CONCEPTUAL cosmetics store research . katy reeve
FACE
CONTENTS PAGE 2. CHAPTER 1 . INTRODUCTION PAGE 5. CHAPTER 2 . CONCEPT PAGE 7. CHAPTER 3 . THE BRAND PAGE 10. CHAPTER 4 .COMPETITIVE MARKET PAGE 11. - CONCEPT STORES PAGE 12. - COSMETICS STORES PAGE 14. CHAPTER 5 . TARGET MARKET PAGE 16. CHAPTER 6 . THE COSMETICS MARKET PAGE 19. CHAPTER 7 . SOCIAL & ECONOMIC ISSUES PAGE 21. CHAPTER 8 . OUTCOME OF FACE PAGE 23. REFERENCES PAGE 26. BIBLIOGRAPHY
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CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION The aim of this document is to analyse the outcome of research undertaken into the cosmetics and conceptual retail industry. This will then be taken forward in order to design and develop an exciting and feasible experiential cosmetics store which stands apart from its competitors and is appropriate for all customers, regardless of age, gender or race. In their article, ‘World’s Best-Selling Make-up’ (Mmoma Ejiofor, 2006), Forbes magazine cites, ‘the expansion of new markets in Russia and Asia’; ‘changing social norms that make wearing make-up - not to mention undergoing cosmetic surgery - more acceptable’; ‘celebrity worship’ and ‘promotion within fashion magazines’ as just some of the resasons behind the expanding cosmetics market. We are constantly bombarded with images of ‘perfection’, from glossy magazines and adverts to the faces seen on television, it’s no wonder we are not only a nation, but a society obsessed with aesthetics and beauty. This quest for ‘perfection’, as Forbes suggests, is just one of the many reasons behind the global expansion within the beauty market, even during times of recession. This proposal will suggest that there is a significant gap in the market where the Cosmetics Industry is concerned. Unlike the fashion industry, currently there isn’t a cosmetics specific department store within the United Kingdom, which encompasses the idea of experience within a purely cosmetics based retail environment. This new retail arena will encompass different aspects of experiential shopping in order to enhance the customer’s shopping experience while at the store. It will also create a strengthened relationship between customers and existing cosmetics brands. The research gained from this project will show that there are parallels between current trends within the conceptual retail industry and the new cosmetics department store style shop.
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METHODOLOGY Research Points : Different aspects of the make-up industry have been explored within this research document, focusing mainly on cosmetics, but also looking into other successful retail implementations which could sway the final outcome of the project. Shopping habits and the way in which consumers prefer to buy make-up is another aspect which has been looked into at depth in order to ensure the area is exploited properly and appropriately within Face. This also includes shopper psychology. These areas of research will then be split into both Primary and Secondary research headings, in order to provide a rich source of information which will assist in making rational design decisions. The research gained will ascertain as to whether or not Face will be a viable concept and will provide the rationale and reasoning behind the overall outcome. All research undertaken will be documented within the appendices. The main focus of this research is: • target market • competitors • current shopping experiences • concept stores and how they work • shopping psychology • various cosmetics brands • the current state of the cosmetics market • location • important factors within store environments Primary Research Primary research for this document will include both quantitative and qualitative information gained through the following methods : • online surveys • emails • focus groups • market research on the industry • looking at existing competitors via their websites Secondary Research Secondary research will also assist in shaping the final outcome of this project. methods will include: • •
literature reviews using the relevant books • appropriate magazine articles mintel reports on the health and beauty industry • journals • websites
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CHAPTER 2 CONCEPT
