BY SAGARIKA KALITA
ABOUT This project is focused on the understanding of the construction of one of the most complicated piece of garment, The Jacket. A Jacket is an outer covering or a garment for the upper body. We had to do tracing of the emergence of the garment, its historical, geographical, social, cultural, political and technological, aspects associated with it. The idea was to develop a process of our understanding of making a jacket, incorporating techniques learned throughout the terms. Taking inspiration from the trends surrounding us today and converting it into a jacket was the final motif.
UNDERSTANDING JACKETS TYPES OF JACKETS
AAjacket jacketisisaamid midstomach stomachlength lengthgarment garmentforthe fortheupper upperbody. body.ItIt usually has sleeves and fastens in the front or slightly on usually has sleeves and fastens in the front or slightly on theside. side. A jacket is a mid stomach length garment forthe upper body. It usuallythe Some jackets are fashionable while some are for protective Some jackets are fashionable while some are for protective has sleeves and fastens in the front or slightly on the side. reasons. Some jacketsreasons. are fashionable while some are for protective reasons.
REVERSE ENGINEERING
Parts of a windcheater jacket
T w m u n t
To familiarize ourselves we went through the process of ‘Reverse engineering’ to understand the jacket in a better way. In this we had to dismantle each part of the garment and understand the process of how it must have been made. We constantly had to keep in mind the details, materials used, pattern of making, the construction etc to understand the direction. This was going to help us develop our designs and come up with our individual narratives. The whole process was aimed at openning our minds to the possibilities of constructing a garment like the jacket, exploring and recording time to time was to help us come up to the final jacket.
To familiarize ourselves we went through the process of ‘Reverse engineering’ to understand the jacket in a better Tohad familiarize ourselves we went the process of ‘Reverse engineering’ understand the been jacket in a better way. In this we to dismantle each part of through the garment and understand the process of to how it must have way. In this we had to dismantle each part of the garment and understand the process of how it must made. We constantly had to keep in mind the details, materials used, pattern of making, the construction etc to have been made. We constantly had to keep in mind the details, materials used, pattern of making, the construction etc to understand the direction. This was going to help us develop our designs and come up with our individual understand the direction. This was going to help us develop our designs and come up with our individual narratives. The whole process was aimed at openning our minds to the possibilities of constructing a garment like narratives. whole process athelp openning our up minds to the of constructing a garment like the jacket, exploring andThe recording time towas timeaimed was to us come to the finalpossibilities jacket. the jacket, exploring and recording time to time was to help us come up to the final jacket.
E-PROLIFERATION & ECO_PRUDENTIAL
Merging of nature and technology
Advanced technology
Minimal approach
Energetic
E proliferation and and eco eco prudential prudential talks talks about aboutbringing bringing caution and advancement advancement of of technology technologytogether togetherand and making it the new purpose. purpose. Through Through recent recentyears yearswith with the hunt for a cleaner cleaner environment environment different differentkinds kindsof of technology has been been launched, launched, one one isis the thee-vehicles e-vehicles which aims at reducing reducing and and lessening lessening environmental environmental pollution problems. It explores the benefits benefits of of e-tech e-tech and and how howit’s it’sslowly slowly being celebrated as as aa new new and and soluble soluble trend. trend. I have tried to focus focus on on the the positive positive aspects aspectsof of technology for this this inspiration. inspiration. Even Even though though technology might might have have changed changed in in aa drastic drasticmanner manner which might even question question the the capabilities capabilitiesof ofhuman human power, still in some way or the other it has its own power, still in some way or the other it has its own benefits for the the world world ifif we we tend tend to to utilize utilizethe the benefits for resources thoughtfully. resources thoughtfully. Some Some Key Key directions: directions: Highlighting the importance importance of of EE- world: world:designs Highlighting the designs focused on futuristic futuristic and and minimalism minimalism to to touch touchthe the focused on bench bench of of sustainability. sustainability. Being cautions is is the the new new purpose: purpose:creating of Being cautions creating a a sense sense of awareness through design, design, and and focused focused on ondeveloping developing awareness through more more consciously. consciously. Matters of invention invention and and practicality: practicality:products Matters of products designed to solve solve problems problems and and make make aamark markwith with designed to time understanding. time and and understanding.
Structured, clean and straight forward silhouettes. Touch of boldness, energy and furturistic appeal. Textures like Tweed, Metallic, Smooth.
Space age design
Side zipper
Some key details considered: Some key details considered: Inseam pockets, Zipper opennings, Inseam pockets, Zipper opennings, panellings, high necks, front-backhigh necks, front-back panellings, opennings, overlapping, aestheticoverlapping, elements opennings, aesthetic elements etc. etc.
