DENIM PROJECT by Sagarika Kalita

DENIM, THE BLUE FABRIC BY SAGARIKA KALITA

ABOUT The project aims to take us through a journey of the dazzling blue fabric through the world of indigo which in other term is called ‘denim’. To enhance the knowledge of the most versatile and sought after fabric that has twill weave and warp dyed in indigo we will be guided through the comprehensive processes and stages of denim, from the basic understanding of its raw material cotton, from the history of cotton to the stages of spinning, dying and weaving and finally arriving at the finished garment. Exploring different kinds and types of Industrial denim ; selvedge denim, we were to research the history, cultural importance and its influence on fashion trends. The project sets the context for us to explore the brands in the market that expertise in denim and denim product, understand the usage and the characteristics. The significance of denim in the social environment, work environment and as leisure, the cultural influence it had on the generations from movies to catwalks. This project gives us an opportunity to get the in-depth knowledge about denim, product ranges, recyclability and sustainability. The effort is to build a strong connect with the industry with denim as the premise during the project.

INTRODUCTION TO COTTON

Cotton factory in Vietnam in 1987

Cotton has been used as a fibre at least since 3000 B.C. in India an been found in Indus valley in Pakistan and in the coastal valleys of Pe from ancient Egypt were wrapped in linen. Even so samples of cotton arguably the world's most important nonfood crop. It supplies about material in half the world's textiles despite competition from synthetic and interlock when spun into long strands that can be is easily dyed. quickly make it into cloth was a driving force behind the Industrial Re behind the slave economy in the southern United States and in turn a kept the colonial economies going in places like India and Egypt.

Cotton seller, 1880

nd the Americas. Fragments of 4000-year-old cotton cloth have eru. In ancient Peru mummies were wrapped in cotton while those n have from ancient Egypt have also been found. Cotton is 80 percent of the world's natural fibers and continues to be primary c fibers. Cotton is ideal fore making cloth because its fibers bond . Cotton was once called white gold. Developing the machinery to evolution. Providing labor to produce it for these machine was and indirect cause of the American Civil War. Making money from it

arguably the world's most important nonfood crop. It supplies about 80 percent of the world's natural fibers and continues to be primary material in half the world's textiles despite competition from synthetic fibers. Cotton is ideal fore making cloth because its fibers bond and interlock when spun into long strands that can be is easily dyed. Cotton was once called white gold. Developing the machinery to quickly make it into cloth was a driving force behind the Industrial Revolution. Providing labor to produce it for these machine was behind the slave economy in the southern United States and in turn and indirect cause of the American Civil War. Making money from it kept the colonial economies going in places like India and Egypt.

UNDERSTANDING COTTON, AS A RAW MATERIAL

The cottonseed is crushed in order to separate its three products – oil, meal and hulls. Cottonseed oil is used primarily for shortening, cooking oil and salad dressing. The meal and hulls that remain are used either separately or in combination as livestock, poultry and fish feed and as fertilizer.

BT COTTON

Countries who cultivate cotton

Bt cotton has been genetically modified by the insertion of one or more genes from a common soil bacterium, Bacillus thuringiensis. These genes encode for the production of insecticidal proteins, and thus, genetically transformed plants produce one or more toxins as they grow.

CHARACTERISTICS AND TYPES ORGANIC COTTON

•Organic cotton is water-intensive to grow. 70% to 80% of organic cotton is estimated to be rain-fed rather than irrigated. •It is grown without any chemical insecticides or synthetic fertilizers, meaning it’s better for your health, and runoff won’t have a negative impact on rivers and local water systems. •It is completely handpicked, preserving the purity of every fiber and ensuring that no fiber is damaged in the process.

BT COTTON

•Farming starts with GMO or genetically modified seeds. They are modified to build resistance to bugs, but when the bugs become stronger, more pesticides are required. •It uses a large amount of chemicals. The use of heavy metals, chlorine, and chemicals dyes are not unheard of in the manufacturing of regular cotton. •It is more in demand and supply, and is usually machine-picked to cope with the rush. This doesn’t maintain the purity of the fibers, and also damages cotton fibers in the picking process, leading to loss and wastage.

