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MAGAZINE PLEASANT SENSE OF FASHION INJECTION
Photographer BILLEL OUAZENE Stylist KYO JINO Model @khleopatre at Anti Agency and @noramens Makeup KORLEONEGLOW
issue nine
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contributors contributors
A n n a b e l l e F o u c h e r A l i c e A n d r e w s & B e n e d i c t M o r g a n C a r a F r i e d m a n C h r i s s i e H a l l ĐĄ o s s a c F a s h i o n E m o n T o u f a n i a n E v g e n i y a M i n a e v a H a r r y C o o k e H o l l i e D e e H a r t P r o m i s e H a r v e y J o j o R o s s J e s s i c a - R o s e L e n a J u l i a S k e r g e t h & D a n i H u d a K a t i e B u r d o n K y o J I N O M a n u e l a I o d i c e N i c o S t i n g h e N ĂŠ f i s D h a b S o J i n P A R K T a n e r T u m k a y a S a m p l e - c m S ĂŠ n a A u r ĂŠ l i a & T h o m a s B a b e a u V a n e s s a Z i c a n F e n g V l a d Z o r i n
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JOJO ROSS SLOW LIFE
GUNS-LIDER
FLORIBUS LIQUESCENS ROOF TOP GIRLS MELEON SAMPLE-CM
CYBER CIRCUS
I FEEL THE EARTH MOVE PASSION FRUIT
LA FLOR DE LA CANELA COSSAC
ENDORPHINS
NEFERTITI X KHLEOPATRE JESSICA-ROSE LENA CAR RACE
THE WORLD MADE FLESH POST-PROVINCIAL CHRISSIE HALL
Taner Tumkaya
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Emon Toufanian
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interview
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Marion Grange
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Manuela Iodice
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Evgeniya Minaeva
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Annabelle Foucher
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interview
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Julia Skergeth
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Mandi K. Smith
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Cara Friedman
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Vanessa Zican Feng
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interview
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Hollie Dee Hart
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BILLEL OUAZENE
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interview
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NICO STINGHE
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Harry Cooke
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Vlad Zorin
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interview
chapter one
CRAVE YOU
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chapter two
this issue
this issue 8
HOMESICK
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olyakosterina.com
ANTI-SOCIAL
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Sena Aurelia
I KNOW A MODERN WOMAN
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SoJin PARK
SENSES
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Katie Burdon
YOGA IN CHINATOWN
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Interview with Nico Stinghe
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF & FOUNDER Ekaterina Dokuchaeva GRAPHIC DESIGNER Nikita Eliseev EDITORIAL editorial@just-magazine.com ADVERTISING info@just-magazine.com www.just-magazine.com
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olyakosterina.com
April 14, 2017 Dear reader, With our number nine we did not proclaim an art revolution. Aims to provide you with something fascinating again and again, our Spring-Summer’17 issue is here. Covered by KYO JINO and the Team, this issue will blow your mind away, literally. In this issue, you’ll find lot’s of exceptional features by generative fashion monsters, blustery imagery from every corner of the world and interviews with the innovative designers. Starting this year with biannual publication we became more interactive and goes in our online direction. We generate and perform with you holding our hands tight. There’s the thin but strong connection in between. Now don’t ever miss something in a digital form. Let your cyber ego out. And then lock it up once again. You’re precious. Last week our team dive into a long deep conversation about meaning and importance of art and fashion. Art is always a reflection of creator’s soul or otherwise just a simple parody. Or maybe complicated. Now the question is: is the real art born in a total deprivation ( inhale and exhale, cultivating creativity from the inside) or in a full-time internet surfing and cultural enrichment..? Like OK, you made something cool… again. Anything is boring five minutes later. Fast fashion, tapping any movements all the time, fast live and fast food. Thank’s God the fast food became more realistic and tasteful. Art is more than attitude, it’s a lifestyle. Now, what’s yours and what is ours? Should you know your history to not invent a bicycle again? Let’s be honest, being alive today is messy and contradictory. Fully loaded and moving your way. It’s not that bad to be antisocial this time. Walking around under the spring sun, singing songs like a bird. Hope you having a great time. As Oscar Wilde said: “Be yourself, everyone else is already taken”. Touching, petting and scratching with all of your five or six senses please enjoy this in digital or neither your print copy. Well, something or nothing. And… what’s something, again..?)
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Photographer Taner Tumkaya Wardrobe Stylists Ranxelle Levin and Garen Romeo Hair and Makeup Ranxelle Levin Model Therese @ Photogenics LA Location Fitzpatrick-Leland House by R.M. Schindler (1936)
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HEADWEAR- GENERIC GENERATION GLASSES- FENDI JOINT- CHRIS RIVERA SHIRT- MARC JACOBS NECKLACE- DIOR BELT- SALVATORE FERRAGAMO BOTTOM - GENERIC GENERATION SHOES - MARSÈLL
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DRESS- GENERIC GENERATION HEADWEAR- GENERIC GENERATION BELT- VINTAGE SHOES- VINTAGE MANOLO BLAHNIK
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DRESS FRANCASCA LONGO
Photographer Emon Toufanian @eemonn Styling Nay Campbell @naycampbellx Hair Denzel Morgan @ohdenzel Makeup Juliet Jane @julietjane Model Laura Hanson Sims @laurahansonsims 33
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JOJO ROSS photography by Imogen Wilson
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A graduate of Otago Polytechnic’s renowned fashion degree program, Jojo Ross has been known previously for her complex, sci-fi inspired one-off garments. These have seen her work featured as Vogue Italia’s 100 designers to watch in their September issue of 2012 and in 2014 had her flown to Vicenza, Italy where she was selected from a pool of 17000 to be one of the 100 designers from Not Just A Label (NJAL) to showcase their work as part of the Origin Passion & Beliefs exhibition and also has shown her work at New Zealand Fashion week.
