Just Magazine Autumn-Winter 2019 by Just Magazine

www.chen2gjewellery.com

MAGAZINE A PLEASANT SENSE OF FASHION INJECTION

Photographer Frida-My Creative Direction and Styling Martijn Maagdenberg Art Director Merlin Moritz Hair and Make up Vera Dirkx Model David van Driel from Ulla Models Post Karin Eriksson

issue 14

www.chen2gjewellery.com

a a i z i a y a d o O i n g r z a a e e L e o e a a a a

contributors contributors

A n d r e a R e i n A n n a l i s L u c e n t A l m a R o s a A l i c e C a n t o n B o b b y C o r i c F r i d a - M G e o r g i E l d e r H a c k f o r K a t i e B o r r a z z L Ă&#x2030; L u c i a n o U r r u t M a r t i j M a a g d e n b e r M e t a C u n d e M e r l i n M o r i t N o b u m a s T a n a k S h a k i l a T h e b T o m G a l l T L A B E R a f f a e l G r o s s R o i s i n O H a r Y a n A b o l i s h i n Y u l i P l a k h o t n i k o v

this issue

this issue 6

BOY OH BOY TOM GALLE SINCERA

SHAKILA THEBE …AND KOKO I AM ME...

SHE AND HER MANY SOULS

THERE ISN´T TIME FOR SHAME LEO

CHOOSE YOUR IDENTITY NOVEMBER MEMORIES T LABEL

MORAL CODING. MARTIN META CUNDER PRETTY UGLY

VENTRICULAR EXTRASYSTOLES

Frida-My

interview

Bobby Corica

interview

Yulia Plakhotnikova

Nobumasa Tanaka

Raffaele Grosso

102

Luciano Urruti

112

interview

124

Andrea Reina

138

Katie Borrazzo

148

interview

160

Georgia Elder-Hackford

172

Annalisa Lucenti

182

interview

192

Roisin O Hare

204

Yana Abolishina

perverze.jp @florentinalight

@florentinalight

www.just-magazine.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF & FOUNDER Ekaterina Dokuchaeva ART DIRECTOR Nikita Eliseev EDITORIAL editorial@just-magazine.com ADVERTISING info@just-magazine.com

taya

@m.zapya

Lovely time of the day everybody! If you reading this you are most likely already at this nice party called Just Magazine. Well, why we all came to this point where we all get together in a print edition that let’s be honest, printed so poorly? “- Where is my sponsorship wtf I’m so ashamed when I think of the print version of myself..” Truly the purpose of art is something unbeknownst at the core and it is all about to please and to release our senses. On the verge of 2020, it feels so right to discard all the excess, grew wings and fly away from all of the holidays’ distractions and finally do something more, something for yourself, to make yourself an ultimate gift of whatever you so desperately desired for so long… So let’s take some time to figure it out and then let’s go for it. If not now then..why the hell is not now? We neglect our inner guidance so much nowadays, but the ability to feel what is right for you, what light’s you up is such a gift and we all can make ourselves this gift to allow finally getting the inner voice. And that is actually the fanciest one, not the Cybertruck preorder. This is what guides us to all the beauty, all the nicest, funniest and inspiring, this is the force of creation and joy, we’d rather appreciate it, then neglect or even hate. Don’t know what to talk with y’all about this time, really, just feel the need to numb the shit-talking, numb the shit mind. My contact list look like the yellow pages I don’t save these niggas names, I remember faces and I ain’t fuck you in a minute, why you still claim me? Bet if he ever hit this pussy he gone still stalk me and if you got a new bitch why you still callin’? And I look better than that hoe that’s why she made you block me I like to show for them haters talkin’ bad about me. Tryin hard to find a flaw, but you still watchin’ Hey! Freak nasty motherfucker kiss with the tongue I don’t wanna fuck the nigga if he ain’t hung he a lotta fun if he eat it night one if he got a lotta funds, I’ma hit it like, «Uh!» money make me cum, tryna get me some lookin at these numbers on my check like uh versace hottie, uh creole mami, huh she gone fuckin’ run but the Stalli giddy up freak, freak, freak nasty go a couple rounds and leave that dick up in the casket I ain’t wanna to take the nigga from you, it just happened you know I ain’t cum boy, if you had to ask me freak, freak, freak nasty lick on my hand, then I put it in his pants get to playing with that cock and make that motherfucker bam! And I walk and I talk like a pimp ‘cause I am pussy wet diamonds on my neck I’m a hot girl, so I make these niggas sweat if you fuckin’ with me, you’re fuckin’ with the best if he say he a dog, I’ma treat him like a pet Jimmy John neck, told him give it to me quick talkin’ like you love me? Nobody Keith Sweat rich bitch pussy, I can take you outta debt rich bitch pussy only come for a check, aah We unluckily could not afford to take a good deep pause before the last final touches for making it solid and clear, but that’s okay, we hope you’ll all agree that fashion today is made on speed only.

e g a s s e

Collections having deadlines, art projects are the same way..? Is it a work or is it a pleasure, how

to eliminate that negatively gleaming aspect of existence and whether at all. This thought came such a hefty one and there is so much to come. Anyways, we hope you’re having a really good time wherever you are right now! This holiday edition including boys and..girls, not so many this time, really special guest and tons of creativity, so if you prepared yourself to this issue to be incredibly great, then multiply expectations by thousands. Stay sexy and don’t get murdered!

Florentina Leitner

@florentinalight

Boy Oh Boy PHOTOGRAPHER FRIDA -MY @_FRIDA_MY_ CREATIVE DIRECTION AND ST YLING MARTIJN MAAGDENBERG @MARTIJN ART DIRECTOR MERLIN MORITZ @MERLINMORITZ HAIR AND MAKE UP VERA DIRKX @VERADIRKX MODEL DAVID VAN DRIEL @DAVIDVDRIEL FROM ULLA MODELS @ULLAMODELS POST K ARIN ERIKSSON @K ARINERETOUCH

14 15

SUIT MANS CONCEPT JENNI ( LEFT ) TOP AND PANTS HYUN MI NIELSEN VIA BOON PRESS, EARRINGS LOEWE, SHOES VINTAGE LAIDE ( RIGHT ) SHIRT JOSHUA MILLARD, DRESS WILLIAM FAN, EARRINGS STYLISTS OWN, SHOES MARNI VIA NIGHTBOUTIQUE MALI ( SITTING ) DRESS COLORS OF BENETTON, VEST TEDDY GLICKMAN VIA BLACKBIRDS, SHOES VANS

KNIT, VEST & TROUSERS CARLOTA BARRERA, BOOTS BOTTEGA VENETA, RINGS ALL BLUES

COAT PONDER.ER

< TOP CARLOTA BARRERA, TROUSERS RICK OWENS, RINGS ALL BLUES KNIT EXTREME CASHMERE, TROUSERS DUARTE, RINGS ALL BLUES >

20 TOP CARLOTA BARRERA, TROUSERS RICK OWENS

TOP LOEWE

COAT PONDER.ER

25 KNIT, VEST & TROUSERS CARLOTA BARRERA, BOOTS BOTTEGA VENETA, RINGS ALL BLUES

TOM GALLE INTERVIEW

I suppose we’re just gonna copy the info from bio on http:// tomgalle.online/ This is not an easy thing to introduce this guy. And it’s truly worth it visiting, by the way. Belgian-born, Berlin-based Tom Galle is the epitome of the contemporary web artist. (NY based now..?) His work is saturated with the very essence of hyper-digital nowness. He has created an online persona that is at once supremely infatuated with and deeply questioning of the profound impact that the internet has had on all of our bodies and brains. Galle creates art that operates on two distinct levels: it is philosophical and political but also instant and accessible, effortlessly walking

the line between academic art and internet meme cultures. In this way, his dark humor-laced practice can be seen as a telling indicator of the nature of successful art in the internet (and post-internet) age. - Christian Petersen, ARTsland. Tom has worked for clients such as Nike, Google, Adidas, Toyota, Netflix, MTV and has won numerous industry awards including Cannes Lions, D&AD, Webby, One Show, and more. So impressive, ironical and relevant art you’ll never find elswhere. The quintessence of modern lifestyles and human nature. We’d rather call Tom Galle a guy of the entire decade, not a 2019 olny. God bless the Internet ))

Hi Tom, we’re finally composed an interview for you! So, how are you? What was on your mind lately? How is everything going? Good! Thanks for asking :) Do you remember your very first art project? Very much. It’s still one of my favorites. I tagged a vimeo URL on a wall in Brooklyn. When surfing to the URL, you’d see the video of me tagging the URL on the wall. See here: http://graffitiloop.com/ All of your works like having solid statements in every aspect of human life. What’s your main hidden theme? There is none. My work is very much influenced by whatever happens on the internet paired with personal experiences in everyday life, including the tension that comes with working ‘corporate’ jobs.

