Fashion Vanguard Exposition by Katie Calvert

Katie Calvert

Concept

Inspiration & Primary Research

Fashion Vanguard: print supplement and online - guardian.com/fashionvanguard An extension of The Guardian Gap in the market: A voice that openly discusses important issues regarding fashion, women and politics, balanced with the fun element of fashion Theme(s): fashion, women, politics Target consumer: Female, ABC1, educated, progressive, stylish, embraces change and technology, politically astute, aged 15 to 65+ I have a passion for fashion writing, women’s rights and politics

“You don’t need to be a woman to be a feminist”

Primary research - Q&A including questions such as ‘what do you think feminism means?’ and, ‘how does the media represent the hijab?’

“The hijab in my opinion is portrayed in a bad light by the media and at worst is viewed as a threat”

Savage Beauty at the V&A, visited 03.04.15

Leonora Carrington exhibition at Tate Liverpool, visited 18.03.15

Talk and book signing with Jennifer Klinec, author of The Temporary Bride, at Huddersfield Public Library, 18.04.15

Women Fashion Power at Design Museum, visited 03.04.15

Extra research included printed & online articles; books; political party manifestos; ‘The September Issue’ documentary; fashionable hijab wearing Muslim women on social media; ‘India’s Daughter’ documentary Critical and visual journals: they helped with the development of my project from initial research to finished product through critical analysis of research and of my own work

Fashion Shoots

Framing Fashion

Agenda

Photographer: Catherine Booty Organiser of entire shoot/ Stylist/Art Director: Katie Calvert Model: Zyra Shah MUA: Rosie Jones Location: Palm House, Sefton Park, Liverpool

Photographer: Jack Bowker Organisers of entire shoot/ Stylists/Art Directors: Katie Calvert & Olivia Holden Models: Isobel Kiely & Matty Gallant MUA: Rosie Jones Location: Moors

Completed Concept: printed supplement with advertisements, online content, newsletter & flat plan n ear y 2008 ear u ha appear ng oo em n ne m gh harm her pres den a amb ons H ary C n on snubbed Amer can Vogue

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Begin your oddessey

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EDITORIAL CONTENT

FEATURES

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e warmly welcome you all to this first issue of Fashion Vanguard, a bi-annual supplement celebrating and exploring women and fashion, mixing the creative with the political. Learn about the she-soldier of World War One, or indulge in our Framing Fashion shoot. Discover the truth surrounding the mythological Amazonian women or amuse yourself with Nathalie Croquet’s personal take on fashion advertisements. Fashion Vanguard is a culturally creative mix for the progressive and passionate woman of today. Find more online at guardian.com/ fashionvanguard

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Although many countries support and celebrate IWD, it is treated with varying degrees of importance and seriousness by different governments and organisations. There are long lists of countries for which IWD is an official holiday, in some cases only for women, or observed as an unofficial one. Ironically, these countries are largely in Eastern Europe, Asia and South America, not in countries immediately recognised as having progressive human rights. Whilst some countries, such as Portugal, will celebrate March 8th with ‘women only’ parties or nights out, others are much more serious. In Pakistan working women highlight their struggle for rights whilst facing many cultural and religious restrictions, and in Poland large feminist demonstrations are held in major cities. On occasion, IWD has sparked conflict. It sparked violence in Tehran, Iran, in 2007 when police attacked and beat hundreds of women and men who were planning a rally for IWD. They arrested dozens of women subjecting them to interrogation and solitary confinement. Several were only released after a 15-day hunger strike. And in Egypt, in 2011, women had marched into Cairo’s central Tahrir Square, some in traditional dress, some in jeans, to celebrate IWD and stand up for women’s rights, when hundreds of men turned up to harass and chase them out whilst police and military stood by and watched. March 8th 2017 will be the one hundredth anniversary

The Surreal Life and Art of Leonora Carrington 61 The Lancashire born artist who became Mexico’s national treasure

Editor-in-Chief: Katie Calvert Graphic Designer: Paul Calvert

Decoration or Violation? 64

Special thanks Paul Calvert, Pauline Calvert, Cav Calvert, Vicky Sedgwick, Haleema Shahbaz, Olivia Holden, Lauren Tyson

A look at Alexander McQueen’s relationship with women

Spoof 68 Nathalie Croquet pokes fun at the seriousness behind fashion advertising

What is Beauty? 70 Fashion Vanguards Open Discussion discovers what people really think about beauty

It is an industry that embraces everyone

Passage to India 72 Katie Calvert and Vicky Sedgwick take you on a journey across India

Feminesto 80 A close look at the political parties policies for women 1

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Women will continue to fight for their rights, which will make the world a better place. Progress may be slow, but IWD focuses a worldwide audience on women, on the facts, which are that even in the most progressive, developed areas in the world, women are under-represented in politics and business, and that equal pay is still to be achieved. Women still shoulder responsibility for over 80 per cent of domestic chores and are often the victims of violence. IWD has to continue to maintain support, aid, information and be a forum for women’s rights and concerns across the world. It may not solve all of these problems but it remains a valuable work in progress.