THE CONCEPT The idea behind this research project is to design and develop a new conceptual cosmetics house called Face. Face will not only house and sell some of the already existing leading names within the cosmetics industry, but will also provide a unique experience for the customer. Face will assist in educating customers in makeup, within an experientially designed environment. This design will also include the other appropriate retail multi-channel communication methods, which run parallel to a new store. Multi-channel communication is key to building a new brand and business. As part of this, a website and catalogue will be developed, alongside the other critical elements to retailing within the twenty-first century. This final outcome will be seen by the customer almost as a ‘shrine’ to beauty, housing some of the top names within the cosmetics industry. The store will also feature various experiential elements in order to enhance the customer’s shopping experience. The store will provide customers with the opportunity to purchase their favourite beauty products from well known brands within a luxurious, relaxing and unique shopping arena. While these products may be available from various other outlets on the high street, this new concept cosmetics house will offer extra added value to the overall experience of the customers. The concept is aimed at targeting a new shopping experience for the beauty consumer and building and enhancing relationships between the customer and existing brands. Face will be home to 8 luxury cosmetics brands, These will include: • • • • • • • •
Burberry Beauty Chanel Creme de la Mer Estee Lauder MAC Stila Yves Saint Laurent Tom Ford Beauty
OBJECTIVE The overall objective of Face is to fill an area of the market which isn’t currently occupied. The intention of Face is also to educate customers and ensure that their shopping experience is enhanced and made as relaxing and easy as possible. Consumers tend to buy cosmetics in a rushed environment. Face will provide a unique make-up shopping experience.
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CHAPTER 3 THE BRAND
THE BRAND “People fall in love with brands, trust them, develop strong loyalties to them, buy them, and believe in their superiority. The brand is shorthand. It stands for something.” (Wheeler, 2006). Definition of Face; noun 1)a beautiful face: countenance, physiognomy , features, profile, 2)her face grew sad: expression, look, appearance, countenance (Oxford Paperback Dictionary and Thesaurus; Second Edition, 2007) From an aesthetics point of view, beauty is often initially associated with the face. However, the face is also the source of practicality, with the ability to create expression, convey feeling and is the part of the body which encompasses 4 out of the 5 senses: taste, touch, smell and vision. These connotations behind the word ‘Face’ suggest that it is the ideal name for a conceptual beauty store, which encompasses various senses. The use of the word ‘Face’ will also work well within different marketing strategies. Face will be a luxury, conceptual brand. It will not only house some of the biggest names in the luxury cosmetics market, but it will entice and engage it’s customers, creating a connection with them through the various senses, all in an ultra relaxing retail arena, as well as educating them on beauty, cosmetics and available products. The Mintel Beauty Retailing UK Journal (January 2011) comments on how ‘Beauty retailing is an innovative and dynamic market’. Face will not be ‘just another place to buy cosmetics’. Face will sell cosmetics, but it will also feature a wine and champagne bar and a lounge area, in which customers can sit and relax after a day of shopping and read up on the latest cosmetics news. This element of Face was agreed upon after carrying out a survey asking participants which elements they felt would help enhance their overall shopping experience. (Appendices)
As mentioned wiithin the Methodology section of this report, a survey was conducted based around the subject of Cosmetics. The chart above demonstrates some of the results obtained. From the Survey that was created, 29 participants answered 10 questions about how and which cosmetics they prefer to purchase. 89.7% of respondents said that they do purchase cosmetics and 86.2% of the 29 respondents prefer to buy cosmetics within a store environment, rather than online (Appendices). This is due to cosmetics being a product which is purchased based upon in-store trial and being able to see colours and shades that match skin-tone most appropriately. This is an aspect of shopping that cannot be easily be replaced by the convenience of internet shopping.
