Southeast Alaska Navigator 2017

THE LOCALS’ GUIDE TO SOUTHEAST ALASKA

FREE

PUBLICATION OF CAPITAL CITY WEEKLY

2017

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Welcome

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Photo by Libby Stringer

“wet, immense, timbered, mountainous, cold, exhilarating, challenging.”

— Jack Kerouac’s description of the Northwest

he bays, inlets and fjords of Southeast Alaska have been paddled by the Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian people since time immemorial. They’ve been sailed into by the Russians, steamed through by Gold Rush stampeders, and powered through by fishermen and cruise ships. They support herring and humpback whales, salmon sharks and salmon — and the lifestyles of Southeast Alaskans, tied inextricably to the waterways that surround us.

Whether you’re paddling a dugout canoe you helped steam open, fishing, kayaking Glacier Bay, or just gazing at the water from shore, wherever you are in Southeast Alaska, you’re never far from water and you’re never far from something spectacular. Our goal with Southeast Navigator is to help provide you with the resources and information you need to get out there and enjoy Southeast Alaska this year.

There really is no other place like it.

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Destinations

Angoon...........................................6 Elfin Cove........................................8 Gustavus .......................................10 Haines..........................................13 Hoonah.........................................16 Juneau.........................................18 Kake ...........................................24 Ketchikan.......................................26 Metlakatla.......................................30 Pelican..........................................32 Petersburg......................................34 Prince of Wales Island...........................36 Sitka............................................40 Skagway........................................43 Tenakee Springs.................................45 Wrangell........................................46 Yakutat..........................................49 Business Directory..............................52

Photo by Michael Penn A bald eagle launches from its perch on Douglas Island against a backdrop of the Mendenhall Glacier.

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Publisher: Rustan Burton Managing Editor: Mary Catharine Martin Design: Matthew Wilkinson, James Kelly, Randi Spray Marketing: Romona Wigg, Kathryn Nickerson, Hadassah Nelson & Shandra Comas Cover Photo: Michael Penn Inside photos: Michael Penn, Mary Catharine Martin, Libby Stringer, Katie Spielberger, James Brooks, Randi Spray.

Sources for the population data and place names listed for each community include the Alaska Department of Commerce, Community and Economic Development, “Haa Léelk’w Has Aaní Saax’u: Our Grandparents’ Names on the Land” by Thomas Thornton and Harold Martin, and The Native Heritage Project.

Capital City Weekly 3100 Channel Drive • Juneau, AK, 99801 (907) 789-4144 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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MAP

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Southeast Alaskan communities

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1. ANGOON 2. BARANOF WARM SPRINGS 3. COFFMAN COVE 4. CRAIG 5. EDNA BAY 6. ELFIN COVE 7. EXCURSION INLET 8. GUSTAVUS 9. HAINES 10. HOLLIS 11. HOONAH 12. HYDABURG 13. HYDER 14. JUNEAU 15. KAKE 16. KASAAN 17. KETCHIKAN 18. KLAWOCK 19. klukwan 20. METLAKATLA 22. NAUKATI BAY 23. PELICAN 24. PETERSBURG 25. POINT BAKER 26. PORT ALEXANDER 27. PORT PROTECTION 28. SAXMAN 29. SITKA 30. SKAGWAY 31. TENAKEE SPRINGS 32. THORNE BAY 33. WHALE PASS 34. WRANGELL 35. YAKUTAT

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Angoon

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Photo by Mary Catharine Martin Angoon in winter.

Angoon, a Tlingit village of 459 residents, is located on the southwest coast of Admiralty Island.

The community’s name comes from the Tlingit word Aangoon, meaning “isthmus town.” a reference to its location on a narrow peninsula that separates Chatham Strait from Kootznahoo Inlet.

The Tlingit name for the island is Xu’t’snuwu, meaning “fortress of the bears.”

More than 90 percent of the island is a federally designated wilderness.

Pack Creek, a popular bear viewing area, is located in the northeast corner of Admiralty Island. The area is managed by the US Forest Service and the Alaska Dept. of Fish & Game. A permit is required for visitors between June 1 and September 10.

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ANGOON Population: 459, 10% white, 76% Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Tlingit, Angoon Community Association) Name: From the Tlingit word Aangoon, meaning “isthmus town.”

Road access: No

Angoon is also a common departure point for kayak and canoe trips, notably the Cross Island Canoe route, which connects Angoon on the island’s west side with Mole Harbor on the Seymour Canal, an area known for its high density of nesting bald eagles.

The island is also the location of Greens 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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Angoon Creek Mine, which has been producing gold, silver, zinc and lead since 1989.

Getting there BY WATER

Angoon receives ferry service from Juneau twice a week in the winter and summer. It’s a seven to eight hour ferry ride from Juneau, four from Hoonah, two hours and fifteen minutes from Tenakee Springs, and three hours from Sitka on the fast ferry. The ferry dock is three miles from town.

Angoon also operates a small boat harbor.

Water and power are free for paying transient boats, and fuel is available at a dock next to the harbor.

Getting there BY AIR

Alaska

Seaplanes

operates

three daily scheduled flights to Angoon in the summer and two a day in the winter.

Angoon can also be reached via Harris Air and by charter floatplane. The seaplane base is located about a mile from town.

Information Sources

City of Angoon: (907) 7883653, https://www.facebook. com/ CityOfAngoon/ Unseen Alaska: http://unseenalaska.com/ angoon/ Kootznowoo, Inc.: (907) 790-2992, www. kootznoowoo.com Tongass National Forest: www.fs.usda.gov/ tongass/ Seatrails: www.seatrails.org/com_angoon

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Photo by Mary Catharine Martin A winter sunset in Angoon as seen from the beach in front of the elementary school.

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Photo by Marlena Sloss A mother bear and cub at Pack Creek, Admiralty Island. www.capitalcityweekly.com

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ELFIN COVE

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Photo by Mary Catharine Martin A view of Elfin Cove as seen from a mountain above it.

Elfin Cove is located on the northwest corner of Chichagof Island on Cross Sound, across the water from Brady Glacier and the Fairweather Range.

Its population is less than 25 year-round residents, but it’s a busy place beginning in May, when fishermen from points near and far arrive to check out the fish-rich waters.

There are no roads here, just a boardwalk, as in Pelican. Services include a general store, bar and grill, a post office and a full service fuel dock.

Getting there By Sea

There is no Alaska Marine Highway ferry service to Elfin Cove but visitors can take the ferry to 8

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ELFIN COVE Population: 20, 70% white, 5% Alaska Native, 25% mixed ancestry.

Name: Ernie and Ruth Swanson built a store, restaurant. and dock here in the 1920s and named it Elfin Cove when they established a post office in 1935.

Road access: No

nearby Pelican and arrange a skiff ride from there.

The small boat harbor, owned by the state, has moorage for 25 boats. Amenities include laundry and showers.

Getting there By air

Alaska

Seaplanes

offers

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ELFIN COVE three flights daily to Elfin Cove in the summer months, and one flight per day in the winter. Charter service is also available.

Information sources

Visitor information: http:// unseenalaska.com/elfin-cove/ • http://www.seconference.org/

elfin-cove Community Facebook page: https:// www.facebook.com/Elfincove

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Photo by Mary Catharine Martin A view of the Brady Glacier, which is visible when leaving Elfin Cove.

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Gustavus

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C gu (9 Photo by Mary Catharine Martin Hoonah students welcome canoes to Xunaa Shuká Hít, the Huna tribal house in Bartlett Cove, Glacier Bay, in August 2016. The community of Gustavus came out to welcome the Huna Tlingit back to their ancestral homeland.

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Gustavus is on Icy Strait, on the mainland. The hub of commercial life in Gustavus Population: pop. 442, 91% white, is Four Corners, where visitors will find Clove 3% Alaska Native.

Hitch Cafe, Sunnyside Market and Fireweed Name: Believed to have been named in Gallery Coffee and Tea House.

1878 by W.H. Dall, who mistakenly thought Unlike other Southeast communities, nearby Point Adolphus (named by George Gustavus is relatively flat, making it a great Vancouver in 1793 for Adolphus Frederick, son of King George III) had been named for place to explore by bike. A few years ago it Swedish king Gustavus Adolphus, and so celebrated its centennial with quirky, commufollowed suit. Also known as Strawberry nity-oriented, Alaskan activities like a beard Point. contest, a chainsaw toss, and log rolling. The Road access: No town’s first three homesteading couples arrived in 1914.

Gustavus is well known as the gateway community to Glacier Bay National Park, a 65-mile-long fjord best explored by water. Glacier Bay was declared a National Monument in 1925 by President Calvin Coolidge and became a National Park in 1980 with the passage of the Alaska National Interest Lands Conserva-

GUSTAVUS

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Gustavus tion Act. Visitors can book day trips or explore by kayak from Bartlett Cove, located within the park 9 miles from town.

