Trend report AW15 by Karolina Wilczek

TREND REPORT Autumn/winter 2015/2016

Contents

Visual merchandising & In-store || page 3 An Open Book || page 4 Exposed || page 5 Round about || page 6 Creative direction || page 7 Carnal Desire || page 8 Free Spirit || page 9 Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world || page 10 Print & graphics || page 11 Dystopian Tropic || page 12 Year 3000 || page 13 Conflict || page 14 Menswear || page 15 Cutting it fine || page 16 Uneven || page 17 Downtown Funk || page 18

Bibliography || page 19 List of references || page 19 List of illustrations || page 20

Visual merchandising & In-store

An Open Book Colour palette: Poison Ivy

The trend consisting of storytelling and children’s books has come around due to the 150th anniversary celebration of Lewis Carroll’s novel, Alice in Wonderland. The designs taken from the novel consist of playing cards, characters and the pocket watch, all which are used for visual merchandising around stores as art or furniture. The theme is used within props for advertising campaigns such as Longchamp’s Fall AW15 campaign and is also an upcoming kid’s mega trend for AW 15/16. Disney’s fantasia soundtrack was the backing music to Prada’s AW15 Catwalk collection at Milan fashion week.

Exposed

Colour palette: Concrete

As the world becomes more virtual and streamline people want a more tactile experience. Industrial style can be an unfinished look and focuses on combining raw and pretty rough surfaces with clean, flat surfaces. It is a modern approach to inferior design and visual merchandising, often blended with minimalism and can have a masculine appeal. The main materials used are metal, steel, concrete and wood it is clutter free and simple and has a clean look, natural exposed brickwork and piping and bold light fittings all add to this industrial effect as well as exposed ceilings. 5

Round About Colour palette: All that brass

Movement is a key new trend for visual merchandising; skate boards, bicycles and surfboards are set to takeover. There are so many possibilities and exciting designs that can feature on a skateboard, the lively colours and designs are guaranteed to capture and engage consumers, skateboards which cover an entire wall is a visually stimulating way to create a statement. The Tour De France has inspired a new thrill and love for cycling and bikes therefore they will be introduced into stores as a prop. 6

Creative direction

Carnal Desire Colour palette: Nudes

Trend: nudity. Where? Everywhere. Why? Confidence, androgyny, discovering the beauty from within. Mario Testino presented his most famous and extraordinary images at his ‘In your face’ exhibitions in Berlin this January. He featured photographs of Claudia Schiffer, as well as, one of his close friends Kate Moss, exposing their bodies to the camera. Images presented at the exhibition spoke out to you, screaming confidence. What was always thought to be restricted, is now an everyday thing. i-D magazine’s Beauty Issue presented photographs of both females and males exposing their naked bodies with no shame. The issue caused controversy in media, which made the society start to accept the thought of ‘less is more, but nothing is beautiful’. 21st century is developing our creative minds within the technology, as well as, the view we have on each other. 8

Free Spirit

Colour palette: Bohemian Rhapsody

The bearded man has taken over and will continue to do so into A/W, this lumberjack look has inspired the new trend of free spirit. Think freedom and bohemia, colour burst of feathers will be introduced as well luxury leather goods, suede fringing and fantastical fur. Nature is a key feature within this trend through woodland colours, get back down to earth with barky brows, leafy greens and rusty reds; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a playful trend which has no limit, release youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re inner free spirit.

It’s a man’s world Colour palette: Midnight

‘‘It’s about rejecting nostalgia’: from wide collars to sleek leather jackets, the designer mixes styles from decades past for apocalyptic androgyny’ – Dazed Digital editor Kin Woo (2015) talks about J.W. Anderson breaking the rules of fashion with creating something new, however very expected from the 21st century’s culture. Being a homosexual is now very common. A few years back, if you were gay or lesbian you were classed as ‘the odd one’. Special treatments took care of the ‘disease’ as some people called it. Channel4 documented these and presented in one of the episodes of ‘Undercover Doctor: Cure me, I’m gay’ where Dr Christian Jessen went undercover to find out more about the treatments and what exactly is being done to who are humans like any other. The programme was so popular it went viral. It gave people a great understanding on what we are being blind folded from. Another example is transgender. The trend which is becoming greater, blew society’s mind when model Andreja Pejic came out as a transgender woman. Fashion trends have been influenced by not only the coming season, but also by what is going on in the society. Androgyny is now an everyday thing, and the designers like Rick Owens presenting a full collection of menswear with nudes and dresses, with androgynous long haired models, as well as J.W. Anderson who took a twist on pattern cutting and added femininity to his designs.

