NRL March 2013

NASHVILLE ROSE LEAF

Official Publication of The Nashville Rose Society Serving Rose Enthusiasts Throughout Middle Tennessee

March 5th NRS Vendor Night at Cheekwood 6:30 PM Refreshments & 7:00 PM Vendor Program march 2013 Volume 46, Issue 2

New Roses for 2013!

Looking for something new?

Photos courtesy of Weeks Roses

Check out some of the new introductions this season. From hybrid teas to floribundas, from grandifloras to shrubs there is something for everyone. All of the roses you see are available locally at S & W Greenhouse in White House, TN.

Affiliated with the American Rose Society - www.ars.org

‘Dark Night’

is a uniquely novel colored rose; sure to please both rose aficionados and those attracted to the dark side. Dark Night™ holds its strong dark color and flower size even in the heat. The color can be described as deep velvet red with a cream yellow reverse suffused with red. It has a very classic hybrid tea form with one flower per stem.

‘Coretta Scott King’ As delectable as your

favorite childhood creamcicle treat, elegant long buds of cream begin to ‘frost’ with blushes of corally orange as they spiral open. But this one doesn’t melt in your hands, it holds on to the plant for a great display of color and flower power...big clusters held high for all to see. Very good disease resistance means her ‘wrapper’ of green stays handsome in the garden for a full season of scrumptiousness.

A lip smackingly lovely grandiflora.

‘Bulls Eye’ ‘Francis Meilland’ ‘Francis Meilland’ is a tall hybrid tea rose with a very large bloom and strong fragrance. Created by Francis Meilland’s own daughter, Michou, it is only fitting that this new rose bears the name of the legendary breeder of the Peace Rose. A multiple award winner in Europe, it is the first hybrid tea rose to win the prestigious ADR contest in Germany where roses are observed for 2 years under no spray conditions.

2013 AARS winner!

This amazing novelty represents over 60 years of hybridizing effort that began with a once-blooming near-rose species that was yellow with a brown-red ‘eye’. The cranberry eye zone set at the base of each creamy white petal might remind you of Rose of Sharon and it keeps that novel marking until the flower finishes. Three inch semi-double flowers are borne in large clusters. The surprising twist for this unusual shrub is its superb blackspot resistance.

‘Diamond Eyes’

Mysteriously novel blackpurple…that alone draws some attention. But wait until you get a whiff of the strong clove spice perfume. That’s a killer combo that will seduce even regular rose lovers to try this little gem. Her sparkling white ‘eye’ lights up each velvety blossom, making the unique color illuminate against the background of glossy green leaves. Tucks easily into any landscape

President’s Column Hello NRS supporters!

members

and

As you are well aware, Vendor Night happens during our next meeting.

The length of the actual meeting will be determined by how many speakers we will have to address us. I don’t mean to be vague, but it is important that we all are made aware of any new products that are being introduced. Rose growers in Middle Tennessee will probably always spray for fungal diseases but organic products to control pests, without harming beneficial insects, is something that we are all interested in.

I am currently trying to arrange for a speaker who can address the issues of spraying, along with using companion plants to attract beneficial insects to our gardens. There will be more information about this as I get it.

Every year, we try to have a pruning demonstration for our newer members. These demos usually offer us the chance to sell roses to raise funds and attract new members. A location is being researched. If you haven’t pruned in your garden and would like some help, please offer your garden to us for a teachable moment. We will manage the event for you.

The Tenarky Winter Workshop was a wonderful event, as usual.

Thanks again to Sam & Nancy Jones, who worked tirelessly. The speakers were experts in their respective fields and many were very entertaining. The event was attended by society members as far away as Illinois and one speaker, Baldo Villegas, flew in from California. Baldo has not sprayed anything in his garden for two years. He is an entomologist and combats pest insects by attracting beneficials.

Chris VanCleave was our featured guest speaker at our February meeting. He started to blog about his rose hobby and that has led to a weekly 2

Rose Chat Radio Show. He was very informative and entertaining. His enthusiasm was in evidence throughout his presentation. And for us in the “computer unsavvy” world, he logged on to his Internet radio show and chatted live via Twitter. Thanks to Chris and his lovely wife, Tina, for their generosity.

