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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF & FOUNDER Ekaterina Dokuchaeva GRAPHIC DESIGNER Nikita Eliseev CONTRIBUTORS Nadia Umammi Kristine Kurnosova Igor Klepnev Sonya Petrova Rosie Wood UOT / Lena Maximova Maxim Baev Rachael Shephard & Vicky Chambers Anastasia Zhirkova
Alina Latypova
EDITORIAL editorial@just-magazine.com
ADVERTISING info@just-magazine.com
www.just-magazine.com
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PLEASANT SENSE OF FASHION INJECTION
Cover artist Kristine Kurnosova
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Photography Maxim Baev
this issue
FW 15 14. Fashion trends 2015 BLACK SUEDE 28. Ekaterina Dokuchaeva NADIA UMAMMI 42. interview SENSE OF WIND 58. Kristine Kurnosova KLEPNEV 68. Igor Klepnev B-ANNET 76. interview GINGER HARVEST 90. Sonya Petrova THE FIVE SENSES 106. Rosie Wood UOT LENA MAXIMOVA 116. interview NOIR 132. Maxim Baev STRIPED AFFAIR 148. Rachael Shephard & Vicky Chambers SERENE FLOOR 160. Anastasia Zhirkova DISMAL REFLECTIONS 168 Alina Latypova
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ISSUE 02
AUT
UMN 2015 12 | just.magazine
WELCOME TO THE SECOND ISSUE OF JUST MAGAZINE. AS SUMMER TURNS INTO AUTUMN ONCE AGAIN, WE ARE BRINGING YOU ANOTHER AMAZING PIECE OF ART AND FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY. IN THIS AUTUMN 2015 ISSUE COVERED BY TALANTED FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER KRISTINE KURNOSOVA, WE ARE GLAD TO PRESENT STORIES BY PHOTOGRAPHERS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD AND INTERVIEWS OF GREAT DESIGNERS. HERE IS OUR INSPIRATION OF ORIENTAL WIND. SEASON CHANGES AND WE FEEL WE NEED CHANGES TOO. ASIAN MAGNETISM HERE TO SETTLE DOWN YOUR MIND. WISE AND PLEASANT, CALM AND PEACEFUL. WAKE UP YOUR SPIRIT AND YOU REVEAL YOU CAN BREATHE UNDER WATER. DARK AND GRIM A BIT, THIS ISSUE IS TO MAKE YOU FEEL THE MOTION OF ELECTRIC CHARGE UNDER YOUR SKIN. summer 2015 | 13
There were so man runways that our he so much that we are ticle presents to you spotted on the Fashion The fall/ winter 20 are celebrating the 1970s the ‘90s with the lace and dark and gloomy weaving
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ny fashion trends spotted on the fall 2015 fashion week eads cannot stop spinning from it all. We were treated to e sure that almost anything we wear now goes. This arall the different fall/winter 2015-2016 fashion trends n Week runways. 015-2016 fashion trends have been quite clear: we s, but we are also showing a move into the ‘80s and d the see-through garments making it big. Mostly with shiny winter gloss.
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DKNY
Alexander Wang
ChloĂŠ
SaintA McQu
DKNY
Alexander Wang
Saint Laurent
SaintA McQu
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GOTHIC
M
Alexander ueenLaurent
Valentino
Alexander ueenLaurent
Valentino
oody lace and high ruffle necklines cut beautiful, costume-worthy silhouettes at Alexander McQueen, Alberta Ferretti and Rodarte. The 19th century vibes ruled over the beauty world too, as deep berry lips and period drama hair vampedup the dark glam look even further. Be it an elegant high-neck ruffled collar or the melancholy elegance of black lace, a Victorian mood pervaded the runways. Designers like Riccardo Tisci placed the energy of the era in a thoroughly modern milieu, and his new collection for Givenchy was a nod to the style of singer FKA twigs and Californian street culture as much as it was to the nineteenth-century queen. Similarly, Altuzarra’s slit dresses and Valentino’s floor-sweeping lace looks were a forward-thinking take on red-carpet dressing.
