SE Navigator 2015 by Juneau Empire

THE LOCALS GUIDE TO SOUTHEAST ALASKA

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PUBLICATION OF CAPITAL CITY WEEKLY

2015

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WELCOME

A brown bear seeks shelter from the rain in the branches of a tree next to the viewing deck July 25, 2014 at Anan Wildlife Observatory near Wrangell.

James Brooks | Capital City Weekly

elcome to Southeast Alaska. Even if you’ve lived here for decades, you haven’t seen it all. It’s time to get out and see what you’ve missed. There are a lot of tourism guides out there. Most are for casual cruise ship tourists, people who stop in for a few hours so they can say they’ve visited Alaska. This isn’t one of those guides. This guide is designed to be for people who want to go the extra miles, who want to travel by land, sea and air to places they haven’t visited before. Anytime you go somewhere new, you need a navigator to help you get there. That’s what this guide is for.

It used to be called the Southeast Harbor Guide, and we’ve kept many of the elements that made the harbor guide great. For most popular boat destinations, we’ve added simple information on the price of moorage, what facilities are available and other helpful tips. We’ve also added new things for people who travel by air. Here, you’ll find the best festivals and events each community has to offer. Whether you’re traveling for the fishing, for the parties, or simply to see something new, you’ll need a navigator along the way. Have a great trip. — James Brooks, Capital City Weekly

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

DESTINATIONS

BU M TI E

Angoon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Coffman Cove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Craig. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Edna Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Elfin Cove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Gustavus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Haines. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Hoonah. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Hydaburg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Hyder. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Juneau. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Kake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Ketchikan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Metlakatla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Pelican . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Petersburg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Sitka. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Skagway. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Tenakee Springs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Thorne Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Whale Pass. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Wrangell. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Yakutat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Business Directory. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Transportation Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

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Cover art: “Road to Valhalla” Frank Lynn Pierce

Publisher: Rustan Burton Director of Audience: Abby Lowell Managing Editor: James Brooks Graphic Design: Matthew Wilkinson, Rachel Ramsey Marketing and Advertising: Romona Wigg, Kathryn Nickerson, Vincent Lew, Hadassah Nelson, Sean Maidy

Capital City Weekly 3100 Channel Drive • Juneau, AK, 99801 (907) 789-4144 2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

Whitehorse Yakutat

Skagway Haines

Gustavus Juneau Elfin Cove Pelican

Hoonah Tenakee Springs Angoon Sitka

Kake Petersburg Wrangell Point Baker

Klawock

Coffman Cove Thorne Bay Craig

SOUTHEAST ALASKA

Ketchikan Metlakatla

ANGOON

ifty-five miles southwest of Juneau is Angoon, the emerald of Admiralty Island. Located at the mouth of Mitchell Bay on the west side of Admiralty, Angoon has a population of about 440 people but is best-known for the population of its wildlife. Admiralty Island hosts an estimated 1,500 to 1,700 brown bears (according to Alaska Department of Fish and Game estimates), a concentration grater than any other in the world. For that reason, Admiralty Island is known as “Kootznoowoo” in Tlingit, meaning “Fortress of the Bear.” Admiralty Island also boasts one of the world’s most concentrated populations of bald eagles and ample amounts of other wildlife. For that reason, more than 90 percent of the island is designated wilderness included in Admiralty Island National Monument. Angoon takes advantage of this natural 6

HARBOR INFORMATION Rates: Boats 20 feet or less, $15/day; 20-24 feet, $18/day; 24-36 feet, $27/ day; 48 feet and up, $36. Utilities: Water and power are free for paying transient boats. No sewer pump-outs. Fuel: Fuel is available at a dock next to the harbor. Services: One outhouse is available at the harbor, but no sewage pump-out. No showers, laundromat or Internet service at harbor.

wealth by serving as the setting-off point for bear-viewing expeditions to Pack Creek, where dozens of bears feed on spawning salmon.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

The Angoon waterfront is seen in summer 2014. CCW file photo

Angoon’s small-boat harbor is seen in 2008. CCW file photo

Humans, too, are attracted by the area’s seafood. The Angoon Trading Company — the only store on Admiralty Island — hosts a kids trout derby in May and a king salmon

derby in June. Unlike most fishing derbies in Southeast Alaska, Angoon’s seafood competitions are free — no ticket is required to enter. Fishermen simply have to weigh their fish at the Trading Company, and they have a chance to win a variety of donated prizes. Summer peaks on July 4 with a community picnic hosted by the Alaska Native Sisterhood. Angoon is served by the Alaska Marine Highway system, with stops at least twice per week. Air service is available from Juneau on carriers including Alaska Seaplanes. Several campgrounds offer places to stay, but those looking for less-rustic accommodations may find their options limited. Area lodges including Whaler’s Cove and Favorite Bay are typically booked solid during the summer, though cancellations may create space.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

COFFMAN COVE Kids’ art is seen at the annual Coffman Cove Seafood Festival in 2013. Jeff Lund | For the Capital City Weekly

offman Cove is one of several communities on Prince of Wales Island. Located on the northeast coast of America’s fourth-largest island, it was founded as a base for loggers and served in that role for decades until the closure of Ketchikan Pulp Co. in 1997. After the town’s largest industry left, Coffman Cove reinvented itself with a focus on tourism and recreational fishing. There is a gas station, liquor store and bar, cabin rentals, guided fishing, hunting and more. A public library offers wireless Internet for visitors. Coffman Cove’s first big event of the summer is its halibut derby, which will open its third year of competition at the start of June. Anyone who catches a tagged halibut will win a prize, and anyone who buys a 8

ticket for the derby is entered into a list for random-draw prizes. The halibut derby ends Aug. 31. In the first week of July is the community silver salmon tournament, which is entering its fifth year. Past tournaments have included as many as 70 boats competing to catch the largest silver salmon. Fishing starts early in the morning and runs until about 5 o’clock, when the tournament winner is announced at a gathering at the fishing dock. On July 4, Coffman Cove holds its annual Independence Day celebration. Past celebrations have opened with a Fourth of July parade, followed by a fun run. There’s likely to be a greased pole contest, kayak races and a sawdust pile for kids. Lunch is a barbecue at the town ball field, and there’s typically a chowder/soup contest and pie-baking con-

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

test to accompany the food. As summer winds down, Coffman Cove holds its seafood and arts festival in August. This is the town’s showcase event. More than 40 vendors come to sell their art and crafts as bands perform live music. Local seafood is served throughout the festival. In addition to Oceanview RV Park and campground, cabin rentals and a bunkhouse are available. Coffman Cove is accessible by land, sea and air. The town is connected to the Prince of Wales road system and is 70 miles from

the Inter-Island Ferry Authority’s terminal in Hollis. (Fifty-two miles of the road from Hollis are paved; 18 miles are improved gravel.) The Inter-Island Ferry Authority offers regular service between Ketchikan and Hollis, and rental cars are available for those who do not drive onto the ferry. Air service direct to Coffman Cove is available from Ketchikan. An Alaska Marine Highway ferry is scheduled to stop in Coffman Cove twice this summer. Coffman Cove offers full-service harbor services for those with their own boats.

CRAIG

raig is the largest of several communities on Prince of Wales Island. Located on the west coast of America’s fourth-largest island, it was founded in the late 1800s and incorporated in 1922 to serve the salmon and logging industry. While Tlingit and Haida Natives have used the Craig area for hundreds of years, its modern history dates to 1907, when Craig Millar built a fish saltery on nearby Fish Egg Island. The community that sprang up nearby was known as Fish Egg until it took Millar’s first name. A cannery and cold storage plant were built, and a post office, school, sawmill and other facilities followed before the town was incorporated. The growth of the timber industry added

a second element to Craig’s economy, and today tourism and recreational fishing represent a third element. Most Southeast communities offer one fishing derby — Craig has two. The 16th annual Prince of Wales Marathon takes place in May as part of Memorial Day celebrations. On the first Saturday of each month, Craig holds the Island Grind Variety Show in Craig High School. Local acts perform to the applause of the crowd. From January through October, the Craig City Gym hosts a swap meet on the third Saturday of the month.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

CRAIG

Craig is the largest town on Prince of Wales Island and can be used as a base for vacations that include trips to other POW towns. Capital City Weekly file photo

Craig celebrates military appreciation week in June with a range of local events. On July 3-4, Craig hosts its Independence Day celebrations. Kids are invited to bring their pole and bait to the North Cove Dock for a kids fishing derby, and fireworks will brighten the sky on July 3. Craig offers the widest selection of accommodations on Prince of Wales Island, with options including bed and breakfasts, cabins and motel-style rooms. Fishing and hunting lodges may have rooms available, but these are typically booked in advance. Visit the Prince of Wales Chamber of Commerce (www. princeofwalescoc.org) for a full listing of 10

HARBOR INFORMATION Rates: $0.50 per foot per day or $4 per foot per month Utilities: Potable water available at no cost. 30-amp power is $8/ day; 50-amp power is $10/day Fuel: Fuel is available from Petro Marine - VHF Channel 16 Services: Coin-operated showers and a bathroom are available in the harbor office. A laundromat is located in town, a few blocks from the harbor. Craig Public Library offers Internet and computers, and wi-fi is avilable in many restaurants. Craig Aquatic Center has exercise facilities, a sauna and a hot tub.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator â&#x20AC;˘ www.capitalcityweekly.com

Craig and nearby Klawock offer ample opportunities for cultural activities. Capital City Weekly file photo

accommodations in Craig. Craig is accessible by land, sea and air. The town is connected to the Prince of Wales

road system and is 31 miles by car from the Inter-Island Ferry Authority’s terminal in Hollis. (All of the road between Hollis and Craig is paved.) The Inter-Island Ferry Authority offers regular service between Ketchikan and Hollis, and rental cars are available for those who do not drive onto the ferry. Air service direct to Craig’s seaplane base is available from Pacific Airways, Promech Air and Taquan Air from Ketchikan. Craig has no airport of its own, but there is a 5,000-foot paved runway in nearby Klawock. Harris Air offers flights to that runway from Sitka, and Island Air Express has flights from Ketchikan.

