OCEANSKIN N A T U R A L T A N N I N G & D Y E I N G T E C H N I Q U E S F O R F I S H L E AT H E R
K AT H A R I N A G E R K E N
OCEANSKIN Is it time to give up leather? In today’s world, we are continually confronted with environmental issues. The production of leather hurts animals, the environment, and the workers who manufacture it. It is time to look for an eco-friendly alternative, which does not harm our planet. “Ocean Skin” gives fish skin a new purpose by turning a waste material into a beautiful leather alternative, while using environmental friendly tanning and dyeing techniques. Forget leather - the future of textiles and fashion is all about fish skin.
JUNE 2019
FINISHES BEE WAX RESIN BABYPOWDER
INDEX LEATHER IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY
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THE ECO-FRIENDLY ALTERNATIVE
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SUSTAINABLE TANNING TECHNIQUES EMULSIFIED OILS MIMOSA EUCALYPTUS URIN
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SUSTAINABLE DYEING TECHNIQUES BROWN YELLOW ORANGE RED PINK PURPLE BLUE GREEN
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FISH LEATHER PIONEERS
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I S I T T I M E TO G I V E U P L E AT H E R ? The leather handbag – once a coming-of-age gift that held almost as much significance as a wedding dress – has been swept up in fast fashion’s relentless pursuit of the microtrend. Nowadays, the leather handbag is no longer a bag for life. To luxury fashion houses, leather goods are the rocket fuel of their huge expansion over the past decade. To high street fashion brands they represent an unrivalled cash cow. To consumers they’re just another disposable fashion product. The fact that they are made from the skin of an animal is incidental. Leather can be made from cows, pigs, goats, and sheep; exotic animals such as alligators and kangaroos; and even dogs and cats. Because leather is normally not labelled, you never really know where it finds its origin. Half of the global leather industry is carried out in developing countries, where
the pressure is on to produce more and for that, animals and humans are being misused. In developing countries, no animal welfare laws are existent or not enforced. The result is, that animals get mistreated and harmed. The animals suffer from extreme crowding and deprivation, as well as castration, branding and taildocking - all without any pain killers for the animals. Furthermore, it is a common misconception that leather is simply a so-called “by-product” of the meat production. It is the most important “coproduct” of the meat industry, since animal skin represents a significant portion of the income made within the meat industry. Therefore, leather drives the demand for more animals to be raised and killed. Thousands of animals die in a crucial way for the sake of fashion every year. ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES The leather industry shares responsibility for all environmental destruction caused by the meat industry.
But also the production of leather itself hurts animals, the environment, and the workers who manufacture it. Especially the tanning and dyeing process of leather is extremely unsustainable. Environmental pollution, as well as health isses are caused by the toxins used for the tanning process of leather to preserve the animal skin and the bleaching and dyeing of the skin later. The toxic ground water near tanneries causes severe health problems for the residents in surrounding areas. Statistics show, that people who are working in the tanneries have a 20% to 50% chance becoming sick of cancer due to the dangerous toxins used in tanning solutions and dyes. It is time to look for an ecofriendly alternative, which does not harm our planet.
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T H E E C O - F R I E N D LY A LT E R N AT I V E
Forget leather - the future of textiles and fashion is all about fish skin. Fish leather finds its origin with the Icelandic people, which used the skin of fish as a material for durable shoes and accessories until the 19th century. Nowadays, it is considered an eco-luxury leather alternative due to the fact that it is sourced as a pure by-product of the food industry. Speaking specifically of fish, one tonne of fish fillets leads to some 40 kilograms of skin, which would have been discarded. Fish leather is not a completely cruelty-free product, but fish are not raised and harmed to get killed for their skin.
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Furthermore, fish leather is known for its luxuriousness, versatility and strength of the material. Fish leather is incredibly strong, yet light in weight. Although it’s quite thin, the alignment of fish skin’s fibers runs in a crisscross pattern as opposed to the parallel pattern in mammals, making fish leather much more durable than traditional leather.