Gareth Pugh, collection
WGSN AND RUNWAY RESEARCH
Inseam pocket
Panelling and color blocking
Gareth Pugh, collection
-Number of panelling could played -Number of panelling could be be played with,with, -Adding pockets with a patch pocket. -Adding pockets withseams seams ororasas a patch pocket. -Using -Using of seamlines asasdesign elements. of seamlines design elements. -Color -Color blocking, playing theplacement placement of colors blocking, playingwith with the of colors with the with panels.the panels. -Use thicker strongerfabric fabric materials for structured looks. looks. -Use thicker and and stronger materials for structured
MOODBOARD
Expanding Ecological Futuristic Composed Vision Sustainable Utilitarian
The moodboard talks about how technology and ecology are or can go hand in hand. In todays world, a lot of new technologies have emerged which could be very beneficial for the environtment.
Environment conscious
Focused and Minimal Free sprited
IDEATIONS FOR JACKET
CLIENT PROFILE
CLIENT PROFILE
Name: Adalyn Murao Age: 20-25 years old Gender: Female
Name: Adalyn Murao The client is a well educated person pursuing her Age: 20-25 years oldand Economics; she is the studies in Sociology Gender: of Female founder an NGO and runs it alongside. She likes taking initiatives and responsibilities on her The client and is a well person shoulders loveseducated to help others in pursuing whateverher studies in Sociology and Economics; sheand is the way she can. She has a generous nature she is founder of an NGO and runs it alongside. very friendly towards the environment andShe likes taking initiatives andtoresponsibilities on lifestyle, her wildlife. She prefers live a sustainable shoulders and loves to help others in whatever buy products that last long, has good quality and way shevegan can. She has a generous nature and she is prefers products. very friendly towards the environment and wildlife. She prefers to live a sustainable lifestyle, buy products that last long, has good quality and prefers vegan products.
IDEATIONS FOR JACKET
IDEATIONS FOR JACKET
RENDERED IDEATIONS
This was the final silhouette that was chosen, i further did more ideations taking forward this silhouette.
CHOSEN SILHOUETTE IDEATIONS
FINAL DESIGN FOR THE JACKET
FINAL DESIGN COLOUR VARIATIONS
MUSLIN CONSTRUCTION PROCESS 1. The first thing which was constructed was the front panels, the extra lapel and the shawl collar which then proceeded towards the alignment of the zipper and then the linning after that. The zipper starts at the waistline and extends towards the end of the shawl collar.
3.
2. The zipper could be closed till the neck or be left half closed till the lapel intersection point. The edges of the zipper are also used as aesthetic purpose. Constructing the panels together was a struggle since a lot of layers were developed which lead to difficulty while stitching.
Constructing the lower part of the jacket was also challenging, aligning the panels together to get the desired shape was not easy. The panels also had inseam pockets. The back has a yoke which is diagonally constructed and the lower end is shaped to compliment the front of the garment. The front of the right panels are overlapped with the left panel, which also has a bone pocket.
4. Front of the jacket in process: Inseam pockets along the seamlines on the right side lower panel. Single bone pocket on the left side lower panel. Zipper doesn’t extend beyond waistline, right panel overlaps the left panel. Would be using different fabrics for pocket bags and linning of the jacket.
5. Final stage of the jacket: -All panels sticthed together. -Pockets and lapels attached along with linning for the jacket. -Two piece sleeves attached to the front and back of the jacket. The final muslin did have some complexities, couldn’t get accurate angels at some parts.
SPEC SHEET
Final jacket on the body
Lapel: 10”
Yoke: 5”(vertical) 7 1/2” (diagonal)
Double Lapel: 9 1/2” Upper torso: 15 1/2” Length: 26 1/2 “ Sleeve length: 22” Zipper: 12” Sleeve length: 22” Panel gap: 2” Inseam pocket: 5 1/2” Inseam pocket: 7 1/2” Lower torso: 11” Single bone pocket: 5” Panel: 7”
Back panel: 23”
Back panel: 26 1/2”
FITTING SHOOTS The shoulder must be more sharp and well structured. There shouldn’t be any pucker happening at the collar and lapel area.
FRONT VIEW
SIDE VIEW
The angels should be accurate at the lowr right panels. The sleeves should fall staright and shouldn’t have pckers.
The yoke should be diagonal and connecting to the sleeve and shoulder intersecting area. The shawl collar roll should be equal and the stand shouldn’t show.
The side seems alright. A little more proper sticthing at the sleeve and shoulder attaching area. The fall of the lower back panels should be parallel.
BACK VIEW
PHOTOSHOOT
Shoot- Outdoors Model- Shajadi Rahman