FABRIC PORTFOLIO B Y KATA H R I N A G E R K E N
This port folio brin gs t oge t h e r ke y in format i o n o n ( un) s u s t ain able an d re - u s able mat e rials an al y z ed i n ter m s of prope rt ie s , applicat ion s an d s u s t ai n ab l e issues t o de live r a ru n down of fabrics an d t h ei r impact on ou r e n viron me n t .
TEXTILES MINOR 2019
TEXTILE THEORY BY M. MOONILAL
DISCLAIMER A l l f a b r i c s u s e d i n t h i s Fa b r i c Po r f o l i o w e re g i v e n a s e c o n d life. Meaning: the fabrics are leftovers from the street or from old fabric boxes, which carry leftovers. Furthermore, few fabrics are simply leftovers of my clothes, which I redesigned some time ago. It was personally really important to me to only use leftovers to work as sustainable as possible.
“ T H E G R E AT E ST T H R E AT TO OUR PLANET IS THE BELIEF T H AT S O M E O N E E L S E W I L L S AV E I T.”
ROBERT SWAN
INDEX INDEX INDEX
// 01 - 40 NAT U RAL F IBRES
03
WOOL
09
S ILK
15
COT TON
25
LINEN
31
LYOC ELL
35
VIS COS E
// 41 - 66 SYNT HET IC F IBRE S
43
POLYEST ER
51
AC RYLIC
55
NYLON
59 RU BBER
63
MIXED FA BRIC S
NATURAL FIBRES
P R OT E I N & C E L LU LO S E B A S E D M AT E R I A L S
WOOL SILK COTTON LINEN LY O C E L L VISCOSE
01 02
ANGORA MOHAIR
CASHMERE A L PACA
ALTERNATIVE
I MPAC T
WOOL
E NV I R O N M ENTAL IMPACT Th e pro d u c t i o n o f regula r wo o l re qu ire s e n ormou s amou n t s of lan d, as w e l l a s water an d energy, water, a nd ch e micals t o con ve rt t he wool from t he sh e e p in to a textile. As with o ther forms of an imal agricu lt u re , rais in g s he e p f or w o o l extinc t prec io us reso urce s . Lan d is cleare d an d t re e s are cu t d ow n t o m ake ro o m fo r gra zing, lea ding t o in creas e d s oil s alin it y an d e ros ion and a d e c rea s e i n bio diver sity. Sh e e p relea s e eno r mo us a mo unts of me t h an e gas in t o t he at mos phe re , w hi c h i nc reas e s t h e CO 2 emissio ns a nd t he re fore has an impact on climat e chang e ( Th e Ec o lo g ist, 2 0 1 9 ). A N IM A L WE LFAR E On t o p o f t h e great enviro nmen t al impact of wool, s he e p s u ffe r t e rri b l y i n t he i n du s t ry. Sheep a re mutilat e d, abu s e d, an d s kin n e d alive – e ve n for “re s po n s ibly so urc ed” wo o l o n dis in ge n u ou s ly n ame d “s u s t ain able ” farm s . Sh e e p a re s e nsitive prey a nima ls who are pron e t o pan ic whe n he ld dow n. Th i s mea n s that fo r millio ns o f s he e p worldwide , s hearin g is a t e rrify i ng , a s w e ll as pa inful o rdea l. Furthermore , s h eare rs le ft large , bloody wound s on s h e ep’s b o dies fro m fa st, ro u gh s h earin g, an d t he y s t it ch e d u p gap i ng w ou n d s w ith a needle a nd threa d an d n o pain re lie f ( Pe t a, 2019) . L AB O U R I S S UE S Furt h er m o re, the pesticides used t o con ve rt virgin wool are ext re m e l y h a rm f u l to th e wo r ker s. The toxin s u s e d are firs t of all in dire ct con t act w i t h t h e w o r ke r s , but seco ndly, they pollu t e t he grou n dwat e rs n ext t o fact ori e s , w h i c h i s a s evere a nd da ngero us s it u at ion for in h abit an t s ( Pe t a, 2018) . ORGA N I C & R E CYCLE D WO O L Org a n i c w o o l f ro m sheep that h ave n ot be e n expos e d t o ch e micals l i ke p e st i c i de s a n d a re kept in human e an d good farm con dit ion s are mayb e a b e tt e r a l t e r n ativ e to co nv entio na l wool, bu t n ot t h e be s t ch oice bas e d on t h e e nvi ro n m en t al issues. O rga nic a s we ll as re cycle d wool n e e d an e n ou rm o u s a mo u n t o n w ater a nd energy, which is n ot t h e mos t s u s t ain able opt ion . WO O COA Woo c o a i s a v ega n wo o l ma de from h e mp an d cocon u t fibe rs t reat e d w i t h e nzy mes ex t racted f ro m the o y ster mu s h room (Bio De s ign Ch alle n ge , 2 018). “ Co c o n u t fi ber is a n a gr icultural was t e t h at cou ld e con omically ben ef i t c ommu n i t i e s in the Ca r ibbea n coas t of Colombia. A n d h e mp cou ld be g ro w n a s a repl a c ement o f illega l cro ps on areas t h at we re afflict e d by t h e in tern al c onfl i c t w i t h the rebel gro up FARC, wh ich e n de d in 2 0 1 6 wit h a peace t reat y.” (Man u e l O r i t z , Wo o co a Tea m, 201 8 ). B ut w h i l e c o c onut f iber a nd hemp me t t h e re qu ire me n t s for s u s t ain abilit y, t h ey d id n o t feel at a ll like wo o l. So the t eam be gan expe rime n t in g wit h making t h e f ib e r s s o ft e r w ith mushro o m enzyme s t o de grade lign in , t h e organ ic polym ers that ma ke pl ant cells ha rd a nd rou gh . Th is made t h e cocon u t fibe r an d h em p muc h s o ft er a nd mo re wo o l-like (S mit h s on ian , 2 0 1 8 ).
