JOYS FASHION BOOK vol.two | selected pages only by JOYS

In this issue: Gucci, Max & Co, Prada, Escada, Marshall Field & Company, NaraCamicie, Beltrami, M.A.C Cosmetics, Estee Lauder, Smashbox, Perris Monte Carlo, Celeste Vintage, Aveda. Pitti Uomo: Undercover, Taka Hiromiyashita, Bmuet(te), Beyond Closet. Paris Haute Couture: A F Vandevors, Christophe Josse, Galia Lahav, Georges Hobeika, Georges Chakra, Guo Pei, Hyun Mi Nielsen, Julien FourniĂŠ, Ralph and Russo, Xuan, Ziad Nakad. London RTW: Malan Breton, Margaret Howell, Pam Hogg, Rocky Star, Jiri Kaflar, Ryan Lo, Milan RTW: Alberto Zambelli, Anteprima, Antonio Marras, Atsushi Nakashima, Brognano, Calcaterra, Christian Pellizzari, Cristiano Burani, Daizy Shely, Francesca Liberatore, HUI, John Richmond, Les Copains, Maryling, MSGM, Ujoh, Arthur Arbesser. Paris RTW: Dawei, DROMe, Guy Laroche, Hallie Sara, Issey Miyake, Jourden, Junko Shimada, Leonard Paris, Masha Ma, Rahul Mishra, Redemption, Shiatzy CHen, Valentine Yudashkin.

JOYS FASHION BOOK VOL. TWO

Florence Focus

Pitti Uomo 93

Paris Haute Couture ss18

London, Milan and Paris ready-to-wear fashion weeks aw1819

V O L . TWO

JOYS Fashion Book www.joysmagazine.com a unique point of view and first-hand coverage

This is the story of the dreamers and the process of manifesting their fantasies. The story of students becoming masters and masters creating their masterpieces. This is the back and front stage of fashion.

HOW TO WEAR IT TREND REPORT by Gili Biegun

MILAN FASHION WEEK AW18’19’ COLLECTIONS by Chantelle Thach and Gili Biegun

179

PARIS FASHION WEEK AW18’19’ COLLECTIONS by Chantelle Thach and Gili Biegun

PITTI UOMO AW18’19’ COLLECTIONS by Gili Biegun

193

BEHIND THE SCENES LONDON MILAN AND PARIS by Gili Biegun

LONDON FASHION WEEK AW18’19’ COLLECTIONS by Chantelle Thach and Gili Biegun

135

PARIS HAUTE COUTURE SS18’ COLLECTIONS by Gili Biegun

253

193

MY BEAUTY PRODUCTS WE LOVE by Olga Makarova and Gili Biegun

THE PEOPLE OF FLORENCE FLORENCE FOCUS by Michelle Anne Lipper and Gili Biegun

Editor-in-chief Gili Biegun

267

EDITOR’S NOTES AW18’19’ COLLECTIONS by Chantelle Thach and Gili Biegun

Fashion Editor Chantelle Thach Photographer Olga Makarova Writer Michelle Anne Lipper Photographer Ioana Cmeciu Marketing Daniel Mizrahi Photographer/Model Ellen Boucke Original graphic design by Daria Po. Designers, brands, labels in this issue: Gucci, Max & Co, Prada, Escada, Marshall Field & Company, NaraCamicie, Beltrami, M.A.C Cosmetics, Estee Lauder, Smashbox, Perris Monte Carlo, Celeste Vintage, Aveda. Pitti Uomo: Undercover, Taka Hiromiyashita, Bmuet(te), Beyond Closet. Paris Haute Couture: A F Andevorst, Christophe Josse, Galia Lahav, Georges Hobeika, Georges Chakra, Guo Pei, Hyun Mi Nielsen, Julien Fournié, Ralph and Russo, Xuan, Ziad Nakad. London RTW: Malan Breton, Margaret Howell, Pam Hogg, Rocky Star, Jiri Kaflar, Ryan Lo, Milan RTW: Alberto Zambelli, Anteprima, Antonio Marras, Atsushi Nakashima, Brognano, Calcaterra, Christian Pellizzari, Cristiano Burani, Daizy Shely, Francesca Liberatore, HUI, John Richmond, Les Copains, Maryling, MSGM, Ujoh, Arthur Arbesser. Paris RTW: Dawei, DROMe, Guy Laroche, Hallie Sara, Issey Miyake, Jourden, Junko Shimada, Leonard Paris, Masha Ma, Rahul Mishra, Redemption, Shiatzy CHen, Valentine Yudashkin.