EDNA BAY

dna Bay is a small town of 49 people (according to the state of Alaska) on Kosciusko Island, about 90 miles northwest of Ketchikan or 40 miles northwest of Craig. Located to the west of Prince of Wales Island, Edna Bay’s claim to fame is that it is the newest incorporated city in Alaska, its residents having voted for incorporation in summer 2014. Edna Bay grew in the 1950s as a logging camp, but it also became known as a fishing destination. Today, most of the village’s residents earn their living from fishing, according to a National Marine Fisheries Service survey. Edna Bay is accessible by small boat or by

floatplane via Taquan Air or Promech Air, both of which fly from Ketchikan. Once on the island, visitors can access most of Kosciusko through an extensive network of logging roads created during the last century. There is a state-owned dock, but facilities are minimal. The town school functions as a community hub, as does Sunrise Lodge and General Store, which also functions as the town’s post office. According to state business records, there is a cabin rental business in Edna Bay, but no phone number was listed online.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

ELFIN COVE

ith an official year-round population of just 16 people, Elfin Cove is one of the smallest communities in Alaska. According to the 2010 census, it ranked 327th among 352 Alaska communities by population. Located on the northern shore of Chichagof Island, it is approximately 33 miles west of Hoonah and 70 miles west of Juneau. Elfin Cove relies upon the summer fishing industry for its business. A 2005 study by the University of Alaska found that Elfin Cove-area lodges served about 1,500 clients each year. The town’s year-round population swells in the summer to care for those clients. According to records kept by the Alaska Department of Commerce, Elfin Cove was originally named “Gunk Hole” by fisher12

men who used its harbor to take shelter from storms. In 1927, E.O. “Ernie” Swanson set up a fish buying station at Gunk Hole. It was successful, and the shoreside warehouse grew into a collection of docks, a general store, cabins and a restaurant. In 1935, according to an apocryphal tale, the town’s first postmaster, Ruth Swanson (Ernie’s wife), refused to take the job unless the town’s name was changed. That year, the community became Elfin Cove, after Swanson’s boat. The town’s permanent population peaked in 1947, at 75, but it has remained tied to the fishing industry throughout the years. Today, Elfin Cove has a handful of lodges offering guest accommodations. There is a restaurant, general store, laundromat

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

Elfin Cove is seen from the air in 2011. CCW file photo

DON’T MISS IT: WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS Cruisers traveling from Elfin Cove to Sitka or visitors traveling by float plane should consider a side trip to White Sulfur Springs on the west side of Chichagof Island. Commercial fishermen, Pelican residents and vacationers have kept this natural hot spring a secret for years. Located in the West Chichagof Wilderness, facilities at the hot spring are maintained by the U.S. Forest Service. A new bathhouse was completed in 2013, and a nearby rentable guest cabin was built in 2012. The cabin, which sleeps 4-5, costs $35 per night to rent. The bathhouse is free to use whether or not you rent the cabin. Visit www.recreation.gov for details.

(with token-operated showers), full-service marina and a town museum, the Elfin Cove Museum. A boardwalk connects homes and businesses — there are no cars or significant roads. Mail service is available, but Internet ac-

cess is spotty. There are no moorage fees for boats stopping at Elfin Cove. Visitors typically arrive by floatplane from Juneau (Alaska Seaplanes offers service), or by skiff from Pelican, a stop on the Alaska Marine Highway.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

GUSTAVUS

Gustavus celebrated its centennial last year with traditional games and fun, but the town’s lively atmosphere shows up every year for the Fourth of July.

Mary Catharine Martin | Capital City Weekly

hen Capt. George Vancouver sailed through Icy Strait in 1794, Glacier Bay was completely covered by the Grand Pacific Glacier. By 1914, the glacier had retreated some 65 miles, exposing a broad, flat plain. Forest grew on some parts of this plain, and it seemed perfect to the first settlers who arrived at Strawberry Point (later named Gustavus) in June 1914. According to traditional oral histories, the ancestral home of the Hoonah people was in Glacier Bay, but it was destroyed by advancing glaciers. A similar story is told in Tlingit oral histories that refer to “Sand Mountain Town,” 14

which was located in Bartlett Cove. Just west of Gustavus, the Woosh-Keetan Tlingit inhabited a clan house at Point Gustavus until 1922. Many seasonal fish camps were also located in the area until the first three families of homesteaders arrived. These homesteaders raised food and families, cut timber and explored for gold. They tried trapping, hunting and cattle ranching until 1925, when President Calvin Coolidge established Glacier Bay National Monument. After the settlers protested, Gustavus was excluded from the monument. That lasted only until 1939, when the monument was expanded, swallowing Gustavus. Many

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homesteaders moved away, but World War II breathed new life into the community when the U.S. Army built a long concrete runway at the townsite. The National Park Service established the headquarters of Glacier Bay National Monument at nearby Bartlett Cove in 1952, and three years later President Eisenhower reopened the area around Gustavus to homesteading. Glacier Bay became a national park in 1980, and today, Gustavus is known as the gateway to Glacier Bay. Alaska Airlines offers regular jet service to Gustavus, and regional airlines including Alaska Seaplanes and Wings of Alaska offer

multiple flights per day between Gustavus and Juneau. The National Park Service limits the number of private boats entering Glacier Bay: Permits are required between June 1 and Aug. 31. Many tour services offer excursions into Glacier Bay National Park, and charter fishing guides offer day trips outside park boundaries. Visitor services are available, though shopping is limited. Internet access is available at Gustavus’ public library. Gustavus has a small road system, and walking or biking is easy, given the flat terrain. Taxis are available for stormy days.

Cruise ships only get so close to Glacier Bay’s glaciers, but by setting out from Gustavus, you could get a personal experience aboard a kayak. National Park Service photo

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

HAINES

aines, at the top of Lynn Canal, is growing in popularity as a tourist destination for Southeast residents and visitors alike. Sandwiched on the Chilkat Peninsula between the Chilkoot and Chilkat Inlets, Haines is bordered by the Chilkat Range to the west and the Coast Range to the east. The original Tlingit name for Haines was Deishu, which meant â&#x20AC;&#x153;end of the trail.â&#x20AC;? Occupation of the Haines area likely began between 5,000 to 10,000 years ago, based on archaeological evidence found throughout Southeast Alaska. Local geography afforded traditional Tlingit inhabitants control over strategic trade routes linking coastal areas to the Interior. The Chilkat Valley had many village sites historically; only two remain today. Europeans began exploring the area in the late 1700s. By the mid-1800s, the Hudson 16

Bay Company attempted to build a fort in the area, but it was razed by Chilkat Natives in 1852. The modern town of Haines was named in honor of Francina Haines of the Presbyterian Home Missions Board. Presbyterian missionaries were among the first permanent white settlers of the area in the second half of the 19th century. In 1892, Jack Dalton established a toll road on the Tlingit trade route into the Interior to cash in on gold-seekers heading north into Canada. Haines grew as a mining supply center during the Klondike Gold Rush. With a growing border dispute between the U.S. and Canada, an army post was commissioned in 1898 to provide a U.S. military presence in the region. Fort William H. Seward was garrisoned in 1903, and became a major component of Haines economy for many years. The fort was decommissioned in 1947, and was purchased by a group of war

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator â&#x20AC;˘ www.capitalcityweekly.com

Haines and nearby Port Chilkoot is seen from the air in March 2014. James Brooks | Capital City Weekly

veterans with With so many HARBOR INFORMATION hopes of creatnatural and manRates: $0.50 per foot, per day; stays over ing an arts and made attractions, two weeks use the monthly rate, which is commerce comHaines has a wide $5 per foot, per month. munity. The range of visitor Utilities: Potable water available at no buildings still accommodations cost. 30-amp power is $10/day plus constand and are a ranging from bed nection costs; 50-amp power is $20/day distinctive landand breakfasts to plus connection costs. mark of Haines. motels. A full They are now listing is available privately owned from the Haines homes, accomConvention and modations, restaurants, galleries and shops. Visitors Bureau (www.haines.ak.us/). Haines bills itself as “the adventure capiAs one of only three Southeast Alaska tal of Alaska” and is a favorite destination for communities on the North American road the world’s backcountry skiers, who flock system, transportation to and from Haines to heliskiing tours each spring. In the fall, is easy. thousands of bald eagles flock to the banks Haines is one of the main ports for the of the Chilkat River to eat a late run of chum Alaska Marine Highway, which carries cars salmon. That flock has given Haines the between Haines and Juneau on a daily basis. nickname “Valley of the Eagles.” The Haines-Skagway Fast Ferry offers daily 2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