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Compassionate Fashion iven that there are so many of us, and clothes are one of the three basic needs, the conditions surrounding the textile and fashion industry are nothing short of staggering. Women make up 85 to 90% of sweatshop workers in developing countries. Often these women have had a limited education, working in conditions that are in dire need of improvement. For them the job is important in order to feed families, to us it’s a multi-billion pound business and an obsession with fast fashion that shows no signs of slowing down. The textile and clothing industry is the second largest employer in the developing world, after agriculture, yet it is estimated that worker’s wages account for as little as 0.5%, rising to just 4%. A recent study stated that consumers would be willing to pay 15% more for a product that they knew had not come from a sweatshop, yet doubling the wages of a sweatshop worker would only cost an extra 1.8%. Furthermore, research shows that empowering and investing in women has a cumulative bonus – women are likely to spend their income on families, on education,

female body. So whilst the hijab is deemed to be oppressive, the displaying of female flesh in every media outlet is acceptable instead of an aspect of a misogynistic society.

different in each Islamic country. Tokio covers all of her body appropriately, but no matter how she manages to bridge the gap between east and west, the notion of fashion within religion will always draw conflict and criticism. Tokio is a beautiful, stylish woman, which appeals to the fashion industry. Like many other Muslim women in the west, she is influential to young Muslims, but she is also influential within the fashion industry, attempting to change perceptions of Muslim dress in the media. Showing an abundance of flesh is normal in our current western society and the media. For members of other religions, older women, women over a size 10 or those not keen to show flesh, Tokio’s advice works for them too. It is refreshing to see people discussing and reflecting on covering the body as opposed to displaying it. For those that deem it oppressive, wearing beautiful clothing that covers the body is in fact quite liberating. The headscarves frame faces in a manner not recognised in western society. If you forget for a minute that these women are Muslims, bloggers like Tokio could easily be style setters and influencers for western, nonMuslim women. Indeed, they are style setters for people of all backgrounds! Social media has been a huge factor in bringing together the global experiences of women around the world. If the industry for beautiful modest clothing derives from Muslim women, that’s good. It bridges the gap between religion and western society. It presents the hijab in a positive light and promotes Muslim women as funny and outgoing, whilst also promoting Islam in a positive light. This can only mean progress and harmony.

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evidence that they’d taken part in traditionally male activities, such as curved leg bones, attesting to a life spent on horseback, and battle injuries such as the evidence of arrowheads in their bodies. The average height of the bodies was 5’ 6”, exceptionally tall for the time and in line with the Amazonian legend.

Western society is known for allowing the freedom of expression; this includes the freedom to dress as one pleases. With this in mind, it makes little sense that women

The main ingredient of Persian rice is time. Give your rice at least 1 hour to steam on the lowest flame possible. And try and spend a little money on the rice you use. Your packets of Uncle Ben’s can wait for another time. Serves 4 Note: You must have a pot with a matching lid to make this recipe. If you use a non-stick pot it will be a little easier to unmold your tahdig in one nice large piece. Ingredients: 2 coffee mugs full of basmati rice 1 tsp salt 6 tbsp of salted butter salt and pepper to taste

Fill your pot that has a matching lid with water and bring it to a boil. Add the salt and the rice and return the water to a boil. Reduce to a rolling simmer and cook the rice for approximately 6 minutes or until it is ‘al dente’ or tender with a slightly firm centre. Drain the rice and set aside. Rinse the pot and dry it thoroughly, then return it to the stove with half the butter on low-medium heat. Melt the butter, then swirl it around ensuring that it coats the bottom, allowing some to creep up slightly along the sides too.

Wearing a scarf on your head and dressing modestly does not prevent you from being an awesome person too, with intellect and humour

The belief in oppression and threat to women’s rights is another oblique view

Tip the cooked rice into the pot and smooth out evenly. Using the handle of a spoon, make 4 or 5 holes through the rice to the base of the pot. As soon as steam begins to appear, reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting. Add the remaining butter in 2 or 3 pats on top of the rice.

According to the Greeks, Queen Penthesilea, who liberated and, later, lost and fell at Troy, is quoted as saying, “Not in strength are we inferior to men; the same our eyes,

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Remove the lid, shake the rice gently and listen carefully. You should hear a light scratching sound of the dark, golden and crunchy crust that will have formed on the bottom of your pot. If this hasn’t happened, recover the rice and leave for a further 30 minutes.

Invert the pot onto a serving plate to remove the rice with the crust intact. If the crust sticks, scrape at the edges to help release it and tip the crust onto the rice. (If it really sticks, either you didn’t use enough butter or your heat was too high)

Whilst their conversation could be improved by being more mature, many lack the lingo that younger voters speak. In an interview with Time Out magazine, Ed Miliband confessed that he didn’t understand the term YOLO (you only live once). When it was explained to him his response was both endearing and totally unexpected for a slang term popularised by the rapper Drake in his 2011 song The Motto, “that is a good philosophy for politics! It’s about a sense of adventure and doing what you want. Wow! I’ll use it from now on!” Young voters know that politicians are often male, white, over 40 and from renowned educational institutions but until that changes, a willingness to engage with the language of the young would undoubtedly encourage more young people to vote. So too would an effective use of social media. Interestingly, one commentator on Open Discussion explained, “one of my favourite you tubers put out a video about why we

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Printed top, £58, trousers, £98, both anthropologie.com. Jacket, £59.99, zara. com.