Fuck inspiration, what’s your favorite meal? Belgian (french) fries, something that looks like this:

As an artist, how do you think was it okay to eat that $120 000 banana? I think both the piece and the ‘performance’ were equally boring. But yes, I think you are allowed to eat really boring art pieces. What is your secret behind being so handsome, smart and funny? I wish my crush asked me this. Your sense of humor is inimitable, how did you decide to start your @zero.emission.memes.2025? Were you sad or the opposite? I started it at a moment where I was starting to get a bit tired of the ‘influencer/self-branding parody’ instagram stuff combined with an overall saturation of aesthetics and ideas on the internet. Everything seems to be reproduced and reappropriated at such a fast pace now - especially by brands - which has been having a corrosive effect on artistic ideas in general. I felt like I started seeing the same things over and over in my feed, almost an endless mash-up of aesthetics, where any form of novelty loses its value - including my own work. So I started zero.emission.memes as an exercise detached from my main work and to help me rediscover what I’m interested in without being tied to any previous choices or expectations from anyone. I ended up making and reposting a lot of memes on issues that I relate to. In a way, this page acts as a moodboard of ideas and subjects I’m interested in right now, which helps a lot with developing a new layers in my work. Overall, I’m getting really interested in working around the ‘death of aesthetics’ both as a documentation of my personal experience and an attempt to understand what is left there for artists that cannot be co-opted by brands, corporations and big names.

How much time did you spend on the internet to always be on point? Too much.

If not Instagram, then what? Gaming as a creative platform, maybe Twitch. I have been playing with the idea of gamifying memes and thinking of exploring this direction more. How do you think technology changes and social media is affecting art and fashion nowadays? The feed is killing the artistic value for many. An art piece by an up and coming artist could be integrated’ in Virgil’s latest off-white ‘fashion’ show, almost immediately ‘swallowing’ the artist. An artists’ visual language could be completely reappropriated by some multinational brand for its ad campaign. We see it all the time. There’s no temporal ‘timeline’, people don’t know where ideas started. Not that artists don’t get their inspiration from somewhere, but there’s a difference between continuing telling a story, and just blatantly copying it. Who would you most like to collaborate with from the visual arts or any else spheres if any? Demna Gvasalia. I know it sounds cliché but his latest shows were just so on point. What’s next for you? Are there any upcoming projects you’re working on at the Moment? I’m working with some friends on a really cool video piece, a sort of automated branding/ advertising/marketing exercise that will be shown in March 2020 in Berlin. Other than that I have some new memetic visuals in mind that I should get going. Thanks for the reminder. How do you plan to spend the rest of 2019? With friends and family :)

@tomgalle

PHOTOGRAPHY and DIRECTION Bobby Corica @bobbycorica MODEL Dre @drebius.maximus from @duval.agency STYLIST Tory P @iamthetreasurehunter

TOP PAR MOI @PAR___MOI PANTS EMMA FRANK @EMMA.FRANKCOM EARRINGS SACRE FLUX @SACREFLUX NECKLACES RAINBOW DREAMZ VINTAGE @RAINBOWDREAMZVINTAGEBOOTS GLOBAL VINTAGE COLLECTIVE @GLOBALVINTAGECOLLECTIVE

SINCERA

VINTAGE SHIRT

OP PROVOCATIVE CO @PROVOCATIVECO SKIRT GLOBAL VINTAGE COLLECTIVE @GLOBALVINTAGECOLLECTIVE PANTS ALISON PYRKE @ALISONPYRKE EARRINGS SACREFLUX @SACREFLUX PHENOTYPE NECKLACE BOBBY CORICA @BOBBYCORICA BOOTS MODELS OWN JACKET PHILIPP PLEIN >

SUIT GLOBAL VINTAGE COLLECTIVE @GLOBALVINTAGECOLLECTIVE PEAR EARRING, CHOKER AND NECKLACE SACREFLUX @SACREFLUX DIAMANTE EARRING PROVOCATIVE CO @PROVOCATIVECO

TOP AND PANTS RAINBOW DREAMZ VINTAGE @RAINBOWDREAMZVINTAGE BOOTS GLOBAL VINTAGE COLLECTIVE @GLOBALVINTAGECOLLECTIVE EARRINGS PROVOCATIVE CO @PROVOCATIVECO NECKLACE COMPANY OF STRANGERS @COMPANYOFSTRANGERS

TOP KINGWAY ZHANG @KINGWAYZHANG KILT GLOBAL VINTAGE COLLECTIVE @GLOBALVINTAGECOLLECTIVE RED TULLE SKIRT GRACIE FORSHAW @GRACIE_4SURE CHOKER VIVIENNE WESTWOOD @VIVIENNEWESTWOOD PHENOTYPE EARRINGS BOBBY CORICA @BOBBYCORICA DIAMANTE EARRING PROVOCATIVE CO @PROVOCATIVECO GOLGI (BODY) RINGS BOBBY CORICA @BOBBYCORICA BOOTS MODELS OWN

SUIT GLOBAL VINTAGE COLLECTIVE @GLOBALVINTAGECOLLECTIVE PEAR EARRING, CHOKER AND NECKLACE SACREFLUX @SACREFLUX DIAMANTE EARRING PROVOCATIVE CO @PROVOCATIVECO STOCKINGS STYLISTS OWN BOOTS MODELS OWN

TOP PROVOCATIVE CO @PROVOCATIVECO SKIRT GLOBAL VINTAGE COLLECTIVE @GLOBALVINTAGECOLLECTIVE PANTS ALISON PYRKE @ALISONPYRKE EARRINGS SACREFLUX @SACREFLUX PHENOTYPE NECKLACE BOBBY CORICA @BOBBYCORICA BOOTS MODELS OWN

TOP PAR MOI @PAR___MOI PANTS EMMA FRANK @EMMA.FRANKCOM EARRINGS SACRE FLUX @SACREFLUX NECKLACES RAINBOW DREAMZ VINTAGE @RAINBOWDREAMZVINTAGEBOOTS GLOBAL VINTAGE COLLECTIVE @GLOBALVINTAGECOLLECTIVE

TOP KINGWAY ZHANG @KINGWAYZHANG KILT GLOBAL VINTAGE COLLECTIVE @GLOBALVINTAGECOLLECTIVE RED TULLE SKIRT GRACIE FORSHAW @GRACIE_4SURE CHOKER VIVIENNE WESTWOOD PHENOTYPE EARRINGS BOBBY CORICA @BOBBYCORICA DIAMANTE EARRING PROVOCATIVE CO @PROVOCATIVECOGOLGI (BODY) RINGS BOBBY CORICA @BOBBYCORICA BOOTS MODELS OWN

< ASTRAKA OF LONDON FUR, VINTAGE JEWELRY

SHIRT GLOBAL VINTAGE COLLECTIVE @GLOBALVINTAGECOLLECTIVE BIKE SHORTS (WORN UNDERNEATH) PRIX WORKSHOP @PRIXWORKSHOP PANTS STEPHANIE CASSANO @AKIDWITHIDEAS HAT STYLISTS OWN EARRINGS AND NECKLACES SACREFLUX @SACREFLUX

TOP GLOBAL VINTAGE COLLECTIVE @GLOBALVINTAGECOLLECTIVE BIKE SHORTS GRACIE FORSHAW @GRACIE_4SURE PANTS KINGWAY ZHANG @KINGWAYZHANG NECKLACES AND EARRINGS PAR MOI @PAR___MOI GOLGI (BODY) RINGS (WORN THROUGHOUT) BOBBY CORICA @BOBBYCORICA RINGS SACRE FLUX @SACREFLUX BRACELET RAINBOW DREAMZ VINTAGE @RAINBOWDREAMZVINTAGE

@shakila.thebe

INTERVIEW

SHAKILA THEBE 50

A London based designer with a powerful cultural background, graduated from London College of Fashion (2017). Shakila Thebe’s design incorporates a thorough, elaborate and conceptual process. She focuses on the idea of the juxtaposition between the poetic evocation of the clothes and the ephemeral nature of diaspora identities. Shakila has been intrigued by the idea of how everyday clothes can evoke a poetic state and had made a huge impact on her BA’s collection. Each piece was created with the elements of the abstract and weirdness of the wild nature. Shakila Thebe often combined the skills of experiential research, an appreciation of craftsmanship skills and an intensive pattern cutting with a great eye for the details.

