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PRESS PACK AW15
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UNIVERSITY OF HUDDERSFIELD
School of Art, Design and Architecture Department of Design
Elision Press pack
Yulia Aleksandrova
A Major Project submitted in partial fulfilment of the requirements for BA (Hons) Fashion, Communication and Promotion.
Module THD1101 Fashion Communication Promotion Major Project
The candidate confirms that the work submitted is their own and that appropriate credit has been given where reference has been made to the work of others. The University of Huddersfield School of Art & Design Department of Design Huddersfield West Yorkshire ENGLAND
16.05.2014
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CONTENTS Page 4 THE ART OF MADE-TO-MEASURE A PERSONAL WAY TO A PERFECT FIT Page 6 Q&A WITH ELISION’S FOUNDER YULIA ALEKSANDROVA Page 6 Q&A WITH ELISION’S FOUNDER YULIA ALEKSANDROVA Page 12 A NEW GENERATION OF FEMALE ENTREPRENEURS IS SHAPING THE FUTURE OF SHOPPING
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Page 15 VITAL VOICES & ELISION Page 17 YOU CAN HAVE ANY COLOUR AS LONG AS IT’S BLACK Page 20 DRESSING FIRST CLASS Page 22 A GALLERY FOR ARTISAN GARMENTS Page 24 IN PRAISE OF THE BESPOKE WEBSITE Page 26 REFERENCES
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THE ART OF MADE-TO-MEASURE A PERSONAL WAY TO A PERFECT FIT
In a homogenised world where high fashion collections are available to order as their runway shows are being streamed live, and where every major city features the same expensive designer stores, bespoke offers the antithesis of the hype that is traditionally associated with luxury brands. Customisation and made-to-measure services are on the increase in the fashion market, with the major launch of a new womenswear brand Elision. Elision takes inspiration from the brand’s elegantly understated tagline “a madeto-measure indulgence”, and gives customers the chance to customise their 20-piece collection by going in for a fitting, choosing the right silhouette, distinct material and colour. “In a world where everything is accessible, a truly personalised garment is very difficut to find,” explains Elision founder Yulia Aleksandrova, whose aesthetic at the brand is very much about individuality and personal taste. Like many women who don’t conform to the fashion industry’s ideal in terms of height and body shape, Yulia 4
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had become disheartened shopping ‘off the rail’. “A made-tomeasure garment places customers at the centre – their desires are handmade for them. There is something about the process of being measured, choosing the details such as the silhouette, the fabric, going for a fitting, the impeccable finishing... you gain a level of craftsmanship and quality, from skilled workers, that is simply not possible in a ready-to-wear garment.” It re-enforces the idea – and it’s a significant shift in the market – that those shoppers who may have once traded their musthave items with the arrival of each season’s collections are now looking for garments that stands the test of time; that they will not tire of or see thousands wearing the same thing down the street in front of them. If the must-haves were a symbol of status, the perfect fit is even more so, as it implies that one is above the whims of relentless trend cycles. “Customers are looking for exclusivity, quality, creativity and timelessness,” says Hari Seldon, chief tailor at Elision. He is able to deal with even the most unusual requests. “At first, we have an conversation to understand the expectations of the customer,” continues Seldon. “Then, from personal requirements, we take in the client’s measurements and help them choose the perfect fabric, colour, and fit. It is a real exchange because a special order is a unique item marked with the personality of the customer.” Elision’s sense of individuality and uniqueness is perhaps what has been missing from a homogeneous high street, understanding the customer-centred philosophy of luxury brands and taking it one step further.
