document your favourite outfits and stylists or merely for pleasure reading. Each article is carefully selected to provide the best of this seasons up and coming trends and trend-setters. Create your own collection.
CONTRIBUTING TEAM from the editor 3 Sustainability 5 Country Road
EDITOR Jordan Elliott
Brands making headway in the fashion revolution
emerging sa fashion designers
CREATIVE TEAM Jordan Elliott, Brian Garmin
Bad and Boudour: Lady Skollie
all about 15 Thabo Makhetha
tart 21 vintage lover 25 whos new 29 Christopher John Rogers
fashion rules for this fall 33 advice column 37 tips and trends for fall 39
PROJECT COORDINATOR Brian Garmin MANAGING DIRECTOR Brian Garmin ADVERTISING MANAGER Jordan Elliott DESIGNERS Jordan Elliott 28 Somerset street, Grahamstown Eastern Cape, South Africa 6931 Tel +27 73 503 0460 jordan.elliott159@gmail.com
from the editor “Style is a way of explaining who you are without having to speak�. This issue of Suitcase magazine: the fall collective acts as an inspirational lookbook for fashion followers. Each bi-annual edition covers a different season, Spring and Fall and aims to collect all relevant
fashion content relating to the specific period. This issue features sustainable clothing brands, young emerging South African fshion designers, advice from a professional and much more. Get lost in the pages that follow, get inspired, get motivated and get shopping.
Jordan Elliott
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sustainability
COUNTRY ROAD Each year, nearly 10 billion kilos of chemical dye is used worldwide to colour our clothes. If that feels unfathomable, consider this: it takes 2,700 litres of water to make a single cotton T-shirt - enough for one person to drink for 900 days. As fast as we’re buying clothes, we’re chucking them, too. Australians are currently disposing of 6,000 kilograms of fashion and textile waste every 10 minutes. But more of us than ever before want to change our ways; studies show that a third of millennials are more likely to buy from socially-responsible companies. Fortunately, these style-makers are forging new paths to save our plant, inspiring the rest of us to follow.
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sustainability
by MARIE CLAIRE
W
e create beautiful ethically made garments that stand out in a crowd, to employ and train talented people from refugee and new migrant communities,” Ruddick says of her four-year-old Sydney label. Fabric mostly comes from designer donations to reduce waste and promote upcycling, but the team also produces original, limited edition prints in collaboration with local artists and designers, like Romance Was Born. They’ve committed to ensure that all their cotton supports sustainable farming practices by 2020, and plan “to design every product with at least one sustainability attribute” to the same timescale. What does that mean? “Anything from choosing factories that use less water, to switching to more sustainable fibres or creating work opportunities for artisans in impoverished communities.” They’re also encouraging customers to get on board through initiatives like the Country Road Fashion Trade program, a recent partnership with Red Cross that saw the brand become the latest to offer a garment recycling service to divert fashion from landfill. “It’s also about transparency,” she says. “I love Mimco’s ongoing partnership with the Ethical Fashion Initiative, for example, which really comes alive in store and through our online content.”
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sustainability
BRANDS MAKING HEADWAY
IN THE FASHION REVOLUTION
by Gordon Parker The concept of ‘sustainability’ is inherently at odds with the world of fashion. An industry that makes a living by providing its fans with the very newest trends that haven’t been seen or used before is surely one of the most unsustainable imaginable. And that’s exactly what it is. The world’s second most polluting industry after oil, the very nature of fast fashion’s quick trend turnover renders it so damaging that it has become one of the most environmentally crippling industries on the planet. And, according to a recent report, it’s only getting worse, with the textile industry emitting more greenhouse gas emissions than international shipping and aviation combined.
Spiritgirl Spiritgirl is a clothing brand that focuses solely on making beautiful custom-designed yoga pants. This brand was created by two environmentally conscious Cape Town-based women who make these pants from recycled plastic bottles (PET). They are also are comfortable, breathable, and are designed to absorb moisture from the body – keeping you cool and dry
Adidas Original Teaming up with non-profit organisation Parley, Adidas last year sold more than 1 million pairs of shoes from recycled ocean plastic, with each preventing about 11 plastic bottles from the possibility of entering our oceans. Launching last week, they created a material trademarked ‘Ocean Plastic’, which is made entirely from plastic intercepted on beaches and in coastal communities. A sustainable version of the popular Deerupt made from partially upcycled ocean plastic intercepted on Maldivian beaches is a particular highlight.