261

AQUAFLORENCE FLORENCE FOCUS by Gili Biegun

236

RGB MODERN VINTAGE by Gili Biegun and Chantelle Thach

Special thanks: Octoly, M.A.C Cosmetics Italia, Maximilian Linz, The Clck, Pop PR, Next Agency Milano, Totem PR, Guitar PR, The people of Florence and Justin Young.

PAGE 193 BACKSTAGE WITH

M . A. C C O SM E TI C S LONDON MILAN PARIS FASHION WEEKS

Photo by Ellen Boucke during Paris Fashion Week

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

THE GIRL ON THE COVER

In the days of #metoo, the

story took a natural course;

Model/Photographer Ellen

one year ago I still can re-

fashion industry has a big

Michelle Lippers artical fea-

Boucke, 18 years old, based

member the feeling I had

responsibility on the mes-

tured an equal number of

in Antwerp and is passion-

when I took the photo.

sage it sends out to the

men and women, the best in

ated with analogue cameras

world. The Press will leave a

their fields.

and film. I met her in the

Gili: Why it is so important

big foot print, preserving an

backstage of Guy Laroche

to you to know the name of

important time in feminism

In January 2018 we started

during Paris fashion week

the model you photograph?

history.

our runway coverage on the

(Feb 2018) and was fasci-

Ellen: Because otherwise

My goal was to curate the

93rd edition of Pitti Uomo

nated by the courage of a

for me the photo don’t feel

best reflection of the mod-

Firenze. Even though de-

young woman to capture

complete. A name tells a

ern women, from my unique

fined as men’s wear plat-

the moment on camera and

story about a person. And so

point of view.

form, the unisex direction of

not knowing the result right

when I post a portrait from

Winter

the industry can not go un-

a way.

someone I need to write

2018/2019 collections made

noticed. For their 200 years

Photography backstage of a

the name because it’s a part

the job easy. The extra lay-

celebration, Brooks Broth-

fashion show can be chal-

from the person.

ered, head-to-tow covered

ers dressed female models

lenging to any photographer.

models walked the runways

in men’s suits while keeping

With low, badly placed, tint-

Gili: What its like to be a fe-

of London, Milan and Paris;

their femininity. Later that

ed light, stressed backstage

male young photographer in

Comfortable and empow-

month we saw men suit-

staff and small-unorganized

Paris fashion week?

ered.

ed with fantastic dresses

space. I personally find it

Ellen: First it was really

The anti-sexual harassment

by Hyun Mi Nielsen during

challenging and continu-

scary, (it still is) but now I

campaign changed the way

Paris SS18 Haute Couture.

ously changing the setting

know what its like. I have

fashion

think

The ready-to-wear collec-

of my digital camera, taking

already more trust in every-

about women’s wear, the re-

tions didn’t disappoint and

about 100-200 photos each

thing. In the beginning I was

sult is a celebration of a new

our 288 page issue com-

time I shoot behind the

thinking a lot ‘oh no what

feminine revolution.

pleted its mission.

scene. Ellen has a different

will they think about me?

point of view.

Young girl with her small

The

Autumn

designers

Florence Focus: This issue

JOYS Fashion Book Vol.2

features 4 articles about

has an international, inter-

Gili: Why do you prefer

she know about all of this’.

fashion, beauty and Floren-

racial, all age, female only

to shoot with an analogue

Now I don’t care anymore.

tine lifestyle, the current

team of creators. I never

camera?

