Trend REPORT A/W 2016
trends MENSWEAR
RAW AND IMPURE invasion The traveler
VM & INSTORE
SENSIBLE SILENCe compound colour nautical nuance
PRINT & GRAPHICS
opulent f luidity DIGITALLY DAZED camo-me
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RAW & IMPURE “The major problems in the world are the result of the differences between the way nature works and the way people think.” – Gregory Bateson Sustainability is now seen as a greater importance, and this is reflected in the way in which we now dress. Garments are no longer aesthetically pleasing but are designed to reflect the actions of the human species on the environment, with problems such as global warming and ocean waste. Focusing on a minimal colour palette to keep this idea going that garments are close to becoming invisible to reflect the nature of the trend, which is to focus on the effects of the human speices on our habitat.
Diluted Black
Dusty Grey
Sand Paper
Frayed Navy
Burnt Teal
John Chamberlain (2012), Untitled (1976)
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Fracture Series, no date
Rips and frayed denim emphasize the idea of the deconstruction of human waste.
RAW & IMPURE
MENSWEAR Alex Mullins, 2016 Greg Lauren Fall, 2016
Frayed Jumper, 2016
TREND BOOKLET A/W 2016
Helly & Co, 2016
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invasion “Man has lost the capacity to forsee and to forestall. He will end by destroying the earth� - Albert Schweitzer In a world where man kind has created explosives and disruption, garments have become much less fitted and more oversized. A darker colour palette consisting of earthy tones resembles their attitudess to one another, and how they have become trivial and less tolerant in satisfying their needs. They no longer care to communicate or show affection to one another. The fluid nature of the silhouettes give a sort of sci-fi look to the trend.
Disruption
Boue
Extinct
Decipitate
Obstrusive
Agi & Sam Fall, 2016
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Detailing such as adjustable straps and multiple pockets being incorporated onto pieces with a military colour palette being used.
OAMC Fall, 2016
INVASION N°9, 2016
MENSWEAR
Dries Van Noten A/W , 2016
Y-3 Spring, 2016
TREND BOOKLET A/W 2016
Staff,W. Street Style, 2016
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the traveler “Every man can transform the world from one of monotony and drabness to one of excitement and adventure.” – Irving Wallace We live in an era where we have a desirability to explore and travel the world, to see things that only other could imagine. Now, we are able to live our dreams and explore places we had only ever dreamed of seeing. Pick up our bag and off we go in search of finding ourselves and what the exploration holds. Sledging, walking, skiing, swimming, we now seek more out of life with greater expectations and willingness to achieve. This season we will be seeing much more of the oversized parkas, fur lined coats, and the skier’s necessary accesorries, such as goggles and ski’s ready to seek the adventure they are ready to obtain.
Gecko Brown
Stone
Slate
Everest
Dark Mist
Loewe Fall, 2016
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A montone colour palette consiting of dark colours with a hint of slate grey to reflect the mist of the mountains.
Belstaff Autumn/Winter, 2016
Ashworth, Limited, P, 2016
THE TRAVELER
Belstaff Fall Menswear, 2016
MENSWEAR
Stan and Hsu, E, 2016
TREND BOOKLET A/W 2016
Winter scenery, no date
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SENSIBLE SILENCE “Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.� - Antoine de Saint-Exupe Technology has now become obsolete, people no longer care about the modern world anymore. They would rather surround themselves with the outdoor world rather than a world that we have developed without affection or communication. They have become much more conscious about their surroundings and what their actions are doing to the world and environment. Industrial visuals are still evolving, but on a much softer scale with a feminine touch being added.
Coffee
Cool Slate
Concrete Rose
Transluscent Blue
Copper
Texture, no date
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SENSIBLE SILENCE
Texture 2, no date
Lighting, no date
A modern take on femininity while still keeping patterns and colours minimal. Their style is sleek but aesthetically pleasing. Textures are kept natural to reflect their kindness and caring nature towards the planet, it is embedded into their philosophy.
V&M
Texture 1, no date
Studio, T.F, 2016
TREND BOOKLET A/W 2016
Theme and Milk, B, 2015
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compound colour “In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks.” — John Muir Vibrant infused colours reflecting on foreign cultures, focusing on everything natural. We will be seeing a much brighter scene, moving away from the montone industrial feel in V&M to a more ‘morrocanesque’ vibe. Colours will definitely be domineering this trend with abstract shapes and a big focus on natural woods being interpreted in a more modern style. Imperfection is key throughout this trend.
