The North Shore, July 31, 2021 by JWC Media

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LAKE FOREST NATIVE AND SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE -LOVING ESPN REPORTER RELISHING OPPORTUNITIES TO SHOW HER SERIOUS AND FUN SIDES IN DECORATED BROADCASTING CAREER. BY BILL MCLEAN THE NORTH SHORE WEEKEND

For the October 30, 2020, episode of ESPN’s Around the Horn sports roundtable show, regular panelist Sarah Spain—a 1998 Lake Forest High School graduate and an ESPN reporter since 2009—got dressed up as the Schitt’s Creek sitcom character Moira Rose. Spain nailed Rose’s accent, all while sharing her incisive opinions and competing against other journalists. “I’ve always loved fun costume parties,” says the 40-year-old reporter, who lives in Wicker Park with her husband of five years, real estate agent Brad Zibung. “And, when I was young, I wanted to be on Saturday Night Live, doing comedy. I have a background in improv, and if you want to be any good at that you have to be a good listener. Listening well comes in handy for me when I appear on ‘Around the Horn.’ “I’ll hear a comment and then play off that with something fun, like a movie quote.” Spain hasn’t won an Oscar. Yet. But she’s captured two Emmys, a Peabody Award, and a Dan Jenkins Medal for Excellence in Sportswriting for Runs in the Family, the written accompaniment to her 2019 E:60 piece about former Kansas City Chiefs running backs coach Deland McCullough and his search for his birth father. “The ceiling for women working in sports is higher than ever,” says Spain, who, in 2020, became a co-owner of the Chicago Red Stars, a team in the National Women’s Soccer League. “You’re seeing women as owners, as CEOs, as GMs, as color analysts, and as play-by-play announcers. But the basement? It’s about the same. There are people out there who still believe women don’t belong in sports industries. Women starting out

Sarah Spain on ESPN radio. PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY ESPN

continue the battle to be respected.” Spain was 20 years old and a Cornell University student-athlete, majoring in English, when the first issue of Forest & Bluff entered mailboxes. The stack of varsity letters she had earned at LFHS—in field hockey, basketball, and track and field—was slightly smaller

than Jack’s beanstalk. LFHS girls track and field coach Steve Clegg could see Spain excelling in track and field events that aren’t staged for high school athletes. Javelin, for example. So Clegg borContinued on PG 7

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INDEX

LIFESTYLE & ARTS

AUGUST 7

12 cross-cultural cuisine Highland Park Historical Society highlights archivist Dr. Susanna Belovari’s study of Viennese cuisine

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NEWS From PG 1

rowed a javelin from a local college, introduced the light spear to Spain, and watched her chuck it far. Spain later set a Junior Olympics javelin record at a multistate competition and became a heptathlete at Cornell. As a Scouts force on prep basketball courts, she recorded rare triple doubles of points, rebounds, and blocks. Swatting 10 or more shots in a 32-minute game, to go with recording double digits in points and rebounds, is Halley’s Comet territory. A 13-year-old Sarah Spain started playing in varsity playoff games for Lake Forest High’s perennially strong field hockey program and achieved pillar status during her sophomore, junior, and senior seasons. No wonder Spain was a Lake Forest High School Wall of Fame honoree in 2018 with former Scout Matt Grevers, who flew to England in 2012 and bowed for Olympic gold medals in swimming. “I questioned myself when I arrived at Cornell as a freshman,” Spain recalls. “Competing in a Division-I sport, while studying at an Ivy League school, I wondered, ‘Could I keep up?’ and, ‘How will I ever be able to manage my time?’ What I soon realized was, Lake Forest High School’s teachers and coaches prepared me so well.” Spain graduated with distinction in all subjects and was a member of the National Society of Collegiate Scholars and the Golden

