Fashion and Film
1968 Director: Stanley Kubrick Costume designer:Hardy Amies 1971 Director: Stanley Kubrick Costume designer: Milena Canonero 1975 Director: Steven Spielberg Costume designer: Marla Denise Schlom
ANNIE HALL
1977 Director: Woody Alan Costume designer: Ruth Morely 1977 Director: George Lucas Costume designer: John Mollo 1978 Director: Randal Kleiser Costume designer: Albert Wolsky
1979 Director: Ridley Scott Costume designer: John Mollo 1982 Director: Ridley Scott Costume designer: Michael Kaplan and Charles Knode 1991 Director: James Cameron Costume designer: Marlen Stewart 1994 Director: Robert Zemeckis Costume designer: Joanna Johnston 1995 Director: Amy Heckerling Costume designer: Mona May
2001 Director: Wes Anderson Costume designer: Karen Patch
Contents:
- Introduction.....Page 5 - Direct Influences..... Pages 8-31 - Inspired by......... Pages 34-41 - Conclusion......Page 42
Introduction: In this zine I will be exploring the contemporary fashion issue of fashion and film specifically exploring how costumes within the entertainment industry, including movies and television programmes impact and influence the fashion industry. I will focus on how the fashion in films and costume design correlate with trends in fashion today and how these trends tend to follow a cyclical pattern. I will also investigate how films inspire high end fashion designers and how the outfits in films hold parallels with the looks found on luxury runways at major fashion weeks and shows. I will use both historical and contemporary examples as evidence for my fashion issue including cult classic films such as ‘Star Wars’ and ‘Jaws’, influences from iconic movie directors such as Stanley Kubrick and his films ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’ and ‘A Clockwork Orange’, and modern television shows such as HBO’s ‘Game of Thrones’ and Netflix’s ‘Stranger Things’. I think that the link between fashion and film is a contemporary fashion issue worth looking at today as I think it is very interesting to see how one costume or item of clothing from a movie can impact an entire fashion trend. I think this has a powerful effect on people because it can allow anyone to express themselves and what they like, be it through recreating a whole character’s costume, or just wearing a t-shirt featuring the poster from their favourite film, all available to them from a range of different outlets from high end to high street. I also think its intriguing that as well as influencing new trends, movies and TV shows are able to keep ‘old’ trends alive and help these trends regain their popularity, which without the influence of a film or programme it could be argued this wouldn’t have happened. For example, with the British television show ‘Peaky Blinders’ which is set in the 1920s and features a prominent accessory from that time period: the flat cap. It could be argued this trend has been reignited as in recent years it has become very popular as a winter trend in menswear and as a symbol for the TV show. I believe that the relationship between film and fashion will continue to be of importance because they lean on each other so much for inspiration as current trends in fashion will set the basis for a costume designer, for example if they were producing costumes for a modern-day film, and films can serve as an advertisement for certain clothes of brands to then determine what is on trend and popular.
5
Direct
6
Influences
8
Keir Dullea as astronuat David Bowman in director Stanley Kubrick’s ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’ (1968)
2001: A Space Odyssey’s costume designer Hardy Amies worked with the film’s director Stanley Kubrick to create a prediction of the future through the film’s costumes, whilst also implementing elements of fashion trends of the time, such as the ‘Space Age’ trend of the 1960s, featuring minimalist silhouettes.
Undercover’s AW18 menswear collection designed by Jun Takahashi. It is clear to see how ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’ is referenced in today’s fashion through runway shows such as Undercover’s AW18 collection featuring looks extremely similar to that of the costumes of the film, such as the orange spacesuit. It can even be seen in high street fashion such as the winter trend of puffer jackets that are very reminiscent of a spacesuit through their shape.