I hope you have all placed your orders with Gary Spencer. See you at the next meeting.

—— Tom Beath

Editor’s Desk

While it is primarily my habit to center each month’s editor’s column around the subject of roses, I have found it necessary this month to address a certain unauthorized change my “co-editor” inserted at the end of my column last month. (Editor’s Note: Who is she calling “co-editor”?

I am the Chief Editor!)

For those of you who read the column, it was a piece concerning Rose Angels and Rose Demons and it seems that my co-editor hubby thought it would be cute to embellish my work by identifying himself as a Rose Angel, simultaneously identifying me as the dreaded Rose Demon. I made no such distinction in my column but I will allow Jim’s actions in this regard to speak for the truth. Jim and I had words about the issue. (Editor’s Note: LOUD words).

He agreed that it was inappropriate for him to change my work without my consent. (Editors Note: I did agree not to alter the literary mutterings of her highness, however, I didn’t say anything about my authority to “add” to them).

Please be assured that Jim expressed remorse for his actions and issued a very sincere apology. (Editor’s Note: You would too if your

nashville rose leaf, march 2013

wife made menacing reminders of how often she is “alone” with your food). It is my belief that Jim understands the serious nature of his offense. (Editor’s Note: Isn’t her righteous indignation adorable?)

It is my hope that everyone can find a way to forgive Jim for this egregious abuse of his authority. (Editor’s Note: I would neither use the word “egregious” nor “abuse” but then again, I’m not a drama queen).

Of course, this was not the first time Jim made a blundering editor error and it is likely not to be his last.

For instance, (Editor’s Note: blah, blah, blah, this is where she yammers on for too many paragraphs so I scratched a lot of stuff here, the short version being that Jim is a very bad boy). And so we will leave the issue of “professional ethics” for another discussion. (Editor’s Note: You’re kidding me, right?

This months editor’s column is about last month’s editor’s column. No professional lines being crossed there!)

It is my sincere hope that (Editor’s Note: No real comment here. I just love interrupting her) next month we can resume our editor rose rantings. (Editor’s Note: Seeing as most of the roses are still in some form of dormancy, not really much to rant about, but heaven forbid I change a single word). I would be very surprised if Jim engaged in such childish behavior again (Editor’s Note: SURPRISE!!)

Jim and I have come to an understanding on the consequences of future discretions in this regard. So with that, I bid you a happy March as I take leave to prepare Jim’s dinner. (Editor’s Note: Uh Oh).

—— Starla “Rose Devil” Harding & —— Jim “Chief Editor” Harding

Pruning Hybrid Teas- Yikes!!!!

By Mary Bates, ARS Consulting Rosarian Of all the rose care tasks, pruning is the most intimidating one for me. As a long time gardener, cutting live healthy growth when it is cold outside freaks me a little. I know my goal is to renew my roses, encourage strong growth and control the size.(Those blooms on top of my seven foot hybrid teas were hard to enjoy last year). I know roses are tough.

I guess their beautiful delicate blooms just throw me off.

My hybrid teas are three years old, and I realize that I have been able to sneak by the pruning issue. After all the American Rose Society advises, “Don’t be too harsh when pruning young plants. Until plants are well established, usually two to three years old, remove only weak, damaged, diseased or dead wood. There will be plenty of time to remove old canes when new canes develop.”

Prune when the forsythia blooms or when the buds swell before they leaf out, echoes in my head. (I guess that means the forsythia in your own yard or neighborhood as each yard is a separate microclimate.) Now it is time to get serious! I have disinfected my Felcos with 3 in 1 Lysol Spray Cleaner. Master Rosarian, Ted Mills recommends dipping pruners in a solution of Clorox between pruning each bush. Some rosarians advise using rubbing alcohol on a clean cloth to wipe the blades. I had read in an article in American Rose Magazine that stated many roses are lost because of contaminated pruners and often disease is transferred from one plant to another.

Remove any dead, diseased or damaged branches. There they were- broken by the winter winds. As I continued to look at my roses, I noticed brown dead branches and stubs that had died back over the winter. Cut dead branches flush with the bud union. I have a little saw that will work great-just the right size for the job.