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GLAM
NERD G
ucci’s kooky-cool bookworm has a little Margot Tenenbaum about her, while Tommy Hilfiger’s varsity girl wears her team colours on her sleeve - literally. The only thing missing from Chloe’s professeur chic, meanwhile,is a couple of suede elbow patches. We’ll meet you in the library. (PRADA, SONIA RYCKIEL)
Gucci
Gucci
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Gucci
Prada
Gucci
Prada
Prada
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小hanel
Roksanda
Marni
Sonia
Preen
Roksanda
Marni
Sonia
F
a Rykiel
Marques Almeida
a Rykiel
Lanvin
rom curly sheep gilets in glorious, bold colours to abominable snow jackets turning models into (still gorgeous) monsters, a warm and fuzzy coat is your first essential buy of AW15. Statement shearling ruled at Lanvin and Roksanda, while Louis Vuitton and Stella McCartney made maxi faux furs thick enough to fight off that next polar vortex. Topshop Unique and Simone Rocha even lined their shoes with the stuff. The monster furs that percolated on the street style blogosphere this winter were chopped and screwed for fall, WWand pieces of mink, fox, and Mongolian lamb fur were collaged onto everything from prim double-breasted coats at Prada to evening dresses at Proenza Schouler.Reinterpreted at Alexander McQueen, Fendi, Roberto Cavalli, Chloe, Pucci and Versace, this indispensable winter classic became extraordinary:wild influences, patchwork effect and flashes of vibrant red updated the rules of the classic and eternal fur coat.
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CRAZY
PRINT V
ivid, graphic patterns swirled across the collections at Dior, Pucci, Loewe and more, sending fashion editors into a daze with all those optical illusions.
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Dior
Jonathan Saunders
Dior
Jonathan Saunders
Christopher Kane
ChloĂŠ
Sibling
Christopher Kane
Roksanda
Moschino
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GLOW &
SHINE T
his could have been the season of green lurex with the amount that unspooled over fall’s runways from Christopher Kane to Marco de Vincenzo, but the real emphasis was on shine: whether in skinny knife pleats at the former or longer fluid styles at Loewe, netted separates at Dior or sequins at Nina Ricci. And really, what better way to make a statement in the new season?
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Christopher Kane
Dior
Christopher Kane
Christopher Kane
Dior
Sonia Rykiel
Nina Ricci
Dior
Sonia Rykiel
Nina Ricci
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Chanel
Emilio Pucci
Valentino
Louis Vuitton
Chanel
Emilio Pucci
Valentino
Louis Vuitton
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BLACK & WHITE
n
Saint Laurent
n
Saint Laurent
C
hecks, stripes, diamonds and zebra print all came into play this fashion month. Black and white prints at Valentino, Saint Laurent and Emilio Pucci created an optical style illusion, ready to be reflected on the street in countless ways.
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BLACK
SUEDE
Photography Ekaterina Dokuchaeva Model Ekaterina Peredistaya Style Nastya Klimova Lighting Max Turbin
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www.dokuchaeva.com
Background photos by Alina Latypova instagram.com/llmzfqll
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Coat Vintage / Boots Djovannia / Gloves ZZ Chain accessories OMUT Leggings H&M
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Jacket Ekaterina Peredistaya / Boots Djovannia Cardigan Monki 32 | just.magazine
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Dress Vintage / Boots Djovannia / Cardigan Monki Chain accessories OMUT
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Shirt H&M / Pants Handmade Chain accessories OMUT
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www.dokuchaeva.com
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Dress H&M / Boots Djovannia
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I N T E R V I E W
NADIA UMAMMI fashion designer
Nadia Umammi – Graduated from Binus Northumbria School of Design this year, Nadia Umammi made the final thesis project that captured many eyes during the BNSD show for Jakarta Fashion Week 2015. Inspired by the Biomorphic silhouette, the imagery which she took after a student trip when visiting South Sulawesi (Celebes). The details in this collection are eventually derived from the natural pattern. The prints are cracked and marble with motive – handmade makes the design really engaging and distinctive, the fabrics represent the curved of the form like the arthritic. Neoprene materials and colours like navy blue and sanity green were complement for the natural theme. As a student she was able to transform a set of meaning to the end user and her production skills has meet the industrial requirements, now only experience she needed for her career as a professional.
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Tell us about yo your history as How you discov interest in fashio
Since young i real someone who dress street i like their dres ently from one anot bered when in elem i always go out on with my mom for fabric in the market ing for inspiration a in fashion industry, inspiration and infl her. since then i’ll a at back of my schoo signing clothes for m designing it’s not abo about art and soul, h clothes based on y that people who we the soul of the cloth
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ourself and a creative. vered your on design?
lly love seeing sed up in the ssed up differther, i rememmentary school the weekend looking some t or just lookas she worked I get a lot of fluence from always doodle ol book or demy self. I think out clothes it’s how you make your heart so ear it can feel hes it’s self.
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"I really like something natural that comes from nature because i love the rawness of it"
Where do you find your inspirations? Have any particular artists influenced your work recently? I really like something natural that comes from nature because i love the rawness of it, so I got a lot of inspiration from a lot of things going on around me, as a designer is very important to aware the things that happen around us even small things can be an inspiration too.