Getting there BY WATER

Gustavus receives Alaska Marine Highway ferry service two to four days a week in the summer, and two days a week in the winter. The trip is four and a half hours from Juneau.

Private boats wishing to dock in Bartlett Cove need a permit between June 1 and August 31 through the National Park Service (907-697-2268). Acccess is limited.

The Gustavus Dock is also open to private boaters and Salmon River has a small boat harbor and ramp for launching private craft.

Getting there BY AIR

round-trips from Juneau in the summer.

Alaska Seaplanes offers six roundtrip flights daily to Gustavus in the summer and three per day in the winter. Fjord Flying Service and Harris Air also serve Gustavus.

Air charters can also be arranged for dropoff/pick up to more remote locations in the area.

Float planes land at Bartlett Cove, inside the park, which is connected to the airport via local road.

Information Sources

Gustavus Visitors Association: http://www.gustavusak.com/ National Park Service: http:// www.nps.gov/glba/index.htm Seatrails: http://www.seatrails.org/com_ gustavus/index.htm

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Photo by Mary Catharine Martin A view of Gustavus’ Salmon River as seen from the bridge.

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Glacier Bay

Ancestral Homeland: Glacier Bay

For the past 100 years, the Huna Tlingit were unable to return to their ancestral homeland of Glacier Bay. The next 100 years will be very different.

On Aug. 25, 2016, the exact 100-year anniversary of the National Park Service, Huna Tlingit from across Southeast Alaska, along with the National Park Service, friends, relatives, supporters, the Hoonah Indian Association, and Gustavus residents and visitors arrived in Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve for the dedication of Xunaa Shuká Hít — the Huna Tribal House. Hundreds of people attended; more than 100 of them were National Park Service employees alone, estimated Chief of Interpretation Tom VandenBerg, and hundreds were Huna Tlingit.

“It’s quite a production pulling this off,” VandenBerg said.

The Huna Tlingit were forced to flee Glacier Bay several centuries ago by the advance of a glacier, but they had always planned to return to their homeland. Many of them settled in Hoonah. When the bay was made into a national park, however, they were forbidden from returning.

Xunaa Shuká Hít is a building representing all four of Glacier Bay’s original clans — the Chookaneidí, the Kaagwaantaan, the Wooshkeetaan and the T’akdeintaan — which now have a place of their own in their homeland.

The day of the building’s dedication began when about two dozen people who paddled from Hoonah to Glacier Bay in freshly carved dugout canoes arrived through the mist of Bartlett Cove and were greeted by hundreds gathered on shore.

A good portion of those greeters were Hoonah schoolchildren. Students Leah Moss and Teddy Elliot greeted the canoes in Tlingit.

“Our people left this land with heavy hearts and tears in their eyes, and now we’re here… to bring joy to the land of our ancestors,” said paddler and Wooshkeetan clan leader Dennis Gray as he addressed the waiting crowd. “It took many years … we made it happen by … pulling together. Woosh.ji.een.” (Woosh.ji.een means “pulling together.”)

After a representative of each canoe spoke, the paddlers landed and danced onto the shore, carried one of the canoes closer to the tribal house, and the dedication began.

Read the full story of the return at http://www.capitalcityweekly.com/ stories/083116/ae_1270146418.shtml 12

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Haines

Photo by James Brooks Haines from the air.

Haines is located on the northern end of Lynn Canal on the mainland and is accessible by road. This community, like many in Southeast, is known for both its outdoor activities (its slogan is “The Adventure Capital of Alaska”) and its arts community. In the winter, it is a popular destination for heliskiiers and snowboarders.

Good times to visit include May, the town hosts its popular beer festival, known locally as Brewfest; in late July, for the Southeast Alaska State Fair; and in November, for the Alaska Bald Eagle Festival, which celebrates the arrival of thousands of migrating eagles to the Chilkat River Valley.

The Tlingit village of Klukwan is about 20 miles north of Haines and is accessible by car via the Haines Highway.

HAINES Population: pop. 1,713 (2,508 in borough) 81 % white. 11 % Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Tlingit. Chilkoot Indian Association).

Name: Named for Francina Haines, secretary of the Presbyterian National Committee of Home Missions, which established a mission here in 1881. The original Tlingit name for the area is Deishu, meaning “end of the trail.”

Road access: Yes

KLUKWAN Population: 95, 8% white, 80% Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Tlingit, Chilkat Indian Village) Name: From the Tlingit word Tlakw.aan, meaning “eternal village.”

Haines continued on page 14

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Haines Getting there By Sea

Haines receives Alaska Marine Highway ferry service seven days a week in the summer, and four to five days a week in the winter. The trip to Juneau is four and a half hours one way. The ferry terminal is located four miles out of town at 2112 Lutak Road.

The Haines-Skagway Fast Ferry offers multiple trips to neighboring Skagway in the summer. The trip is 45 minutes one way from the Port Chilkoot dock, less than a half mile from downtown.

Haines is also serviced by Haines-based Alaska Fjordlines, which offers seasonal daytours to Juneau (arriving at Yankee Cove, where passengers catch a bus to town).

Haines has two small boat harbors, at Portage Cove and Lutak Inlet. The Harbormaster’s office is at 22 Beach Road, Portage Cove.

River Valley to Haines Junction, Canada, and then to Whitehorse, Carcross and Skagway via the White Pass.

Travelers can access the Alaska Highway via the Haines Highway, designated a National Scenic Byway, connecting at Haines Junction, Canada. The Haines Highway is paved and open year round. It takes about 3.5 hours to reach Haines Junction.

Information sources

Visitor’s information: http:// www.haines.ak.us/ Harbor information: http:// www.hainesalaska.gov/ports

Getting there by Air

Juneau-based Alaska Seaplanes offers up to seven scheduled wheel plane flights per day to Haines in the summer and three per day in the winter. Harris Air and Fjord Flying Service also go to Haines. The Haines airport is three miles from town on the Haines Highway.

Getting there by Road

Haines’ nearest Southeast neighbor is Skagway, which is 350 miles away by car via the Golden Circle. It begins on the Haines Highway, and passes through the Chilkat 14

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Photo by Randi Spray The Jilkaat Kwaan Cultural Heritage and Bald Eagle Preserve Visitor Center’s opening was marked with ceremony and dancing in May 2016.

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Haines Local spotlight: Klukwan

he Jilkaat Kwaan Cultural Heritage and Bald Eagle Preserve Visitor Center opened on Saturday, May 14, marking the first time in recent history the fabled Whale House artworks have been on public display.

And since no photos are allowed within the gallery, you’re going to have to go see these much-lauded carvings chronicling Klukwan’s history for yourself.

“It’s like the Sistine Chapel,” said Steve Henrikson, curator of collections at the Alaska State Museum. “It’s just mind-blowing that such a thing even exists.”

The Whale House posts and screen have long inspired devotion and obsession in those who’ve seen them — or only photos of them. But that desire has also lead to some of the ugliest episodes in the Whale House and Klukwan’s history. As a consequence, they’ve been much out of the public eye for the last century.

The details seem basic enough. There is a wall screen and four corner posts. The Rain screen, or Seew X’eeh, is 11 feet tall by 16 wide and depicts a Raven with outstretched wings surrounded by a repeated crouching figure representing raindrops. It tells of the Gunaxteidi clan’s close ties to Raven and how, like raindrops, Raven’s actions touch everything.

To the left is the Woodworm post, Tlukwx Ass A Gass, which tells the story 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

of how the Ganaxteidi came to Klukwan from Prince of Wales Island. Across from it is the Black Skin post or Dukt’ootl Gass, also called the strong man post, representing the story of Tlingit hero Dukt’ootl, shown splitting a sea lion in half. To the right of the screen is the Raven post or Yeil-gass, representing the capture of T’a, the King Salmon.

The Sea Creature post or Gunakadeit Gass across from the Raven post represents an episode from the adventures of Raven and the sea creature Gunakadeit.

But it’s the artistry that makes the Whale House artifacts so coveted.

In the early 1800s, the Ganaxteidi were experiencing a period of great wealth.Their leader commissioned the Michelangelo of the day for a new clan house that would showcase that wealth.

This Michelangelo, the same who designed the interior corner posts of Chief Shakes’ house, was for a long time unnamed in history and much of his story remains unknown. His name was unearthed by a Juneau museum curator in 1987: Kadishdu. axtc.

Ironically, the name was preserved by one of the first men who made a concerted effort to remove Kadishdu.axtc’s art from Klukwan.

Read the full story by Randi Spray here: http://www.capitalcityweekly.com/ stories/051816/ae_1268483692.shtml www.capitalcityweekly.com

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Hoonah Photo by Mary Catharine Martin Carving apprentices rake fire-heated stones used to help steam open a dugout canoe.

Hoonah, located in Port Frederick, on the northeast corner of Chichagof Island, is the largest Tlingit village in Alaska.