Print and graphics

Dystopian Tropic Colour palette: Tropical Rainforest

Brought to life by Heimtextle to Maison & Objet, tropics consist of exotic fauna, flora, landscapes and colours. Tropical fruit and prints are what take the spotlight this upcoming season, Flamingoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, palm leaf and pineapple illustrations become a reoccurring element in designs and objects. Darker florals dominate offering a more sophisticated look, sultry, earthly tones sit on black or navy backgrounds replacing bright tropics from previous seasons. Oversized leaves offer a sophisticated, minimal interpretation of the classic tropical print. 12

Year 3000

Colour palette: Black on Black

Black leather, latex, tight sheer chiffon wrapped around the head, with zips all down the oversized top looking like an astronautâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s costume. Designers have now introduced a new trends for the AW15/16 collections which we have discovered as futurism. Charcoal black, navy, mustard yellow, sea blue and snow white create a colour palette representing year 3000. Colours and patterns flashing at you like strobe lights, none stop coming and changing at different angles and lighting. 13

Conflict

Colour palette: Opposites Attract

Menswear prints look to the East for Fall/Winter, consisting of interior-inspired patterns with hints of Arabian exoticism to create a culture clash of prints. Bold pops of winter brights can also be used to add a statement touch to dark seasonal colours. This print expresses a modern East meets West appeal. Michael Ginsbergâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designs are particular inspired with layers of clashing prints from the film Mad Men, which is also a key influence in the resurrection of leather bags, sharp suits and printed shirts. 14

Menswear

Cutting it fine Colour palette: In deep thought

Thinking of a suited gentleman, your mind automatically thinks: well fitted, smart, confident, elegant, handsome and eveningwear. In the coming AW season, designers e.g.: Balmainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Oliver Rousteing compromised the elegant occasion-wear and gave his consumers something to cooperate with during daytime. Bringing out sophistication but simplifying it through khaki and turquoise shades. Tailoring is all about simple but smart â&#x20AC;&#x201C; white shirt, black tie and suit, by adding colour to the garments you create a more casual look, more comfortable and this is what the consumers want. Keeping it smart with a casual pattern.

Uneven

Colour palette: Back to Basics

Androgyny and transgender has currently got a huge influence on fashion and its society. With the model Anreja Pejic coming out as a transgender female and Rick Owens presenting a full collection with up frontal exposure, the topic of homosexuals and androgyny has gone viral throughout January. It is now a very common thing to be gay, society accepts it and gets influenced by it. Asymmetric trend of the uneven pattern cutting, as well as, feminine garments at J.W. Anderson’s AW15 runway has been influenced by everything that is happening to our society. A century ago, homosexuals and transgender were a taboo topic – now it’s a reality. Fashion talks about it and exposes it in a form of clothing as well as photography, with an example of The Beauty Issue of the i-D magazine. 17

Downtown Funk Colour palette: Block Party

Street wear is the perfect combination of comfort and style, street wear has officially gone luxurious thanks to a new generation of fashionistas. Astrid Andersenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collections epitomises street chic with an innovative twist incorporating Japanese style, fusing basketball uniform silhouettes with Japanese sumo inspired aprons, just one example of how street wear can be taken to exciting new levels. Monochrome dominates, with oversizing and long tees taking centre stage, zips are the essential accessory, and of course finish the look with a killer pair of kicks. 18

Bibliography

List of references

Anon., 2015. Dazed Digital [online]. Dazed Digitial. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/ [Accessed March/1 2015].