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Tell us a bit about yourself and how you discovered your passion for clothing design? I was born in Queenstown, an alpine town at the bottom of the South Island, New Zealand. I studied at Fashion Design at Otago Polytechnic in Dunedin, and now I’m based in Auckland. My earliest memories I can associate with wanting to become a designer are not from a love of fashion but wanting to be something different. A childhood of moving instilled a constant desire for change, adventure and the new. Paired with my wild imagination a creative career was inevitable, and somehow it found an outlet in fashion.
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My AW17 collection was inspired by the Maserati Boomerang a concept car designed in the 70’s
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What is the concept behind your AW17 collection? What is your favourite piece of it? “1972”, my AW17 collection was inspired by the Maserati Boomerang - a concept car designed in the 70’s. I really wanted my shoot to tell the story of the collection and I really feel it epitomizes the concept. The 70’s; the attitude, the cool girl, the cool car.
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"THIS IS A VERY BASIC COLLECT
What techniques and materials did you use for wearable styles and wardrobe basics rather than the the collection and why? complex sculptural shapes I generally seek to create. This is a very basic collection for me technique wise. I needed to finish it quickly so I focused on more
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I used a lot of denims and knits and designed my first print for a tee shirt which I loved doing.
TION FOR ME TECHNIQUE WISE"
Which particular work are you most proud of? It’s hard to pick as like I said my collection was a basics collection, so I didn’t push the boundaries as
much as I normally do. I am proud of designing some really wearable pieces for a change, but still maintaining a high-end edge.
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What is the most difficult or challenging What fascinates you about the art world aspect about your career as a designer? today? Which designers have been the I do everything alone so maintaining self-be- most influential to you? lief and not becoming total overwhelmed by everything is a massive challenge.
What has been your biggest achievement so far? I was flown to Italy by “Not Just a Label” in 2014 to feature among their picks of the best emerging designers around the world – that was all kinds of surreal and wonderful!
Art and design has this ephemeral ability to instantly take you to another place or emotion. That’s a very powerful thing, and I’m obsessed with that feeling - being overwhelmed with inspiration. My favorite creatives are vastly different but include Fashion Designer Nicholas Gheqsuire, Animation director/writer/creator Hayao Miyazaki, Industrial Designer Dieter Rams.. and it may be a stretch but I also need to include writer Haruki Murukami.
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"Isolation breeds a unique creativity though I believe"
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Where do you live and how does it ing more conceptual pieces amongst my influence your work? ready-to-wear. I live in Auckland, New Zealand. It’s certainly a challenge being a designer here as we’re such a small country so far away from the rest of the world. Isolation breeds a unique creativity though I believe.
Are there any trends or movements you’re tapping into? While I really respect and believe in several of movements that are happening at the present my design comes from a different place in me and is generally not influenced by society at all..!
Your minimalistic elegance and perfectly balanced design seems really cool and perspective. How would you like to see your career as a designer Who would you most like to collabevolving in future? orate with from within the visual arts My first projects in fashion were very and fashion spheres?
conceptual and while they’re incredibly challenging I love designing in that manner. Moving forward I’d love to start working more with technology and creat-
I would really love to start working more with technology in the future so anybody with an interesting perspective in that field would be just amazing!
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Slow Life Art Director / Stylist Marion Grange Photographer NĂŠfis Dhab Hair and Make-up Laurie Le Felic Digital Operator Kevin Lavallade Model (Silent Agency) Sharnee Gates
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FLORIBUS LIQUESCENS
PHOTOGRAPHY BENEDICT MORGAN SET DESIGN AND ART DIRECTION ALICE ANDREWS www.benedictmorgan.com / www.aliceandrewsstudio.com
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FLORIBUS LIQUESCENS Is inspired by 1500's floral still life paintings. The colour and paint flowing out of the arrangements aim to give the impression that they are as one. Our ambition with this approach is was to blur the lines between photography and painting. Making a contemporary image that acts as a homage to its origins.
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PHOTOGRAPHY BENEDICT MORGAN SET DESIGN AND ART DIRECTION ALICE ANDREWS
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Photographer Annabelle Foucher Fashion Editor/ Stylist NoĂŠmie Fourmeau Model Valentine Dausseint 102 Charlie Velociraptor Makeup/hair
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interview sample-cm Sample-cm is a premium sportswear and intelligent design label. Trained in Sociology and in Fashion from prestigious DuperrĂŠ in Paris and Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world-renowned Central Saint Martins, the french designer Margot Charbonnier founded samplecm in Berlin endorsing a refreshing and plural vision within the spirit of the german capital.
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Tell us briefly about the brand. Who is behind it, how you discovered an interest in clothing design? Sample-cm is a Berlin based label developing â&#x20AC;&#x153;Grand Bassinâ&#x20AC;? a premium sportswear collection since 2015. After studying social sciences, I completed my education in fashion design in Paris and Central Saint Martins in London. My first education got a strong impact on the design process of Scm. I decided to fully consider the clothes as some interactive objects and fashion as a discipline of design, conditioned by both aesthetic dimensions but also by the requisites of use.