It’s not the camera that do

home for JOYS Magazine.

planned it to be an only

Ellen: On one film roll there

the work but you. It doesn’t

The People Of Florence

women edition. It turned

are 36 photos and because

matter how big your camera

(p251) tells the story of in-

out this way because these

I can’t take a lot of photos

is, what matter is the eyes of

ternational and local, men

individuals were the best

I will remember every click

the photographer.

and women business own-

for the job.

I did on the camera after I

analogue camera, what does

ers in the old city Centre.

see the photos. Even when

Without foreplanning, the

I look back at photos from

HOW TO WEAR

IN AUTUMN WINTER 18’19’ Trend report from London Milan and Paris runways by Gili Biegun

TRANSPERENT. SHIATZY CHEN

MINIMAL BLACK AND WHITE. GUY LAROCHE

DETAILS. ARTHUR ARBESSER

SUPERSIZE IT

ISSEY MIYAKE

ANAÏS JOURDEN

JOHN RICHMOND

ANTEPRIMA

â&#x20AC;&#x2039;ARTHUR ARBESSER

MASHA MA

SPELL IT OUT

ANTONIO MARRAS

ATSUSHI NAKASHIMA

JOHN RICHMOND

HOUSE OF HOLLAND

ALBERTO ZAMBELLI

MSGM

GET IT RED HOT

BROGNANO

DAIZY SHELY

MSGM

CRISTIANO BURANI

ANTONIO MARRAS

MALAN BRETON

UNISEX IT

MARGARET HOWELL

MALAN BRATON

ATSUSHI NAKASHIMA

BROGNANO

UJOH

HOUSE OF HOLLAND

LET IT SHINE

VALENTINE YUDASHKIN

CHRISTIAN PELLIZZARI

MIMI TRAN

DEE BY DALIA

ANTONIO MARRAS

MALAN BRETON

LF W by Chantelle Thach

for this upcoming Fall/Winter

London Fashion Week; The

season. Alike from what was

land of opportunity for inter-

shown on the runway, Lon-

national and young design-

don Fashion Week attendees

ers. The catwalk for this Fall/

always came best dressed in

Winter 2018 season in Lon-

exaggerated furs, bold suits,

don glistened with sequins,

sequins on sequins, and in all

embellishment, bold colors,

colors of the rainbow. Wom-

and even all black from head-

enâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s suits and unisex inspired

to-toe. It was eye-opening to

collections

witness many International

comfort and practicality were

designersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; new collections

a huge influence this season

come to life on the runway

in support of feminism and

and to see that the majority

women empowerment.