Key National Honor Society (top 15 percent of her class). She lived in Los Angeles for six years, initially hoping to become an actor. “I did the acting thing for a while—you know, hiring an agent and working at a restaurant,” Spain cracks. “I took a class in TV hosting; it was a weekend ‘boot camp.’ Later, on a whim, I signed up for a TV sports reporting extension class at UCLA. I found out that I like to bring out the best in an athlete’s personality while conducting an interview.” Fox Sports Net, the precursor to FS1, hired Spain as a production assistant on a nightly highlight show entitled The Final Score. She eventually returned to the Chicago area and savored every chance she got to cover the sports teams she followed closely as a youngster at home with sister Katie and parents Rick and Nancy. A Chicago Bulls game, on TV, at the Spain household in the franchise’s glorious 1990s? Sarah was glued to the broadcast, with the remote nowhere in sight. “I took over the TV when my Bulls were playing,” Spain says. Today Spain is an espnW columnist, has a national ESPN Radio show Spain and Fitz and can be heard on her podcast That’s What She Said with Sarah Spain. In addition to her appearances on Around the Horn, she entertains and contributes sharp insights on the ESPN show, Highly Questionable. Spain’s reporting and features have accentuated other ESPN properties, including Outside the Lines and

SportsCenter. Among her plum assignments in the last five years were the Chicago Cubs’ three World Series games at Wrigley Field in 2016. She appeared on SportsCenter in pre- and post-game coverage each night. But not as a stiff, buttoned-up reporter. “They wanted me to cover the games from the perspective of the fans,” Spain says. Spain has fans. Her advice to the young ones, who want to do what she does for a living, is as on-the-mark as her impersonation of Moira Rose is. “Lean into what separates you from others and own it,” Spain says. “Don’t become a cookiecutter professional because you think that’s the safe way. Be kind, make connections, and work super hard.” Sarah Spain dressed as Moira Rose from Schitt’s Creek.

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LIFESTYLE & ARTS

CROSS-CULTURAL CUISINE SUSANNA BELOVARI, AN ARCHIVIST AT THE UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS, TELLS THE STORY OF HOW BOTH JEWS AND CHRISTIANS SHAPED CLASSIC VIENNESE COOKING BEFORE HITLER’S REGIME. BY MITCH HURST THE NORTH SHORE WEEKEND

In order to understand classic Viennese cuisine, it helps to understand the city’s history. Before the socialist regime in Germany in the 1930s, which would soon overtake Austria and attempt to purge that country of its Jews, Vienna was a place where Christians and Jews lived side-by-side—neighbors, friends, Austrians. This cooperative relationship is best reflected in what is known as Viennese Cuisine, both historically and to this day. Dr. Susanna Belovari, an archivist at the University of Illinois with Viennese ancestry, has researched the origins of Viennese Cuisine and how both Jews and Christians created iconic dishes which were cooked and enjoyed by those from both religious traditions. Her essay that shares the results of her research, “The Viennese Cuisine before Hitler–One Cuisine in the Use of Two Nations,” won The Sophie Coe Prize from Oxford University, which is given to work that breaks new ground offering insights into the intersection of food and culture through essays that display creativity and originality. The Highland Park Historical Society sponsored a Zoom presentation by Belovari about her research and her essay on July 12. She was writing her doctoral dissertation on another topic at the University of Illinois when she became interested in researching Viennese Cuisine. Belovari explains that she worked for one of the few Orthodox Jewish

families in Champaign-Urbana to help pay some of her education bills. “I started working for them and we became friends and she taught me some of the Orthodox ways of cleaning and cooking,” Belovari explains. “We became friends. She asked me to clean and cook since I was willing to learn all the (kosher) rules and I was fast at picking them up.” It wasn’t long before Belovari was being asked to cook desserts for large dinner parties of 15 to 20 people. “They wanted me to do the desserts and