Hi Shakila, tell us briefly about yourself and how did you discover your interest in fashion design? Hi Just Magazine Team! Thanks for this wonderful opportunity. My name is Shakila Thebe. I am a womenswear graduate from London College of Fashion. I am based in south London. I come from Nepal since my dad moved to UK few years ago. I’m actively involved creating my pieces now and then. To sound cliché, it was when I went to this trip to the huge garment factory where my mom used to work as a project manager when I was a kid. I think since then I started making silly clothes or jokingly make hand sew stuff. I didn’t really have the knowledge of the culture of fashion/ fashion design, the appreciation, and the good/bad side of it until a bit later. I went to LCF that’s where I learned a lot about the technicality of the design and the impact it can make today. Who or what has had the greatest impact on your creation? It has to be the people around me and my experiences discovering my own self.

"THE BRAND'S DNA IS FLUID, ABSTRACT DESIGN WITH REWEARABILITY ELEMENT, GENDERLESS."

What is the concept behind yourlatest collection and how would you describe your brand’s DNA?

finding what would work best for your vision and where do you gaining your ideas?

The ‘Non-Seasonal collection’ is very personal and it’s a kind of revisited line from my final major project “I am made from an old you” thatI did for my final year at LCF. The concept behind the collection is the ephemeral identities. It’s about where I come from and re-locating me in the new place. So I wanted to reflect everything significant about my childhood in my research. Therefore, you will see lots of elements from children’s wear. My aim is to make a piece to be season less or trendless. It’suniquely made and one-off piece because it’sre-wearable despite the season or trend. Every piece was made from the recycled materials and the dead stock rolls of fabric. I had a whole van donated fabric cut off stock from the supplier. My brand’s DNA is fluid, abstract design with rewearability element, genderless. The core value of my style has been the same but simultaneously it has definitely evolved during the time.

My research process is very ritual and intentional but the results have never been deliberate that’s something I always thrive. It is thorough and the process practices the technique and skills with different approach. My intention is to achieve what my design process has led me. Anything that is intriguing. My ideas/concept is mostly experiential.

Could you briefly explain your overall process in

What do you want your clothes to say about the wearer? Reflect who they are and how they are feeling- the mood is important. What sets aside Shakila Thebe from the other brands that are on the scene at the moment? The background and beautiful culture I come from, my personal experiences mostly. My designs are very influenced by that and no one can take that away. I try to reflect that in my design so I can connect with people who share the same values.

"THE CORE VALUE OF MY STYLE HAS BEEN THE SAME BUT SIMULTANEOUSLY IT HAS DEFINITELY EVOLVED DURING THE TIME."

What material do you most like to work with? Nothing in particular. Everything is beautiful once you know how to play with it. I would like to work with the materials thatI canrecycle and upcycle. Which items are your personal favorite and who would you like to see wearing them? Who is your dream client to dress? Every piece is my favourite, but to pick one it has to be Mesh 3d Wire Top look inspired by the fishing handmade materials that is used in Nepal. I would love to see Meredith Monk wearing it and performing Lullaby vs. Night. That would be a dream. Who would you like to collaborate with from within the visual arts and fashion spheres if any? There are so many international creatives I would like to collaborate with. Currently I am collaborating with the Director/3D engineer Hyunsu Jeon aka PPICCU. We did a short video together so I would love to do few more and there’s a concept between us that is brainstorming/brewing at the moment. I love Ekhaus Latta’s work too. I’ve been following them since the beginning☺ What’s your next collection to be like? Good question-definitely an on-going process of my design aesthetic. I’m currently looking at lots of knitwear techniques. I had a very little interest in the knitwear until I saw the process of it in south London factory that I visited. It is so fascinating how they are well made and intricate together. I’m currently in touch with knitwear team in Nepal. They are amazing-everything issourced locally from Himalayas and people are working and well paid. So let’s see☺

How do you plan to spend the rest of 2019? Lots of resting, binging with friends and family (binging The Crown). I would like to do some activities too because that’s how I started this year;so that maybe I could start a new tradition in that way. I will go bouldering somewhere in south during the Christmas week. That’s probably the best time if you want some quiet time because half of the Londoners will be away haha.

â&#x20AC;Ś AND KOKO

Photo Yulia Plakhotnikova @yplakhotnikova Style Moonface Production @moonface.production Make up & hair Varvara Dediukhina @varvarad Photo assistant Zeba Knizel @zebaknizel

63 BLOUSE BY JUST-A-DETAIL JACKET BY COS PANTS GANNI SKIRT BY BIMBA Y LOLA BOOTS BY VAGA BOND

BLAZER VINTAGE EARRINGS AND NECKLACES ALIGHIERI

< DRESS BY MIRO MISLJEN BOOTS BY COMME DES GARÃ&#x2021;ONS COLLAR BY COS

> BLOUSE BY JUST-A-DETAIL JACKET BY COS PANTS GANNI SKIRT BY BIMBA Y LOLA BOOTS BY VAGA BOND

JACKET BY MIRO MISLJEN BLOUSE BY JIN DE SI TIGHTS BY CALZEDONIA SOCKS BY UNIQLO BOOTS BY CAMPER CAP BY ACCESSORIZE BROOCH BY BREAK HEAD RING BY BIMBA Y LOLA

JACKET BY YANA MIRONOVA LEGGINS BY LEGGUNS BOOTS BY COMME DES GARCONS

69 DRESS AND SCARF BY MIRO MISLJEN TIGHTS BY MONKI BOOTS BY COMME DES GARÃ&#x2021;ONS

DRESS AND SCARF MIRO MISLJEN TIGHTS MONKI BOOTS COMME DES GARÃ&#x2021;ONS

DRESS BY MIRO MISLJEN TIGHTS BY CALZEDONIA BOOTS BY CAMPER KNEE SOCKS BY WOOLFORD BRACELET VINTAGE

JACKET BY YANA MIRONOVA LEGGINS BY LEGGUNS BOOTS BY COMME DES GARCONS

DRESS BY ACNE STUDIOS JEANS BY COS BOOTS BY CAMPER SCARF VINTSGE NO NAME

SHOES BY MM6 MAISON MARGIELA, OTHERS VINTAGE

model Rita @sabiatama8686 photo Nobumasa Tanaka @tnknbms styling Yuriko Miyake @yurikomiyake make KOTO @kotoekikuchi hair Tatuya Suzuki @tatsuyasuzuki

I AM ME...

KNIT AND SKIRT BY IRENE, TOP VINTAGE

ALL VINTAGE

KNIT AND SKIRT IRENE TOP VINTAGE, SHOES COS

SHOES BY MM6 MAISON MARGIELA, OTHERS VINTAGE

ALL VINTAGE

JACKET BY IRENE, OTHERS VINTAGE

DAENA IS WEARING JACKET AND PANT BY FAUCON FRIEDLANDER SHOES BY RED VALENTINO

JACKET BY IRENE, OTHERS VINTAGE

86 COAT ERIKA CAVALLINI

S H E A N D H E R M A N Y S O U L S photographer Raffaele Grosso @raffgrosso stylist Alice Cantoni @cantonialice mua Francesca Vinciguerra @fravinciguerra model Adel Cavendish @adel_cavendish Fabbrica Milano Management @fabbrica.milano location Milan and Marina di Pietrasanta (Tuscany), Italy

DOWN JACKET ERIKA CAVALLINI LEATHER CORSET IANUA

BODY IANUA WHITE TOP SARTORIA 74

DRESS 1PSUTDIO EARRINGS MANGO

91 DRESS ALESSANDRO DE BENEDETTI LEATHER COAT STYLISTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S OWN

92 DOWN JACKET ERIKA CAVALLINI LEATHER CORSET IANUA

93 SWEATER PIETRO PIANFORINI

COAT ERIKA CAVALLINI SHOES KALLISTEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

DRESS LUDOVICA AMATI SHOES KALLISTEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

DOWN JACKET IANUA TOP LUDOVICA AMATI PANTS LED LAB

BLAZER MARYLING BLACK CORSET IANUA

99 SHIRT AND DRESS LUDOVICA AMATI

100 COAT ERIKA CAVALLINI SHOES KALLISTEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

BLAZER BORA AKSU DRESS HORO BELT PERSONAL ARCHIVE SHOES KALLISTEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

101

102

103

Photographer Luciano Urruti @lucianourrutiph Stylist Jimena Yeber @jimeyeber and Sofia Orionte @notmadeforlovee Model Lucas Assenza @lucasassenza Agency AR Models @armodelsagency Special Thanks Tomas Calevo @tomas_calvelo and Lucas Mesplatere @remembermyart