•What is cotton count?

Cotton Count is specifically a way of describing the size of spun fibers and yarns. Cotton Count (NeC): The number of 840 yard lengths of material in one pound.

FAIRTRADE COTTON

Fairtrade-certified cotton farmers get a guaranteed price for their crop. This price never falls below the amount it costs them to grow the cotton, which means they can plan to improve the lives of their families and develop their communities. Fairtrade cotton is produced without using the most harmful pesticides, child labour or forced labour. It gives workers in cotton fields fairer wages and working

•What different types of cotton fabric? Chambray •6 Common Canvas uses of Denim cotton? Corduroy Fabric Crepe Bandage Twill Medical and Drill personal Organdy care Organza Coffee filter Gingham Cottonseed Poplin oil Gabardine Canvas Voile etc.

Roving bobbins

Spinning machine & Hand-spun

After the spinning process is complete these roving bobbins are kept ready for the weaving process.

The cotton spinning process is a term that is used to describe the process in which fibres pass through the carding machine that separates the fibres to become yarn and then eventually be ready to be weaved or knitted. During this process, the cotton is thoroughly cleaned through a rigorous cleaning process. The fibres are then combed by a range of machinery and are finally spun to form soft textured yarn. Once the cotton has been transformed into a knitted cotton fabric it is then put on a truck to be taken to the dyeing factories.

Looms weave cotton yarns into fabrics the same way the first hand-weaving frames did. Modern looms work at great speeds, interlacing the length-wise yarns (warp) and the crosswise yarns (weft). Weaving stage

UNDERSTANDING OF INDIGO INDIGO DYEING •What is natural dyeing? Natural dyeing involves making dyes from naturally occurring ingredients such as leaves, roots, barks, berries, nuts, funghis and lichens, as well as from minerals, they are used to impart color on yarn, fabric and other textiles. History shows us that for thousands of years people have been making their own dyes to color yarn, fleece, clothing and household textiles. There is something almost magical about using truly organic ingredients that you’ve sourced from the natural environment to make your own dyes.

•What is Vat dyeing? Vat dye, any of a large class of water-insoluble dyes, such as indigo and the anthraquinone derivatives, that are used particularly on cellulosic fibres. The dye is applied in a soluble, reduced form to impregnate the fibre and then oxidized in the fibre back to its original insoluble form. Vat dyes are especially fast to light and washing. Brilliant colours can be obtained in most shades.\

•What is the difference between natural & industrial indigo dyeing? While natural indigo is derived from plants, the synthetic variety is chemically created. The main difference between the two is that the natural dye is sustainable, whereas synthetic indigo is derived from petrochemicals, and the manufacturing process yields toxic waste products.

DENIM, THE BLUE FABRIC WHAT IS DENIM?

. Raw denim . Selvedge Denim . Knitted Denim . Ramie cotton Denim

Denim is a type of cotton textile known for its use in blue jeans and other clothing items like jackets and shorts. It has a sturdy twill weave with a characteristic diagonal ribbing. The History of Denim Fabric Denim was first produced in the city of Nîmes in France, and was originally called the serge de Nîmes. The word denim is an English colloquialism of the French term: “de nim.” Denim became popular in the United States during the Gold Rush in 1853, when Levi Strauss opened up a shop in San Francisco selling dry goods along with buttons, threads, and canvas for tents. He began making durable pants for miners with big pockets for storing gold.

How Is Denim Made?

After cotton fibers are harvested and spun into yarn, the yarns are dyed. The jeans are often indigo-dyed, making them the classic blue color for denim. Cotton denim is woven either on a shuttle loom or a projectile loom. A shuttle loom produces what’s called selvedge denim. The weft thread is passed through the warp threads in a back and forth motion, with no breaks in the weft. This creates a very smooth and sturdy selvedge edge. A projectile loom produces non-selvedge denim because there is a single weft thread for every row and not one thread woven throughout. This creates a more delicate edge that needs to be sewn to keep from fraying.