Anon., 2015. WGSN Tumblr [online]. WGSN. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/ [Accessed March/2 2015].

Anon., 2014. What does ABC1 mean? [online]. Available at: http://www.abc1demographic.co.uk/ [Accessed December/28 2014].

Anon., 2011. BBC News - London Riots [online]. BBC News. Available at: http://www. bbc.co.uk/news/uk-14449675 [Accessed March/1 2015].

Gibson, E., 2002. Carnal Desire. USA.

Anon., 2015. Adidas originals x Kanye West. YouTube.

Bergström, B., 2008. Messages. In: Messages. Essentials of Visual Communication. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd, 2008, pp. 59. Bergström, B., 2008. Storytelling. In: Storytelling. Essentials of Visual Communication. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd, 2008, pp. 13. Bergström, B., 2008. Typography. In: Typography. Essentials of Visual Communication. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd, 2008, pp. 87. Gibson, E., 2002. Carnal Desire. USA.

Anon., 2015. Adidas originals x Kanye West. YouTube: .

Kinsella, F., 2014. The Beautiful issue. (Beauty). So, V., 2015. Telfar AW15 [online]. Dazed Digital. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital. com/fashion/article/23639/1/telfar-aw15 [Accessed March/1 2015]. Tsjeng, Z., 2015. What Rick Owens’ full-frontal runway show says about us [online]. Dazed Digital. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/23353/1/whatrick-owens-full-frontal-runway-show-says-about-us [Accessed February/27 2015]. Woo, K., 2015. J.W. Anderson AW15 [online]. Dazed Digital. Available at: http://www. dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/23160/1/j-w-anderson-aw15 [Accessed March/1 2015].

Kinsella, F., 2014. The Beautiful issue. (Beauty). Posner, H., 2011. Marketing Fashion. London: Laurence King Publishing Ltd. Ramos, P., Beauty portrait photography with sparklers [online]. . Available at: http:// www.picturecorrect.com/tips/beauty-portrait-photography-with-sparklers/ [Accessed January/3 2015]. So, V., 2015. Telfar AW15 [online]. Dazed Digital. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital. com/fashion/article/23639/1/telfar-aw15 [Accessed March/1 2015]. Tsjeng, Z., 2015. What Rick Owens’ full-frontal runway show says about us [online]. Dazed Digital. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/23353/1/whatrick-owens-full-frontal-runway-show-says-about-us [Accessed February/27 2015]. Woo, K., 2015. J.W. Anderson AW15 [online]. Dazed Digital. Available at: http://www. dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/23160/1/j-w-anderson-aw15 [Accessed March/1 2015].