03 04
FABRIC PROPERTIES FELT (WOOL)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Weft k nitt e d F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Inter lock - Pie ce Dye F A B R I C N A M E : Wo o l Felt C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : Lo ops on th e on e s ide are dore ctly oppos ite t h os e o n an o t h e r, t he sur f a ce str uct ure is clos e ly in te rlocke d, wh ich make s th e f ab ri c t hi c k a n d c o m p let ely o pa q ue. C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : WO P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : H eav y an d t hi c k fa b r i c w i th a f elt ed a nd ro u gh s u rface . Fabric is comple te ly opaq u e an d st iff . Th e k n i t co nst r uct io n is rea l ly tigh t. Th e fabric is s tre tch y in th e weft an d m o re t i g h t i n t he w a r p direct io n. S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : Z-t wis te d woole n S pu n Yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Piece Dy ed V I S I B L E F I N I S H ( E S ) : Felt ing
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
T H E R O W A / W 2 0 1 7 R E A D Y-T O - W E A R
PROTEIN BASED
05 06
FABRIC PROPERTIES FLANNEL (WOOL)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Pla in Weave - Pie ce Dye d - Un icolor F A B R I C N A M E : Unico lo r F la nn e l C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : Th e fabric is ligh twe igh t an d offe rs f l an n el i nd i c at i o n s s u c h a s a w o o len pla in weave , wh ich h as be e n rais e d du e to i t s s oft a nd s h o rt fe l t sur f a ce. C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : WO P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Lo w ext en s i b i l i t y a nd ela sticit y. Supple an d s oft fe e l. Low de n s ity, e ve n s ligh t l y s eet hrou g h . Th e fa br ic is light w eight an d matte . S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : S-t wis te d fibre yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Piece Dy ed V I S I B L E F I N I S H ( E S ) : Felt ing
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
O F F W H I T E S / S 2 0 1 7 R E A D Y-T O - W E A R
PROTEIN BASED
07 08
I MPACT
SILK
ALTERNATIVE
E NV I R O N M ENTAL IMPACT Wh e n d o n e well, silk ma nufa c turin g can be a h armon iou s an d low w as t e p roc es s . S ilk wo r ms keep a ra w, glu t e n - fre e , dairy- fre e die t wh ich con s i s t s e nt i rely o f mulber r y lea ves. The mu lbe rry is a h ardy t re e , re s is t an t t o pollut i on a nd ea s y to cultivate. The tree b ark h as me dicin al prope rt ie s an d t he frui t c a n be u s e d a s a natura l dye o r t o fill a pie . The leave s of t h e mu lbe rry w i l l f e e d t h e w o r m s a nd the wo r ms, in t u rn , can fe e d t he farme rs . N e v e rt h e les s , chemica ls ma y be u s e d in t h e clean in g or de gu mmin g of t he c oc o o n , s o s ilk ha s to be cho sen care fu lly ( Good On You , 2018) . A N IM A L WE LFAR E Th e bo m b y x m o r i pro duces a ro un d 90% of comme rcial s ilk. Le ft t o it s ow n d e v ic e s a s i lk wo r m mo th that is ready t o e me rge will make a s mall hole i n i t s c oc o o n th ro u g h which to esc a pe. This , h owe ve r, breaks t h e lon g s ilk s t ra nd s t h at ma ke u p the inner co c o o n. S ilk produ ce rs u s u ally pre fe r t o boil t he c oc o o n ( w ith the wo r m inside) so t h at t he lon g s t ran ds re main in t act , w hi c h i s extremely c r uel (Peta , 2 0 1 8 ). L AB O U R I S S UE S In s o me p a rt s o f India ser ic ultu re h as be e n an import an t e n t e rpris e for d e v elo p in g c o mmunities in ter ms of e mployme n t . Howe ve r, in 2003, Hum an Ri g h ts Watc h repo rted the a buse of child s lave s in t he In dian s ilk in du s t ry. Th e re po rt e stimated that so me 350,000 childre n work in t he s ilk in du s t ry ( G oo d O n Yo u, 2 0 1 8 ). WILD S I LK So me c o m p a nies a lso use ‘wild silkworms ’, wh ich mean s t h at t he worms l i v e i n a n en v i ro n ment that imitates t h e ir n at u ral habit at – e s s e n t ially t he y are f re e ran ge. Wild silkwo r ms pro du ce more du rable fabric, an d t he produ c e rs t e nd t o u s e f ewer chemica ls, bu t che micals are s t ill u s e d. The re fore “ W i l d si l k ” is n o t the best a lter native s in ce it is n ot t h e mos t s u s t ain able op t i on ( Pe t a , 2 0 1 7 ) .
S OY S ILK S oys i l k i s a s i lk-like f a br ic that is man u fact u re d wit h t h e s oy re s idu e le ft o v er f ro m p ro du c i n g to f u. H o wev er, it doe s u s e formalde h yde in t h e produc t i o n p ro c e s s , w h i c h is a kno wn ca rci n oge n . S oy s ilk is de fin e t e ly a reas on ab l e op ti o n t o c o nv entio na l silk, a lso in t e rms of t h e prope rt ie s (Th e Min im al i s t Ve g a n , 2 0 1 6 ) . PE AC E S I LK The s o - c a l l e d “Pea ce” silk is ma d e from t h e s ilkworm cocoon on ce t h e f u l l y g ro w n mo t h h a s a ba ndo ned it. No worms or mot h s are h arme d or exploi t ed i n th e p ro c ess, a nd Pea ce Silk is wild h arve s t e d rat h e r t h an farme d (Th e Mini ma l i s t Ve ga n, 2016) .
09 10
FABRIC PROPERTIES CREPE (SILK)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Pla in Weave - Pie ce Dye d - Un icolor F A B R I C N A M E : C rêpe Geo rgette C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : The fabric is ligh twe igh t an d s oft with an irreg u l ar a nd fi n e l y t ex t ured sur f a ce a nd a s an dy h an dle . Th e yarn s offe r a h igh am ou n t of t wi sti n g , w h i c h is ty pica l f o r a crêp e ge orge tte . C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : SI P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Lo w ext en s i b i l i t y a nd ela sticit y. Supple an d s oft fe e l. Th e fabric is s e e th rou g h . Th e f ab r i c i s l i g h t weight a nd matt e w ith a s an dy fe e l. S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : Z-twis te d filame n t yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Piece Dy ed VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
L A N V I N A / W 2 0 1 8 R E A D Y-T O - W E A R
PROTEIN BASED
11 12
FABRIC PROPERTIES LIGHT BLUE (SILK)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Wa r p S atin - Pie ce Dye d - Un icolor F A B R I C N A M E : Satin silk C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : The fabric is ligh twe igh t an d lu s trou s from the f ron t sid e , b u t m att e f ro m the ba ck side of th e mate rial. Th e re is a vis ible dom i n an c e o f wa r p y a r n s o n the f a ce side, there fore th e fabric is a s o- calle d warp s at i n . C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : SI P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Q u i t e l ow ext en s i b i l i t y and ela sticit y. Supple an d s oft fe e l. Th e fabric h as a really s moot h a nd s o ft s u r fa ce, w hich is lust ro u s . It is tigh tly wove n , th e re fore th e fa b ri c i s opaque. S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : S-twis te d filame n t yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Piece Dy ed VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
WALES BONNER S/S 2017 MENSWEAR
PROTEIN BASED
13 14
ALTERNATIVE
I MPACT
COTTON
E NV I R O N M ENTAL IMPACT A p p roxi mately ha lf o f a ll textile s are made of cott on , e ve n t h ou gh it has a n e n o r m o u s enviro nmenta l imp act . It t ake s u p t o 20.000 lit e rs of wat e r t o p rod u c e o n l y o ne kilo gra m o f co tt on , wh ich is e qu ivale n t t o on e cott on s hi rt ( WW F, 2 0 1 8 ) . Furt h er m o re, c o tto n is respo nsible for 25% of t he world’s pe s t icide us e , w h i c h are r u n ning into o ur water s ys t e m pois in in g ou r e n viron me n t . Th e Worl d Hea lth O rg a nisatio n co nsider s h alf of t he s e ch e micals t o be haz ardou s t o t h e en v i ro n m e nt a nd huma n hea l t h ( Tort ois e & Ladygre y, 2014) . L AB O U R I S S UE S M os t o f t h e wo r ld’s co tto n cro ps are grown in de ve lopin g cou n t rie s w he re e nvi ro n men ta l la ws a nd regulation s are mis s in g. Man y h armfu l ch e m i c al s t h at are ba n ned in pla c es suc h as A u s t ralia, t he U S an d t h e EU are s t i l l m a n u f ac t u re d by develo ped wo rld mu lt in at ion als an d s old in de ve lop i ng c oun tr i es . Th e impa ct o f c o tto n on t he commu n it ie s an d e cos ys t e ms in t he c oun tr i es w h ere the cro p is grown n e e ds t o be con s ide re d as dan ge rous ( To rt o is e & La dygrey, 2 0 1 4 ). ORGA N I C & R E CYCLE D COTTO N Org a n ic c o tt on (high a va ila bility ) : implie s 95% le s s wat e r con s u mpt ion and re st r ic t s m an y synthetic chemica ls in cu lt ivat ion . Ne ve rt h e le s s , ch e micals are use d . Fu rth er mo re, fa ir la bo ur pract ice s are a charact e ris t ic of t he org ani c c otto n pro d u ctio n. M e c h a n ic ally recycled c o tto n (mediu m availabilit y) : Th e me chan ical pro c e s s t o re c y c l e do e s no t need a ny wate r or che micals . Ne ve rt h e le s s , s t ill a lot of e ne r y is u s e d. C h emic ally recycled c o tto n (lo w availabilit y) : Th e che mical re cyclin g pro c e s s of c o tto n i s circula r in ter ms o f wat e r an d e n e rgy. Ne ve rt he le s s , ch e m i c al s a re n eeded. A l l t h ree o ptio ns a re mo re susta inable t h an con ve n t ion al cott on . Ne ve rt h e l e s s , t h e re are b etter a lter natives.