had similar signature trends

that

favored

Various of designers from London Fash-

by creating stronger silhouettes and mas-

he paired every single one of his looks

ion Week this season celebrated their

culine-like structures while keeping it

this collection with flat shoes. It was a

success by bringing on all their glitz and

glamorous with the use of sequins and

beautiful collection that Rocky Star cre-

glam onto the runway. The venues were lit

embellishments. A designer that does a

ated for this season and it was refreshing

up with collections that included metal-

magnificent job creating statement wom-

to see a luxury designer pair dresses and

lic fabrics, sequins, sparkles, and tons of

en’s suits is, Malan Breton, who is origi-

gowns with flat shoes and tights. Anoth-

embellishment embroideries. A designer

nated from Taipei, Taiwan and now based

er designer that values creating clothes

that did an outstanding job with sequins

in New York City. Malan Breton is known

that are comfortable and practical while

and heavy embellishment in his collec-

for creating unique versions of the clas-

looking stylish and business-appropriate

tion was Jiri Kalfar; an animal rights activ-

sic made to measure suits that appeal to

is a minimalistic designer from the U.K. ,

ist and sustainable designer from Czech

businessmen, career women, celebrities,

Margaret Howell. This season, Margaret

Republic. I had the opportunity to inter-

politicians, and royals globally. His Fall/

Howell created a practical yet business

view Jiri Kalfar after his show and he told

Winter 2018 collection consisted of dark

appropriate unisex collection with mas-

me that this Fall/Winter 2018 collection

reds, blues, metallic, and black leath-

culine-like structures so that women can

was made to be Victorian themed. How-

ers. However, what made this collection

get away with wearing menswear pieces

ever, he also said, “I never just have one

so memorable was how Malan Breton

without looking overly masculine as well

inspiration, I usually start somewhere and

uniquely designed each garment with

as men being able to wear her womens-

see how it evolves like with this collection

sharp features and bold silhouettes that

wear garments without looking overly

it started off with a Victorian theme and

were made with patent leathers, jacquard

feminine. This season she stuck to her

then I decided to add some Rock n’ Roll

fabrics, metallic fabrics, embellishments,

style of keeping the collection in neutral

into it, I even decided to add a little bit

and silver rock stud hardware. Gili Biegun,

tones with surprise hints of green hues.

of glitter and sequences in my garments

Editor-in-Chief of Joys Magazine, asked

to bring the collection all together.” As a

Malan Breton, “if you had to describe this

As you can tell, London Fashion Week

sustainable designer, Jiri Kalfar manufac-

collection in one word, what would it be?”

did a great job with bringing in Interna-

tures all his fabrics from Czech Republic’s

Malan Breton took a pause and answered,

tional designers from all over the world.

local stores and productions so he knows

“the Collection of Hope.”

I enjoyed watching all the designers’

exactly where his fabrics are coming from,

collections from the U.K. as well as de-

and has everything made locally in his

Rocky Star, a luxury designer from India,

signers who came all the way from India,

studio in Prague. This Fall/Winter 2018

was a huge advocate for creating com-

the United States, Turkey, Czech Republic,

collection consisted of royalty shades of

fortable and practical pieces in support

Germany, Morocco, etc. It was an amazing

reds, blues, and golds with corsets, Victo-

of hard working women. As a luxury de-

experience to get to know some of the

rian inspired ruffs, heavy gold hardware,

signer, Rocky Star’s Fall/Winter 2018 col-

designers from the backstage that have

and exotic faux furs which made this the

lection consisted of dresses and evening

come to London from all different parts

perfect Victorian inspired collection with

wear made gold jacquard fabrics and em-

of the world to showcase their work and

Kalfar’s modern day edgy yet glamorous

bellishment. Typically, a luxury designer

witness hearing their inspirations to why

twist. His uplifting spirit shows through

that creates an evening wear collection

they love to create.

every one of his garments; it was an hon-

would pair the looks with extravagant

or to have interviewed such an admirable

heels. However, after his show, Rocky Star

and driven designer as Jiri Kalfar.