9
Malcolm McDowell as Alex in Stanley Kubrick’s ‘A Clockwork Orange’ (1971) The recognisable outfits of ‘The Droogs’ from Stanley Kubrick’s ‘A Clockwork Orange’ were created by costume designer Milena Canonero. She drew inspiration from London street style of the time such as the black ‘bovver’ boots and suspenders which were known throughout the city and connected to the subculture of skinheads. She also added the bowler hats and canes, items which were common place in the 1950s and 1960s, but brought a retro feel to the 1970s film.
10
Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2008 menswear collection The classic Droog look is reinvigorated by Jean Paul Gaultier with his AW08 menswear collection featuring staple Droog pieces such as bowler hats, suspenders and combat boots.
11
Olivia Newton-John and John Travolta as Sandy and Danny in Grease (1978) Grease encapsulated classic 1950s trends such as bomber and leather biker jackets, roll up jeans and pencil and flared skirts. These trends have become timeless in modern fashion with leather jackets never going out of style and specifically vintage jeans including brands such as ‘Levi’s’ becoming popular.
12
Jean Paul Gaultier SS14 Paris Fashion Week ready to wear collection featuring model Coco Rocha.
Grease has also inspired runway shows like that of Jean Paul Gaultier’s SS14 Paris Fashion Week ready to wear collection which featured looks similar to that of the characters Sandy and Danny and even had models walk to the films famous song ‘You’re the one that I want’.
13
John Hurt as Kane in Ridley Scott’s ‘Alien’ (1979)
14
Craig Green AW17 The costumes of ‘Alien’, though only few, inspire a dystopian post-apocalyptic trend in today’s fashion. The spacesuits worn in the film seemingly have influenced current designers such as Craig Green as his AW17 runway featured looks similar to that of the spacesuits including elements such as ‘air supply tubes’ as the looks were inspired by an ‘end-of-the-world battle for survival’ which definitely holds parallels with the theme of Alien. Even in more mainstream fashion an Alien inspired look could be achieved for example with leather look or PVC style dresses to emulate the look of the actual Alien itself.
15
Diane Keaton as Annie Hall in Woody Allen’s ‘Annie Hall’ (1977) Woody Allen’s ‘Annie Hall’ sparked a 70’s trend of menswear for women due to the quirky costumes of Diane Keaton’s character Annie Hall herself. Ralph Lauren was a prominent brand popularising the trend at the time with slouchy jackets and wide leg trousers. Ralph Lauren revisited the 70s staple look with his Fall 2016 ready to wear collection featuring oversized sports jackets. This trend was quite revolutionary at the time as it wasn’t just women wearing trousers but wearing actual menswear and so empowering women to go against the ‘norm’.
16
Lady Gaga at ELLE’s 25th Annual Women in Hollywood Celebration wearing an oversized Marc Jacobs suit.
This still resonates with women today, for example Lady Gaga recently attended ELLE’S 25th Annual Women in Hollywood Celebration and wore an oversized Marc Jacobs suit rather than a dress to show the standards that are placed on women for how they are ‘supposed’ to look. In her speech she touched on subjects such as mental health and sexual abuse and used the powerful statement “Today, I wear the pants.”
17
18
Arnold Schwarzenegger as the Terminator in James Cameron’s ‘Terminator 2: Judgement Day (1991)
Arnold Schwarzenegger’s character the Terminator is known for his recognisable leather biker jacket. At the time of release of the sequel the 1980s had not long been over and during the 80s the subculture ‘Punks’ often showed their style through leather jackets and so this trend can be seen through director James Cameron’s action film. This trend continues into modern day fashion with leather jackets being a staple item in both menswear and womenswear.
Topman black leather biker jacket.
19
Daryl Hannah as Pris in Ridley Scott’s ‘Blade Runner’ (1982) The costumes of Blade Runner provide a prediction of fashion in the future whilst integrating 1980s trends such as large padded shoulders and big hair. These trends were reimagined and taken inspiration from in Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall 2009 couture runway where one of the models was dressed as actress Daryl Hannah’s character Pris with the look including elements such as her shaggy blonde bob and black smokey eye makeup showing that these trends extend the 1980s.
20
Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 couture show.