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In order to assist in the educating of customers in how to use the product they are purchasing, a tablet will be provided if required providing the information. From the focus group that was conducted while researching into Face, it was agreed by participants that they feel there is not enough information provided about the cosmetics that are available on the high street. Participants felt that a ‘step-by-step- guide would be of use when taking home a new make-up product. Initially those taking part in the focus group felt a leaflet would be of use. However, after discussing this issue further and it was established that all participants use smart-phones, it was then suggested that a technology approach to this issue would be more suitable. ‘Competing with retail technologies’ (Conforto) – a journal based upon a potential weakness faced by the retail industry cites that one of the issues that faces most retailers is the speed in which technologies are developing. While iPads, Apps and Social Networking will act as just some of the touch points within the brand, Face will need to ensure it stays up to date where technologies are concerned, in order to maintain it’s competitive edge. While using iPads in store, customers will engage with voice technology and facial recognition. According to an article posted on Clustalabs 1 both voice technology and facial recognition are increasingly becoming more integral elements to the retail industry. As far as Face is concerned, the use of Facial Recognition will provide customers with a secure way of accessing their customer profile. This customer profile will keep records of all previous products that particular customer has purchased, allowing them to easily re-select products, if they intend to replace favourite products.
As another method of primary research, an online survey was conducted. One of the questions posed to participants was, “In order to enhance your shopping experience, which of these elements would you potentially visit while in a cosmetics store to make your shopping trip more exciting, if any?”. Participants were given the options: • Bar Area • Restaurant • Art Installations • Art Gallery • Photography gallery • Interactive media, e.g use of iPads • Garden space • Lounge area From the results collated from this survey, 70.4% of respondents said they felt a bar area would help enhance their shopping experience. 55.6% of the respondents who took part in the survey said that a lounge area, with relevant books and magazines provided would help in making their shopping experience more of an experience. This was then closely followed by 40.7% who said that they felt the use of interactive media , for example , in store iPads, would help to enhance their overall shopping experience. (Appendices) Therefore, the results of this survey have justified the existence and creation of these experiential elements within Face. 1
www.clustalabs.com [30/03/2011]
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CHAPTER 4 COMPETITIVE MARKET
COMPETITIVE MARKET Face is a one-off shopping experience. While there may be competition from other conceptual fashion stores, there are very few Cosmetics concept stores to rival it. Face is home to a variety of luxury makeup brands, which, when combined, are housed in a way that creates an entire experience. As a whole concept, Face will have direct and indirect competition from existing established cosmetic stores and concessions within department stores. For example, Face will have direct competition from stand-alone make-up stores, such as MAC’s own stores, where they are not housed as a concession. Face will also come across indirect competition in the form of department stores such as Harvey Nichols and Selfridges, who sell luxury cosmetics brands, but who sell other products too, such a homewares, clothing and accessories, therefore diluting the threat posed to Face as a cosmetics store. The terms ‘experiential’ and ‘conceptual’ may not be at the forefront of the customer’s mind when shopping, however these are important factors when designing and developing a new store. They are, in fact elements of shopping that are placed within the customers’ subconscious. In their book, ‘Creating Experiences in the Experience Economy’, Sundbo and Darmer (2008) mention that, “Leisure is understood in the classical sense as spare time, time free from work. A leisure experience implies a qualitative dimension; it is something the customer might seek in the expectation of deriving comfort, of spending their time pleasantly without haste or hurry”. This suggests that the experience is an imperative aspect of shopping for customers using their spare time to go shopping. In this citation, Sundbo and Darmer comment on how the customer is seeking a comfortable, relaxed way of shopping, which is exactly what Face will provide. Playing up to this part of the consumer’s subconscious will help ensure that they connect more effectively with not only Face as a brand, but also with the brands that Face will house.
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CONCEPT STORES
O2 Concept Store The O2 concept store was designed with the brand in mind and everything it stands for and provides. The main theme within the concept store is interactivity. Customers are able to engage using four work stations. These include: Music, Photo, Video and Games. Surrounding these work stations are items which relate to the specific interactive media. Also within the store is a lounge area where customers are encouraged to not only sign up to O2 services, but to relax too. The lounge has a ‘woodland’ feel to it, with furniture and lighting selected specifically in order to enhance this concept.