TENC E L by Le nzing TENC E L bra n ded ly o cell a nd mo dal fibe rs are produ ce d by e n viron me n t al l y re sp o n s i bl e pro cesses f ro m the s u s t ain ably s ou rce d n at u ral raw materi al w ood. Wo o d i s per f ectly renewa b le : Tre e s re grow, fe e din g on s u n ligh t , w at er a nd t h e c a r bon diox ide f ro m o ur at mos ph e re . TENC E L Ly o c ell f iber s with R E FI BRA t e ch n ology are man u fact u re d i n an e ff i c i e n t c l o s e d-lo o p pro cess, con t ribu t in g t o t h e circu lar e con omy in t h e texti l e i n du s t ry. The use o f reso u rce s an d e n e rgy is re du ce d t o a min im u m , at th e s a m e t i me we a chiev e distin gu is h e d le ve l of e n viron me n t al prot ec t i o n a nd re s o u rc e preser v atio n ( Lenzin g, 2 0 1 9 ).
15 16
FABRIC PROPERTIES DENIM (COTTON)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : R ight h an d warp face d Twill F A B R I C N A M E : Denim C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : Diagon al lin e s can be s e e n in th e fabric fron t s i de i n Z- d i re c t i o n ( f ro m r ight t o left ) . Th e oppos ite dire ction (le ft to righ t) c an b e see n o n t h e b a ck side o f t he f a br i c. C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : CO P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Qu i t e hea v y De n i m fa br ic. Dura ble a nd more robu s t fe e l. Fabric is opaqu e an d t i g h t l y wo ve n . H i g h densit y o f t hrea ds. The De n im is s tiff in warp dire ction an d s l i g h t l y st ret c h a b l e i n w eft direct io n. S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : Z-t wis te d combe d Rin g S pu n Yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Weft Ya r n Bleach e d, Warp Yarn Dye d VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
V E T E M E N T S S / S 2 0 1 8 R E A D Y-T O - W E A R
CELLULOSE BASED
17 18
FABRIC PROPERTIES CALICO (COTTON)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Pla in weave - Pie ce dye d - Un icolor F A B R I C N A M E : Ca clico C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : The fabric can be clas s ifie d as a s o- calle d “Cal i c o”, sinc e i t i s m a de o f co tt o n in a pla i n weave . Th e fabric offe rs a me diu m wei g h t . C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : CO P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Th e c ol or i s rea l l y b r i g h t, but t he f a br ic o ffe rs a matte fin is h . Eve n th ou gh , th e weav e i s q ui t e t i g h t , t h e f a br ic is slightly tran s pare n t. Fron t an d back of th e fabr i c off er t he s a m e c o n st r uct io n, w hich is clearly vis ible . Th e fabric is a little bit s tiff , h as a m o re ro u g h t ex ture a nd t ends to wrin kle . S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : Z-t wis te d fibre yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Piece dy ed VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
GIEVES & HAWKES
S / S 2 0 1 5 R E A D Y-T O - W E A R
CELLULOSE BASED
19 20
FABRIC PROPERTIES OVER PRINT (COTTON)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Pla in Weave - O ve r Prin t F A B R I C N A M E : Co tt o n Pla in Weave C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : Ea ch warp yarn pas s e s ove r an d u n de r on e weft y ar n. Th e fro n t, a s w ell a s ba ck side of th e fabric are th e s ame . C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : CO P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Lig h t an d wr i nk l y fa b r i c w it h a slightly ro u gh s u rface . Fabric is n ot comple te ly op aqu e a nd n o t t o o t i g ht ly w o v en ( y o u can s till eas ily s e e th e s tru ctu re ). Th e materi al i s sli g h t l y s t re t c hy in w a r p a nd w eft dire ction . S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : Z-t wis te d compact S pu n Yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Ov er Pr int VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
FENDI
S/S 2018 MENSWEAR
CELLULOSE BASED
21 22
FABRIC PROPERTIES UPON PRINT (COTTON)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : R ight h an d warp face d Twill - U pon Prin t F A B R I C N A M E : Co tt o n Tw ill C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : Diagon al lin e s in th e fabric in S - dire ction (f rom r i g ht t o l e ft ) o n the f ro nt, o ppo site dire ction on th e back. C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : CO P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Lig h t an d f lo wy fa b r i c w it h a smo o t h sur f a ce . S u mme ry fe e l an d ve ry s oft. Th e fa b ri c i s o p a q u e a n d t i ght ly w o v en. It is st ill s tiff in we ft dire ction S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : S-twis te d combe d Rin g S pu n Yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Piece B lea che d Upon Prin t VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
FENDI
S/S 2018 MENSWEAR
CELLULOSE BASED
23 24
LINEN THE SUS TAINABLE A LT E R N AT I V E
LINE N ITSE LF DO ES NOT NEED A S UGGEST ED ALTE R NATIVE , SINC E IT IS ALREA DY ONE OF TH E MO ST SUSTAINABLE ALT ERNAT IVES TO CO NVE NTIO NAL M AT ERIA LS LIKE COT TON.
