The Art Futures Edition

VOLUME THREE | ISSUE THREE | FREE

The Art Futures Edition Is the art world getting smaller?

Exploring the in-ux relationship between art and the internet, and discovering emerging creative hubs in sunnier climes.

Featuring Elena Arzak, the Basque chef who made food art.

There’s a coach in every watch.

Meet the GPS running watch with coaching features so dialled-in, it might know your abilities better than you do.

Forerunner 620 gives you essential running data like distance, pace and heart rate plus a touchscreen, VO2 max estimating and a recovery advisor. And when you pair 620 with HRM-Run you have access to advanced running form coaching data like cadence, vertical oscillation and ground contact time. The 620 is compatible with free training plans from Garmin Connect, which you can send to your watch, for real-time coaching.

To learn more, visit Garmin.com/ForerunnerCoach

©2014 Garmin Ltd. or its subsidiaries

Forerunner ® 620

IMAGES COURTESY OF MYARTBROKER FEATURED ON PAGE 20 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Roy Lichtenstein, Inaugral, 1977 Eve Arnold, A Thoughtful Moment, 1960 Banksy, CND Soldiers, 2005 Tracy Emin, And Then You Left Me, 1994 Lowry, Britain at Play, 1943 Andy Warhol, After the Party, 1979

Welcome to the latest issue of Kensington and Chelsea Review.

Filled with art, auction, culture and luxury, Kensington and Chelsea Review is the magazine for the rather discerning resident of the Royal Borough.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

McQueen-inspired Fashion Forward Afternoon Tea at The Kensington Hotel 109 -113 Queen’s Gate, South Kensington, London, SW7 5LR @hotelkensington LONDON

|

BRISTOL

/TheKensingtonHotel |

DUBLIN

|

CORK

|

WASHINGTON DC

Editor’s letter This e dition spans the festive perio d into 2016, a ye ar that sounds so futuristic that our 20th Centur y futuristic dystopias sound outdate d against it. With this in mind, this e dition is fo cuse d on the future, or more spe cifically the expanding present of our ar tistic world. We muse up on how the digital world will af fe ct ar t buying, and the form of ar t itself, while travelling across the world to discover the growing cre ative hubs of Mdina, Malta and Marrake ch, Moro cco.

Els ew he re in t he m a g a zine we’re t ra ve lling f ar and wid e t o find o ur pla ce in t h e s u n d u r in g t h e s e c o l d w int e r m o nt h s ( a s w e l l a s t a k in g in a s p o t o f s k i ) a n d o u r f e stive guid e will provid e a we alt h of id e as for gif ting and indulg e nce during t his festive perio d.

As alwa ys, we’d l ove t o he ar yo ur news and views o n t he b oro u gh s o ple as e d o t we et in and ke ep us p oste d at @KCReview. Here’s to 2016!

EDITOR COCO KHAN PUBLISHER Talismanic Me dia FOUNDER AND M ANAGING DIREC TOR Sid Raghava NEW BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Gre g Holmes EDITOR IN CHIEF Co co Khan EDITOR AT L ARGE Stephen Slo combe ART DIREC TOR Harriet Be dder MOTORING EDITOR Lisa Cur tiss OFFICE M ANAGER Le e Marrero CONTRIBUTORS Claire Coveney, Tani Burns, Tijana Tamburic, David Hillier, Sam Kinchin-Smith, Ruper t Parker, Sarah Jackson, Kate Weir, Holly Baxter, Karin Rus All material in Kensington and Chelsea Review is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system without prior permission of the publishers. Colour transparencies and photographs submitted for publication are sent at the owners’ risk and while every care is taken, neither the publisher nor their agents accept liability for loss or damage however caused. The publishers can accept no liability whatsoeverof nature arising out of nor in connection with the contents of this publication. Opinions expressed within the articles are not necessarily those of Kensington and Chelsea Review and any issues arising therefore should be taken up directly with the contributor.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

Contents 4. News News curated from the worlds of art, culture and intrigue 6.

The Future of Art

How has the information age transformed the world of art? We go in-depth with digital art, and meet a new digital arts brokering firm. Christie’s make their recommendations and Tamsin Reilly is this edition’s Portrait of the Artist.