Those who visit in the summer while a cruise ship is in port will want to check out Icy Strait Point, a former cannery that’s been turned into a high quality, locally operated visitor center owned by Huna Totem that includes the world’s longest zipline. Another good stop is the Icy Strait Brewing company, established in 2015 in downtown Hoonah.

Getting there BY Sea

Hoonah receives Alaska Marine Highway service for passengers and vehicles four times a week year-round. Travel time between Juneau and Hoonah is three hours and fifteen minutes.

Hoonah’s harbor facilities include the George Hall Harbor Facility (which has showers and laundry) and the Hoonah City Dock. Fuel is available at Hoonah Trading Company on the Ace Hardware Dock.

Hydraulic repair and boat storage are also available.

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HOONAH Population: 760, 33% white, 53% Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Tlingit, Hoonah Indian Association), 14% mixed ancestry.

Name: From Xunniyaa or Xunaa meaning “lee of the north wind” in Tlingit.

Road access: No

Getting there BY AIR

Alaska Seaplanes offers five daily round-trip flights between Juneau and Hoonah in the summer, and three in the winter. Flights are also available through Fjord Flying Services and Harris Air. Hoonah’s floatplane dock is located next to Hoonah Harbor, and the airport is about a mile from town out the main road.

Information sources

City: www.cityofhoonah.org/ Harbor: www.visithoonah.com/ harbor_facilities.htm 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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Hoonah Local spotlight: Hoonah

ommunity members and carvers stood near the canoe carving shelter Yaakw Kahidi, arranging large black, porous rocks beneath huge, burning logs. In front of them lay the dugout canoe four Haines carvers — lead carver Wayne Price, along with apprentices James Hart, Zack James, and son Steven Price — had been working on for months.

The night before, they’d paddled the canoe out on the water. Then they’d turned it over and sunk it, soaking it overnight. At six that morning, they’d pulled it out and hauled it to its space between Yaakw Kahidi and the Hoonah Indian Association building.

This day was the day the canoe would transform, expanding from around 37 inches at its widest point to, carvers hoped, between 66 and 72 inches.

It wasn’t without its challenges. During a few cold days over the winter, wind had hit the side of the canoe as they were

carving, and the canoe cracked along that side. They’d fixed those cracks with the wooden equivalent of butterfly bandages — figure-8 shaped pieces of wood which intersect the closed crack at its narrowest point, ensuring that when the canoe flexes outwards, the crack won’t open up.

At six in the morning, when they brought the canoe back on shore, there was “no shortage of manpower,” said Wooshkeetaan clan leader Dennis Gray Sr. “It’s amazing the interest it’s created within our community,” he said. “It’s pulling our community together. We’ve been a pretty divided community for the number of years. All the Hoonah kaawu (Hoonah people) — it’s so heartwarming to see all this happening.”

Read the full story by Mary Catharine Martin at http://www.capitalcityweekly. com/stories/041316/ae_1267986192. shtml Lead carver Wayne Price looks over the progress as he, apprentices and Hoonah community members, all of whom fasted, steam open a 40-foot spruce dugout canoe in spring 2016.

Photo by Mary Catharine Martin

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Juneau

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D w in fru vi th Photo by Michael Penn The Mendenhall Glacier can be seen over the tree-line Heintzleman Ridge with Stroller-White peak to the left and the Mendenhall Towers to the right.

JUNEAU

Population: 31,275, 70% white, 12% Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Tlingit. Central Council of the Tlingit and Haida Indian Tribes), 6% Asian.

Name: Named for Joe Juneau who, with Richard Harris, was guided to gold at Gold Creek by Chief Kowee of the Auk Tribe in 1880. The original name for the area is Dzantik’i Heeni, “flounder at the base of the creek.”

Road access: No

Auke Bay

Population: 5,206 Name: From the Tlingit Aak’w Ta “back of little lake (bay)”

Douglas

Population: 5,745.

Name: Named by Captain George Vancouver in 1794 after John Douglas, Bishop of Salisbury.

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Juneau is located on the mainland, along Gastineau Channel. It is the largest city in Southeast Alaska and the third largest in the state.

Juneau’s character varies depending on the season. In summer, the streets of downtown fill with tourists, many off cruise ships, but the city’s extensive trail system ensures that anyone looking for peace and quiet will have no trouble getting off the beaten path and into the surrounding wilderness. Basin Road, at the top of Gold Street, is within walking distance of downtown and provides access to trails including Mount Juneau, Mount Roberts, and peaks beyond.

When the state legislature is in session from January through April, lawmakers and lobbyists come to town. And during the quiet months of 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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Juneau October through December, Juneauites enjoy having the town to themselves and kick off an impressive array of arts and cultural offerings.

Arts centers include the newly opened Walter Soboleff Center, a regional hub for Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian arts and culture, and the State Library Archives and Museum building, scheduled to open in May as of this writing.

Gastineau Channel separates Juneau from Douglas Island, a community that at one time was home to the largest commercial gold mining operation in the world. Ruins of the once fruitful Treadwell Mine complex can still be visited today. Downtown Douglas is quiet; there you’ll find a diner, a pizza place, and an

ice rink. North Douglas is home to Eaglecrest Ski Area.

Auke Bay is located out past the Mendenhall Valley, about 12 miles from town.

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Getting There by sea

Juneau is served by several Alaska Marine Highway ferries.

From Juneau, passengers can travel as far south as Bellingham and as far north as Whittier.

The Docks and Harbors department operates several boat harbors for those traveling to Juneau on private vessels. The Don Statter Memorial Boat Harbor at Auke Bay is the

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Juneau

The Fourth of July is celebrated with much fanfare on Douglas Island, including with a soapbox derby.

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Juneau

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Juneau Photo by Michael Penn Tim Foster views an ice cave in the Mendenhall Glacier.

primary hub for fishermen and charter boats; a bit farther north along the same road is the Alaska Marine Highway dock. The city bus makes regular trips to Auke Bay but there is no public transportation to the ferry dock.

Downtown harbors include Harris Harbor and Aurora Harbor, and in Douglas, the Mike Pusich Douglas Harbor. Bathrooms are available in Auke Bay and Aurora Harbor, and showers are available at Auke Bay. Getting there by air

Alaska Airlines has multiple daily flights in and out of Juneau from Anchorage and Seattle.

Delta Airlines also services Juneau.

The Juneau International Airport, located in the Mendenhall Valley with bus and taxi service to downtown, provides direct service to Anchorage, Seattle and other Southeast communities.

A number of small air carriers offer transportation to outlying communities, including Alaska Seaplanes, Fjord Flying Service and Harris Air. Information sources

Juneau Convention and Visitors Bureau: (888) 581-2201, www.traveljuneau.com Juneau Arts and Humanities Council: www.jahc.org Juneau Chamber of Commerce: (907) 463-3488, www.juneauchamber.com Juneau Empire: www.juneauempire.com Harbormaster: (907) 586-5255, VHF Channel 16 22

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Juneau

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CAPITAL CITY WEEKLY IS SOUTHEAST ALASKA

IN MORE PLACES THAN ANY OTHER SOUTHEAST ALASKA NEWSPAPER ANGOON

Angoon Trading Angoon Health Center

The Hair Shop Visitors Center Wings of Alaska

CRAIG

HOONAH

A C Thompson House Annie Betty’s Bakery Cafe JS True Value NAPA Automotive Papa’s Pizza Shaub Ellison The Bread Box The Craig Public Library The Waffle House Tyler Rentals Whale Tale Pharmacy Zat’s Pizza

DOUGLAS

Breeze In Douglas Café Douglas Library ERA Helicopter Island Pub Mike Hatch Jeep SERRC (Cedar Park) Tanner Marine Service Center

EDNA BAY

Delivered to 27 Residents

ELFIN COVE

Delivered to 25 Residents

GUSTAVUS

Delivered to 240 Residents

HAINES

AK Sport Alaska Seaplanes Alaskan Liquor Alaska Marine Highway American Legion Big Foot Auto Canal Marine Captains Choice Chilkat Restaurant E & D / Radio Shack Eagles Nest Ferry Terminal Fogcutter Bar Haines Assisted Living Haines Quick Shop Haisler Hardware Halsingland Hotel Harbor Bar Home Builders Howsers Moose Laundry Pioneer Bar Tesoro Gas

Alaska Seaplanes Colette’s Cupboard Harbor Master Hoonah Cold Storage Hoonah Liquor Store Hoonah Medical Center Hoonah Senior Center Hoonah Trading Co. Huna Outfitters Icy Straight Lodge Misty Bar Lounge Office Bar Salvation Army Thrift Store Tideland Tackle