THERE ISNÂ´T TIME FOR SHAME

104

< PANTS ZARA CROPTOP H&M

> JACKET RALPH LAUREN

105

106

107

> JACKET RALPH LAUREN GLOVES STYLIST’S OWN

< PANTS H&M VEST RALPH LAUREN HAT STYLIST’S OWN

108

109

110

PANTS ZARA TOP BURBERRY

PANTS ZARA CROPTOP H&M

< BODYSUIT MAISON EUREKA PANTS STUNNING LURE

111

http://www.leo-official.com/

INTERVIEW LĒO is a Belgium-based brand directed by the designers Leonneke Derksen (Royal Academy of Antwerp), Joëlle Laederach (FHNW) and sales director Matthias Medaer. The label established itself in 2016 as an answer to the need of intelligently crafted garments for real women. LĒO defines itself somewhere between the imaginary and the spirit of a generation, where various worlds, eras, movements, atmospheres and subcultures are placed together to result in an atypical modern silhouette. The SS20 collection entitled ‘TRIP’ represents the ultimate freedom and power of human being eliminating borders of any kind, blurring the line between luxury and day-to-day outfits through striking combinations of fabrics, featuring the iconic «glowing» shirt and the same pants, more on the pages further.

112

113

Tell us briefly about LĒO, who is behind it and how did first get into clothing design? LĒO established in 2016 and is since then directed by Leonneke Derksen and Joëlle Laederach. The two designers met in Paris where Leonneke Derksen and Matthias Medaer founded the company and moved to Brussels after that. For both Leonneke and Joëlle fashion was an evidential choice and the experiences they share from the time working for houses like Balenciaga, Chloé and Carven formed the desire for independence. Talk us through your latest collection. What was the inspiration behind the SS20 and how would you describe your brand’s DNA? In the SS20 ‘TRIP’ collection we explore the different interpretations of a journey and explain the duality between the spiritual and the material. The collection speaks about a personal, unique experience that is created in a space between instant pleasure and profound mindfulness. LĒO stands for a strong, contemporary and surprising silhouette with an awkward twist. Which garments are your personal favorite and who would you like to see wearing them? Our favorites are the flame pieces because of their surprising effect and the tie dye pieces because of their uniqueness of each garment. We would like to see strong, independent individuals with the courage to be awkward wearing them, like Billie Eilish, Jazzelle (uglyworldwide) or Kali Uchis.

114

115

116

What themes do you explore with your designs? All our themes explore certain experiences which broaden the horizon. Whether these experiences are imagined or actually lived fades into the background when they materialise into garments and translated through image. Can you talk us through the manufacturing process a bit – what sort of materials did you use and how did you source them? LĒO produces in Belgium, Portugal and Italy.The fabrics are sourced at fairs even though over time the personal archive of fabric swatches grew so much that it became a main source. We pick fabrics for their quality and innovation - each collection is carefully balanced in its variety of materials. Super

soft rib jersey, surprising denim jacquards, unique tie dyes, inventive technical fabrics etc. Most of our suppliers are based in Europe and Japan, where we have found the best qualities. How do you think technology changes and social media is affecting fashion nowadays? Technology and social media reprogram humans minds and affect their behaviour in many ways. There will be new consumers with new ‘needs’. Every generation has its own paradigms which shape culture. Fashion will always embrace changes and at this point the result of this is the interplay of fashion and technology. In particular this shows for now in the requirement of seamless communication and omni channel marketing strategies.

"In the SS20 TRIP collection we explore the different interpretations of a journey and explain the duality between the spiritual and the material.."

What sets aside LĒO from the other brands that are on the scene at the moment? It’s this particular awkward twist that makes LĒO unique. We do everything with passion and we love mixing different inspirations, eras, communities etc to create an atypic silhouette with a touch of nostalgia.

117

"ALL OUR THEMES EXPLORE CERTAIN EXPERIENCES WHICH BROADEN THE HORIZON. "

What do you feel needs to change within the fashion industry? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s partly the way of consumption that has to change towards more quality and less quantity. At the same time it is important, especially for a young brand, to keep on questioning certain usual structures like seasons and take risks to abandon them. Who would you like to collaborate with from within the visual arts and fashion spheres if any? We are always open to any kind of collaboration national and international - until now every collaboration we have done has been enriching, for example artwork collaboration with Uber and Kosher, music Mamiko Motto and Blu Samu, video Yaqine Hamzaoui. We always love to collaborate with people who have a strong vision or style and that are not categorized by one discipline , for example Frederik Heyman who mixes arts and fashion very uniquely or John Yuyi who has a very strong idea of image.

118

119

120

How do you plan to spend the rest of 2019? working :) â&#x20AC;Śwe might happen to end up at one or two parties as well. You can stay tuned on our Instagram Leo_official_be for updates, we will open up our webshop again very soon with some amazing new pieces.

121

122

123

124

CHOOSE YOUR IDENTITY

Photographer and Art Director Andrea Reina @ookeeii Fashion Stylist Michele Catelani @michelecatelani Fashion Designer Michele Catelani @michelecatelani Model Simone Ticci @ssfigato Photo Assistant Giuliano Corimbi @giuliano_corimbi

125

126

PULLOVERS ZARA PANTS MICHELE CATELANI SHOES AMBUSH X CONVERSE JACKET STYLIST ARCHIVE

PANTS ZARA TOP BURBERRY

127

128

SHIRT ZARA PANTS MICHELE CATELANI JACKET STYLIST ARCHIVE

129

SHIRT ZARA PANTS MICHELE CATELANI JACKET STYLIST ARCHIVE SHOES AMBUSH X CONVERSE

130

COAT AND DRESS MICHELE CATELANI HAT STYLISTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S OWN

131

132

PULLOVER ZARA PANTS MICHELE CATELANI JACKET STYLIST ARCHIVE

COAT AND DRESS MICHELE CATELANI HAT STYLISTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S OWN

133

SHIRT ZARA PANTS MICHELE CATELANI JACKET STYLIST ARCHIVE SHOES AMBUSH X CONVERSE

134

135

COAT AND DRESS MICHELE CATELANI

136

137

NOVEMBER MEMORIES 138

Photographer Katie Borrazzo katieborrazzo.com @katieborrazzo Stylist Isma Andrade @isma.andrade Makeup Natalia Lรณpez de Quintana @duchessnatalia Hair Christina Beman @harleydoeshair Model Paula Sanz @ Silent Models NY @paula__sanz

139

DRESS / DONNA ZHONG PONCHO / MONOSUIT SHOES / PER FIDEM GLOVES / WING + WEFT GLOVES

TOP JUNYA WATANABE

140

141

COAT SAM EDELMAN JUMPSUIT (UNDERNEATH) ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SHOES PER FIDEM

DRESS / ALEXANDER MCQUEEN TOP (UNDERNEATH) / CAMOUFLAGED JACKET / NUEQUE SHOES / PER FIDEM

TOP AND SKIRT ROBERTS WOOD SOCKS STYLISTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S OWN

142

143

DRESS / L. F. MARKEY BELT / IMAGO-A GLOVES / WING + WEFT GLOVES

DRESS ROBERTS WOOD

JACKET SAM EDELMAN TOP (UNDERNEATH) FRAQAIR JUMPSUIT (UNDERNEATH) ALEXANDER MCQUEEN EARRINGS TAPLEY

144

145 DRESS L. F. MARKEY JACKET COMME DES GARÃ&#x2021;ONS SHOES PER FIDEM

146

JACKET COMME DES GARÃ&#x2021;ONS PANTS PRADA GLOVES WING + WEFT GLOVES

147

HTTPS://TLABEL.UK/

148

INTERVIEW

T LABEL is a luxury clothing brand, specialising in creating â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;romantic wearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; inspired by traditional and old-fashioned stories of love and lust. The brand has an emphasis on combining feminine shapes and fabrics with dramatic elements inspired by fencing wear. T LABEL is easily recognisable from their warm palettes, use of textile manipulation and ongoing aims to create wardrobe favourites out of sustainable fabrications and techniques. Each T LABEL collection narrates a story that carries you along with to another world, speaking in a thin magical voice straight with your inner self, resembling everyone substantial. Makes you feel a fresh wind on your skin on a warm day, pleasures the senses with a sound of raindrops filled with pure nostalgia, simultaneously revealing delightful future adventures.