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What has been your biggest achievement so far? I be able to get a chance to be a finalist in China Young Fashion Designer in 2015, be able to meet and sharing with other designer from other country that’s the great experience for me.
Tell us about your new collection. What is the concept behind it? The concept from my Irregular F/W 14/15 it’s about Organic form of Biomorphic silhouette which come from nature, by mimicking the natural content with shapeless and ambiguously form.
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What techniques and materials did you use for the collection? The details or technique for this collection are eventually derived from the natural pattern. The prints are cracked and marble with motive-handmade makes the design really distinctive, the fabrics represent the curved of the form like the arthritic neoprene and the colors were complement the theme with earthy natural feeling with navy blue and sanity green.
What upcoming projects can we expect to see from you?
How would you like to see your career as a designer evolving in future?
For my next project, I am gonna make the collection more personal case that happened to myself as I said earlier inspiration can come from small things around us even yourself.
I see my self in the future doing the same thing but with more technology and natural things involving. I really want people to know my work rather than my self.
Nadia Umammi nadiaumammi.comv
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How does your cultural invironment influence your way of working? It’s very influential in the way of thinking and our concept as a designer, Indonesia in particular a lot of things can be lift into an inspiration because indonesia is very rich in culture.
Which artists, designers or photographers would you like to collaborate with? I really want to collaborate with Phoebe Philo, she’s a genius.
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SENSE OF WIND 58 | just.magazine
Photography Kristine Kurnosova
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Kristine Kurnosova cargocollective.com/kristinekurnosova
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IGOR KLEPNEV
Photography Igor Klepnev Style Valerie Aguzarova & Sergey Rancev Model Ekaterina Sadovskaya
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Igor Klepnev klepnev.com
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I N T E R V I E W
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Tell us briefly about youself and how you discovered your interest in fashion design?
There were lots of various things that led me to fashion design. I come from a very creative family. All my childhood I drew, sing and took pictures. Then there was a dilemma: whether I was going to go in to art, fashion or music – because I wanted to be a singer for a long time as well. And I made a choice in favour of fashion. But the music always inspires me, in my life and in my work. I have always been interested in clothes as long as I remember, but I didn’t even think I would have my own brand.
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What is the key idea behind your new collection? There were lots of references really, but primarily I wanted to give more space for the body and to blur off the lines between men’s and women’s wear. I wanted to stay in monochrome and pay attention to texture and details. On a conceptual level, I am really interested in the relationship that people have with their clothes, I suppose, how it can influence the way they feel and live.
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"I WANTED TO GIVE MORE SPACE FOR THE BODY AND TO BLUR OFF THE LINES BETWEEN MEN`S AND WOMEN`S WEAR" summer 2015 | 81
"Each surface should be a reflection of itself and carry a certain emotion"
How did you choose the it. You may look at something and material for the collections? think it is really good but you nevWhen I choose the material, I always pay attention to the texture of the fabric, it is very important to follow the concept. Each surface has to be a reflection of itself and should carry a certain emotion. The details are foremost in my design.
What main challenges did you face making fashion clothes and how did you overcome them? It is hard to presume what will happen, it’s fashion and you never know which way people perceive
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er know whether anyone will feel the same.
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How does your cultural invironment influence your way of working? In fact, I am very glad that in my childhood I did not have an opportunity to buy everything I wanted, only the basic and necessary things. For me, it had a very strong influence. And now I am more consciously do everything and try to minimize the space around myself and rid of everything superfluous and unnecessary.
What are your main inspirations? I’m a fan of minimalism, simple and pure forms, functional and comfortable things. I dislike bright colored stuff and prints. In the black and white and gray always feel very pure and clean. I am inspired by modern architecture and natural forms, traditions and culture of Asia.
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"I JUST WANT TO CREATE!" What does a normal day in your life look like? My day starts with planning. There are always a lot of projects and ideas in my head, many of them are still remains on paper. Most of the time I spend at work, implementing my projects.
How do you see yourself evolving in the future? What are your current goals? I’ve got many plans for the future, sometimes it even frightening. I just want to create! It’s like solving a crossword puzzle, like to solve complicated objectives. I just need a comfortable atmosphere, my own space. A place where I could implement my ideas.
Which artists, designers or photographers would you like to collaborate with? Actually, I’m always for collaboration, mutual projects. It is always a great experience! In the future, I would like to organize a charity project.