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"THE GENERAL IDENTITY OF THE LABEL IS BASICALLY A RIGHT BALANCE BETWEEN AESHETIC AND FUNCTIONALITY"
How would you describe your overall aesthetic? The Grand Bassin collections are mixing premium sportswear with intelligent design. The project is revisiting each season a new specific sport-,active-,streetwear catalog with high quality pieces handmade exclusively in Berlin. Grand Bassin clothes are designed as some equipment, some kits to be activated. They come with straps and an instruction sheet to transform, wrap or action the piece. The general identity of the label is basically a right balance between aeshetic and functionality. It is about to question, to challenge and to play with these two dimensions with strangeness and humour.
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"DOES THE CUSTOMER WANNA BE CREATIVE? WHAT DOES IT MEANS?"
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What is the concept behind the AW 2017 collection?
"THE GRAND BASSIN AW17 COLLECTION IS EXPLORING FITNESS/ ICE SKATING/ GYMNASTIC INSPIRATIONS WITH A STRONG URBAN TWIST AND A PREMIUM POSITIONNING"
The Grand Bassin AW17 collection is exploring fitness/ice skating/gymnastic inspirations with a strong urban twist and a premium positionning. This season, the practices and equipment refer also to the act of winding up gymnastic ribbons. In the campaign shot by the duo Stadman Lara, we have been playing with the strong identities and the interaction between the two models.
How do you think, could fashion be an important tool to explore some social and political issues or other big ideas? The Grand Bassin instructions are exploring the small, daily and individual actions, how they can have a strong impact on our social representation. Sample-cm is in that way considering directly the garment as an interactive tool between the shared and the individual, the social and the personal. The DIY and customization trends reflect particularly this contemporary need to bridge the consumer-producer gap and enables to question the potential of singularity of a garment. Does the customer wanna be creative? What does it means? What kind of values do I project on the clothes I wear? How do I personally shape my clothes?
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What fascinates you about the art world today? By the way, who are your favorite designers, if any. I am very sensitive to the hybridization of the contemporary art word. I always have been fascinated by the artists able to produce coherent multifaceted projects in involving different medias. The first artists to have inspired me was Hussein Chalayan, Matthew Barney or designers like the Bless duo. In this way, Scm works also through different medias, including performance or installation at the fashion shows. Placing garments into spaces and into action serves
as a logical public testimony of the projectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interactive scope, but also as communication and marketing platforms. I think is really important today to give the project a coherence beyond the field of fashion. Being based in Berlin has made it really easy in that sense.
How does your workspace look like? Our Berlin studio makes co-exist our different inspiring tools : books, sewing machines, computer, materials as well as strong objects as an orthopedic back brace my sister used to wear or lot of succulent plants ! Most of the time, the first idea about a collection comes however while Im swimming at the Stadtbad NeukĂślln, an amazing old swimming pool from the 20s, just next door the studio.
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What are your thoughts on the current trend for ‘fast fashion’ – do you think it’s giving brands less time to grow? Most of the customers have no idea about the costs of creating and producing a design piece especially in ethical conditions. They are obliged to follow the fashion timeline and buy constently new clothes. However, the emerging designers with capsule collections or the customers with the DIY trend are already reinventing the ways and rhythms to display, to desire and to consume fashion.
With Grand Bassin, I wanted to make cohexist the value of artisanal craftsmanship and the value of DIY (traditionally incompatible), exceptionality and accessibility, timeless basics and disposable equipments.
I think a good way to reinvent the fashion system would be to shake up the expectations of the customers and the values they project on a garment.
What has been your biggest achievement so far? From the very beginning, the label has been openly welcome by the international press. It gave me a strong motivation to go on with the concept. The AW15 collection is already the 4th season of Grand Bassin ! I have been able to show two collections at the Berlin Fashion Week and to start expanding the label outside of germany.
What is the most difficult or challenging aspect about being a designer in 2017? More than ever, the ways a label is communicating have become very important. This is something very fascinating and challenging because the designer need to be aware of all the different marketing fields. The new generation of emerging designers are naturally involving many medias and are challenging boundaries but they are however working in a still conservative fashion world with an unidisciplinary perspective. Sample-cm stand for a fluid and fertile fashion : between experimental and commercial, high-end and ready-to-wear, finished product and field 127 of possibilities, tendencies and useful artefacts.
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VBUS LIQUESCENS IS INSPIRED BY 1500'S FLORAL STILL LIFE PAINTINGS. THE COLOUR AND PAINT FLOWING OUT OF THE ARRANGEMENTS AIM TO GIVE THE IMPRESSION THAT THEY ARE AS ONE. OUR AMBITION WITH THIS APPROACH IS WAS TO BLUR THE LINES BETWEEN PHOTOGRAPHY AND PAINTING. MAKING A CONTEMPORARY IMAGE THAT ACTS AS A HOMAGE TO ITS ORIGINS.
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PHOTOGRAPHY BENEDICT MORGAN SET DESIGN AND ART DIRECTION ALICE ANDREWS
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Cyber Circus Photographer Dani Huda Art Direction & Styling Julia Skergeth MakeUp Paulina Moldovan Model Melo, Elisa Alberti
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S S A P I N O FR T UI Photographer Cara Friedman Model Richie Hines Stylist Chaine Leyendecker Makeup Courtney Hart Hair Dritan
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JACKET NOE BERNACELLI, TOP YINING WANG, PANTS HELFER, BOOTS TOPSHOP
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LA FLOR DE LA CANELA
Photographer Vanessa Zican Feng Stylist Carlos Chung Make up & Hair Debbie Ray Model Elena Chenguayen Photo Assistant Qu HaoYu
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> BLOUSE LOUIS VUITTON, VEST AND SKIRT AYNI, SHOES GUCCI, EARRINGS ANDREA ALONSO STUDIO
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COSSAC Designed in London and made in Europe, COSSAC promotes the minimalistic concept of Capsule Wardrobes, and offers a curated selection of contemporary threads and redefined basics with a sass edge. Sustainably designed and ethically produced, each quality garment is intended to be transseasonal, with the aim of minimizing wastefulness and maximizing usefulness.