L i ne n h a s b een used fo r tho usan ds of years for clot he s , be dware and f urnis h i n gs . I t is lo ved fo r its so ft an d cool fe e l. Lin e n is comple t e ly n atural a nd b io d egrada ble. E NV I R O N M ENTAL IMPACT Fl a x , t h e p la n t fro m whic h Linen is made , is ext re me ly ve rs at ile . Eve ry p art of t h e f l a x pla nt ha s tra ditio na lly be e n u s e d t o creat e a wort h while prod uc t – not h i n g is w asted, a nd pro duc ti on is cos t e ffe ct ive . A common by- prod uc t of f l a x is Li n seed O il, whic h is great for wood pre s e rvat ion , e s pe ciall y i n va rni s h e s . F la x is resilient a nd ca n grow in poor s oil, u s in g far le s s wat e r i n i t s c o n s u m p tio n tha n co tto n (Go od On You , 2016) . In t h e r igh t c o nditio ns, linen ca n be cu lt ivat e d wit h ou t fe rt iliz e rs an d grow n on m argin a l la nd that is unsuita b le for food crop produ ct ion . It is a v e ry p rod u c t i v e c rop, yielding a fa r great e r amou n t of fibe r t h an cott on cropp i ng . Ho w e v e r, c o n ventio na l linen is grown wit h ch e mical he rbicide s an d fe rt ilize rs , w h i c h redu c e s so me o f the environ me n t al be n e fit s of t h e t ext ile ( Tort ois e & L a d y g rey, 2 0 1 4 ). ORGA N I C LI N EN Org a n i c lin en is a n even mo re sustain able opt ion t o con ve n t ion al lin e n , s i nc e i t i s gu a ran teed that no chemica ls are u s e d wit hin g t he produ ct ion proce s s . HIG H DU R A B I L ITY It i s a v e r y s t ro ng a nd dura ble m at e rial wh ich will las t mu ch lon ge r t han ot h e r a lter n atives a s fo r exa mple cott on . L i ne n i s o n e of the stro ngest pla nt fibre s , t wo t o t h re e t ime s s t ron ge r t han c ott o n . Th i s mea ns that pro duc ts made from lin e n are ve ry du rable , s o y ou w i l l n e ed to re pla c e it less o ften, wh ich re du ce s con s u mpt ion an d is t he re fore m o re s u s t ain a ble (E co natio n, 2 0 18) . HE M P He mp is an o t her susta ina ble a ltern at ive , which is ext re me ly s imilar t o li ne n i n t e r m s o f e c o -fr iendly a nd sust ain able ch aract e ris t ics , as we ll as fa b ri c p rop ert i es .
25 26
FABRIC PROPERTIES BIRDS EYE (LINEN)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Pla in Weave - Yarn Dye d - U n icolor F A B R I C N A M E : Birdsey e linen C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : Yo u can s e e th at each warp yarn pas s e s ov er on e we ft y a r n . Th e inter la cing is o ppo s ite in all n e igh bou rin g ce lls . You can a l s o s ee t he d i a m o n d sha ped patt er n - t y pi cal for birds e ye lin e n . C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : LI P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Th e fab ri c i s q ui t e t h i c k a n d no t ela stic at a ll. Th e weave con s tru ction is really tigh t. Th e ref ore, t he fa b r i c i s q uite st iff a nd o pa q ue. S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : Z-t wis te d Fibre Yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Ya r n Dy ed VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
E D U N S / S 2 0 1 6 R U N WAY
CELLULOSE BASED
27 28
FABRIC PROPERTIES GOLD (LINEN)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en FA B R I C I N D I CAT I O N :
Pla in Weave - Yarn Dye d - Me tallic e ffe ct
F A B R I C N A M E : Birdsey elinen C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : Yo u can s e e th at each warp yarn pas s e s ov er on e we ft y a r n . Th e inter la cing is o ppo s ite in all n e igh bou rin g ce lls . You can a l s o s ee t he d i a m o n d sha ped patt er n - t y pi cal for birds e ye lin e n . C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : LI P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Lig h t an d f lo wy fa b r i c w ith a ir regula r sur f ace . Th e fabric is low in e las ticity. Eve nt h ou g h t he fa b r i c i s t i g htly w o v en, it is q u ite s e e th rou gh . Th e me tallic e ffe ct s e e n i n t h e f ab r i c i s c a u s ed by t he so ca lled m e lan ge te ch n iqu e . S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : Z-t wis te d S pu n Yarn - Fan cy yarn : Me lan ge I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Ya r n Dy ed VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
Y P R O J E C T S / S 2 0 1 8 R E A D Y-T O - W E A R
CELLULOSE BASED
29 30
LYOCELL THE SUS TAINABLE A LT E R N AT I V E
LYOCELL ITSELF DOES NOT NEED A SUGGESTED ALTE R NATIVE , SINC E IT IS ALREA DY ONE OF TH E MO ST SUSTA INA BLE ALT ERNAT IVES F OR CO NVE NTIO NAL M AT ERIA LS .
Lyo c ell is a natura l, ma nma de mat e rial made from wood ce llu los e or p ul p. Th i s i s do n e u sing a n a dva nc ed solve n t s pin n in g proce s s . E NV I R O N M ENTAL IMPACT Lyo c ell an d mo da l a re fibres m an u fact u re d from wood pu lp. The s e us e c h e mic als i n the pro ductio n bu t are fre e from h armfu l s olve n t s , an d t he p ro c es s es a re c lo sed-lo o p. There fore , t h e che micals are capt u re d an d re us e d ove r a n d o v e r a ga in (The Minimalis t Ve gan , 2016) . Lyo c ell f abr i c s a re natura lly biode gradable . Be s ide s , t h e produ ct ion of l yoc e ll pro d uc es no ha r mful byp rodu ct s . The main in gre die n t , ce llu lose , i s ea s i ly g o tt e n fro m ma na ged tree farms an d t he farmin g of t re e s t o pro d uc e l yoc e ll m ater ia ls do es no t require irrigat ion or pe s t icide s . Th e amin e oxide used while produ ct ion is re cyclable . It can be re - u s ed i n t h e m an u f ac t ur ing pro c ess a gain an d is t h e re fore n ot re leas e d in t o t he e nv i ro n men t. Wh e n c o mpa red to the ma nu fact u re of ot h e r ce llu los e fibe rs , ly oc e l l p ro d u c t i o n is significa ntly less toxic an d was t e fu l. L a s t l y, c o mpa red to the pro duct ion of ot h e r man made fibe rs it u s e s l e s s w ater a n d e n ergy (Lyo c ell Info, 2017) . E x a mple: B A MBO O LYO CE LL Ba m bo o l y c o ell is a lso a wo nd e rfu l s u s t ain able opt ion be cau s e bam b oo i s a v er y s u s t a ina ble c ro p. H o weve r, mos t bamboo fabric on t h e marke t i s b a mbo o v i s c o se, where ha r mful s olve n t s an d t h e che micals are n ot capture d a nd re u s e d. Therefo re, Visco se (bamboo or rayon ) is n ot s u s t ain able and i s b e s t av o ided (The Minima list Vegan , 2016) . E x a mple: T E NCE L LYO CE LL by Le n z in g TENC E L Ly o c ell f iber s with R E FIBRA t e ch n ology are man u fact u re d i n an e ff i c i e n t c l o s ed-lo o p pro cess, con t ribu t in g t o t h e circu lar e con omy in t h e text i l e i n du s t r y ( Lenzing, 2019) .