HAINES

The annual Southeast Alaska State Fair brings people from across Southeast to Haines for food, games and music. It should be on your to-do list. Klas Stolpe | For the Capital City Weekly

service between those two cities, and Alaska Fjord Lines offers an alternative to the Alaska Marine Highway on the Juneau route. Haines is also served by regional air carriers including Alaska Seaplanes and Wings of Alaska. Haines has an abundance of popular events: • The first is the 23nd annual Great Alaskan Craft Beer and Home Brew Festival, which runs May 22-23. Ticket sales open Feb. 1. 18

• The Haines King Salmon Derby kicks off in late May and runs for two weekends of fishing competition. Tickets for the derby are available in Haines. • On the summer solstice, the eighth annual Fisherman’s Community Barbecue invites the public to a king salmon dinner with music, dancing and a beer garden to celebrate Southeast Alaska’s wild salmon fisheries. Tickets must be purchased in advance. • If you’re looking for something with a little more adventure, the solstice is also the

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date of the 23nd annual Kluane to Chilkat Bike Relay. This bike race runs 148.8 miles from Haines Junction, Yukon to Haines. The relay follows the Haines Highway through Kluane National Park, Tatshenshini Alsek Provincial Park and through the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve. For more details or to register, visit www.kcibr.org. • July 4 brings Haines’ Independence Day celebration, which includes old-time small-town events highlighted by a Main Street parade and the famous Mt. Ripinsky Run (companion to Seward’s Mount Marathon run). Enjoy foot races, the Chilkoot River raft race, watermelon eating contest, mud volleyball, a firehose battle, nail-pounding compe-

tition, pie-eating contest and barbecue. End the day with the Independence Day Music Festival and fireworks at the Fort Seward Parade Grounds. • At the end of July is the 46th annual Southeast Alaska State Fair. The fair includes music and entertainment, contests, attractions, exhibits, food and shopping. Dress up for the wearable art show or the fishermen’s rodeo. Be sure to register in advance for the logging show, the Alien Adventure Run, the fiddle contest or the Haines Hustle trail run. Tickets were $40 for all four days last year and available at the fair gates. • If you’re a cyclist but can’t do the Kluane relay, the annual Haines Century Ride takes place in August.

November’s Bald Eagle Festival attracts people from around the world to see thousands of bald eagles line the banks of the Chilkat River. Emily Russo Miller | For the Capital City Weekly

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

HOONAH

eventy-one years ago this summer, a devastating fire swept through Hoonah. The flames of June 14, 1944 consumed almost the entire town: cannery, businesses and homes. Some things even more valuable were lost — priceless, irreplaceable artifacts of Tlingit history. Today, Hoonah has reinvented itself as a tourism destination for visiting cruise ships. Businesses at the Icy Strait Point complex and the world’s longest and highest zip line have made Hoonah a popular summer destination for visitors. Hoonah is located in Port Frederick on the northeast corner of Chichagof Island, about 30 miles west of Juneau along Icy Strait. Port Frederick was explored and given its modern name by Capt. Vancouver in 1794. Hoonah has been the primary permanent settlement of the Huna Tlingit since earliest recorded history. Its Tlingit name is Gaotlakan (Gaaw T’ak Aan). After the 1944 fire, the federal government helped to rebuild the community with wartime housing destined for Hawaii. Many of these “war houses” still stand in the community. The Hoonah salmon cannery closed in 1953 but helped maintain and support Hoonah fishing boats until 1999. Today, Hoonah is the largest Tlingit community in Alaska, with a state-estimated population of 798 people. Totem sites containing locally carved canoes and totems are located in front of Hoonah City School and at Icy Strait Point. Hoonah is famed for its whale watching, as 20

Hoonah’s harbor is seen in 2005. Capital City Weekly file photo

deep water allows humpback and killer whales to approach close to town as they search for food. Hoonah-based charter boats offer daily trips in the summer that cruise the north shore of Chichagof Island to Point Adolphus to view brown bears and bald eagles along the shoreline and humpback whales, harbor seals, Steller sea lions and Dall porpoises in the surrounding waters. Kayaking is popular, as the 40-mile paddle from Hoonah to Tenakee Springs is considered a global highlight. Many sportfishing guides make Hoonah their home, as Icy Strait is the highway for salmon en route to spawning grounds in streams throughout northern Southeast Alaska. The largest silver salmon caught in Alaska by a sportfisherman was taken in Icy Strait. The Alaska Marine Highway stops in Hoonah several times each week, and air service is available from Juneau aboard Alaska Seaplanes and Wings of Alaska. Skiff access is also possible. Hoonah has a wide range of visitor services and accommodations.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

HYDABURG

ydaburg, 45 miles west of Ketchikan, is one of several communities on Prince of Wales Island. Incorporated as a city in 1927, Hydaburg’s 405 residents make their living through commercial fishing and logging on the southwest coast of Prince of Wales. Hydaburg’s history dates to 1911 when the villages of Sukkwan, Klinkwan and Kowkan combined forces to fight the U.S. government’s upon Native rights. Hydaburg residents repeatedly fought the U.S. government to protect their land, a campaign the culminated with the 1971 Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act. Hydaburg is predominantly Native and today is the largest Haida community in the United States. Hydaburg’s culture is a point of pride; the

town hosts a large number of artists, carvers and weavers. A totem park built in 1930 has grown with the addition of new poles raised as part of a burgeoning interest in Native culture. One of the best times to see this interest on display is the Hydaburg Culture Camp and festival, which takes place each July. Scheduled floatplane service to Hydaburg from Ketchikan is provided by Taquan Air, with charter service available from Pacific Airways and Promech Air. Hydaburg is on the Prince of Wales Island road system and is connected to Ketchikan through the Inter-Island Ferry Authority’s landing at Hollis. The city also owns a dock and small-boat harbor. Lodging options are limited.

HYDER

yder is nestled at the head of Portland Canal, a 96 mile-long fjord that forms a portion of the U.S./Canadian border. Hyder is 75 mi from Ketchikan and less than two miles from Stewart, British Columbia. The Nisga’a tribe, who live throughout western British Columbia, called the head of Portland Canal “Skam-A-Kounst,” meaning “safe place,” probably referring to the site as a 22

retreat from the harassment of the neighboring coastal Haidas. The Nisga’a used this area as a seasonal berry-picking and bird-hunting site. Gold and silver lodes were discovered in the area in late 1898, mainly on the Canadian side in the upper Salmon River basin. Townships sprung up on the Alaskan and Canadian sides of the border. On the Alaskan side, Portland City was founded. In 1914, local prospectors applied for a postal permit but were denied on the basis that too many U.S. communities were named “Portland.” The decision was made to name the community after Frederick Hyder, a

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respected Canadian mining engineer who predicted the area would have a prosperous future in mining. The town’s boom years ended in 1928 when a fire tore through the town’s business district just as the region’s mines entered a long decline. Hyder, with a modern population of just 94, is largely dependent on tourism from highway visitors. Hyder continues to pay homage to its mining roots and is known as the “Friendliest Ghost Town in Alaska.” Hyder maintains close ties with Canada and obtains all of its electricity and telephone service from the Canadian side of the border.

For that reason, Hyder is the only town in Alaska that uses British Columbia’s 250 area code instead of Alaska’s 907. Hyder has a number of Gold Rush-era saloons and the famous Toastworks toaster museum. For those seeking natural attractions, Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site allows visitors to watch the numerous brown and black bears that eat returning salmon from July to September. Hyder’s Independence Day celebrations begin July 1 as the twin cities of Hyder and Stewart celebrate Canada Day and Independence Day in the same week with a parade and fireworks.

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DOWNTOWN JUNEAU

JUNEAU

he modern history of Juneau, hub of Southeast Alaska, dates to August 1880, when Auk Tlingit chief Kowee showed prospectors Richard Harris and Joseph Juneau where to find gold in the area. By October, a town had sprung up on a beach along Gastineau Channel. Initially known as Harrisburg, it became known as Juneau City in 1882. The gold and silver resources of the area started one of Alaska’s first gold rushes. Thousands of people flocked north from the Lower 48 and Canada, and the new city grew. The territorial capital moved from Sitka in 1906,

HARBOR INFORMATION Rates: Douglas, Harris, Aurora and Statter harbors are 54 cents per foot/day. Monthly rates are $4.20 per foot in Douglas, Harris and Aurora, and $7.05 per foot in Statter.

