NrRL May 2014

NASHVILLE ROSE LEAF

Official Publication of The Nashville Rose Society Serving Rose Enthusiasts Throughout Middle Tennessee

May 6th NRS Meeting at Cheekwood 6:30 PM Refreshments 7:00 PM Sustainable Rose Care may 2014 Volume 47, Issue 4

Affiliated with the American Rose Society - www.ars.org

Saving Freeze Damaged Roses After a damaging freeze, don’t give up on your roses too quickly. Particularly, if many of your frozen roses were well established and on their own roots before the freeze, they may very well send up new canes from the roots. This advice can also work for grafted roses that were planted with the graft union (the knob) below the soil so that the rose has established ‘own roots’ above the graft union.

ing down into the roots and will kill the crown of the plant. When the rot travels into the crown and then into the roots, regeneration is much less likely. I will say though that, when digging up an own root rose, small pieces of root, left behind, will often regenerate. So, even if the crown is Sustainable Rose Care damaged, you might want to experiment with cutting away the damaged part of the crown, sterilizing The May meeting will feature a prothe cut, and waiting a few months gram that focuses on sustainable rose care practices in Middle Tennesee. NRS to see whether new canes emerge. member and consulting rosarian Cindy Worch will share her knowledge and experience that we can all benefit from.

May Program

Photo Courtesy of Jim Harding

NRS Spring Rose Show New Dates!

Canes that continue to die back after first spring pruning need additional pruning.

However, one thing is certain, if your roses are to regenerate from the roots, frozen canes that are piano key black must be trimmed back to white wood, or the freeze damage will continue travel-

Reminder that in an effort to counteract the affects of an abnormally hard winter the dates of the Nashville Rose Society spring rose show have been changed to June 14th and 15th. The rose show will still be held at the Cheek Botanical Garden and Museum of Art. Exhibitors and volunteers of the rose show have free admission as usual. For anyone not exhibiting or volunteering that wants to attend the rose show can also receive free admission if you are a member of the American Rose Society, Horticultural Society of Middle Tennessee , or Cheekwood.

NRS Fortuniana Rose Sale Thank you Charles and Tom! The annual Nashville Rose Society Fortuniana rose sale was once again a success. Thank you to everyone who ordered roses this year. We hope you have found good homes for your new roses in your garden.

A super hero thanks to Charles Lott who once again managed the rose sale and drove with Tom Beath to Tuscaloosa, Alabama to meet James Mills from K&M Roses to pick up this year’s crop of Fortuniana roses.

The combined efforts netted over $1100 to the Nashville Rose Society. Way to go For more information, contact Sam and thank you! and Nancy Jones – Co-Chairs at gsamj@bellsouth.net; or nancypj@

bellsouth.net

Foliar Feeding Your Roses

by Carolyn Elgar Plant nutrition can be a complicated subject. Basically, plants draw nutrients from the soil that have been transformed by microbic action into usable, chemical forms. There’s a lot of chemistry involved – positive and negative ions, chemical attractions and repulsions. The overall pH of the soil has a great impact on what nutrients can be released from the soil, and too much of one nutrient can make another one unavailable to the plant.

Soggy soils can hang onto nutrients as well. One way to deal with deficiencies in a quick and somewhat temporary manner is foliar spraying, in which the nutrients are sprayed on a plant’s leaves, bypassing the barriers your soil may impose.

Potassium 10-24 hours Calcium 1-2 days Magnesium 2-5 hours Sulfur 8 days Zinc 1-2 days Manganese 1-2 days Iron 10-20 days Molybdenum 10-20 days