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"EVERY
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Tell us a bit about yourself and in the past and that is currently our how you discovered your pas- production hub. It is my personal sion for clothing design? homage to that magical place. I like My name is Agatka and I am originally from Poland. From early years I was involved in the fashion world as one of my mother’s best friends was an acclaimed fashion designer in Poland. So very early on I knew that I had a love for fashion and I wanted to become a designer. I then moved to Barcelona and Istanbul to study fashion and textile design. I was gathering a cosmopolitan fashion experience which has subsequently shaped me as a designer. After my studies I moved to London to start my career as a fashion designer. I have been designing for various high end and high street brands to get as much experience as possible. But my end goal has always been setting up my own brand. During my professional formative years, however, I had seen a lot of injustice in the fashion industry (bad working conditions and underpaid staff, low product quality, unrealistic market demands, etc) so when it was time for me to set up my own company, it became clear that I wanted my brand to make a difference. Sustainable fashion was still a niche but I decided to dive into it!
What is the concept behind your SS17 collection? Every season we try to deliver a minimalist and versatile transeasonal collection with a sass edge. But to keep the brand relevant we always try to add an element of current trends. For SS17, apart from our classic black and ecru tones I introduced baby blue to emphasise the summer vibe I wanted to go for. I inspired the collection in Istanbul, a place that was my home
the personal connections I build during my journey as a person and as a conscious entrepreneur. SS17 ‘Meet me in the streets of Istanbul’ has a minimal boho city vibe and is designed for a Cosmopolitan COSSAC woman, an urban nomad who likes to emphasise her daring, sassy nature.
How would you describe your overall aesthetic? Minimal, versatile, sassy, fresh. It’s all about simplicity and sustainability with a sassy twist. Minimalism and versatility allows our customer to adapt the outfit to any occasion or season; day to night, work or casual weekend outfit. Sassy twist because we like our women to feel sexy and empowered in our garments; after all, who said conscious fashion can’t be sexy? And fresh because of the huge importance we put on our styling and branding; in order to compete with mainstream fast fashion our product has to be current and relevant.
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"WHO SAID CONSCIOUS
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"FASHION IS A POWERFUL TOOL AND IF USED WISELY CAN MAKE A LOT OF POSITIVE IMPACT" 186
Can you talk us through your ed directly by magazines and be feadesign process a bit â&#x20AC;&#x201C; what are tured on pages of Glamour, Nylon or C-heads to name a few. the key considerations? I design with sustainability in mind. I want every part of the garment life cycle to be as efficient as possible. When designing I only use sustainable fabrics (organic, recycled or with low environmental impact). I play with zero waste and smart design which reduces production waste and is transeasonal assuring that the COSSAC customer gets more than 30 wears from each garment (a 'magic' number in ethical fashion).
What has been your biggest achievement so far? I think every new stockist we secure and every magazine feature we get are great accomplishments, mainly because it's very hard to get either! haha I think one of the best moments when we got our first wholesale order from Japan; I literally could not contain my happiness. Japan is my personal happy place so it also meant that I get to travel more to visit Tokyo. It's also extremely rewarding to be contact-
How do you think, fashion is an important means to explore some social and political issues or other big ideas? I do believe that fashion reflects the state of society. The best example would be that after the crisis of 2008, a lot of people started to invest in high end minimal design (like Celine) and move away from fast throw-away clothing. Fashion is a powerful tool and if used wisely can make a lot of positive impact. As society becomes more conscious and altruistic as a whole, people start to demand transparency from the brands and and are more and more willing to pay more for a sustainably produced garment. By doing so consumers contribute to the positive change in the livelihood of the people in the supply chain. As sustainability becomes more mainstream, we as brand owners, are able to secure living wage and just working conditions for the people that make your clothes and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great feeling!
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What inspires your creative people in the supply chain and to process? the planet. It also made customers Mostly my travels. They are what truly makes me happy. I'm constantly on the move and I love getting lost in city streets. I observe local people, visit vintage stores and art galleries. As Diana Vreeland famously said the 'eye has to travel'. You can see a lot of minimalist Far East Asian element in COSSAC's collections since these cultures fascinate me so much. I'm also constantly on Instagram and flicking through tones of international magazines.
What are your thoughts on the current trend for ‘fast fashion’ – do you think it’s giving brands less time to grow? I don't think fast fashion is a trend anymore, it's a reality. I also don't think it will go away. Fast fashion has done a lot of harm to the
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believe that those ridiculously low prices are a norm. I think this social impact of fast fashion is much worse than the internal damage within brand's structure. I think it's also a damage that to some extent cannot be undone. We have to understand that there will always be that customer with low income for whom this £10 dress she can get for a Saturday night means everything. And that won't change. We have to be realistic about it. However, at the same time we should focus on our, still quite niche but growing, tribe of conscious consumers. The Millennials and the younger gens that demand transparency and a story behind the brand. There are more and more of them which makes me very happy!
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Are there any trends or movements you're tapping into? Quite a few I think! Sustainable fashion as a whole is still a trend; I do believe it will become a demanded norm though. We support the conscious consumerism movement and try to contribute to it as much as we can by offering a brand that looks and does good but that also tries to guide them in the right direction. We do believe in conscious lifestyle as whole; slow food, zero waste, conscious travelling and general mindfulness and wellbeing. As a sustainable brand owner but also as an individual, I think we should try to amend every area of our life in order to live more sustainably. That being said though, it's all about finding a balance that is right for you. We all have some guilty pleasures at the end of the day!