The Corner, Berlin The Corner, which is situated on both East and West sides of Berlin, houses fashion labels such as Chloe, Lanvin and Alexander Wang. The Corner offers high-fashion presented alongside a unique shopping experience. The store offers customers a place to relax, providing electronic items, music, film, books, magazines and art. Alongside Fashion, The Corner also offers an in-house bar and restaurant area, in which customers are able to look out across onto a German Cathedral.
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COSMETICS Sephora One of Face’s direct competitors is Sephora. One of the leading cosmetics and perfume stores worldwide, Sephora was established in 1970 in France by Dominique Mandonnaud. The Sephora brand, which is currently owned by Luxury goods retailer Louis Vuitton Moet Hennesey, has staked a claim of over 280 stores in the USA and Canada alone. Sephora is regarded as one of the premiere beauty retailers due to its variety of luxury cosmetics products and interactive shopping environments. However, since there are no longer Sephora stores within London, let alone the UK, there will be very little competitive rivalry from Sephora.
Sephora have also opened ‘The Sephora Sensorium: Lucid Dreams from the Sensory World’. The sensorium is an interactive, experiential pop-up event, created in order to allow visitors to explore the emotions connected and associated with scent. The sensorium, which is based in the Meatpacking district of New York, allows visitors to be surrounded by film footage which has been inspired by custom fragrances, which are pumped throughout the room in order to create an emotional connection between the senses.
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Selfridges As a department store, Selfridges offers a truly unique shopping experience within the United Kingdom for it’s customers. Selfridges offers a variety of shopping experiences. The Oxford Street flagship store is spread out over 6 floors. Selfridges features the ‘Ultralounge’, an area in which exhibitions and events within the store can be displayed, creating an experiential feel to the store. The department store giant claims that “Retail entertainment was invented at Selfridges and now has a distinctly twenty-first century flavour” 1. With regards to cosmetics, Selfridges is renowned both nation and world-wide as housing some of the biggest names in the cosmetics industry within their beauty halls. The beauty halls themselves provide a luxurious shopping environment, making the customer feel as if they are buying into an exclusive brand.
Skinmarket LA based Cosmetics store Skinmarket has been designed as a retail arena aimed at ‘Generation Y’, providing an evnvironment where teenagers can not only buy cosmetics, but can also go and spend time with their friends in. Skinmarket has avoided the initial connotations of beauty as being a ‘girly’ concept, and instead, the store has adopted an image which is appropriate for different personalities. The store itself has been laid out differently to the traditional cosmetics retail approach. According to the website VMSD2 the Skinmarket store as being, ‘more club-like than retail’. The website then goes on to comment on the experiential side to the store, “Skinmarket features several chaired make-up stations, set up for expert demonstrations or just for messing around. Some are equipped with a sink, which really says, ‘try as many looks as you like’”.
1 2
www.selfridges.com/en/staticpage/our+heritage
www.vmsd.com/content/skinmarket
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CHAPTER 5 TARGET MARKET
TARGET MARKET In order to focus the marketing techniques and brand message so that they appropriate for the clientele for Face, a target market must be defined. This is not to say that people who do not come under the final target market umbrella will not use Face as a retail arena, but instead ensures that the final outcome is designed and developed for a niche, rather than the mass market. This is particularly important as Face will be dispensing Luxury cosmetics brands. Face will appeal to a broad range of people and will endeavour to accommodate every customer’s needs or requirements. A Mintel report entitled, ‘Cosmetic and skincare market showing slow improvements’, notes that, “Women aged 35-44 (37%) are the most frequent purchasers of colour cosmetics, as many are entering their peak earning years and may be particularly concerned about their professional appearance”.1 So while this demographic in particular may be inclined to buy more, make-up is a products used by an extensive demographic, including both men and women of all ages. This suggests that Face needs to be designed in a manner which is appropriate to suit the needs and tastes of each end of this demographic spectrum. Through a questionnaire implemented when researching for this proposal, the following responses were received. Respondents were asked if they purchased cosmetics on a regular basis. 90% of those asked said that they do buy cosmetics regularly. From the total number of respondents, 80% said that they felt comfortable when buying cosmetics. This is perhaps reflected in the following question which asked the respondents to comment on whether they prefer to purchase their cosmetics from a one-to-one advisor, or through self-selection. The response from this question showed that 90% of questionnaire respondents prefer to buy cosmetics from a trained advisor. This is perhaps due to lack of information about the product they are buying, when purchasing from a self-selection counter. These results indicate that there is a market for cosmetics, as a significant proportion of people purchase them.