21
Tom Hanks as Forrest Gump in ‘Forrest Gump’ (1994)
The costumes worn by Tom Hanks as Forrest Gump in his famous cross-country running scene hold parallels with the athleisure and sportswear as outerwear trend popular in today’s fashion.
22
Model Bella Hadid wearing Nike Cortez The film also has a large focus on the brand Nike, specifically their ‘Cortez’ shoe as Forrest’s running shoe. This connects to the trainer culture of today with the ‘Cortez’ still very popular over 20 years after the film’s release with it often being worn by celebrities such as model Bella Hadid who was also involved in Nike’s 2017 campaign celebrating the 45th anniversary of the shoe.
23
Alicia Silverstone as Cher Horowitz in ‘Clueless’ (1995) The cult classic Clueless helped inspire a new trend during the 90s known as ‘preppy minimalism’. It was a new and fresh idea different to the typical grunge trend that was also popular at the time and took influences from the 60s and 70s having characters such as Cher, played by Alicia Silverstone, dressed in sweater sets and plaid miniskirts.
24
Topshop Thailand yellow check denim skirt and jacket. The most recognisable costume from Clueless has got to be Cher Horowitz’s yellow check Dolce & Gabbana blazer and skirt set from the opening of the film. The pattern has recently become very popular with high street and online brands such as Topshop, New Look, ASOS and PrettyLittleThing, all bringing their own twist to the 90s trend with it being reimagined as dresses, denim pieces and coats.
25
26
Gwyneth Paltrow as Margot Tenenbaum in Wes Anderson’s ‘The Royal Tenenbaums’ (2001)
Director Wes Anderson is known for his eccentric costumes found in his quirky movies. He and costume designer Milena Canonero have successfully created a specific style for Anderson’s films which is instantly distinguishable and recognisable from other films. All outfits in Anderson’s films are made exclusively for the film, for example Gwyneth Paltrow’s character Margot Tenenbaum’s fur coat is unique to her.
H&M faux fur brown coat Even though everything is created new for Anderson’s films, he plays off of classic trends, for example in the Royal Tenenbaums with the fur coat. It is a timeless item that comes back into season every winter, allowing the recreation of looks such as Margot Tenenbaums’ easily accessible through high street brands such as H&M.
27
Ben Stiller as Chas Tenenbaum in Wes Anderson’s ‘The Royal Tenenbaums’ (2001) Another fashion reference found in Wes Anderson’s ‘The Royal Tenenbaums’ is the trend of sportswear as outerwear. In the film Ben Stiller’s character Chas Tenenbaum does wear a tracksuit for its practical use but with it being an Adidas tracksuit it fits in well with the brand heavy trend and its popularity today, especially with vintage sportswear from the 70s and 80s and Anderson tends to take influence from 70s styles and trends.
28
Lacoste 2015 Fall ready to wear collection. Many similarities can be seen between the red Adidas tracksuit and look 2 from the Lacoste 2015 Fall ready to wear collection. This shows brands taking inspiration from other brands and the influences can be seen from ‘The Royal Tenenbaums’ with the look being sportswear based, but with it being more fitting with the recent trend of wearing sportswear for fashion as the outfit looks more tailored than a traditional tracksuit.
29
Kit Harington as Jon Snow in HBO’s ‘Game of Thrones’. Despite Game of Thrones’ setting, it has provided large influences in the modern world of fashion. For example with the Helmut Lang AW12 collection a direct correlation can be seen between one of the looks and the character Jon Snow’s costume due to the leather and fringing elements showing that a wearable look inspired by a fantasy themed costume can be achieved.
30
Helmut Lang AW12
31
Inspired
By
33
Poster for Netflix’s ‘Stranger Things’. Netflix’s Stranger Things has shot to popularity with its science and horror fiction fueled story line. It’s popularity has also shone through in fashion with it’s setting coinciding with the 1980’s revival trend currently happening with classic 80’s pieces such as ‘mom jeans’ becoming extremely popular.