What can we expect from you in the future? I want COSSAC to grow but I also want it to stay relatively small as a business. Growing too big is not sustainable; it's hard to become a big company and still be able to maintain ethical practices. As long as COSSAC can sustain itself as a business and make a difference to the society, I'm more than happy. We will expand into new markets; the goal for the next few years is to have more stockists in Europe, Japan and South Korea. We also plan to incorporate a new ethical factory in Portugal. We want to promote sassy ECO-HOT fashion and we want to educate the customers about conscious consumerism. We have so many other interesting plans but you will have to wait to see them :)
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Photographer Hollie Dee Hart holliedeehart.com 195 Models Mary Dickinson, Alison DuBois
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FLORIBUS LIQUESCENS IS INSPIRED BY 1500'S FLORAL STILL LIFE PAINTINGS. THE COLOUR AND PAINT FLOWING OUT OF THE ARRANGEMENTS AIM TO GIVE THE IMPRESSION THAT THEY ARE AS ONE. OUR AMBITION WITH THIS APPROACH IS WAS TO BLUR THE LINES BETWEEN PHOTOGRAPHY AND PAINTING. MAKING A CONTEMPORARY IMAGE THAT ACTS AS A HOMAGE TO ITS ORIGINS.
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PHOTOGRAPHY BENEDICT MORGAN SET DESIGN AND ART DIRECTION ALICE ANDREWS
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Nefertiti x Khleopatre Photographer BILLEL OUAZENE Stylist KYO JINO Model @khleopatre at Anti Agency and @noramens Makeup KORLEONEGLOW
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ALL CLOTHES ARE VINTAGE PIECES, BRA VICTOR WEINSANTO
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224 Jessica-Rose Lena Photographer
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interview Digital and analogue fashion photographer based in the west midlands, gritty pastels and glitter, a lot of glitter tbh...
A N E L E S O R A C I S S JE Photographer Jessica-Rose Lena @jesssierosee models Alex Datcu @a.alleex and Mayte Drew @maytedrew mua Mayte Drew stylist Chloe Hollingsworth @bottleblondestudio stylists assistant Paige Rhianne @heldtogetherbypins clothing All clothing by Bottle Blonde Studio @bottleblondestudio
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Tell us briefly about yourself and how did you first get into photography? Im a photographer working between Birmingham and London. A lot of my work is fashion based but I take a lot of influence from street and documentary photography, I try to let that come out in my what I create. I have always loved taking photos but it was kind of a merging of interests, I’d been taking photos since I was small my mom and nan used to let me finish off their rolls of film and as I got older they’d buy be my own disposable cameras and I took them everywhere! But I started out with an interest in art, It was always the only class I actually enjoyed. But when I got to collage it was clear compared to the rest of my class that my drawing was pretty awful and I wasn’t a very gifted painter either! I’d decided to take a photography class alongside fine art because I knew I liked taking photos but something just really clicked for me and it was like I could finally get all the ideas in my head out and into my work! It just unfolded from there really, I have always been interested in capturing people and moments that reflect them. fashion gives you such a wide creative scope, so it’s the right path to follow right now for me, and I can create the type of work I love.
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â&#x20AC;?The vibe I try and go for is quite relaxed but also a bit cheeky, nothing too serious!â&#x20AC;&#x153; 229
How would you describe your overall aesthetic? I think I’d probably say a little bit gritty, quite raw, I like catching the ‘in-between’ shots, recording more than staging the images. The vibe I try and go for is quite relaxed but also a bit cheeky, nothing too serious!
What the story behind one of your latest editorials “Lights please”? This story was shot on location at a bowling alley and arcade. We wanted to emulate the mood of neon lit bars and girls nights out, the clothing from Bottle Blonde featured 70’s styles and tinsel fabrics which brought a serious party feel to the images! Its that kind of vibe that we wanted to reflect in the shoot, so we kept it quite relaxed and spontaneous.
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Who was your team for this series? What qualities do you look for and/or admire in the people you work with? The shoot was organised by myself and Chloe (Hollingsworth) from Bottle Blonde clothing we have worked together quite a lot and we’re on the same wave length totally so that really helps! We can just throw ideas out there and bounce off each other really easily. The models Mayte Drew and Alex Datcu, I’d also met before. Mayte I shoot with a lot so she knows me and my style quite well and Alex I’d met at a cat walk show I was photographing, but Alex and Mayte had worked together before and so that worked really well because they could really have a laugh and were comfortable around each other. Luckily Mayte’s also trained in make up so she did the make up for us too! We were also joined by Paige Rhianne, who is an amazing videographer and intern at bottle blonde, so she was videoing behind the scenes for us! (https://www.youtube.com/watch? v=F5AYJQpRFjM&feature=youtu.be). The best thing to have in the people your working with is positivity, and being willing to try out ideas. Sometimes when I put ideas out there the team look at me like ‘that sounds crazy’, but I know it’ll make a good shot, so its having that sense of adventure to push things out of the box.
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What are your main inspirations?
Who would you most like to collaborate with Honestly my inspiration comes from all sorts of from within the visual arts and fashion spheres?
places! Sometimes its colours or textures, things I’ve read, songs I’ve heard or things I’ve thought and felt. I get little ideas from all sorts of things and they just grow as I piece them together with other things that inspire me.