149

Tell us briefly about the brand, who is behind it and what is your creative background? T LABEL is a bit like my time machine. The brand allows me to dive into the past, discover new artists and transfer myself to specific moments in time. It can be recognised through textile manipulation and upcycling techniques, the fabrics we use are either natural or brought from deadstock suppliers. I have titled the genre of clothing ‘Romantic Wear’ - garments are considered as layerable pieces, of which they can often be dressed up by night and toned town in the day depending on the occasion. Warm palettes are a consistent theme, hints of moody, dried up flower-like colourways always unintentionally creep into each collection. T LABEL was founded in my graduating year at London College of Fashion where I later went on to work for luxury fashion houses like Alexander McQueen, ACNE Studios and ERDEM. Working at McQueen taught me to enhance my romantic aesthetic and gave me the skills to research and sample in a very specific, artistic way. This combined with my work at ACNE in Stockholm had influenced block colour palettes and a sense of wearability to my designs also. Do you remember the very first time you came with the idea of your designs? My Mum and Dad had quite different music tastes so I was raised on a mix of Madonna (by Mum) and Motown (my Dad), there’s a lot of movement, melody, repetition and drama that I would dance and sing to. When I was a teenager my friends and I would often go into charity shops. They were super cheap in my home area. Back then you could go with £5 and leave with bags that overflowed. At school I never realised or knew that I wanted to be a fashion designer... I was artistic but I didn’t know how to leverage my passions in the right way.

Gradually, I became more inspired by vintage clothing, music, dance and older cinema and could see this subconsciously seeping through into my design. There wasn’t a specific moment when I felt I defined the style of the brand, it was more a gentle unwinding of my inner-self over time with external creative influences that created the vision. What is the concept behind your latest collection and how would you describe your brand’s aesthetic? My latest collection, entitled Fruit Gangsters, came from exploring the attitudes of females in the 20s - then creatively and playfully applying a T LABEL lens for the wives of mobsters. The inspiration came from an era I find myself revisiting often, I wanted to capture this juxtaposition between a tougher, strong character and combine with a more playful subject of fruits that are made up of fuzzy textures, knots and twists and remain robust around the edges. After leaving my job at McQueen and moving away from London a few months ago to go full-time with the brand, I wanted to visually interpret this moment in my life which was to focus on a strong and independent character and also remind myself to still have fun with it. The concept of this collection felt right and relevant to my life today; I always feel it is important to focus energy and hard work into a subject which is close to your heart. What is the most inspiring thing for you? A I am most inspired by films. I find such easy escapism through film and cinema. When I was studying at college and first met my boyfriend, we used to go to The Electric Cinema in Birmingham a lot - which is the oldest working cinema in the country. That specific year was filled with epic releases such as Birdman, The Grand Budapest Hotel and Whiplash. Following that, I got heavily into soundtracks, theatre, costume, set design and explored

"I BELIEVE COMMUNICATION IS ONE OF THE HEALTHIEST THINGS YOU CAN DO,

THEREFORE WITH OF MY AIMS IS TO CREATE PLATFORMS OF ENGAGEMENT WITH MY PIECES."

150

151

152

153

154

How similar is your personal style to the designs you create? My everyday style is very casual so when Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m working I want to feel comfortable - which means layers. However, I love the feeling of dressing up, I think the contrast is really exciting when you can be so relaxed in your clothes in one half of the day and then by night you are a whole new character. What do art and fashion mean to you and what has been your biggest achievement in this direction so far? Representation, belonging and collaboration. My biggest achievement has been finding a tight team around me. I found nearly all of the people who have helped me grow T LABEL through Instagram and they have all become some of my closest friends. They understand what the brand represents and what creative ideas to explore and disregard; this means I also trust their criticism. In terms of the hands-on part of creating the press collections, the team is small so it is nice to have amazing stylists, fabric developers and pattern cutters I can go to for honest advice. I believe creators can search most of their life trying to find a team of talented people across disciplines who are creatively aligned to their vision. I am incredibly grateful for these people.

155

In the early 80s, the ad agency BBH was responsible for the classic Levi’s advertisement which showed rows after rows of white sheep all pointing in one direction and one black sheep facing in the opposite direction, the accompanying copy read ‘WHEN THE WORLD ZIGS, ZAG’. This bold and gutsy ad was an illustration to show rebelliousness in an aspirational way. I use this as inspiration for many T LABEL garments. I hope they can be considered as talking points - whether through the design itself or the journey of the individual piece. The discussion and reaction of wearing T Label pieces is something I’m always intrigued by and I hope I’m creating pieces for life’s ‘ZAGGERS’. I believe communication is one of the healthiest things you can do, therefore with of my aims is to create platforms of engagement with my pieces. What fascinates you about the art world today? Which designers or artists have been the most influential to you? One of the most influential artists to me today is Kanye West. I appreciate his curiosity. To discover, challenge and pioneer. When I was studying, one of the most important things I learned was to be selective. You can have many great ideas and be excited to use them all at once but it’s knowing how to refine these ideas, selecting what is most relevant to what you are aiming to express in that moment and time. Kanye’s whole life is his brand identity and it is so carefully executed and considered. To be involved in music, films, design, architecture, religion and tailor all of this, presenting it together refreshingly and cohesively is unique. In my eyes, he has created a clear visual representation of a culture that many people want to be a part of and I respect this massively, it’s very exciting creatively. Other influences include the likes of Alex Turner, Wes Anderson and Solange. I love the comical yet romantic lyrics Turner pieces together, the way Wes combines colour and lighting with his unique cinematography and direction and Solange’s use of dancing and collaboration with emerging talents. How are you hoping your designs will evolve in the future? Where can we purchase your brand items? From following reactions to collections that we’ve released at T LABEL, it has been amazing to see core trend develop that has become synonymous with the brand. Our Gloves, the Florence Bra and the balloon-like panelled sleeves that are in the reoccurring shapes of the Lawes Jacket have all been very popular and we hope to create many similar shapes using this as the template. In the future, my aim is to take these pieces more international. We have recognised an exciting audience emerging in Berlin, Milan, New York and Los Angeles and currently looking for conceptual stores to work with in order to make products more accessible in these areas. At the moment products can be ordered directly - made to order, or purchased from London-based pop-up spaces and with our first stockist, the Lisbon-based concept store Auné.

156

"MY BIGGEST ACHIEVEMENT HAS BEEN FINDING A TIGHT TEAM AROUND ME.."

Is there a type of person you have in mind when designing your garments? How much of your collection met your expectations?

157

Who would you like to collaborate with from within the visual arts and fashion spheres if any? I would love to work with a musician on their stage/performance outfits. Musicians have such an impact on the fashion industry now and you can see how the two industries and creatively compatible. I think it would be an amazing thing for a singer/performer to be recognised for their own signature style and to be included in the design and curation process of what they wear on stage. Additionally, I would be open to collaborating with a sports brand as its such an important part of our wardrobes. From athletic to leisure to loungewear, I love the adaptability of sports clothing. I always imagine a pair of our classic Ray Gloves with ruffles twisting around the arm created in deadstock fabrics from a certain brand that uses three stripes that wrap around the arms. One day, maybe! What’s your next collection to be like? Electric… How do you plan to spend the rest of 2019? Seeing as many friends and loved ones before the new year. I have a feeling 2020 is going to be a big year for myself and the brand so I plan on finding ‘me’ time which will involve Aesop masks and looking for holidays.

158

"THERE WASN'T A SPECIFIC MOMENT WHEN I FELT I DEFINED THE STYLE OF THE BRAND, IT WAS MORE A GENTLE UNWINDING OF MY INNER-SELF OVER TIME WITH EXTERNAL CREATIVE INFLUENCES THAT CREATED THE VISION."

@ _TLABEL

159

BIKINI TOP BORROWED FROM A FRIEND, WHITE SHOES FROM PUBLIC DESIRE, SKIRT BORROWED FROM A FRIEND, PRETTYLITTLETHING BODYSUIT AND PINK FEATHER TRIM DUSTER SOURCED FROM DEPOP, SUNGLASSES ALSO FROM DEPOP, AN ASOS BELT, AND GLASSONS CHORD ROMPER SOURCED FROM DEPOP, MODELS OWN BOOTS.