spoke with our Editor-in-Chief, Gili Biegun, and told her that it was extremely

This season was about reinventing the

important for him to focus on comfort

idea of a classic business women’s suit

and practicality this season which is why

MA RGA R E T H OWE L L

RUNWAY Autumn Winter 18’19’ London Fashion Week

PA M HOGG

From The Front Row Autumn Winter 18’19’ London Fashion Week

PAM HOGG

From The Front Row Autumn Winter 18’19’ London Fashion Week

MALA N B RETO N From The Front Row Autumn Winter 18’19’ London Fashion Week

LONDON Malan Breton Autumn Winter 18’19’ From The Front Row

MFW

by Chantelle Thach Milan Fashion Week; a refreshing and authentic representation of individualistic Italian style. Even just being in the city of Milan during fashion week meant being exposed to all the upcoming trends for Fall/Winter of 2018. There were hues of the rainbow all throughout the city whether it was being shown on the runway, on the streets between shows and presentations, or in the audience of shows. Color was shown through every way possible this fashion week whether it being monochromatically, color blocking, pastel blending, or a mixture of it all. Most of the designers at Milan Fashion Week were also a huge advocate for Women Empowerment this season when creating their Fall/Winter 2018 collections. I spoke to designers that told me about how their collections were made to focus on business women and to empower all those who are in the workforce. This season, you will be seeing a lot of unisex collections as well as exaggerated shoulders and silhouettes on the catwalk. All the fashion power houses in Milan did an outstanding job with lighting up the runway with their use of color this season. However, some emerging designers that we want to bring to your attention that did a magnificent job with the use of color for this season include Christian Pellizarri, MSGM, Daizy Shely, Lucio Vanotti, Albino Teodoro, and Carlos Gil. I had the honor to interview Lucio Vanotti, an Italian designer based in Milan, after his Fall/Winter 2018 show to discuss his new groundbreaking collection. Lucio’s unisex collection consisted of a mixture of the classic and sporty look. With the sporty concept, he took the colorways and comfort and for the classic concept, he took the elegance and the use of nicer fabrics. He combined these two concepts to create his Fall/Winter 2018 collection which has been the most extraordinary collection out of all of Lucio Vanotti’s past collections. Lucio mentioned how it is not typical for him to come out with a collection with the use of many colors since he has

stuck to darker and neutral tones in the past. Although in our interview, he said “for some reason this season I want to feel and be surrounded by colors. I loved pairing the orange and yellow, red and pink, and orange and red colors together.”

Throughout other designers’ collections such as Christian Pellizarri, MSGM, and Daizy Shely, there was a lot of color blocking on the runway with hues of reds, violets, and greens. The head-to-toe red look is still a popular trend this season except with a new twist of mixing hues such as burgundy, ruby red, fuchsia, blush, and pale pink. The color of the year, ultra-violet, was also a very popular color to be worn this fashion week along with deep purple, lavender, and lilac. And for looks that incorporated greens, the most worn hues were dark green, emerald green, lime, mint, and chartreuse. During the Daizy Shely show, the looks that caught my eye the most consisted of color blocking with bold colors, pastels, and monochrome all in one look. For example, there was a look that was styled with a bold red baker boy hat, bold red puffer jacket with pink panels, royal blue silk pleated ruffled culottes, and classic pastel lavender ankle strap heels which seemed to have tied the whole look together. The next big trend for this upcoming Fall/Winter 2018 was influenced by women empowerment in ways to make women look sophisticated and powerful with masculine silhouettes yet keeping it elegant and feminine with the selection of fabrics. This season, the return of the 80’s are back again with even more exaggerated shoulders and statement blazers. Some designers that contributed to this trend were Maryling, Cristiano Burani, John Richmond, and Pedro Pedro. Before Maryling’s Fall/Winter 2018 fashion show, I had the opportunity to go backstage and interview him about his new collection. Maryling said, “my inspiration always comes from several layers. I’ve seen the exhibition by Alexander Calder from New York and that was where I

got my styling inspiration. But then I was also very inspired by the ceramic piece from the 70’s, especially the one inspired by lava. So, when you put those two together and take an amazing picture of Paloma Picasso from when she was 18 you get something very exciting which you will see in my collection.” Maryling told me that his signature piece from this collection is the one shoulder dress with the printed silk and lava explosion. He enjoys this piece because of the masculine tailoring and the feminine silk fabric. Another admirable designer that decided to go for the working business women collection was Pedro Pedro, a Portuguese designer that always leaned towards street wear until this Fall/Winter 2018 collection. “This collection is more formal than what I am used to. I usually stick to sport and street wear but this season I wanted to make a work wear collection. Women are now CEO’s and continue to empower themselves through their work so that is why I wanted to create a collection for women that can wear my collection to the office. I wanted to try to create something more individualistic, for the women who don’t always want to wear a suit to work but maybe prefer a nice shirt and other work wear appropriate clothes.” Anna Wintour said in an interview about this past Milan Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2018, “like the whole mood of Milan, Dolce & Gabbana’s collection was very positive, upbeat, and a celebration of life. I think this can apply to the entire week of Milan Fashion Week. The Italians really welcomed everyone with open arms and showcased an amazing week of color and life.” This quote is something I believe anyone that witnessed this Milan Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2018 can attest to. Even though it may have been one of coldest fashion weeks in years, the city of Milan was as bright as ever with the huge influence of bold colors, exaggerated silhouettes, and individualistic Italian style.