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Striped dress, £42, printed kimono, £78, both urbanoutfitters.com.

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Kimono (worn back to front), £35, riverisland.com. Top (worn underneath kimono), £48, anthropologie.com. Jeans, as before.

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Green shirtdress, £40, topshop.com. Burnt orange jacket, £29.99, hm.com. Printed trousers, £29.99, zara.com.

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The Tale of the She-Soldier

With little written about women’s roles in combat as a collective, it is easier to look at individual women who shone. These stories take place in Britain, France, Russia and Serbia. In fact the best-known British she-soldier eventually became a captain in the Serbian army. Flora Sandes had enlisted as a St John Ambulance volunteer. Stationed in Serbia she became

We must recognise that at the time the prospect of women in combat was abhorrent

#XXVOTE is a campaign to get young people, particularly female voters aged 18-25 years old, registered to vote. Set up by the Youth Media Agency, they work with young creative’s to produce ethical campaigns aimed at young people. For #XXVOTE they created a video available on YouTube. Their findings concluded that young women are often confused and overwhelmed by politics, or are simply uninterested because of a lack of political understanding. This campaign reaches its audience primarily through social media. They understand that this is a significant way of reaching this demographic, something that MPs need to recognise too.

On December 16th 2012, Jyoti Singh Pandey went to the cinema to see Life of Pi with a male friend, afterwards boarding an unofficial bus home, where she was brutally gang raped, inflicting such injuries to her that her recovery was impossible. Rape alone makes many seethe with anger and heartbreak but hearing some of the even more gruesome facts, such as the internal mutilation, was even harder to take.

We cannot hear from the victim

The Internet can also give rise to amusing memes. Politics can become repetitive and boring, but the Internet has given us ‘Cassetteboy’ an English electronic music and comedy duo, who mash up videos of celebrities, including politicians.

I felt impelled to switch it off when Mukesh Singh, one of the rapists, is interviewed giving no explanation of why they would do that, choosing only to victim blame – ‘she shouldn’t be out at night,’ ‘she shouldn’t resist,’ ‘she shouldn’t be left alive to stand witness against them’. And further to do so when their defence team, who make you despair because

they should know better, are adamant that it is always the fault of the girl. The first defence lawyer, ML Sharma says on film, “If you put your diamond on the street, then certainly the dog will take it out… if you put a flower in the gutter, it will be spoiled.” The other lawyer seethed with fury when expressing his extreme views. If his daughter ‘allowed’ herself to be raped, he would personally set her alight and destroy her! Such views are even more frightening since these are the considered views of educated men. But this film isn’t about these men; it is about Jyoti and the attitudes that make rape, and the assault on the worth and character of women in India, an all too common feature. We cannot hear from the victim who had worked hard and was only months away from achieving her ambition to become a doctor. In common with much of the world, the literacy rate for Indian women is much lower than that of men, far fewer girls are enrolled in school with many of them dropping out of the curriculum altogether. Jyoti was the unfortunate exception to this rule. She had achieved so much and was so close to realising her dream. Instead of her short life being viewed as ‘normal’, it is more poignant because she is the unfortunate exception. If more Indian girls were allowed to realise her level of education then it might be possible to predict a decrease in patriarchal dominance resulting in fewer attacks and rapes. Sadly, this still appears to be a long way off.

s the intense debate over who should lead our next Parliament heats up, and with females making up less than 25% of all members of Parliament, we take a look at the formidable Lady Nancy Astor; woman, politician, advocate of women’s rights, quick witted and full of charm.

“Men and women, as equal humans on this earth, need to work together to create a fairer society” Often considered to be the first female elected into Parliament, in fact, this accolade belongs to Countess de Markievicz, a member of Sinn Fein. Since she resided in prison, and thus never took up her seat, Astor has the honour of being the first female to enter Parliament. On the 24th February 1920, Lady Astor, made her entrance in the House of Commons. In her speech she addressed the difficulty of many to receive a female MP, and wisely pointed out that now a proportion of women had the vote, they meant to use it.

But this film isn’t about these men

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Is the fashion industry’s use of older models just another passing trend?

Well known for her wit and charm, Astor used this to win over constituents and misogynistic MP’s, who bear more than a passing resemblance to a number who reside in power today. She used her voice to campaign for women’s rights, with a view to equality. Today’s feminism, and that of the past, is tainted with the belief, by some, that feminism is a form of man hating. Astor illustrated that to break down the barriers put up by men to encase women, one had to explain and quite literally show that women were as equal to govern as men, not because of gender but because of ability, wittily noting, “we are not asking for superiority for we have always had that; all we ask for is equality.” Rather than concede some of her femininity and aim to ‘fit in’ with this overly male dominated environment, which would have gone against her principle that gender should not be an issue, she chose to show women as they are; strong, intelligent, and able to do traditional men’s jobs. That said she did generally wear sombre clothing in order not to stand out anymore than her male colleagues did. This was one way to banish the notion of differentiation between the sexes. But her aim was that traditional male jobs were a domain for both sexes, and that what sex you are should be of little importance, since men and women, as equal humans on this earth, need to work together to create a fairer society. “I can imagine nothing worse than a man-governed world – except a woman-governed world.” She achieved this by wittily putting men and women down, whilst also promoting the female’s ability. Although her gender plays a huge part in making her a memorable politician of the 20th century, it was her personality that has left the lasting legacy of how to charm (and outwit) a generation of men opposed to female reform. So who is today’s Nancy Astor? Should this even be a question, when politicians should be judged on merit rather than gender? And when will this abysmally small percentage of female politicians be in line with the total British female population?