Foliar fertilizing can achieve two purposes. It can amend a nutrient deficiency due to various conditions in the soil. It also can provide a boost of trace Greater efficiency elements and other growth chemicals that will enhance your feeding proA plant’s leaves contain small pores gram. called stomata. These openings allow the exchange of gases and water beNutrient mobility tween the air and the plant. They also will admit nutrients that are carried in The mobility of nutrients both in the a spray of water. In addition, the leaf soil and in the plant tissues varies. Nitissues, or epidermis, is permeable trogen, phosphorus, potassium, magand will also absorb liquids. nesium, sodium, and sulfur are mobile within the plant; water moves these Foliar spraying can be much more nutrients up through the plant and efficient than fertilizing through the into foliage and buds. Zinc and boron soil, but its effects are not as long last- have limited mobility while calcium, ing and there are no stored reserves iron, manganese, and molybdenum the plant can access when nutrients are considered non-mobile. are used up. Research has shown an efficiency rating of 8 to 20 times high- This lack of mobility, combined with er than soil fertilizer, but the amounts soil conditions such as pH and the of nutrients available to the plant are balance of nutrients, can cause a desmaller, therefore making foliar appli- ficiency of these nutrients in parts of cation more valuable as an addition to the plant. In particular, iron is very the fertilizing program rather than its sensitive to pH and other nutrients major delivery system. can bond with it, inhibiting its spread into the plant. Iron helps maintain the Foliar spraying will get the nutrients stores of chlorophyll that is necessary into the plant faster than soil appli- for photosynthesis in green leaves. A cation. A publication from Midwest deficiency shows as yellowing leaf tisLabs in Nebraska lists these rates for sue and dark green veins. Zinc defi50% absorption of nutrients: ciency is less common and also leads to interveinal chlorosis, as well as smallNitrogen (as urea) ½-2 hours er, stunted looking new leaves.

Phosphorus 5-10 days 2

Calcium deficiency is uncommon in roses, but lack of it can inhibit bud de-

nashville rose leaf, may 2014

velopment and weaken stem structure.

All of these deficiencies show up in the new leaves first because the plant cannot move its stores of these nonmobile nutrients from older leaves into new growth. Nitrogen is mobile, but easily leached from the soil. The plant uses quite a bit of nitrogen to produce foliage and stems – deficiency shows as an overall yellowing of the leaves and a weakening of stems.

Older leaves are first affected because nitrogen is mobile and can be moved into new growth when there is a lack of this nutrient.

Other nutrient deficiencies can show in the plant’s foliage as well, but they are harder to diagnose, and if foliar application causes an excess of them, toxicity can occur. Also, particularly with the mobile nutrients, too much of one can affect the availability of others. Because most home gardeners are not going to invest in a plant tissue analysis, the challenge of deciding which of these other nutrients is deficient and what to spray for this deficiency should not be taken lightly.

The most commonly used single nutrient sprays are iron and zinc. Because so many factors can inhibit the spread of iron throughout the plant, a foliar spray may be the best temporary fix for iron deficient yellowing leaves.

Exhibitors spray both iron and zinc to increase the foliage and flower color even when there is no sign of a deficiency. Specialty nurseries and internet resources offer various products that can be used for these sprays. It is not necessary to use the the expensive chelated products you use in the soil, but be careful of burning plants with sulfates in warm weather.

Organic sprays A very common use of foliar sprays and one that is most effective, (Cont’d on page 5)

Whistling Through the Graveyard

By Gene Meyer, Consulting Rosarian Many of you have heard me complain about some of my roses not producing new basal breaks. Well guess what?

Some of those same roses were winter damaged so badly I practically pruned them to the root ball. And now I have new basal breaks. So basically if you want new canes on a bush that doesn’t produce any, prune it to the ground and then it is do or die time.

I always put a cup of Epsom salts on all my roses to encourage those new basal breaks. Today April 18th I gave my roses their first drink of alfalfa tea.

I know they love it because they tell me so.

Last month I said I was excitedly expecting delivery the week of March 17th of my new roses for myself and the Brentwood Library. They did arrive and then I had to wait. Frost, frost, frost - all the way until the first week of April when I planted roses at the Brentwood Library. Most of the roses came from Chamblee’s Rose Nursery in Texas. The roses were bigger and

better than I expected for $8.95 each.

I wholeheartedly recommend them for anyone looking for Earth-Kind and OGRs. Another nameless company with new ownership seems to be having growing pains. My roses arrived three weeks late with half my order missing.

I planted them today and I now know why they were late, hardly any roots!

Hope they make it! Last year my order and the roses were fine.

My theory on Rogue Rosette is proving to be true. That sneaky dastardly devil only shows himself 25% of the time with the early spring growth. I’ve been checking Knockouts that I know are infected and only one out of four bushes is showing any suspect growth.

I expect that they will “rogue out” after the first flush.

The harsh winter has done us a big favor. The most recent issue of the ARS magazine had Mark Windham’s

research on Rogue Rosette which was almost exactly what was in our March Rose Leaf. Additionally, they stated infected roses are more susceptible to winter kill because canes have low starch and the roots have decreased carbohydrate storage. I can confirm this because I am seeing dead Rogue Rosette roses everywhere this spring.