FISH LEATHER
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES The tanning and dyeing processes used for fish are far less aggressive to the skin and environment than that used for traditional leathers, which require strong chemical products to strip the hairs from the hide. Since fish have no hair, this step is unnecessary. The scales may be removed, but this is never through chemical processing. Furthermore, fish skin can be tanned, as well as dyed in a natural way. The fish leather reacts well on natural tanning processes and absorbs natural based color easily. Therefore, a ecofriendly leather alternative with great properties in a beautiful and diverse color range can be created. Curious? Then continue reading to find out more about natural tanning and dyeing techniques for fish leather.
S U STA I N A B L E TA N N I N G TECHNIQUES There are countless ways of treating fish skins to transfrom them to leather. With the right treatment, the leather will look good for longer and be better able to withstand the elements. Before tanning, the fish skin has to be cleaned. The inside of the skin must be carefully scraped clean with a knife and the scales on the outside have to be removed. As soon as the fish skin is clean, the tanning process can begin.
EMULSIFIED OILS The first sustainable tanning technique is the use of emulsified oils. A mixture of egg yolk and a vegetable oil, in this case sunflower oil, is used to make the skin softer and to improve its properties in terms of withstanding the elements. The sunflower oil replaces the moisture in the skin of the fish, meanwhile the egg yolk works as the active ingredient.
Let the skin soak in the mixture for about 24 hours. The longer you will leave the skin in the mixture, the softer it will get. Leave the skin not longer than 48 hours in the oil mixture. Otherwise the skin starts to become transparent. Afterwards wash out the mixture and treat it with animal fat to keep the skin well moisturized. Hang the skin up and massage it until dry to get the softest and most flexible result.
HOW TO? Lay the skin in a suitable container with the egg and vegetable oil mixture. Make sure every part of the fish skin is covered with the tanning mixture.
TIPS & TRICKS: DYEING
The technique of using a mixture of emulsified oils works best for dyeing the fish skin. Mix natural ingredients with egg yolk and sunflower oil to create an intense dye to create beautiful colors.
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For further information on dyeing techniques, please have a look through “Sustainable Dyeing Techniques� from page 15 onwards.
MIMOSA Vegetable tanning is a traditional craft process that tanneries have handed down from generations for over 200 years. With vegetable tanned products, you can really see the skill that has gone into producing them. The Mimosa bark is used to create a cold brown color, which is rich in tan with grey undertones. HOW TO? Boil the bark for around 15 minutes. Therefore, the tannins are set free. Let the liquid cool down and strain it to remove excess bark. Make sure the liquid is completely cooled down,
because the fish skin can not be treated in hot surroundings. Lay the skin in a suitable container with the Mimosa liquid. Make sure every part of the fish skin is covered with the tanning mixture. Let the skin soak in the mixture for about three weeks. The longer you will leave the skin in the mixture, the softer and richer in color it will get. Afterwards wash out the mixture and treat it with animal fat to keep the skin well moisturized. Hang the skin up and massage it until dry to get the softest and most flexible result.
TIPS & TRICKS: DYEING The colors that vegetable tanning produces are rich and warm tones that look completely natural.
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The Mimosa bark creates a cool brown, which shows influences of grey undertones. A natural look is created, which reminds of traditional leather in terms of color as well as flexibility and softness.
EUCALYPTUS Vegetable tanning is a traditional craft process that tanneries have handed down from generations for over 200 years. With vegetable tanned products, you can really see the skill that has gone into producing them. The Eucalyptus leaves are used to create a warm brown color, which is rich in tan with red untertones. HOW TO? Boil the leaves for around 15 minutes. Therefore, the tannins are set free. Let the liquid cool down and strain it to remove excess leaves. Make sure the liquid is completely cooled down,
because the fish skin can not be treated in hot surroundings. Lay the skin in a suitable container with the Eucalyptus liquid. Make sure every part of the fish skin is covered with the tanning mixture. Let the skin soak in the mixture for about three weeks. The longer you will leave the skin in the mixture, the softer and richer in color it will get. Afterwards wash out the mixture and treat it with animal fat to keep the skin well moisturized. Hang the skin up and massage it until dry to get the softest and most flexible result.