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Charlotte Rampling modelling for NARS 48

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The Surreal Life and Art of Leonora Carrington

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he impressive and eclectic artist, Leonora Carrington OBE (1917-2001), left Lancashire at the age of 18 to become one of Mexico’s national treasures. But, as the new exhibition of her work at Tate Liverpool, ‘Surreal Landscapes’, until 31st May, illustrates, she never entirely left her roots behind. Born in Chorley, Lancashire in 1917 to a wealthy textile manufacturer and his wife, this exhibition seeks to establish the Lancastrian influences on her work before exploring further. Memories of her oppressive childhood, the dark, gothic interiors of her home, the local legends of witchcraft and the Celtic folklore and mythologies related to her by her Irish-born mother and nanny, would all populate her work. The female imagery, in particular, is very strong. This oppressive, conventional, wealthy upbringing also produced a rebel who, at the age of 20, ran away to France with the Surrealist, Max Ernst. After Ernst’s incarceration by the Nazi’s in 1940, Carrington fled to Spain, where paralysing anxiety and growing delusions caused a mental breakdown and she spent time in a brutal mental asylum in Santander. She foiled an attempt by her family to rescue her by submarine, seeking refuge in the Mexican Embassy in Lisbon and, finally, crossing the Atlantic to Mexico. At this time, Mexico City was creative and experimental and Carrington settled there with her second husband Cziki Weisz.

of Germany since 2005, President of the European Council in 2008, second woman after Margaret Thatcher to chair the G8 summit, and highest ranked female to feature in Forbes’ most powerful people list, does just that. She has adapted the male suit and is often seen wearing a three-button blazer and trousers in an array of unexpected colours. A mention of Margaret Thatcher here couldn’t go amiss. She wore a classic suit and blouse, revelling in being the top female in control of male MPs.

A magazine, with the right credentials, which also has a section on fashion – that’s ok! But a glossy fashion magazine, even a well-respected one, is a definite no! Some women in positions of power dispel this, but, more often than not, they are the companions of male politicians. For instance, Michelle Obama, the current First Lady of The White House, advocate for military families and working mothers, promoter of poverty awareness, nutrition and arts education, also uses fashion to her advantage, when speaking about political policies and as a means to promote American designers. She has appeared on the cover of American Vogue twice and on best-dressed lists regularly. Often her appearance is feminine in style, wearing

She foiled an attempt to rescue her by submarine

printed housewife dresses whilst discussing education and demonstrating that femininity and power are not mutually exclusive. But this is rare. In early 2008, fearful that appearing too feminine might harm her presidential ambitions, Hillary Clinton snubbed American Vogue. Editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour, fired back in the February issue, “The notion that a contemporary woman must look mannish in order to be taken seriously as a seeker of power is frankly dismaying. This is America, not Saudi Arabia. It’s also 2008: Margaret Thatcher may have looked terrific in a blue power suit, but that was 20 years ago.” Within British politics the same is true. It is unlikely that a female politician will be interviewed in depth by magazines whose main content is fashion. A magazine, with the right credentials, which also has a section on fashion – that’s ok! But a glossy fashion magazine, even a well-respected one, is a definite no!

It was here that the co-curator of the exhibition, author Chloe Aridjis, met Carrington. From the age of 12, she visited Carrington at her home, every Sunday. Aridjis traced many of her little known works and collected them for the exhibition. This exhibition, the first time since 1991 that Carrington’s work has been on display in England, showcases a wide range of artistic disciplines; from drawing to painting, tapestry to sculpture, all the way to short story, and set and costume design. It is augmented by Carrington’s words, in order to construct a narrative faithful to her spirit. The Magical World of the Mayas (1964, casein on panel) greets you as you enter. This is the first time that it has

Decoration or Violation? ne would imagine that even those outside of the fashion world have heard of McQueen’s most infamous show, Highland Rape (autumn/winter 1995), now 20 years old. Models walked down the runway with rips in their dresses, baring breasts, with tampon strings poking out from skirts. The media perceived it too literally, imagining only one possibility – the rape of women. But McQueen was too clever for that. It was, in fact, highlighting the hundreds of years of destruction that McQueen felt the English had impeached on Scotland. It was great publicity for him, but it has meant years of comments by commentators who consider his work to be misogynistic.

been on display outside Mexico and is an example of the high esteem in which she is held there. Considered by Mexico to be a Mexican artist, she was commissioned to paint this mural for Mexico’s National Museum of Anthropology. It is beautiful and colourful, reflecting the co-existence of Catholic and indigenous traditions and the importance of the natural world, combining mythology with history. She was influenced by her strong interest in the ‘Mexican Day of the Dead’ tradition and she said ‘I think that to reach an understanding of death first we must understand the distinct places that exist within us, and dreams are one of these places.’