Zara Zara’s parent company, Inditex, is following suit, and also now encourages shoppers to drop off their used garments in order for the brand to recycle and reuse. In 2016, Zara also launched its answer to H&M’s Conscious Collection via its ‘Join Life‘ initiative – a collection of sustainably created pieces. By 2020, the high street stalwart aims to no longer send anything to landfills from their own headquarters, logistics centres, stores and factories.
emerging SA fashion designers
Bad & boudoir
Lady Skollie is the face of Marianne Fassler’s latest campaign By Nikki Zakkas
F
ashion designer Marianne Fassler has collaborated with artist Lady Skollie for her latest collection, Marianne Fassler Resort 17/18. Together with an incredible team, including photographer Zander Opperman, stylist Lezanne Viviers, assistant stylist Daisie-Jo Grobler and hair and makeup artist Tyron Sweeney, they’ve created something otherworldly. It’s fashion goals if ever we saw them. Artist and activist Laura Windvogel, also known as Lady Skollie, is the face of Marianne Fassler’s FASSLERBOUDOIR 2017/ 2018 Resort collection. Shot in the designer’s Trechikoff-themed bedroom in Joburg, the collection pays homage to boudoir dressing. Marianne’s name is synonymous with whimsy. And with this lineup, there’s no shortage of fanciful designs.
is a beautiful blend of asymme“ The collection try, soft volume and vibrant prints. ”
The richly-hued campaign was lensed by Joburgbased photographer Zander Opperman and styled by the fashion house’s creative director Lezanne Viviers. Laura Windvogel has spent the past three years producing work revolving around the themes of gender roles, sex, greed and lust. With the pseudonym of Lady Skollie, Windvogel explores the complexities of expectations we project onto our romantic and sexual interactions. By highlighting her own, sometimes unrealistic, expectations of these interactions, Windvogel invites the viewer to do the same.
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‘She stands with her feet shoulder width apart back arched, she feels just like her mother taught her, contours rounded and fruitful, glacé black cherry lips she is an unconventional use of colour but beautiful she was holding a bunch of lotus flowers blooming in voluminous silk, pure is every caress, tangible touch, enigmatic gesture and gripping glance her body holds an abundance of secrets subdued by no man, but indeed she loves from her inner chamber there are no forbidden spaces in every curve of her character, her beguiling banter, the lift of her arms, the flaunt of her breasts, she holds the artistry of a woman she is as she stands, she is as she feels she is nobody but herself.’
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p r o f i l e
t u o b a l l A
T H A BO MAK H E TH A “ From authentic Basotho blankets and creating a collection of winter wear
jackets and coats. The Basotho blanket is a symbol of status with deep cultural roots dating over a century in Lesotho, a small landlocked country in Southern Africa ruled by a monarchy.
�
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By Elle Magazine
T
habo Makhetha is an award-winning fashion designer and owner of the leading women’s wear label, which bears her name. The brand was established in South Africa in 2009 and within a few years became one of the handful of African brands considered as being at the forefront of African luxury. The label is globally recognised for using and taking inspiration from authentic Basotho blankets and creating a collection of winter wear jackets and coats. The Basotho blanket is a symbol of status with deep cultural roots dating over a century in Lesotho, a small landlocked country in Southern Africa ruled by a monarchy. Fashion designer Thabo Makhetha- Kwinana was born in Lesotho and raised in South Africa; her collection is an ode to her own Basotho heritage. The 26 year old was born in Lesotho. Tha-
bo and her family moved to South Africa when she was three years old; they have been living here ever since. Thabo is one of the nonconformists featured in 100% Youth on SABC1. From a young age, Thabo noticed she loved the arts; especially painting. She knew she would become a fine artist one day. Although she didn’t quite become a fine artist, she is in the arts field; she is a fashion designer. As a child Thabo would always be knitting and reworking her Barbie dolls’ outfits. Later, she took this seriously by enrolling at The Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University and achieved her National Diploma in Fashion Design.In 2009, after completing her studies, she opened her company ‘Thabo Makhethe’ where she designed traditional African wear for various clients. In the beginning Thabo designed what people wanted;
this meant there wasn’t much creativity from her side. She wanted to please her clients and felt more like a seamstress than a designer. Thabo wasn’t happy with this; sales were not good and she realized that as a traditional African clothing designer, she wasn’t standing out from the rest. She decided to make a bold move by designing with various types of Sotho traditional blankets. Thabo is a proud Sotho woman; she loves her culture and noticed that there weren’t any designers taking traditional Sotho clothing to the next level. Their blankets, often worn over clothing, are a distinctive Sotho cultural clothing look; Thabo wanted to give them a 21st century twist. Thabo decided to start designing with blankets; she worked towards designing a collection, inspired by different Sotho blanket materials.