TIPS & TRICKS: DYEING The colors that vegetable tanning produces are rich and warm tones that look completely natural.
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The Eucalyptus leaves create a warm brown, which shows influences of red undertones. A natural look is created, which reminds of traditional leather in terms of color as well as flexibility and softness.
URIN For the urin tanning technique you have to drink lots of water. The cleaner the urin, the better the results. Leave the urin in a closed container for about one to two weeks. Make sure the container is properly closed to trap the created ammonia in your solution and keep it from evaporating away. Ammonia is an amazing basic solvent that can break down fats and oils, clean surfaces and stop decay from forming. HOW TO? Create a 50/50 mixture of urin and water. Lay the skin in a suitable container with the urin liquid.
Make sure every part of the fish skin is covered. Let the skin soak in the mixture for a maximum of two weeks. Check the skin every day and give it a stir to keep bacteria from taking hold on any surfaces to get a nice, even finish. After two weeks, the urin mixture starts to dissolve the fish skin due to the created ammonia. Afterwards wash out the mixture and treat it with animal fat to keep the skin well moisturized. Hang the skin up and massage it until dry to get the softest and most flexible result.
TIPS & TRICKS: DYEING Since Ammonia breaks down fats and oils, the urin mixture is not suitable for any dyeing.
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The fish skin can still be dyed after, by mixing natural colors into the animal fat, which will be rubbed into the fish skin after tanning. The longer the animal fat will be rubbed in, the stronger will become the color in terms of intensity.
S U STA I N A B L E DYEING TECHNIQUES There is no way to deny the link between colors and our emotions. Colors have a huge influence in our everyday life, as well as in fashion. A color can change the whole appearance of a material, especially of fish leather. Natural colors can be derived from natural sources like nuts, berries, leaves, flowers, barks and a lot more. With the help of natural ingredients, diverse color palettes and dyes can be created. Read further to get inspired within the world of colors.
BROWN
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BROWN Brown is the color of the earth. It is a mixture of yellow, red and blue with countless nuances. In surveys it is one of the least appreciated colors. The older the people surveyed, the more they label brown as their least favorite color. Nevertheless, brown is a popular color choice within the fashion and interior industry. Many people buy brown clothing and brown comes back in many interiors. On the one hand, brown stands for stability, tranquility, warmth and security. It is known as the color of simplicity and reliability. On the other hand, brown is associated with old-fashioned characteristics. But brown offers a beautiful color pallette. A lot of natural materials such as wool, wood, leather and countless fibers have brown hues in their natural state. These materials can develop an incredible color. 19 20
Other natural sources, which can produce brown color schemes are for example: Eucalyptus Leaves, Different kind of barks such as Oak, Pine or Mimosa, Beard Grass, Coffee Grounds, Coneflower, Dandelion Roots, Fennel, Henna, Hollyhockflower, Ivy Twigs, Oak Acorns, Sumak Leaves, Walnut Hulls...
PREPARING
APPLYING
A warm caramel shade, which can be intensified by extending the soaking time, is created with the help of coffee.
The coffee mixture can either be mixed into the “Emulsified Oils” tanning mixture or after the tanning process into the animal fat, which is used to maintain the leather’s softness.
STEP1 Take around one tablespoon of very fine coffee grind. The finer the coffee, the easier it is to create an even finish. Mix the grind with around one tablespoon of warm water. The more coffee beans and the less water is used, the stronger will the color be. STEP2 Mix your coffee mixture into the tanning lotion or into the animal fat, which is applied onto the skin before drying. The dye can be applied in two different ways onto the fish skin.
