stylefile
All Creatures Great & Small
W
hile some men view shopping as retail therapy, there are others who feel like they require therapy after shopping. Many designers conveniently overlook the fact that few of us have the elusive ‘perfect’ body, while even fewer still can squeeze into the slim fit clothes that proliferate the high street and appear to be designed for skinny teenagers, rather than for real men. As a result, many of us view the shopping experience as a tiresome and expensive chore, rather than the pleasure that it should be. But looking – and feeling good – need not entail a body overhaul or a complete re-working of your existing wardrobe. The key is to learn what to avoid, what to embrace and how best to wear particular items to complement your frame. With this in mind, we’ve compiled a crack team of five leading stylists, each of whom share their top tips on how to work a smart, fashionable look, whatever your shape or size.
Thin End A whippet thin frame need not mean a compromise on style, says stylist Mark Andrew Kelly. “Sometimes people don’t actually understand how hard it can be to find the right fit if you are of a slim build. I have been thin all my life and have learnt to embrace it. The trick for us ‘skinnies’ is to know how to use our slighter frames to our advantage, rather than our detriment. And here’s how.”
When shopping for a suit, seek advice from a trained professional and ask staff about slimmer cuts. Stores such as House of Fraser stock a wide range of brands, including Peter Werth, Kenneth Cole and Ben Sherman, which are all aimed at the slimmer customer and offer a tailoring service to adjust your new suit appropriately.
Style Mistakes To Avoid Contrary to what you might think, baggy, bulky or ill-fitting clothes will not make you look any bigger. Loose-fitting garment will only accentuate your build and make you look even thinner. Avoiding skinny shirtS and T-shirts is just as important. Look instead to tops that are fitted and allow some movement from your mid-section, as these will hide a small ribcage. Steer clear of clingy fabrics which will only emphasis your slim build. DECONSTRUCTED JACKETS WITH NO SHOULDER PADS ARE A NO-GO. They seldom work for thin frames. Take care, too, to ensure your jacket falls right under your buttocks. Shorter styles will only emphasise your slight frame whereas longer jackets can make you look like a cotton bud in a sleeping bag. BOot cut or flared ROUSERSs are to be avoided at all costs.
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Remember that almost anything can be altered to fit you properly and any good tailor will advise on what adjustments can be made to garments to complement your shape and size. Trousers should curve around the bottom, rather than hang over it. Trouser length, meanwhile, should be to the shoe heel. Long-sleeved tops or slim, fine knit jumpers work well under jackets. Stores such as Topman and Zara are good for simple basics.
SLIM
Mark Andrew Kelly
TIPS ON HOW TO DRESS WELL FOR YOUR BODY FRAME
Horizontal stripes and patterns can look great on slimmer builds as they give the illusion of making you wider or broader. Fine layers of clothes, rather than big bulky coats or jackets, are far more flattering to the skinny male. For more fashion-conscious men, brands such as Acne, Lanvin and Paul Smith have great options in slimmer cut clothes. Look also to Burberry Prorsum and Dior Homme, whose style is both directional and effortlessly chic. One- or two-button jackets are the most flattering on a slim build. The best jackets will accentuate your shoulders and will taper at the waist.
Cillian Murphy
Two-button Maghera jacket by Ted Baker
Overweight
Bear economy “Having a slightly rotund shape is not the end of the fashion world,” stresses stylist Joanne Costelloe, “but it does require that certain guidelines be considered when it comes to choosing fabrics, colours and, most importantly, cuts. The key is knowing what garments work best on a broader frame and what subtle styling tricks can be used to create a visually sliming effect.”