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p r o f i l e
In 2013 she showcased ‘Kobo EaBohali’, Blankets of Prestige collection at The Design Indaba Expo in Cape Town and was named one of the Top 10 designers. People were excited and enthusiastic about the fresh way she was using material considered ‘just traditional’. She has her own studio in Port Elizabeth; business grows steadily, she has three full time and two part time employees. Thabo supplies her designs to two shops; one in Johannesburg and another in Cape Town.The thick blankets fray easily when cut so they are not practical for dresses or blouses. Design is also limited to the colours and patterns the supplier has; this is difficult when a client requests a specific colour and pattern and the supplier is out of stock. The blankets are produced in cycles; if the colour is finished Thabo must wait until the following year.Besides these challenges, she is creating beautiful Sotho clothing for Sotho women; her main clientele are brides wanting traditional wedding clothes, young girls wanting matric dance dresses and business women who attend functions and want a unique traditional outfit. For her future, Thabo hopes to leave a legacy; she says “a lot of South African designers don’t leave a legacy; they are great designers but what will happen once they are no longer on earth?”
s u i t c a s e
TART
CARI STEPHENSON by Simon Deiner
Black flared long stretch pants
E
stablished in 2001, ‘tart’ is a Cape Town based ladies’ wear brand owned and designed by Cari Stephenson. The heritage of ‘tart’ is the tee shirt, and the brand has evolved to include all aspects of leisurewear. The spirit of the brand is youthful and energetic, with emphasis on effortless style, the ‘tart’ look is vey inclusive, appealing to a wide and varied market. ‘tart’ clothing is made for real women who lead active, enquiring lives and are looking for simple, fuss free pieces to slip on and go. ‘Tart’ aims to be commercially accessible, so quality, style and affordability are key factors when producing garments. Although the brand is always current, it is not trend driven and each piece has the potential to become a wardrobe staple. Simple silhouettes, cleanly cut in soft jersey knits are the cornerstone of each range. Attention is paid to lifestyle and collections include garments for all occasions. Dresses form the basis of the ‘tart’ look, with fit, ease and wear- ability at the heart of each design. To this end, dresses have hidden support and pockets. Our philosophy is - if you feel good, you look good. The ‘tart’ woman is an out-going, confident individual. ‘Tart’ is proudly South African, producing all garments locally, both in-house and through CMT.
Black string detailed top held together with a hidden button with a sheer stripped black t-shirt underneath
Image: Simon Deiner
s u i t c a s e
BE A T R TA
!
Using classic silhouettes and ethnic prints, Tart’s designs are bold and bright. Designed to be wearable, the clothes are eclectic in their colour schemes and playful in the way that Stephenson and her team manipulate cloth–there is always a balance between the simple and the unexpected. With the tagline of the new collection, “ no place like home,” Tart makes reference to South African style and pays homage practically by producing their clothes using local resources
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s u i t c a s e
Vintage Lover
It’s a fashion lover’s delight, where one-of-a-kind, statement garments have been cherry picked. In fact, you’ll find the very thing you wish your mother had kept for you.
By Lisa Nevitt
T
he opening of Long Street’s new vintage offering, Vintage Lover, is a busy one. Champagne corks pop, the well-manicured hands of Cape Town’s fashion fabulous brush retro rails and mouths exclaim, “gosh, darling. That is simply divine”. A ringing till and the swish of long coats, enveloped in paper bags, provide our soundtrack. Far from the dusty racks of clothes and grumpy clerks I’d usually associate with vintage stores, owners, Bianca and Simone Brandi’s shop is girly and romantic. Beautiful clothing stands out against white walls.
“My mum made the paper butterflies hanging in the window and a painting by my friend is on the wall at the back,” enthuses Bianca, “My store is full of little bits of treasure from my family and friends.” The store was named after Bianca and Simone’s love for thrift shopping and previously worn clothes. After an inspirational visit to vintage stores in America, the two sisters decided to follow their passion for fashion and open a vintage store of their own. Vintage Lover was born.