This is a difficult one! There are loads! but I think the person I would most LOVE to shoot for would be Ryan Lo! I adore everything he creates so much its all just perfect! And designers like Ashish and Fyodor Golan and magazines like Dazed and Wonderland are some of the others I’d really love to shoot for one day!
Which photographers have been the most influential to you? What upcoming projects we can expect to see There are so soo many artists and individuals that from you? inspire me, photography wise I’d say Mayan Toledano, Valerie Phillips and Saul Leiter are probably my top three at the moment, but its so great with things like instagram its so easy to constantly discover amazing new work! Not even just photography but illustration, poetry and music are all things that I often look to for inspiration.
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At the moment I’m working on a few collaborations with stylists and clothing designers for editorials which is super exciting! And I’m also going to be exhibiting some of my work later on in the year at Free Range at the old truman brewery in London.
What camera did you prefer to use and why? For this shoot I used my Olympus EM-1 because I love its flash and its just so light and comfortable so when Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m climbing around onto things or crawling on the floor it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get in my way! and I knew we were going to be moving around and climbing down bowling alleys so I needed something easy to run around with!
Where do you live and how does it influence your work? I am mainly based in Birmingham, so I think living and growing up in such a big city has certainly influenced my work. When I started photography I did a lot of street photography because there is just a wealth of subjects and locations and they are constantly changing. I think that this comes through in the feel of how I shoot still. Combined with the opportunities its given me to meet and work with so many amazing creatives both in Birmingham and around the country its probably played a big part in what I do.
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”Fashion gives you such a wide creative scope, so it’s the right path to follow right now for me, and I can create the type of work I love.“
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CAR RACE PHOTOGRAPHER NICO STINGHE WWW.STINGHE.COM STYLING CRISTINA FAGIOLI HAIR & MAKEUP & COORDINATION CATTURA MODELS KITTI AND ANNA ORMAN THE LAB MILANO CARS WWW.AUTOSANTASOFIA.IT
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FURS AND COAT MAX MARA SHOES ALESSANDRO PAVAN
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JACKET AND SKIRT YU YAO FUR LOVE MOSCINO EARRINGS GOGO PHILIP
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HAT ALL SAINTS FUR AND COAT MAX MARA TROUSERS ROCCO BAROCCO SHOES ALESSANDRO PAVAN
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FUR MAX MARA HAT A.N.G.E.L.O. VINTAGE EARRINGS TOPSHOP UK
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Photography and Set Design - Harry Cooke Model - Laura Butler @ Named Models Stylist - Bernice So Make Up - Phoebe Taylor using MAC Cosmetics Hair - LinnĂŠa Nordberg Photographic Assistant - Lizzie Hutchinson
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< SHIRT BY JACQUEMUS, DRESS BY COS, CHOKER BY STYLISTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ARCHIVE, SHOES BY BALENCIAGA
TOP BY JUICY COUTURE X VETEMENTS, TULLE SKIRT BY TOPSHOP, PLEATED SKIRT BY MIU MIU, BOOTS BY BALENCIAGA
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259 FISHNET TOP BY STYLIST’S ARCHIVE, DRESS BY WALK OF SHAME, NECKLACE & SOCKS BY STYLIST’S ARCHIVE, FEATHER SLIDES BYBROTHER VELLIES
260 CAPE & TROUSERS BY TARA LEE, RED SCARF BY ISSEY MIYAKE, BOOTS BY BALENCIAGA
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RED FISHNET TOP BY STYLIST’S ARCHIVE, BEIGE FISHNET TOP BY N°21, DRESS BY ANGEL CHEN, BOOTS BY BALENCIAGA
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BEIGE FISHNET TOP BY N°21, TULLE SKIRT BY TOPSHOP, BELT AND CHOKER BY STYLIST’S ARCHIVE
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DRESS BY STEVEN TAI, PANTS BY OFF-WHITE
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POST-PROVINCIAL Photographer Vlad Zorin @vladislavzorin Models from NIKManagement @nikmanagement Makeup Olga Bigel @bigelesha Style Dima Mironov @angela.merkl Hair Alexey Yroslavtsev @yaroslavtsev1
267 SHIRT LOUIS VUITTON
268 TOTAL LOOK LOUIS VUITTON
269 BAGS DIOR, DRESS ASET, SHOES STUART WEITZMAN
270 MEN SHOES GUCCI PANTS GUCCI BAGS DIOR CLOAK DIOR WOMAN SHOES DIOR, DRESS ASET, SHOES STUART WEITZMAN
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277 MEN LEFT TOTAL LOOK DIOR HOMME WOMAN TOTAL LOOK SAINT LAURENT GLASSES SALVATORE FERRAGAMO MEN LOUIS VUITTON
278 11 SHOES STUART WEITZMAN, DRESS ASET
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280 LEFT MEN SHIRT ALISA KUZEMBAEVA JACKET DIOR HOMME SHOES LOUIS VUITTON MEN TOTAL LOOK ALISA KUZEMBAEVA
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Photographer 282 Chrissie Hall
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interview
CHRISSIE HALL PHOTOGRAPHER Chrissie Hall is a director/photographer based in Australia but also a big traveller specialising in advertising, fashion, portraiture and social documentary. She strives to invoke and capture the enigmatic and daring element of her subjects amid surreal environments. Her art emphasises the bond between individuals and their surroundings to produce bold, startling and breath-taking results. 284
Hall has assisted world-renowned photographers Spencer Tunick, Rankin and Diana Scheunemann, and was by mentored by Tracey Moffatt for her first book, Pure and Dirty. Her extensive folio of photographic work questions what is deemed as the norm, bridging the gap between the familiar and the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;.
