JOAO CAPOULADE PHOTOGRAPHY ANA MARIA BRANDALISE
i-DEAS, FASHION, MUSIC, PEOPLE
growth
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NO.338. THE COMING OF AGE ISSUE PRE-FALL 2015
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VA Sar
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ANS rah
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Supreme Sarah
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insi-De the coming of age issue the future is closer than you think live 24 humans of humanity photography taylor yow 42 garbage chips starring eli walker text kate walker 48 30 years later, why the breakfast club still helps generations come of age text sarah sucupira 50 love is the drag starring pedro alexandre and joao capoulade photography ana maria brandalise styling pedro alexandre art director sarah sucupira.
features + fashion 58 this season’s professionals starring allison pace photography tyce hoskins styling melissa eloshway art director taylor yow 66 behind the beauty starring mary tres lucy parker amand pagan ashlee nguyen lauren thomas photography taylor yow, brian g. edwards make up maria tres art director ivonne rivas 74 swan drake starring bella sotille photography brian g. edwards styling sarah sucupira art director kate walker 78 a new perspective starring kylie petrie text ivonne rivas.
Photography Ana Maria Brandalise Joao wears his own clothes.
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ALEXANDER WANG Kate
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the coming of age issue no. 338 what advice would you give to your younger self?
editor-in-chief kate walker... be nice. it feels amazing to be nice. creative director taylor yow... things will get better. and worse. and better managing director sarah sucupira... don’t be afraid to put yourself out there. fashion editor ivonne rivas... don’t take life too seriously.
contributors ana maria brandalise, lucca dal forno, pedro alexandre, rute harada, mariana midori, erico ricardo, joao capoulade, ally walls, brian g. edwards, monica papas, maria jose castro, jordan dabney, tyce hoskins, melissa eloshway, carrie sullivan, amanda pagan, ashlee nguyen christine denicolas, meg foster, emma tracy, kylie petrie, natalie james, mary tres, lucy parker, lauren thomas, bella sotille, allison pace
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14 contributors Ana Maria Brandalise
She is currently a photography major at SCAD and her Brazilian asthetic fit perfectly for “love is the drag” editorial. What advice would you give to your younger self? You’re stronger than you think, don’t be afraid to be yourself.
Brian Edwards
Brian is a Fashion Marketing and Management student at SCAD with a passion for photography which is what made him the perfect fit for the Swan Drake editorial as well as the beauty editorial. What advice would you give to your younger self? Be brave.
Tyce Hoskins
SCAD Advertising Major and Photographer, shot our elegently forward “this season’s professionals” editorial, focusing on the modern interpretation of a timeless tradition. What advice would you give to your younger self? Stop stressing, work harder, be less self concious and more carefree.
Kate Walker
I’m just here so I won’t get fined. What advice would you give to your younger self? Start drinking gin!!
Taylor Yow
Professional skeleton. A perfect 9. What advice would you give to your younger self? Sometimes being a bitch is all a girl has going for her.
Sarah Sucupira
Professional funkeira. What advice would you give to your younger self? Don’t ever think you’re not worth it
Ivonne Rivas
Bouncer. What advice would you give to your younger self? Life goes on
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DKNY Sarah
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pre-fall 2015 the coming of age issue
Youth is not something that it is to be simply endured but celebrated! Sure, being young and growing up is not without its challenges, especially in such a technologically savvy era, but there are so many advantages and exciting things to look forward to in being young. In this issue, we scattered a few Charles Bukowski quotes along our pages and I think that every adolescent should pick up a Bukowski novel. His works are very gritty and real, not to mention a little crass, which makes him a perfect addition to any cultured devloping individual’s bookshelf. On our cover for Pre-Fall, we have Joao who is an awesome example of how youths should learn to be themselves. He is from Brazil and loves to dress in drag, and I think his ‘this is me, take it or leave it’ kind of attitude is refreshing in a sea of followers. Bella Sotille, a prima ballerina, shows us that just because you love Swan Lake you can also love Drake in the featured editorial. Next, we take a trip down Taylor Yow’s lens to delve into a type of psychologoical inquiry of this generation. We look to people who don’t necessarily fit into a particular box on a sheet and talked to Eli Walker who is a newly transitioning male, as well as provacative photographer Kylie Petrie. This issue shows that this generation, in particular, has a lot to say and has a view unlike any other, proving why they are a force to be rekoned with. Party on, Garth. Kate Walker, Editor-in-Chief
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chapter 1 find something you love and let it kill you
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23 pre-fall 2015
SOME PEOPLE NEVER GO CRAZY. WHAT TRULY HORRIBLE LIVES THEY MUST LEAD.