“It hasn’t been easy, but it’s been worth it,” Bianca admits, “I’m passionate about what I do, I’m my own boss, and Simone and I make a great team.” Their Woodstock store opened in February 2010, to rave reviews from Cape Town’s bloggers.
s u i t c a s e
Their dream was always to be on Long Street because of its energy, its accessibility and its reputation as the home of beautiful boutiques. When they saw the ‘to let’ sign they thought, “That’s our shop”. “There’s something romantic about wearing clothes that have lived other lives,” Bianca says. “A dress might have been worn to a prom, or even a wedding, by its previous owner. It’s also conscionable, in our current economy, to buy recycled clothes”. Designer vintage clothing from America and Europe hangs invitingly from the rails. I see Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Salvatorre Ferragamo, Diane von Furstenberg, Oscar de la Renta and Ralph Lauren. There are Mulberry, Nina Ricci and Prada handbags, as well as a stunning Marc Jacobs ‘Stam Bag’. Each statement item has been lovingly handpicked because there is something beautiful about it. Prices are accessible to all, from a R50 scarf to a R2 500 trench coat by Christian Lacroix. Darling! “I jumped for joy when I found this ‘70s Halston dress, made of cashmere,” explains Bianca, as she shows me classic and elegant garments, “I also have these high waisted, tuxedo pants by Chanel. They’re a sample size and only one customer has been small enough to fit into them.” “I find it hard to part with some of the garments because I fall in love with them. When I found a Chanel 2.55 handbag, I had every intention of selling it, but I just couldn’t part with it.” At the opening, we overhear a satisfied customer agree: “I can see how in love you are with all of the garments you have chosen.” Vintage Lover is a fashion lover’s delight, where one-of-a-kind, statement garments have been cherry picked. In fact, you’ll find the very thing you wish your mother had kept for you. hello@vintagelover.co.za
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w h o ’s n e w
WHO’S NEW Christopher John Rogers It’s three weeks before New York Fashion Week and Christopher John Rogers is still working a full-time job at Diane von Furstenberg as an associate designer, in addition to putting the finishing touches on his eponymous ready-to-wear collection. By Lisa Nevitt
D
espite the line not yet grade I started looking up being his main source fashion schools: Parsons, of income, Rogers’ FIT, and Central Saint Marpieces have already been tins,” he says. Rogers endseen on some of the hot- ed up attending The Satest female celebrities, in- vannah College of Art and cluding Cardi B and SZA. Design. “I’ve always been Taking in the interested mix of ‘80s, anything “It ’s always a person, in glam-meetsv i s u a l l y punk street whether they identify as stimulating, c l o t h e s , nything male or female or whatev- aovertly brightly colflaored pant- er, a person that is really vorful or suits fit for really inwork, and attracted to ostentatious t e n s e . ” (my person- expressions of femininity Born and al favorite) a raised in Bajaguar rain- that don’t minimize their ton Rouge, bow printed intellect or their sense of L o u i s i a n a , skirt and top, in a uniquehumor or their assertivethe intention ly diverse seems pretarea of the ness of the world.” ty clear: to South, Rogcreate happiers was ness. Rogers, poised to be lucky enough to have parthis season’s break-out de- ents that celebrated his insigner has worked with the terests. They enrolled him likes of Tanya Taylor, Rosie in arts programs, supported Assoulin, and Chris Benz. him in hosting local fashion But it’s his childhood mem- shows, and encouraged his ories of drawing and sketch- love of drawing. “But my ing clothing for comic book dad was always like, “Do characters that really have you want to draw basketinformed his work. “In fifth ball players or animals?”
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w h o ’s n e w
Worn by male and female models alike with little regard for traditional gender norms, the clothes had color, volume, fantasy and a sense of humor. What’s more, they were almost all made by Rogers himself. The silhouettes were by no means perfectly polished, but he has an eye. Clearly on a budget and more creative for it, Rogers, who works full-time as an associate designer at Diane von Furstenberg, makes his own collection at night with his business partner, who works at Marc Jacobs. “We just come home and say ‘no’ to friends and make clothes,” said Rogers. “Because we just have to do this.” Music to a cynical critic’s ears.
s u i t c a s e
FASH I ON R UL ES
FOR THIS FALL
The temperature is dropping, but the clothes in the shops are more suitable for spring than an icy snap. Here's how to dress for the big freeze with style – and stay warm BY IMOGEN FOX
L
ooking good when it's freezing is a niche wardrobe art. It shouldn't be, because it's very cold very often. But judging by the background chatter this week – on Twitter and on public transport – few of us are sure about what to wear when the temperature drops. And when it drops at this time of year – when the sales are all but over and the shops are stocking up with spring pastels and the like – it's even trickier. We've seen the stars grappling with this problem at the Sundance film festival this year and there have been a few subtle shifts on the wardrobe gauge too. Did you know that wellies are now a bit wincey? Exactly. You're going to need our guide.