Chili
Apple Green
Avocado
Lavender
Cinnamon
Retail Design Blog, no date
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Coloured shapes, no date
compound colour
V&M
Painted wood display, no date
Focusing on natural materials such as wood and stone, but with a twist of vibrant colours and a decorative edge to give props a feeling of ‘man vs man-made’ vibe. Objects are left with a rough and unfinished look to create depth and texture with a strong accent on visual props.
Greg Klassen, no date
Wood display, no date
TREND BOOKLET A/W 2016
Ramon Todo, no date
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nautical nuance “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.� —Leonardo da Vinci An element of calmness and tranquility for those who are more with nature and a less on-the-go lifestyle. A more contemporary feel for the nautical trend with a sleeker and innovative finish, rather than the conventionally sea side sailor theme with rustic ropes and ring buoys.
Dusk
Placid Blue
Bark
Sea Blue
Brouillard
Babinettes by Kate Jackling, 2014
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Fukumoto Shihoko, no date
V&M
Corporation, A.W, 1993
Olafur Eliasson, circular mirror, no date
Translucent surfaces evoke the feeling of moving water. Silhouettes are cleaner and sharper, focusing on a more contemporary structure. A rich palette of blue tones featuring greys and beiges for a modernist edge.
TREND BOOKLET A/W 2016
‘Batholith etchings’ : Erin Louise, 2012
NAUTICAL NUANCE
Indigo Acoustic tiles, 2016
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opulent fluidity “Here we are, the most clever species ever to have lived. So how is it we can destroy the only planet we have?� – Jane Goodall A generation where technology is taking over the human race, where ideas around sci-fi are no longer in the imagination but are becoming more of a reality. With a world revolving around technology, a futuristic element has overshadowed the world of fashion, predominating back to the space-age period.
Ice White
Blue Topaz
Foil
Gold
Forte
Raffinerie, no date
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A more premium feel to metallics, with a richer lustrous texture. Molten gold and silver tones will add definition and give a luxurious feel to garments with a pop of colour being added to give a more iridescent and sci-fi take on the trend.
Les incroyables sculptures , 2013
opulent f luidity
Metallic trousers, 2016
GRAPHICS & PRINT
Christopher Kane Pre Fall, 2016
Lisson Gallery, 2011
TREND BOOKLET A/W 2016
McQ Spring Ready-To-Wear, 2015
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DIGITALLY DAZED “Technology is the fashion of the ‘90s. It affects everyone, and everyone is interested in it - either from fear of being left behind or because they have a real need to use technology.” Jay Chiat A world that no longer faces limitations in the digital world of technology. Used as part of the human beings daily routine that we know unconditionally in our lives. We no longer communicate the same way or see the world through books but rather through screens. Technology has blurred our vision with colorful pixels and a new route for exploration.
Acid Yellow
Electra
Jet Black
Lava Fury
Powered Teal
Digital Graphic, 2015
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Optical illusion prints to reflect the distortion of microwave patterns and high frequency. Colours are vibrant with hints of black used throughout to accentuate an optical effect.
TREND BOOKLET A/W 2016
Lucas Magalhaes Outono-Inverno, 2016
Distorted Graphic, 2015
GRAPHICS & PRINT
Graphic Trousers, 2016
Digital Computer Graphic, 2015
digitally dazed
High Definition, no date
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camo me “In Wildness is the preservation of the world.” – Henry David Thoreau A world where conflict and violence is still evolving, where mankind are at each others throats and victims are shadowed by the darkness of war still to this day. We shy away from the news with the never-ending sadness of death and pain that are faced upon our loved ones. Camouflage is making its way into the scene yet again, but with a modern take on military green for a more vibrant and bold abstract look. Who would of thought that the use of bold colours entering the world of camo would now contradict the true meaning of the word ‘camouflage’.