List of illustrations

Figure 1. Wilczek, K., 2015. Colour palette [illustration]. Nottingham. Figure 2. Anon., 2014. Naked mannequins [digital image]. Available at: http://www.pentex-ltd.co.uk/images/group.jpg [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 3. Wilczek, K., 2015. Colour palette [illustration]. Nottingham. Figure 4. Hardaker, N., 2015. Alice in Wonderland [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 5. Hardaker, N., 2015. Alice in Wonderland [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 6. Wilczek, K., 2015. Bikini Berlin display [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 7. Anon., 2014. Easter bunny [digital image]. Available at: http://wickedfaeriequeen.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/i-have-felt-in-love-with-easter-bunny.html [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 8. Edwards, P., 2014. Interior Details and Signage for Edmund’s Oast [digital image]. Available at: http://www.stitchdesignco.com/environmental/interior-details-and-signage-for-edmunds-oast/ [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 9. Wilczek, K., 2015. Colour palette [illustration]. Nottingham. Figure 10. Kanwal, A., 2015. Show&Order tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 11. Kanwal, A., 2015. Show&Order tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 12. Kanwal, A., 2015. Show&Order tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 13. Kanwal, A., 2015. Show&Order tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 14. Kanwal, A., 2015. Show&Order tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 15. Wilczek, K., 2015. Colour palette [illustration]. Nottingham. Figure 16. Wilczek, K., 2015. Show&Order tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 17. Wilczek, K., 2015. SEEK tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 18. Wilczek, K., 2015. Panorama tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 19. Wilczek, K., 2015. SEEK tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 20. Wilczek, K., 2015. Show&Order tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 21. Anon., 2014. Storytelling [digital image]. Available at: http://dapresy.com/ wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Open-Book.jpg [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 22. Wilczek, K., 2015. Colour palette [illustration]. Nottingham. Figure 23. Carvell, N., 2015. Rick Owens Menswear AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http://cdni.condenast.co.uk/592x888/Shows/AW2015/Paris/Mens/Rick_ Owens/00210h_592x888.jpg [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 24. Lebon, T., 2014. Less is more but nothing is beautiful [digital image]. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/nothing-is-beautiful [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 25. Lebon, T., 2014. Less is more but nothing is beautiful [digital image]. Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/nothing-is-beautiful [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 26. Testino, M., 1989. Vogue cover October 1989 [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 27. Hanson, D., 2011. The Big Penis Book 3D [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 28. Wilczek, K., 2015. Colour palette [illustration]. Nottingham. Figure 29. Anon., 2015. Steve Smyth portrait [photograph]. London. Figure 30. Anon., 2015. Howling wolf [digital image]. Available at: https://lh6.ggpht.com/Ia9frAcakpPkdr-I9GYrqNvzjMIppl53yAeCD-QCp4a1J1VNLtUqrb3QbfL6ou4mUHdReA=s85 [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 31. Anon., 2015. Moschino Menswear AW15 [digital image]. Available at: https://lh6.ggpht.com/6N5sZlGB5IJKBxnk-piFKHDcukZdrtj9bc71lQfqJ5uSaX21ekDhI2qZ4uCOmtMmtsQNTA=s85 [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 32. Fitzsimmons, M., 2013. Mecaw feathers [photograph]. Figure 33. Wilczek, K., 2015. Colour palette [illustration]. Nottingham. Figure 34. Arcaro, V., 2015. JW Anderson Menswear AW15 [photograph]. London.

Figure 35. Trengove, P., 2015. Andreja Pejic (Storm) backstage at Giles AW15 [photograph]. London. Figure 36. Anon., 2015. Streetwear before LC:M AW15 [digital image]. Available at: https://lh4. ggpht.com/q1Maed3H9LchE9ck3ec4zf0MzrgibzSRKkLdK3EMrntWcrRt4PKAzljDoxlPATl_ Np8h=s85 [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 37. Virgile, V., 2015. Rick Owens Menswear AW15 [photograph]. Paris. Figure 38. Anon., 1601. Circumcision of Christ Flemish [digital image]. Available at: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ed/Circumcision_of_Christ_Flemish_17c.jpg [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 39. Banksy, 2013. Hell’s kitchen [illustration]. New York. Figure 40. Wilczek, K., 2015. Colour palette [illustration]. Nottingham. Figure 41. Wilczek, K., 2015. SEEK tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 42. Anon., 2015. Versace AW15 [photograph]. Milan. Figure 43. Anon., 2015. Streetstyle before NYFW shows [photograph]. New York. Figure 44. Wilczek, K., 2015. SEEK tradeshow [photograph]. Berlin. Figure 45. Rolfsdotter, S., 2013. Flamingo [illustration]. New York. Figure 46. Wilczek, K., 2015. Colour palette [illustration]. Nottingham. Figure 47. Stoker, J., 2015. CSM MA 2015 [photograph]. London. Figure 48. Stoker, J., 2015. CSM MA 2015 [photograph]. London. Figure 49. Anon., 2015. Hood by Air AW15 [photograph]. New York. Figure 50. Anon., 2015. Lanvin AW15 [photograph]. Paris. Figure 51. Anon., 2015. Prints [digital image]. Available at: https://lh5.ggpht.com/f3UJMIwyprimHicj9C6AY1-QIWBzsuv1SVByOxlgU7VK68UEAnNa_wkHZ7kVERi2PTtJTzo=s85 [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 52. Wilczek, K., 2015. Colour palette [illustration]. Nottingham. Figure 53. Anon., 2015. Marni AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/ post/108536033804/playful-variation-of-the-seasons-fur-trend-with#post-notes [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 54. Anon., 2015. Louis Vuitton AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr. com/post/108914044718/kim-jones-tribute-to-christopher-nemeth-this#post-notes [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 55. Anon., 2015. Streetstyle by WGSN [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr. com/post/112405724405/mens-knitwear-gets-a-sporty-twist-on-the-streets [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 56. Anon., 2015. Aldo campaign [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/ post/81007176841/banana-hands-saty-pratha-shoot-aldos-little [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 57. Anon., 2015. Moncler AW15 [digital image]. Available at: https://lh4.ggpht. com/p60SHTViPx7DITWvRePrB8WM_hd9itG4a5Mh6bRgo25AI2PddTo0GdO1yDnkfC7GaZ--=s85 [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 58. Anon., 2015. D&G Menswear AW15 finale [photograph]. Milan. Figure 59. Wilczek, K., 2015. Colour palette [illustration]. Nottingham. Figure 60. Anon., 2015. Nicomede Talavera LC:M AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http:// wgsn.tumblr.com/post/107700594995/redefined-tailoring-silhouettes-in-layered#post-notes [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 61. Anon., 2015. Streetwear by WGSN [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr. com/post/108255676601/sartorial-hunting-look-with-high-vis-waistcoat#post-notes [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 62. Anon., 2015. Streetwear by WGSN [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr. com/post/108337736294/timeless-menswear-style-perfectly-coordinated#post-notes [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 63. Anon., 2015. Balmain AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/ post/108817356759/olivier-rousteings-new-aristocrats-in-regal#post-notes [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 64. Anon., 2015. Valentino AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn.tumblr.com/

