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Luxury João Paulo Nunes reports on the latest trends in that classic wardrobe staple: the suit.
The big news in menswear this season? The return of the suit. To which the reflective response might be: yeah, right – did it ever actually go away? Surely, like the taxman, the poor and the queue at the post-office, the suit is always with us? But what we’re seeing now is something of a sartorial counterattack. A few years ago, with the dotcom dressdown era, it was all pale-blue button-down shirts and beige chinos; a new, informal uniform for a brave new business-casual world. The bubble has long since burst. We live in more uncertain times and, when the going gets rougher, a suit can be relied upon to confer – or at least imply – confidence. Plus, this time round, it’s a logical extension of the preppy look that’s been a feature of the last couple of seasons. Rigid dresscodes have certainly relaxed, but men have been discovering the joys of dressing up again. Consequently, there’s a huge choice of garments out there right now. Whatever your perference - be it singleor double-breasted, one- or two-button, a solitary central vent or two - there’s a wealth of choice on the market this season as our round-up will attest. And whether your budget is high street or high end, there’s no shortage of options.
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➧ gentlemen wear PLAID
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One of the most discernible trends in suiting this season is the the predominance of highquality fabrics, many of which feature classic houndstooth or Prince of Wales check. Plaid has been adopted as the principal pattern of choice and makes a memorable appearance in a host of collections, including those by Givenchy, Kenzo and Ralph Lauren. And it’s proving popular, too. House of Fraser is witnessing a noticeable rise in sales of items such as Paul Smith Prince of Wales check suits in green, or pink three-piece dogtooth check; while sales of neatly checked suits are soaring at Hackett.
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A modern-cut suit in a timehonoured material has longevity and is always a shrewd investment. You should always buy your correct size, but you then need to have a tailor customise it to your body; it’s the difference between being appropriately dressed and being stylishly dressed this season.
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➧ tinker tailored Another ubiquitous trend is the return of the tailored suit as inspired by silhouettes of the 1970s and early 1980s. Many collections, including those by Ermenegildo Zegna, John Richmond, Salvatore Ferragamo and Tom Ford, include tight-fitting jackets with wider lapels and more double-breasted versions than ever before. Suit jackets are tailored in a way that the expectation is that only the top button (in the case of two) or the middle one (in the case of three buttons) is to be buttoned up. Shoulders, meanwhile, tend to be narrower and accentuate the natural shape of the torso. The cut of trousers contributes to this flattering elongation of the male shape by resorting to a lower waist line that extends the dimensions of the hips, whereas fabric will be tight at the thighs and slightly flared below the knee.
stylefile
➧ RETRO SLEEK Similar images of luxury from the 1970s are expected to be witnessed in the numerous versions of velvet suits and dinner jackets. Like the ongoing popularity of plaid, the velvet dinner jacket has been a revived sartorial staple in men’s wardrobes over recent seasons. Its presence in a considerable number of menswear collections indicates that velvet garments are expected to be more popular than ever with consumers, and for quite a few more seasons.
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➧ THROUGH THE AGES If the aforementioned trends have seduced audiences in Milan, Paris and New York, Ireland has also been quick to embrace the appreciation of heritage and luxury. Irish label Magee, for instance, continues to experience a celebration of heritage and tradition that has been widespread in the fashion industry. Following the popularity of its ‘Heritage’ knitwear collection in 2010, the label has expanded and developed a ‘Heritage’ accessory range for its current winter collection
100% wool navy striped suit, €349, Magee
“The ‘trim’ aesthetic is a key trend for autumn/ winter 2011. Hackett’s collection for this season adheres to the rules of formal in it luxury while breaking nel su tt ir f lan May fa Hacke , 0 0 them for modernity’s al, €1,0 c ha r c o sake: jackets are cut shorter and sharper, and trousers are sleeker. At the same time, fabrics, collars and ties use high-quality fabrics from respected mills. Overall, detailing is key”. Paul Sally, manager, Hackett
Meanwhile, in the UK, department store chain John Lewis has recently launched a heritage menswear label after delving for inspiration into its own archives.
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“There is certainly a feeling of nostalgia in the air. Heritage brands like Barbour and Magee play their part with tweeds and checks for jackets that are mixed with chinos and knitwear to complete the look.”
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Valerie O’Neill, Director of Menswear at Arnotts, reiterates the idea that consumers have embraced heritage and lavishness with gusto:
One-button suit,€199, Topman
➧ Quality fabrics “Velvets add a touch of luxury whether used as a trim on collars of overcoats - as seen in garments by Paul Costelloe and Simon Carter - and the more adventurous consumer can find full velvet blazers with beaded edges, like the ones designed by Patrick Cox. This season, innovative details, trims and linings are important, and fabrics and yarns such as wool, velvets, and cashmere create a real feeling of luxury for the customer.” Valerie O’Neill, Director of Menswear at Arnotts
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There is little doubt that the popularity of high-quality fabrics, strong attention to detail and the prevalence of plaid and velvet address the global collective need for style, luxury and optimism. Whether this is because of demand by consumers in buoyant economies who wish to spend their disposable income, or from men who wish to escape the doom and gloom of recession by way of embracing the social status that fashion can bring, trends such as vibrant hues, heritage, and luxury in the designs of suits are expected to remain more popular than ever for the foreseeable future.