Karolina Sylwia Wilczek N0493118 Fashion Communication and Promotion Promotion and Context FASH20032
Fig 1: Y-3 2015 (2015) - front cover Fig 2: Naked mannequins (2014)
Contents Visual merchandising & in-store Creative direction Print and graphics Menswear
Visual merchandising & in-store
Visual merchandising & in-store
Open book
Fig 3&4: SEEK tradeshow (2015)
Fig 5&6: CSM MA15 (2015)
The trend consisting of storytelling and children’s books has come around due to the 150th anniversary celebration of Lewis Carroll’s novel, Alice in Wonderland. The designs taken from the novel consist of playing cards, characters and the pocket watch, all which are used for visual merchandising around stores as art or furniture. The theme is used within props for advertising campaigns such as Longchamp’s Fall AW15 campaign and is also an upcoming kid’s mega trend for AW 15/16. Disney’s fantasia soundtrack was the backing music to Prada’s AW15 Catwalk collection at Milan fashion week.
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Woodland smudge
Ocean breeze
Sandcast
Florescent midnight
Visual merchandising & in-store
Exposed
Fig 7: Premium tradeshow (2015)
Fig 8&9: Show&Order tradeshow (2015)
As the world becomes more virtual and streamline people want a more tactile experience. Industrial style can be an unfinished look and focuses on combining raw and pretty rough surfaces with clean, flat surfaces. It is a modern approach to inferior design and visual merchandising, often blended with minimalism and can have a masculine appeal. The main materials used are metal, steel, concrete and wood it is clutter free and simple and has a clean look, natural exposed brickwork and piping and bold light fittings all add to this industrial effect as well as exposed ceilings.
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Molt iron
Light bark
Ironcast
Midnight essence
Visual merchandising & in-store
Round about
Fig 10,11&12: Premium tradeshow (2015)
Movement is a key new trend for visual merchandising; skate boards, bicycles and surfboards are set to takeover. There are so many possibilities and exciting designs that can feature on a skateboard, the lively colours and designs are guaranteed to capture and engage consumers, skateboards which cover an entire wall is a visually stimulating way to create a statement. The Tour De France has inspired a new thrill and love for cycling and bikes therefore they will be introduced into stores as a prop.
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Blue lagoon
Bohemian rhapsody
Mid grey
Lutum
Creative direction
Creative direction
Carnal desire
Fig 13: Vogue cover October (1989)
Fig 14&15: Less is more but nothing is beautiful (2015) Fig 16: Rick Owens Menswear AW15 (2015)
Trend: nudity. Where? Everywhere. Why? Confidence, androgyny, discovering the beauty from within. Mario Testino presented his most famous and extraordinary images at his ‘In your face’ exhibitions in Berlin this January. He featured photographs of Claudia Schiffer, as well as, one of his close friends Kate Moss, exposing their bodies to the camera. Images presented at the exhibition spoke out to you, screaming confidence. What was always thought to be restricted, is now an everyday thing. i-D magazine’s Beauty Issue presented photographs of both females and males exposing their naked bodies with no shame. The issue caused controversy in media, which made the society start to accept the thought of ‘less is more, but nothing is beautiful’. 21st century is developing our creative minds within the technology, as well as, the view we have on each other.
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Californian raspberry
Iris
Lavender delight
Sunset
Creative direction
Free spirit
Fig 17: Mecaw feathers (2013) Fig 18: Howling wolf (2015)
Fig 19: Steve Smyth portrait (2015) Fig 20: Moschino Menswear AW15 (2015)
The bearded man has taken over and will continue to do so into A/W, this lumberjack look has inspired the new trend of free spirit. Think freedom and bohemia, colour burst of feathers will be introduced as well luxury leather goods, suede fringing and fantastical fur. Nature is a key feature within this trend through woodland colours, get back down to earth with barky brows, leafy greens and rusty reds; it’s a playful trend which has no limit, release you’re inner free spirit.