Utilities: Potable water available year-round at downtown harbors and Statter’s A and B floats. Electricity is $4.80/day for 20-amp service, $7.20/day for 30-amp, $24/day for 50-amp, and $48/ day for 100-amp. Invites you to ride while you’re in Juneau

CAPITAL TRANSIT

Taku Fuel dock (south of CAPITAL TRANSITFuel: downtown); Petro Marine fuel

Invites you to ride while you’re in Juneau

Capital Transit buses serve the

Invites you to ride while you’re in Juneau entire Juneau area and have

dock (across Gastineau Channel

stops nearby the four major from Harris Harbor) and Petro Harbors. In Douglas, catch Capital Transit buses serve thethe Marine Fuel at Auke Bay all offer bus atJuneau the Douglas entire area andPost haveOffice. stops nearbyHarbor the four major For Harris and Aurora, fuel and lubricating oils. Harbors. Douglas, thethe you mayIncatch thecatch bus at bus at the Douglas Post Federal Building. And Office. at Auke Services: Bathrooms are available For Harris Harbor and Aurora, Bay, the shelter is just up the you may catch the bus at thein Auke Bay and Aurora Harbor. hill across fromAnd Dehart’s Store. Federal Building. at Auke Showers are available at Statter Schedules are available on every Bay, bus the shelter is just up the MONDAY-FRIDAY: Bus servicehill for across Juneaufrom and Dehart’s Douglas Store. runsHarbor, every Harbor Washboard and & at other throughout Juneau halflocations hour from 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. and then hourly until 11:00 p.m. Augustus Brown Pool. Laundry MONDAY-FRIDAY: Bus service for Juneau and Douglas runs Express bus servicefor between the on Airport and Downtown runsevery every Email: Capital_Transit@juneau.org directions how to get services are available at Harbor half hour from 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. and then hourly until 11:00 p.m. from your point7:30 to the closest busp.m. stop. halfarrival hour from a.m. to 7:00 Express bus service between the Airport and Downtown runs every Washboard,

1114 Glacier Ave. is available at public liFor more information: braries and at many coffee shops 6:00 pm and then hourly to 11:00 pm. SUNDAY: Buses run every half hour 9:00 am to 7:00 pm. and restaurants. SUNDAY: Buses run every half hour 9:00 am to 7:00 pm. Free sewage pump-out is availSchedules are available on every bus and at other locations throughout Juneau. able at Douglas, Harris and StatSchedules are on every bus and at other locations throughout Juneau. Give usavailable a call! ter harbors.

Visit: www.juneau.org/capitaltransit bus schedules half hour from 7:30 a.m.for to 7:00 p.m.

SATURDAY: Saturday buses run every half hour 7:00 am Internet to 6:00SATURDAY: pm and then hourly to 11:00 pm. Saturday buses run every half hour 7:00 am to

789-6901

For more information:

For more information: 789-6901 Give Us A Call! 789-6901 Give Us A Call! 26

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

The Gitterounders, an Anchorage musical group, perform April 11, 2014 at the 40th Alaska Folk Fest. James Brooks | Capital City Weekly

and Juneau has stayed the capital of Alaska since then. While most mining operations ended in World War II, Juneau has seen its economy driven by government and service jobs. Juneau is a popular tourist destination, with almost 1 million (mostly cruise ship) each year. For visitors coming from within Southeast Alaska, there’s plenty on the schedule to see. • In March is the 69th annual Gold Medal Basketball tournament, which attracts teams from across Southeast Alaska. • April 6-12 is the Alaska Folk Festival, an annual celebration of the best folk musicians in Alaska. • The spring king salmon derby takes

place each May. Sponsored by the Tlingit & Haida Alumni Scholarship Program, proceeds from this annual derby fund scholarships for tribal enrollees. Tickets are available at Western Auto Marine, DeHart’s Auke Bay Store and Harri Plumbing and Heating. Weigh-in stations are located at Jerry’s Meats and Seafoods near Western Auto, and DeHart’s, in Auke Bay, above the boat harbor. • Perseverance Theatre, Juneau’s wellknown performing arts group, hosts regular performances at its theater in Douglas. For a full schedule of events, visit http://www. ptalaska.org/ • The 29th annual Juneau Jazz and Classics festival will take place from May 1 to

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

JUNEAU May 16, offering a selection of world-class musicians. The festival also hosts musicians in Juneau at various times throughout the year. For full details, visit http://www.jazzandclassics.org/ • The University of Alaska Southeast hosts Community Day on Campus from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. May 17 at the Auke Bay Campus. Enjoy live music, food, a petting zoo, market, and more. • The Southeast Road Runners host a fun 5K or other run each weekend through the summer. For start times and participation information, visit http://southeastroadrunners.weebly.com. • On the first Friday of each month, Juneau businesses and art galleries hold evening events starting at 4:30 p.m. First Fri-

day events are organized by the Juneau Arts and Humanities Council, and details can be found at jahc.org. • On June 14-15, the Juneau Symphony will host its Summer Pops music concert. • Juneau celebrates its gold rush heritage with Gold Rush Days in late June at Savikko Park. Enjoy logging and mining skills competitions, exhibits, food and fun activities. • Southeast Alaska Independent Living observes the summer solstice with “Only Fools Run at Midnight,” a fun 5K run/ walk/wheel that begins at 11:59 p.m. June 21. Costumes are encouraged. For details or tickets, contact SAIL at 586-4920. • The 69th Golden North Salmon Derby takes place in the first half of August. Spon-

Jeff Trego competes in the Men’s Vertical Chopping event at the 2014 Gold Rush Days mining and logging competition. Marlena Sloss | For the Capital City Weekly 28

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

John Cooney, of the Alaska Department of Fish and Game, measures a king salmon at Auke Bay Harbor during the 68th Golden North Salmon Derby. Marlena Sloss | For the Capital City Weekly

sored by the Territorial Sportsmen, this is the oldest continuously run salmon derby in Alaska. Proceeds fund scholarships. For details, visit www.goldennorthsalmonderby.org. â&#x20AC;˘ In September, beer lovers flow to Centennial Hall for the Capital Brewfest, which features the best beer from Alaska and the western U.S. Juneau is reachable by the Alaska Marine Highway and by airlines traveling through Juneau International Airport. There are ample hotel, motel and bed-and-breakfast rooms. For a full listing, visit the Juneau Convention and Visitors Bureau at www. traveljuneau.com. Events large and small take place in Juneau almost every weekend. For a full listing, pick up the weekly issue of the Capital City Weekly or the Thursday issue of the Juneau Empire.

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2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator â&#x20AC;˘ www.capitalcityweekly.com

KAKE

ake is a community of 598 people on the northwest coast of Kupreanof Island along Keku Strait, 38 miles northwest of Petersburg and 95 air miles southwest of Juneau. Kake is a predominantly Tlingit community whose history dates into prehistory. In the 1800s the Tlingits were known to travel by canoe as far south as Puget Sound for trading, seasonal work, and raiding. After the Alaska Purchase, tensions between Kake residents and white settlers reached a climax when the U.S. Navy sent the gunboat Saginaw to shell several villages and destroy homes, boats and stored food. Following the attack, several villages consolidated at the site of Kake to support each other. A government school and store were built, missionaries arrived, and a cannery was built. Today, fishing, logging and subsistence remain the cornerstones of the community, as does Tlingit culture. The Keku Cannery was named a National Historic Landmark in 1997 and is being stabilized in hopes of becoming a tourist destination. Kake is a destination for recreational fishermen and for people seeking bear viewing. Kake is a departure point for the Tebenkof Bay Wilderness, a system of hundreds of islands, inner bays and coves. Remnants of three or four different species of dinosaurs have been found near Kake. Kake’s biggest celebration of the summer is the annual Dog Salmon Festival or — as 30

it’s known to locals — Dogfest. This year’s festival (the 21st annual) in July and features various races, competitions, food, dancing and music. There’s a fish filleting contest, a greased pole climb, a fish tote race and fish tossing contest. The exact schedule and list of events is still being worked out. Despite the festival’s name, dog salmon (formally known as chum salmon) aren’t the fish of choice in Kake. That honor goes to silver salmon. Instead, the festival’s name comes from a joke by former Kake Tribal Corporation CEO Gordon Jackson. When the Kake cold storage plant reopened in the mid-1990s, the tribal corporation originally held community barbecues whenever it processed 1 million pounds of fish. “We had so many million pounds (the first summer), it got kind of expensive,” Jackson told the Juneau Empire in 2005. In the ensuing controversy over the cost of the barbecues, Jackson recalls that he mentioned: Why don’t we have a dog salmon festival and invite all our chums? It was just a joke, but the idea took root, he said. Kake can be reached by air and sea. There are scheduled floatplane and air taxi flights from Juneau and Sitka on regional airlines including Alaska Seaplanes. An Alaska Marine Highway ferry visits the community four times per week.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

KETCHIKAN

etchikan, known as the “Gateway City” or “Alaska’s First City,” is the hub of southern Southeast Alaska. With a population of 8,313 people, Ketchikan is expected to host almost 1 million (mostly cruise ship) tourists this summer. Many are on ships traveling the Inside Passage, and for them, Ketchikan is the first stop in Alaska. Tongass and Cape Fox Tlingits used Ketchikan Creek as a fish camp, which they called “kitschk-hin,” meaning creek of “the thundering wings of an eagle.” The abundant fish and timber resources attracted non-Natives, too. In 1885, Mike Martin bought 160 acres from Chief Kyan, which later became the township of Ketchikan. The first cannery opened in 1886 near the mouth of Ketchikan Creek, and four more were built by 1912. The Ketchikan Post Office was established in 1892, and the city was incorporated in 1900. By this time, nearby gold and copper discoveries had briefly brought activity to Ketchikan as a mining supply center. During 1936, seven canneries were in operation, producing

HARBOR INFORMATION Rates: $0.68 per foot per day. Monthly moorage available for $7.10/foot. Utilities: Potable water available for free. Electricity is available for purchase: 110-volt power for 14 cents per foot per day or 220-volt power for 28 cents per foot per day. Fuel: Ketchikan has three fuel docks: Two are south of town, near the Coast Guard base, and one is north, across from the airport. Services: Public bathrooms and showers are available at the harbor office in the parking lot above Bar Harbor North. Internet is available upon request.