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We took to the street and interviewed people on understanding their personality and looking towards the future. Photographer Taylor Yow Resources Melissa Eloshway Jamie, 25 Tucker, 22 Keyvon, 22
humans of humanity
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Jess, 22 & Josh, 21
What are your hopes for the future? Community Integration. How would you describe your generation? The positive bread of nihilist. Cloaking angst in sarcasm. Something you believe in? Ghosts. Material reality. Something you wish you could change? Modernization’s conflation with economic disparity. What’s the hardest thing you’ve had to do? Quit Smoking. What do you never leave home without? Chapstick.
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“Keep cool, never freeze. I read that on a mayonnaise bottle”
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Brain, 20
Hey, how are you doing? Alright, I have a pretty busy day ahead of me. What are your hopes for the future? Graduate college and move to NYC.How would you describe your generation? Aspirational. Something you believe in? That everything happens for a reason. Something you wish you could change? How humans treat eachouther. There is too much hate in this world. What’s the hardest thing you’ve had to do? Getting out of bed this morning. What’s the best piece of advice you’e ever given? Stand up to the ones you love What do you never leave home without? Headphones.
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“I want to be the first person on mars”
Phil Hardy, 27
Hey, how are you doing? Hungry. What are your hopes for the future? Humans becoming extinct and dinosaurs roam the earth again. How would you describe your generation? Entitled. Something you believe in? Truth and Justice. Something you wish you could change? Disperity in US income. What’s the hardest thing you’ve had to do? fill out this form. What’s your tagline | motto? Catch you on the flipside | Drink more than 2. What’s the best piece of advice you’e ever given? Never let your girlfriend meet your wife. What do you never leave home without? Cellphone - duh.
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“Life “Life is is garden. garden. Dig Dig it” it” -Joe -Joe Dirt Dirt
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Hey, how are you doing? Really good. What are your hopes for the future? Graduate college and get a nice job. How would you describe your generation? Young, intellignet, hard working, distant. Something you believe in? That people are good in nature. Something you wish you could change? The power of belief in the human psyche. What’s the hardest thing you’ve had to do? Living life with regret. What’s the best piece of advice you’e ever given? Live with no regrets. What do you never leave home without? Pants. What are your goals? Graduate college, get a big boy job
Austin Cameron, 25
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“Give “Give Fewer Fewer Fucks” Fucks”
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Kristen Powell, 34
Hey, how are you doing? I’m doing well, thanks! What are your hopes for the future? To be content one day right where I am. How would you describe your generation? Slow to start. Something you believe in? Human kindness. What’s the hardest thing you’ve had to do? Trust myself. What do you never leave home without? Low self-esteem. What are your goals? Write a book.
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Daniel McAlexander, 25
Hey, how are you doing? I’m doing well, enjoying every moment. How would you describe your generation? Self centered, pampered, creative, and outspoken. Something you believe in? The collective energy of all people. Something you wish you could change. The need for money to make a difference. Borders. What’s the hardest thing you’ve had to do? Stick with a 9 to 5. What’s your tagline | motto? New places, good food, good people. What’s the best piece of advice you’e ever given? Do what makes you, you. What do you never leave home without? A Harmonica. What are your goals? To travel the world, comfortably.
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“I want to see the world while it’s still beautiful.”