Thus in many instances the infected roses I couldn’t convince the owners to replace, were killed this winter.

Yeah! I now know another reason why some people don’t replace infected roses. They were planning on moving soon. There are three homes that have infected roses that are for sale this spring. I’ll have to keep an eagle eye out for the home inspector when the home sells. It might be easier to leave a note on the door for them.

Rest assured I’ll be in full battle mode after the spring flush to eradicate Rogue Rosette from my neighborhood.

ARS Children’s Essay Contest • Why Roses Are the Symbol of Love, Friendship, Beauty and Peace • Why I Love Roses • Why My Parents or Grandparents Love Roses

essay. Contact Beth Smiley, beth@ ars-hq.org.

Mail entries to: American Rose Society • Children’s Essay Contest • P.O. Box 30000 • Shreveport, LA 71130.

• A fictional story about roses.

All children ages 12 and younger may take part in the contest. They may use their own rose-related theme or choose one of the following: • Why the Rose is America’s National Flower

Entries may be accompanied by a drawing or painting. Essays should be no more than 400 words. The deadline for submitting entries is June 1, 2014. Entries must be accompanied by a separate page containing the following information: child’s name, age, school grade, parent’s name, address and parent’s phone number or email address for notification of winners.

This information must be included on a separate sheet of paper, not on the nashville rose leaf, may 2014

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The May Rose Garden by: Sam Jones, Master Rosarian May can be a busy and rewarding time in your rose garden. Because nature, herself, is working so hard, clothing your bushes with abundant growth, clean leaves, vigorous stems, and buds popping out at the ends of almost all new canes, it is tempting to sit back and “leave the gardening to her.” After all the tiresome digging, planting, pruning, raking, uncovering, weeding, fertilizing, and watering in April, it looks like May is the month to “turn’er loose and let’er go.”

Don’t be fooled. Nature is doing a good job, but so must you! Otherwise you will be disappointed by the time the month is gone and the beetles begin arriving in June. In order to enjoy a beautiful, pleasurable rose garden, there is still much work to do in May. Now is the time to make plans, albeit much of what you do will be cooperating with nature. This is the beauty and joy of rose gardening in May. As much exciting growth is discovered in your garden every day, there are some tasks you still must diligently work at this month. The first is to continue regularly spraying your roses.

How hard can that be? You will need to spray two or three times this month at the most. The key is to spray your rose bushes in May whether it looks like they need it or not. Come June and July, you will find out why, when you notice that those new, clean green leaves of spring are looking not only dingy, and some are turning yellow or having black spots. By then, you will have a full blown case of “black spot” in your garden, which can be doubly discouraging during the hot, sticky summer months. It is even more tempting to blame nature, when you have little to admire from your favorite window.

The real culprit is not mother nature it is the gardener who failed to give attention during the rosy month of May. What, when and how should I spray?

The number one reason to spray is to rid your roses of the dreaded black spot fungus. You should spray at two-week 4

intervals, using an inexpensive one or two-gallon pump sprayer (available at local garden centers or online), spray your “clean” bushes with two substances that you can mix together: one for the leaf surface, and the other for penetrating the foliage itself. One is “topical” and the other is “systemic.”

When used together, or alternatively, at two-week intervals, during May, you will avoid a lot of disappointment come really hot, muggy summertime.

[Refer to the spray reference chart on the NRS website www.nashvillerosesociety.com] The spray reference gives a list of recommended products for both fungal treatment and chemicals that can be used to rid your roses of various pests.

If you have questions about what products to use contact any Consulting Rosarians (see list on page 7). Be sure to attend the May meeting where outstanding rosarians will answer your questions. You already know that water is a must for roses. However, you can also SPRAY your roses with water, not only to hydrate the foliage during dry spells, but you can also effectively water-spray away the most troublesome insects you might encounter during this month, as well as most of the summer. The two insects you are most likely to see in May are first, aphids—little green, sticky devils that almost cover the ends of your luscious new stems and buds. Secondly thrips, almost invisible varmints nesting in blooms that turn lighter-colored-rose petals brownish.

With an inexpensive, adjustable garden hose sprayer nozzle on a widefan or an angle setting, you can spray away those bothersome aphids. Once or twice in several days and they will virtually disappear. Thrips require something stronger, but don’t bother with them unless you really want only pristine white blooms.