HAWK INLET

Delivered to 25 Residents

HYDER

Delivered to 145 Residents

JUNEAU

1st Bank - 2 locations Action Appliance Airport Mall Alaska Cache Liquor Alaskan Hotel Alaska Job Service Alaska Marine Highway ANB Hall Arctic Chiropractic Asianna Gardens Aspen Hotel Auke Bay Harbor Master Bartlett Regional Hospital Bergman Hotel Best Western - 2 locations Bill Ray Center Blue Jeans Café Breakwater Hotel Breeze In - 3 locations Bridge Adult Day Care Bullwinkle’s Pizza - 2 locations Cancer Center Care-A-Van CBJ Info Chamber of Commerce Chan’s Thai Kitchen Coldwell Banker Custom Cuts DeHart’s Denali Credit Union Don Abel Building Supplies Donna’s Restaurant Dragon Inn Driftwood

Duck Creek Market El Zarape Emporium Mall Exit Realty Extended Stay Hotel Family Health & Birth Center Family Health Care Family Practice Physicians Fireweed Senior Center Foodland IGA Foreign Auto Fred Meyer Frontier Suites Gas-N-Go Gastineau Humane Society GCI - 2 locations Glacier Pediatrics GonZo Gruening Park Admin. Off. Harri Plumbing & Heating Heritage Coffee - 6 locations Home Liquor & Deli Honda Hut Hot Bite J&J Deli Jordan Creek Center Juneau Assembly Building Juneau Arts & Humanities Juneau Bowling Center Juneau Courier Service Juneau Foot & Ankle Juneau Hotel Juneau Airport - in 4 locations Juneau Library Juneau Pizza Juneau Senior Center Juneau Urgent Care K-Plaza Canton House Kenny’s Liquor Lemon Creek Liquor Les Schaub Tires Little Hong Kong Marine View Bldg.

McDonalds McDowell Group Mendenhall Apartments Mendenhall Mall - in 3 locations Merchant’s Wharf Mi Casa Miner’s Mercantile Moose Lodge Nugget Mall Papa Murphy’s Petco Pioneer Home Powell Realty Prospector Hotel Rainbow Foods Rainy Day Books Rayco Sales

Re/Max Rejuvinations Reliable Transfer Safeway - in 2 locations Sandbar Grill Sandpiper Restaurant SEARCH Clinic Senate Building SERRC Shattuck and Grummet Silverbow Bagel Southeast Foot and Ankle Southeast Furniture Southeast Mining Supply St. Vincent de Paul State Farm - 3 locations Super Bear Swampy Acres Temsco Tesoro The Canvas The Rookery Cafe The Viking Tlingit Haida Bldg.

Tram Travelodge True North FCU - 3 locations Tyler Rental UAS Library UAS Mourant Building University Book Store Valley Lumber Valley Medical Valley Paint Valley Restaurant Washboard Laundry Western Auto Wildflower Court Wingnut Auto Salon Wings of Alaska World Wide Movers

Pioneer Home Plaza Mall Promech Air Red Anchor Café Safeway Food & Drug Taquan Air Tatsudas Grocery The Landing Tongass Federal Credit Union Tongass Substance Screening UAS - in 2 locations

KLAWOCK

Black Bear Klawock Market Klawock Liquor Store Island Air

METLAKATLA

Annette Island School District Metlakatla Community Council

PELICAN

Delivered to 125 Residents

PETERSBURG

Delivered to 220 Residents

Alaska Airlines Alaska Marine Highway Coastal Cold Storage Glacier Laundry Hammer & Wikan Hammers Hardware Hammers Marine Joan-Mei Petersburg Motors Rexall Drug Rockys Marine Scandia House SE Island Fuel Tides Inn Trading Union USFS Office Wings of Alaska

KETCHIKAN

POINT BAKER

KAKE

1st Bank - 3 locations Alaska Job Service Alaska Public Assistance Office Alaska & Proud Ketchikan Alaska Marine Highway Cape Fox Lodge Cape Fox Mall Community Connections Highliner Laundromat Ketchikan Indian Community Madison Lumber Newtown Liquor Pacific Airways Peacehealth Ketchikan Clinic

Delivered to 40 Residents

SITKA

Agave Restaurant CFC City Building Ernie’s Old Time Saloon Gary’s Outboard Repair Hair Loft Harrigan Centennial Hall Lakeside Mall Lyles Market Center McDonald’s Murry’s Pacific

NAPA Petro Marine Pioneer Bar Ready Mix Rentals SEARHC Sea Mart Sitka Airport Sitka Pioneer Home SMC Contractors Spenard Builders Subway Super 8 The Back Door Cafe Tongass Threads Totem Square Westmark

SKAGWAY

AB Hall Alaska Liquor Alaska Marine Highway Dahl Memorial Clinic Fairway Market Ferry Terminal Garden City Glacier Smoothies Library Mile Zero National Parks Service Petro Marine Sergeant Preston’s Lodge Services Unlimited Skagway Pizza Station Skagway Rec Center Sweet Tooth Westmark Whitehouse Wings of Alaska You Say Tomato

SNETTISHAM

Delivered to 10 Residents

TENAKEE Don Pegues

THORNE BAY

Thorne Bay Market

WRANGELL Bob’s IGA City Market Raymes Stikine Inn Zak’s Café

YAKUTAT

Delivered to 400 Residents

DISTRIBUTION MANAGER: JACK MARSHALL 907-523-2221 • jack.marshall@capweek.com ADVERTISING MANAGER: KATHRYN NICKERSON 907-523-2229 •kathryn.nickerson@juneauempire.com

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Kake

Photo by James Brooks Kake from the air.

Kake is located on the northwest coast of Kupreanof Island along Keku Strait. This predominantly Tlingit community offers visitors a sense of village life in Southeast Alaska, a lifestyle that embodies a blend of old ways and new.

A good time to come is during the Dog Salmon Festival, an annual event since 1995 that celebrates fish and friends.

Explorations of the surrounding area can include Kake’s 120 miles of logging roads, accessible by car, bike or on foot.

Getting there By sea

Kake receives Alaska Marine Highway service two times a week year-round, an eight hour cruise from Juneau and four hours from Petersburg. The ferry terminal is a quarter mile south of town.

Getting there by air

Alaska Seaplanes operates three scheduled roundtrip flights 24

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KAKE Population: 557, 17% white, 69% Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Tlingit, Organized Village of Kake).

Name: From Kheexh’ — a Tlingit word of uncertain origin, possibly onomatopoeic, referring to the sound of walking on the sand and gravel beach.

Road access: No

to Kake in the summer and one in the winter. Also serving Kake are Harris Air in Sitka, and Pacific Wings in Petersburg. Kake has a paved runway west of town, and a seaplane base at the city dock.

Information sources Unseen Alaska: http://unseenalaska.com/kake/

Organized Village of Kake: http://www.kakefirstnation.org/ City of Kake: http://www.cityofkake.org/ 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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Kake Local spotlight: Kake

n 1926, the village of Kake reluctantly decided under heavy pressure to burn all of the community’s totem poles in the name of “progress.” Decades later, in 1971, Kake elders rose the world’s tallest pole as a reaffirmation of Kake’s cultural roots.

In April 2015, a powerful gust of wind snapped the top of the 136-foot-tall pole. Now, the community must decide how to move forward.

Ruth Demmert is a cultural leader and teacher in Kake. In a recent interview with Capital City Weekly freelance writer Bethany Goodrich, Demmert shared some of the pole’s secrets and explained the significance of this particular totem in helping Kake “recapture its culture.”

Here is an excerpt from that interview: Bethany Goodrich: How did the pole come to be?

Ruth Demmert: They cut Kake’s totem poles down and had a big bonfire and people cried just like losing loved ones all over again. I was not alive at that time, but I have heard the history. There were tears shed but that was their decision to go forward for ‘progress.’

I was really young and I don’t know who all took part in the planning of the pole but I remember my grandparents 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

being together over coffee and my grandfather talking about how it was a shame that all the poles were burned and that we need to replace them because we are losing the culture. We need one put up in place for all those that were lost, that were cut down and burned.

We need to recapture our culture.

So they were talking about a pole being put up to represent all of the clans here in Kake. The killer whale, the shark, the salmon, the frog, the beaver, the eagle, the raven and more.

Goodrich: What is the significance of the totem pole to people in Kake today?

Demmert: It brings a lot of tourists to Kake, to us. There are three other really large totem poles that I hear of, I don’t know where they are, but I still consider ours to be the world’s tallest because it is one tree, not two trees put together.

But to me, I always tell the kids that this pole was put up so we can recapture our culture our history, our way of life.

I think it is a remembrance for us, it makes us remember the things our families went through, our ancestors went through to get our culture back and this pole was the beginning.

Read the full story by Bethany Goodrich here: http://www.capitalcityweekly.com/ stories/061015/ae_1250552574.shtml www.capitalcityweekly.com

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Ketchikan

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Photo by Gwen Carpenter Paddling in downtown Ketchikan.