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How would you describe your generation? “Thefreeze. iPhone Generation” “Keep cool, never -Kasey Medlin 19 I read that on a mayonnaise bottle” 39 - iD
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42 @garbagechips A peak into the mind of a newly transitioning guy, Eli Walker, 19 Photographer Eli Walker
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Let’s start with who is your favorite musician? Listening to a lot of Hozier because he has cool themes in his music and also his sound is really cool What do you think of your generation? I think we sometimes don’t care a lot about stuff but I also think that we are freer than generations before. How do you feel about Drake? I want to look exactly how Drake looks when he’s sitting courtside. He looks like a grandfather and that’s exactly how I want to look. He has a sweater and he wears those glasses, that’s my aesthetic. Him in the Hotline Bling music video, yeah, I want to be Drake. I’m beyond obsessed, it’s the gift that keeps on giving. Someone tweeted that Drake dances like a white Dad. Have you seen his before and after videos of when he started working out. I want to look how drake looks when he’s sitting courtside. Let’s talk a little about your transition. What would you say that is the best piece of advice that you’ve got about transitioning or your experience in transitioning? Well I’m 6 months into hormone therapy so I’m starting to get a beard and a little bit of weird peach fuzz. But as for advice, it’s actually something no one has told me but I think to myself a lot, when people misgender me or stuff like that happens, it doesn’t phase me a ton anymore because always I have a mantra If I know who I am on the inside then it doesn’t really matter what anyone else thinks of me, it’s like if I know I’m a boy, fuck you, I guess. What is on your Bucket List? I want to go to Iceland hot springs, I want to go to pretty places because I like nature and I romanticize things a lot And there’s no sun. And I love no sun, I hate the sun. And you can go meet Vikings. And I can meet Vikings, I need a nice Viking in my life. What did you used to think you were right about but when you grew up you realized that you were wrong? I used to think I wanted tattoos all over my body and piercings everywhere and I used to fight Mom and Dad about it. Like this is how I want to live my life and now I’m like I’ll get like two tattoos and not pierce any of my face. What’s the bravest thing you’ve ever done? Probably come out honestly, and be openly out. Who do you look up to? I don’t look up to one person, I look up to different people for different facets of my life. Like for stage management I look up to my teachers and in my transition I’ll look up to famous trans guys and different people for different things and different things that I need. Who specifically? For my career, in stage management I look up to my teachers because they seem successful and they also have a lot to teach me and in terms of my transition, I look at other trans-guys that put themselves out there and that help other trans guys that are transitoning get accurate information and show a support system. A lot of them are only active on the internet becauase trans guys don’t get a lot of representation in popular media but YouTubers like Chase Ross and Ty Turner, I like. What were you like as a child? I was super independent, I really wanted to dress myself and I would always dress super grossely like in tutus and cowboy boots and I was really defiant whenever we wanted to go to church and I would hide from mom and dad and that would piss them off really badly but yeah I thnk I was a really independent child and I had a lot of energy. I was really spririted. Do you think that has translated into your adult life? Yeah, I think so, I’m still outgoing. In what way? I mean, I like being involved and I can still be spirited and I am passionate about things and I have a fire for things that I love. What was your favorite subject in school? I liked creative writing because I like to express my emotions via poetry. Who is your favorite poet? I really like Niel Hilborn, he is a spoken word poet out of Minneapolis. I have his book. What’s your favorite book? Of all time? I liked The Book Thief a lot the first time I read it. It has a lot of themes that are relatable as well as a poignant message. It deals with a really heavy topic that is delivered in a way to reach a younger audience because it is delivered in a relatable way, if that makes sense. Because it’s a young girl and it’s discussing the holocaust, it’s a way to convey that heavy information in a relatable way. The story of youth is relatable. What other books do you like? I am only reading poetry books right now. You need to read Broken Wings by Khalil Gibran. Speaking of sad things, what was your first job? I am currently being groomed as a helper in the LGBT Resource Center (at the University of Wisconsin Milwaukee). What do you do there now? I sign people in, in order to secure funding you have to see who frequents the center and I sign people in when they come into the center and I answer phone calls. I am also in charge of this group called UNITE, it’s a trans and inter-sex group. 43 - iD
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How are your parents with your transition? Good, they took it pretty well. They still mis-gender me constantly but I love them and I love me. Switching gears a little, I noticed that your instagram name is Garbage chips, that’s kind of unusual. I picked it because there’s this picture from tumblr, and its this bird wearing a crown. It says ‘I’m the best! I’m the king of me! I’ll eat chips out of the garbage if I want to” and so now my brand is Garbage Chips because I’m the king of me. What do you think are your three best qualities? My sense of humor, my non-prescription glasses, and my calves. Why? Because I’ve been walking a lot, you should see these calves. Oh God, okay, what are you three worst qualities? My penchant for procrastination, I internalize all of my emotions and I think about them late at night and I fall in love with literally every boy I’ve ever met.
“I want to look exactly how Drake looks when he’s sitting courtside.”