1
www.mintel.com/blog/cosmetic-skincare-market-showing-slow-improvements [20/05/2011]
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CHAPTER 6 THE COSMETICS MARKET
THE COSMETICS MARKET
In such a competitive market, our high streets are overwhelmed by various outlets which sell and distribute cosmetics. This includes independent chemists which stock mass market premium brands and supermarkets who have also become a key player within the cosmetics industry. The same goes for luxury cosmetics. Most high streets and shopping centres feature at least two department stores, selling more exclusive, luxury brands and each are often placed within relatively close proximity to one another. As part of this research document, a small interview was conducted with Heather Reilly, Sales and Education Executive for Bobbi Brown about how the bigger brands within the cosmetics market choose how and where they are placed within our high-street. Firstly, Ms. Reilly was asked how Bobbi Brown decide which department stores they would want to be placed in and what criteria, if any, do the department stores need to fit. “First of all depending on the brand they have different preferred retailers that fit better from their consumer, for instance John Lewis is our best fit retailer as their customer is very similar to our customer and their values as a retailer matches ours the best. They will then look at the volume taken in a store by our sister brands to gauge if enough volume could be taken. To open a new business or (door) as we would call it we need to be confident we could make £300,000 - £400,000 in the first trading year. We need to negotiate a suitable site within the department with high visual presence as we would usually rank 1st or 2nd in a department in size of volume.” This suggests that Face must ensure its brand image is suited to the selected brands within the store, so that they would choose Face to house their brand. The brands being sold and promoted within the store must also suit the demographic Face is aimed at.
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Ms.Reilly was then asked, if there is a limit to how many stores and/or concessions Bobbi Brown would have within a certain radius. “Yes as we wouldn’t want to dilute the business and high end value of the brand we are classed as a high volume low distribution brand so we need to keep our exclusively . In cities where there is a House of Frasers and john Lewis we may go into both, for example in Glasgow, Edinburgh, Newcastle. But If the city only has one main department store we would just put one business in that department store. We don’t go into Boots or any low end high street outlets i.e. perfume store , debamhams etc.” Ms.Reilly’s comments here suggest that when choosing a location, it is imperative that Face is not placed closely to any of it’s competitors, such as large department stores. As Face will be located in London, Oxford Street for example, would not be an appropriate location for the store, as there are currently a number of department stores such as Selfridges and House of Fraser are located here already. Finally, it was asked of Ms.Reilly that, if this was the case, are there any rules or gudelines around this and if there are - are they specific to Bobbi Brown, or is it just a general rule of thumb for most Cosmetics Brands? “For Bobbi brown our rule is high Volume and low distribution so at present we have 55 doors in the UK and average £750,000 per door, with the top five doors being 1 – 3 million per door and will stay to the format, against someone like Estee Lauder who have approx 350 doors and average £300,000 per door. We will only open 2/3 doors per year if the store is right.” This information provided by Ms.Reilly suggest that, in order for a company such as Bobbi Brown to consider being placed within Face, it must be ensured that everything from the brand image to location is right, and suits all companies.