If you do, then mist-spray only the buds(not the whole bush) before or soon after they open with an “insecticide” (Orthene is a good choice), and they will soon make themselves scarce. Be careful.

nashville rose leaf, may 2014

Many insects help you. Don’t try to kill them all — only a very few are bad ones.

If you have planted bushes near a sunny, brick wall—you may notice that your bottom leaves are looking gray and beginning to drop, in spite of your faithful antifungal applications.

You could have an infestation of spider mites (hard to see with the naked eye). But before purchasing expensive chemicals to eradicate these critters, I would suggest you turn your trusty water-hose nozzle on them, as well.

Repeated hard water-spraying from the bottom of the bush upward several times over a couple of weeks, and these babies won’t stick around. They hate water. Use it often and use it well.

What’s left for May? If you have cooperated well with nature’s flush and profusion of blooms toward the end of the month, let me entice you to cut some of the most attractive, as well as fragrant, blooms.

Don’t worry a lot about shape; just find the ones that are most appealing to you. Cut them, and if you want, share some with a friend and certainly with your spouse, but let me lure you into taking a small step you never thought you would. Consider taking some to a—Rose Show. Don’t let those capitalized two words intimidate you.

There is not a “Rosarian” alive that did not start out where you are. Yes, take some of your roses, the ones that look the best to you, to a rose show. The Bowling Green Rose Show is May 31 and the NRS Rose Show is June 14-15 at Cheekwood.

A good way to practice is to participate in the NRS Grand Prix in July.

Remember, everyone starts as a “novice.” You will be surprised at how many “old hands” will assist you. They have all been right where you are. I can say this, once you show roses the first time, you will do it again. It’s fun and you will be hooked. But it’s all about enjoying roses and helping others enjoy them, also.

Foliar Feeding Your Roses

by Carolyn Elgar (Cont’d from page 2)

which could burn delicate foliage.

according to research, is in the application of trace minerals and growth acids. Gardeners often use one of the following foliar sprays to give their beloved roses an extra boost of health and color.

Epsom salts: Epsom salts consists of magnesium sulfate (around 10 percent magnesium and 13 percent sulfur). Magnesium fortifies cell walls and improves uptake of other nutrients. As with iron, foliar application bypasses passage through the soil where magnesium can be trapped by mineral imbalance. In addition, it is easily leached from the soil and is sensitive to high or low soil pH. Extremely water soluble, 1 tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water is what most recipes recommend. This spray should be applied on a limited basis as magnesium can affect calcium or potassium absorption. Magnesium helps in the production of chlorophyll; a small, informal study by the National Gardening Association concluded that Epsom salts sprays produced more and greener foliage on roses.

Seaweed: Seaweed or kelp products contain small amounts of a large number of plant nutrients including nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, boron, and iron.

The combination of starches, carbohydrates, and sugars from the ocean with the biostimulating plant hormones in these products boost plant vitality and help reduce environmental stresses of drought, heat, and cold. Very low NPK numbers ensure that repeated application is safe. All plants benefit from this spray and it improves overall plant health.

Fish: Fish products are available as emulsion or fish meal. Fish byproducts are broken down into a liquid, most effectively by hydrolysis, which uses enzymes instead of heat in the process. The NPK numbers are low (5-1-1), but nitrogen is the major component. Some manufacturers may enrich their product with other nutrients or use a process to deodorize it.

Repeated application is not harmful.

Compost tea: Home composters can make a liquid tea from compost – there are various recipes, but basically compost is soaked in liquid for a time period and then strained to produce a tea that can be used as a spray or a drench. The end product varies, depending on the compost content.

Organic fertilizers: Most organic fertilizers, especially single nutrient ones, have instructions for foliar application included on the package.

Alfalfa, bat guano, feather meal, earth worm castings and other products can be made into a liquid spray, but follow the directions and pay attention to what is in the product. For example, bat guano is very high in nitrogen,

Correct application One challenge in using foliar sprays is their effectiveness is very dependent on proper application. These factors are essential for successful foliar feeding.

Environment: It is best to spray when temperatures are mild and humidity is high, usually early in the morning or in the early evening. A major drawback to foliar spraying is leaf scorch. The plants should be well watered and the leaves turgid. Don’t spray on a windy day.

solid particles in the liquid. A fine spray is best and it is important to wet the underside of the leaves because those tissues have lots of stomata. The longer it takes the solution to dry on the leaves, the more likely it is that the nutrient will be absorbed.