31 32
FABRIC PROPERTIES LIGHTWEIGHT DENIM (LYOCELL)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : R ight h an d warp face d Twill - Yarn Dye d/ Bleac h ed F A B R I C N A M E : Denim C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : Diagon al lin e s can be s e e n in th e fabric fron t s i de i n Z- d i re c t i o n ( f ro m r ight t o left ) . Th e oppos ite dire ction (le ft to righ t) c an b e see n o n t h e b a ck side o f t he f a br i c. C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : CLY P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Lig h t an d f lo wy fa b r i c w it h a smo o t h sur f a ce . S u mme ry fe e l an d ve ry s oft. Th e fa b ri c i s t i g ht l y w o v e n but no t f ully o pa q ue. It is more e las tic in warp th an in we ft direc t i on . S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : S-twis te d Fibre Yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Wa r p Ya r n Dye d/ We ft Yarn Bleach e d VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
D R I E S V A N N O T E N S / S 2 0 1 1 R E A D Y-T O - W E A R
CELLULOSE BASED
33 34
ALTERNATIVE
I MPACT
VISCOSE
Vi sco s e, a ls o kno wn a s Ra yo n, is a really popu lar fabric. It is s aid t o be t he t h i rd mo s t c o m mo nly used textile fibe r in t he world. Vi sco s e i s der ived fro m the ‘c e llu los e ’ or wood pu lp from fas t grow i ng , re g e n e rativ e t rees suc h a s euca lypt u s , be e ch an d pin e , as we ll as plan t s s uc h a s ba mbo o, s o y a nd suga r ca ne. This ce llu los e mat e rial is t h e n dis s olve d i n a c h e m ic al s o lutio n to pro duce a p u lpy vis cou s s u bs t an ce , wh ich is t he n sp un i nt o f i bres t h at c a n then be ma de in t o t hreads . The re fore , vis cos e is n e i t he r c e l l u l o s e, n o r ma n-ma de (Go o d On You , 2017) . E NV I R O N M ENTAL IMPACT Th e w o o d pulp that visco se is made from is man u fact u re d by t reat in g i t w i t h c h e mic als, which is then filt e re d an d s pu n in t o a fin e t h read. This i s a h i g h l y p o l lu ting pro cess a nd releas e s man y t oxic ch e micals in t o t h e air and w at e r w a y s s u r ro unding pro duc tion plan t s ( Good On You , 2017) . Furt h er m o re, the pro ductio n o f vi s cos e is con t ribu t in g t o t h e rapid de plet i on of t h e w o r ld’s fo rests, whic h a re be in g cleare d t o make way for pu lpw ood p l a n t atio n s . I t is estimated that arou n d 30% of rayon an d vis cos e u s e d i n f a sh i o n i s m ade fro m pulp so urce d from e n dan ge re d an d an cie n t fore s t s . Th i s leads n ot o nly to ha bitat de s t ru ct ion , creat in g a s ign ifican t t hreat t o e nd an gered s pecies, but a lso o fte n in volve s h u man righ t s abu s e s an d l and g ra b bin g f ro m Indigeno us co mm u n it ie s ( Be tt e r Me e t s Realit y, 2018) . L AB O U R I S S UE S Furt h er m o re, rega rding huma n right s , Carbon dis u lphide , on e of t he c h e m ic als u s e d, is a no ther toxic in gre die n t which has be e n lin ke d t o hig he r l e ve ls o f c o ro na r y hea rt disea se, birt h de fe ct s , s kin con dit ion s an d canc e r, not ju s t in t extile wo r ker s but a ls o in t hos e who live n ear vis cos e fact o ri e s ( G oo d O n Yo u, 2 0 1 7 ).
E COV E R OW b y Lenzing E c oVero p ro du ced by Lenzing is a n e co- re s pon s ible alt e rn at ive t o con ve n ti o n al vi sco s e . Th i s i nno v ativ e f a br ic is made u s in g s u s t ain able wood from re s pons i b l y man a ged fo rests a nd co ntro lled s ou rce s .More t h an 6 0 % of t h e t re e s u s ed t o p ro du c e d t h e f ibre co me f ro m Aus t ria an d Bavaria t o e n s u re lowe r e mis si o n s . The ma n u fa c t u r ing o f LE NZING ECOVERO fibe rs ge n e rat e s u p t o 5 0 % l o w er e m i s s i o n s a n d water impa ct a nd n early all t h e ch e micals u s e d du rin g t h e p ro du c t i o n o f E co Vero a re a lso re cove re d an d re u s e d, cau s in g 5 0 % l es s e m i s s i o n s a n d ta king up ha lf a s m u ch e n e rgy an d wat e r. B e si des , t h e who le supply cha in p roce s s is really t ran s pare n t (Le n z in g, 2 019).