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O The Giantess (the Guardians of the Egg) 1947 Tempera on wood

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As of this month, running until August, the V&A is holding a retrospective of Britain’s most revered designer and L’Enfant terrible of fashion, Alexander McQueen. With this in mind we take a look at how ‘Savage Beauty’ demonstrates the love and passion for women he felt, and not the destruction of their body and soul that the media so often accused him of. Voss spring/summer 2001 artfully demonstrates the relationship McQueen had with women, beauty and fashion. The exhibition skilfully attempts to recreate the original ‘performance’. The audience stands there, uncomfortably

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India always conjures up bright, rich, vibrant colours and we experienced them here

What is Beauty? ashion Vanguard’s online open discussion aims to promote honest and progressive dialogue amongst our many readers. Sometimes it leads to the development of an article. What is Beauty? “I don’t know this is such a hard thing to describe”, whilst many took a stab at it, this response caught our eye for its honesty. Most people would push for an answer but this individual, in one quick statement, summarised what a varied and difficult question this is and how hard it is to define. Is it physical beauty? If so, this could be beauty as defined by the media and the wider western world. But, then, different cultures would unequivocally answer the question differently. It could also be interpreted as your own personal thoughts. No matter how much interference from the media, we, as individuals, are still able to think for ourselves and so our definition of beauty can still be in stark contrast to what the modern world dictates. If one does take it literally, that beauty is a product of human nature, both outwardly and inwardly; it was refreshing to read the positive answers discussing internal beauty.

in someone regardless of the wrinkles, blemishes and imperfections”

Akbar, serving as his capital for 15 years, and is one of the best preserved examples of Indian Mughal architecture in India. So much beauty and architecture and the best is yet to come tomorrow.

People work on their outwardly appearance and for good reason. First impressions are important, and, as we struggle for time, taking in ever more busy lives, we do not give ourselves the time to find out about someone and discover that what they wear or how they style their hair is irrelevant if they are funny, compassionate or an excellent teamworker. Outward human beauty was equally tinged with negativity, consciously or subconsciously.

We arose before sunrise to visit the place in India that I had been most looking forward to – the awe-inspiring Taj Mahal. Breathtakingly beautiful in pictures, it is even more astonishing, amazing and romantic in reality, and worth all the queuing we had to do. We did the inevitable Diana pose, of course! The nearby Agra Fort was a surprise and a revelation, affording us fantastic views and photo opportunities.

“Beauty is something to be appreciated but sometimes envied”

“Beauty to me is something that is always found within. It is what shines through in someone’s personality that makes him or her a beautiful person! A moral human being will always be beautiful”

Envy is a natural human response, a defence mechanism, and so it can explain the need for some to take drastic measures to alter their appearance. It, too, is quite often the cause of bullying. It is unfortunate that since women are measured by their looks, rather than trying to change this, we all too often collude with these views, insulting our gender for their outward appearance rather than defending and celebrating their individuality. Quite honestly, a woman’s barbed sting directed at one’s weight is far harsher to take than a male troll threatening violence.

“Beauty to me is making the most of our natural qualities, having a glowing persona and genuine carefree happiness

Quite a number of responses stated that even though the question was open to interpretation, their brain led them

to go on an afternoon tiger safari! There is no guarantee that you will see any tigers, but we were fortunate to see 2 resting in the bushes after a feed! It is hard to describe what it feels like to see a wild animal in its natural habitat, to be so close you can smell them. It felt like I was stepping into their territory but they seemed oblivious to our excitement.

of rich heritage, stunning architecture, and beautiful scenery. Fashion Vanguard’s editor, Katie, alongside photographer Vicky, kept a diary of their trip to show you why India is still a destination for all travellers, including women.

A day of relaxation was greatly needed so we took advantage of the hotel’s modern spa and pool, explored the lush 12-acre gardens and dined outdoors, leaving us both refreshed for more adventure.

Photography by Vicky Sedgwick

This trip is so far the most exhilarating I have ever experienced but we are not super human and the previous day was a welcome break. On our sixth day, however, we were back on the road towards Agra, stopping to visit Fatehpur Sikri, which was built by the Mughal emperor

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Having taken the coach back to Delhi for an overnight stop, we headed to the train station for a visit to Amritsar. We complain endlessly about our trains but I’m not sure that I ever will again. In the whole of the 5 hour train journey, I didn’t once venture to use the hole in the floor that was the toilet! Our next day began soberly at the Jallianwala Bagh, a public memorial garden to the people massacred in April 1919 by British troops. After the richness and beauty of the past week and a feeling of pride in the British rule of India this experience left me embarrassed and angry at the arrogance of the British, especially since the Indian people have been nothing but kind and respectful throughout this whole visit. Our afternoon at the border crossing with Pakistan gave me more pause for thought about India’s history. We witnessed the closing gate ceremony where many were singing and chanting national songs, and taunting one another. A soldier marched around theatrically, taking down the flags and closing the gate.