Additives: Water itself maintains a surface tension that works against absorption. Most manufacturers recommend using a surfactant to decrease that tension. In addition, an additive can modify the pH of the solution, which affects absorption. A pH of 4.55.5 has been found to be most effective in applying a spray product. Different companies have their own surfactant products: some of them are Indicate 5, Bonide Turbo Spreader Sticker, or Fertilone Hi Yield Spreader Sticker.

These additives can help the spray spread over the leaf, wetting it for a longer period of time, aiding in tissue penetration. They also help prevent leaf scorch.

Foliar spraying is a good remedy for deficiencies in plants caused by differing soil conditions that immobilize nutrients such as iron and as a quick fix for nutrients that are easily depleted such as nitrogen. Sprays of trace elements and growth acids are particularly useful for increasing the “brix” level in a plant, which refers to the amount of proteins, vitamins, minerals, and sugars in plant tissue.

These organic sprays of seaweed, fish, or compost also contain nitrogen and iron which may be a safer, but slower way to correct those deficiencies. But foliar feeding should be an addition to good soil nutrition. Healthy soil that provides a storage bank of nutrients and microbes is a better long term solution.

Method: It is essential that the product is well dissolved in water. One trick is to mix a small solution of the product with warm water until it is dissolved and then add it to the rest of the water in the sprayer. Keep the sprayer’s contents agitated, by pump- Editor’s Note: This article originally aping or shaking. If you have chlorinated peared in the April 2014 issue of the “Orwater, allow the water you are going ange County Rose Gazette,” newsletter to use to sit in an open container for of the Orange County (CA) Rose Society, a day so that the chlorine dissipates. Carolyn Elgar, editor.

It is a good idea to have a sprayer that is only used for foliar feeding. Don’t combine products if it will result in nashville rose leaf, may 2014 5

Talking With Ted......The Winter That Lingered Too Long

by Ted Mills, Master Rosarian

Rose Doc has been growing roses since 1978. He has never experienced a winter that has damaged his roses as much as the period just passed. But like the sign in a local restaurant – there is no point in whining about the menu. Double the energy you exert and help the rose bushes survive this sustained sub-freezing arctic air. In past issues of BASAL BREAKS, Rose Doc has proclaimed the ability of rose bushes to survive most attacks dealt them.

In reviewing the damage, be sure it is bad enough to remove and substitute a new plant. In Rose Doc’s own garden there are bushes that are as the late Jerry Clower said – “graveyard dead.” Canes are black all the way down, including the bud union.

That is the kiss of death. However, if the bud union shows no evidence of terminal damage, give it an extra amount of attention and new shoots will originate at the critical point. The roots will supply nourishment to the union area and it is highly likely that new canes will form. A good dose of nitrogen loaded fertilizer will be a great help to the bush. Trying to increase basal breaks is sometimes a formidable task. Epsom salts has been used with success, but the application of nitrogen-filled fertilizer proves to be best.

6

Inspect the garden frequently and be sure that basal breaks are present. Remember the bushes have gone through agony with the deep freeze. Treat them as you would want to provide health care to a bed-ridden patient. The reward is a beautiful array of roses when midMay arrives. One may ask why the increased damage. Rose Doc can well remember when his valued tree roses (22 in number) suffered winter damage that was fatal. It so happened that the cold arctic air never let up for a long period of time – one week or more. The fact that the frigid condition was sustained with no let up spelled doom. Rose Doc’s good departed friend, Lester Smith, experienced the same damage. It was a trying time but like the sign in the restaurant says – no use whining. The season just passed was dealt the same sustaining freeze. It is true that roses can endure subfreezing weather as long as it is not sustained too long.

This week the rose bushes that met death will be replaced with new bushes. Careful selection will be the planned action. Pretty pictures in rose magazines often highlight bummers. Seek advice from wise Consulting Rosarians before purchases are made. Refer to the handbook of selecting roses as provided by ARS staff members. Select proven specimens and commence planting. Be sure that the location of the dead rose bush is cleaned and cleared of possible harmful spores.

Above all, do not allow this extremely cold winter to cause you to leave the hobby. Roses are very rewarding to the observing public.

Show your mettle by doubling your effort to grow award-winning roses.