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For further information, samples or high-res images, please contact Yulia at press@elision.co.uk
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Q&A WITH ELISION’S FOUNDER YULIA ALEKSANDROVA What made you decide to set up your own brand? Like many women who don’t conform to the fashion industry’s ideal in terms of height and body shape, it was extremely hard to find what I was looking for on the fashion high street; I’m short and I’ve often had issues with the length of my trousers and sleeves, and things just didn’t sit right because they are made to a standard cut, and no woman is the same shape. I also felt that a lot of the brands were following the same trends, cuts and styles and therefore I saw an opportunity to be different... You only have to look at the best-dressed men to see that bespoke is the way to go: it is one area where we can learn from the boys. How is Elision different from other brands? It’s different mainly in 2 ways: it’s a made-to-measure collection offering customers an exclusive bespoke experience combined with elegant and comfortable silhouettes, influenced by the modern woman and her lifestyle. 7
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The main challenge was to bring something new to the table as the womenswear market was already hugely saturated... So I decided to go for the streamlined, elegant and classic style I like and give the collection a contemporary twist - the idea is that we’re establishing certain signatures and updating them. Customers are looking for exclusivity, quality, creativity and timelessness and that sense of individuality is perhaps what has been missing from the homogeneous high street. We help our customers to go in the right direction that suited to their style and personality. We only use fine, sumptuous materials to emphasise female elegance and pay special attention to details and handcrafted quality. The concept itself is simple: we create 2 collections a year and our clients have two options of purchasing it: we welcome them in our Belgravia showroom where they will get fitted, try on a sample, and find the right fabric. Alternatively, for customers outside of the city, we send one of our skilled Travelling Tailors straight to their house to measure them and show them some our fabric samples. There is something about the process of being measured, choosing the details such as the right shoulder line, the lapel, the silhouette, going for a fitting, the impeccable finishing... you gain a level of craftsmanship and quality, from skilled workers, that is simply not possible in a ready-to-wear garment.
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PRESS INFORMATION What was the process of setting up your brand? I have always wanted to set up my own company. I have worked on different projects before Elision but this was the one I was sure would go places. I’ve always had a strong interest in the fashion industry and bespoke - it runs in the family; I still remember the wonderful time spent at my grandmother’s atelier. I set up the showroom in 2015. And as it was brand new, I wanted to control the quality of each garment. So the first step was to find the right people: from the tailors to the designer to the pattern maker to the stylists. Step by step, we started to attract clients by word of mouth before even working with a PR company to help get the brand name out there.
Why did you choose London as your showroom location?
London is the perfect place to launch Elision as there is a real and great interest for made-to-measure clothing that delivers so much more than what you get from even the most expensive factory-produced garment. London women come from various backgrounds but they all ooze style and dress well. What was your background before setting up Elision? My background is in Fashion Promotion with a degree at University of Huddersfield. I have worked in marketing for so many companies in London, which gave me the
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PRESS INFORMATION opportunity to experience working on strategies to run a creative business. What is your role in the designing process? My position is the Artistic Director during the creative process of our collection. I keep an eye on fashion trends and listen to our clients’ needs... The main outlines are then given to our designer who develops sketches for me, which gives me the opportunity to review the collection, design by design, and follow the process from design, to pattern, to finished samples with the help from my team of talented pattern and dress makers. Did you have knowledge of design and sewing before? My Bulgarian grandmother was a very skilled seamstress so she created beautiful dresses for me when I was younger. I used to spend hours and hours playing around in her atelier. She gave me my very first sewing machine that I used to design dolls’ dresses and later on, I inherited her own along with her passion for bespoke. Eventually I mainly learnt as I went along. Surrounding yourself with inspirational people, having common sense and a taste of style are also essential. Personal Information: Yulia was born on the west coast of Bulgaria in Yambol (famous for textile and shoe industries). She moved to the UK when she was accepted in the award-winning University of Huddersfield where she graduated with honours in 2014. She is currently 23 and lives with her boyfriend and two cats in West London.