DENIM FABRIC TREATMENT

1.Stone washed- In traditional washing process, volcanic rocks or pumice rocks are added to the garment during washing. 2.Laser technology- A computer controlled process for the fading of denim. 3.Spray technique- Based on spraying chemicals or pigments to achieve different effects. 4.Sandblasted- Sprayed with sand or chemicals during the wash process to create a worn out appearance. 5.Denim bleaching- A strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hypochlorite is added during the washing. 6.Vintage/Dirty- Usually created with brown filler yarns.

BRAND STUDY ANALYSIS, NAKED AND FAMOUS Naked & Famous is a Canadian denim brand largely known for creating some of the most innovative and unorthodox raw denim products on the market. Naked & Famous was founded in 2008. Their headquarters is in Montreal, Quebec. INVENTOR- Brandon Svarc. After growing tired of celebrity culture and its impact on the denim industry, Svarc wanted Naked & Famous to be a purely product-based denim label that cut out celebrity endorsement and advertising. He hoped that this approach would result in an affordable, high-quality product. The brand was founded on the principles of No washes, no embroidery, no gimmicks.

Available in more than 20 countries worldwide

Fabric Source and woven in Japan.

Manufacture in Canada.

Distribution : Website/Authorized Retailers/Fashion boutiques/Departmental stores/ Online shopping

CORE BUSINESSNaked & Famous Denim‘s first flagship store is in New York City. Pioneering Canadian apparel market Mainly known for raw denim jeans Products for both men & women. OPERATIONMore than 250 stores worldwide Located in 20 countries.

The sole use of Japanese raw denim is integral to the philosophy of Naked & Famous. Naked & Famous jeans come in a range of fits, with the slim-tapered ‘Weird Guy’ fit becoming a somewhat iconic silhouette in the world of contemporary raw denim. BRAND IDENTITY Their jeans usually stick to the The brand name Naked & Famous archetypal five-pocket is a satire of our celeb-obsessed construction, which keeps them culture. versatile and applicable any wardrobe.

PURPOSECreate unique jeans Be special for a normal price

INNOVATIVE DESIGNS DEVELOPED

COLLABORATION WITH OTHER BRANDS & STOREThe Naked & Famous Denim x Dragon Ball Z Capsule Collection. The personas of Goku, Cell, Vegeta and Trunks are transformed in the form of Japanese Raw Denim.

Scratch and smell

World’s heaviest denim weight- 32oz

Glow in the dark denim

SEASONAL COLLECTIONS- Spring Summer 2020-selvedge and weave

The Toxic Avenger is now commemorated in denim form.

The collection features unique fabrics inspired by the classic 1984 film Ghostbusters® TARGET AUDEIENCE Trendy and explorative customers Upper and middle class- affordable products. Age between 18-44 Regular fits Small physique and plus size body types

ALTER EGO An alter ego is a secondary self. The fascination behind an alter ego is in its secrecy—it’s almost always a second identity or life that is being hidden from a person or character’s friends, family, and others around them.

CREATING MY ALTER EGO

At first, I followed the step of identifying a character that I would like to be like. There is this character ‘Dina’ from a movie called ‘Girls Trip’. She is this fierce woman, enjoying life to her fullest. Not giving a damn about what others think or say. It’s like she knows she owns it, she be the queen!!!! I saw myself in her when I am not myself!

Then I started listing what kind of personality I would like to be, or act to be when required!

The reason I chose this age is because I fee it’s the time when you really grow out from dependency and emerge as a new self, no trapped into restrictions and start growin better with maturity. I started listing my personality traits

e e

el m ot ng

Akakhi is the other side of Sagarika, when in a newer atmosphere. It’s like her socializing nature comes out when there is no one to hold her back!!! - Family -Restrictions - decorum -known people/surrounding

She has a talent of art, being very good at graffiti- even though she is a music student. Kind of like multi-talented!!