Don’t surrender to Jack Frost from a hobby that spreads cheer like no other flower. If discouraged, contact a Consulting Rosarian who is truly dedicated to rose growing.

They will give you friendly instruc-

nashville rose leaf, may 2014

tion that will destroy any tendency to resign from growing God’s most beautiful flower.

Since our recent cold month has brought death to some of our prized rose plants, it would be advisable to increase insulation this coming winter. Apply a deep pile of mulch and mushroom compost around the base of the bushes. Don’t be too sparingly in this operation. It would be well to inspect the rose beds often during our cold months. Do this as insurance against severely cold weather’s possible damage. We as dedicated rosarians are not entirely against cold weather. We know that our insect colonies will be decimated somewhat when severely frigid conditions prevail. However, let us be diligent in observing our rose bushes during predicted temperature drops. Pile on the insulation and keep the precious bushes in a warm rose bed. These beautiful bushes need protection that only a dedicated rosarian can provide.

Yes, the winter of 2014 outdid itself in a bad way. Its fury caused most of the USA real problems. Rosarians, even in the south, felt the pains of freezing weather. Being cold for a short time is normal and will not destroy bud unions. However, when the sub-freezing visits our garden and lingers too long bud unions suffer damage and often death. Be on the alert and come to their rescue. These rescued plants will repay greatly when the bloom season arrives.

Reprinted from Spring 2014 issue of Basal Breaks, newsletter of the TriState Rose Society, Chattanooga, TN. Jeff Garret, editor.

A Rose Lover’s Calendar

NRS, Tenarky, & ARS Coming Events MAY 7

NRS Meeting at Cheekwood 6:30 PM Refreshments 7:00 PM - Main Program - Sustainable Rose Care

31

Bowling Green Rose Society Rose Show Contact: mhext@outlook.com or visit www.bowlinggreenrosesociety.org

TBD

Nashville Rose Leaf is printed by: The Print Authority, Brentwood, Tennessee

Nashville Rose Leaf

The Nashville Rose Leaf is published eleven times annually by the Nashville Rose Society, Nashville, TN Editors: Jim & Starla Harding, Sam Jones & Leann Barron Editorial Advisory Committee: Marty Reich

Laura Wise 911Wildlife

37127-6609 615-605-5519

ARS Consulting Rosarians

millieg713@yahoo.com

Members!

Murfreesboro, TN

14-15 NRS Spring Rose Show at Cheekwood - For more information, con

tact Sam and Nancy Jones – Co-Chairs at gsamj@bellsouth.net; or nancypj@bellsouth.net

Nashville Rose Society is a 501c-3 organization and all contributions to the society are tax-deductible. Contributions may be made as memorials or to honor some person, group or occasion. Checks for contributions should be made payable to Nashville Rose Society and mailed to: MILLIE DOLINGER 59 Vaughn’s Gap Rd. Nashville, TN 37205 (615)352-3927

New

1711 Dilton Mankin Rd.

JUNE

NRS Meeting - Picnic

Contributions

Welcome

Nashville Rose Society 2011 Officers President Vice-Pres Gene Meyer........(615) 373-0303

South Nashville Leann Barron Marty Reich*

(615) 269-0240 (615) 833-0791

West Nashville Tom Beath (615) 481.3589 Keith Garman (615) 352-6219 Sam* & Nancy Jones (615) 646-4138 Brentwood Area Cecil* Ward Gene Meyer

(615)373-2245 (615) 373-0303

Cor. S’ty Millie Dolinger.....(901) 628-7137

Franklin Area Anne Owen* (615) 794-0138 Logan* & Joan Shillinglaw(615) 790-7346 Robbie*&Marsha Tucker(615) 595-9187

Nashville Rose Society Membership

Hendersonville Area Ron Daniels (615) 330-7083 Jack Wedekind (615) 824-8696

Treasurer Gary Spencer......(615) 662-3819 Rec. S’ty Hayes Gibson .......(615) 794-1708

We are a non-profit organization serving the middle Tennessee area to educate persons on growing and exhibiting roses. Membership is open to everyone who supports the objectives of the organization. Annual dues of $20.00 per household include a subscription to The Nashville Rose Leaf, the official newsletter of the society. To join, send a check payable to Nashville Rose Society to: Marty Reich, 5020 Dovecote Dr., Nashville, TN 37220-1614 Phone: (615) 833-0791; E-mail: marty615@bellsouth.net

Disclaimer: While the advice and information in this newsletter is believed to be true and accurate at the time of publication, neither the authors nor the editor(s) accept any legal responsibility for any errors or omissions that may have been made.