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GINGER HARVEST Photography Sonya Petrova Style & Muah Ira Golovko Model Dasha @Standard
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Clothes Zara
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Sonya Petrova soniapetrova.tumblr.com
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The Five Senses Photography Rosie Wood Model Laura-Giselle Hardie Stylist Kristian Ă˜stvik Hair & make up Charlee Hulbert, Natalie Allan Photo assistant Matt Richardson Retoucher Matt James King
Sunglasses ASOS Vintage / Top GeneveAnderson / Trousers Kristian Ă˜stvik
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Overlayer Geneve Anderson
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www.rosiewoodphotography.co.uk
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Dress ASOS / Clutch Charlotte Olympia summer 2015 | 111
Top COS / Dress Topshop Boutique / Shoes Vivienne Westwood + Melissa
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Faux fur coat by Unreal Fur
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I N T E R V I E W
UOT LENA MAXIMOVA
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uotclothes.tumblr.com
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Tell us a bit about yourself and how you discovered your passion for design? I am 25. I come from Yakutia. Now live in St. Petersburg. Since childhood, I had some inner impulse to create, I always thought of others and to understand that I do not like it. And there, where I grew up, fashion and design is seen as something superficial and not serious. It always seemed that nobody understands you. Then when I found out that there are designers in the world that this obuchayut- I decided to link their lives with this activity.
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The inspiration for me it’s unguided impulse, but its sources are ordinary - art, nature, people, history, peoples behavior, and of course music. Different collections like different music. The main point that the music should be expressive and emotional. Frequently inspiration comes to me at the moment of emotional distress or anxiety. But the main source of inspiration - it is hard work.
What is the concept behind your new collection f/w 2015? Collection F / W 2015 UOT Lena Maksimova - is the reflection of contemporary society, it’s a fusion of music, street culture, contemporary art, social and political climate of the time. The concept of thinking about the fate of the present generation, trying to find their place in a rapidly changing situation in the society under the influence of the informational war.
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"DIFFERENT COLLECTIONS LIKE DIFFERENT MUSIC"
Where do you find your inspirations? Have any particular artists influenced your work recently?
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Tell us what your ideal workspace looks like? My ideal workspace is a large cutting table, dummy, sewing equipment and good sound system for music.
What techniques and materials did you use for the collection and why? I use mostly natural fabrics to create clothing. And a variety of decorative fabrics for experiments. Prints are made by myself and I manage the whole process of creation.
What has been your biggest achievement so far? I’ve got several grants and victories in various competitions for now. And two collections - the brand UOT Lena Maksimova. My biggest achievement, lies ahead, I think, as I’m still novice to this area.
Who would you most like to collaborate with from within the visual arts and fashion spheres? I am very interested in various projects in the field of contemporary art. (installations, performances) and I am always glad to collaborate with artists, stylists, etc.. 122 | just.magazine
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UOT LENA MAXIMOVA
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NOIR Photography Maxim Baev Model Tonya Ermolina Style Victoria Gogh MUAH Yana Zhikhareva Clothes Asya Malbershtein
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Maxim Baev behance.net/baevmaxim baevmaxim.tumblr.com
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Photography Vicky Chambers Designer Rachael Shephard Model @impeffect
rs.com k ychambe www.vick ephard@live.co.u rachaelsh
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SERENE
FLOOR Photography Anastasia Zhirkova
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Anastasia Zhirkova instagram.com/anamoloko
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DISMAL REFLECTIONS Photographer Alina Latypova Model Sasha Abramova, Vilena Poterba Designer Vlad Sharapov Make up Inna Palchak Hair Anastasia Vyalova
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Alina Latypova instagram.com/llmzfqll
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ASOS www.asos.com AMERICAN APPAREL www.americanapparel.com BERSHKA www.bershka.com CHLOE www.chloe.com Charlotte Olympia www.charlotteolympia.com CHALAYAN www.chalayan.com DONIA ALLEGUE www.doniaallegue.com OYSHO www.oysho.com AINUR TURISBEK www.ainurturisbek.com FOREVER 21 www.forever21.com PRADA www.prada.com PUMA www.puma.com GEOFFREY MAC www.geoffreymac.com Geneve Anderson www.andersen-geneve.ch RAF SIMONS www.rafsimons.com ANGELA BEAUMONT www.angela-beaumont.com GUESS www.guess.com H&M www.hm.com Vivienne Westwood www.viviennewestwood.com SAINT LAURENT PARIS www.ysl.com OSCAR DE LA RENTA www.oscardelarenta.com TOM OLIVER DESIGN www.tomoliverdesign.com MAX MARA www.maxmara.com TOPSHOP www.topshop.com MONKI www.monki.com
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Photography Alina Latypova
Unreal Fur www.unrealfur.com.au URBAN OUTFITTERS www.urbanoutfitters.com
JUST FASHION
illustration by Kendall D.Lock www.kendalldlock.com 184 | just.magazine