KETCHIKAN

Population: 8.050 (13.477 In the borough) 60% white. 17% Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Tlingit, Ketchikan Indian Community), 11 % Asian.

Name: From the proper name Kichxhaan, an early inhabitant of the area who gifted the land to his wife’s clan. The word also is believed to mean “calm water, spreading out like an eagle’s wing.”

Road access: No

SAXMAN

Population: 411, 30% white, 51% Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Tlingit, Organized Village of Saxman), 17% mixed ancestry.

Name: Named for Samuel Saxman, a Presbyterian teacher who was lost at sea with a Cape Fox elder while searching for a new village site for residents of Ihe villages of Tongass and Cape Fox in 1886.

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Ketchikan, on Revillagigedo Island, is

well known for its arts community, its impressive collection of totem poles, and its abundant outdoor recreation opportunities, which include adventures into the 2.2 million acre Misty Fiords National Monument, 22 miles east of the city. Arts lovers will want to check out Ketchikan’s Wearable Art Show in February, the original event in Alaska (and possibly the world).

Saxman Native Village is about 2 miles south, accessible by car, bike or public bus.

The village includes the Beaver Clan Tribal House, carving shed, and totem pole park.

Other places to appreciate this regional artform are Totem Bight State Park, about 15 minutes from the city, and the Totem Heritage Center downtown.

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Ketchikan Getting there By Sea

Getting there By air

Ketchikan receives Alaska Marine Highway ferry service six days a week in the summer, and five to six days a week in the winter. Juneau is 21 hours by ferry.

Passengers can travel to the Lower 48 via the ferry to Bellingham, a 36 hour trip, and northbound travelers can access the Gulf of Alaska via Whittier.

The Inter-Island Ferry Authority, a public nonprofit which is not part of the Alaska Marine Highway, connects Ketchikan and Hollis, on Prince of Wales Island, making daily trips for passengers and vehicles year round. The trip is 3 hours one way, and food is available for purchase on board.

There are six boat harbors in Ketchikan, operated by the Ports & Harbors department: Bar Harbor South, Bar Harbor North, Thomas Basin, Casey Moran, Knudson Cove, and HoleIn-The-Wall; as well as the Port of Ketchikan, and three launch ramps.

Thomas Basin and Casey Moran are located within city limits — Thomas Basin at the east end and Casey Moran west of the cruise ship docks. Bar Harbor, or Bar Point Basin, is a little over a mile northwest of Thomas Basin and includes the harbormaster’s office, located at 2933 Tongass Avenue, above Bar Harbor North.

Hole in the Wall is 8 miles east, and Knudson Cove Marina is 15 miles north of downtown Ketchikan, Marine services include fuel, supplies, repair services and a shipyard. Harbor amenities include restrooms, showers, and laundry facilities.

Ketchikan International airport, the fifth busiest in Alaska, is on Gravina island. Upon arrival, passengers catch a five minute ferry to Revillagigedo Island, and the city is a mile and a half from there, accessible by car, shuttle, public bus or taxi.

Alaska Airlines connects Ketchikan with Juneau, Sitka, Petersburg and Wrangell, as well as Anchorage and Seattle several times a day. Delta Airlines offers seasonal service as well.

Small carriers that serve Ketchikan Airport include Taquan Air, ProMech Air, Island Air Express, Pacific Airways, Aero Services and Misty Fjords Air.

2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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Information sources

Visitor information: www.visitketchikan.com Harbor information: http:// www.ktn-ak.us/harbors Arts council: http://ketchikanarts.org/ Saxman Native Village: http://www. capefoxtours.com/saxman.html

Photo by Libby Stringer 27

Courtesy of Ketchikan Visitors Bureau

Ketchikan

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Ketchikan

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METLAKATLA Photo by Mary Catharine Martin the Tsimshian house front screen created by David A. Boxley and son David R. Boxley is shown at the Walter Soboleff Building in Juneau.

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Metlakatla is located on Annette Island, near the southern end of the Alexander Archipelago.

Annette Island and the surrounding waters are under the jurisdiction of the Metlakatla Indian Community and represent Alaska’s only federal reservation, the Annette Islands Reserve.

Metlakatla is also Alaska’s only Tsimshian village. A good time to visit is Aug. 7, Founders Day, celebrated in recognition of the day in 1887 when a group of 826 Tsimshian people from British Columbia followed William Duncan over the Canadian border to establish a new home.

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METLAKATLA Population: 1,405. 10% white. 83% Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Tsimshian, Metlakatla Indian Community, Annette Island Reserve).

Name: From Maxlakxaafa, a Sm’algyax (the language of the Tsimshian) word meaning “salt water passage.”

Road access: No

Getting there by sea

The Alaska Marine Highway travels between Annette Bay and Ketchikan twice a day, five days a week year-round. The trip is 45 minutes one

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METLAKATLA way. From Annette Bay, travelers must travel by road to the village, 14.7 miles away. Allen Marine also services Metlakatla through charters and on special occasions, such as Founders Day. Getting there By air

Metlakatla is served by floatplane companies including Pacific Airways, ProMech Air and Taquan Air, which arrive at the Metlakatla Seaplane Base.

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Taquan Air and Pacific Airways make daily scheduled trips year round and ProMech provides year-round charter service. Travelers can also access the community via ferry after flying into Ketchikan, a regularly scheduled stop for Alaska Airlines.

Information sources

Metlakatla Indian Community: https://www.metlakatla.com/

Local history: Metlakatla

he prevailing narrative has it that the more than 800 people who relocated from Canada to Metlakatla, Alaska in 1887 completely rejected traditional Tsimshian ways.

But the photographs of Benjamin Alfred Haldane, one of North America’s first professional indigenous photographers, tell a different story.

When he was 13, Haldane, who went

by B.A., was one of those who traveled the 30 miles by canoe from Old Metlakatla to Alaska with Anglican missionary William Duncan. His photos present a counternarrative to the general perception of Metlakatla as “a Christian utopia” whose Tsimshian residents had rejected traditional ways of life, writes University

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of Alaska Southeast assistant professor of Alaska Native Studies Mique’l Dangeli.

Dangeli was born and raised in Metlakatla and wrote her master’s thesis on Haldane.

“Today this depiction (Metlakatla as rejecting Tsimshian traditions and beliefs) continues to dominate our community’s representation in the written history of the Northwest Coast,” Dangeli told attendees of the 2007 Clan Conference in Sitka. That story “has overshadowed the stories of resistance and cultural continuity that persist in our community.”

Read the full story by Mary Catharine Martin here: http://www.capitalcityweekly. com/stories/111616/ae_1271407207. shtml

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PELICAN

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Photo by Katie Spielberger Pelican Harbor.

Pelican is located on Lisianski Inlet on the northwest coast of Chichagof Island.

Founded as a commercial fish processing site in 1938, it remains an active fishing destination for Alaskans and visitors alike.

White Sulphur Hot Springs, a natural hot springs, is about 20 miles from Pelican, on west coast of Chichagof Island. A US Forest Service cabin at the site is accessible via boat; local knowledge of the area is recommended for navigation.

In addition, Pelican is on the edge of the Chichagof & Yakobi Island Wilderness Area.

Getting there By sea

Pelican is a nine-hour ferry ride from Juneau or three hours from Gustavus. The Alaska Marine Highway ferry stops here twice a month in the summer and once a month 32

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PELICAN

Population: 88. 59% white. 34% Alaska Native Name: In 1938 a fish buyer from Sitka, Kalle (Charley) Raataikainen, began buying fish in this area and named the place after his fish-packing vessel, “The Pelican.”

Road access: No

in the winter. During the summer, the ferry sometimes overnights in Pelican. And in the winter it’s possible to head back to Juneau the same day.

Pelican Harbor is operated by the City of Pelican. A laundromat with public showers is at the top of the harbor ramp, as is the harbormaster’s office. Services include a marine repair business, diesel and gasoline engine 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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PELICAN repair, welding service and a fuel dock.

Getting there By air

Juneau-based Alaska Seaplanes provides daily scheduled service to Pelican, and Harris Air offers service from Sitka, with connections to other Southeast communities.

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Information Sources

Visitor information: http:// www.pelican.net/ Unseen Alaska: http:// unseenalaska.com/pelican/ City of Pelican: (907) 735-2202 Seatrails: http://www.seatrails.org/com_ pelican/index.htm

Traveler’s tale: Rosie’s Bar in Pelican

rsa Major (our boat) has a bow nose for Pelican, where Capt. Ron will get to say hello to his old friend Rosie and introduce his passengers to what every seiner, gillnetter, long liner, yachty and all who have stopped at Pelican’s dock know — time spent at Rosie’s World Famous Bar and Grill is best remembered by just you and those who take you there.

We tie up and move up the half-mile of boardwalk called Pelican. Capt. Ron slips a envelope with our moorage fee under the harbormaster’s door (he’s out fishing) and we are introduced to Rosie.