Domestic/Sexual Violence On average two women are killed every week due to domestic violence, a figure which is routinely repeated but does not change. One in 20 women under the age of 60 have been raped or sexually assaulted during their lifetime. Only one prosecution for carrying out FGM has taken place in Britain despite it being illegal in this country since 1985. Such facts and figures like this are abysmal and much needs to change, but is any party willing to address the needs of 51 per cent of the electoral? Lets look at them all more closely: Conservatives: The Conservatives intend to place a greater focus on preventative work in schools, provide better training for police and frontline professionals and open new rape crisis centres. They will work with local authorities, the NHS and Police and Crime Commissioners to ensure a secure future for refuges, rape crisis centres, specialist FGM and forced marriage units.

Liberal Democrats: To achieve their goals for FGM, they will ensure that teachers, social workers, police officers and health workers in areas where there is a high prevalence of female genital mutilation or forced marriage are trained to help those at risk. A national helpline will be created for victims of domestic and sexual violence, regardless of gender, to provide support, encourage reporting and secure convictions. They will protect funding for tackling violence against women and girls and maintain the post of International Champion for preventing this violence. The teaching of sexual consent in schools as part of age-appropriate sex and relationships education will be required.

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Green Party: Anyone coming into contact with someone who has suffered domestic abuse will have the correct training, and up to £100 million of funding for domestic violence and rape crisis centres will be made available.

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UKIP: They have so far failed to address domestic and sexual violence. But they have made proposals on FGM. They have stated that they will provide mandatory training for all midwives on FGM, introduce a mandatory reporting requirement for known FGM cases for front-line professionals such as teachers, GPs, nurses and police, and include awareness of FGM to the schools’ PHSE curriculum and make FGM awareness a mandatory part of safeguarding training for teachers, school staff and governors.

Gender Pay Gap The gender pay gap is at its lowest since records began, but women still earn almost 10 per cent less than men. And rather than women’s pay increasing, it is in fact men’s wages that are falling. Much is still to be done.

SNP: They have announced a new consultation on proposals to help victims of domestic abuse and sexual offences, to question whether current criminal laws are effective.

Conservatives: Whilst they have been in government, they state that the gender pay gap is the lowest on record, but they want to reduce it further. In order to do this, companies with more than 250 employees will have to publish the difference between average pay for their female and male employees.

Labour: They will publish a ‘Violence against Women and Girls Bill’, which will appoint a commissioner to set minimum standards for tackling domestic and sexual violence and provide more stable central funding for women’s refuges and Rape Crisis Centres. Legal aid for domestic violence victims will be more widely available. The gun-licensing regime will be tightened, preventing people with a history of domestic or sexual violence from being given an unrestricted licence. Protection orders will be placed on those girls threatened with FGM.

Labour: Since 60 per cent of low paid workers are women, Labour’s minimum wage of more than £8 by October 2019 will be of advantage to women. In common with the Conservatives they will require companies with more than 250 employees to tackle their hourly gender pay gap. Their most ambitious policy is that a target of 50 per cent of ministerial appointments to public boards must be women.

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An asylum policy that recognises the potential risks to women seeking asylum, including forced marriage, female genital mutilation, domestic violence, rape and other sexual assault, will be implemented.

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Liberal Democrats: Their aim is to increase the number of women on public boards to at least 30 per cent, which is a more depressingly realistic aim than that of Labour’s. They will work towards achieving gender equality in government programmes that support entrepreneurs. Like the Conservatives and Labour, 250 is the magic number. The Liberal Democrats also have the same policy that companies employing more than 250 members of staff will be required to publish the average pay of their male and female workers. Green Party: They will implement a law that requires 40 per cent of all public company and public sector boards to be women, and change the law further to enable unequal pay cases to be brought to court more easily. UKIP: In common with violence against women, UKIP don’t appear to be interested in achieving pay equality for women. SNP:They are pushing for 50:50 representation in public and private boards, and want to ensure that

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£89

Credits Print Supplement Editor/Writer: Katie Calvert Graphic Designer: Paul Calvert Adverts: Paul Calvert Online Content and Newsletter Editor/Writer/ Graphics: Katie Calvert

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“No one sex can govern alone. I believe that one of the reasons why civilization has failed so lamentably is that is has had a onesided government”

“In passing, also, I would like to say that the first time Adam had a chance, he laid the blame on a woman”

In early 2008, fearful that appearing too feminine might harm her presidential ambitions, Hillary Clinton snubbed American Vogue

commen s 28

Flora Sandes

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First female MP to take her seat in the House of Commons

India’s daughter illustrates a culture where blame is laid at the door of the victim, existing not only in India but worldwide, including Britain id you watch India’s daughter? A well made, thought provoking film, which didn’t shy away from the sickening human tragedy that uncovers the extent of India’s disregard for the rights of its female population and indeed the sanctity of life itself. The views of all are heard for us to consider often in incredulity and anger, with tears in our eyes (and eventually with loud sobs).

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Nancy Astor

It’s a dress not a yes!

should vote. It reminded me that I still needed to register online, so I went ahead and did it. She made it even easier for everyone by providing the link to register in her info box. The whole process became more relatable.” She further went on to explain that politicians should utilise all aspects of the Internet, including bloggers. “Fashion may not have the recognition amongst politicians that it deserves but it reaches out to a hugely important set of voters – women. Many of these women read about fashion online (hence why I’m on this website) and a large proportion of this is likely to be younger women. We read about fashion through our favoured bloggers. So if fashion is using them as a tool of promotion, then why shouldn’t politicians? Some may worry at the prospect of losing credibility but they would reach a lot of voters and potentially attract more young (and female) voters. I really do feel that online interaction is key.”