If your bush is several years old, remove old canes flush with the bud union to make room for new canes. (Basal canes

often sprout under the winter protection and appear as fat white canes.)

After this was done I thought, “What am I trying to do here? How do I want my roses to look?”

I remember visiting Dr. Spruiell’s garden and how fat and sturdy the canes looked and how each branch held the heavy roses. Select strong healthy canes that will support the new year’s growth.

(I guess if the blooms are on the ground covered with mulch and dirt after a heavy rain, those stems must be too weak.)

Remove any twiggy growth smaller than the size of a pencil. Remove branches that cross through the bush to open the center of the bush up to sunlight and airflow. According to the American Rose Society, “If several canes are growing into the center and crossing each other, open up the center of the bush by cutting the branches to the point of origin”. Inward canes keep light and air from the center of the bush. Dark dense areas promote disease and mildew.

When I picked up the clipped branches, I was surprised to see they filled a large construction sized wheel barrow. I was also surprised to see that I was working without gloves. (Not recommended.)

There were no pricks or scratches on my hands. Maybe that’s key if you are careful and gentle with your roses they will in turn be kind to you. Next time I will remember my gloves- not the mud type I usually wear but my leather pair. (Last year my leather pair became hard when I accidentally wet them but after I threw them in the dryer for a few minutes with a couple of sheets of Bounce, they were as soft as ever) According to rosarian advice, proper cuts start at a 45 degree angle about ¼ inch above an outfacing bud. The upper point of the cut should be slightly above the eye with the lower cut being on the opposite side of the stem from the bud. This angle will allow water to run off rather than sit on the cut. All

cuts should be clean-not jagged. That’s why we sharpened our tools in February, right? (It is not too late to sharpen and disinfect your tools for the season.)

Cut at an outer bud so the new growth will grow away from the center of the bush. Although this seems to make sense in most cases, sometimes you might want the cane to grow up closer to the center of the bush just for the symmetry of the bush. In either case, you should cut in the direction you want your cane to grow.

Pruning down to a thick white center is desirable. New growth will start at a growing point directly below the pruning point.

But exactly where do I cut? My roses are quite tall so I will have to go back inside to read a bit more to decide how much to cut.

After considerable reading I have come to the conclusion there are several schools of thought regarding pruning of hybrid teas.

Light Pruning - Rosarians generally agree light pruning of hybrid teas is only for the faint hearted or those who don’t know any better. Light pruning will result in a bushy plant with small blooms high in the air on weak stems and is not recommended.

Moderate Pruning - Moderate pruning recommends visually dividing the bush into three equal parts and removing the top 1/3 of the bush.

Heavy Pruning - Heavy pruning recommends removing the canes about half way to the ground.

Severe Pruning - Severe Pruning recommends reducing the bush by two thirds. Sometimes the height you prune will be determined by the amount of winter-kill. After initial pruning a late freeze may cause further dieback so more will have to be removed.

(Cont’d on page 6)

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The Rose Industry is Not Dead!

By Bill De Vor of Greenheart Farms, Nor’East Division

We house well in excess of 800 varieties of miniature and mini flora roses from a wide range of hybridizers. We have over 400 varieties of groundcovers, shrubs, hybrid teas and climbers from every major rose breeder in the world; we see everything.

We produce and sell in excess of 6 million roses a year and that number is increasing by about 15% a year; my main competitor produces about 8 million roses a year of about 20 varieties. Our focus is on small to medium size outlets and my competitor’s focus is the larger box store type outlets.

We began operating Nor’East in 2004 and it was my first and definitely my last experience in running a retail operation.

Any mail order business or independent garden center should be cherished and supported because that is where we are going to find unique roses; if they don’t have them--ask and they will find them.

We are selling triple the amount of miniature and mini flora roses than we did when we were running Nor’East as a retail operation.

The rose industry isn’t dead. It is changing. My grandfather saw this change beginning in the mid-1970’s and he told me exactly what was going to

True Pearl

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happen and it did. The change escalated in the early 1990’s and the struggle for the industry to hold on to what it knew and how it knew to do it. This eventually caused its own demise.