160

Moral Coding. This Editorial was shot by Georgia Elder-Hackford [@shrinetolove, @_guttergirl] and features talent Tom Buckingham [@tomfuckingham] and Sandra Aketo [@sandra_aketo], with makeup by Amelia Rafferty [@maisonmylk] and creative direction, styling, and editing by Imogen Rafferty [@eyeforimogen, @notmidgehadley]

161

AN ASOS BELT, AND GLASSONS CHORD ROMPER SOURCED FROM DEPOP

162

163 A CHOKER FROM DEPOP, BLACK TWO-DOLLAR SHOP SHORTS, STYLISTS OWN DRESS, AND A BIKINI TOP BORROWED FROM A FRIEND, WHITE SHOES FROM PUBLIC DESIRE

CHOKER FROM DEPOP, WHITE SHOES FROM PUBLIC DESIRE, BLACK TWO-DOLLAR SHOP SHORTS, STYLISTS OWN DRESS, AND A BIKINI TOP BORROWED FROM A FRIEND.

164

KIKI RIKI TULLE PANTS BOUGHT SECOND HAND ON DEPOP AND MODELS OWN BOOTS.

DRESS AVAVAV FIRENZE BOOTS RESCHIA EARRING MARIA BLACK RING SARA ROBERTSSON

165

VINTAGE TOPS SOURCED FROM SECOND-HAND STORES, ASOS BELT AND BIKINI TOP SOURCED FROM A FRIEND, LOVISA RHINESTONE CHOCKER NECKLACE, SNEZHANA NYC WAIST BAG, WILLEMWORLDWIDE LEG CUT JEANS AND PURPLE PANTS FROM DEPOP

166

BIKINI TOP BORROWED FROM A FRIEND, WHITE SHOES FROM PUBLIC DESIRE, SKIRT BORROWED FROM A FRIEND, PRETTYLITTLETHING BODYSUIT AND PINK FEATHER TRIM DUSTER SOURCED FROM DEPOP, SUNGLASSES ALSO FROM DEPOP

167

168

VINTAGE TOP SOURCED FROM A SECOND-HAND STORE, BIKINI TOP SOURCED FROM A FRIEND, LOVISA RHINESTONE CHOCKER NECKLACE, SNEZHANA NYC WAIST BAG, PURPLE PANTS FROM DEPOP, FUSED FOOTWEAR RECYCLABLE 3D PRINT SHOES

169

170

CHOKER FROM DEPOP, WHITE SHOES FROM PUBLIC DESIRE, BLACK TWO-DOLLAR SHOP SHORTS, STYLISTS OWN DRESS, AND A BIKINI TOP BORROWED FROM A FRIEND, KIKI RIKI TULLE PANTS BOUGHT SECOND HAND ON DEPOP AND MODELS OWN BOOTS

171

172

PANTS MARINA YATCHING SHIRT PULLANDBEAR JACKET SIR HENRYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HAT DICKIES SHOES DR. MARTENS

MARTIN

Photographer Annalisa Lucenti Martin represented Be.o Styling by Claudia Licitra Make up Elisabetta Timperanza Hair by Manuel Sammito Creative director Be.o

173

JACKET MANGO HAT BERSHKA

174

PANTS MARINA YATCHING SHIRT PULLANDBEAR JACKET SIR HENRYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HAT DICKIES

175

FOULARD CHANEL PANTS BERSHKA JACKET NEW LOOK SHIRT PULLANDBEAR SHOES DR. MARTENS

176

BLAZER SANDRA KPODONOU, TOP JULIA KOŚCIEŃSKA, TIES VINTAGE, BOXERS SYLWIA ROCHALA

FOULARD CHANEL SHIRT PULLANDBEAR

177

PANTS MARINA YATCHING SHIRT PULLANDBEAR JACKET SIR HENRYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HAT DICKIES SHOES DR. MARTENS

178

179

PANTS BERSHKA T-SHIRT H&M

180

181

FOULARD CHANEL PANTS BERSHKA JACKET NEW LOOK SHIRT PULLANDBEAR SHOES DR. MARTENS

182

INTERVIEW

META CUNDER @METACUNDER

183

Tell us briefly about yourself and how did you discover your interest in shoe design? I’m a Slovenian avantgarde shoemaker-artisan. I moved to London at 18 to study shoe design - and it seems like I’m staying a while. I was always artistic and had an interest in creating things, but it wasn’t until I was a teenager that I started spending every free hour of my time looking at shoes, buying shoes and finding crazy Camden Town platforms online – you couldn’t get them in Slovenia. When I was applying to art and fashion universities in the UK I googled ‘shoe design university’ as a joke and was ecstatic to find the BA Footwear Design course at UAL. I went for the interview and the rest is history. What does those shoes mean to you on a personal level? Is it your soul impersonations of some kind? Shoes have always had a special place in my heart. I love the way they make me feel, the way they change how I walk and stand… When I buy shoes for myself, I tend to give them names - they definitely have personalities and memories attached to them. I wanted to convey that quality in a physical form – creating shoes that are alive.

184

185

"MY DESIGN OBJECTIVE IS MARRYING THE FANTASY WITH FUNCTIONALITY."

186

Is there a type of person you have in mind when designing your shoes? Who is your dream client to shoe? I would say my ideal client is someone who appreciates shoes. Most of my creations demand confident characters who are not afraid to stand out, but I feel that love for shoes is essential. What is the concept behind your latest collection and how would you describe your brand’s DNA? As my graduation project, I developed an alternative footwear brand called Varmint. Loosely based on ‘vermin’, the word ‘varmint’ was discovered during research of the word ‘creature’ and its synonyms. The brand creates fantastical pieces of footwear with its own creaturely aesthetic such as exaggerated blinking eyes, 3D printed teeth and tongues - visually stunning and disturbing at the same time. The brand offers daring high heels and platforms in men’s and women’s sizes, championing inclusivity in fashion. What was/ is your biggest inspiration? It is hard to pinpoint an inspiration in a classical sense of the word as I feel it changes constantly, sometimes daily. I would say that my drive to create can be summed up by a quote from an anonymous responder to my research survey. The question was: “What do you look for in a shoe?” and the answer: “Something that you could wear a trash bag with, and the shoes would still make you/the outfit look AMAZING.” I want to create that shoe.

187

Can you talk us through your design process a bit – what are the key considerations? My design objective is marrying the fantasy with functionality. The dream and concept come first. At the research stage, I gather as much inspirational imagery as possible and try to work on the idea and mood holistically. I put emphasis on primary research and own material sourcing. I tend to sketch and collage a lot to come up with new and unexpected combinations - happy accidents often turn out to be your best ideas. The second consideration is functionality. I have a background in orthopaedic shoemaking, where functionality is 99% of the shoe. I take into account the materials and their capabilities as well as the shape of the shoe and its components, especially when it comes to high heels and platforms (which I love!). Shoes are intense. If you stitch a dress wrong, sure it will look a bit off or won’t fit, but if you put a heel together wrong… someone might trip and die! So the materials and making process definitely play a big part as I want to make sure all my shoes are safe (and ideally comfortable) to walk in. What has been your biggest achievement so far? Definitely winning the Cordwainers National Student of the Year Award this June with my graduate collection - Varmint. It is a national competition between the best students of the 3 shoe design universities in the UK. Winning the award was an amazing end to my 4 years at UAL. The continuous support of the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers and the professional network I gained as a result of winning are irreplaceable. How do you plan to spend the rest of 2019? I’m going to spend the rest of 2019 back home in Slovenia with my friends and family. Despite all the challenges of my career, finding a good balance between work and personal time has always proved to be one of the hardest things to do. Happy holidays!

188

"WHEN I BUY SHOES FOR MYSELF, I TEND TO GIVE THEM NAMES"

189

190

Who do you see yourself collaborating with from within the visual arts and fashion spheres? Right now the direction of the collection is very much focused on performance art and the drag scene. I would absolutely love to collaborate with Vander Von Odd (@vandervonodd), a genderqueer drag queen based in LA, whose surreal dark creations send chills down my spine. What’s next for you? Are there any upcoming projects you’re working on at the moment? I am currently doing my internship at Nicholas Kirkwood, a luxury shoe design brand based in London. I’m excited to learn about the inner workings of the industry so I can apply them to growing my brand and improving as a designer. I have some exciting projects and exhibitions coming up, but I can’t tell you much more at this point.