Grenade
Jet Black
Shell
Marine Blue
Sombre
Neil Barrett SS16 Collection, 2016
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TREND BOOKLET A/W 2016
Nude Camo, 2016
ASOS Camo, 2016
GRAPHICS & PRINT
N°9 - AW2016, 2, 2016
CAMO ME
Moncler Gamme Bleu Fall 2016 Menswear, 2016
A development from the notorious ‘khaki camouflage’, we will now be seeing a brighter array of colours including different tones of blues, drifitng away from the khaki greens.
Camouflage, no date
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References BrainyQuote, 2016 (2001) Irving Wallace quotes at BrainyQuote.com. Available at: http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/ quotes/i/irvingwall318795.html (Accessed: 28 March 2016). BrainyQuote, 2016 (2001) Leonardo da Vinci quotes at BrainyQuote.com. Available at: http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/ quotes/l/leonardoda107812.html (Accessed: 18 March 2016). Dejan (2009) Great quotations: Words of the wise — the green spotlight. Available at: http://www.thegreenspotlight.com/ quotations/ (Accessed: 1 April 2016). Dillon, S. (2011) The fundamentals of fashion management. Lausanne: AVA Publishing SA. (Accessed: 18 March 2016). Faisca, F. (no date) Albert Schweitzer quotes & biography. Available at: http://www.unitedearth.com.au/schweitzer.html (Accessed: 20 March 2016). Jay Chiat quotes: Technology is the fashion of the ’90s.… (2016) Available at: http://www.inspirationalstories.com/quotes/jaychiat-technology-is-the-fashion-of-the-90s/ (Accessed: 18 March 2016). Kreilkamp, A. (2012) Gregory Bateson: ‘The major problems of the world are the result of the difference between the way nature works and the way people think’. Available at: https://exopermaculture.com/2012/11/12/gregory-bateson-the-majorproblems-of-the-world-are-the-result-of-the-difference-between-the-way-nature-works-and-the-way-people-think/ (Accessed: 18 March 2016). Muir, J. (2016) A quote by John Muir. Available at: http://www.goodreads.com/quotes/23638-in-every-walk-with-nature-onereceives-far-more-than (Accessed: 20 March 2016). The quotations page: Quote from Antoine de Saint-Exupery (no date) Available at: http://www.quotationspage.com/ quote/26979.html (Accessed: 18 March 2016).
list of illustrations RAW & IMPURE
LTD, A.M. (2012) John Chamberlain pace gallery AM 05 « arrested motion Available at: http://arrestedmotion.com/2011/05/ openings-john-chamberlain-pace-gallery/john-chamberlain-pace-gallery-am-05/ Sherman, C. (1976) Untitled Available at: http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/sherman-untitled-p78496 (Accessed: 18 March 2016). Shrbr: Fracture series by flight404 on Flickr (no date) Available at: http://www.randomghost.com/post/86272286137/shrbrfracture-series-by-flight404-on-flickr (Accessed: 25 March 2016). Alex Mullins 2016-2017 fall autumn Winter Mens looks (2016) Available at: http://www.denimjeansobserver.com/ mag/2016/01/09/alex-mullins-2016-2017-fall-autumn-winter-fashion-london-men-frayed-androgyny-deconstructed-coat-skirtfaces-denim-jeans-observer/ (Accessed: 3 April 2016). Greg Lauren Fall 2016 menswear fashion show (no date) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016menswear/greg-lauren/slideshow/collection#16?mbid=ios_share (Accessed: 25 February 2016). Frayed Jumper (2016) Individual Work HELLY&CO (no date) Available at: http://helendushko.tumblr.com/post/63665445230 (Accessed: 1 April 2016).
INVASION Agi & Sam Fall 2016 menswear fashion show (2016) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/ agi-sam/slideshow/collection#32 (Accessed: 22 March 2016). OAMC fall 2016 menswear fashion show (no date) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/ oamc/slideshow/collection#7 (Accessed: 5 March 2016). N°9 - AW2016 (2016) Available at: http://etudes-studio.com/collection/n-9-aw2016 (Accessed: 5 March 2016). Y-3 spring 2016 menswear fashion show (no date) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016menswear/y-3/slideshow/collection#51 (Accessed: 5 March 2016). Dries Van Noten Menswear Autumn/Winter 2016/17 (2016) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2016/ mens/dries-van-noten/full-length-photos/gallery/1549184 (Accessed: 5 March 2016). Staff, W. (2016) They are wearing: London collections: Men’s fall 2016 [PHOTOS] Available at: http://wwd.com/fashion-news/ they-are-wearing/gallery/they-are-wearing-london-collections-mens-fall-2016-photos-10308115/#!112/undefined/ (Accessed: 22 March 2016).