1.5 million cases of salmon. The need for lumber for new construction and packing boxes spawned the Ketchikan Spruce Mills in 1903,

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KETCHIKAN which operated for over 70 years. Spruce was in high demand during World War II, and Ketchikan became a supply center for area logging. A $55 million pulp mill was constructed at Ward Cove near Ketchikan in 1954. Its operation fueled the growth of the community. The mill’s 50-year contract with the U.S. Forest service for timber was canceled, and the pulp mill closed in March 1997. Tourism has grown to replace the timber industry as the driver of the town’s economy. That’s reflected in the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show, a popular tourist attraction that

has skilled performers demonstrating skills like log-rolling and tree climbing. Nearby, the Southeast Alaska Discovery Center highlights the Tongass National Forest and Misty Fjords National Monument, both of which cover most of southern Southeast Alaska. The Deer Mountain Tribal Hatchery and Eagle Center offers an educational look at Alaska’s salmon hatcheries and showcases birds that have been rescued and are being prepared for release. Nearby is the Totem Heritage Center, whose collection of 19th century totem poles

Kids scramble to catch rolling blueberry-shaped balls during the annual blueberry tumble, in which thousands of “blueberries” are released to roll down Ketchikan’s streets.

Mary Catharine Martin | Capital City Weekly

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

Even blueberry costumes are the rule during the blueberry festival.

Mary Catharine Martin | Capital City Weekly

is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Like Juneau, Ketchikan offers a First Friday celebration on the first Friday of each month. Local galleries and businesses open their doors to visitors with a special show. Another regular event is the Ketchikan Farmers Market, which takes place on the third Saturday of the month. The biggest event of the summer is the Blueberry Arts Festival, which takes place in the first week of August. Thousands of residents and visitors will gather for this 40th annual festival, which includes blueberry-themed events that live up to the festival’s name. Main Street Gallery opens its art show on the first day of the festival. On the second day is the Blueberry Pet and Doll Parade and the 17th

annual Gigglefeet Dance Festival. The festival includes the big slug contest (it is like it sounds — find the biggest slug you can, and bring it in), the blueberry brunch, slug race, pie-eating contest, battle of the bands, beard and moustache contest and community art project. The festival concludes each year with a fishermen’s poetry slam and sockeye cinquain contest and the final day of the Gigglefeet Dance Festival. Ketchikan is supplied with regularly scheduled jet service from Alaska Airlines to Ketchikan International Airport. Numerous local airlines also offer service to and from Ketchikan. The Alaska Marine Highway offers regular service to Ketchikan, and the city has five small-boat harbors and a full-service marina.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

METLAKATLA

etchikan calls itself the “First City,” but boats sailing north to Alaska pass another Alaska community before they reach Ketchikan. Metlakatla, a town of almost 1,500 people, is located on Annette Island, 15 miles south of Ketchikan. Metlakatla means “saltwater channel passage” and was founded by a group of Canadian Tsimshian who migrated from Prince Rupert, British Columbia in 1887, seeking religious freedom. They were led by Reverend William Duncan, a Scottish lay priest of the Anglican Church, who had begun his missionary work with the Tsimshian at Fort Simpson, British Columbia in 1857. The Rev. Duncan traveled to Washington, D.C., around 1886 to personally request land from President Grover Cleveland for the Tsimshians. The island was selected by a local search committee, and by 1890 there were 823 residents. Congress declared Annette Island a

PELICAN

elican is a community of 79 people on the northwest coast of Chichagof Island, 80 miles north of Sitka and 70 miles west of Juneau. Much of this scenic community is built on pilings above tidelands. At the time of Western contact, the Hoonah and Angoon Tlingit used the northern portion of Chichagof Island for seasonal 34

federal Indian reservation in 1891. Today, it remains the only officially designated Indian Reservation in Alaska. The reservation covers 86,000 acres and is not subject to state jurisdiction. Metlakatla regulates commercial fishing in nearby waters, operates its own tribal court and government. Two companies offer tours of the community. Metlakatla Tours (886-8687) operates a bus tour that includes traditional Tsimshian singing and dancing with full regalia. Laughing Berry Tours (886-4133) operates individual guided tours. Metlakatla is accessible by floatplane and small boat from Ketchikan. The Alaska Marine Highway System serves Metlakatla with regular runs from Ketchikan. Lodging is available from the Metlakatla Inn (886-3456) or the Tuck ‘Em Inn, (9966611).

subsistence hunting and fishing. Some gold mining activity took place in Lisianski Inlet in the early 1930s. The ApexEl Nido mine produced 50,000 ounces of gold, but production was winding down by the time Pelican was settled in the 1930s. A cold storage plant was the first de-

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

PELICAN Carved totems line Pelican’s scenic boardwalks in spring 2014. Emily Russo Miller | For the Capital City Weekly

veloped at this site in 1938. A Finnish man named Kalle (Charley) Raataikainen bought fish in this area, which he transported to Sitka. He chose this protected inlet as an ideal cold storage site and named the place after his fish-packing vessel, The Pelican. At the end of the 1938 fishing season, Raataikainen towed his two fish-buying scows to the site and beached them. One was converted into a cookhouse, and the other into a warehouse. The first buildings constructed in Pelican were a Finnish sauna and the Raatikainen home. Soon the Pelican Cold Storage Company was incorporated, and the community of Pelican grew around the cold storage operation.

In addition to the sauna, a store, office, sawmill, and post office had been erected by 1939. A school and cannery were developed in the 1940s, and the city was incorporated in 1943. Today, Pelican remains a fishing community whose motto is “closest to the fish.” The economy is highly dependent on commercial salmon fishing, crabbing and longline fisheries for halibut and sablefish. Tourism is a growing industry, as an increasing number of visitors are attracted to Pelican’s scenic boardwalks and White Sulfur Hot Springs, a natural hot springs with bathhouse and guest cabin 20 miles from Pelican. A range of lodging is available in Pelican. Visit www.pelican.net for details.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

PETERSBURG

etersburg is known as “Little Norway,” and a can’t-miss event in this town of 3,000 people is the annual Little Norway Festival. Syttende Mai, or May 17th, celebrates the signing of Norway’s constitution in 1814. In 1958, two local women organized the first celebration of this day, making the area’s Norwegian settlers feel that much more at home. In the 57 years since that first festival, Little Norway has grown into a three-day festival celebrating Norwegian heritage, U.S. Armed Forces Day, the coming of spring, and the start of the commercial fishing season. Petersburg doesn’t just stop at Little Norway, however. The town at the northwest end 36

of Mitkof Island — almost exactly halfway between Juneau and Ketchikan — has a long history. Tlingits from Kake used the north end of Mitkof Island as a summer fish camp, and some began using it as a permanent settlement. Petersburg was named after Peter Buschmann, a Norwegian immigrant and a pioneer in the cannery business, who arrived in the late 1890s. He built the Icy Strait Packing Company cannery, a sawmill, and a dock by 1900. His family’s homesteads grew into this community, populated largely by people of Scandinavian origin. In 1910, a city was formed, and by 1920, 600 people lived in Petersburg year-round.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

Petersburg’s waterfront is seen in 2005. Capital City Weekly file photo

During this time, fresh salmon and halibut were packed in glacier ice for shipment. Alaska’s first shrimp processor, Alaska Glacier Seafoods, was founded here in 1916. A cold storage plant was built in 1926. The cannery has operated continuously and is now known as Petersburg Fisheries, a subsidiary of Icicle Seafoods. In addition to the healthy fishing industry, Petersburg is welcoming a rising number of summer visitors. The town

HARBOR INFORMATION Rates: $0.50 per foot per day, plus 6% sales tax; monthly rate is $6 per foot per day, plus sales tax Utilities: Potable water available at 3 cents per gallon. Electricity is $6/day for 30-amp service, $10/day for 50-amp service, $34/day for 60amp service, $57/day for 100-amp, three-phase power. Fuel: Petro Marine dock is just south of the south harbor Services: Bathrooms and showers are available at the harbors. A shower is $2. No sewage pumpout facilities are available. A laundromat is available in town. Internet access is available at the Petersburg Public Library.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