Rosie found Pelican when she brought in a catch of salmon on her tugboat many years ago. With two twin girls on her knees in the pilothouse as she fished, Rosie wanted a change. She sold the fish and tug, put a down payment on the bar and the rest is history.

Locals seated at the bar holler, “Welcome!” in unison when we step inside.

2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

Rosie moves among us, her 77 years (which she seems to have been for a few years now) are a cover for her boundless energy. She coaxes the unsuspecting to stand on the bar and pin a dollar bill there or sign the ceiling, at which point the signee will lose their pants and underwear in one quick tug, either by Rosie or by whichever of her now midadult daughters is tending bar. Patrons can tend bar themselves, mixing their own drink and leaving the money in a jar next to a list of what they consume.

Rosie will settle up with you later.

A glance at the ceiling is a virtual who’s who of names you hear mentioned at your local town’s public meetings, on television, in the pulpit or, well, it seems everyone has been here at one time in their life.

Read the whole story by Klas Stolpe here: juneauempire.com/local/2013-04-01/chichagof-islands-hidden-gems-and-treasures#gsc.tab=0 www.capitalcityweekly.com

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Petersburg

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Friends pose in Norwegian bunad, traditional clothing, during Little Norway in Petersburg in 2014. Photo by Mary Catharine Martin Petersburg is located on the northern edge of Mitkof Island. Well known for its vibrant Norweigan heritage, celebrated every year during its popular Little Norway Festival May 17, this community is also a great place for those who love dock strolling and boat perusing, any time of the year. It is one of Alaska’s busiest fishing ports -- and one of the top 25 ports in the country -- a role it has long fulfilled for Tlingit inhabitants of the area.

Pleasure boats also gravitate toward Petersburg; in 2013, it was named one of the top 10 boat communities in the US for pleasure craft, alongside Seattle and San Francisco.

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PETERSBURG

Population: pop. 2.948. 8O% white.

7% Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Tlingit, Petersburg Indian Association), 3% Asian Name: Named after Peter Buschmann, a Norwegian immigrant and a pioneer in the cannery business, who arrived in the late 1890s.

Road access: No

Getting there By sea

Petersburg receives Alaska Marine Highway ferry service five days a week in the summer, 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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PETERSBURG including fast ferry service from Juneau once a week, and four days a week in the winter.

Petersburg has three municipal-owned harbors, a short walk from town. Restrooms and showers are available, and there’s a laundromat in town. Boaters will also find services available from local shipwrights and fuel stations.

Getting there By air

Alaska Airlines connects Petersburg with the Southeast communities of Juneau, Wrangell and

Ketchikan, as well as Anchorage and Seattle.

Small carriers include Fjord Flying Service , Pacific Wings, and Harris Air. The Petersburg James A Johnson Airport is located 1 mile south of town.

Information sources

Visitor guide: http://www.petersburgak.org/ and http://www. petersburgalaska.com/ City site: http://www.ci.petersburg.ak.us/ Petersburg Pilot: www.petersburgpilot. com/

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Local perspective: Kupreanof

ow does Alaska’s smallest city celebrate 40 years? By inviting the neighbors over for company. The community of Kupreanof offered free rides for the community of Petersburg to come visit during its anniversary celebration May 14, and people arrived en force. For the full day, Petersburg resident Don Holmes brought passengers back and forth on the M/V Juno. Holmes agreed to be the go-between months ago, and he remembers thinking, “Who’s gonna want to go over to Kupreanof? Won’t be that many.” By the time I hitched a ride from the Petersburg Harbormaster’s office just after noon, Holmes had already made ten trips and a second boat was being called in for reinforcements. Passengers included longtime locals and recent arrivals alike, all happy to catch a free ride to the neighboring island.

Read the full story by Chelsea Tremblay here: http://www.capitalcityweekly.com/stories/051816/ae_1268482618.shtml

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Prince of Wales

Photo by Libby Stringer Coffman Cove

Prince of Wales is the third largest island in the United States. Though not accessible by road, many of its communities can be explored through the island’s road system.

The largest community is Craig, home to about 1,200 people.

Prince of Wales’ communities include the Tlingit village of Klawock, and the Haida villages of Kasaan and Hydaburg, Notable annual events on the island include the By the Sea Arts & Seafood Festival in Coffman Cove, held in early August.

The island is also known for El Capitan Caves, the largest caves in the state. The US Forest Service provides guided tours.

The Prince of Wales Chamber of Com36

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merce lists the following communities on its website: Coffman Cove, Craig, Edna Bay, Hollis, Hydaburg, Kasaan, Klawock, Naukati Bay, Point Baker, Port Protection, Thorne Bay and Whale Pass.

Getting there By sea

The Inter-Island Ferry Authority makes daily trips between Hollis and Ketchikan, and Rainforest Islands Ferry runs between Coffman Cove, Wrangell and Petersburg.

There are multiple harbors on the island, See page 38 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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Prince of Wales including Craig Harbor. The harbormaster building on the corner of the Craig Klawock Highway and West Hamilton Drive provides public restrooms and public showers and is open all year round. There is a laundromat in town, a few blocks away.

Getting there BY AIR

Carriers that serve the island’s communities include Island Air Express and Harris Air, which both land at the Klawock airport.

Floatplane service is offered by Taquan Air (Craig, Klawock, Thorne Bay, Hollis, Hydaburg, Coffman Cove, Naukati Bay, Whale Pass, Edna Bay, Port Protection and Point Baker) and Pacific Airways (Craig,

Hollis, Thorne Bay and Metlakatla). Both carriers land at the Fred Hamilton Sr. Seaplane Base in Craig.

Sunrise Aviation offers year-round charter flights to Point Baker and Port Protection.

Residents and visitors can also fly in and out of Ketchikan and then take the local ferry.

Information sources

Prince of Wales Chamber of Commerce: http://www. princeofwalescoc.org/ City of Craig: http://www.craigak.com

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Local perspective: Kasaan

s the morning of Sept. 3, 2016 broke warm and clear over the village of Kasaan, a small southeast Alaskan village of approximately 50 year-round residents, a sense of excitement and celebration — along with laughter, music, and the sound of carving tools on wood — filled the air. Carver Gitajang (Glenn “Stormy” Hamar) along with apprentice carvers St’igiinii (Harley Holter), Nang K’adangaas (Eric Hamar), and Wooshdeiteitxh (Justin Henricks) were in the carving shed, preparing for the rededication of Náay í’Waans (The Great House), better known as the Chief Son-i-Hat Whale House.

“It (Náay í’Waans) is our history and connects us to our heritage, our ancestors, and means everything to the people and to the village of Kasaan,” said Gitajang.

Read the whole story by Quinn Aboudara at http://www.capitalcityweekly. com/stories/090716/ae_1270286129.shtml

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Prince of Wales Communities of Prince of Wales COFFMAN COVE Population: 176, 94% white. 4% Native.

Name: Named in 1886 by Lt. Comdr. A.S. Snow of the US Navy for Lt. Dewitt Coffman, a member of his party.

CRAIG Population: 1,201, 65% white, 20% Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Tlingit, Craig Tribal Association).

Name: Named for Craig Miller, who built a fish saltery on nearby Fish Egg Island in 1907.

EDNA BAY Population: 42. 98% white.

Name: Uncertain origin HOLLIS Population: 112, 89% white, 4% Alaska Native.

Name: Uncertain origin.

HYDABURG: Population: 376, 11% white, 77% Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Haida, Hydaburg Cooperative Association).

Name: Named in 1911 , when three Haida villages -- Sukkwan, Howkan, and Klinkwan -came together to share resources.

KASAAN Population: According to Mayor Della Coburn in Feb. 2016: 31 (approximately 62 %) Alaska Native, 19 (38 %) white Name: From Kasa ‘aan, a Tlingit word meaning “beautiful village.”

KLAWOCK Population: 755. 38% white. 4B% Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Tlingit; Klawock Coopera2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

tive Association), 12% mixed ancestry.

Name: From the Tlingit name Lawaak derived from Lawa, the man who founded the village.

NAUKATI BAY Population: 113. 88% white, 6% Alaska Native.

Name: From the Tlingit Naakigheey meaning “upstream” (northward).

POINT BAKER Population: 15, 73% white, 27% mixed ancestry.

Name: Named in 1793 by Capt. George Vancouver in honor of the Second Lieutenant on his ship The Discovery.

PORT PROTECTION Population: 48, 73% white, 19% Alaska Native.

Name: First occupied by “Wooden Wheel” Johnson in the early 1900s. His store, fuel dock, and fish·buying scow allowed trollers to stop for supplies and safe anchor on their trips north and south.

THORNE BAY Population: 471, 92% white, 2% Alaska Native.

Name: Named after Frank Manley Thorn, superintendent of the U.S. Coast & Geodetic Survey from 1885 through 1889. The name was misspelled when published.