THE TRAVELER Loewe fall 2016 menswear fashion show (no date) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/ loewe/slideshow/collection (Accessed: 25 March 2016). Ashworth, Limited, P. and END, A. (2016) ‘The ascent of Cabourn’ limited edition collection – now online Available at: http:// www.endclothing.com/blog/cabourn-celebrates-the-60th-anniversary-of-the-1955-trans-antarctic-expedition-with-a-newlyrenovated-parka/ (Accessed: 25 March 2016). Stan and Hsu, E. (2016) Emporio Armani 2016 秋冬系列－打破舊有形象 Available at: http://hypebeast.cn/2016/1/ emporio-armani-2016 (Accessed: 28 March 2016). Belstaff autumn/winter 2015-16 menswear (2015) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2015/mens/ belstaff (Accessed: 28 March 2016). Belstaff fall 2016 menswear fashion show (no date) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/belstaff/slideshow/collection#6 (Accessed: 28 March 2016). Winter scenery (no date) Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/501377370989255866/ (Accessed: 21 March 2016).
SENSIBLE SILENCE Texture (no date) Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.23028618/set/%5B%22image.23028590%22,%22image.23028618%22,%22image.23028643%22,%22image.23028587%22,%22image.22575748%22,%22image.23028581%22,%22image.21246656%22,%22image.23028601%22%5D (Accessed: 12 March 2016). Lighting (no date) Available at: http://www.wgsn.com/reports/boards/view?boardnum=56790&mypage=4&lang=en (Accessed: 20 March 2016). Texture 1 (no date) Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.23028647/set/%5B%22image.23028647%22,%22image.23028582%22,%22image.23028598%22,%22image.23028592%22,%22image.23028648%22,%22image.21329991%22,%22image.23028609%22,%22image.23028596%22%5D (Accessed: 12 March 2016). 39
Texture 2 (no date) Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.23028627/set/%5B%22image.23028589%22,%22image.23028617%22,%22image.23028627%22,%22image.23028624%22,%22image.23028603%22,%22image.23031327%22,%22image.21769165%22,%22image.23028626%22%5D (Accessed: 12 March 2016). Studio, T.F. (2016) Saddle chair Available at: http://thomfougere.com/saddle-chair/ (Accessed: 26 March 2016). Theme and Milk, B. (2015) T.D.C Available at: http://www.thedesignchaser.com/2015/05/monday-mix-up_25.html (Accessed: 22 March 2016).
compound colour Retail Design Blog (no date) Cylk store installation by studio Twocan, Melbourne Available at: http://retaildesignblog. net/2012/11/19/cylk-store-installation-by-studio-twocan-melbourne/ (Accessed: 28 March 2016). Painted wood display (no date) Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.22248020/ set/%5B%22image.20718913%22,%22image.22248045%22,%22image.22248019%22,%22image.22247980%22,%22image.22248082%22,%22image.22248027%22,%22image.22248020%22,%22image.22248018%22%5D (Accessed: 16 March 2016). Wood display (no date) Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.22247966/set/%5B%22image.22247965%22,%22image.22248043%22,%22image.22247966%22,%22image.20602316%22,%22image.22248044%22,%22image.22248033%22,%22image.22247978%22,%22image.22247973%22%5D (Accessed: 16 March 2016). Coloured Shapes (no date) Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.22248080/ set/%5B%22image.22248078%22,%22image.22247994%22,%22image.22248085%22,%22image.22247998%22,%22image.22248080%22,%22image.22247967%22,%22image.22247979%22,%22image.22247997%22%5D (Accessed: 16 March 2016). Greg Klassen (no date) Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.22248085/set/%5B%22image.22248078%22,%22image.22247994%22,%22image.22248085%22,%22image.22247998%22,%22image.22248080%22,%22image.22247967%22,%22image.22247979%22,%22image.22247997%22%5D (Accessed: 16 March 2016). Ramon Todo (no date) Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/image_viewer/#/image.22248082/set/%5B%22image.20718913%22,%22image.22248045%22,%22image.22248019%22,%22image.22247980%22,%22image.22248082%22,%22image.22248027%22,%22image.22248020%22,%22image.22248018%22%5D (Accessed: 16 March 2016).