post/108822203658/understated-wool-parka-with-monochrome-winter#post-notes [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 65. Wilczek, K., 2015. Colour palette [illustration]. Nottingham. Figure 66. Powers, A., 2015. Telfar AW15 [photograph]. New York. Figure 67. Powers, A., 2015. Telfar AW15 [photograph]. New York. Figure 68. Anon., 2015. Streetwear before LC:M AW15 [digital image]. Available at: https://lh4.ggpht.com/q1Maed3H9LchE9ck3ec4zf0MzrgibzSRKkLdK3EMrntWcrRt4PKAzljDoxlPATl_Np8h=s85 [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 69. Anon., 2015. Christopher Kane AW15 [photograph]. London. Figure 70. Weir, H., 2014. Kiss me I’m delicious [photograph]. New York. Figure 71. Wilczek, K., 2015. Colour palette [illustration]. Nottingham. Figure 72. Anon., 2015. Kanye West x Adidas 2015[digital image]. Available at: https:// lh4.ggpht.com/6rJn6l2MwwsT4eAAnZ4FUVlVkhzy8X7ruaatTCCFi5r-e0FDdjZ8nJnsEX9Xsl7hFn57bQ=s85 [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 73. Anon., 2011. London riots [digital image]. Available at: https://lh4.ggpht.com/ ecGUABJiP4KDwmBGuv23xGH3f69cqeZlcNyr7-OTiaIJkKVUuimaGVPflio4pXuDCx26Dw=s85 [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 74. Anon., 2015. Streetstyle by WGSN [digital image]. Available at: http://wgsn. tumblr.com/post/109199028632/subtly-deconstructed-glen-check-coat-with-an#postnotes [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 75. Anon., 2015. Richard Chai AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSzjjNuYt8AgiLyNdBOdxUSdHpl0BgKSb2HXGFZbPjrsjENGWZg [Accessed 1 March 2015]. Figure 76. Anon., 2015. Public School NYC AW15 [digital image]. Available at: http:// wgsn.tumblr.com/post/111124557272/formal-suiting-is-taken-down-a-few-notches-under [Accessed 1 March 2015].

Fashion Communication and Promotion Year 2 FASH20032 Karolina Wilczek (N0493118) Lisa Hynard (N0511550) Nicole Hardaker (N0426510)