WHALE PASS Population: 31, 87% white, 3% Alaska Native, 9% Pacific Islander.

Name: Named by a Navy commander in the 1880s for the abundance of orcas and humpback whales commonly seen in the pass. www.capitalcityweekly.com

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SITKA

Courtesy of Greater Sitka Chamber of Commerce

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SITKA

Photo by James Brooks Sitka from the air.

Sitka is located on Baranof Island, on

the outer coast. Three of the city’s strengths — the arts, fishing, and the outdoors — are highlighted during three festivals spread throughout the year: the month-long Sitka Summer Music Festival in June, the Sitka Seafood Festival in August, and Whalefest in November.

Sitka is a very walkable city, and there’s lots to see, including the Sheldon Jackson Museum, Sitka Sound Science Center, Sitka National Historical Park and the Alaska Raptor Center.

Nearby is the seasonal community of Baranof Warm Springs, 20 miles to the east, accessible by float plane and private boat.

SITKA

Population: 8,881, 65% white, 17% Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Tlingit, Sitka Tribe of Alaska), 6% Asian Name: From Sheet’ka, meaning “ocean side of Shee,” the Tlingit placename for Baranof Island).

Road access: No

The Alaska Marine Highway provides service to and from Sitka five to seven days a week in the summer and three to four days a week in the winter. The ride to Juneau is 10 hours.

Fast ferry service is also offered between Sitka, Angoon and Juneau; one way the trip is four and a half hours.

The ferry terminal is accessible by Sitka’s public bus, called the Community Ride.

The Sitka Harbor Department operates five boat harbors, including Crescent Harbor, Sealing Cove Harbor, ANB Harbor, Thomsen Harbor and Eliason Harbor.

Fuel is available from the dock beneath the suspension bridge.

Public showers are available at the Sitka Laundry Center, 906 Halibut Point Rd., and Baranof Laundromat, at 1211 Sawmill Creek

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Getting there by sea

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SITKA Road; both are open year round.

Getting there By air

Alaska Airlines offers year round daily service from Anchorage and Seattle, as well as Juneau and Ketchikan. Delta Airlines also offers seasonal daily service between mid-May and early September.

Small carriers that service Sitka include Alaska Seaplanes, Fjord Flying Service and Harris Air. The Sitka Rocky Gutierrez Airport,

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Information Sources

Sitka Convention and Visitors Bureau: http://www.sitka.org/ Harbor Department: http:// www.cityofsitka.com, (907) 747-3439

Traveler’s tale: Baranof

or seven out of the last 10 autumns, Rick Fleischman and Jen Price have packed up, stocked up, and headed to Baranof Wilderness Lodge for seven months of solitude ...

Price and Fleischman switch off each year with fellow caretakers Anke Wagner and Dave Zieger, so they can have one winter at the lodge and one winter with family.

Sometimes Price and Fleischman have visitors; other times, they’ll go seven months without people, and as many as two without a plane. They stock up ahead of time and grow cilantro, lettuce and basil at the lodge.

The Garnicks are on their third season as Baranof ’s winter caretakers; they’re there from October to May. They’ve lived remotely for years, off and 42

named for Sitka’s former mayor, is located on 605 Airport Road, on Japonski Island, a walkable one mile from downtown over the O’Connell Bridge. Seasonal shuttle service is available.

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on, in Port Alexander and Thorne Bay, “so an opportunity to be even more remote was a welcome choice,” they wrote in an email. “Just living remote requires one to be creative in daily living. Living off the grid, firewood, pre-planning on grocery and supply orders keeps things interesting.”

Most of the people there, even in the summer, stay only a few weeks — homeowners, fishermen, private and charter boaters who tie up to the dock. That makes winter caretakers some of Warm Springs Bay’s longest-term residents.

“We’re always so excited to come back,” Price said.

Read the whole story by Mary Catharine Martin here: http://www. capitalcityweekly.com/stories/012815/ out_1236636806.shtml 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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Skagway

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The Alaska Marine Highway ferry Malaspina heads up Lynn Canal toward Skagway.

Skagway is at the northern end of Lynn Canal, on the mainland. It is one of the only Southeast communities accessible by road and is also the only place in Southeast you can catch a train, the White Pass and Yukon Railway.

Though Skagway’s history as a Gold Rush boom town is one of its main draws for visitors to the area, Alaskans will find there is much more to discover here. For example, in recent years Skagway has become a hotspot for writers, as host of the North Words Writers Symposium, which attracts top writers from around the state. Nearby Dyea is now home to Alderworks Alaska, a retreat for writers and artists of all kinds. Dyea is also well known for its role as the starting point 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

Photo by Michael Penn

SKAGWAY

Population: 920, 91% white, 4% Alaska Native; (tribal affiliation: Tlingit, Skagway Village).

Name: From the Tlingit word Shghagwei, meaning “rugged or wrinkled-up water.”

Road access: Yes

Dyea

Name: From the Tlingit word deiyaa, “to pack.”

of the Chilkoot Trail, a hike all Southeast Alaskans should make at least once.

Getting there by Sea

Skagway receives Alaska Marine Highway ferry service seven

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Skagway days a week in the summer, and three to four days a week in the winter. The ferry dock is within walking distance of town.

The Haines-Skagway Fast Ferry offers multiple trips to neighboring Haines in the summer. The trip is 45 minutes one way.

Skagway is also serviced by Haines-based Alaska Fjordlines, which offers seasonal daytours to Juneau (arriving at Yankee Cove, where passengers catch a bus to town).

The city-operated Skagway Small Boat Harbor has moorage for vessels up to 150 ft. Amenities include seasonal restrooms and showers. The harbor is within walking distance of town.

Getting there By air

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Alaska Seaplanes offers seven wheel-plane flights daily between Juneau and Skagway in the sum-

Getting there By road

Skagway’s nearest Southeast neighbor is Haines, which is 350 miles away by car via the Golden Circle, which passes through Carcross, Whitehorse, and Haines Junction.

Skagway is connected to the Alaska Highway via the Klondike Highway.

Information sources

Convention and Visitors bureau: http://skagway.com/ Harbor: http://www.skagway.org/ Chilkoot Trail: http://www.nps.gov/klgo/ planyourvisit/chilkoottrail.htm

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Traveler’s tale: Dyea

f the Dyea dirt could talk, what a story it would tell.

Back in 1897, this now-abandoned gold rush boom town nine miles out of Skagway supported 8,000 people and 150 businesses (including 48 hotels, 47 restaurants, 39 bars, 4 cemeteries and 2 newspapers), all thanks to its position at the base of the Chilkoot Trail, leading to the promise of gold. Very little evidence of this activity remains today, save for a few token ruins; the trees have grown over the townsite, and the Taiya River and the rain have washed the rest away.

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mer season, and three per day in the winter.

Skagway is also serviced by charter-based Fjord Flying Service. The airport is within walking distance of downtown.

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Yet Dyea remains true to its history: it is still the starting point for travelers braving the 33-mile Chilkoot Trail, a role that extends back hundreds if not thousands of years. The area was traditionally used as a staging area for Tlingit traders who would travel up and over the Chilkoot Pass to meet interior Athabaskan tribes and exchange goods.

The town’s name comes from the Tlingit word “deiyaa,” “to pack.”

Read the full story by Amy Fletcher here: http://www.capitalcityweekly.com/ stories/060315/ae_1250126988.shtml 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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Tenakee Springs Tenakee Springs is located on Chichagof Island, on the north shore of Tenakee Inlet. There are no roads in Tenakee except for the three-mile long main street.

A general store, Synder Mercantile, anchors the town, along with the bathhouse, fed by the area’s natural hot springs.

Getting there By Sea

The community of Tenakee receives Alaska Marine Highway passenger ferry service three times a week in the summer and twice a week in the winter. It is a four and a half hour trip from Juneau. The town oversees a small harbor and fuel dock for private boaters.

TENAKEE SPRINGS Population: 131, 95% white, 1% Alaska Native.

Name: The Tlingit name for Tenakee Hot Springs is T’aay Xh’e, “hot springs mouth,” and one name for Tenakee Inlet is T’einaagheey, “hindward side bay.”

Road access: No

Photo by Mary Catharine Martin Tenakee Springs.

Getting there By air

Alaska Seaplanes offers three scheduled flights every day in the summer, and two per day in the winter. Harris Air also serves Tenakee and charter flights are available.

Information sources

Photo by Mary Catharine Martin The LeConte arrives in Tenakee..

2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

Visitor information: www.tenakeespringsak.com Alaska Marine Highway Service: http://www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs/comm/ tenakee.shtml www.capitalcityweekly.com

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Wrangell

Photo by Mary Catharine MartinWrangell’s Petroglyph Beach Wrangell is located on the northwest end of Wrangell Island. A busy fishing town, Wrangell’s position at the mouth of the Stikine River make it a great place to launch water-based explorations (see the “Traveler’s Tale’ on page 47.) For those who prefer landbased adventures, Wrangell has more than 100 miles of forest roads to explore.