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48 30 years later, why The Breakfast Club still helps generations come of age TEXT SARAH SUCUPIRA
As a 16 year-old Brazilian wannabe hipster girl, I was pretty convinced that watching American 80s films would make me such a cultured and mature person - there was such an underdog complex we had back then! Starting with The Breakfast Club, it sounded like a good idea. I can’t remember my exactly thoughts or feelings at the time but I am sure of one thing: I have never been so emotionally shaken and affected by a teen movie before. Today, 30 years after the film’s release, I, as a 19 year-old girl who doesn’t care about being cool anymore, decided to rewatch it and made a new conclusion for the record: we need more films like The Breakfast Club. The scenario is so easy that it sounds cheating and challenging at the same time. Five high school stereotypes in a detention room for a couple of hours. We are introduced to Bender – the criminal -, Claire – the princess - , Andrew – the athlete -, Allison – the basket case and Brian – the brain -. John Hughes made a very involving and an entertaining therapeutic movie with a simple but intriguing question: “Who are you?”. With that, he proved that identity, especially when you are coming of age, can be the most frustrating issue. And by having a universal challenge, the five totally different characters found themselves in a moment of empathy and connection with each other. The movies starts with a piece of David Bowie’s Change: “... And these children that you spit on as they try to change their words are immune to your consultations. They’re quite aware of what they are going through…”. And that is what the whole film is about. Principal Rich plays the representation of world’s attitude towards teenagers and how everyone one else has the same struggle to handle their own fears and insecurities. Adults just forget how arduous and lonely growing up can be. In other words, Allison delivered it: “When you grow up, your heart dies.”. All the students are experiencing parental pressure and frustrations, together they realize that certainty does not come with age and that delusion and failure are present in every stage of life. Ninety-two minutes is not enough to solidify the complexity of becoming an adult but we continue to fight to figure ourselves out or at least to know what we want to be. But Hughes made the plight seem bearable in a beautiful and sensitive piece. Nowadays, apparently teen movies are required to have a supernatural feature or being situated in a fascist post-war society where the lead characters have to compete to survive. How can kids relate to environments that are clearly not real? I still consider myself a kid and I feel glad to answer it: we don’t. Isn’t the implicit social responsibility of teen movies to create stories which teenagers can find a connection to? The Breakfast Club checked in to this point not only to 80s kids but to later generations like mine. I was raised in Britney Spears’ 2000s and we don’t even have a detention system in Brazil, but I felt free, changed and excited when the characters went outdoors and Simple Mind’s “Don’t You Forget About Me” started to play. Hughes’ work elevated the teen cinema to a more than just a sex and drug/alcohol exploration level. By patronizing stereotypes, he helped everybody to be understood as individuals. Still, I feel like we are missing something huge here: diversity. The five students are from different class and social backgrounds but they are all white and straight, which is common of Hughes’s characters. For the future, I want know the stories from my social outlier friends. I want kids to see themselves represented and actually feel like they are representing the youth. I want directors to go for the heart of the youth if they really want to talk about the youth. 48 -iD
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JOAO WEARS VEST AND LIZ BRA CIVVIES.
PHOTOGRAPHY ANA MARIA BRANDALISE STYLING PEDRO ALEXANDRE FASHION DIRECTOR SARAH SUCUPIRA
love is the drag
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T SHIRT ENVY’S.
Pedro, 20
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Where did you grow up as a kid? In Recife, Brazil... very big city. How long have you been doing drag for? Some months ago... I just started this year. Why did you start it? Because I thought to myself that was the right time since it is something I have always been insterested in. What is your favorite part about dressing up? Getting to be a stylist and to build my own concepts for the outifits. Also you love doing the make up cause it just gives a whole identity to yourself when you do it.
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53 JOAO WEARS SWEATSHIRT CAVALERA.
“Be wild and aggresive. Bite back.” JOAO CAPOULADE
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CORSET, SKIRT AND HEELS CIVVIES.
Joao , 20
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Where did you grow up as a kid? Brasilia, Brazil. How long have you been doing drag for? 2 years. Why did you start it? I started it after watching make up tutorials on YouTube. What is your favorite part about dressing up? Transforming into another person. Someone you have control over the appearance and who you can play and distor the idea of beauty and close.
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PEDRO WEARS DRESS AND HAT CIVVIES.
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56 “Be brave and fight for what you believe if that’s what makes you happy. Life is about always staying true to yourself.” PEDRO ALEXANDRE
PEDRO WEARS COAT AND SHORTS CIVVIES. BOOTS GINA’S BEAUTY.
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PEDRO WEARS T SHIRT SCAD.
style, and determination. ALLISON WEARS DRESS BLACK HALO. NECKLACE KONSTATINO. BOXING GLOVES TITLE.
At the age of 18 Allison Pace debuted as a Debutante in Austin Texas. Allison graduated from Texas A&M University with a degree in Environmental Geoscience and is getting her Masters in Oceanography. While the meaning for Debutante Balls have changed over the past century, the tradition is still alive and well. After being presented in Texas, she debuted at the National Debutante Ball in Washington D.C and The Queen Charlotte’s Ball in London, England. She represents how the roles of the modern Debutante have changed with grace,
PHOTOGRAPHY TYCE HOSKINS FASHION DIRECTOR TAYLOR YOW
this season’s professionals
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ALLISON WEARS DRESS TERI JON. LAB COAT. SAFETY GOGGLES.
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ALLISON WEARS DRESS LAUNDRY BY SHELLY SEGAL. BOOTS FRYE. OWN BACKPACK.