PETERSBURG has a wide range of events to welcome tourists within Southeast Alaska and beyond: • In April is the annual blessing of Petersburg’s fishing fleet, the largest in Southeast Alaska. • Before Little Norway officially opens in mid-May, visitors can participate in the Paddle Battle Tournament. • The Petersburg Memorial Day Salmon Derby opens in late May. Sponsored by the Petersburg Chamber of Commerce, tickets for the derby are available at many businesses in town. For details, including the location of weigh stations, call 772-3646. • Petersburg’s Canned Salmon Classic is a unique contest that guesses the number of cans of salmon produced during the fishing season by Petersburg’s canneries. First prize in 2014 was $2,000 cash, and second prize is $1,000. Tickets are sold from July through August at businesses throughout town. • Like other communities throughout Southeast Alaska, Petersburg’s stores and galleries host special events on the first Friday of each month. • In mid-June is Petersburg’s CoH2O Triathlon, which includes a 500-yard swim, 10-mile bike ride, and 2.5-mile run. The event is sponsored by the Petersburg Parks and Recreation department. Call 772-3392 for details. • The town Fourth of July Celebration runs July 3-5 and includes a wide range of activities revolving around a street fair on Nordic Drive, a downtown parade, and fireworks at 11 p.m. July 4. • Petersburg wraps up its summer activi38

Vikings and Valkyries ride in the Viking ship during Petersburg’s annual Little Norway Festival. Mary Catharine Martin | Capital City Weekly

ties with the Tongass Rainforest Festival, in September. Events include an art show, educational lectures and talks, discussions about the Tongass National Rainforest, fun runs and more. • On the first Saturday of October is the Humpy 500 go-kart race, which features a kids race and elaborately costumed participants — even the pit crews dress up. • On the fourth Friday of October is the annual chili feed and brewfest hosted by the Sons of Norway. Judges grade the alcoholic and chili entries alike. • The last Saturday of October brings the annual Rain Country quilt show and the Octoberfest Artshare, Petersburg’s largest arts and crafts fair. Petersburg is on a mainline route of the Alaska Marine Highway and can be reached by air on Alaska Airlines. The town has a range of guest accommodations including hotel and motel-style lodging. Visit www. petersburgak.org for details.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

Welcome to Southeast Alaska’s 100% Smokefree Communities Haines l *Juneau l Klawock l Petersburg l Skagway l

88% of Alaskans believe people should be protected from secondhand smoke. Isn’t it time for a 100% smokefree Alaska? *Includes e-cigarettes

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

SITKA

Sitka, one of Alaska’s oldest organized cities, hugs the western shore of Baranof Island in the shadow of Mount Edgecumbe, Southeast Alaska’s best-known volcano. Sitka was originally inhabited by a major tribe of Tlingits, who called the village “Shee Atika.” Russian Vitus Bering’s expedition arrived in 1741, and the site became “New Archangel” in 1799. St. Michael’s Redoubt trading post and fort were built by Alexander Baranof, manager of the Russian-American company. Tlingits burned down the fort and looted the warehouse in 1802. In 1804, the Russians retaliated by destroying the Tlingit fort in the Battle of Sitka. This was the last major stand by the Tlingits against the Russians, and they evacuated the area until about 1822. By 1808, Sitka was the capital of Russian America. During the mid-1800s, Sitka was the major port on the north Pacific coast, 40

with ships calling from many nations. Furs destined for European and Asian markets were the main export, but salmon, lumber and ice were also exported to Hawaii, Mexico and California. After the purchase of Alaska by the U.S. in 1867, it remained the capital of the territory until 1906, when the seat of government was moved to Juneau. A Presbyterian missionary, Sheldon Jackson, started a school, and in 1878 one of the first canneries in Alaska was built in Sitka. During the early 1900s, gold mines contributed to its growth, and the city was incorporated in 1913. During World War II, the town was fortified and the U.S. Navy built an air base on Japonski Island across the harbor, with 30,000 military personnel and over 7,000 civilians. After the war, the Bureau of Indian Affairs converted some of the buildings into

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

Sitka is seen from the air in June 2014. James Brooks | Capital City Weekly

Mt. Edgecumbe High School. The U.S. Coast Guard now maintains the air station and other facilities on the island. Sitka is a history-oriented community with several historic sites commemorating the island’s Russian and Tlingit heritage. Alaska Day, Oct. 17, is celebrated each year with an elaborate ceremony. Events take place almost every weekend; the Capital City Weekly, KCAW-FM and Sitka Sentinel publish events calendars. Throughout the year, events entice visitors: • In January, Russian Christmas takes center stage with a variety of celebratory events. • The Sitka Jazz Festival takes place the first week in February and

HARBOR INFORMATION Rates: $0.87 per foot per day for boats up to 80 feet; boats 80-150 feet are $1.49 per day, and boats over 150 feet are $2.24 per foot per day Utilities: Potable water available at no cost. 30-amp power is $5/day; 50-amp power and above is $10 for connection, $10 for disconnection, and the cost of power Fuel: Fuel is available from the Petro Marine dock beneath the suspension bridge. Services: All harbors have bathrooms. Showers are available at Eliason Harbor, $1.50 for 7 minutes. Three sewage pumpout stations are available. There are two laundromats in town, and the harbor office has wi-fi, as does the library.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

SITKA features a variety of world-class acts. • The Ocean Wave Quilters’ Guild annual show takes place in May at Harrigan Centennial Hall. • The Sitka Seafood Festival homebrew beer contest usually happens in May at the Coast Guard gazebo. • The Sitka Salmon Derby, sponsored by the Sitka Sportsmen’s Association, runs for two consecutive weekends starting Memorial Day weekend. • The Sitka Summer Music Festival takes place in June with daily concerts at various times. For a full schedule of events, visit www.sitkamusicfestival.org. • Sitka Fine Arts Camp has taken place

each summer since 1973, attracting students aged 12-18 from across Alaska. For a schedule of classes, or to register, visit www. fineartscamp.org. • The Fourth of July celebration is a threeday event starting July 2 and ending July 4 with fireworks. This grand celebration includes a parade, game and food booths and other happenings. The Sitka Daily Sentinel will have a full schedule of events as the celebration approaches. • The Home Skillet Music Festival is an all-ages music festival in August featuring local and guest acts performing rock, blues and other eclectic music. For a complete schedule, visit www.homeskilletfest.com.

An excited winner displays his trophy from the Sitka Seafood festival’s bobbing for fish heads contest. James Brooks | Capital City Weekly 42

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

A whalewatching boat passes in front of Sitka’s iconic volcano, Mount Edgecumbe, during the 2013 Sitka Whalefest. Tim Shobe | Sitka Whalefest photo

• The Sitka Seafood Festival is the first week in August and attracts chefs from across Alaska to prepare some of Southeast Alaska’s best seafood. Events typically include a seafood walk, salmon tours, parade, marketplace, seminar lectures, music and a beer tasting. One popular event among kids is the bobbing for fish heads. For details, visit www.sitkaseafoodfestival.org. • Simultaneous with the seafood festival is the Sitka Highland Games, which include Scottish/Irish/Welsh/English feats of strength by both men and women. Kilts are required (loaners are available. • The Mudball Classic softball tourna-

ment is a Labor Day weekend tournament that attracts teams from across the nation. • In October, Alaska Day is celebrated with a week of events including a grand parade, costume contest, gala ball, Coast Guard rescue demonstration and the official recreation of the handover of Alaska from Russia to the United States. Sitka is accessible by air on Alaska Airlines and Alaska Seaplanes, or by sea on the Alaska Marine Highway System. Lodging and other visitor accommodations are easily accessible. For a complete listing, consult the Sitka Convention and Visitors Bureau at www.sitka.org.

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

SKAGWAY

Skagway is known as the “Garden City” of Alaska, and with its blooming flowers in summer, it’s hard to argue with that. James Brooks | Capital City Weekly

kagway is nicknamed Alaska’s “Garden City,” but it’s best known as the port that sent thousands of goldseeking stampeders north to the Klondike. Today, it welcomes hundreds of thousands of sight-seeking visitors, most of whom arrive on cruise ships. Skagway has fewer than 1,000 year-round residents, but almost 1 million tourists visit the town at the northernmost end of Lynn Canal each year. Skagway was originally known by the Tlingits as Skagua, meaning “windy place.” It was used by the Chilkoots and Chilkats for hunting and fishing until 1896, when gold was discovered 600 miles away in the Yukon. Skagway acted as the starting point for 44

prospectors, who muscled out most of the Native population. In 1897, a post office, a church, and a newspaper were founded in Skagway, and its population rose to 10,000. In 1900, Skagway became the first incorporated city in Alaska, beating Juneau by one day. The Bank of Alaska opened in Skagway in 1916, and the first tourism boom began in the mid-1920s. During World War II, Skagway was home as many as 3,000 troops constructing the Alaska Highway. There was a major flood of the Skagway River in 1967 that breached area dikes. The Klondike Highway to Whitehorse and the Yukon opened in 1979. Most visitors who come to Skagway are interested in the town’s history as a Gold Rush settlement, but the town also hosts a raft of in-