Akashi is very adventurous, outspoken, speaks her mind. Straight forward, exploring the true meaning of life. Loves exploring unknown routes, interacting with new people.

CHARACTER BUILDING

Akakhi- meaning sky in A because I want to be limitle myself in various

Assamese. (Chose this ess in terms of exploring aspects of life)

I want my character image to be bold and someone who looks friendly and approachable plus fun! Gives a very energetic vibe!!

CHARACTER BOARD

Name: Akakhi Age: 21 years old Gender: Female Occupation: Music student Motto: ‘Make everyday count’ 0mmph: Optimistic approach towards life and has crazy grafitti skills Akakhi is a self-sufficient and fearless personality who knows her worth; she is this courageous person and has a strong confidence in her abilities. Living her own code of life with mad skills of grafitti art, she makes art wherever she travels to, to leave a mark of her presence there. She loves it when she is in a new and unknown surrounding where nobody knows her background; it makes her inner self come rushing out to explore the bits of life. She can be quite crazy and mischievous, not giving a damn to societal norms as such. She has a thing for skateboarding her ways out, she loves wandering around unseen places and discovering herself. She has a dog named ‘Pluto’, he is a Labrador. She takes him with her in her ventures. She stands up for what is right and speaks her heart out without fearing any judgments. She doesn’t care much about presenting herself appropriately, she is happy with her limited collection of bigger than her sized clothes. She likes to remain in her high zone most of the time to see with another pair of eyes and experiencing life in a different world.

MOODBOARD

ASSERTIVE ADVENTUROUS MISCHIEVIOUS

INSPIRATION BOARD ROUGH TEXTURED

PATCHWORK

ARTISTIC

OVERSIZED

CRUSHED LOOK

INITIAL ITERATIONS These ideations have detailing of panels, use of quilting, patchwork of different fabrics or textures

OVERSIZED, ARTISTIC, PATCHWORK

of denim fabrics

OVERSIZED, ARTISTIC, PATCHWORK

These ideations consist of seamlines, overlapping, combinati

OVERSIZED, ARTIS

ion of materials etc.

STIC, PATCHWORK

zipper openning at back

loose sleeves Artistic short bell sleeves tube top artistic slit strap

patched panelling

panelling

cut-out

high overfold

shorts ripped texture

overlapping layer

overlapping

kind of like a lapel

Mesh layer

layer/ over shrug

Dress/One piece

Puff sleeves

Waist band

zipper Quilted upper torso

patched pocket long tunic

Denim fabric patchworks and art too

straps

pleated patchwork layer patchwork

Slit

Overlapping layer

hoodie Short sleeves overcoat

bell sleeves patched fabrics

buttons

half sleeves

overlapping panel zipper

Thic straps

side seam pocket zipper, pocket openning patchwork

artistic patched panel artistic panel

shirring patchwork Overfold trouser

shift dress

Top

Short Jacket

overlapping panel, quilted

Panelling

side zipper openning

Patch pocket

Zipper

Quilted patch pocket

strap

overlapped layer

Ripped texture

layerring, artistic

trouser

Jogger type trouser

Cut-out

SPEC SHEET OF FINAL RANGE Neckline depth- 10”

Sleeves- 11.2 “

Lapel (W)

Patche Pocket Length- 42 “

Patc Pan

)- 3”

ed t - 5.5 “(W) 9.5” (L)

ch nelling Sleeves- 7” (1st layer) 21” (2nd layer)

Inseam Pocket- 5”

Inseam pocket- 6”

Length- 28”

Patched Panelling

Hood- 14.5”

Sleeves- 25” Button- .5 “

Length- 32”

Panel (L)-8” Waist band- 2”

Side Pocket- 5.5”

Length- 32.5”

Shirring- 7”

Pocket- 6”