gave me recipes, and I looked at them and said, ‘I can't do that because as a Viennese, I was raised on classical Viennese desserts,” Belovari says. “So, I pondered, and I took the handwritten cookbook of my mother and grandmother and the classical Viennese cookbook that was first published in 1913.” Belovari’s maternal grandmother had started her own little coffee house, and she writes in her essay that her cousins would bike over 120 miles over the Alps to eat a slice of strudel. Her paternal grandmother was a pastry chef for an aristocrat until the end of World War I, and her mother was a brilliant cook. She used the recipes to prepare desserts for the dinner guests and they were a hit, even her grandmother’s quintessential Christmas cookies. Her employer wanted the recipes, but Belovari couldn’t provide them because they were old family recipes that her grandmother wouldn’t have wanted to share. The experience set Belovari on a long journey—starting in 1997—to discover how Vi-

ennese Cuisine evolved into a tradition that has no distinctly religious affiliations. There were two major challenges that impeded her research. First, the assassination of almost a third of Austrian Jews during the Holocaust, and second, the fact that many of the recipes for Viennese Cuisine were created by young women who eventually got married and changed their names. “It took me a long time because the record situation is a catastrophe. I was continuously questioning myself for 15 years because so much is gone,” Belovari says. “No one had ever talked about it or written about it.” As the internet began to evolve, more and more archival records became available and Belovari was able to at least piece some of the mystery together—especially through published cookbooks. But Beloveri cites a lingering resistance to any discussion about the Holocaust as a significant barrier. “I tried to talk about this in 2009 at the Academy of Science in Warsaw as part of a larger paper that included food resistance in Vienna during the war, which I thought was mostly done by women like my grandmother helping Jewish neighbors and friends,” she says. “Then I talked about the Warsaw ghetto, which was mostly men and children, and I was met with a glacial reaction because Poland at the time hadn't yet started to deal with the Holocaust.” Still, Belovari’s essay tells a rich history of city where food became a symbol not of differences, but of shared interests and tastes. “It had nothing to do with them being Jewish or Catholic,” she says. “They were just inventors.”

VANILLEKIPFERL (VANILLA CRESCENT COOKIES) INGREDIENTS • 2 cups (250 grams) flour • 2 and 1/8 sticks (210 grams) unsalted butter at room temperature • 1 cup (100 grams) ground almonds • A little bit less than 3/4 cup (70 grams) confectioners’ sugar and an additional • 1 cup (100 grams) of confectioners’ sugar for rolling the crescents. (You can store the confectioners’ sugar with a vanilla bean for several weeks, so the sugar takes on the flavor of the vanilla.)

METHOD Preheat oven at 350 degrees and line baking sheets with parchment or cover with flour. Mix flour, butter, ground almonds, and sugar with your hands. Take a large tablespoon of dough (experiment to see if that will give you the right size of crescent) and roll each section gently into ropes (approximately 2 to 3 inches), then taper corners to shape crescent. Small crescents will be about 1-inch in length, 1-inch in width, and about 1/3-inch thick. Be careful that the crescent is of uniform thickness; otherwise, the thinner sections or tips will burn in the oven. Transfer to baking sheet and bake about 10 to

15 minutes (baking time will depend on your oven). Be careful because they burn easily. Remove from oven when tips of crescents are lightly brown, and bottoms are golden (they can be cooked slightly longer if you want them browner and crunchier) and either remove them carefully with a spatula and let them cool on the table or pull the parchment with the crescents off the baking sheet. If you don’t remove them from the baking sheet, they continue baking on the hot metal sheet. Once they have cooled down and will not break easily, roll each crescent in confectioners’ sugar.

| SATURDAY JULY 31 | SUNDAY AUGUST 1 2021

Belovari’s family makes vanillekipferl, or vanilla crescent cookies, each Christmas. These cookies were also baked by Viennese Jews for Hanukkah. The recipe for the cookies is included in the Viennese cookbook, Wiener Küche. THE NORTH SHORE WEEKEND