M S GM From The Front Row Autumn Winter 18’19’ Milan Fashion Week

Christian Pellizzari AW18’19’ collection | From The Front Row | Milan Fashion Week

CH RIST IA N P EL L I ZZA RI

From The Front Row Autumn Winter 18’19’ Milan Fashion Week

DA IZY SHELY

From The Front Row Autumn Winter 18’19’ Milan Fashion Week

DAIZY SHELY

From The Front Row Autumn Winter 18’19’ Milan Fashion Week

PFW by Chantelle Thach Paris Fashion Week; Where the legacy of being fashion capital of the world lives on. Although, you can travel to Paris anytime of the year to discover new fashion trends, as dressing best is the everyday norm for Parisians. With Paris being home of the oldest power fashion houses, Paris Fashion Week hosts the most attendees of celebrities and a variety of professionals in the fashion industry from all over the world. There is also a huge influence from Asia during Paris Fashion Week with designers from Japan, China and India. With that being said, the streets of Paris are decked with the most uniquely dressed individuals in the world during the fashion week season. This Paris Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2018 was a mixture of color blocking, monochrome, mixmatched patterns, 80’s inspired womenswear, and the classic Parisian style. Along with all the previous fashion weeks for this fashion season, there was a huge movement in Paris in support of women empowerment, sustainable fashion, and for designers to speak up about what they believe is most important. The first admirable designer that I would like to bring to your attention is a 76-year Paris Fashion Week veteran that’s originated from Japan,

Junko Shimada. She is the queen of color blocking, monochrome, and mix-matched patterns for her Fall/Winter 2018 collection. Junko Shimada is an individual that inspires other with her own inspirations. Shimada’s designs animated the runway with her use of bright and monochrome colors, mixed flannel patterns, bold stripes, and uniquely designed hair accessories/headwear. Another renown Japanese designer that took a different spin on this season’s collection is, Issey Miyake. Miyake’s Fall/Winter 2018 collection focused on textures and heavy knitwear with oversized silhouettes. Although he did not focus on trends this season, he still incorporated the use of colors with hues of bold pinks, oranges, blues, and yellows woven into his black and white knitwear. Throughout the collection, Issey Miyake kept a high neckline throughout all his looks and added in textured shaggy collars, sweaters, jackets, and hair accessories. The Italian fashion label, DROMe is another designer brand that caught everyone’s eye this season. Every look in this collection was so pleasing to the eye with the cohesive mix of monochrome and neutral colors and hints of patent leather throughout each look. Patent leathers, fur shearlings, neutrals, and long trench coats will always be key staples for

the Fall/Winter seasons. Patent leather has been a huge trend for the past few seasons both on the runway and in street style fashion and I am ecstatic to say this statement leather will be a continuing trend for this upcoming Fall/Winter season. DROMe created amazing patent leather matching sets, shearling jackets, as well as everyone’s new trendy and practical accessory, the belt bag. I can honestly say that I loved every single look from this collection. However, if I were to choose my favorite it would have to be the patent leather blush pink bustier and matching pant set that was paired with the blush pink trench coat, red patent leather belt bag, red patent leather gloves, and red knit arm warmers. DROMe’s collection this season is every girl’s dream Fall/Winter wardrobe. Not only does Paris Fashion Week host the biggest power house fashion shows, but it also has the largest variety of designers from all over the world. Although Paris being the coldest fashion week of the fashion month may have been an unexpected burden, Paris Fashion Week still found a way to exceed our expectations with the execution of shows and amazing street styles from all attendees. The city of fashion never disappoints.

LEONA R D PA RI S From The Front Row AW18’19’ collections Paris Fashion Week