su it cas e
march 2018
Spring
issue
Get your dream outfits now. It’s too easy.
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WHATS INSIDE
this issue
THE SPRING ISSUE This issue of Suitcase showcases the up and coming fashion trends and designers of 2018. It aims to provide content dedicated toward fashion, personal style and a look at the who’s who in the industry. This lookbook can be used as a form of inspiration and research for young emerging designers
and trendy setters, as a catalog to document your favourite outfits and stylists or merely for pleasure reading. Each article is carefully selected to provide the best of this seasons up and coming trends and trend-setters. Create your own collection.
CONTRIBUTING TEAM EDITOR Jordan Elliott from the editor 3
WRITERS Sustainability 5 Young designers pioneering a fashion revolution: Ellis Richard malone: The spring collection
PHOTOGRAPHERS
emerging sa fashion designers 13 Shelley Klopper Ntombegugu Penteni
all about 17 Nadia Turton
beach cult swimwear 21 selfi 23 whos new 29 Hellesy Marchessa
sa female fashion influencers 33 advice column 35 tips and trends for spring 37
CREATIVE TEAM Jordan Elliott, Brian Garmin PROJECT COORDINATOR Brian Garmin MANAGING DIRECTOR Brian Garmin ADVERTISING MANAGER Jordan Elliott DESIGNERS Jordan Elliott 42 Somerset street, Grahamstown Eastern Cape, South Africa 6931 Tel +27 73 503 0460 jordan.elliott159@gmail.com
from the editor “Style is a way of explaining who you are without having to speak�. This issue of Suitcase magazine: the spring collective acts as an inspirational lookbook for fashion followers. Each bi-annual edition covers a different season, Spring and Fall and aims to collect all relevant
fashion content relating to the specific period. This issue features sustainable clothing brands, young emerging South African fshion designers, advice from a professional and much more. Get lost in the pages that follow, get inspired, get motivated and get shopping.
Jordan Elliott
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sustainability
Y
oung designers pioneering a fashion revolution
ELL I S S
by OLIVIA SINGER
While eco-friendly fashion has never had particularly glamorous connotations, the best designers of a new generation are stitching sustainability into everything they do.
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sustainability
W
hile sustainability has long been considered a byword for hemp-heavy bohemia, a new generation of designers is building brands with a more conscious approach to fashion at their core. Whether they are sourcing fabrics through
who launched her namesake brand in 2016 with the missive of creating ethical and necessary clothing for women. Ranging from briefs and swimwear to fleece jumpers and leotards, all of her pieces are designed and manufactured in the same East London building, reduc-
the most sustainable way to shop is to buy vintage – but “ I believe that’s not always possible for underwear and jersey pieces ” “
collectives empowering female workers, or transforming vintage scarves into resolutely contemporary dresses, theirs is an approach to sustainability which eschews all those traditional connotations. This is the new way to make clothing! Elliss Soloman explains,
ing her carbon footprint, and use materials from organic cotton to recycled polyester. One of her particularly good discoveries is a regenerated nylon process – ECONYL – which takes fishnets and nylon waste and reforms it into fabric that she uses to make swimwear.