191

PRETTY UGLY

Director & Stylist: Roisin O Hare @roisino_ Photographer: Alma Rosaz @almarosaz Hair: Ellie Bond @elliebondhair MUA: Laura O Nea @laura.onea Models: Kyara Simone @kyarasimone Lilith Luna @exxplicity_

192

BODYSUIT (INCL.GLOVES) AND BLOUSE TIM STOLTE @TIMSTO BAG SCOTRIA (VIA SINISTER SISTERS) @SCOTRIA SHOES SWEAR LDN @SWEARLONDON EARRING ZOHRA RAHMAN @ZOHRA_RAHMAN

193

TRACKSUIT ALEXANDER MARTIROSSIAN @ALEXANDERMARTIROSSIAN EARRING SAF SAFU @SAFSAFU SOCKS HAPPY SOCKS @HAPPYSOCKS

194

TOP WITH STRINGS CHARLIE MCCOSKER @CHARLIEMCCOSKER VEST CHARLIE CONSTANTINOU @CHARLIECONSTANTINOU JEANS DB BERDAN @DBBERDAN BOOTS CHARLIE MCCOSKER @CHARLIEMCCOSKER/ TWO-PIECE/HARNESS & BOOTS CHARLIE MCCOSKER@CHARLIEMCCOSKER

195

BODYSUIT (INCL.GLOVES) AND BLOUSE TIM STOLTE @TIMSTO BAG SCOTRIA (VIA SINISTER SISTERS) @SCOTRIA SHOES SWEAR LDN @SWEARLONDON EARRING ZOHRA RAHMAN @ZOHRA_RAHMAN

BODYSUIT ZOPHIE ROBINSON @ZOPHIEROBINSON SHOES MISGUIDED @MISGUIDEDCO

196

JACKET CMNM

197

TOP ALEXANDER WANG EARRINGS GAVIRIA

HAT, DRESS & COAT ANGEL CHEN @ANGELCHENSTUDIO/ SHOES SWEAR @SWEARLONDON

198

BODYSUITS ZOPHIE ROBINSON @ZOPHIEROBINSON SHOES MISGUIDED @MISGUIDEDCO

199

DRESS NISSE GLOVES TIM STOLTE @TIMSTO TIGHTS PAMELA MANN @PAMELAMANN BAG: SCOTRIA @SCOTRIA

TRACKSUIT ALEXANDER MARTIROSSIAN @ALEXANDERMARTIROSSIAN EARRING SAF SAFU @SAFSAFU SOCKS HAPPY SOCKS @HAPPYSOCKS BODYSUIT ZOPHIE ROBINSON @ZOPHIEROBINSON SHOES MISGUIDED @MISGUIDEDCO

200

KNIT TOP BY CMNM

201

DRESS NISSE GLOVES TIM STOLTE @TIMSTO TIGHTS PAMELA MANN @PAMELAMANN BAG: SCOTRIA @SCOTRIA SHOES TOPSHOP HAT, DRESS & COAT ANGEL CHEN @ANGELCHENSTUDIO/ SHOES SWEAR @SWEARLONDON

202

BODYSUIT (INCL.GLOVES) AND BLOUSE TIM STOLTE @TIMSTO BAG SCOTRIA (VIA SINISTER SISTERS) @SCOTRIA SHOES SWEAR LDN @SWEARLONDON EARRING ZOHRA RAHMAN @ZOHRA_RAHMAN

203

Photographer Yana Abolishina @yanaiseating Styling by Billy Nigel Hair & Make Up Tanya Marques Model Rue Charlotte

204

CORSET GIAMI, JEANS VINTAGE WILLI WEAR

205

TOP MYSTIQUE BOUTIQUE TIGHTS COM DES GARCON

206

BLOUSE GIAMI BIKE SHORTS VINTAGE TOP BAOYU

207

208

< JACKET GIAMI SKIRT GIAMI GLASSES GIAMI

> BLOUSE GIAMI

209

210

DRESS DAISY.DAISY

211

212

CORSET GIAMI, JEANS VINTAGE WILLI WEAR

TOP MYSTIQUE BOUTIQUE

213

JACKET GIAMI SKIRT GIAMI GLASSES GIAMI >

< CORSET GIAMI, JEANS VINTAGE WILLI WEAR

214

215

DRESS DAISY.DAISY

216

217

COSH WWW.COSHPARIS.COM COMME DES GARCONS WWW.COMME-DES-GARCONS.COM COS WWW.COSSTORES.COM CORALIE MARABELLE WWW.CORALIEMARABELLE.COM CELINE WWW.CELINE.COM C.E WWW.CAVEMPT.COM CHLOE WWW.CHLOE.COM

HARDWARE LONDON WWW.HARDWARELDN.COM HERMES WWW.HERMES.COM HERITAGEFLOSS HERITAGEFLOSS.COM HORO HORO24KT.COM HOUSE OF HOLLAND WWW.HOUSEOFHOLLAND.CO.UK H&M WWW.HM.COM HUGO BOSS WWW.HUGOBOSS.COM HUMMEL HUMMEL.NET HYUN MI NIELSEN WWW.HYUNMINIELSEN.COM I.AM.GIA IAMGIA.COM IHNN WWW.IHNN-DESIGN.COM IRO WWW.IROPARIS.COM ISSEY MIYAKE WWW.ISSEYMIYAKE.COM IYV & OAK IVY-OAK.COM IANUA IANUACLOTHING.COM

JEFFERY WEST WWW.JEFFERY-WEST.CO.UK JEAN PAUL GAULTIER WWW.JEANPAULGAULTIER.COM JONATHAN ASTON WWW.JONATHANASTON.COM JOSHUA MILLARD JOSHUA-MILLARD.COM JOSEPH WWW.JOSEPH-FASHION.COM JUST-A-DETAIL JUST-A-DETAIL.COM JUSTINE CLENQUET WWW.JUSTINECLENQUET.COM KEITA MARUYAMA WWW.KEITAMARUYAMA.COM KIKI RIKI KIKIRIKI.COM KOTOHAYOKOZAWA KOTOHAYOKOZAWA.COM KOCHE WWW.KOCHE.FR

KURT GEIGER WWW.KURTGEIGER.COM MAISON LYFT MAISONLYFT.COM MAISON EUREKA WWW.MAISONEUREKA.DE MAISON MARGIELA WWW.MAISONMARGIELA.COM MAGDA BUTRYM WWW.MAGDABUTRYM.COM MANS CONCEPT WWW.MANSCONCEPTMENSWEAR.COM MANGO SHOP.MANGO.COM MARYLING WWW.MARYLING.COM MARNI WWW.MARNI.COM MARIOS MARIOS.EU MAX MARA WWW.MAXMARA.COM

brand_list

AMERICAN APPAREL STORE.AMERICANAPPAREL.NET AMBUSH WWW.AMBUSHDESIGN.COM AMIRI AMIRI.COM ANGEL CHEN WWW.ANGELCHEN.COM

DALA EIDO WWW.DALAEIDO.COM DANNY REINKE DANNYREINKE.DE DALMATA WWW.SHOPDALMATA.COM DB BERDAN WWW.DBBERDAN.COM DEATH BY DOLLS WWW.DEATHBYDOLLS.COM DE FURSAC WWW.DEFURSAC.FR DOLCE & GABBANA WWW.DOLCEGABBANA.IT DIDDI STUDIO WWW.DIDDISTUDIO.COM DR. MARTENS WWW.DRMARTENS.COM DUMITRASCU WWW.DUMITRASCU.DE DUARTE WWW.DUARTE.COM ELISABETTA FRANCHI WWW.ELISABETTAFRANCHI.COM ELEANOR BALFOUR WWW.ELEANORBALFOUR.COM ELLEME ELLEME.COM ENAMI MADEINENAMI.COM EMILIO CAVALLINI WWW.EMILIOCAVALLINI.COM ESAU YORI ESAUYORI.COM ESCADA WWW.ESCADA.COM ESCORPION ESCORPION.COM ERIKA CAVALLINI ERIKACAVALLINI.COM EUDON CHOI WWW.EUDONCHOI.COM EXTREME CASHMERE WWW.EXTREME-CASHMERE.COM FALKE WWW.FALKE.COM FENDI WWW.FENDI.COM GANNI WWW.GANNI.COM GEORGE MORAND WWW.GEORGES-MORAND.FR GORMAN WWW.GORMANSHOP.COM GINA BERENGUER WWW.GINABERENGUER.COM GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI WWW.GIUSEPPEZANOTTI.COM GIANVITO ROSSI WWW.GIANVITOROSSI.COM GLOBAL VINTAGE COLLECTIVE GLOBALVINTAGECOLLECTIVE.COM