First, the product form needed to change. We were producing two yearold field grown plants which required a lot of land, labor and water. The retail markets were changing far too fast and being able to predict and respond to what was happening didn’t work when you needed two to three years to produce a crop and get it to market. The cost of production was too high and the losses were too great.

Second, the average gardener became afraid of our product as it was hard to grow and needed far too much maintenance.

Third, the average gardener needs help making choices; collections of roses, not individual varieties, are easier to sell; marketing for a collection is much easier both for an introducer and a retailer. Think about Campbell soups or Progresso soups and think of them as a collection and then look at all the varieties of soup in the collection.

It’s easier to order 7-8 varieties of a collection then dancing around trying to pick 7-8 individual varieties. The selection is already done for you. That is what rose consumers want. It’s easy to see a Hall of Fame collection or an Award of Excellence collection in the garden centers when you look at it that way.

Star Ruby

nashville rose leaf, march 2013

Citrine

We did that with standard Nor’East varieties with our ‘Table to Garden’ collection which is probably one of the largest offering of miniatures anywhere, the micro-miniatures in our ‘Garden Treasures’ collection which launches at Walmart this spring, or the ‘My Bouquet’ collection with Frank Benardella and Jim Sproul’s minifloras, now in over 400 Lowe’s stores and growing. All of this came from building collections and treating roses as groups rather than individual varieties.

Promoting collections of roses satisfies the need for economies of scale, consumer anxiety and lack of knowledge over selecting of proven varieties and reassurance about low care maintenance and disease resistance.

The pictures below are all part of the ‘Garden Treasures’ collection referenced in this article. They are the product of different decades in the 20th century from breeders as diverse as Jan de Vink, Harm Savile and Ralph Moore.

But they share traits like disease resistance, easy-to-grow, self -cleaning, low maintenance, hardy to the Zone 4b, proven floriferousness, and compact growth—with no rose more than a foot in height or a foot in width. They represent the Nor’East Micro-miniature collection of proven plants that eliminates the need to plow through differing sources to focus on the right plants in the right place.

Reprinted from the Ventura Rose, March 2012, James Delahanty, editor.

Gold Medallion

All photos courtesy of Greenheart Farms

I want to make a few comments and these comments come from a fourth generation rose grower who eats and breathes roses every moment of the day and night--not only for business, but because it is a large part of who I am.

Spring Foreword

By Tom Beath, Consulting Rosarian We all benefit when we hear other’s personal experiences and realize that there is more than one method or technique to growing beautiful roses.

Hopefully you tested the pH of your soil last Fall. If not, do it now. What is pH? Simply put, pH is the logarithm of the reciprocal of the hydrogen-ion concentration, in gram equivalents per liter of solution. That reciprocal is ten million.

The log of ten million is seven, so pH is seven. But I am sure that everyone already knows that.

For our purposes, pH is the symbol of the degree of acidity or alkalinity of our soil. Seven is considered neutral. A number less than seven indicates acidity, while a number greater than seven indicates alkalinity.

Roses prefer a slightly acidic pH soil of 6 – 6.5. This is the range where most of the mineral elements are at maximum availability to our roses. That statement is very important. You can have the best, most friable soil that drains excess water away and is loaded with every type of organic element, nutrient and micronutrient known to exist. If your soil’s pH is incorrect, none of those will be available to your roses.

We could dive into the ocean and catch lobsters on the sandy bottom but we couldn’t pull them apart and eat them because we can’t breathe underwater. In the same way, roses can’t partake of the abundance of food around them, unless the soil pH is within their required range.

One year, NRS member Ron Daniels stood up here waving his pH meter, drumming into us the importance of knowing and, or correcting your soil’s pH. Know what yours is.

Fall is the best time to adjust your soil’s pH, but there is no time like the present if changes need to be made. Test your soil pH. The addition of limestone will increase alkalinity and sulphur will increase acidity, if necessary.

A professional soil test will recommend the rate of these additions in lbs. per sq. foot and can be done by the Ellington Agricultural Center, or many of the County Co-ops.