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S U N D AY B R E A K FA S T

TODAY’S JON SAWYER TOQUE-WEARING KITCHEN ACE AT CHICAGO’S ADORN BAR & RESTAURANT IS BRIMMING WITH ENTHUSIASM AFTER A RECENT MOVE TO KENILWORTH. BY BILL MCLEAN ILLUSTRATION BY BARRY BLITT

The compliment that changed Jonathon Sawyer’s life was as ringing as a dull thud. Sawyer was an engineering major at the University of Dayton, midway through his junior year, and working part-time for a hard-to-please chef. Sawyer manned the crêpe station one day. The chef stopped by for a taste. “I heard him say, ‘You’re not bad at cooking,’” Sawyer, 41, recalls. “This, from a chef, who praised nobody. That was it. That was the moment. “I was done with college.” Some 15 years later, at a ceremony held in Chicago, Sawyer—a Pennsylvania Institute of Culinary Arts graduate and chef in Cleveland at the time—earned a James Beard Foundation Award (Best Chef: Great Lakes, 2015). A chef ’s Beard prize is a college football player’s Heisman, an actor’s Oscar, a pitcher’s Cy Young, a hockey team’s Stanley Cup. Not bad. The decorated one and author of two books (Noodle Kids and House of Vinegar) now lives in Kenilworth and serves as chef de cuisine at Adorn Bar & Restaurant, perched on the seventh floor at Four Seasons Hotel Chicago. Adorn features globally inspired cuisine starring the bounty of the Midwest. Sawyer and his wife/business partner, Amelia, moved to the North Shore last year with son Catcher, 16, and daughter Louisiana, 13. “My interpretation of New American cuisine is taking what’s classic and familiar and adorning it with unexpected ingredients and presentations that will surprise and delight diners,” Sawyer reveals to visitors of the eatery’s website, adornrestaurant.com. Born in McHenry, Sawyer moved to the Cleveland area with his family when he was 6. He wrestled and performed for the school orchestra at Strongsville High School. How many take-down specialists who could also bring the house down in music halls do you know? “I hire people automatically if they were wrestlers or are in the orchestra,” Sawyer cracks in House of Vinegar (Ten Speed Press, 2018), which captures his fascination with the power of sour, shares his brilliant recipes, and entertains via his storytelling abilities. The account about his purchase of a $29 cask of caramel-colored vinegar, when he was living in New York and paying $1,650 per month for rent while earning peanuts as a cook, is vivid, funny, and engaging. “You want stories?” he says. “I have stories. I love telling stories. So much so that I could talk food cold.” The ones about his late grandmother/early influence in culinary, Audrey Wetzel, usually include small armies at the dinner table. Jona-

thon Sawyer, after all, has 33 first cousins. “Grandma loved cooking at home and loved entertaining,” Sawyer says. “Hospitality was her thing, her major thing. Five eaters, 25 eaters, it didn’t matter to her. Food always appeared to come out of everywhere at her place. She would embrace anyone who walked in and anticipated a meal.” His mother, Becky, made out-of-this-world tomato sandwiches: two perfect pieces of bread, olive oil, and tomato slices that had never seen the light of a refrigerator. “Transcendent,” Sawyer says of the lunch fare. Sawyer, post-culinary school, “cut my teeth” at the Biltmore Hotel in Miami and “made my first bones” as chef in New York City at Charlie Palmer’s Kitchen 22 and Michael Symon’s Parea. Working four months in Italy and four summers in France fattened his vita. He returned to Cleveland in 2007, opening his flagship restaurant, The Greenhouse

Tavern. Sawyer also owned “C-town” restaurants Noodlecat and Trentina, the latter spot offering ambitious Northern Italian fare. He toiled as chef at all three. The James Beard Foundation ( JBF) recognized Sawyer for his excellence at The Greenhouse Tavern. JBF is a nonprofit with a mission to celebrate, support, and elevate the people be-

You want stories? I have stories. I love telling stories. So much so that I could

Jonathon Sawyer

| SATURDAY JULY 31 | SUNDAY AUGUST 1 2021

talk food cold.

hind America’s food culture and champion a standard of good food anchored in talent, equity, and sustainability. Sawyer, the lone non-Chicagoan nominated in the Great Lakes category in 2015, received his honor at the 25th annual edition of the Beard awards in Chicago— the first time the ceremony was staged outside N e w Yo r k City.