A) SOAKING TECHNIQUE Mix the coffee mixture into the tanning lotion, which contains one egg yolk and two tablespoons of oil. Make sure the coffee mixture is well mixed with the tanning lotion for an even finish. Lay the clean fish skin evenly into the mixture and let it soak. Afterwards, wash out the fish skin and let it dry. Color Intensity 5 Minutes 3 Hours 24 Hours
: Low : Medium : High
B) MASSAGING TECHNIQUE Mix the coffee mixture into the animal fat, which will be massaged into the fish skin after the tanning process. Massage until almost dry. The more coffee mixture is used, the more intense is the dye outcome. PREP TIME: 5 MINS | APPLY TIME: 5 MINS to 24 HRS | DRY TIME: around 3 to 4 HRS
INGREDIENTS This natural color recipe is suitable to dye one piece of fish skin (10x15 cm). 1 TBSP fine coffee grind 1 TBSP warm water A) 1 egg yolk + 2 TBSP sunflower oil B) 1 TBSP animal fat
YELLOW
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YELLOW Yellow is a color that is connected to the sun, the light and gold. Yellow is extremely sensitive to nearby colors. This is how yellow next to blue appear squickly greenish. Yellow next to white looks cheerful, light-footed and sophisticated, while yellow next to black looks very hard. In other words, yellow is a changeable color. The color yellow is tis often attributed to the sun. Already children associate yellow with the sun, since yellow is color they use while drawing. Children often mention yellow as their favorite color, because the more contrast a color offers, the easier it is recognized by children. Furthermore, yellow is often used as a signal color. Insects and flowers in nature, which show yellow pigments, are easy to be seen. There are plenty of natural ingredients to create yellow. 27 28
Natural sources, which can produce yellow color schemes are for example: Crocus, Goldenrod, Marigold, Tumeric, Safflower, Saffron, Sumac Bark, Willow Leaves, Yellow Onions, Chameleon Plant, Daffodil, Dahlia, Hickory Leaves, Oxalis, Peach Tree Leaves, Tansy, Yarrow, Sunflowers...
PREPARING
APPLYING
A bright yellow shade, which can be intensified by extending the soaking time, is created with the help of tumeric.
The tumeric mixture can either be mixed into the “Emulsified Oils” tanning mixture or after the tanning process into the animal fat, which is used to maintain the leather’s softness.
STEP1 Take around one tablespoon of very fine tumeric powder. The finer the powder, the easier it is to create an even finish. Mix the tumeric with around one tablespoon of warm water. The more tumeric powder and the less water is used, the stronger will the color be. STEP2 Mix your coffee mixture into the tanning lotion or into the animal fat, which is applied onto the skin before drying. The dye can be applied in two different ways onto the fish skin.
A) SOAKING TECHNIQUE Mix the tumeric mixture into the tanning lotion, which contains one egg yolk and two tablespoons of oil. Make sure the tumeric mixture is well mixed with the tanning lotion for an even finish. Lay the clean fish skin evenly into the mixture and let it soak. Afterwards, wash out the fish skin and let it dry. Color Intensity 5 Minutes 3 Hours 24 Hours
: Low : Medium : High
B) MASSAGING TECHNIQUE Mix the tumeric mixture into the animal fat, which will be massaged into the fish skin after the tanning process. Massage until almost dry. The more tumeric mixture is used, the more intense is the dye outcome. PREP TIME: 5 MINS | APPLY TIME: 5 MINS to 24 HRS | DRY TIME: around 3 to 4 HRS
INGREDIENTS This natural color recipe is suitable to dye one piece of fish skin (10x15 cm). 1 TBSP fine tumeric powder 1 TBSP warm water A) 1 egg yolk + 2 TBSP sunflower oil B) 1 TBSP animal fat
ORANGE
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ORANGE The fruit orange has given its name to the color orange. Orange is between red and yellow and also in terms of associations, it lies somewhere in between those two colors. Orange stands for optimism, cheerfulness and playfulness. People associate it with adventure and enthusiasm, perhaps the reason that so many sports clothes are orange or have orange elements. Orange is stimulating and has a positive effect on depression and anxiety. It also stimulates the appetite. In the 1970s, a striking amount of orange was used. The color was enormously connected with the rise of plastic. A lot of designers used this color within interior design, which was hard to achieve with natural materials. Nowadays, there are several options to create an orange dye. 35 36
Natural sources, which can produce orange color schemes are for example: Bloodroot, Carrots, Eucalyptus Bark, Giant Coreopsis, Lilac Twigs, Paprika, Pomegranate, Sassafrass, Tumeric, Yellow Onion Skin ...