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Two piece blue and white patterened crop top and skirt
sustainability
RICHARD MALONE 2018 SPRING COLLECTION
by HOLLIS WARREN
B
right and early at London Fashion Week, a surprise from Richard Malone. What is that tip-top traditional haute couture duchesse satin doing on the runway occupied by this working-class firebrand of fashion activism? He luxed it up, he sexed it up, but whoa . . . wait a minute. To recap: Malone, the Irish pro-feminist designer, is also a sustainability spokes-youth, and bringing all that duchesse satin onto the stage immediately opens him up to all kinds of interrogation on sourcing and purpose—subjects that are rarely broached even in whispers in front of the creative directors of mega-brands. But there he was. On point with his reasons. Non-ecologically-damaging material doesn’t have to look like hopsack. The silk, he said, is by the venerable Italian manufacturer Taroni, which he called “the most sustainable company in the world.” It has made fabric for Cristóbal Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, and numberless others in couture, right up to Prada nowadays. “They’ve been weavers for a very, very long time. They use little water, and their colors are acid-free,” Malone explained. Along with his fragmented, athletic-hybrid couture shapes—ballooning shoulders, drawstrings, utility pockets— there were body T-shirts and fabrics that looked suspiciously like synthetics. They’re all “clean,” too, he vouched. The stretch and ripstop materials are in Econyl, the fabric made from recycled nylon, which keeps the nasty stuff on permanent rotation in new garment forms, and thus out of landfills and the oceans. Malone passed that exam, then. As for the style of it all? He talked about being spontaneously influenced by the this and the that he collects in his notebooks—the latticed fringes inspired by fake eyelash boxes, a print of a face lifted from a snap he took in the street. His fit-and-flare midi shapes were sexier, drapier, and slinkier—catnip to the private clients with whom he’s developed relationships. Women in the art world have been calling on him over the past few seasons. This isn’t exactly a couture business as the world used to recognize it. But Malone’s market is another indicator of how much this new generation is (excuse the cliché) changing all the conversations about who buys and why
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sustainability
“ The fabric made from recycled nylon, which
keeps the nasty stuff on permanent rotation in new garment forms, and thus out of landfills
�
and the oceans.
Dark blue coat-inspired jumpsuit with knee-high blue and white stripped boots
floral patterned red, blue and white skirt with a matching colour blocked jacket
12 blue pin stripped tracksuit paired with a blue and white geometric patterned coat
emerging SA fashion designers
Emerging South African
fashion designers
Shelley Klopper
S
helley Klopper is a graduate of the University of Stellenbosch with an academic background in visual communication. Klopper owns a fashion accessory brand called Verse. After spending time in the Karoo, Klopper decided to start a business of creating future heirlooms from leather. She produces a range of accessories, handmade and minimally detailed, that carries the story of its makers. Klopper uses no machinery in her work, thus making it a labour-intensive kind of creativity, but she believes it is the men and women who join in the revival of this leather craft that makes her journey exciting. “My hope is to grow this business, because as it grows so will the employment opportunities it can provide. If I’m to create the proudly South African brand I envision, I need to connect to people in the industry and find ways to showcase my craft.”
If I’m to create the proudly South “African brand I envision, I need to connect to people in the industry and find ways to showcase my craft.
”
14 Image: Sourced
emerging SA fashion designers
NTOMBEGUGU PENTENI “Her
entire collection focused on how black women are degraded in the fashion industry and underrepresented
�
N
tombegugu Penteni is taking a stance in the fashion industry. The 22-year-old who studied at the Nelson Mandela University, doing a Bachelor of Technology in fashion, is coming for the fashion industry and doing it with a message. Ntombegugu released her Golden State of Mind range for 2017/2018 SS. The young designer revealed that the collection has two sides: theoretical and a studio component. Her entire collection focused on how black women are degraded in the fashion industry and underrepresented, but she also showed the representation of womanhood through the designs, which celebrates black woman. Ntombegugu prides herself on her use of traditional fabrics. She wants to use her platform to learn from other creatives and their experiences.
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p r o f i l e
LABEL COLLECTION
t u o b a l l A NADIA T UR T O N “ There was no defining moment, I think creativity has always been in the family and I just naturally channeled it into fashion. ”
by MILDRID FORREST
N
adia Turton is a fashion designer who has her own clothing range and boutique shop under the name of LABEL Collections. Nadia began working in the retail industry where she learned the basics and gained an idea of what she liked before graduating from Cape Tech with a degree in fashion design in 2001. She then spent two years in London and upon returning to Cape Town she gained experience designing for retailers Truworths, Foschini and Edgars before finally launching LABEL Collections. Tell me more about yourself and what you currently do? I am a designer and retailer. I own a boutique in The Point Mall called LABEL Collections. When did you know this is what you wanted to do? There was no defining moment, I think creativity has always been in the family and I just naturally channeled it into fashion. I wanted to become a buyer, but then became a designer and now I have the best of both worlds owning a boutique and sourcing amazing pieces for our customers.