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For further information, samples or high-res images, please contact Yulia at press@elision.co.uk
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A NEW GENERATION OF FEMALE ENTREPRENEURS IS SHAPING THE FUTURE OF SHOPPING There was always a good chance Yulia Aleksandrova would become an entrepreneur, and one ensconced in the fashion world at that. The fourth generation of entrepreneur in her family, Aleksandrova grew up around fashion and business. And despite her modesty protesting that she tends to wear the same thing every day, the Huddersfield fashion promotion graduate looks the part – dressed in a cream Equipment shirt over a 50s skirt – and she has an exhaustive knowledge of designer brands and retailers. After watching her contemporaries join banks and law firms, Aleksandrova, 23, decided she wanted more autonomy, she says with confidence. “I wanted to be where I could determine my own pace. I’ve always loved fashion; it was something my mother and I did together – vintage shopping and choosing clothes for each other online.” Yulia’s is a simple idea: a bespoke womenswear brand with a customisable collection each season. You can purchase it by either visiting the showroom in London, or book an appointment with one of the brand’s Travelling 12
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Tailor who will visit you in the comfort of your home. Once your profile and measurements are detailed, the next purchase can even be entirely internet-driven. With her small team of developers, tailors and stylists, Elision was up and running by July this year. She came up with the idea for her brand, Elision, two years ago while she was on a train with her mother. “I thought, ‘What’s the thing that stops me buying off-the-peg clothes?” The answer, she says, was being often disappointed with the fit and sizing (she also points out that up to 40 per cent of fashion sale returns are due to size problems). “There is a reason why bespoke feels like the ultimate personal luxury – from the process of being measured to choosing the details such as the fabric, silhouette and the right length to the impeccable finish. With a ready-to-wear garment, consumers are conforming to a pre-determined size meant to fit as many people as possible. No two women are the same shape and many others are side-lined by mainstream designer fashion, where sizes often stop at a size 14.” Aleksandrova is part of a new wave of entrepreneurs – some of them very young, and many of them women – who are pushing innovation in fashion, not only changing the way we shop, but how trends are born and spread. Crucially, this new generation loves and understands fashion, and coming out of the first wave of e-commerce sites such as Asos, Net-a-Porter and Yoox, these women are focusing on more niche areas. Back at her office, Aleksandrova shows no sign of flagging as she settles in for another night at her screen. “Being part of an industry that is only beginning to define itself is amazing,” says Yulia, “and I hope we can have a part in shaping it.”
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For further information, samples or high-res images, please contact Yulia at press@elision.co.uk
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VITAL VOICES
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ELISION Elision has teamed up with the Vital Voices foundation to draw attention to and aid female empowerment. Their ultimate dream is to help give the tools and resources to women worldwide to be successful on their own. For each beautiful garment that Elision makes, there is an equally beautiful change happening somewhere else in the world. It started with an idea. A simple act in response to a call for help. It started by listening because everyone has a voice and we all deserve dignity. Because women are willing and capable. It’s about investing in a whole person because people are worth it. Because everyone has a dream about their future. The Vital Choices foundation strives to identify, invest in and bring visibility to extraordinary women around the world by unleashing their leadership potential to transform lives and accelerate peace and prosperity in their communities.Their experts have trained over 14,000 emerging women leaders from over 144 countries in Africa, Asia, Eurasia, Latin America and the Caribbean, and the Middle East since 1997. These women have returned home to train and mentor more than 500,000 additional women and girls in their communities. 15
PRESS INFORMATION A percentage of the profit for each Elision garment goes directly to Vital Voices. Added to this, for each purchase of the brand’s specially designed Ava scarf, made directly through them, 70% of the proceeds go to the Vital Voices foundation. The scarves are produced by women in Delhi employed by Vital Voices with fabrics outsourced from local mills where the production process is completely transparent and ethical. This vibrant wool and silk blend scarf is an outfit maker with the power to change lives. As a young business Elision is at the start of a challenging journey, driven by its founder’s passions for positive social change and designing beautiful garments. “When I first heard about the Vital Voices foundation and its mission, I knew I had found an organisation that believes in what Elision does: that women worldwide should be given the tools and resources they need to be successful on their own.” says Elision’s founder Yulia Aleksandrova. “Our ultimate dream is to empower every woman on this earth to be the best she can be.” The brand is part of a growing shift towards social impact ventures and the creation of products, which not only deliver the consumer exceptional experience and quality, but also contribute to a positive change in the world.