PREPARING
APPLYING
A bright orange shade, which can be intensified by extending the soaking time, is created with the help of carrots.
The carrot juice can either be mixed into the “Emulsified Oils” tanning mixture or after the tanning process into the animal fat, which is used to maintain the leather’s softness.
STEP1 Take five fresh carrots and shred them as small as possible. Boil 250 milliliter of water and add the shredded carrot. Let the water cook for about 20 to 30 minutes. Afterwards, strain. The longer the carrots will cook, the stronger will the color be. STEP2 Mix one tablespoon of carrot juice into the tanning lotion or into the animal fat, which is applied onto the skin before drying. The dye can be applied in two different ways onto the fish skin.
A) SOAKING TECHNIQUE Mix one tablespoon carrot juice into the tanning lotion, which contains one egg yolk and two tablespoons of oil. Make sure the carrot extract is well mixed with the tanning lotion for an even finish. Lay the clean fish skin evenly into the mixture and let it soak. Afterwards, wash out the fish skin and let it dry. Color Intensity 5 Minutes 3 Hours 24 Hours
: Low : Medium : High
B) MASSAGING TECHNIQUE Mix one tablespoon of the carrot juice into the animal fat, which will be massaged into the fish skin after the tanning process. Massage until almost dry. The more carrot mixture is used, the more intense is the dye outcome.
PREP TIME: 30 MINS | APPLY TIME: 5 MINS to 24 HRS | DRY TIME: around 3 to 4 HRS
INGREDIENTS This natural color recipe is suitable to dye one piece of fish skin (10x15 cm). 5 carrots 250 ML boiling water A) 1 egg yolk + 2 TBSP sunflower oil B) 1 TBSP animal fat
RED
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RED Red is a primary color in all meanings of the word. Linguistic research shows, that red is the oldest word for a color in almost all languages. Red is also the first color that infants can see. and if people are asked to name a random color name, the majority replies “red”. In a symbolic meaning, a lot of people think of the color red in terms of blood. Therefore, the color is associated with violence and aggression. Red generates energy and is therefore widely used in advertising. Due to excessive use, we have started associating red advertising with cheap products. All in all, Red stands out. Especially in nature, red is a color that we usually see on fruits or flowers, which you can find with a green background. Out of these red flowers and fruits, beautiful natural dyes can be created.
Natural sources, which can produce red color schemes are for example: Red Autumn Leaves, Bamboo, Beet Root, Canadian Hemlock, Chokecherries, Crabapple Bark, Elderberry, Hibiscus Flower, Portulaca, Rosehips, St. John’s Wort, Sumac Fruit, Sycamore Bark, Cherries, Strawberries, Paprika...
PREPARING
APPLYING
A bright red shade, which can be intensified by extending the soaking time, is created with the help of strawberries.
The strawberry blend can either be mixed into the “Emulsified Oils” tanning mixture or after the tanning process into the animal fat, which is used to maintain the leather’s softness.
STEP1 Take ten fresh strawberries and puree them with a blender. Make sure to clean the strawberries beforehand and to remove access leaves. Afterwards, strain. STEP2 Mix one tablespoon of straberry blend into the tanning lotion or into the animal fat, which is applied onto the skin before drying. The dye can be applied in two different ways onto the fish skin.