35 36
FABRIC PROPERTIES PONGEE (VISCOSE)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Pla in Weave , Pie ce dye d, Un icolor F A B R I C N A M E : Po ngee C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : The prope rtie s of th is vis cos e fabric are l i ke t h e o ne s o f t h e s o ca lled “Po ngee” f abric. Th e fabric is ligh twe igh t an d flu en t an d o ff er s a l u s t ro u s, a lmo st silk-like effe ct. Be s ide s , th e con s tru ction is a plain weav e. C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : CV P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Qu i t e f ir m a n d s t a b l e. Off er s lo w ex t ens ibility an d e las ticity. Th e fabric is ext remel y l i g ht w e i g h t a nd ha s smo o t h cha racte ris tics . S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : Z-t wis te d fibre yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Piece dy ed VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
L A N V I N S / S 2 0 1 6 R E A D Y-T O - W E A R
CELLULOSE BASED
37 38
FABRIC PROPERTIES FULL PRINT (VISCOSE)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Pla in Weave - Fu ll Prin t F A B R I C N A M E : Bat iste C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : Ea c h warp yarn pas s e s ove r an d u n de r a weft yarn . O p p o s i t e s i d e s o f the f a br ic a re th e s ame . Th e fabric is comple te ly opaq u e, b u t st il l v e r y l i g h t weight, thin a nd so ft, wh ich is an in dication for a s o- calle d “Bat i s t e” f ab r i c . C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : CV P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : E xt rem el y l i g ht w e i g h t a nd t hin f a br ic w it h a s mooth s u rface . Fabric is comple te ly op aqu e, b ut s t i l l v e r y fl o w y. The w ea v e co ns tru ction is really tigh t. It is s ligh tly s tret c h y i n we ft d i re c t i o n . S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : S-twis te d combe d S pu n Yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Piece B lea che d Fu ll Prin t VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
DSQUARED 2 S/S 2018 MENSWEAR
CELLULOSE BASED
39 40
SYNTHETIC FIBRES
M A N - M A D E M AT E R I A L S & T E X T I L E S
P O LY E S T E R ACRYLIC NYLON P O LY M E R S MIXED FABRICS
41 42
ALTERNATIVE
I MPACT
POLYES TER
A b o u t 4 9 percent o f the wo r ld’s clot hin g is made of polye s t e r an d Gre e np eac e f o rec asts this perc enta ge t o n early dou ble by 2030, s in ce t h e at h l e i su re tren d ha s led a gro wing n u mbe r of con s u me rs t o be in t e re s t ed i n st re t c h ier, mo re resista nt ga r ment s ( Fas h ion U n it e d, 2019) . E NV I R O N M ENTAL IMPACT Pol y es t e r i s m a de fro m petro c hemicals , t h is s yn t h e t ic is n on - biode grad ab l e a nd u n s u s t aina ble. Po lyester fabric cove rs a ran ge of polyme r fibe r, b ut m a in ly ref e r s to po lyethylene teraph t halat e ( PET ) . Pol y es t e r requires petro leum (c ru de oil) , a n on re n e wable s ou rce t hat i s c at e go r iz ed a s fo ssil fuel a nd o th e r che micals t o produ ce , as we ll as e ne rg y t o heat a n d po wer the pro c ess t h at s e ve re ly impact s t h e e n viron me n t . I t ’s not bio d egrada ble (Tr usted Clo the s , 2016) . Furt h er m o re, Po lyester is c reat e d t hrou gh an e n e rgy- in t e n s ive h eat i ng p roc es s , requir ing la rge qua ntitie s of wat e r for coolin g. IM PACT O N PO P ULATIO N Th e abo v e m entio ned pro cess can re s u lt in grou n dwat e r le ve ls drop p i ng a nd redu c e d a ccess to c lea n drin kin g wat e r, part icu larly in vu ln e rab l e c ommu n ities where po lyester is oft e n man u fact u re d ( Good On You , 2018 ) . RE CYC LED P OLYE STE R M a n y g a r m e nts a re no t ma de from polye s t e r alon e , bu t rat he r a ble nd of p o l y e s t e r an d o ther mater ia ls. In that cas e , re cyclin g plas t ic has it s limit at i ons . M os t re c y c l ed Po lyster is o bta ine d t hrou gh me ch an ical re cyclin g. It re qu i re s no c h emic als o ther tha n the deterge n t s n e e de d t o clean t h e in pu t mat e ri al s . Th e ref o re, m e c ha nica lly rec ycled Polye s t e r might be t he be tt e r alt e rn at i v e t h a n c h e mic ally rec ycled Po lyes t e r, bu t t h rou gh t h is me ch an ical proc e s s , t h e f i bre c a n lo se its strength a n d t h u s n e e ds t o be mixe d wit h virgin fi b re ( Fa s h i o n U n ited, 2 0 1 9 ). Th e ref o re, recycled Po lyster is n ot t h e be s t alt e rn at ive t o con ve n t i onal Pol y es t e r in t er ms o f susta ina bili t y.
E CO LIT E Kusa ga A t h l etic recently la unched Th e “Gre e n e s t T- s h irt on t h e P lan e t ” m ad e f ro m t h ei r 1 0 0 % pla nt-ba sed sustain able fabric ECOLIT E, wh ich is s oft e r t h an c ott o n a n d w ith the sa me techni cal capabilit ie s of polye s t e r (Eco- Bu s in es s , 2015 ) . E CO LT IT E c o mpo sta ble a nd bio d e gradable an d be tt e r s t ill, it u s e s le s s t h an 1% o f t h e w ater needed to ma nufact u re a s t an dard cott on t e e . ECOLI TE i s made fro m re newa ble pla nt materials , grown wit h min imal in t e rve n t ion be f o re undergo i n g a ma nuf a ctur ing proce s s t h at e n s u re s t h e leas t impact t o t h e e nvi ro n m en t ( Kusa ga Athletic, 20 1 9 ).
43 44
FABRIC PROPERTIES LODEN (PES)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : No n-w o v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Lo den - Pie ce Dye F A B R I C N A M E : Lo den C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : Heavily mille d to make it de n s e an d du rab l e, m e d i um t o h ea v y w eighted f a br ic. C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : PES P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Th e f ab ri c ha s a s o ft a n d ir regula r sur f a ce. Th e color is ligh t blu e an d give s a matte f i n i s h . The fa b r i c l o o ks w a r m, so ft a nd f lexible . S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : Mo n ofilame n t I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Piece Dy ed V I S I B L E F I N I S H ( E S ) : Web-bon de d by low- me ltin g fibre s (n o po i n t s or a d he s i v e b o n ding v isible. Single s tran gle d fibre s ide n tifie d.
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
V A L E N T I N O A / W 2 0 1 9 R E A D Y-T O - W E A R
SYNTHETIC BASED
45 46
FABRIC PROPERTIES SINGLE JERSEY (PES)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Weft k nitt e d F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Pla in Je rs e y K n it - Pie ce Dye d F A B R I C N A M E : Single J er sey Kn it C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : The fabric is really s tre tch y in we ft dire ctio n . I t i s l i g ht w e i g h t a nd a bit see thro ugh. Th e s in gle kn ittin g patte rn is clearly vi s i b l e. C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : PES P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Th e fab ri c i s l i g ht , v e r y s o ft a nd st ret chy. The yarn is fe d cros s wis e to th e le n gth of th e f ab ri c . S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : Z-f o l de d fibre yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Piece Dy ed VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
L O E W E S / S 2 0 1 7 R E A D Y-T O - W E A R
SYNTHETIC BASED
47 48
FABRIC PROPERTIES SATEEN (PES)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Weft S ate e n - Pie ce Dye d - Glan cé F A B R I C N A M E : Sateen C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : The fabric offe rs typical ch aracte ris tics of a “Sat een ” f ab r i c , s u c h a s the diff erent a ppearan ce of fron t an d back s ide . Th e fab ri c i s wo ve n i n a s ateen st r uct ure a nd shows a s mooth s u rface an d s u pple drap e. C O M P O S I T I O N I N I S O / D I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : PES P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Th e f ab ri c i s rea l l y l i g h t weight a nd o ff er s a s u pple an d s oft fe e l. Th e s u rface of the f ron t sid e i s s h i n y a n d lust ro us, w herea s th e back s ide of th e fabric is matt. Du e t o t h e hi g h t h rea d d ensity, t he f a br ic is n ot tran s pare n t. S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : F lat Mu ltifilame n t Yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Piece Dy ed VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
PAU L E KA R E S O RT 2 0 1 7
SYNTHETIC BASED
49 50
ALTERNATIVE
I MPACT
ACRYLIC
E NV I R O N M ENTAL IMPACT A c ry l ic is o n e o f tho se mater ials t h at is h orrible on t he e n viron me nt t o m a ke in t e r m s o f the chemica ls t hat are pu t in t o ou r e n viron me n t . Som e a c ry lic pla s t i c s a re highly fla mmable an d mu s t be prot e ct e d from s ou rc e s of c ombu s t i o n (Tr usted Clo thes, 2 016) . Th e pro d u c t i o n o f a c r ylic is energ y- in t e n s ive an d u s e s large amou n t s of f os s i l f ue l s , re lea s i ng toxins into the atmos phe re t hat are dan ge rou s for t he heal t h of h u ma n s a nd o ur eco system. Syn th etic , p etro leum-ba sed fa b rics are s t rict ly n on - biode gradable . Thi s m ean s th at u n less incinerated, eve ry pair of n ylon t ight s or s pan dex le gg i ng s yo u o w n w i ll still be o n this pla ne t for t he n ext 1000 years . Eve r y t i me we wa sh a ga r ment made of s yn t he t ic mat e rial, t hou s an d s of p l a s t i c f i bres a re relea sed into the wat e r. The s e fibre s are s o s mall t hat t he y p a s s th ro u g h wa stewater filtrat ion s ys t e ms an d flow in t o ou r rive rs and oc ea n s ( I m age, 2 0 1 9 ). IM PACT O N PO P ULATIO N Th e ke y in gredient o f a c r ylic fibe r is acrylon it rile , ( als o calle d vin yl cyani d e ) . It i s a c a rc i no gen a nd a muta g e n , t arge t in g t h e ce n t ral n e rvou s s yst e m . A c c o rd in g t o the Center s fo r Dis eas e Con t rol an d Pre ve n t ion , acrylon i t ri l e e nt e r s o u r bo dies thro ugh skin abs orpt ion from wearin g clot hin g made out of a c r y l ic f abr ic , a s well a s inha lat ion an d in ge s t ion . A c ry l ic f abr i c ma nufa ctur ing involve s h ighly t oxic s u bs t an ce s which are ex t remely d a ngero us to the hea lt h of fact ory worke rs ( Tru s t e d C lot he s , 20 1 6 ) .