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â&#x20AC;&#x153;I love colour and surreal worlds. I think of myself more as an artist.â&#x20AC;? 286
Who is Chrissie Hall? Tell us briefly about yourself and how did you get into photography? I create eye catching images that connects the subject matter with the audience. I love colour and surreal worlds. I think of myself more as an artist. When I was about four years old, I won a baby competition and the prize was a camera. My love of photography started from there. In high school I bought a little alien toy from the markets and my friends and I would take it with us and place it in different locations, taking it on little adventures. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the where the story-telling element in my work kicked in (as far as I can remember!). I guess it also just built up over time. At uni my boyfriend and I would take naughty pictures of each other and I would go to the darkroom and develop them. The whole concept of telling stories through imagery just built up and up and became more conceptual and more colourful throughout the years.
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What fascinates you about the art world today? What are your main inspirations? I think the world today is going through an interesting time. So much change and that really influences the art world and the artists around us. I think art today is more expressive than ever before with current issues at hand and that’s great, that’s what art should be. Currently I love Japanese contemporary art. My main inspirations are my dreams, travelling, experiences, nature, art galleries, abandoned locations, and just watching and listening to the world around me.
How would you describe your overall aesthetic? My practice has progressed over the years. It started off quite dark but now it’s really colourful and surreal. Some of my work has got this eerie tone to it, but there is always colour in it. My style is crazy and colourful. Colour is what I’m about.
What is the most difficult or challenging aspect about your career as a photographer? Which particular work are you most proud of and why? The most challenging aspect of my career is… everything? (laughs) It’s a hard path to choose but its very rewarding when things go in your direction. I’m really proud of my art, the shows I do, the people I meet and
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work with, but my all time favorite work would be my show called “Shards of Glitter”. Creatively it was fun to come up with the concepts and really push my mind to go deep and find ideas. Shooting it also was fun because I was working with my retoucher Wassim Bazzi (We run Xray Doll together) and Phoenix Knight, who was the queen of the show. The whole adventure from concept to finish was a beautiful journey and rewarding.
What do you most hope viewers take away from your photographs? I hope they go into a world where they feel comfortable and dream along with me. I hope I inspire them to live their dream and create. I want the viewers to escape the real world for a moment.
“ I want the viewers to escape the real world for amoment.”
”It started off quite dark but now it’s really colourful and surreal.“ 289
“Colour is what I’m about.”
Which photographers have been the most in- Seems you travel a lot. What is your favorite fluential to you? place in the world by now? I’m inspired by surrealist art and one of my major influences is David LaChapelle. He is my favourite photographer of all time. Also, David Lynch films and photography are big influences in my work. The images are so surreal and dark, I think I fit somewhere in between LaChapelle and Lynch.
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Tokyo. I love the colours, the city life, the bright lights, the quirkiness, the craziness, the chaos, the culture and the people. It fascinates me. It’s very unique. I also LOVE Iceland. It’s like you’re on another planet. It’s so beautiful and barren. The cold environment makes you feel connected to nature and with the power of the land.
What qualities do you look for and/or admire in the people you work with? I love my team. The people I work with are creative, colourful and love to experiment. I feel like my team is a big family. We understand each other and they know how my mind works so we are all on the same wavelength. I trust them and they trust me. I look for people who are open, creative and willing to experiment with techniques, lighting, themes, makeup, etc. And nice! Generally, nice and creative people.
Which artists, designers or photographers What upcoming projects we can expect to see would you like to collaborate with? from you? I would love to work with David Lynch, Discount Universe and Damien Hirst. Each artist has such a unique take on the world, I would love to see how their minds tick, what makes them who they are and how they see the world.
I’e got three projects coming up. One is a living alien creature. Which is going to take over the world! (laughs) The second is a couple of books that are in the works. They are based on surreal adventures into the unknown. The third is an exhibition which is called “100 pictures | 100 stories” which will be out in October this year. So stay tuned for some craziness.
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PHOTOGRAPHER THOMAS BABEAU MODEL JULIA@ SILENTMODELSPARIS STYLIST SENA AURELIA HAIRSTYLIST SONIA MESSAOUDI MAKEUP ALEXIANE GUYON 292
antisocial
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JACKET GRETA CONSTANTINE SHORT ELISABETTA FRANCHI
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BOMBER BONPRIX DRESS GUY LAROCHE
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JACKET ASOS PANT WEILL
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BOMBER/ DRESS GRETA CONSTANTINE
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i know a modern woman Photography & Styling by SoJin PARK Make-up & Hair by Sara BUSAN Model Tori BRAUN from @theLabmodels Milano
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OUTWEAR VINTAGE FROM VINTAGEAFROPICKS / PANTS BY OZBEK
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PANTS BY LEVIS/ LACE TOP BY CHANEL VINTAGE
T-SHIRT BY LEVIS/ SKIRT BY REAL MONGOLIAN TRADITIONAL SKIRT FROM VINTAGEAFROPICKS/ CAP BY UMBRO
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JACKET BY OZBEK VINTAGE FROM VINTAGEAFROPICKS/ PANT BY ICEBERG/ NECKLACE BY STYLIST OWN