Headscarves are the new trilbies Not the most useful directive if you are the sort of woman who always feels like a plum in a hat. But after exhaustive research (looking at lots of pictures of ineffably chic women leaving the couture shows in Paris last week) I've concluded that an impromptu headscarf, fashioned from a large scarf or pashmina, makes for a rather fashion-forward look. Plus it's a bit Queen's jubilee too, which is really rather on-trend this year.
boots have replaced them. They're just lovely with a skinny jeans and a tailored coat. As for Uggs, they're were holding steady as an acceptable basic, but this week they have had a boost. A school in Pennsylvania banned them because school kids were hiding contraband phones inside them, which sort of makes them the new hoodie.
Parkas should be worn with red nails. Henceforth to be known as the Rashida-Jones-atSundance style rule. Jones wore a big parka with a furry collar in the snow, but rather than giving in entirely to the practicality of her look she had painted her nails red. The message was: "I'm relaxed enough about my look to adapt to the weather but I'm still totally fabulous." The take-home lesson – wear last year's padded jacket but pimp it with a spring look you couldn't resist in Zara. Think peplums with parkas.
Wellies are a goner In style terms at least. To recap: the past decade saw the rehabilitation of the wellington boot. The welly went through a fashion narrative that included Kate Moss, Glastonbury, Cath Kidston, Hunter, Jordan and Jimmy Choo. But the story has finally ended with a whimper. No one cares about wellies now. Snow
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s u i t c a s e
Printed trousers are the spring trend to buy now A cursory flick through any glossy trend supplement will tell you that pants are going fancy over the new few months. Stella McCartney showed paisley PJstyle trousers and London hot shot Mary Katrantzou showed brilliantly crazy yet modern floral printed ones. The trend will likely begin as an alpha fashion follower's look but quickly morph into a more democratic style (leather leggings went from off-duty supermodel to tempting surprisingly rapidly). Get there early with printed trousers and wear a plain jumper and a tailored coat to calm them down. Thus you look like you know what's next, yet you're warm now.
Embrace 'the pile-up' Scarf update: if you make a loop with your scarf and pull the ends through you are on a fashion hiding to nothing. "The pile-up" is the way to do scarves in 2018. Trend forensics might wish to know that the trend initially came from menswear where Louis Vuitton designer Kim Jones showed whopping great scarves that had more looped height than length. Stylish women are at it too if the Paris Vogue set at the couture shows is anything to go by. Take a scarf as broad as a blanket and pile it high. Failing that, wear two.
Leather gloves add oomph You may have bought a coat late last year with some sort of contrast leather detailing. Be it on the sleeves or the collar. If you didn't, then don't bother trying to fish one out from the dregs of the sales. They were kind of flash-in-the-pan and Kerry Katona (much as I'm fascinated by her for lots of other non-sartorial reasons) has started wearing one. But leather gloves, on the other hand, make a tailored wool coat look extra sharp. Plus they're warm, which makes them worth choosing over their woolly cousins.
Sunglasses in winter? Do it Wearing sunglasses in winter is the single fastest route to being character-assassinated by just about every person you walk past. "Does she think she's in Courchevel?" "Does she think she's Sarah Jessica Parker on the school run?" "Is she an Italian tourist?" "Tool." I'll leave the rest of the insults to you.
But damn! they looked good on Kate Bosworth at Sundance. And really, there's far more in life to worry about than what people think of a small accessory you've chosen to jazz up your look. Plus, they're no sillier in the snow than earmuffs, when you reason it through.
Going out at night Because sometimes you have to. If you're off out wearing a pencil skirt and a blouse, don't be a hero and try to wear some sort of evening jacket. The modern woman's approach is to go for a giant padded jacket or North Face windproof and wear it with some whopping earrings and a clutch bag. It's called embracing contrast. Remember: there are no style prizes for looking shivery.
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a d v i c e
ASHION ADVICE
FROM THOSE WHO KNOW Coco Chanel’s moreis-more approach still makes a statement today. You can do multiples of the same material, or better yet, go for contrast: Try a femme piece with edgy chains, feathers with beads, or pearls with diamantés.
Looking truly sexy If you’ve got a closet involves knowing full of neutrals-be what to bare-and what to keep under they navy, black, camel, or gray-add wraps. Otherwise, energy with boldly where’s the mystery? “Choose hued shoes and one-only one-body bags. Not only is a ruby red satchel part and show it off,” advises Jen more lively than ho-hum black, but Rade, stylist to it’s also surprisingly Angelina Jolie versatile. -
“Striped pieces are a nice, classic way to pull yourself together for the weekend,” says stylist Tina Chai.
“Outerwear should never be an afterthought,” says Holmes amp Yang co-designer Jeanne Yang. “So many people only see you in your coat—if you’re not wearing something great underneath your trench, they’ll never even know!”
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HERES WHAT’S IN
this fall
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su it c as e
SHOWCASE YOUR STYLE WHEREVER YOU GO