B I RL A E XC E L by Bir la Cellulo se B irl a E xc e l a re v o lutio n in f a shio n, is t h e de s ign e r ’s dream fibre t h at t ran s fo rm s f ash i o n c l a s s i c s into green cla ssic s . Th is re s ilie n t , was h an d wear fabric o ff ers w onder fu l l u stre, f luid dra pe, lusciou s h an d fe e l an d pliabilit y t o t h e fa b ri c . Diff e re n t h a n d f eels a re a chiev a ble wit h fabrics made from t h is fibre , as i t h as a un i qu e p ro p ensity to f ibr illate at t h e s u rface formin g micro fibrils , w h i c h c a n be c o n t ro lled o r a ccentuated. I t ha s s i mi l a r pro perties to petrole u m- bas e d fabrics , s u ch as A crylic. I t i s stro n g a n d o ff er s high dimensio nal s t abilit y. Fu rt h e rmore , it is s kin frien d l y, hi g h m o i s t u re a bso r bent a nd has an exce lle n t was h in g pe rforman ce (B i rl a Ce l l u l o s e, 2 0 19) .
51 52
FABRIC PROPERTIES COATED SNAKE (ACRYLIC)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Ba la nc e d plain weave with Coatin g F A B R I C N A M E : Co at ed Pla in Weave C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : Combin ation of wove n fabric with c oat i n g . The re fo re , t h e f a br ic o ff er s new prope rtie s s u ch as wate rproofn e s s . C O M P O S I T I O N I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : PA N an d Polyme r coatin g P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Th e f ab ri c ha s a g l o s s y a nd regula r sur f a ce with a prin t, wh ich can be ide n tifie d as a s n ake p r i nt . Th e fa b r ic lo o ks glitt er y a s w e ll as artificial an d offe rs wate rproof prop ert i es . S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : Z-t wis te d A irje t S pu n Yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? Yes . In dire ct coate d du e to th e pre cis e patt ern . C O L O U R A T I O N : Piece B lea che d V I S I B L E F I N I S H ( E S ) : Indirect Polyme r Coatin g by applyin g a foil coat i n g .
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
K W A I D A N E D I T I O N S S / S 2 0 1 8 R E A D Y-T O - W E A R
SYNTHETIC BASED
53 54
ALTERNATIVE
I MPACT
NYLON
E ss e n tia lly, nylo n is a type o f plas t ic de rive d from cru de oil. This pl as t i c i s t h e n pu t thro ugh a n intensive che mical proce s s , re s u lt in g in t he s t rong , st re t c h y f i bres that ma ke it so use fu l as a fabric. E NV I R O N M ENTAL IMPACT N yl o n is i n pa rt der ived fro m c o al an d pe t role u m. In addit ion t o s u pport i ng so me o f t h e w o r ld’s dirtiest indu s t rie s , t h e man u fact u re of n ylon h as s ev e ral ot h er direc t enviro nmenta l impact s . Produ c i n g n ylo n c reates nitro us oxide , a gre e n h ou s e gas t hat is 300 t i m e s m o re po t e n t tha n ca r bo n dioxid e . Th e re fore , wit h t he produ ct ion of n y l on, t h e c a r b o n f o o tpr int inc rea ses. Fu rt he rmore , man u fact u rin g n ylon is a v e ry t h i r s t y p ro c ess. La rge a mo unts o f wat e r are u s e d for coolin g t he fibre s , w hi c h c a n be a s o u rc e o f enviro nmental con t amin at ion an d pollu t ion . L a s t l y, ma n u f ac tur ing nylo n is a ve ry e n e rgy- hu n gry proce s s , wh ich con t rib ut e s t o e n v i ro n m e nta l degra datio n a nd global warmin g ( Good On You , 2018) . IM PACT O N PO P ULATIO N N yl o n f a br i c ma nufa c tur ing inv olve s highly t oxic s u bs t an ce s which are ex t remely d a ngero us to the hea lth of fact ory worke rs , as we ll as t h e popu l at i on si nc e t h e c h emic a ls c a n sink into t h e grou n d wat e r ( Tru s t e d C lot he s , 201 6 ) .
E CO NY L E CO NY L h a s dev elo ped a n eco -f rie n dly n ylon made from re cycle d plas t i c s i n a c l o s e d l o o p sy stem, dra stica lly re du cin g was t e an d e mis s ion s . N ylo n w a s t e f ro m la ndf ills a nd o cean s arou n d t h e world is t ran s forme d i n t o E CO NY L re generated ny lo n. It ’s exact ly t h e s ame as bran d n e w n ylon an d c an b e re c y c l ed, recreated a nd remo ulde d again an d again . ECONYL can h e l p t o c l os e t h e l o o p. H i g h en d fa s hio n bra nds like St e lla McCart n e y are already imple me n t i n g E c on y l i n t o t heir co llectio ns a s a s u s t ain able alt e rn at ive (Econ yl, 2 0 1 9 ).