ACNE STUDIOS WWW.ACNESTUDIOS.COM ADIDAS WWW.ADIDAS.COM

ANAIS JOURDEN JOURDEN.CO ALIGHIERI ALIGHIERI.CO.UK ALYSI WWW.ALYSI.IT ASICS WWW.ASICS.COM ALL BLUES ALLBLUES.SE ALESSANDRO SHOP.ALESSANDROALBANESE.COM ALEXANDRA HAKIM ALEXANDRAHAKIM.CO ALEXANDER WANG WWW.ALEXANDERWANG.COM AURÃ&#x2030;LIE FONTAN AURELIEFONTAN.COM BADURA BADURA.PL BALENCIAGA WWW.BALENCIAGA.COM BOBBY CORICA SGUSCIO.COM BORA AKSU BORAAKSU.COM BIMBA Y LOLA WWW.BIMBAYLOLA.COM BIJOU R.I SHOP.BIJOOU.COM BITE WWW.BITESTUDIOS.COM BASERANGE WWW.BASERANGE.NET BELLA FREUD WWW.BELLAFREUD.COM BOTTEGA VENETA WWW.BOTTEGAVENETA.COM BLANCHE BLANCHECPH.COM BRIAN ATWOOD WWW.BRIANATWOOD.COM BY MALENE BIRGER WWW.BYMALENEBIRGER.COM BURBERRY BURBERRY.COM BULGARI WWW.BULGARI.COM CAMO WWW.CAMOFACTORY.COM CALVIN KLEIN WWW.CALVINKLEIN.US CALZEDONIA CALZEDONIA.COM CAMPER WWW.CAMPER.COM CHARLIE CONSTANTINOU CHARLIECONSTANTINOU.CO.UK CHRISTINA SEEWALD WWW.CHRISTINASEEWALD.COM CONVERSE CONVERSE WWW.CONVERSE.COM COLLUSION WWW.COLLUSION.COM

218

219

untishold.com

220

untishold.com

SAF SAFU SHOP.SAFSAFU.COM SCOTRIA SCOTRIA.COM SAVOARFER WWW.SAVOARFER.COM SERGIO ROSSI WWW.SERGIOROSSI.COM SNEZHANA NYC SNEZHANA.NYC SHIORI SUZUKI WWW.STUDIOSHIORISUZUKI.COM SFERA WWW.SFERA.COM

LACOSTE WWW.LACOSTE.COM LAURENCE DACADE WWW.LAURENCE-DACADE.COM LAVISH ALICE LAVISHALICE.COM LES GIRLS LES BOYS LESGIRLSLESBOYS.COM LOEWE WWW.LOEWE.COM LORENA PERAZZO WWW.LORENAPERAZZO.COM LORDS AND FOOL WWW.LORDSFOOLS.COM LF MARKEY LFMARKEY.COM LOU DE BETOLY WWW.LOUDEBETOLY.COM VENCOUVERT VENTCOUVERT.COM LINDA FARROW INT.LINDAFARROW.COM LEVIS WWW.LEVI.COM LYKS INFO@LYKSOFFICIAL.COM

WAREHOUSE WWW.WAREHOUSE.CO.UK WEEKEND STUDIO WWW.THEWEEKENDSTUDIO.CO.UK WEN PAN WENPANSTUDIO.COM WENO WWW.WENOSTUDIO.COM WESTLEY AUSTIN WWW.WESTLEYAUSTIN.COM WILDFOX WWW.WILDFOX.COM WILLIAM FAN WWW.WILLIAMFAN.COM WOLFORD WWW.WOLFORDSHOP.COM WOOYOUNGMI WOOYOUNGMI.COM WON HUNDRED WWW.WONHUNDRED.COM YOHEI OHNO YOHEIOHNO.COM YVES SALOMON WWW.YVES-SALOMON.COM YVES SAINT LAURENT WWW.YSL.COM ZADIG & VOLTAIRE WWW.ZADIG-ET-VOLTAIRE.COM ZARA WWW.ZARA.COM ZOHRA RAHMAN ZOHRARAHMAN.COM

TIBI WWW.TIBI.COM UGG WWW.UGG.COM URBAN OUTFITTERS WWW.URBANOUTFITTERS.COM UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON BENETTON.COM UNIQLO WWW.UNIQLO.COM

STELLA MCCARTNEY WWW.STELLAMCCARTNEY.COM STUDIO PRETZEL WWW.STUDIOPRETZEL.COM STUNNING LURE STUN-L.COM STUSSY WWW.STUSSY.COM SYLWIA ROCHALA WWW.SYLWIAROCHALA.COM SWEAR WWW.SWEAR-LONDON.COM TEDDY GLICKMAN TEDDYGLICKMAN.COM THE KOOPLES WWW.THEKOOPLES.COM THE BEAST BRAND THEBEASTBRAND.COM TOPSHOP WWW.TOPSHOP.COM TORY BURCH WWW.TORYBURCH.COM THOMAS BARONNE WWW.THOMASBARONE.COM TOMMY HILFIGER TOMMY.COM

L72 WWW.L72.EU LUDOVICA AMATI LUDOVICAAMATI.COM VANS VANS.COM VIVIENNE WESTWOOD WWW.VIVIENNEWESTWOOD.COM VELVETEEN VELVETEENCLOTHING.COM VAGA BOND WWW.VAGABOND.COM VERSACE WWW.VERSACE.COM VERONIQUE LEROY WWW.VERONIQUELEROY.COM VENTRONE CHRONICLES WWW. VENTRONECHRONICLES.COM SAM EDELMAN WWW.SAMEDELMAN.COM SANKUANZ WWW.SANKUANZ.COM SANDRO SANDRO-PARIS.COM SALVATORE FERRAGAMO WWW.FERRAGAMO.COM SALLY LAPOINTE SALLYLAPOINTE.COM SARTORIA 74 WWW.SARTORIA74.COM

3.1 PHILLIP LIM WWW.31PHILLIPLIM.COM PUBLIC DESIRE WWW.PUBLICDESIRE.COM RAF SIMONS RAFSIMONS.COM RALPH LAUREN WWW.RALPHLAUREN.COM REJINA PYO REJINAPYO.COM REKISAMI WWW.REKISAMI.COM ROBERTO CAVALLI WWW.ROBERTOCAVALLI.COM ROBERTS WOOD WWW.ROBERTS-WOOD.COM ROBERI AND FRAUD ROBERIANDFRAUD.COM RIGOON RIGOON.COM RICK OWENS WWW.RICKOWENS.EU RIVER ISLAND WWW.RIVERISLAND.COM RYAN LO WWW.RYANLO.CO.UK

brand_list MASSIMO DUTTI WWW.MASSIMODUTTI.COM MAX&CO WORLD.MAXANDCO.COM MIMII WWW.ATELIERMIMII.COM MILO MARIA WWW.MILOMARIA.COM MISGUIDED MISGUIDEDCO.COM MYSTIQUE BOUTIQUE WWW.MYSTIQUEBOUTIQUENYC. COM MELISSA WWW.MELISSA.COM MOSCHINO WWW.MOSCHINO.COM MUSETTE MUSETTE.RO MURRAL MURRAL-TOKYO.COM MULBERRY WWW.MULBERRY.COM MISSONI WWW.MISSONI.COM MRZ WWW.MRZ-OFFICIAL.COM MYRIAM DENGUEZLI WWW.MYRIAMDENGUEZLI.COM NIELS PEERAER SHOP.NIELSPEERAER.COM NIKE WWW.NIKE.COM NINE WEST WWW.NINEWEST.COM NTMB WWW.NTMB.IT NEW LOOK WWW.NEWLOOK.COM NOA NOA WWW.NOANOAUK.COM NORMA KAMALI WWW.NORMAKAMALI.COM NEW YORKER WWW.NEWYORKER.DE OLYA KOSTERINA WWW.OLYAKOSTERINA.COM & OTHER STORIES WWW.STORIES.COM PAMELA MANN PAMELAMANN.CO.UK PAMEO POSE PAMEOPOSE.COM PAUL&JOE WWW.PAULANDJOE.COM PAULINE DUJANCOUT WWW.PAULINEDUJANCOURT. CO.UK PAOLO ERRICO WWW.PAOLOERRICO.COM PONDER.ER WWW.PONDER-ER.COM PHOEBE ENGLISH WWW.PHOEBEENGLISH.COM POPPY LISSMAN POPPYLISSIMAN.COM PHILIPP PLEIN WWW.PLEIN.COM PLISSIMA PLISSIMA.COM PINKO WWW.PINKO.COM PIETRO PIANFORINI WWW.PIETROPIANFORINI.COM PRADA WWW.PRADA.COM PREMIATA WWW.PREMIATA.IT PRETTYLITTLETHING WWW.PRETTYLITTLETHING.COM

221

www.leo-official.com

222