A) SOAKING TECHNIQUE Mix one tablespoon strawberry blend into the tanning lotion, which contains one egg yolk and two tablespoons of oil. Make sure the strawberry blend is well mixed with the tanning lotion for an even finish. Lay the clean fish skin evenly into the mixture and let it soak. Afterwards, wash out the fish skin and let it dry. Color Intensity 5 Minutes 3 Hours 24 Hours
: Low : Medium : High
B) MASSAGING TECHNIQUE Mix one tablespoon of the strawberry blend into the animal fat, which will be massaged into the fish skin after the tanning process. Massage until almost dry. The more strawberry blend is used, the more intense is the dye outcome. PREP TIME: 10 MINS | APPLY TIME: 5 MINS to 24 HRS | DRY TIME: around 3 to 4 HRS
INGREDIENTS This natural color recipe is suitable to dye one piece of fish skin (10x15 cm). 10 strawberriers A) 1 egg yolk + 2 TBSP sunflower oil B) 1 TBSP animal fat
PINK
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PINK The word rose, also known as pink, is derived from the flower ‘rose’. People associate pink with optimism, sensitivity, enthusiasm, cheerfulness and tenderness. The color has positive associations in almost all languages and cultures. That is why people speak of “looking through pink glasses”. We also associate pink in all its shades with the color of skin. It is a color that stands for touch, for the tactual, for softness. On the other hand, pink is often associated with naivety. In general, soft pink is associated wit feminine, romantic, soft and sweet attributes. Even with children today, pink is the color for girls and blue for boys. In today’s fashion industry, pink is used for both genders. All in all, a lot of natural sources are used to create pink dye for clothing and textiles. 51 52
Natural sources, which can produce pink color schemes are for example: Beet Root, Red Onion Skin, Avocado Seed, Hibiscus Flower, Raspberry, Red Cabbage, Cherries, Gran Fir Bark, Pink Camellia, Roses and Lavender, Strawberry ...
PREPARING
APPLYING
Different shades of pink, which can be intensified by extending the soaking time, can be created with the help of beetroot.
The beetroot juice can either be mixed into the “Emulsified Oils” tanning mixture or after the tanning process into the animal fat, which is used to maintain the leather’s softness.
STEP1 Take two fresh beetroots and remove the skin. Boil 250 milliliter of water and add prepared beetroot. Let the water cook for about 20 to 30 minutes. Afterwards, strain. The longer the beetroot will cook, the stronger will the color be. STEP2 Mix one tablespoon of beetroot juice into the tanning lotion or into the animal fat, which is applied onto the skin before drying. The dye can be applied in two different ways onto the fish skin.
A) SOAKING TECHNIQUE Mix one tablespoon beetroot juice into the tanning lotion, which contains one egg yolk and two tablespoons of oil. Make sure the beetroot extract is well mixed with the tanning lotion for an even finish. Lay the clean fish skin evenly into the mixture and let it soak. Afterwards, wash out the fish skin and let it dry. Color Intensity 5 Minutes 3 Hours 24 Hours
: Low : Medium : High
B) MASSAGING TECHNIQUE Mix one tablespoon of the beetroot juice into the animal fat, which will be massaged into the fish skin after the tanning process. Massage until almost dry. The more beetroot mixture is used, the more intense is the dye outcome.
PREP TIME: 30 MINS | APPLY TIME: 5 MINS to 24 HRS | DRY TIME: around 3 to 4 HRS
INGREDIENTS This natural color recipe is suitable to dye one piece of fish skin (10x15 cm). 2 beetroots 250 ML boiling water A) 1 egg yolk + 2 TBSP sunflower oil B) 1 TBSP animal fat
PURPLE
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PURPLE Purple, crimson, lilac or violet are different kinds of purple, which all belong to the same group of color. Since purple is a mixture of red and blue, it also combines the psychological associations of red and blue. Therefore, the color carries the calming characterisics of blue, but also the stimulating attributes of red. People associate purple with the advjectives such as ‘unobtainable’ and ‘mysterious’. Studies show, that only a few people like purple. Especially in fashion and in interiors, purple is often seen as a difficult color. The color purple used to be derived from sea snails and was very expensive to produce. Nowadays, it is hard to find purple, crimson, lilac or violet in nature, except in flowers and some fruits.
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Natural sources, which can produce purple color schemes are for example: Basil, Blackberry, Cherry Tree Root, Dark Purple Iris, Daylily Blossom, Elderberry, Grapes, Hibiscus Flower, Blueberry, Huckleberry, Mulberry, Red Cabbage, Red Maple Bark ...
PREPARING
APPLYING
Different shades of purple, which can be intensified by extending the soaking time, can be created with the help of blueberries.
The blueberry juice can either be mixed into the “Emulsified Oils” tanning mixture or after the tanning process into the animal fat, which is used to maintain the leather’s softness.