2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

teresting events each year: • The Buckwheat Ski Classic takes place in March and is a Mecca for Nordic (cross-country) skiers in Alaska and the Yukon. • The sixth annual NorthWords Writers Symposium will take place in May. Attendees will enjoy three days of discussions, readings and writing alongside nationally known and Alaska authors. • The Fran Delisle Cancer Awareness Walk in June follows the Dyea Road along Taiya Inlet to raise money for cancer screenings and help Skagway residents diagnosed with cancer. • The Skagway Marathon, known as one of the world’s most difficult, takes place in midJune. For details or to register, visit www.skagwaymarathon.org. • The Elks summer solstice party is June 21 at the ball fields and includes food, a beer garden and games. • The 11th annual Pat Moore Memorial Game Fish Derby, sponsored by the Taiya Inlet Watershed Council, takes place at the end of June. The derby is the watershed council’s main annual fundraiser and brings in funding for projects to educate the public and clean local watersheds. • Skagway’s annual Independence Day celebration, which runs July 3-4, includes fireworks and a street dance on July 3. A parade, street fair and rubber ducky race take place July 4. Also on July 4 are the opening ceremonies for the Skagway International Softball Tournament. • The 110-mile Klondike International Road Relay between Skagway and Whitehorse is in September. Teams of 10 members com-

pete in a timed race that attracts runners from around the world. For details, visit http://sportyukon.com. Skagway is accessible on the Alaska Marine Highway, which operates daily ferries between Skagway and Juneau. The Klondike Highway leaves Skagway to the north, and air services including Wings of Alaska and Alaska Seaplanes offer direct service between Skagway and Juneau. Private fast ferries offer regular service between Skagway and Haines, and some offer passenger-only service between Juneau and Skagway.

134 N. Franklin Street |Juneau, Alaska 99801 (907)586-6780 Hours: Monday-Friday 9:30 am - 5:30 pm Saturday 9:30 am - 5:00 pm Sunday 12 - 5 pm (Summer)

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TENAKEE SPRINGS

The Tenakee Springs waterfront is seen in 2010. Capital City Weekly file photo

ocated on Chichagof Island, Tenakee Springs (also called just Tenakee) is a town with Tlingit roots that is known for its hot springs and its lack of cars — residents use ATVs, bikes and their feet to get around. Though it has only about 140 year-round residents, this town 45 miles southwest of Juneau swells in the summer with seasonal workers and visitors. The word Tenakee is from the Tlingit word “tinaghu,” meaning “Coppery Shield Bay.” This refers to three copper shields, highly prized by the Tlingits, that were lost overboard in a storm. Early prospectors and fishermen came to the site to wait out the winters and enjoy the natural hot springs. Around 1895, a large tub 46

and building were constructed to provide a warm bathing place for the increasing number of visitors. In 1899, Ed Snyder established Snyder’s Mercantile, which still stands today. A post office opened in 1903. Improvements to the hot springs facilities were made in 1915 and 1929; the existing bathhouse was constructed in 1940. Three canneries operated in the area between 1916 and 1974, and a logging camp operated for a time at Corner Bay. The city incorporated in 1971. Tenakee has a small museum and several historic early 20th century buildings. One of the biggest events of the summer is the town’s Fourth of July celebration. Past events have included a community potluck and traditional games.

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THORNE BAY

horne Bay is one of 14 small communities on Prince of Wales Island. Located on the eastern shore of the island, it is 38 air miles northwest of Ketchikan, 59 road miles from the ferry terminal at Hollis and 36 road miles from Klawock. Thorne Bay was named after Frank Manley Thorn, superintendent of the U.S. Coast & Geodetic Survey from 1885 to 1889. (The name was misspelled when published.) Thorne Bay evolved from a companyowned logging camp to an incorporated city in 1982, partly due to the land selection program provided for in the Alaska Statehood Act. Thorne Bay is the access point for the popular Forest Service-maintained Balls Lake, Grav-

elly Creek and Sandy Beach picnic areas and the Eagle’s Nest Campground. Visitors entering town on the road system will pass a unique welcome sign held by “the claw,” one of the world’s largest log-handling grapples, now retired. One of the biggest events of the summer is the Thorne Bay Days Festival held in the first week of August by the city of Thorne Bay. Thorne Bay is accessible on the Prince of Wales Road system or by floatplane from Ketchikan. Lodging is available from several bed and breakfasts. For a listing, visit www.thornebayalaska.net.

WHALE PASS

hale Pass is a community of 39 people on the northeast Coast of Prince of Wales Island, about 64 road miles north of Klawock. The community’s unique name comes from its site on a bay in Whale Passage, named by a U.S. Navy commander in the 1880s for the orcas and humpbacked whales commonly seen in the pass — a 10-mile strait between Thorne Island and Prince of Wales Island. The area has been the site of logging camps continuously since 1964. Ancient Native fish traps have been excavated from area streams, and petroglyphs etched

on rocks indicate the area’s prehistory. Neck Lake’s waterfalls offer a scenic panorama, while Cavern Lake drains into a cave and reappears hundreds of feet away in a series of stair-step waterfalls. Whale Pass will celebrate Fourth of July with a barbecue at the town church. The town can be reached via the Prince of Wales road system, but be cautious, as the road is unpaved and can be treacherous. Floatplane service is available from Ketchikan. Lodging is available via cabin rentals. Other visitor services are available at the town gas station, and Internet is available at the library.

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WRANGELL

ou might call Wrangell the city everyone wanted. In its history, its site 155 miles south of Juneau and 89 miles northwest of Ketchikan has been governed by four different groups: the Tlingit, Russian Empire, British Empire and the United States. In 1868, a U.S. military post called Fort Wrangell was established and named after the island. The community continued to grow as a setting-out point for gold prospectors, especially in 1861, 1874-77, and 1897. Riotous activity filled gambling halls, dance halls, and the streets. Thousands of miners traveled up the Stikine River into the Cassiar District of British Columbia during 1874 and to the Klondike in 1897. Glacier Packing Co. began operating in Wrangell in 1889. The Wilson & Sylvester Sawmill provided packing boxes for canneries and lumber for construction. The city was 48

incorporated in 1903. By 1916, fishing and forest products had become the primary industries — four canneries and a cold storage plant were constructed by the late 1920s. In the 1930s, cold packing of crab and shrimp were big business. The Alaska Pulp sawmill, Wrangell’s largest employer, closed in late 1994 but reopened on a smaller scale in 1998 as Silver Bay Logging. Wrangell is today a cruise ship port of call and hosts thousands of visitors each year. • The Wrangell King Salmon Derby runs through May and June. The top prize for the biggest king salmon was $6,000 in 2014, and there were over $30,000 worth of total prizes for the competition sponsored by the Wrangell Chamber of Commerce. • The XtraTuf Mudder Obstacle Course in May encourages participants to race through a diabolical obstacle course. • The July 4th Celebration includes kids

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Wrangell is seen from Mount Dewey on July 24, 2014. James Brooks | Capital City Weekly

races of all kinds, Highway SysHARBOR INFORMATION a scrap fish derby, tem. The town Rates: $0.40 per foot, per day (prepaid); sporting events, has several bed $0.80 per foot, per day (postpaid) talent shows, a and breakfasts Utilities: Potable water available at no tall tale compeand offers varicost. 30-amp power is $8/day; 50-amp tition, golf tourous other lodgpower is $10/day naments, food ing options. booths, a parade A can’t miss Fuel: Fuel is available from Petro Marine and Delta Western and a fireworks hike is Mount extravaganza. Dewey, conveServices: Harbor-run restrooms at all three • Bearfest, niently located Wrangell harbors. Laundromat and showwhich takes in town. John ers available at Reliance Harbor. Internet place in late July, Muir famously available at Wrangell Public Library. celebrates the camped atop the region’s brown mountain in the bears with a bear 19th century. symposium, marathon, wildlife storytellers, Trips up the Unuk River on jet boats are street games, live music and more. For a full popular among visitors, and a trip to the list of events, visit www.alaskabearfest.org. Anan Bear Observatory is a must-see when Wrangell is served by Alaska Airlines with the salmon runs attract scores of black and daily jet service, and by the Alaska Marine brown bears during Bearfest. 2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

YAKUTAT

akutat, a community of 622 people, is the most northerly town in Southeast Alaska and one of the oldest permanent settlements in Alaska. Isolated among lowlands along the Gulf of Alaska, it is 225 miles northwest of Juneau and 220 miles southeast of Cordova. It is at the mouth of Yakutat Bay, one of the few refuges for vessels along this stretch of coast. Yakutat means “the place where the canoes rest.” In the 18th and 19th centuries, English, French, Spanish and Russian explorers came to the region. Fur traders were attracted to the region’s sea otters, and the Russian-American Company built a fort in Yakutat in 1805 to harvest sea otter pelts. In recent years, Yakutat has become famous among surfers seeking an extreme destination. Wide, open beaches near Yakutat collect waves that roll north from the open Pacific Ocean during winter, creating perfect 50