55 56
FABRIC PROPERTIES MESH (NYLON)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wa r p Knitt e d F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Wa r p kn itte d - Pie ce bleach e d F A B R I C N A M E : Mesh k nit C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : Warp kn it fabric con s is ts of a s e rie s of wal es , o r p a ra l l e l r i d g es, r unning length wis e th rou gh th e mate rial. A z igz ag patt ern i s c reat e d . Th e fro nt o f the f a br ic con tain s an gle d ve rtical s titch e s , wh ile th e b ac k c o ns i s t s o f h o rizo nta l f lo ats C O M P O S I T I O N I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : PA P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Th e f ab ri c st ret c h e s o n l y in w a r p directio ns. It is qu ite s tiff in we ft dire ction s . Be s ides , t h e kni t h a s a n o p en t ex t ure. The mesh is ligh twe igh t an d th in an d du e to it s op en c o ns t r u c t i o n ver y seethro ugh. S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : Tex tu re d Mu ltifilame n t Yarn I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? N o. C O L O U R A T I O N : Piece Blea che d V I S I B L E F I N I S H ( E S ) : /.
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
M I L LY S / S 2 0 1 9 R E A D Y-T O - W E A R
SYNTHETIC BASED
57 58
ALTERNATIVE
I MPACT
RUBBER
Syn th etic r u b ber is pro duc ed a rtificially from polyme rs in diffe re n t vari e t i e s t o m i mic th e different pro perties of n at u ral ru bbe r. Th e o r igin s of the ela sto mer s formin g t he bas e of s yn t he t ic ru bbe r ca n b e t ra ced to th e fir st ha lf o f the 19t h ce n t u ry, wh e n att e mpt s we re mad e t o e l uc idate t h e c o mpo sitio n a nd st ru ct u re of n at u ral ru bbe r wit h t he e vent ual g o a l o f re pro duc ing the mater ial ( Brit an n ica, 2018) . E NV I R O N M ENTAL IMPACT Syn th etic r u bber ma de fro m petroch e micals . Pe t roche micals are a by pro d uc t of cr u d e o il re fining. The pro cess of ext ract in g t he oil, t ran s port in g it , re fi ni ng i t , a n d u s in g the petro c hemica ls pu t s ou t all s ort s of fu me s an d n as t y t hi ng s i nt o t h e e n v i ro nment. Th e pro du c t i o n o f synthetic r ubber is e n e rgy- in t e n s ive an d u s e s large amount s of fo s s i l f u els, relea sing toxins in t o t h e at mos ph e re t h at are dan ge rou s for t h e h ealth o f huma ns a nd o ur ecos ys t e m. Dur in g t h e v ulizatio n o f synthetic ru bbe r, s oot is produ ce d. S oot is a ca rb on p a rt i c l e th at co ntr ibutes to climat e ch an ge s in ce t he carbon foot pri nt i s i nc reas i n g ( Sciencing, 2 0 1 7 ). IM PACT O N PO P ULATIO N Syn th etic r u bber ma nufa ctur ing in volve s highly t oxic s u bs t an ce s wh ich are ex t remely d a ngero us to the hea lt h of fact ory worke rs ( Tru s t e d C lot he s , 20 1 6 ) . N AT U R A L R UBBE R N atu ra l r u bber is o bta ined fro m t re e s . The cu lt ivat ion of ru bbe r has s o c i al , e c o n o mic an d eco lo gica l c o nsequ e n ce s as child an d force d labou r as w e l l a s lo w s a la r i es. Further mo re, th e ge n e t ic dive rs it y is e n dan ge re d an d t he l o ss o f s p ec i es ba sed o n the lo ss of habit at . Nat u ral ru bbe r produ ct ion al s o c a u s es c l imate c ha nge a s well a s de fore s t at ion . If n atu ral r u bber is c ultivated in a s u s t ain able way, t he cu lt ivat ion creat e s j o bs , h a bitat s fo r a nima ls a nd plan t s an d make s it pos s ible t o abs orb and st ore CO 2 f rom the a ir (Business Biodive rs it y, 2018) .
B I OD E G R A DA BLE BIO PLASTIC U nl i ke t ra di t io na l pla stics, which are de rive d from pe t role u m, bioplas t i c s a re o bt a i n e d f ro m renewa ble resou rce s like ve ge t able fat s , corn s t arch , f o o d w a st e a n d i s co mpletely bio degradable . Bio plas t ic fe e ls s imilar t o ru b b er, b ut i s n o t w at er resista nt a nd pre tt y fragile . E a sy re c i pe: - 10 ml di s t i l l ed water - 1 ml v i n ega r - 1. 5 g c o r n s ta rch - 1. 5 g g l y c e ro le I t c a n be s e en a s the pla stic witho ut h armfu l was t e an d a n e gat ive e n viron m en t al i mp a c t ( Bi o P l astic News, 2018) .
59 60
FABRIC PROPERTIES LATEX (POLYMER)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : No nw o v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Ther mal Bon de d Non wove n F A B R I C N A M E : Sy nthet ic Rubbe r (Latex) C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : The fabric is made from s yn th e tic e las tome rs wi t h i n a t he r m a l b o n ding pro cess. A w eb is made from th e rmoplas tic fibre s an d i s t h en p o i n t - b o n d e d by using heat. C O M P O S I T I O N I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : E las tome r P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Th e s u rf ac e i s m att e . N o c onst r uct io n ca n be s e e n . Th e fabric offe rs h igh s tre n gth , flexi b i l i t y a s we l l a s e l a st icit y in w a r p a nd we ft dire ction , as we ll as wate rproofn e s s . S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : YA R N CO N ST R U CT I O N : / I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? N o. C O L O U R A T I O N : Piece Dy ed VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
MOSCHINO A/W 2018 MENSWEAR
SYNTHETIC BASED
61 62
FABRIC PROPERTIES GLEN CHECK (MIX)
C L A S S I F I C A T I O N : Wo v en F A B R I C I N D I C A T I O N : Pla in Weave - Yarn Dye d/ Bleach e d - Mu lticolo r F A B R I C N A M E : Glen C heck C L A R I F Y F A B R I C N A M E : The fabric can be ide n tifie d as a s o- calle d “ G l en C he c k ”, b e c a u se it is a co lo r w o v en fabric with ove rlaid ch e cks of diffe re n t s i z ed i n c o n t ra s t i n g co lo r s. C O M P O S I T I O N I N A B B R E V I A T I O N S : CV (wh ite ), CO (black), W O ( red) P E R S O N A L D E S C R I P T I O N O F T H E F A B R I C P R O P E R T I E S : Th e f ab ri c o ff er s t h re e diff erent co lo r s. Bo th s ide s of th e mate rial look alike . Th e f ab ri c c o ns t r u c t i o n is clea r ly v isible. Th e fabric is qu ite s tiff, opaqu e an d o ff ers a roug h e r, a l m o st w o o len f eel. S A M P L E W E F T YA R N : S A M P L E WA R P YA R N : Y A R N C O N S T R U C T I O N : Z-t wis te d fibre yarn (wh ite ), S - twis te d fibre yarn (b l a c k ) , S - t wi s ted tw o -f o ld f ibre y arn (re d) I S T H E F A B R I C C O A T E D ? No C O L O U R A T I O N : Ya r n Dy ed VISIBLE FINISH(ES): /
P O S S I B L E A P P L I CAT I O N S
S I M O N E R O C H A S / S 2 0 1 7 R E A D Y-T O - W E A R
MIXED COMPOSITION
63 64
B Y KATA H R I N A G E R K E N