STEP1 Take 125 grams of fresh blueberries. Boil 250 milliliter of water and add the prepared blueberries. Let the water cook for about 20 to 30 minutes. Afterwards, strain. The longer the blueberries will cook, the stronger will the color be. STEP2 Mix one tablespoon of blueberry juice into the tanning lotion or into the animal fat, which is applied onto the skin before drying. The dye can be applied in two different ways onto the fish skin.
A) SOAKING TECHNIQUE Mix one tablespoon blueberry juice into the tanning lotion, which contains one egg yolk and two tablespoons of oil. Make sure the beetroot extract is well mixed with the tanning lotion for an even finish. Lay the clean fish skin evenly into the mixture and let it soak. Afterwards, wash out the fish skin and let it dry. Color Intensity 5 Minutes 3 Hours 24 Hours
: Low : Medium : High
B) MASSAGING TECHNIQUE Mix one tablespoon of the blueberry juice into the animal fat, which will be massaged into the fish skin after the tanning process. Massage until almost dry. The more blueberry mixture is used, the more intense is the dye outcome.
PREP TIME: 30 MINS | APPLY TIME: 5 MINS to 24 HRS | DRY TIME: around 3 to 4 HRS
INGREDIENTS This natural color recipe is suitable to dye one piece of fish skin (10x15 cm). 125 GR blueberries 250 ML boiling water A) 1 egg yolk + 2 TBSP sunflower oil B) 1 TBSP animal fat
BLUE
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BLUE Blue is known as the most popular color. Therefore, it is a color with predominantly positive associations, unless with food, where blue is rare and is therefore perceived as unnatural. Blue is associated by many people with harmony and trust, as well as sympathy and friendship. In the English language, there is the expression ‘true blue’, which stands for unconditional loyalty. Besides, a lot of people experience blue as a spatial color. that is perhaps a result of association with the blue sky or the sea. Blue is experienced as a cold color, since we associate blue with shadow, ice, snow and water.
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Nowadays, blue is often used in clothing. Hundreds of years ago, textile was stained blue with indigo, a plant that releases a light blue dye. Today, there are many more natural resources, which produce blue color palettes.
Natural sources, which can produce blue color schemes are for example: Cornflower, Dogwood Bark, Dogwood Fruit, Hyacinth Flower, Indigo, Japanese Indigo, Oregon Grape, Saffron Crocus Petal, Purple Iris, Woad ...
PREPARING
APPLYING
Different shades of blue, which can be intensified by extending the soaking time, can be created with the help of spirulina.
The spirulina mixture can either be mixed into the “Emulsified Oils” tanning mixture or after the tanning process into the animal fat, which is used to maintain the leather’s softness.
STEP1 Take around one tablespoon of very fine spirulina powder. The finer the powder, the easier it is to create an even finish. Mix the spirulina with around one tablespoon of warm water. The more spirulina powder and the less water is used, the stronger will the color be. STEP2 Mix your spirulina mixture into the tanning lotion or into the animal fat, which is applied onto the skin before drying. The dye can be applied in two different ways onto the fish skin.
A) SOAKING TECHNIQUE Mix the spirulina mixture into the tanning lotion, which contains one egg yolk and two tablespoons of oil. Make sure the spirulina mixture is well mixed with the tanning lotion for an even finish. Lay the clean fish skin evenly into the mixture and let it soak. Afterwards, wash out the fish skin and let it dry. Color Intensity 5 Minutes 3 Hours 24 Hours
: Low : Medium : High
B) MASSAGING TECHNIQUE Mix the spirulina mixture into the animal fat, which will be massaged into the fish skin after the tanning process. Massage until almost dry. The more spirulina is used, the more intense is the dye outcome. PREP TIME: 5 MINS | APPLY TIME: 5 MINS to 24 HRS | DRY TIME: around 3 to 4 HRS
INGREDIENTS This natural color recipe is suitable to dye one piece of fish skin (10x15 cm). 1 TBSP fine spirulina powder 1 TBSP warm water A) 1 egg yolk + 2 TBSP sunflower oil B) 1 TBSP animal fat
GREEN
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GREEN The word ‘green’ comes from the same Germanic word stem as the words ‘grass’ and ‘grow’. Green is known to be the color that is abundant in nature, due to the presence of chlorophyll. This substance helps plants to convert sunlight into energy. Quite a few animals have adapted to their environment over time and have thus developed a green color as camouflage. Therefore, green is the color that we associate most with nature. Furthemore, green is associated with youth and jealousy. It is the color of hope, probably because we associate green with spring, fertility and life. We also experience green with fresh and sour flavors because unripe fruit or sour fruit is often greenish. Natural green dye can be derived from a lot of fruits and plants. 75 76
Natural sources, which can produce green color schemes are for example: Artichoke, Black-eyed Susan, Chamomile Leaves, Coneflower, Foxglove, Grass, Larkspur, Lilac Bloom, Lily of the Valley, Mint, Nettle, Pigweed, Plantain Roots, Red Pine Needles, Snapdragon, Sorrel, Spinach, Tarragon ...