What are the “secrets” to your success? Dedication, passion, appreciation, gratitude, hunger to succeed, and LOVE for what you do! What did you study – was it in this field or something different? I studied Fashion Design but it was not what I always wanted to do. I actually wanted to study advertising but was advised to do fashion. Moms, they always know better! What was your first job in the industry? and what path has your career taken since? My first job was a casual sales assistant at Stuttafords where I worked for a couple of years while studying. I then spent some time travelling abroad and upon my return I designed for big retailers Truworths, Foschini and Edgars. I decided to take the plunge and launch my own womanswear line LABEL FEMME eight years ago. Since then we have added LABEL Lamere (materinity) and accessories which consists of genuine leather belts and bags. What have been the highlights? I can still remember the excitement of receiving my first wholesale orders and then opening my own factory a year later. Opening my boutique would be it!
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profile
What’s the best part of your job? Dealing with clients – I love assisting with styling and wardrobe solutions. I also really enjoy creating ranges for our wholesale clients. All LABEL garments are produced in SA and it’s awesome to see how proud my staff get when they see a LABEL piece inside of a magazine! What is the most challenging part? Switching off – leaving work at work. I enjoy it so much that I am constantly thinking about the business – plans for growth, sourcing new fabrics and creative concepts.
“Dedication,
Passion
Appreciation,
Gratitude,
hunger to succeed ,
&
LOVE WHAT YOU DO” What do you do for fun in your down time? Anything in nature – I love being outside with a view, and a glass of bubbly or wine. At the moment I’m really enjoying trail running. I try to do it as often as possible, regularly switching up my routes. What do you still want to achieve? This is just the beginning, Next step is opening a boutique in Joburg.
s u i t c a s e
unique pieces “ thatI design can be worn every day. My designs are comfortable, practical and flattering, but they have a design edge to them or a one-of-a kind detail that makes the person wearing them feel truly special and unique
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BEACH CU LT Swimwear B
eachcult is a swimwear brand by Joana Hedley, who draws inspiration from her travels around the world and from the beauty of South Africa. Known for signature prints and avant-garde silhouettes, Beachcult, a luxe swim and resort wear label, is designed for the confident women who are comfortable in their own skin, and looking for something striking. The swimwear line was created as a a response to a lack of European-style beach wear. She specialises in locally sourced materials with an emphasis on summery prints and resort-inspired swimwear with a fresh and modern feel. By only hiring locals and supporting the local market, BeachCult is sustainable and innovative. The brand hosts itself on online platforms such as Instagram, Facebook and of course, their online store. Which many
young adultsmake use of, espescially closer toward that summer season. Each item and collection having different inspirations and designs makes for a very versitile brand as it caters to the unique styles of all customers. the most recent collection by Hedley introduces fresh new pieces with prints and elegant wardrobe stample encapsulating the anticipation of summer. This season’s highlights are definately the one pieces in fresh print and this collection breathes a mysterious bohemian luxury with its focus on a unique Karoo desert inspired
print. The new SS19 collection includes flexible ways to wear a swimsuit from the beach straight to evening. The designers collections are inspired by and aimed at young at heart, confident women who are comfortable in their own skin, and looking for something striking - for all the beach queens, nomads, gypsetters and women who carry the ocean continuously in their heart. Currently available at Mememe, OnTrend online and Periquita or head to the online store.
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s u i t c a s e
Selfi
F
by ALISSA ROGERS
ashion designer Celeste Arendse created her own brand, Selfi, in 2009, focusing on “thought-provoking attire that has dreamlike qualities, yet is classic and easily wearable”. The brand’s seasonal shows have become highly anticipated local fashion week events, and Celeste showcased her Autumn/Winter 2015 collection at the major fashion trade show Pure London. Having found buyers as far afield as Italy and Japan, this 31-year-old fashion designer is certainly going places. What would you identify as the key elements of the SELFI brand. I’ve always loved illustrating, and began incorporating illustrations into the brand in 2013. I started with screen-printing, but now I only do digital printing, as you can create so much more with the image and the turnaround is quicker.