Spring is the time to start caring for your roses. Getting them off to a healthy start includes removing any winter protection that you placed around them last Fall, pruning them and starting this years’ spray and fertilizer programs.

The timing of our Spring rose care can begin when one or all of these three situations occurs. One, the forsythia blooms, the leaf buds begin to swell on our rose plants or the 3rd week of March rolls around.

Carefully remove the mulch or winter protection that you put in place, taking care to avoid damaging any new growth. New, basal breaks or canes are the future of that particular rose. Here in Zone 7a, it would be wise to recover our roses with whatever winter protection or mulch that we had in place.

Generally speaking, begin pruning by removing dark brown discoloration from the more vigorous canes that you’ve chosen to keep. You must prune down to creamy white wood. Cut out old stems to the crown. Also, remove any crossing or rubbing branches and canes that are growing into the middle of the plant. They will eventually interfere with the growth and development of other canes.

Always prune to an outward facing bud to set the shape for this years’ growth.

The pruning cut should be ¼ of an inch above an outward facing bud and angled down and away from that bud. A small dab of Elmer’s Wood Glue can prevent problems caused by cane borers.

All roses are not equal. I don’t just mean that Don Gill’s hybrid teas look better than mine, but different roses are pruned in a manner specific to their type.

For instance, Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras and Floribundas bloom on new wood. Remove dead and weak wood.

Create an open vase shape. Leave 3 - 5 healthy canes, evenly spaced around the plants and cut them back to 18 – 24 inches, at a quarter of an inch above an outward facing bud. With the Grandifloras and Floribundas, you may leave some smaller, branching canes because they produce an inflorescence of blooms that take longer to grow and open.

Ramblers and other once blooming roses get their more severe pruning after flowering. However, you can cut out dead wood or winter damage or prune to keep size and shape in check.

Climbers flower on mature wood, last year’s growth or older, and on the side shoots that grow from the main canes.

Depending on space, select 3 – 6 healthy main canes and completely remove any others. Older canes can be removed if newer canes are available for replacements. Prune the side shoots to 3 or 4 buds. Canes should be trained horizontally for maximum bloom production.

Modern shrub roses are repeat bloomers. Use the 1/3 rule. Each year, remove 1/3 of the oldest canes on established plants and 1/3 of the height. You can remove 2/3s of the height if you want a smaller shrub.

This is also the time to start our spray program to prevent common fungus issues like blackspot, powdery mildew, rust and downy mildew. There are many rose care products on the market. Quite a few of us in the Nashville Rose Society purchase products from Rosemania, or our local County Co-ops.

As soon as we finish pruning, we spray with Mancozeb or Pentathlon DF. This will eliminate any black spot spores that may have overwintered. One week later, start your preventive spray program and continue until the next dormancy period. Rosemania recommends spraying with Banner Maxx or Honor Guard every two weeks, and adding Pentathlon (Cont’d on page 6)

nashville rose leaf, march 2013

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Pruning

(Cont’d from page 3)

Many rosarians in our area in East Tennessee cut their hybrid teas to about waist high after the second hard freeze just to reduce the size and prevent root damage caused by movement in the winter winds. When the forsythia bloom, they cut an additional 1/3 off the bush.

I guess pruning is a matter of judgment for each rosarian to decide for themselves. (I am just proud of myself for not being a light pruner) When pruning hybrid teas remember you are pruning to renew. Prune shorter than the desired size in order to allow for new growth. Often you can gauge pruning height according to past behavior of the plant.

Start pruning from the bud union and go up. The top growth is last year’s history.

Remove all leaves. I know the bush looks pretty bare, but we want pretty new leaves, don’t we?

Seal cuts with waterproof exterior Elmer’s Wood Glue. This prevents cane borers from eating their way all the way to the bud union. Cane borers often appear as a light brown color in the middle of white pith -just prune on down to white pith.

Again I bag up the rose clippings and head to the trash can. Rose clippings should not be composted as they often can spread disease from the previous season.

Whew! I am glad that is over. Pruning makes me nervous.

Note: This article was written several years ago, but I find these methods work well today as they have been passed down from generation to generation of rose growers.