The Nashville Rose Society makes no warranty, expressed or implied with respect to the material contained herein.

Murfreesboro Area Dillard & Diane Lester(615) 896-0203 Columbia Area Lyle Worsham*

(931) 388-4547

Lebanon-Watertown Area Jeff Harvey (615) 268-7089 Jennifer Harvey (615) 268-7032 Denise Thorne (615) 237-9757 Duck River-Centerville Area Larry* & Connie Baird(931) 729-5259 Manchester Area Cindy Worch

(931) 723-2142

*Indicates ARS Master Rosarian

nashville rose leaf, may 2014

7

5020 Dovecote Drive Nashville, TN 37220-1614

NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION U.S. POSTAGE PAID BRENTWOOD, TN PERMIT NO. 162

Address Service Requested

www.nashvillerosesociety.com

The Longest Walk by: Starla Harding Ordinarily, when my pruners become lodged in a rose cane, it has never been cause for concern. I simply shout out a quick “honey help” and in no time Jim will answer the cry rescuing me as well as my pruners. I have always found the ensuing lecture to be mild, given Jim’s carefree countenance.

What’s more, he often forgets how many times he has warned me of the potential harm this habit poses for both pruner and rose bush.

Recently, however, I found myself uncovering winter protection and pruning solo when Jim was out of town. At first, I approached the task with a positive attitude by assuring myself that all those black canes of death would later reveal mini forests of basal breaks beneath the winter protection. (Why do I hear every one of you snickering?). Two rose bushes later, I let out a heavy sigh…. or at least that’s what I’m going to call it here because nobody was there but me. Two more rose bushes later, I found myself dislodging my pruners by myself for the third time and wondering how Jim keeps his cool with me because I am about to lose my temper with myself! Why do I do this? I love my pruners almost as much as I love the little belt-clip holster Jim bought me in which to contain them. I suppose this bad habit is simply a form of denial.

I surveyed the war zone that was once my rose garden and “heaved another sigh”. The time had come, folks. I hung my head in defeat and embarked upon that long painful walk that every rose grower has come to dread, the one where the green thumb walks that green mile in search of loppers. I’ve never been a fan of the lopper myself, and for many reasons. First of all, loppers are unforgiving. Make a mistake with a lopper and nine times out of ten you are either headed to the nursery for a replacement plant or the emergency room for a replacement limb.

Loppers have also been the death instrument for every rose bush I tried to nurture back from rose rosette disease. My greatest disdain for loppers, however, lies in their size. Sure, they make pruners look like they belong in a Barbie house but it is because of their size that they lack portability. I like to travel light in the garden. A pair of rose gloves, a little pruner in a holster and I’m off to the races. You can’t very well pack a set of loppers into a holster and saunter around the garden seamlessly without pulling off a bad imitation of Festus from the old western series “Gunsmoke.”

As I began to accept the reality of lopper lugging as well as the slim chance of “white pith sightings” it became necessary for me to return to the tool shed….. this time for the shovel. I bit my lip as I contemplated the necessity of a dump truck for hauling dead rose debris. Old man winter must have had a score to settle last year and I don’t know about the rest of you, but it seems he reserved his worst punishment for my rose bushes. In years past, I have taken great joy in referring to Jim as “Edward Scissorshands” after having witnessed the aftermath of his spring

pruning.

This year,however, as my eyes swept across the nubs that were once rose canes, I realized that my own handiwork was more reminiscent of the movie “Sweeney Todd, The Demon Barber of Fleet Street.”

With every cut, I kept promising my rose bushes “this hurts me worse than it hurts you.” I can only hope that time does, indeed, heal all wounds but this year we will have to wait longer than ever to find out since I am certain our roses bushes will not see nary a bloom until June, at best. By then, maybe loppers and shovels will be locked back in their dark abodes next to the memory of a long, destructive winter!

ARS Membership Every rosarian should be a member of the American Rose Society. The benefits far outweigh any costs. A full membership is only $49 a year. A four month trial membership is $10 (or $5 for current NRS members). And last but not least the ARS also offers a free e-membership.

So no matter what your budget, there is no excuse for not getting plugged into the ARS. To sign up you may complete the online form at www.ars.org or call toll free at 1-800-637-6534.