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Sahara sands
Pine needles
Metallic lavender
Warm chestnut
Creative direction
It’s a man’s world
Fig 21: JW Anderson Menswear AW15 (2015) Fig 22: Circumcision of Christ Flemish (1601)
Fig 23: Andreja Pejic backstage at Giles AW15 (2015) Fig 24: Rick Owens Menswear AW15 (2015)
‘‘It’s about rejecting nostalgia’: from wide collars to sleek leather jackets, the designer mixes styles from decades past for apocalyptic androgyny’ – Dazed Digital editor Kin Woo (2015) talks about J.W. Anderson breaking the rules of fashion with creating something new, however very expected from the 21st century’s culture. It is a trend which also reflects transgender which is becoming more common and embraced within the fashion industry, one example being model Andreja Pejic coming out as a transgender woman. Fashion trends have been influenced by not only the coming season, but also by society. Gender neutrality is now an everyday thing, and the designers like Rick Owens presenting a full collection of menswear with nudes and dresses, with androgynous long haired models, as well as J.W. Anderson who took a twist on pattern cutting and added femininity to his designs.
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Harlem renaissance
Concrete
Burnt peach
Pyrenees
Print and graphics
Print and graphics
Dystopian tropic
Fig 25&26: Streetwear before LC:M AW15 (2015) Fig 27: Flamingo (2013)
Brought to life by Heimtextle to Maison & Objet, tropics consist of exotic fauna, flora, landscapes and colours. Tropical fruit and prints are what take the spotlight this upcoming season, Flamingo’s, palm leaf and pineapple illustrations become a reoccurring element in designs and objects. Darker florals dominate offering a more sophisticated look, sultry, earthly tones sit on black or navy backgrounds replacing bright tropics from previous seasons. Oversized leaves offer a sophisticated, minimal interpretation of the classic tropical print.
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Maldives
Morning dew
Baby Spice
Hazardous
Print and graphics
Year 3000
Fig 28: Hood by Air AW15 (2015) Fig 29&30: CSM MA 2015 (2015)
Fig 31: Trompe l’oeil embellishments and industrial belting seen (2015)
Black leather, latex, tight sheer chiffon wrapped around the head, with zips all down the oversized top looking like an astronaut’s costume. Designers have now introduced a new trends for the AW15/16 collections which we have discovered as futurism. Charcoal black, navy, mustard yellow, sea blue and snow white create a colour palette representing year 3000. Colours and patterns flashing at you like strobe lights, none stop coming and changing at different angles and lighting.
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Obsolete
Pret-a-surfer
Casanova
Spruce branch
Print and graphics
Conflict
Fig 32: Marni AW15 (2015) Fig 33: Aldo campaign (2015)
Fig 34: Moncler AW15 (2015) Fig 35: Louis Vuitton AW15 (2015)
Menswear prints look to the East for Fall/Winter, consisting of interior-inspired patterns with hints of Arabian exoticism to create a culture clash of prints. Bold pops of winter brights can also be used to add a statement touch to dark seasonal colours. This print expresses a modern East meets West appeal. Michael Ginsberg’s designs are particular inspired with layers of clashing prints from the film Mad Men, which is also a key influence in the resurrection of leather bags, sharp suits and printed shirts.
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Ripe grapefruit
Wonderland
Wannabe
Saturn rings
Menswear
Menswear
Cutting it fine
Fig 36: Nicomede Talavera LC:M AW15 (2015) Fig 37: Flamboyant tailoring (2015)
Fig 38: Balmain AW15 (2015) Fig 39: Streetwear LFW (2015)
Thinking of a suited gentleman, your mind automatically thinks: well fitted, smart, confident, elegant, handsome and eveningwear. In the coming AW season, designers e.g.: Balmain’s Oliver Rousteing compromised the elegant occasion-wear and gave his consumers something to cooperate with during daytime. Bringing out sophistication but simplifying it through khaki and turquoise shades. Tailoring is all about simple but smart – white shirt, black tie and suit, by adding colour to the garments you create a more casual look, more comfortable and this is what the consumers want. Keeping it smart with a casual pattern.