NAUTICAL NUANCE Babinettes by Kate Jackling (2014) Available at: http://inhalemag.com/babinettes-kate-jackling/ (Accessed: 1 April 2016). Fukumoto Shihoko (no date) Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/538320961688302582/ (Accessed: 1 April 2016). Tatums goin back to Ryans blues by Jack Pierson (1993) Available at: http://www.artnet.com/artists/jack-pierson/tatums-goinback-to-ryans-blues-a-WaHT-z60Aynweeux0FUzHg2 (Accessed: 2 April 2016). ‘Batholith etchings’: Erin Louise (2012) Available at: http://erinlouise.com/2012/03/batholith-etchings/ (Accessed: 2 April 2016). Olafur Eliasson, circular mirror (no date) Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/3d/15/bf/3d15bf1476a4bb57f533c8814b5f7691.jpg (Accessed: 1 April 2016). Indigo Acoustic tiles (2016) Available at: http://mauricioaffonso.com/project/indigo/ (Accessed: 1 April 2016).
OPULENT FLUIDITY Raffinerie (no date) Available at: http://raffinerie.tumblr.com/image/87903374262 (Accessed: 3 April 2016). Metallic trousers (2016) Individual Work. Christopher Kane Pre Fall (2016) Available at: http://www.stylourbano.com.br/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/christopher_ kane_pre_fall_2016_collection15.jpg (Accessed: 3 April 2016). Les incroyables sculptures surréalistes de Johnson Tsang (2013) Available at: http://www.wikilinks.fr/les-incroyables-sculptures-surrealistes-de-johnson-tsang/?lang=en (Accessed: 3 April 2016). Lisson gallery (2011) Available at: http://www.lissongallery.com/artists/jason-martin/gallery/1264 (Accessed: 1 April 2016). McQ Alexander McQueen Spring Ready-To-Wear (2015) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015ready-to-wear/mcq-alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/collection#3 (Accessed: 3 April 2016).
DIGITALLY DAZED Digital Graphic (2015) Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/60991/page/4 (Accessed: 3 April 2016). Graphic Trousers (2016) Individual Work. Distorted Graphic (2015) Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/59358/page/9 (Accessed: 10 March 2016). Digital Computer Graphic (2015) Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/61571/page/2 (Accessed: 5 March 2016). Lucas Magalhães outono-inverno (2016) Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/448882287838154737/ (Accessed: 10 March 2016). High Definition (no date) Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/292804413245579433/ (Accessed: 25 March 2016).
CAMO ME Neil Barrett SS16 collection: Milan Fashion week (2015) Available at: http://lostculture.co/2015/06/neil-barrett-ss16-collectionmilan-fashion-week/ (Accessed: 3 April 2016). Moncler Gamme Bleu Fall 2016 Menswear (2016) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/ moncler-gamme-bleu (Accessed: 1 April 2016). N°9 - AW2016, 2 (2016) Available at: http://etudes-studio.com/collection/n-9-aw2016 (Accessed: 5 March 2016). ASOS Camo (2016) Available at: http://www.asos.com/ASOS/ASOS-Extreme-Longline-Bomber-Jacket-In-Camo-Print/Prod/ pgeproduct.aspx?iid=5799689&istCompanyId=6f061ed0-7427-4b6c-bb90-987c0bd08468&istItemId=qlpitxpla&istBid=tztx&affid=14173&channelref=product+search&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_term=178738715545&utm_ content=&utm_campaign=&cvosrc=ppc.google.178738715545&network=g&mobile=&search=1&content=&creative=84679654101&ptid=178738715545&adposition=1o21&r=2&mk=ab&gclid=Cj0KEQjwr5G5BRD_n-T0pf7x4ucBEiQAlxHOP5S0s0f6W_Skk5cUYquvlmlynmpCuCFX9yC97GeHtOcaAusA8P8HAQ (Accessed: 25 April 2016). Nude Camo (2016) Individual Work. Camouflage (no date) Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/446911962993601367/ (Accessed: 3 April 2016). 41
By Katie Price