34
Louis Vuitton SS18 ready to wear collection, Look 37 Influences from the shows characters can be seen in fashion, for example actress Shannon Purser’s character Barb has become quite an icon for the show with people being able to recreate her look with mom jeans and patterned blouses. This same inspiration can be seen in Louis Vuitton’s SS18 ready to wear collection with look 37 featuring a heavily floral patterned blouse accompanied with a Stranger Things poster t-shirt. The t-shirt links the luxuriousness of high end fashion, such as Louis Vuitton, to high street brands such as Primark or Topshop as similar items have been released by both showing that the Netflix series has made a broad impact across fashion.
35
Poster for Steven Spielberg’s ‘Jaws’ (1975)
36
Calvin Klein SS19 collection at New York Fashion Week, Look 22. Steven Spielberg’s ‘Jaws’ recently inspired a Calvin Klein runway at New York Fashion Week with looks featuring nods to the film such as outfits including wetsuits and skirts with rips and shark bites. More wearable pieces included Jaws poster tank tops covered with the Calvin Klein logo to add a uniqueness to the brands version of the classic poster print that can be found online and in high street stores almost 45 years after the film’s initial release.
37
Poster for ‘Star Wars: Episode IV - A New Hope’ (1977)
38
‘Star Wars’ Vans Star Wars has been inspiring generations since its initial release in 1977 and continues to with the original trilogy still extremely popular and new Star Wars films currently being produced. Star Wars in general is almost its own trend as most high street and online brands sell Star wars themed items, all year round or release specific collections to celebrate the sci-fi flicks legacy such as ‘Vans’, ‘Columbia’ and ‘Chamilia’.
39
Mickey Mouse Disney has such a prevalence in fashion from high end luxury to high street. Many brands have produced collaborations with Disney such as Cath Kidston X Snow Whit and Vans X Toy Story, to name a few. Even designer brands such as Dolce & Gabbana find inspiration from Disney with their fall 2016 Fall collection featuring looks including characters and scenes from classic Disney princess fairy tales such as ‘Beauty and the Beast’ and ‘Princess and the Frog’.
40
Forever 21 Mickey Mouse pinafore dress. Recently the biggest Disney influence has been the mascot himself Mickey Mouse as 2018 marks his 90th birthday and so many high street stores have released specific merchandise to celebrate such as Forever 21 and Primark. As Mickey Mouse is still so influential 90 years after his creation this shows how timeless Disney is as Disney themed clothing can be found almost everywhere at all times.
41
Conclusion: To conclude, through researching and creating this zine I have discovered how the world of fashion and the world of film are interlinked. They have the power to inspire each other with fashion designers and costume designers alike influencing each other’s work, for example, with a costume from the screen materialising as a physical outfit on a high-end designer runway. This can be seen with the costumes of director Wes Anderson’s films which I believe are very Gucci inspired as both tend to have a very ‘ugly-pretty’ and 1970s feel to them. Then in turn I also believe that the costumes of Wes Anderson’s films influence the looks of Gucci with their Autumn/Winter 2015 runway collection featuring an outfit very similar to that of the bell boy costumes from Anderson’s 2014 crime comedy ‘The Grand Budapest Hotel’. Influences from entertainment in more mainstream and everyday fashion is also very clear to see with brands and stores picking up on the popularity of films such as ‘Clueless’ and putting their own spin on the outfits of the film without them looking like a direct costume and so making it a fashionable trend. I believe that the nods to movies and TV shows that can be found in fashion today are interesting to look out for as it means that a film becomes much more than just a film, it has a physical extension of itself influencing both designers to create and consumers to wear, which keeps a continuous cycle going of fashion influencing film, and film influencing fashion.
42
43
Ugh, as if! Tell me bout it stud.
My mama says that stupid is as stupid does.
What’s it going to be then, eh?
Katie Thompson
Open the pod bay doors, HAL.
This is Ripley, last survivor of the Nostromo, signing off.
Hasta la vista, baby.
You’re gonna need a bigger boat.