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NRS News Vendor Night

Tuesday, March 5th is our annual Vendor Night. In addition to picking up your order there will be a short program where we get to hear a little from each of our Vendors who so generously share their time and knowledge.

Here is a list of the Vendors that will be participating.

•

Beaty’s Fertilizer

•

Compost Farm

•

Dickens Turf and Landscape

•

Dirt Dawg Nursery

•

Remarkable Roses

•

Happy Dawg Bakery

•

Southern Nurseries w/ Ron Daniels

Many Vendors bring extra product for sale at the meeting so if you may still find some things you need if you did not place an order this year. Thanks and we hope to see you there.

ARS Membership Every rosarian should be a member of the American Rose Society. The benefits far outweigh any costs. A full membership is only $49 a year. A four month trial membership is $10 (or $5 for current NRS members). And last but not least the ARS also offers a free e-membership.

So no matter what your budget, there is no excuse for not getting plugged into the ARS. To sign up you may complete the online form at www.ars.org or call toll free at 1-800637-6534.

nashville rose leaf, march 2013

Spring Foreword (Cont’d from page 5) DF or Mancozeb to the Banner Maxx every other spraying. Always mix in Indicate 5, a spreader/sticker that enables the spray to easily coat the top and undersides of the leaves. Choose a day for spraying that is consistently convenient to your schedule.

We don’t recommend spraying insecticides preventively because they also kill helpful insects. The insects and their damage should be evident. If it is necessary to spray insecticides, like Orthene, Merit or Talstar, they can be added to your spray mix or used when necessary.

Let’s not forget the wonderful talk about Beekeeping, given by Ken Correll.

Spray early in the morning or later in the evening when the bees are not flying, to protect that valuable resource.

It is safer to wait until after our last frost date, around the 15th of April, to fertilize. But you could add a slow release fertilizer like Osmocote or Mills Mix or Superphosphate, which doesn’t contain active nitrogen (nitrate), at this time. Fertilizing with active chemicals too early can push your roses into early growth only to have them zapped by a late freeze or “nipped in the bud”.

Fertilizing promotes new growth and lush blooms. Some people make their own fertilizer by combining 1c. cottonseed meal, 1c. bone meal, 1/2c. blood meal and 1/4c. Epsom salts per rose bush.

I’ve had lots of experience with Rosetone and Bayer products that are readily available at Home Depot or Lowe’s. So any products that I’ve mentioned or will mention are not the only ones available to us. This year, I’ll be using Mills Mix II and Bloomkote scratched into the top 2 inches of soil at the dripline of my rose plants. Also, I’ll be using Easy Feed as a liquid fertilizer. It is always best to investigate these products on your own.

Read all that you can and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

A Rose Lover’s Calendar

NRS, Tenarky, & ARS Coming Events For membership in the

MARCH 1-3

5

American Rose Society

Nashville Lawn & Garden Show, TN State Fairgrounds

you can either go to

NRS Meeting at Cheekwood Vendor Night 6:30 PM Refreshments 7:00 PM - Vendor Program

www.ars.org or ask about membership at the next

APRIL 2

NRS Meeting.

NRS Meeting at Cheekwood - Pickup Fortunia Roses!!!

6:30 PM Refreshments 7:00 PM - Program

MAY 7

NRS Meeting at Cheekwood 6:30 PM Refreshments 7:00 PM - Program

ARS Consulting Rosarians

Details & other event news available at www.nashvillerosesociety.com Nashville Rose Leaf is printed by: The Print Authority, Brentwood, Tennessee

Contributions

Nashville Rose Society is a 501c-3 organization and all contributions to the society are tax-deductible. Contributions may be made as memorials or to honor some person, group or occasion. Checks for contributions should be made payable to Nashville Rose Society and mailed to: MILLIE DOLINGER 59 Vaughn’s Gap Rd. Nashville, TN 37205 (615)352-3927

millieg713@yahoo.com

Nashville Rose Leaf

The Nashville Rose Leaf is published eleven times annually by the Nashville Rose Society, Nashville, TN Editors: Jim & Starla Harding, Sam Jones & Leann Barron Editorial Advisory Committee: Marty Reich