SCARF DETAILS RRP £150 Blue, mint and beige Made of 45% silk and 55% wool Made in India Dimensions: 27.6 inches/70cm x 78.7 inches/200cm
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For further information, samples or high-res images, please contact Yulia at press@elision.co.uk
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YOU CAN HAVE ANY COLOUR AS LONG AS IT ’S BLACK
If in doubt, there’s only one way to turn - to the little black dress. Little black dresses are a fashion classic, an old faithful that will run and run. The pinnacle of elegance in any woman’s wardrobe is the little black dress, the power of which suggests dash and sophistication. The very term “little black dress,” was established in 1926, in an American Vogue illustration of Gabrielle Chanel’s first black “Ford.” It has since become a symbol of cosmopolitan opulence, yet it is no longer a uniform of convention and propriety. The little black dress club has opened its doors wide, as vast as the endless possibility, to allow for individual choices and interpretation. The idea has never been out of fashion, quickly becoming a staple of every sophisticated woman’s wardrobe. The leading actresses of Hollywood’s film noir of the 1940s wore them to signify their independence. The French chanteuse Edith Piaf wore a plain black dress so that concert-goers would not be distracted from her voice. In 1961, Audrey Hepburn boosted its popularity in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, her Givenchy dress so simply tailored that it quickly became the ultimate little black
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CLARA dress £850
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dress. Behind the whole concept lies the notion of the independent woman who knows her own mind and the same can still be said today. Even abbreviating the name into LBD gives it a spirited punch. And of course, we all have one... It’s perhaps within arm’s reach at all times. It’s the one garment you slip on when your best friend texts you at 7 p.m. and tells you to be ready in an hour. It’s also the same one that will take you from a morning meeting with your boss to an evening dinner with your loved one. But, if the hem is starting to fray or the colour is beginning to fade on the hardest working item in your wardrobe, Elision is ready to stage an intervention. Elision is a newly launched womenswear brand that offers an elegant made-to-measure collection made with only the most sumptuous fabrics. By booking an appointment in their London showroom or with one of their Travelling Tailors, you will take part in an exclusive experience of being measured and guided by the brand’s expert tailors and stylists. All designs are customisable, and of course, available in black and fully equipped to fit your LBD personality and provide you with plenty of wardrobe mileage – and if memory serves us right, we’ll need it.
For further information, samples or high-res images, please contact Yulia at press@elision.co.uk
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DRESSING FIRST CLASS The Bond villain Henry Gupta called it his “law of convenient anomalies”: if it looks too good to be true, it probably is. A custom dress for less than £1000? Sounds a lot like a convenient anomaly, but that’s precisely what newly launched made-to-measure womenswear brand Elision is selling. And the London based brand now goes international with unique temporary showrooms set up in first class lounges across 5 cities worldwide: Dubai, Seoul, Moscow, New York and Shanghai from September
7th to October 11th 2015. The luxurious experience is on a par with the one you would receive in their London showroom, customers will be matched with tailors and stylists who take measurements and lead them through a variety of fabrics, elegant cuts and silhouettes to find the perfect style from the brand’s Autumn Winter collection. The “The truth is that bespoke womenswear has not been easily accessible,” says Elision’s founder Yulia Aleksandrova. “You only need to look at the best dressed men to see that bespoke is the way to go. There is something about the process of being measured, choosing the details such as the right shoulder line, the lapel, the silhouette, the impeccable finishing. You gain a level of artistry and quality from expert tailors that is simply not possible in a ready-to-wear garment.” Purchase or no, customers
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can leave the first class showroom with an account on Elision’s website. After that, they can buy a whole wardrobe with just a few clicks on any device: desktop, smartphone or tablet. Because it’s so difficult to appraise a bespoke dress or coat without touching its fabric, the temporary showroom is key to introduce the brand and its craftsmanship to international markets. It needs to be said though, that all of Elision’s fabrics are only the best quality, specially sourced for each garment – from Italian Reda wool for coats to Sophie Hallette French lace adorned blouses. It’s not high street prices but is instead on a par with many of the designer items hanging elsewhere in stores. The Autumn Winter collection features 20 pieces defined by feminine cuts and strong silhouettes. Elision’s pared-down design aesthetic suits women who no longer want to be doing with whimsical trends, but want to emphasise on creating a hard-working, sophisticated wardrobe. There is so much on offer in the world of high fashion that consumers can often feel inundated. With a ready-to-wear garment, consumers are conforming to a pre-determined size meant to fit as many people as possible. Since no two women are the same shape and many others are side-lined by mainstream designer fashion, where sizes often stop at a size 14, bespoke can offer a product that delivers much more than even the most expensive factory-produced garment. Dates: Moscow - 07.10.2015 Dubai - 14.10.2015 Seul - 21.10.2015
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Shanghai - 28.10.2015 New York - 05.11.2015
For further information, samples or high-res images, please contact Yulia at press@elision.co.uk