Joanne Costello Two-button pinstripe suit, €349, Magee
TIPS ON HOW TO DRESS WELL FOR YOUR BODY FRAME Wear correctly fitting clothes. You may not have your personal tailor on speed dial but that doesn’t mean you can’t have the odd garment altered so that it sits that little bit better. Stores such as Brown Thomas, House of Fraser, Arnotts and Hackett offer alteration services. Make sure your shirt is a lighter colour than your suit, which is a simple way to create a slimming effect. Dark colours, such as black, chocolate brown, charcoal, navy blue, and dark grey, create a more slimming look. And as it happens, all these colours are very popular this season. Likewise, navy, grey, and black suits should be the staple of your tailoring. The cut of your jeans should work for your proportion and not the whims of fashion. Straight-leg jeans are slimming and give the visual effect of lengthening the leg. If you have a thick neck, double chin or a short neck, turn your coat collar up for an instantly slimming look. Leave the top couple of buttons of a shirt undone so that there is an angle that slims the face and neck. A broader than average knot in the neck tie is a visually slimming trick that can work wonders. Opt for V-neck casual sweaters which will create the illusion of a smaller neckline. Wear shirts with pockets to cover up any man boobs.
James Corden
A two-button suit is slimming around the waist.
Style Mistakes To Avoid Don’t wear ill-fitting clothes. If garments are too tight or baggy, they will only make you look bigger. Always opt for the right fit. Avoid wearing horizontal stripes as they emphasise width and rotund stomach areas. Steer clear of trouser turn-ups as the horizontal line will add width. Give a wide berth to high or round neck lines in any garment, neither of which is flattering to the larger male. Similarly, if you have a chubby, round face, give turtlenecks the cold shoulder – they can make you look heavy in the neck area, even if you’re not. Football shirts and sports jerseys should be worn on the sports field only. Worn casually, their glossy fabric catches the light, draws attention to the size of the torso and, worst of all, makes a rotund man look larger. Bulky wallets can ruin the line of clothing. Try to keep just keep the essentials on you for a streamlined effect.
stylefile
Short
short odds “The shorter male faces something of a slight disadvantage when it comes to finding threads that fit properly, as few manufacturers make clothes for men who are shorter than 5’5”,” says stylist Liam Power. But that’s not to say that a compact size is incompatible with a smart look. Thankfully, as Power reveals below, there are various styling tips that can visually add a few inches - without resorting to Bono-style platforms. Liam Power Selected button-up jumper, €44.95; Selected Don’t beshirt, afraid to check €39.95, Arnotts show off the cuff
TIPS ON HOW TO DRESS WELL FOR YOUR BODY FRAME Bono
of your shirt as it lengthens your arms.
There’s no shame in buying a short length suit. It is all about proportion, streamlining the body and giving the illusion of height. Try a brand like M&S that sells suit jackets in short (S) or regular (R) sizes. Go for darker colours as they create an illusion of height. Similarly, vertical lines and narrow stripes will flatter your shape. Wear a structured jacket with a narrow lapel and a lower button. Proportioned shoulder pads and slightly tailored jackets create a V-shape to your torso that will make you look taller. Slim ties look much better on shorter men and remain very popular this year. Keep your trousers streamlined with a little break in the fabric as this tends to create longer lines.
Jeff Banks tie, €27, Debenhams
Style Mistakes To Avoid Try before you buy. It sounds obvious, but trying clothes
in front of a mirror (particularly at a distance of three metres or so) is crucial - many clothes that look good on a rail or a slim, six-foot mannequin may not look quite so dapper on the shorter man. Avoid long sleeves and trousers. Alterations work to your advantage so, whether in-store or at your local dry cleaner, avail of this useful and inexpensive service. Wide ties will accentuate your short height. Stick to more flattering narrow designs. If your trousers fit well, don’t wear a belt. Sometimes, a belt introduces a divide in your look and creates the visual effect of ‘breaking’ you in half. Avoid round shoes with thick soles. Aside from being dowdy, they will visually drag your body height down. If you have short legs, avoid jeans with a low-waist as these will make you look even shorter. Stack or platform heels might add a couple of inches but keep your dignity and leave these to the circus performers. And rock stars.
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Go for flat-front trousers as opposed to pleats. The narrow shape of the former is more flattering than the shortening, bulky look that pleated pants can create.
Slender, narrow shoes create a longer line for a short body. They don’t need to be super pointy, but elegant cap or apron toe shoes with a bit of heel will flatter your height.