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Journalist Dorothy Lawrence also attempted to enrol as an officer. She enlisted the help of a number of soldiers, collectively known as the ‘Khaki accomplices’, to smuggle her a khaki uniform, piece by piece. She flattened her figure using corsets, used cotton wool to bulk up her shoulders and cut her long, brown hair into a short military style. She even

Photographer: Jack Bowker Fashion editors: Katie Calvert & Olivia Holden Models: Isobel Kiely & Matty Gallant Hair & make-up: Rosie Jones Location: Yorkshire Moors All clothing: Sans

separated from her unit and thus joined the Serbian regiment for safety. It was not unknown for women to join the Serbian army due to a Balkan tradition of ‘sworn virgins’, women who take a vow of chastity and wear male clothing to live as men. It did, however, mean that she was the only British woman to officially enlist as a soldier in World War One. She received Serbia’s highest decoration, the King George star, before retiring to live in Serbia.

The only officially sanctioned group of she-soldiers were members of the Russian Battalion of Death

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As the year of remembrance for the First World War continues, we take a look at the forgotten women of the war omen in World War One are remembered as wives, mothers and sweethearts, nurses on the home front, or factory, munitions and land workers. But actual military involvement is rare and sounds alien to many of us. Women as warriors aren’t fantasy. They have been involved in battle for thousands of years up to the present day. Boudicca, possibly the most well known female warrior, led a doomed revolt against Roman invaders. In the 17th century Private Clarke served alongside her husband, a soldier for 9 years until the birth of her son unmasked her. In the present day women are allowed to serve alongside men in combat. Whilst the supporting roles undertaken by women were vital to the war effort, so was their military involvement, which has sadly been lost in the history books.

live life outdoors

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for those that love to

“I find the way politicians try to discredit each other childish and immature” “PM questions puts me off voting for people who are clearly too immature to run the country effectively. Engaging intelligently and in a mature manner would encourage me to listen to them”

White dress, £39.99, zara.com. Denim shirt, vintage Wrangler. Jeans, £200, acnestudios.com. Red choker, £12.99, hm.com.

VENTURE

Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve immediately. Once you get the hang of this, you can start to experiment with adding a layer of ‘filling’ in the centre. You put half the rice on the bottom, them spread a layer of something delicious (sour cherries, broad beans and dill, pistachios and slivers of orange peel) and then pour the rest of your rice on top and steam as usual.

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why young people don’t vote and politicians proving that they can remain faithful to policies would encourage them to vote, MPs constant discrediting of opposing politicians is seen as childish and immature. If this backbiting was to cease, potential young voters said they would have more faith in politicians and would listen to what they had to say, in the belief that they were suitable candidates to lead the country.

Striped, pink dress, £65, blue shirt, £59, both cosstores.com.

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our limbs the same; one common light we see, one air we breathe; nor different is the food we eat. What then denied to us hath heaven on man bestowed.” The patriarchal Greeks may have created these Amazonian myths in order to keep in check the potential power of the female, the power to do all that men could plus giving birth to life. They feared that they would lose their superiority to the women so they created stories where strong, fearless women would, ultimately, lose the battle and any change to the natural order, the male-dominated order, would always lead to trouble. Alongside the Amazonian’s there have been plenty of women who have typified the Amazonian spirit. Yaa Asantewaa, an Ashanti queen of Ghana, rallied her women. She said, “If you the men of Ashanti will not go forward, then we will. We the women will, I shall call upon you my fellow women. We will fight the white men. We will fight until the last of us falls in the battlefield.” In most recent times, a Ukrainian group, known as Asgarda and led by Katerina Tarnouska, has proclaimed themselves modern Amazonians. Yet still the myths flourish and the spirit of the Amazons lives on but it needs more women to recognise that they have the ruthless, strong minded, and fearless characteristics traditionally attributed to men and can use their strengths to create a more equalitarian society. Women don’t rule. Men mustn’t rule. They are equal.

Wrap the matching lid in a tea towel and clamp it firmly onto the pot. Leave for 1 hour to steam.

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To serve the rice, remove the lid and carefully shake the pot 2 or 3 times to help release the tahdig from the bottom. (It would seem that you need to be Iranian to do this well - so the foreigner’s alternative is to let the rice cool a little and then to place your hand on top of the rice and try to turn it with your fingers. If you can turn the rice and tahdig free of the base, you and your tahdig are in business)

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Catherine Booty Katie Calvert Zyra Shah Rosie Jones Palm House, Sefton Park

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Over time, such evidence is growing that Amazonian women existed governing large areas of Europe, Asia Minor and Africa. There were many matriarchal societies including one of Libyan women warriors originating on Tritonia, an island off the African coast, whose prominent military power was written about by Herodotus in the 6th century BC. Historically, the name Amazon has often been used to describe strong, warrior women, including a group of skilled fighting women encountered in battle by the explorer Francisco de Orellana in South America. He then renamed the Marañón River the Rio Amazonas, in honour of the women. The myths surrounding the Amazons are a significant part of human culture. They were the earliest symbols of society’s fear of feminism, questioning the order of life, rising against it, and not allowing themselves to be treated as less than human.