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T-SHIRT BY LEVIS/ SKIRT BY REAL MONGOLIAN TRADITIONAL SKIRT FROM VINTAGEAFROPICKS/ CAP BY UMBRO
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JACKET BY OZBEK VINTAGE FROM VINTAGEAFROPICKS/ PANT BY ICEBERG/ NECKLACE BY STYLIST OWN
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JACKET BY OZBEK VINTAGE FROM VINTAGEAFROPI CKS/ PANT BY ICEBERG/ NECKLACE BY STYLIST OWN
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HAT BY FILA 80â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S VINTAGE FROM VINTAGEAFROPICKS/ BRA BY AMERICAN APPAREL/ JUMPSUIT FROM VINTAGEAFROPICKS
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HAT BY STYLIST OWN/ SUNGLASSES BY SUPER RETRO FUTURE/ STRIPE SHIRT BY PLAY COMME DES GARÃ&#x2021;ONS/ VEST BY FILA/ LEATHER SKIRT BY JEAN PAUL GAULTIER/ BAG BY FREITAG
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TRENCH COAT BY MOSCHINO BOUTIQUE FROM VINTAGEAFROPICKS/ HAT BY OZBEK FROM VINTAGEAFROPICKS/ GLOVES BY 20â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S VINTAGE
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n e sses Photographer Katie Burdon Stylist Jessica Tarbard Makeup Artist Selina Rana Assistant Alyce Burton Model Franny @ Elite Model Management
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TOP & DRESS (ON TOP) SHAO YEN TROUSERS - SOLACE LONDON
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DRESS - CECILIE BAHNSEN BOOTS - KOTA GUSHIKEN
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JUMPER & WAISTBAND LAUREN JIN DRESS - SOLACE LONDON SHOES - TOGA PULLA
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DRESS - NAYA REA GLOVES - RIINA O NECKLACE - MAYU
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TOP & TROUSERS ROBERTS WOOD SHOES - VINTAGE
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Photographer Nico Stinghe Model Iva from the Lab Milano Stylist Silvia Macchioni Make up Ginevra Calie
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YOGA IN
CHINATOWN
INTERVIEW WITH NICO STINGHE
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NICO STINGHE Milan-based photographer, filmmaker, architect and multi-media artist, Nic loves anything glam, the absurdity of things, the magic of dressing up and putting on makeup. His art is provocative, and high in emotion. Disturbing at times, his photos and short films are often charged with tragedy and present a direct challenge to the viewer. Who is this girl? Is this for real? Inspired by the fashion industry, Nic often asks his models to participate in the shoot by making their own costumes. This adds realness, we are not modeling haute-couture here...are we? Nic likes people who have something to show, something to say,... a story to tell. This is where crisis and beauty meet, where aesthetics merge with fashion and theatrality. (by Anne-Marie Gregory for NY Arts Magazine)
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SUNGLASSES DKNY TOP STYLIST MADE SKIRT ANNAKIKI
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PANTS AND SHOES ANNAKIKI JACKET FILA
What the story behind your editorial «Yogav in Chinatown»? How much time the shooting process took? Any funny moments?? I liked a lot Iva when i saw her images, she’s great. And Chinatown is a very interesting area in every city, not the centre of it but the ar-
eas that are around it, the borders. A lot of funny moments from when we decided to stop and I told Silvia we can open the suitcase here and make the looks, her face was funny , how people looked at us, the owner of the restaurant where we ended up was scared first, curious after, annoyed and finally she put us out.
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COAT ANGELIA AMI DRESS AND SKIRT ANNAKIKI SUNGLASSES MOSCHINO SHOES STYLIST OWN
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Who was your team for this series? What qualities do you look for and/or admire in the people you work with? I worked with the makeup artist and stylist. I like it when they are smart and put that simple element that changes it all.
What camera did you prefer to use and why? Any really, sometimes pocket cameras they are lighter . I have a fuji it does double exposures.
What fascinates you about the art world today and what are your main inspirations? Nothing really, or i know very few of it.
How would you describe your overall aesthetic? Very personal.
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"FASHION WILL NEVER BE A SERIOUS DOMAIN" What is the most difficult or challenging aspect of being a photographer in 2017? Maybe I’m wrong but it’s all about a certain style now, so not being part of a certain style would be the good thing. but then trying not to be part of a certain style is wrong; the good thing is that digital photography allows you to test a lot of things and adjust easily , it’s also the negative part mixed with internet it’s all the same all over the world.
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"I DON'T LOOK FOR FAMOUS MODELS, I DON'T MIND THEIR BEAUTY OR UGLINESS I LIKE TO FEEL THE ENERGY OF THE PERSON AND GET INTO SOMETHING TOGETHER BY A SHOOT" 342
How do you think, fashion is spheres? Maybe some famous an important means to explore models? some social and political issues or other big ideas? I don’t look for famous models, Fashion will never be a serious domain. it’s too egocentric and snobbish so the only thing it can touch is aesthetics and a bit of narrative. Is as commercial as Turkish markets in Berlin but with glamorous players.
Who would you most like to collaborate with from within the visual arts and fashion
i don’t mind their beauty or ugliness I like to feel the energy of the person and get into something together by a shoot. It applies to all I think, any medium or person it’s about that link.
What upcoming projects we can expect to see from you? Lets see.
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DIOR WWW.DIOR.COM DR. MARTENS WWW.DRMARTENS.COM ESCADA WWW.ESCADA.COM
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VICTOR WEINSANTO WWW.WEINSANTO.COM VIVIENNE WESTWOOD WWW.VIVIENNEWESTWOOD.COM PARI DESAI WWW.PARIDESAI.COM PAUL&JOE WWW.PAULANDJOE.COM
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brand_list MARC JACOBS WWW.MARCJACOBS.COM MARNI WWW.MARNI.COM MASSIMO DUTTI WWW.MASSIMODUTTI.COM MAX&CO WORLD.MAXANDCO.COM MOSCHINO WWW.MOSCHINO.COM MOZH MOZH WWW.MOZHMOZH.COM MOTEL MOTELCLOTHES.COM MUSETTE MUSETTE.RO
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