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CHAPTER 7 SOCIAL & ECONOMIC ISSUES
SOCIAL AND ECONOMIC ISSUES 2011 has seen the global and UK economy face a dip, particularly where retail is concerned. November 2011 saw the retail sales fall by 0.7% according to The Office for National Statistics.1. This statistic would suggest that the recession would prove to be a significant hindrance to the development and implementation of Face. In order to maintain, let alone improve the financial state of the United Kingdom, the circulation of money is imperative. According to the Mintel Colour Cosmetics Executive Summary (August 2011), there is set to be a steady increase in colour cosmetics sales between 2011 and 2016, with an increase of around 4% or 5%. This suggests that the economic climate over the next five years could work in Face’s favour. The same Mintel report also cites that ‘lip colour accounted for the largest share of product launches between January and April 2011’. Again, this works in Face’s favour. During times of recession ‘The Lipstick Index’ will remain integral to the improvement of the economic situation. A term coined by chairman of Estee Lauder, Leonard Lauder, ‘The Lipstick Index’ refers to the instant and accessible gratification of buying a new colour lipstick in times of financial recession. While more expensive products on the market, such as clothing or luxury treats may not sell as easily as they do during more financially stable times, the sale of smaller and more accessibly priced products such as lipsticks and lipglosses will increase.2 Another outcome of the recession in regards to Face’s implementation and success is that people are working harder and for longer, in order to survive financially. This puts extra pressure on how they with to spend their leisure time. With potential customer’s working harder in their own careers, a more relaxing shopping experience and environment is imperative, which is where the experience of shopping in Face will come into play.
1
www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-16194154 [15/12/2011]
2
www.economist.com/node/12998233 [23/01/2009]
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CHAPTER 8 OUTCOME
OUTCOME Face has the ability to become a successful concept and business, as, after conducting extensive research on existing stores, it would fill a gap in the cosmetics market. While some stores such as department stores offer a large selection of different cosmetics brands, none at present are presented within an experiential retailing environment. Face will also be ahead of it’s competitors as it will provide customers with the information they require to make the most of the products they are purchasing. Research gathered from the focus group that took place suggests that the lack of information about cosmetics products is an aspect that is currently overlooked. Participants felt that this would be a key factor within encouraging them and other customers to purchase cosmetics more confidently. Another aspect of Face that was defined through the use of primary research was the fact that generally speaking, the cosmetic consumer prefers to purchase in-store rather than online. This suggest that even with internet shopping becoming more and more popular, a physical store environment would still be more appropriate for a cosmetics house. The lounge and bar area were also aspects that were decided upon through the use of Primary research, which again, will help ensure that Face is a unique luxury cosmetics shopping experience. The use of multi-channel retail support will also assist in ensuring Face’s success. While shopping online may not be entirely appropriate for every cosmetics customer, there will be a brand website. Alongside this will be the development and creation of apps, educating customers on how to use the products they are buying. Alongside this, a customer profile will be built, listing every product a customer has bought and citing the particular shade. This will mean that customers are able to easily access their shopping lists within store and to see the shades of specific products they have previously bought.
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REFERNCES
REFERENCES Books Oxford Paperback Dictionary and Thesaurus; Second Edition, 2007 Wheeler Alina (2006) Designing Brand Identity: Wiley; Second Edition Sundbo,J. and Darmer, P(2008); Creating experiences in the experience economy; Gloucester: Edwar Elgar Publications
Websites www.vmsd.com/content/skinmarket [23/03/2000] www.selfridges.com/en/staticpage/our+heritage [Date Unknown] www.mintel.com/blog/cosmetic-skincare-market-showing-slow-improvements [Date Unknown] www.theinspriationroom.com/daily/2011/sephora-sensorium-lucid-dreams-from-the-sensory-world [20/10/2011] www.luxurysociety.com/articles/2011/01/11-must-know-concept-stores-europe [06/01/2011] www.mintel.com/blog/cosmetic-skincare-market-showing-slow-improvements [20/05/2011] www.clustalabs.com [30/03/2011] www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-16194154 [15/12/2011] www.economist.com/node/12998233 [23/01/2009] Articles & Journals The Mintel Beauty Retailing UK Journal (January 2011) Conforto, Dennis A. Competing with retail technologies; Chain Store Age; Nov95, Vol. 71 Issue 11, p120
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