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A GALLERY FOR ARTISAN GARMENTS The artistic and scientific innovations from the studio of Raëd Abillama Architects emerge in their latest project – designing a showroom for a newly launched madeto-measure womenswear brand Elision in Belgravia, London. The sizable and minimal in décor showroom reveal that walnut and brass are highly versatile 21st century materials. Juxtaposed with an abundance of white space, the Elision showroom looks like more of a gallery for artisan garments than a conventional-looking fashion space. Situated in the heart of London in a village-like ambience, the showroom is amongst more than 300 niche boutiques and businesses and yet its warm composition of the brand’s signature colours and mature, elegant and authentic aesthetics make the space stand out. The showroom is modern, open and simple, with semi transparency onto the breathtaking street architecture. Raëd Abillama’s aim was to capture the desires of modern luxury consumers who seek experiences, cultural relationships, and emotional stimuli when shopping. Understanding the nuances that draw the London consumer into stores helped the collective create a sense of authenticity and originality, whilst conveying the Elision personality and values of quality, craftsmanship and exclusivity. 22
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Quality trumps quantity. Products are displayed in a sea of space, and visual merchandising is minimal and powerful. Garments hang from an airy system of angular rails that leaves the floor of the space free of clutter. Sweeping lines and a monochrome décor provide a striking backdrop for the premium fabrics, with the interior becoming a sculpture in its own right. Walnut and custom finished brass elements warm the lighter hues of the concrete and acrylic resin. Mirrored surfaces visually expand the place and further reflect and filter the light. Walnut used in the front section of the showroom runs from the high ceiling over walls and floors to form a seamless surface interrupted only by white alcoves with rails for hanging clothes. Modern, newly designed furniture juxtaposed with several antique showpieces adds a touch of finesse that stresses the craftsmanship of the brand. “With every capital city features the same glass-fronted, polished temples to expensive designer brands, this is the antithesis of the hype surrounding what we traditionally know as luxury labels,” explains chief architect Raëd Abillama. Contrasting composition of chic, elegant materials and finishes – matte versus glossy, light versus dark – are employed to engage and please the discerning eye. Raëd Abillama Architects have designed the showroom to be similar to a journey, leading customers down an attractive and intriguing path. The architect collective began work on the project around two years ago, bringing the original concept of timelessness and authenticity to life in July 2015.
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For further information or high-res images, please contact Yulia at press@elision.co.uk
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IN PRAISE OF THE BESP OKE WEB SITE
Newly launched womenswear made-to-measure brand Elision introduces its elegant and interactive digital space – elision.co.uk. The overall look of the website is designed to be premium, visually appealing with minimal aesthetics, and easy to use navigational system that guides the user every step of the way. Bold simplistic images and clever copywriting are evident throughout the web pages of Elision, creating a fluid browsing experience for each visitor. 24
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The site has been designed to reinforce and complement the experience a customer would receive in-store, and encompasses Elision’s values of quality, content and exclusivity. Everything from booking an appointment in the brand’s London showroom to reading clever interviews in the blog section has been created to work effortlessly as a cohesive and integrated platform for the Elision brand. “Our team has worked very hard over the past few months to make the Elision website match the personality of the brand,” says Yulia Aleksandrova, founder of Elision. “We feel our website provides information about us, our products and processes in an easy and casual manner, and we hope our visitors enjoy the pages as much as we do.” The colour scheme consists of an abundance of minimalist white spaces and subtle use of one of the brand’s colours, the blush pink Pantone shade of 14-1513, that stands out on its own but also mixes perfectly with key neutrals and darks. The refines neutrals used throughout the pages blend seamlessly with the rest of the content. The main pages of the site always feature the brand logo on top, with easy to navigate subsection hyperlinks below. Links to social media channels can be found at the bottom of any page, making it easy for visitors to access and communicate with the brand on multiple channels. Elision places a strong emphasis on its core values and philosophies and the brand has perfectly achieved translating them onto its digital space. Exclusivity, quality, and content are clearly communicated through each section of the site, creating a coherent identity that is recognisable both on and offline. To discover the Elision site, please visit elision.co.uk 25
For further information or high-res images, please contact Yulia at press@elision.co.uk
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REFERENCES
Images: Page 14 Vital Voices Foundation (2012). Vital Voices logo [image] Retrieved from http://www.prweb.com Leif (2014). Heart Storm Wool-Silk Scarf [image] Retrieved from http://www.leifshop.com Page 24 Graphic Burger (2014). Apple Devices MockUp [image] Retrieved from http://graphicburger.com
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www.elision.co.uk
Join us on:
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www.elision.co.uk
For further information, samples or high res images, please contact Yulia at: press@elision.co.uk t: 020 3442 3998
ELISION London Limited 42 York Street London SW1 3BN +44(0)20 3353 3442 28