Taken from her website, here is a recipe for the perfect Persian Rice with ‘Tahdig’ crust

Instructions: Place your rice in a large bowl and fill with warm water. Swirl the rice around in the water and drain. Repeat this 3 or 4 times until the water is no longer cloudy. Drain the rice and set aside.

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should be persecuted and abused for wearing the hijab because they are expressing religious freedom and their right to dress as they choose.

Social media has been a huge factor in bringing together the global experiences of women around the world

Spread ng the Sty e

All headscarves, stylists own.

Since the media promotes female flesh to be celebrated and lusted after, the covered female body too should be accepted in the modern and progressive society that we are supposed to live in. But where are the Muslim women wearing the hijab on television? It is more likely that a Muslim on TV will not be covered, instead adhering to western ideals of beauty. Britain is a tolerant country, in comparison to many others, but it isn’t tolerant enough. The media plays on fear, including fear of the hijab. We need Muslim women in popular culture to dispel this myth. The young are a particular naïve and easily manipulated group. As tensions amongst cultures rise and politics become ever more contentious, a minority consider extremism to be a viable option. They need outlets to feel included within western society, and individuals like Tokio are doing just that. What may just have started as a blog about Muslim fashion and how to dress modestly, now engages many young people in a community that feels accepted, whilst also breaking down racist barriers and perceptions. Hijab bloggers are using fashion to communicate a different understanding of Islam. Wearing a scarf on your head and dressing modestly does not prevent you from being an awesome person too, with intellect and humour. Ultimately, it is all open to interpretation. According to the teachings of the Qur’an, women are not secondclass citizens; and the hijab is not an oppressive piece of outerwear. How one dresses will always be controversial, this is evident in western dress. But what sets the hijab apart from normal criticism is the smear of racism. Although the hijab is not a fashion statement, in the current climate, the world needs its Muslim fashion bloggers to help change perceptions. The hijab is there to liberate you from all oppression and honour you. By wearing it you are no longer judged on appearance alone, but instead also on intellect and actions. This is something that all people could learn from.

w Photographer: Fashion editor: Model: Make-up: Location:

The textile and clothing industry is the second largest employer in the developing world

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Such a low opinion of Muslim women fails to recognise the abundance of brilliant Islamic women that have populated o

and on health bringing long-term positive change and prosperity to communities. One factory in Vietnam established a kindergarten and health clinic, which reduced staff turnover and absenteeism, resulting in saved costs and sustained productivity. But this isn’t enough. That Vietnamese factory is just one positive story amongst a sea of negativity and greed. As long as we, the consumer, carry on buying into fast fashion and it’s devastating consequences, without considering what other options there are, businesses will continue to underpay workers. The consumer holds the power to change things. For the consumer with a love for labels and reputation, brands such as Veja and People Tree feed this. Veja works with small producers across Brazil, focusing not only on respecting human rights but on the environment, too. To boost their profile they recently collaborated with Lily Cole, environmentalist, model, and Cambridge graduate, on a collection of rainforest-inspired trainers. People Tree partners with Fair Trade artisans and farmers in the developing world to produce ethical and eco fashion. They worked with actress Emma Watson in 2010 and 2011, who is now, arguably, the world’s most prominent 21st century feminist.

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Women make up 85 to 90% of sweatshop workers in developing countries

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of the protests against bread shortages by women in St Petersburg, and many celebrations and enactments are planned. Also on this date, a global women’s strike including a sex strike is planned, which has been called by groups, including the International Union of Sex Workers. It will be interesting to see if that achieves results where other methods have failed!

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Understanding her background gives a real authenticity to the images. These girls certainly are authentic and true. But her work isn’t just about the girl who stomps in mud or kicks a football, the emphasis is on all girls (and women) as strong individuals when they are simply being themselves in any capacity, whatever they do with their lives, and whether or not they live up to social expectations. These images are a celebration of life and inspire us all with joy and confidence.

“My whole life, I’d believed in this powerful idea that girls should be free to be anything they want. I grew up playing sports, and the girls I emulated were the girls that were really strong and confident. They didn’t have the time to worry about how they looked, and so I came to understand that their worth was determined by something different, something stronger.”

proclaim March 8th as the UN Day for women’s rights and world peace, adding their backing to this Women’s Day. With the support of the UN, the principles of equality and full respect of human rights within the women’s movement have been strengthened and each year the UN lends a specific theme to concentrate and focus on in that particular year. This year, 2015, the theme is ‘Empowering Women, Empowering Humanity: Picture It.’

Credits

Fashion, Women, Power 56 Female politicians and their fear of fashion

s a mother of 2 young girls, photographer Kate T. Parker realised “wow, all of my strongest images are of my girls just being themselves - their freckled, emotional, sometimes dirty, messy selves,” and so she decided to pull them together to create ‘Strong is the New Pretty,’ an emotive and unstaged look at girls, captured for their abilities and playfulness rather than for their facial features and ‘girly’ qualities.

Fa h on Vangua d Week y

Kate T. Parker

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Strong Is The New Pretty

There are long lists of countries for which IWD is an official holiday, in some cases only for women, or observed as an unofficial one

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