It is also the staging area for trips to the US Forest Service’s Anan Bear and Wildlife Observatory, 30 miles away, and is host to the Stikine River Birding Festival at the end of April and Alaska Bearfest in late July.

Wrangell is also known for its cultural sites including the Chief Shakes Historic Site, which features a newly restored Tlingit tribal house.

Getting there By sea

Alaska Marine Highway System provides ferry service to Wrangell five days a week year round. It is a six hour ride from Ketchikan 46

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WRANGELL

Population: 2,369, 73% white, 16% Alaska Native (tribal affiliation: Tlingit, Wrangell Cooperative Association), 1% Asian.

Name: Named for Ferdinand Von Wrangel, manager of the Russian-American Co. around 1830.

Road access: No

and 12 hours from Juneau.

Wrangell operates three harbors. The Downtown Harbor is within walking distance of town and incudes two fuel docks, showers and laundry facilities. Boat repair and maintenance services are also available.

The harbormaster’s office is located on Reliance Float in the downtown harbor.

Newly constructed Heritage Harbor is located approximately 1 mile from downtown and Shoemaker Bay Harbor is located 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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WRangell Traveler’s tale: Stikine River

hough many sources — among them National Geographic — erroneously say the Tlingit translation is “The Great River,” and people do call it that, “Stikine,” or, in Tlingit, “Shtax’heen,” actually translates as silty, cloudy, or bitter river. The Stikine was definitely silty; our paddles disappeared an inch below the surface, and I had so much finely ground grit on my skin that I could feel my fingertips catching on my clothing and wore glasses instead of contacts after the first day of paddling on the river.

The Stikine’s water is always lower than normal in May, but it was especially low this year, with the lack of rain.

The plus side of that is that campsites, and driftwood for fires, were easy to find. Our favorite camping spot was where the Scud River flows into the Stikine; while those with Canadian licenses fished, I walked up and down the clear, greenish water picking up glittering white rocks. The next morning, when we woke up, we saw that two wolves had walked through our camp that night.

Wolf and brown bear sign increased as we traveled farther downriver; we saw tracks imprinted onto the cracked, cement-like mud when we stopped for lunch or to refill our water jug. A few nights after the Scud River, when we 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

were still in Canada, we stopped on an island marked with a piece of pink flagging. We figured out why it was marked when a boat with three Alaska Department of Fish and Game employees pulled up. They dragged a small mesh net in a circle close to the shore and tossed all the juvenile Chinook into a bucket. They aimed to collect 50,000, they said, and tag them with coded wire.

That afternoon, with the help both of Cal’s GPS and their directions, we found our way to Fowler Hot Springs, also called Choquette Hot Springs.

We paddled up a calm slough that ended in sandbars, bear and moose tracks, and a faint path over a steep, muddy bank, pulled up our boats and followed along a small creek, testing the water with our hands until it warmed.

We saw dozens of small toads, sometimes right where the hot water bubbled up from the sandy ground. These hot springs aren’t developed, and there aren’t any man-made signs.

That evening we camped at the outflow of the Great Glacier and walked up to the glacier itself the next morning.

Read the whole story by CCW editor Mary Catharine Martin at http://juneauempire.com/outdoors/2015-05-29/ gold-rush-ghost-town-migratory-delta www.capitalcityweekly.com

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wrangell approximately 5 miles from the downtown area. There is also a City Dock, also known as the Cruiseship Dock.

Getting there By air

Alaska Airlines provides daily service to Wrangell and connects it to Juneau, Petersburg and Ketchikan. The airport is 1 mile northeast of the city at 1 Airport Loop Road.

Sunrise Aviation, based in Wrangell, also offers year round wheel plane charter service to Kake, Ketchikan, Petersburg, Sitka and Juneau, among other locations, It also pro-

vides transportation to Anan Creek, up the Stikine River, and to USFS cabins in the surrounding area.

Sunrise now refers people to Pacific Wings, out of Petersburg, for floatplane flights.

Other carriers include Harris Air, based in Sitka.

Information sources

Visitor information: http:// www.wrangell.com/visitorservices/visitingwrangell-alaska Wrangell Harbors: http://www.wrangell. com/port/welcome-port-and-harbors

Photo by Mary Catharine Martin Three campers watch the sun set outside a cabin near Wrangell.

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2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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YAKUTAT

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Photo by Mary Catharine Martin Mount Saint Elias from Yakutat.

Yakutat is located on the Gulf of Alaska on the mainland. It is the northernmost community in Southeast Alaska.

Yakutat is surrounded by Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park and Preserve, the largest U.S. national park. Within the park — and visible from anywhere in Yakutat — is Mount St. Elias, which at 18,000 feet is the second highest peak in the US; Denali, the tallest, is 20,310 feet.

Yakutat is also home to one of the largest and southernmost known breeding colonies of Aleutian terns. An annual Tern Festival has been held since 2011 in late May. Getting there By sea

The Alaska Marine Highway System serves Yakutat in the 2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

YAKUTAT

Population: 662, 42% white, 36% Alaska Native (Tlingit, Yakutat Tlingit Tribe), 4% Asian Name: From the Tlingit word Yaakwdaat, meaning “canoe rebounded.”

Road access: No

summer via the cross-gulf route, a 17 hour trip from Juneau.

The city boat harbor is located north of Monti Bay and has a float plane dock available.

See page 50 www.capitalcityweekly.com

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YAKUTAT Traveler’s tale: Yakutat

o fly to Yakutat in April or early May is to become acquainted with a certain fishy sense of anticipation.

I’d never been to Yakutat before, nor had I fly fished; I’d just practiced casting in the Glacier Elementary School gym with the very patient and skilled president of Juneau’s Raincountry Flyfishers, Tony Soltys.

But to visit Yakutat when the steelhead are running requires at least an attempt to catch one. So I borrowed a fly rod from my boyfriend Bjorn’s brother, Reid, and called around ahead of time to see if there was someone in Yakutat who might be willing to show me the basics.

As I passed through security at the Juneau airport, one of the TSA workers came around the scanner with the fly rod (in its case) in hand.

“Going to Yakutat?” he asked, and handed it to me. “I didn’t want it to get banged up.”

Once I passed through security, I saw I was far from the only one whose carryon required special handling.

As we waited in line for the plane, I got to talking with two fellow fly rodcarrying passengers. Ben Rowell was heading to Yakutat for the fifth time. He mainly fishes for trout in the Matanuska

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Valley, but it’s “the chrome steelhead in the small, skinny water” that keeps him coming back to Yakutat, he said.

Joe Rudi was going to Yakutat for the first time, lured by stories of Rowell’s trips and a desire to get out of Anchorage and see a different part of Alaska.

Both planned to camp (for free) at the Forest Service campground at 9-mile bridge (it’s nine miles out the mostly gravel road toward Harlequin Lake, and where many Situk River fishermen base themselves.)

Once I got settled in my seat, a woman behind me — I later learned it was Victoria Demmert, president of the Yakutat Tlingit Tribe, who would generously take me on a tour of Yakutat highlights — told a newcomer why she loved her hometown.

“I always say that Yakutat on a rainy day is better than a sunny day anywhere else,” she said.

I couldn’t test the truth of that while I was there — all three days were gloriously sunny, with Mount Saint Elias visible from miles away — but a sunny day in Yakutat certainly ranks high.

Read the whole story by Mary Catharine Martin at http://juneauempire.com/ outdoors/2015-05-01/catching-chromersyakutat

2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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YAKUTAT Getting there By air

Alaska Airlines makes two daily trips to Yakutat, one from Seattle and one from Anchorage.

The airport is located at 997 Airport Road, 5 miles southeast of town. Smaller companies also offer chartered flights, including Fjord Flying Service.

Information sources

City of Yakutat: www.yakutatak. govoffice2.com/ Visitor guide: www.yakutat.net/ Tern festival: www.yakutatternfestival.org/

Photo by Mary Catharine Martin Fly fishermen Rick Hoffman and Kevin Fraley pose with a steelhead in Yakutat.

Photo by Michael Penn A humpback whale lunge feeds in front of kayakers.

2017 Southeast Alaska Navigator

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Business directory

Alaska Seaplanes offers round trip services from Juneau to ten (10) communities in Northern Southeast Alaska. We operate wheel and float equipped airplanes to the towns of Skagway, Haines, Gustavus, Hoonah, Kake, Excursion Inlet, Angoon, Tenakee, Pelican and Elfin Cove. We also have a variety of aircraft available for charter to remote locations.

Online ticketless travel is available through our website. Whether by land or sea, when traveling by airAlaska Seaplanes can get you there.

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Business directory

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Zen Fusion Restaurant is a Chinese restaurant serving Asian and some Western cuisine.

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