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ALLISON WEARS DRESS EMILIO PUCCI. HELMET KEVLAR. WWII MISSILE. KID
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GLOVES.
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ALLISON WEARS DRESS BCBG. GLASSES MICHAEL KORS. MOTHER’S JEWELRY.
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ALLISON WEARS DRESS NICHOLAS. NECKLACE EDDIE BORGO. PAINT BRUSH & CANVAS.
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chapter 2
what matters most is how well you walk through the fire 65 - iD
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behind the beauty PHOTOGRAPHY BRIAN G EDWARDS MAKE UP VONNIE CORIA This season, the new look will feature a pastel color palette for this upcoming pre-fall season. Intense blues, purples, pinks, orange eye shadows will bring a playful and youthful look. Meanwhile, bright and bold lipsticks will help balance the light pastels for this new 60’s revival look. MAKE UP USED THROUGHOUT MAC- STUDIO MAKE UP, YOUNG REVIVAL- WEIGHTLESS PERFECTION. MAC CONCEALER AND AIR LOOSE POWDER. MAC’S BARBIE EYESHADOW PALLET
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MIU Tay
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MIU ylor
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when you like swan lake but also get down to drake, bella sotille shows us the two are not mutually exclusive KATE WALKER
BELLA WEARS T SHIRT HANES. JEANS J BRAND. OWN SHOES.
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#MAPLELIGNE #MAPLELIGNE #MAPLELIGNE #MAPLELIGNE #MAPLELIGNE #MAPLELIGNE
BELLA WEARS T SHIRT HANES. JACKET TEK GEAR. JEANS MADEWELL. OWN SHOES.
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#CHAMPAGNEPLIE #CHAMPAGNEPLIE #CHAMPAGNEPLIE #CHAMPAGNEPLIE #CHAMPAGNEPLIE #CHAMPAGNEPLIE
BELLA WEARS TURTLENECK GAP. SWEATPANTS AERIE. OWN SHOES. 76 -iD
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#HOTLIGNEBLING #HOTLIGNEBLING #HOTLIGNEBLING #HOTLIGNEBLING #HOTLIGNEBLING #HOTLIGNEBLING
BELLA WEARS HOODIE ALEXANDER WANG.
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a new perspective TEXT IVONNE RIVAS
Kylie Petrie, age twenty, is a photography major at Savannah College of Art and Design. This young upcoming artist is looking to persue her dreams of being a well-known photographer.
Kylie, what inspires you to create your work every time you have an assignment? When I have an assignment, I always try and do something that I’m really excited about. Doing art is something that makes me really happy, and is a coping mechanism for treating my depression. Creating art is therapeutic! I want to really delve into it and be into a project. How would you describe this generations upcoming aesthetic, or your own aesthetic, when it comes to art and photography? What moves you, what motives do you have, what inspirations do you think when you look at something? What kind of urges do you have when wanting to create art? As far as me, personally, I like to create something that is somewhat timeless rather than something that is trending now What are your favorite photographers or atists? Actually, when you opened [ID Magazine], you opened it to Ryan McKinley, and he is really inspirational to me, I love his work. I love his use of color, and his subject matter. I just really like naked youth, and the desexualizion of all of it [in his work]. How do you come up with an Idea? You said you like to get excited, and that art is a coping mechanism for you. So, what is your process? I’ll sit and I’ll brainstorm and I always write ideas down in my phone, so sometimes I’ll go back to things I have written down. A lot of times it will be something that pops into my head, or I’ll see something that inspires me. The other day, I was driving down the highway and I saw this lot, just a barren lot with a bunch of cut down trees and I was like, “that’s really interesting subject matter,” so [Emma and I] went there and we did a shoot. You said that you don’t necessarily do what’s “trending” now, but try instead to create something timeless. Would you say that any trends do inspire you? You mentioned “naked youth,” and desexualization of that as a theme, so what are themes that you feel like you are displaying in your work? Yeah, and I see where your’e coming from. [Naked youth and desexualization] is definitely something that’s trending, and something that is really important. I guess I don’t like to follow trends of fashion, I don’t want to put down fashion or anything , it’s just not what I’m focusing on. So, what I mean by “creating timeless images,” that’s why I really like nude photography. Nude photography is timeless. It’s not going to go out of style. Are you fascinated by the human body, or is the contrast between humans and nudity, and the scenery you bring them to—is that what you are fascinated by? Definitely a combination of both. I Like the abstract of the human body, and putting it in nature, and also just bringing light to the human body—especially in regard to desexualization of the body. 78 -iD
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