PREPARING
APPLYING
Different shades of green, which can be intensified by extending the soaking time, can be created with the help of spinach.
The spinach blend can either be mixed into the “Emulsified Oils” tanning mixture or after the tanning process into the animal fat, which is used to maintain the leather’s softness.
STEP1 Take one handful of fresh spinach. Boil 500 milliliter of water and add the prepared spinach. Let the water cook for about 20 to 30 minutes. Afterwards, strain and blend the cooked spinach with the help of a blender. The longer the beetroot will cook, the stronger will the color be. STEP2 Mix one tablespoon of spinach blend into the tanning lotion or into the animal fat, which is applied onto the skin before drying. The dye can be applied in two different ways onto the fish skin.
A) SOAKING TECHNIQUE Mix one tablespoon spinach blend into the tanning lotion, which contains one egg yolk and two tablespoons of oil. Make sure the spinach blend is well mixed with the tanning lotion for an even finish. Lay the clean fish skin evenly into the mixture and let it soak. Afterwards, wash out the fish skin and let it dry. Color Intensity 5 Minutes 3 Hours 24 Hours
: Low : Medium : High
B) MASSAGING TECHNIQUE Mix one tablespoon of the spinach blend into the animal fat, which will be massaged into the fish skin after the tanning process. Massage until almost dry. The more spinach blend is used, the more intense is the dye outcome.
PREP TIME: 30 MINS | APPLY TIME: 5 MINS to 24 HRS | DRY TIME: around 3 to 4 HRS
INGREDIENTS This natural color recipe is suitable to dye one piece of fish skin (10x15 cm). A handful of fresh spinach 500 ML boiling water A) 1 egg yolk + 2 TBSP sunflower oil B) 1 TBSP animal fat
BR AND S IM P LE M E N TIN G FIS H LE AT H ER
R O S E & WILLAR D
DE LLA R OVE R E
ROS E &WILLARD
DELLA ROVERE
Forget leather - the future of textiles and fashion is all about fish skin. BARBARA DELLA ROVERE Barbara della Rovere is a fashion designer of BrazilianItalian origin.
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The brand works with the finest leather craftsmen, in northern Italy, that apply centuries-old techniques to produce her bags. She is always searching for new materials and mixing them to create an innovative style. One of the brand’s most notable features is the use of fish skins sourced from a women’s cooperative in the South of Brazil. Barbara chooses to work with this material because of its structure, beauty, texture and above all, sustainability. Reclaiming an ethical relationship between designer and supplier. The philosophy of sourcing sustainable material comes with the hope that our Brand will empower women, by providing alternative economic opportunities to earn a regular income and improve their circumstances.
FISH LEATHER PIONEERS ROSE & WILLARD The London based womenswear brand Rose & Willard is quality made in Britain - affordable luxury for the aspiring, individual career woman. The brand champions flattering designs, beautiful fabrics and exceptional craftsmanship. The ethos is all about ‘ethical luxury, created to flatter’. Most of the garments are manufactured in London, dedicated for the perfect cut. Innovative, empowering, responsible - our spirit is in our name. In previous collections, Rose & Willard made use of fish leather as panels within the designs.
OCEANSKIN