“
SELFI is about exploring one’s authentic self, self-belief, being true to oneself, and living by one’s own compass.
”
Designing the fabric prints myself makes the process of designing a collection simpler. I now have cleaner silhouettes, as the focus is on the prints. What are some of the challenges of building a fashion brand? The local market is small and can be conservative, which limits you as a designer. You have to find a balance and create something that is different yet sellable. I’ve always loved that challenge. I believe that the creator has to educate the consumer. You build trust as the consumer gets to know and like your product, and that trust makes it easier to push the boundaries with each collection. Any advice for aspiring young fashion designers? Know your market. Look around you to see what you can offer that no one else is offering. Ask how you can add value to your industry and your country. Explore what’s happening in your own back yard. You have to carve out your own world in your industry, a world that will intrigue people, a world they’ll want to be a part of.
24 Full length Beige jumpsuit with adjustable straps R550
s u i t c a s e
Full length Beige romper with white buttoned straps R500
taken form the word “selfSELFIandwasis meant to stand for self
empowerment and self betterment
Full length black romper with a button up front R500
�
s u i t c a s e
Full length Beige jumpsuit with a button up front R500
I
nspired by architecture, forms and patterns in nature, each Selfi garment is designed to represent an innovative twist on existing women’s apparel. Products are manufactured in Cape Town, and designer Celeste Lee Arendse aims to design women's wear with an international feel. SELFI is a Cape Town based ready to wear clothing brand specialising in creating sustainable, bespoke ethical fashion and accessories. The name SELFI was taken form the word self and is meant to stand for self empowerment and self betterment. Each collection is meant to tap into a essence of the self and interpret a narrative of the state of mind of of the collective or the individual “self”. SELFI is housed in its lifestyle concept store in the heart of Cape Town , South Africa, selling annual collaborations with thought leaders in the South African creative sphere. The brand is also a home to a host of carefully selected South African designers such as Lorne, Day Feels, Dyad, Deity Skin and WASS Skin Care, ranging from jewellery, essential skin care, as well as accessories which fill the space
28 3/4 V-neck black romper with a waist tie R500
w h o ’s n e w
WHO’S NEW
Hellesy NEW YORK,SEPTEMBER 8, 2018 by BROOKE BOBB
A
few seasons ago, Sylvie Millstein told a Vogue reviewer this: “We’re always about statement pieces.” Indeed, Hellessy is a brand that strives to offer its clientele clothes that have intentional oomph—trousers with trains and bulbous balloon-sleeve tops with asymmetrical necklines, to name just two of her best sellers. For spring, Millstein chilled out on the drama a little bit and it was exciting to see her do so. Instead of edgy and architectural, there were free-spirited silhouettes and color palettes borrowed from Lauren Hutton and the deserts of Utah. Millstein imagined the film icon on a road trip through the American southwest, wearing pantsuits, vintage tees, and maxi dresses. For a designer who has referenced Robert Mapplethorpe and Johannes Vermeer in her last
two collections, a drive through the Mojave was a welcome departure. That being said, Millstein did incorporate some of her signature flounce here and there. Beautiful off-theshoulder, mutton-sleeve dresses and shirting that came knotted at the bodice were the highlights, while the use of prints with celestial and Southwestern motifs was a bit off base. Again, the simpler looks tended to be Millstein’s most successful: The Japanese denim skirt and ivory belted jacket combination looked like something a more upscale Georgia O’Keeffe might wear, and the sand stretch linen and cotton dress would do well in Ms. Hutton’s wardrobe. The Hellessy-favorite embellishments—prints, ruffles, and draping—were all still there, but in quieter iterations. They managed to stand out a touch more this time around.