South Nashville Leann Barron Marty Reich*

(615) 269-0240 (615) 833-0791

West Nashville Tom Beath (615) 481.3589 Keith Garman (615) 352-6219 Sam* & Nancy Jones (615) 646-4138

Nashville Rose Society 2011 Officers President Tom Beath.........(615) 481.3589 Vice-Pres Gene Meyer........(615) 373-0303 Treasurer Gary Spencer......(615) 662-3819 Rec. S’ty Hayes Gibson .......(615) 794-1708 Cor. S’ty Millie Dolinger.....(901) 628-7137

Nashville Rose Society Membership

We are a non-profit organization serving the middle Tennessee area to educate persons on growing and exhibiting roses. Membership is open to everyone who supports the objectives of the organization. Annual dues of $20.00 per household include a subscription to The Nashville Rose Leaf, the official newsletter of the society. To join, send a check payable to Nashville Rose Society to: Marty Reich, 5020 Dovecote Dr., Nashville, TN 37220-1614 Phone: (615) 833-0791; E-mail: marty615@bellsouth.net

Disclaimer: While the advice and information in this newsletter is believed to be true and accurate at the time of publication, neither the authors nor the editor(s) accept any legal responsibility for any errors or omissions that may have been made.

The Nashville Rose Society makes no warranty, expressed or implied with respect to the material contained herein.

Brentwood Area Cecil* & Bessie Ward (615)373-2245 Jerry & Marise Keathley(615)377-3034 Franklin Area Anne Owen* (615) 794-0138 Logan* & Joan Shillinglaw(615) 790-7346 Robbie*&Marsha Tucker(615) 595-9187 Hendersonville Area Ron Daniels (615) 330-7083 Charles Lott (615) 824-5614 Jack Wedekind (615) 824-8696 Murfreesboro Area Dillard & Diane Lester(615) 896-0203 Columbia Area Lyle Worsham*

(931) 388-4547

Lebanon-Watertown Area Jeff Harvey (615) 268-7089 Jennifer Harvey (615) 268-7032 Denise Thorne (615) 237-9757 Duck River-Centerville Area Larry* & Connie Baird(931) 729-5259 Manchester Area Cindy Worch

(931) 723-2142

*Indicates ARS Master Rosarian

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NON-PROFIT OR G A N I Z A T I O N U.S. POSTAGE PAID BRENTWOOD, TN PERMIT NO. 162

5020 Dovecote Drive Nashville, TN 37220-1614 Address Service Requested

www.nashvillerosesociety.com

Highlights from the Tenarky Winter Workshop

by M. Hext, Consulting Rosarian Another informative Tenarky District Winter Workshop was held February 8-10 in Franklin, Tennessee. The workshops offered a variety of information for Tenarky rosarians. This year’s event was very well attended.

From the Friday night meal and speaker to the CR school on Sunday, rosarians were able to obtain a wealth of rose information thanks to excellent speakers obtained by our district director, Dr. Sam Jones. Friday night, Tom Stebbins entertained us with his presentation of “Sherlock Holmes in the Rose Garden.” Saturday, speakers included interesting and informative presentations from Carol Shockley on “Great Rose Choices for 2013,” Dr. Mark Windham on “Researching the Rose-Rosette Scourge,” Baldo Villegas on “Managing Rose Pests,” and Robbie Tucker on “Rose Growing that’s Simple, Fun, and Easy.”

We also heard from Richard Anthony who will now be selling roses from Whit Wells and Robbie Tucker along with others on his website: www.forloveofroses.com.

Claire Campbell, Tenarky District Director, Sam Jones, & Karen Long

Linda Kimmel & ARS Vice-President Pat Shanley

The dinner speaker was Pat Shanley, ARS Vice President, whose presentation was “A Rosy Future for Gardeners and the Industry.”

Thanks to a generous donation from Certified Roses, many attendees were able to come home with new roses from the annual district fund-raiser auction.

Left photo: Speaker panel answers questions - from left to right: Baldo Vilegas, Carol Shockley, Whit Wells, Richard Anthony, Robbie Tucker, Sam Jones Right photo: Baldo Villegas & Whit Wells