Length 35”

Sleeves- 7”

Patched Panel- 11”

Length- 17”

Sleeves- 8.5”

Waist band- 2”

Skirt length- 13.5” Length-23.5”

Godet- 6” (L)

Waist (W)- 3”

Outer layer- 21” Panel length- 25.5”

Box pocket- 5”

FINAL RANGE hoodie overcoat

loose sleeves overlapping kind of like a lapel

bell sleeves

patched fabrics buttons

patched pocket

Skirt

zipper, pocket openning artistic panel

patchwork

shirring patchwork trouser

Extended Cap sleeves

T-shirt

Top

Overcoat/ shrug Bone pocket Zipper slit

Double layered bell sleeves

Panelling

Overlapping layers Patchwork panels

Patch pocket Side artistic panel Denim fabric pathwork Artistic Panel

Cut out over layer

Trousers

THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE DENIM JACKET

A trucker jacket refers to a specific style of jacket often, however not generally, made out of denim. • Cropped cut that closes at the midriff • Thin, custom fitted cut • Buttons at sleeve, pocket, and front • Chest pockets with pointed folds • Two slants (or "Angular") creases that run from chest pocket to midsection • A point collars

These were some muslin test fitting for bodyfit jacket, overlayer jacket and jacket sleeves. The patterns were made according to our individual body measurements as we were to make the final jacket for ourselves.

BASIC TRUCKER JACKET FLAT SKETCH

BASIC TRUCKER JACKET SPEC SHEET -SAGARIKA KALITA

FINAL IDEATION FOR THE DENIM JACKET

Minor changes were made to the basic trucker jacket for my final ideation. There are panels at the front yoke of the jacket, the seamline at the back was doubled. The back yoke was layered with another small patched yoke and the buttons were to be metal snapped buttons instead of the plain metal ones.

FINAL JACKET PATTERN MAKING

MUSLIN EXPLORATION OF THE JACKET

FRONT

SIDE

BACK

The armhole needs to be readjusted

One side final jacket test fit, the measurements were alright and the panels were of the same measurements too. The armhole area was a bit tight and needed to be relaxed. Otherwise the fit seemed fine.

JACKET CONSTRUCTION ON THE FINAL FABRIC, DENIM

JACKET PANELS

Panels for the Front of the Jacket

Test fitting on dress form before starting to stitch the denim jacket. All panels were stitches in the beginning, the joining parts of the front and back were left open to first see the fall of the jacket on the dress form.

Panels for the Back of the Jacket

FINAL JACKET LOOK Shoot done on self

DETAIL SHOTS OF THE JACKET

SELF REFLECTION Denim project was about understanding the journey of jeans and indigo dye, how it has evolved with time and where it is leading to? We learned the basic understanding of denim step by step, from its raw material, to manufacturing and production, to retailers and to consumers. Denim is the world’s most acceptable garment, everybody wears it. It was really interesting to understand the wet and dry processes which deliver at various explorations and unique textures, styles and statement. It was a shame that I couldn’t explore the process physically because of the situation right now. It really seems very interesting to me to explore a part of it and wait for the results to appear. But even with virtual communication I got to grasp some knowledge of it now. While learning about denim certain questions ran my mind, it’s affecting the environment? It’s covered with chemicals and how dangerous some processes might be? Is there ways to reduce waste produced? Etc. These are the things that I guess will take time to figure out. Coming to creating of Alter ego, it was very confusing to me at first, but then I gradually started connecting some dots and somewhere found my alter ego, this was a very good exercise I felt. Working on you, something related to yourself is always filled with excitement and more enthusiasm. I enjoyed developing my character and building a story for her. During the process of ideations, I was struggling a lot since I couldn’t figure out what to design? How to start? Where to start? Etc. But I let my thoughts overpower me to start doing something and then after discussing with the mentors things started making more sense and then I started working towards it. Overall the denim project was interesting, but obviously physically experiencing it would have a different impact on everybody.