— albeit cold — conditions for surfing. Hubbard Glacier, the longest tidewater glacier in the world, is 30 miles away and accessible by tour boat or plane. The eightmile-wide glacier is the most active in Alaska, frequently advancing and retreating. Twelve public-use cabins nearby offer places for fishermen, hunters and sightseers to spend their time. One of Yakutat’s biggest events each year is the Yakutat Tern Festival, which takes place the first week in June. Birdwatchers from around the world flock to Yakutat to get a glimpse of birds migrating from the Lower 48 back to Alaska for the summer. The festival is filled with birdwatching, bird-banding and lectures about birds. The Mt. St. Elias Dancers will perform, and there are activities for youths as well. For full details, visit www.yakutatternfestival.org. Yakutat celebrates the Fourth of July with

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A beach near Yakutat is seen in June 2011. National Park Service

a community payakutatfairweatHARBOR INFORMATION rade, picnic and herday.com. Rates: $0.45 per foot, per day other events simYakutat is the Utilities: Potable water available at no ilar to those seen most isolated cost. Few 30-amp power plugins available across Southeast community in at 55 cents per kilowatt/hour. Alaska. Southeast AlasThe town’s ka, but it can Fuel: Fuel is available from the Ocean second signature be reached on Cape cannery dock. event, after the Alaska Airlines Services: No showers, bathroom or launTern Festival, is or (in summer) dromat are available at the harbor. Various Fairweather Day, on the Alaska bars and restaurants offer Internet access. now entering its Marine Highway Several stores offer food and supplies shop39th annual ediSystem. ping. Haulout and covered maintenance space is available. tion. Lodging This daylong is available at celebration takes Mooring Lodge, place in early Leonard’s LandAugust and includes a beach carnival, food, ing Lodge and the Glacier Bear Lodge. fun run, fireworks and other events. Past Other guest accommodations are available. Fairweather Day celebrations have included Visit the Yakutat Chamber of Commerce at visiting musical acts. For details, visit www. http://yakutatalaska.com for details. 2015 Southeast Alaska Navigator • www.capitalcityweekly.com

BUSINESS DIRECTORY Adventuring into the outdoors isn’t just an option in Southeast Alaska, it’s a necessary and significant part of every Juneauite’s lifestyle! Experiencing the magnificent beauty of this place can take us anywhere from hiking in our backyard to ice climbing in the Juneau Icefield, from backcountry skiing Sheep Mountain to kayaking in Glacier Bay. At Foggy Mountain Shop, we’re passionate about the outdoors and about getting you outfitted for your adventures, no matter how grand or small. Having opened in January 1974, Foggy Mountain Shop was the first full-service backpacking, mountaineering, and Nordic ski shop in Southeast Alaska. With a recent internal transition of ownership, we are proud and excited to continue that tradition of upholding excellence in products and personalized customer service 40 years later. From the highest quality, most breathable outerwear available on the market today to the lightest weight packs and most trusted climbing gear, we’ve literally got you and your outdoor needs covered. At Foggy Mountain Shop, we understand the importance of walking our talk when it comes to providing great service to our community, and lucky for us, living here gives us constant opportunities to test our gear. When we’re not at work, we’re outside playing, come rain, sleet, snow or sun. Come in and ask our staff what has worked for them, and find gear that’s specifically made to handle the harsh conditions of this gorgeous place we call home.

Hot Tamales • Great Salsa & Chips Fantastic Hamburgers • Super Burritos Super Tacos Juneau Empire Reader’s Choice Winner 2013: Best Mexican Restaurant in Juneau 586-6770 ElSombreroJuneau.com 157 South Franklin Street, Juneau, AK 99801 52

The Sitka Sound Science Center is dedicated to increasing understanding and awareness of terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems of the gulf of Alaska through education and research. Our vision is to build on Sitka’s legacy and potential as an educational and scientific community. Our neighbors are magnificent humpback whales, harbor seals, seller sea lions and otter populations! Visiting Hours: Tuesday &Thursday: 9am – 4pm Saturday: 10-3pm Learn more at: www.sitkascience.org 834 Lincoln Street #200 Sitka, AK 9836. (907)747-8878

Rain forest setting, secluded and convenient, casually elegant – the perfect spot to base your Alaska experience. Alaska’s only AAA 4 Diamond accommodations. Relax in a hot tub, paddle around the pond, ride a bike to the glacier – Pearson’s Pond is here to help you make your trip the best it can be. Complimentary trip planning. Wedding, honeymoon and adventure packages available. www.pearsonspond.com contact@pearsonspond.com (907) 789-3772

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY

Locally-owned First Bank has served Southeast Alaska for more than 90 years, with branches in Juneau, Sitka, Ketchikan, Wrangell, Petersburg and Prince of Wales. We know our Southeast communities, our neighbors, and your needs. We say “community first” because we live here, work here and play here. Whether you’re a visitor or next-door-neighbor, we’re committed to providing competitively priced local products, and superior customer service.

Blue Heron B&B at Glacier Bay is ranked #1. Located on 10 acres of wildflowers with mountain views and wildlife habitat and eagle’s nest in full view. Central location,easy access to dock/airpt, restaurants, Salmon River, golf and Natl Park. Beautiful room/cottages with queen beds, private bathrooms, tv/dvds, top quality linens. Ak library, dvds, wifi, free bikes. Experienced trip planners with no additional surcharges. A must stay!

www.blueheronbnb.net

FIRST BANK

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U-Haul

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Repair your household appliances and help save our environment.

907-523-1090 We carry a full warehouse of boxes and moving supplies. We also have U-Boxes ready to be delivered to your front door, you fill it, we pick it up and ship it to your destination.

Remember to have your dryer delinted annually to prevent fires.

Juneau Car Rental Company

Locally owned & operated! We carry a full line of auto & marine parts & ship throughout S.E. Alaska.

Locally owned and operated used car rental company that provides free pickup and delivery at all marinas, hotels, ferry terminal, airport. Open 7 days a week from 8am to 5pm. We have a large assortment of vehicles to suit any need from compact cars to trucks and 15 passenger vans. We have the friendliest and most knowlegeable staff in the area.

Call us at 1-800-478-4134 or email us at: napavalley@acsalaska.net

Call for reservations at 907-789-0951 or 907-957-7530

Glacier Auto Parts NAPA Juneau

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY

The Triangle Club has been a bar in Historic downtown Juneau since the 30’s. In 1947 the Joe Thomas, Sr. purchased the bar. In 2000, Leeann Thomas, the third generation, bought the Triangle from her father, Joe Jr. Leeann, along with her accommodating staff, has perpetuated the Triangle’s tradition by offering a warm and friendly atmosphere for all patrons. The Triangle’s diverse clientele always provides interesting conversations, making it an inviting “watering hole” to exchange tall tales and solve the world’s problems. Equally entertaining from the Triangle’s vantage point is the “people traffic “on Front and Franklin.

Rice Bowls

Fusion Plates

Burriots • Tacos

• Tacos Nachos •Burritos Soups • Salads Fusion Plates • Rice Bowls Nachos • Soups •Salads “Voted Alaska’s “Voted Alaska’s #1 Restaurant - 2014” #1 RestaurantCall for Take-out 2014” Winter open Tues-Sun • Summer open 7 days 11:00am - 9:00pm 586-6870

Call for 222 Take-out Seward Street, Juneau, AK 99801 Open 7 Days Weekly - 11:00am - 9:00pm

586-6870 222 Seward Street Exceeding Excellence Every Day

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At Latitude 58, your complete satisfaction is our number 1 goal. We pride ourselves on our thorough knowledge of the Juneau real estate market. Our business is locally owned and operated by Holly Cerne and Sunshine Hard. Our team of real estate professionals is known for integrity, experience, knowledge, effective marketing methods, and a reputation for getting results. Check our website daily for new listings at www.homesinjuneau.com and follow us on Facebook for our new listings and useful information for homebuyers and sellers. 907-789-5858 3000 Vintage Blvd Ste 260, Juneau, AK 99801

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TRANSPORTATION INDEX

Small planes like this one, seen in March 2014 in Haines, are the fastest way to reach most James Brooks | Capital City Weekly small Southeast communities.

Getting to many of the communities in this guide can be half the fun of travel, but youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re probably going to have to leave your car behind. Only Haines and Skagway have road connections to the Alaska and Lower 48 road network, though the Alaska Marine Highway will take you farther when the road stops. At ferryalaska.com, you can see a complete schedule for the Marine Highway, which stops in Haines, Skagway, Pelican, Gustavus, Juneau, Hoonah, Metlakatla, Tenakee, Angoon, Sitka, Kake, Petersburg, Coffman Cove and Yakutat. In southern Southeast Alaska, the InterIsland Ferry Authority (http://www.interislandferry.com/) travels between Hollis and

Ketchikan daily. From Hollis, visitors with cars can use the Prince of Wales Island road network. Air travel remains the fastest way to travel in Southeast, though it can be expensive. Alaska Airlines offers daily flights to Juneau, Sitka, Petersburg, Gustavus, Wrangell and Ketchikan. In northern Southeast, Alaska Seaplanes and Wings offer regular scheduled service between Juneau and most smaller communities. In southern Southeast, Island Air Express is the largest air service offering scheduled service. Taquan Air also offers scheduled service to many smaller communities. Remember: Travel is weather-dependent!

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flOatPlaNes & WheelPlaNes

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