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w h o ’s n e w
Marchesa T
by ALESSANDRA CODINHA
hey don’t refer to fashion’s “flock” for nothing: Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman looked to the skies for inspiration for their Spring collection and found it slightly closer to earth in “a botanical menagerie of caged birds.” These were represented by fluffy feathered skirts, 3-D embroideries of flora and fauna, arched modesty-preserving wings, and colorful décolleté accents poking out of sleek corsets on carpet–ready gowns. Sheer boudoir-inspired evening looks in black and nude Chantilly lace provoked further rumination on the “caged bird” concept. The sweeping, ombré-dyed tiered tulle trains in shades of sorbet caused a riot of Instagram snaps among a front row section occupied by a gaggle of Disney Channel
starlets, eager to scrum for their debut in the larger celebrity ecosystem. (On the other end of the spectrum and the runway was Bette Midler, to whom a thickly jeweled, sheer-shouldered gown in deep navy was of significantly more interest.) And what else is Marchesa for, if not exquisitely rendered red carpet moments for one’s own inner Disney princess? That a few of the dresses left some runway detritus (a fistful of feathers here, petals of tulle there)—turning a devoted Harvey Weinstein into a quick one-man clean-up crew—only proved that even the brightest peacocks among us have to return to reality now and again. And you know what they say about birds of a feather.
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s u i t c a s e
I N FLUENCERS by JAMES DE VILLIERS
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Palesa Mahlaba Even though her blog might be called Simply Palesa, simple is not what comes to mind when we think about Palesa. She is anything but. She is a former fashion editor and currently a fashion stylist and businesswoman. For as long as she can remember, she has always had a passion for fashion and the fashion industry. We love her ever changing style and desire to be different. Follow Palesa on her style journey by having a look at her blog
Lulaman Mlambo
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www.black-base.com/lulamawolf.
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www.simplypalesasedit.co.za
Nadia Jaftha
Sarah Langa There is always more than meets the eye. Up to this point, you may know the side of Sarah Langa that has been portrayed by the media and her ambassador roles for Picot & Moss, Woolworths A/W 2015, Witchery S/S 2016, Vince Camuto, Brutal Fruit and Stylista. However, her fashion and style blog speak to the young generation of fashionistas. Her work encapsulates fine details of modern design with more traditional styles of garmets, Know more about this young woman check out www.sarahlanga.com
Lulaman “Wolf” Mlambo is a creative with a hunger for fashion, art and food. She uses her blog and social media accounts as a platform to express herself as both a stylist and artist. She says that the meaning of ‘Wolf’ is to aspire to be at the forefront of what she does and in doing so, hopes to inspire her readers. Her clean minimalist style both inspires and excites us; we encourage you to follow the Wolf at
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Ever since her first prank on her mom involving a cigarette, the two have fast become a relatable duo sharing personal moments with fans. Nadia started blogging about 4 years ago and since then has had an explosion of interest from fans eager to witness her antics and sense of style. We love what she does because it’s fresh and funny, and fashionable to boot. She previously dabbled in clothing design but has now set all her focus on her blog and social following. We look forward to seeing what this funny fashionista comes up with next and if you’d like to keep up with her you can check out her blog at www.birdlineblog.com
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advice
ASHION ADVICE
FROM THOSE WHO KNOW
“Know who you are. Know your age, know what looks good on you. It’s not necessarily what’s on the runway.” - Tony Burch
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“If you try something on and you don’t feel it, it’s not for you. If you don’t look good in a bright color, don’t go there. If you don’t look good in a low-cut dress, don’t do it. No matter what designer or trend, if you understand what your body shape is, that’s what you should wear. Create your own wardrobe that really suits you as an individual.” - Temperley London’s Alice Temperley
"Dress for yourself. Don't follow the trends. Observe the trends, read about the trends, and apply them to yourself in a way that feels unique. Not all trends work. That said, try your best to be an individual, because the most attractive people in the world are the ones that are unique and have something different to say." -Rachel Roy
"Wear clothes that fit your personal style, not what fits what's going on right now." - Jason Wu
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h e r e ’s w h a t ’s i n
HERES WHAT’S IN this spring
FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASH- 38 ION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION spring FASHION
Create your own spring collection now
su it c as e
SHOWCASE YOUR STYLE WHEREVER YOU GO