Crockett & Jones brogues, €420, Brown Thomas
Tall
Long Shot The fashion catwalk may be populated exclusively by tall models, looking like they’ve tapped into the ultimate gene pool. However, when it comes to clothes shopping, if you are on the tall side there are some challenges. “As with any body shape, it’s all about re-proportioning your body,” advises stylist Cathy Connor. “Rather than looking too long and lean, the aim is to create the illusion of width.” And here she shows how. Cathy O’Connor
TIPS ON HOW TO DRESS WELL FOR YOUR BODY FRAME If you are tall and thin, pieces that add a little width will work best. Choose wider ties, jackets with decent size lapels - anything that causes the eye to follow a horizontal line, rather than a vertical one.
Two-button jackets will work best as the more buttons on the jacket, the more it will exaggerate height. Double-breasted jackets or blazers tend to look particularly well on the taller man as they create the illusion of width.
If you have an elongated neck, select formal shirts with a high collar. This season’s Brompton shirt style with a long button-down collar will be perfect for you. Polo shirts and polos are a great option for a more casual look.
Have your trousers fitted to your exact height. Hackett, for instance, sells un-hemmed trousers, so that they can be tailored to exactly the right length.
Stephen Merchant
If you have long arms, Irish knitwear designer Edmund McNulty produces longer length sleeves in luxurious and stylish knits. Look also to Marks & Spencer which stocks longer sleeve lengths for shirts and jackets that work wonders for tall frames.
Style Mistakes To Avoid Steer away from ‘cuffed’ trousers, as they may elongate your legs even more. Contrary to what you might have been told, baggy is not a good look. Instead, go for slim clothes
and layer up (in moderation, obviously). Added layers will bulk up your upper body. Rather than wearing just one colour, which will elongate your body, break it up. Multiple pieces in co-ordinating colours will break up the expanse of one colour.
While a shorter man wearing pattern might resemble a circus performer, taller men can embrace it! A moderate amount of pattern will inject personality into a formal look.
✓ Go for slim clothes and layer up.
Like any man, the fit of your clothes is crucial, so it’s all about where you shop. Good sources of clothes for the tall man include Gant at Dundrum Town Centre, which offers a 36” leg length, shirts with double buttons on the cuff, so you can lengthen the sleeves. Online retailer www.mrbigmenswear.com, meanwhile, has leg lengths of 38” and longer jacket sleeves.
medium height
Mr Average Men of medium height and build don’t face as many sartorial challenges as their smaller or larger counterparts - but that’s not to say they don’t exist. Naturally, men of medium build will Darren Kennedy want to dress to maxi mise their height and appear slimmer. “As far as clothing is concerned,” explains stylist Darren Kennedy, “it’s all about trickery of the eye and opting for garments that will help to streamline your look.”
Ryan Giggs
Pattern is another big trend this season with Navajo and Fair Isle prints both being very popular. But choose wisely if you’re going down this road. A small splattering of print is fine but don’t get carried away, unless you know exactly what you’re doing.
Contemporary menswear is all about texture and fabric. Rich tweeds are tailored to perfection while luxurious cable knits, patchwork jackets, cords and leather all offer a more preppy style for casual comfort.
Tips on how to dress well for your body frame Your top priority should be wearing well-cut, good quality fabrics with an excellent fit.
Subtle details (such as epaulettes), rolling up your shirt sleeves, or the addition of a pocket square can really up your style quotient.
In terms of suiting, double-breasted suits are very on-trend and can look great. Bear in mind, they can only be worn with buttons closed so they are less versatile and more formal than singlebreasted.
Regardless of which style jacket you choose, always avoid super skinny-fit trousers.
A fitted shirt is a musthave. The new Arrow collection at Arnotts, for instance, includes some superb formal and casual designs.
STYLE MISTAKES TO AVOID Avoid wearing three-quarter length trousers. The current trend for wearing
chinos rolled up to the ankle may be very ‘now’ but you need to remember this has the potential to make your legs appear shorter than they actually are. So don’t! Clothes that are too big , on the other hand, will swamp you and have the unwanted effect of making you seem shorter.
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When it comes to colour, match your shirt colour to your skin tone first and your suit second – you’ll be surprised with the difference it makes to your overall appearance.