Sawyer had convinced himself that he would not be announced as the winner. The other nominees were Erling Wu-Bower, of Nico Osteria; Paul Virant, of Vie; Andrew Zimmerman, of Sepia; and Curtis Duffy, of Grace. Jonathon Sawyer was announced as the winner. Sawyer jumped out of his chair, but only after he had recovered from a delightful state of shock. The victor returned to Earth, sans a parachute. “You want to know what I was thinking as the nominees were being read?” Sawyer says. “‘No way,’ that’s what. No way would I be the winner. “I was in the middle of sending a congratulatory text message to the chef I thought would win.” The accolade didn’t stun Symon, Sawyer’s former boss at Parea. “Fermentation is such a trendy buzz word in kitchens these days, but it is something Jon has been doing and researching throughout his entire career,” Symon writes in the foreword of House of Vinegar. “[Sawyer enjoys] learning how to intensify flavors and alter textures of food with age-old techniques and new, innovative thought processes that create exciting flavors that are all his own.” Two recipes by Sawyer: Cream of Artichoke Soup with Hazelnuts; and Sustainable Fish en Papier with Hen of the Woods mushrooms, new potatoes, and Meyer lemons (visit jamesbeard. org/chef/jonathon-sawyer for details). “I’ve never believed in secret ingredients, in a secret recipe,” says Sawyer, who has appeared on a number of cooking shows, including Chef America, Chopped Grill Masters, The Best Thing I Ever Ate, and Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern. “If you want a recipe from me, here you go. A technique? I’ll show you. “A dish, to me, is never perfect,” he adds. “There’s always room for improvement. No ceiling. Say I make a dish today and the same one 10 years from now. I’d expect it to taste better in a decade. Wouldn’t any chef? Wouldn’t you?” Jonathon Sawyer expects Jonathon Sawyer— the father, the husband, the chef, the owner of dogs named Potato and Vito—to be better tomorrow than today’s Jonathon Sawyer. It’s a life motto. But he knows there’s nothing wrong with constancy. Like his new environs, for example. “Love it here,” says Sawyer, an avid cyclist. “Love the outdoors here. There’s a lot of Boy Scout still in me. I also love riding my bike along Sheridan Road, looking at all the trees. So many beautiful trees.” Kenilworth. Not a bad place to live. Adorn Bar & Restaurant, 312-280-8800, is located at 120 East Delaware Place, Chicago. For more information visit adornrestaurant.com. THE NORTH SHORE WEEKEND

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All floor plans shown are for illustrative purposes only. Floor plans may not depict final design of units as constructed and may not be drawn to scale. All sketches, renderings, architectural models, materials, plans, specifications, terms, prices, conditions and statements, including estimated timeframes and dates, contained herein are proposed only and are not intended to constitute representations. Developer reserves the right to make modifications in its sole discretion and without prior notice. All photographs and renderings are merely intended as illustrations of the activities and concepts depicted therein as interpreted by the artists. Developer makes no representations regarding any view and/or exposure to light at any time including any existing or future construction by either owner or a third party. Square footage and ceiling heights are approximate and may be based on various measurement methodologies, subject to construction variances and tolerances, as well as redesign, and vary from unit to unit (and may vary from floor to floor). This brochure shall not constitute a valid offer in any jurisdiction where prior registration is required and not yet fulfilled. Where used, developer DL# 2556130 shall mean Tribune Tower West (Chicago) Owner, LLC and its affiliated entities and their respective managers, members, directors, shareholders, partners, agents, affiliates and employees.

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C H O O S E YO U R

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