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Azul
Lake Vanda
Blanc
Warm chestnut
Menswear
Uneven
Fig 40: Kiss me I’m delicious (2015) Fig 41&42: Telfar AW15 (2015)
Gender neutrality and transgender has currently got a huge influence on fashion and its society. With the model Anreja Pejic coming out as a transgender female and Rick Owens presenting a full collection with up frontal exposure, the topic of homosexuals and androgyny has gone viral throughout January. It is now a very common thing to be gay, society accepts it and gets influenced by it. Asymmetric trend of the uneven pattern cutting, as well as, feminine garments at J.W. Anderson’s AW15 runway has been influenced by everything that is happening to our society. A century ago, homosexuals and transgender were a taboo topic – now it’s a reality. Fashion talks about it and exposes it in a form of clothing as well as photography, with an example of The Beauty Issue of the i-D magazine.
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Snow White
Scaffolding
Sustainable
Vulnerable
Menswear
Downtown funk
Fig 43: Streetwear LFW (2015) Fig 44: Public School NYC AW15 (2015)
Fig 45: Streetstyle by WGSN (2015)
Street wear is the perfect combination of comfort and style, street wear has officially gone luxurious thanks to a new generation of fashionistas. Astrid Andersen’s collections epitomises street chic with an innovative twist incorporating Japanese style, fusing basketball uniform silhouettes with Japanese sumo inspired aprons, just one example of how street wear can be taken to exciting new levels. Monochrome dominates, with oversizing and long tees taking centre stage, zips are the essential accessory, and of course finish the look with a killer pair of kicks.
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Forest escape
Crystal
Faded
Arabian spices
Bibliography
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List of references Anon., 2015. Adidas originals x Kanye West. YouTube: .
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List of illustrations Figure 1. Uced, F., 2015. Y-3 2015 [digital image]. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/gallery/19189/25/y-3-aw15 [Accessed 11 March 2015]. Figure 2. Anon., 2014. Naked mannequins [digital image]. Available at: http://www.pentex-ltd.co.uk/images/ group.jpg. [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 3. Wilczek, K., 2015. SEEK tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 4. Wilczek, K., 2015. SEEK tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 5. Anon., 2015. CSM MA15 [digital image]. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/23734/1/central-saint-martins-ma-2015. [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 6. Anon., 2015. CSM MA15 [digital image]. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/23734/1/central-saint-martins-ma-2015. [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 7. Wilczek, K., 2015. Premium tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 8. Kanwal, A., 2015. Show&Order tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 9. Kanwal, A., 2015. Show&Order tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 10. Wilczek, K., 2015. Premium tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 11. Wilczek, K., 2015. Premium tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 12. Wilczek, K., 2015. Premium tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 13. Testino, M., 1989. Vogue cover October [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 14. Lebon, T., 2014. Less is more but nothing is beautiful [digital image]. Available at: https://i-d.vice. com/en_gb/article/nothing-is-beautiful [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 15. Lebon, T., 2014. Less is more but nothing is beautiful [digital image]. Available at: https://i-d.vice. com/en_gb/article/nothing-is-beautiful [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 16. Carvell, N., 2015. Rick Owens Menswear AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/592x888/Shows/AW2015/Paris/Mens/Rick_Owens/00210h_592x888.jpg [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 17. Fitzsimmons, M., 2013. Mecaw feathers [photograph]. Figure 18. Anon., 2015. Howling wolf [digital image]. Available at: https://lh6.ggpht.com/Ia9frAcakpPkdr-I9GYrqNvzjMIppl53yAeCD-QCp4a1J1VNLtUqrb3QbfL6ou4mUHdReA=s85 [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 19. Anon., 2015. Steve Smyth portrait [photograph]. London. Figure 20. Anon., 2015. Moschino Menswear AW15 [digital image]. Available at: https://lh6.ggpht. com/6N5sZlGB5IJKBxnk-piFKHDcukZdrtj9bc71lQfqJ5uSaX21ekDhI2qZ4uCOmtMmtsQNTA=s85 [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 21. Arcaro, V., 2015. JW Anderson Menswear AW15 [photograph]. London. Figure 22. Anon., 1601. Circumcision of Christ Flemish [digital image]. Available at: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ed/Circumcision_of_Christ_Flemish_17c.jpg [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 23. Trengove, P., 2015. Andreja Pejic backstage at Giles AW15 [photograph]. London. Figure 24. Virgile, V., 2015. Rick Owens Menswear AW15 [photograph]. Paris. Figure 25. Anon., 2015. Streetwear before LC:M AW15 [digital image]. Available at: https://lh4.ggpht.com/ q1Maed3H9LchE9ck3ec4zf0MzrgibzSRKkLdK3EMrntWcrRt4PKAzljDoxlPATl_Np8h=s85 [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 26. Anon., 2015. Streetwear before LC:M AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/ post/112542503526/and-its-game-over-for-mfw-bring-on-paris [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 27. Rolfsdotter, S., 2013. Flamingo [illustration]. New York. Figure 28. Anon., 2015. Hood by Air AW15 [photograph]. New York. Figure 29. Stoker, J., 2015. CSM MA 2015 [photograph]. London. Figure 30. Stoker, J., 2015. CSM MA 2015 [photograph]. London. Figure 31. Anon., 2015. Trompe l’oeil embellishments and industrial belting seen [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/post/112243030932/trompe-loeil-embellishments-and-industrial [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 32. Anon., 2015. Marni AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/ post/108536033804/playful-variation-of-the-seasons-fur-trend-with#post-notes [Accessed 1 March 2015].
Figure 33. Anon., 2015. Aldo campaign [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/ post/81007176841/banana-hands-saty-pratha-shoot-aldos-little [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 34. Anon., 2015. Moncler AW15 [digital image]. Available at: https://lh4.ggpht.com/p60SHTViPx7DITWvRePrB8WM_hd9itG4a5Mh6bRgo25AI2PddTo0GdO1yDnkfC7GaZ--=s85 [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 35. Anon., 2015. Louis Vuitton AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/ post/108914044718/kim-jones-tribute-to-christopher-nemeth-this#post-notes [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 36. Anon., 2015. Nicomede Talavera LC:M AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr. com/post/107700594995/redefined-tailoring-silhouettes-in-layered#post-notes [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 37. Anon., 2015. Flamboyant tailoring [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/ post/108656755563/flamboyant-tailoring-look-in-winter-pink-and [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 38. Anon., 2015. Balmain AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/ post/108817356759/olivier-rousteings-new-aristocrats-in-regal [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 39. Anon., 2015. Streetwear LFW [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/ post/108337736294/timeless-menswear-style-perfectly-coordinated#post-notes [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 40. Weir, H., 2014. Kiss me I’m delicious [photograph]. New York. Figure 41. Powers, A., 2015. Telfar AW15 [photograph]. New York. Figure 42. Powers, A., 2015. Telfar AW15 [photograph]. New York. Figure 43. Anon., 2015. Streetwear LFW [digital image]. Available at: http://kep.cdn.index. hu/1/0/767/7675/76756/7675605_b439d30bebb7cb647adc8d1f507d4109_wm.jpg [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 44. Anon., 2015. Public School NYC AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/ post/111124557272/formal-suiting-is-taken-down-a-few-notches-under [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 45. Anon., 2015. Streetstyle by WGSN [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/ post/109199028632/subtly-deconstructed-glen-check-coat-with-an#post-notes [Accessed 1 March 2015].