stylefile
Stylist João Paulo Nunes shares some pearls of wisdom on how to pick the perfect suit – and maybe even enjoy yourself in the process
How to Buy
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et’s face it, the thought of purchasing a suit does not always fill most of us with glee. In fact, for the majority of men, suit shopping ranks alongside Christmas with the in-laws, paying accountants and asking for directions. With a little know-how and some advance preparation, however, picking the perfect suit can be a pleasure, rather than a chore. What’s more, get it right and you’ll be rewarded with one of the best buys of your life: a sharp whistle that will feel like a suit of armour and will give you a whole new level of swagger. Confused? You needn’t be. Here’s how...
IRISH TATLER MAN
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DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKETS SHOW NO SIGN OF GOING AWAY BUT FOR SPRING/SUMMER THEY ARE CERTAINLY MORE RELAXED AND ARE OFTEN AVAILABLE WITH LESS INTERNAL STRUCTURE”
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TOBY BATEMAN, BUYING DIRECTOR, MR PORTER
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NO TIME LIKE THE PRESENT You may not be aware of this but the warmer months are the best time to go suit shopping as high quality medium and thin fabrics are more widely available and easier to find in the summer. Hold off until autumn or winter and your options will be limited to heavier suit fabrics which may well appear elegant and stylish but can be uncomfortable to wear indoors, especially when the central heating is on. You can, of course, invest in a smart overcoat to protect you, but the suit should always be made of comfortable, thinner materials. Remember, though, that linen is a non-negotiable option when it comes ic suit ey t o n ght gr to the ideal suit. Always go for 100% wool, as that is, li e ams in ebenh Re d L €54 , D hands down, the most suitable fabric for a versatile Red Herring s r e s trou €132, suit to wear all year round. jacket lue Re e d b 99 Austin uit, €4 b one s g in r r he
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FACTOR IN ADEQUATE TIME
If you need to buy a suit, you just need to face the task at hand and get on with it. Procrastination does not help, so book a few hours to hit the retail FAIL TO PREPARE, trail and get ready to flex some plastic. PREPARE TO FAIL Be prepared for the fact that buying If you intend to buy a business suit, make a suit will involve spending more time sure that you wear a shirt and formal shoes in changing rooms disrobing and when you embark on your suit search. It may not seem important, but it’s crucial trying your options on than most other to know what the jacket collar will look like garments, so make sure to allow plenty with a business shirt, so avoid wearing, of time and avoid rushing and getting say, a T-shirt when you’re suit shopping. stressed. If your budget affords the high Similarly, you would be surprised at how differently trousers look and feel with the end of tailoring, head to the premium right pair of shoes – most business or department stores where you can formal shoes tend to have a discreet heel browse the designer brands. But deep that needs to be taken into consideration pockets are not a prerequisite for when measuring the in-seam length of formal trousers. As you will almost sartorial splendour – the high street certainly need to make alterations to the is now awash with well-cut suits whose length of your trousers, always remember fit and finish belie their mid-market to put on the shoes that you will be wearing price points. with your suit on the day.
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stylefile
➧ SOLO MISSION
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Bear in mind that this is an important purchase as you will be spending quite a bit of time of your life wearing that suit. Moreover, more often than not, you will have to part with hundreds (if not thousands) of Euros, so think carefully how you want to go about spending them. In most cases, the temptation is to go shopping for a suit with your other half or a friend. From experience, this is a big mistake. They will go with you but will most probably decide to look around for something for themselves, or wander into other shops or department stores and leave you to make the choice. If they stick by your side, they will most probably tend to select what they like and not what actually looks good on you or what you feel comfortable wearing. Take the risk, go on your own and trust your instinct. After all, practice makes perfect.
ASK THE PROS While it can pay to shop alone, don’t overlook the usefulness of trained sales staff. When you arrive at a store, make a beeline towards the most dapper salesman that you find wearing a suit on the shop floor. From experience, the best-dressed staff are usually the ones that know the most about suits and are best positioned to advise others.
LET RESTRAINT BE THE ORDER OF THE DAY
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Avoid the temptation to be adventurous and buy separate jackets and trousers of different colours and patterns. While it may be true that, when mixed properly, mis-matched jackets and trousers can look amazing, few of us are blessed with a stylist’s touch, so it’s best to play safe and buy a suit with matching jacket and trousers. Loud linings, meanwhile, may be tempting and you may find yourself considering buying a suit whose sombre exterior belies its ultra-flash, patterned interior. Again, modesty is the best policy here: remember that you want to be noticed for who you are, rather than for the bright shade of your suit lining.
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IRISH TATLER MAN
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MAKE IT YOUR OWN Once purchased, you should make your suit your own. This does not mean that you have to get a sewing kit out to customise your jacket or trousers at home, but if the jacket sleeves or the trouser legs are too long, don’t hesitate to alter them. Good shops will make alterations for you for free or for a small price when you purchase the suit. If not, find a local tailor or even a dry cleaner that can make alterations. As a rule, the jacket sleeves should never meet the wrist any lower than the base of the thumb and the legs should end one inch above the sole of the shoe.
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Suit traditionalists and purists will usually tell you that you should favour suits with metal, wood or Corozzo buttons (which are crafted from ground nuts). As expected, these materials make suits more expensive and, in reality, they add very little to the overall look and feel. These days, plastic buttons are the most commonly found and they can do a fine job. Whatever style of button you choose, always remember that when wearing a two-button and single-buttoned jacket, you always leave the bottom button undone. This is done to accentuate the waist line while making you appear slimmer and your shoulders look broader.
ALL THAT GLITTERS IS NOT GOLD Over time you’ll likely notice that your once pristine suit becomes slightly shiny, particularly after it pays a few visits to the dry cleaners. This has usually to do with the pressing machines that most dry cleaners still use, and there is very little that you can do about it. However, as this consequence may take a few years to be noticed, wear your suit with pride and enjoy it until you no longer can. By the time you need to buy a new one, you’ll be a dab hand in sourcing the perfect suit. ITM
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