Internationally, we visit Malta’s Mdina Biennale and check out the Moroccan literary award that is sparking new narratives.

22. Travel Sun and sea, ski and supper. We travel the globe to find food as art and

nature as painter in Sussex, Maldives, Thailand and Ontario.

42. Festive Guide What to buy, what to eat, and everything you need for a period

of decadence.

47. Food Restaurant reviews alongside a visit to the St. Moritz Food Festival 52. Lifestyle Local restaurants, staycation solutions and luxury driving.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

READ ALL ABOUT IT A rundown of news from the worlds of art, culture and the plain intriguing, all handpicked for the Royal Borough resident. WORDS: SID RAGHAVA CL ASSIC ST YLE MEE TS MODERN DESIGN AT CHELSEA FAIR Formerly Chelsea Antiques Fair, Art-DesignAntiques Chelsea Fair is a major four-day event which takes place in the chic surroundings of Chelsea Old Town on the fashionable King’s Road, from 17 - 20 March 2016 this upcoming Spring. The fair brings together dealers from across the UK specialising in fine quality designer pieces and collectors’ items from the past and present. ‘Today’s art and antiques buyer is not only a collector, but an interior designer, home furnisher and admirer of fine design,’ explains organiser Caroline Penman, ‘and to meet this demand, the fair has assembled specialists with stock chosen to emphasise design and authenticity whilst being affordable’. Among the exhibitors will be Hayloft Mid Century who

specialise in British and Danish furniture from the 1950’s, 60’s and 70’s, focussing on the work of Danish designers including Vodder, Juhl, Moller, Klein, Hovmand Olsen and Kofod Larsen, and British mid-century pieces by Archie Shine and Gordon Russell. Glass specialist Richard Hoppé returns with a selection of scent bottles, glass, tiles, objets d’art and vintage celebrity photographs by the renowned portrait, ballet and travel photographer, E. O. Hoppé. Art specialists include London dealer Nicholas Bagshawe with British and European Paintings, including PreRaphaelite and 20th century works by amongst others, John Singer Sargeant, George Spencer Watson and T.C.Dugdale. Public Admission is £5.00. www.penman-fairs.co.uk

NEW VENUE, SIMIL AR VIBES Works on Paper Fair has announced that it is moving to a new venue, the Royal Geographical Society in South Kensington and will be held from 11 February to the 14th. The event will use the entire ground floor of the building, including a specially built structure in the gardens.“We are delighted to have secured this prestigious venue for the Works on Paper Fair” says Fair Director Lucy Russell“We have found South Kensington to be the perfect neighbourhood for the Fair, and we believe the RGS will offer a highly attractive and characterful space for exhibitors and visitors.”The Works on Paper Fair brings together around 50 respected art dealers selling all types of art on paper, from every era. Drawings, prints, watercolours, UMOJA AND #ACCESSFEST – A BEGINNERS GUIDE UMOJA is an online travel start-up connecting disabled travellers to find accessible hotels. through a free and easy-to-use app any hotel can download and create a comprehensive access profile within 90 mins that uploads onto our website enabling people to easily search for the right, accessible hotel. Ben Musgrave and hsi business partner Yeshwant wanted to create something that would shake up the travel industry and wake it up to the needs and untapped potential of the accessible market segment. Their achievements include getting 70 hotels onboard in UK/India, creating 3 accessible India itineraries for disabled

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

travelers, being chosen by the Indian Ministry of Tourism to coordinate hospitality stakeholders towards enhancing accessibility in public places and #AccessFest. The latter is a collaboration with Lonely Planet and a key campaign improving accessibility information of hotels in 5 UK festival cities. In the UK alone, accessible travel has an untapped market potential of nearly £3 billion.

For AccessFest, they’re creating comprehensive AccessGuides, centred round UMOJA’s detailed hotel profiles, for great festival destinations.

For more information and if you would like to support AccessFest, please go to the website and check out their good work. www.umoja.in

PAGE 6

photographs and posters are shown, from Early through to Modern and Contemporary. Part of WOPF will be a first exhibition of works by Laurie Lee. After the death of the Cider with Rosie author, his wife Kathy and daughter Jessy found previously unseen paintings and sketches in a folder under his bed. Around 25 pictures from that folder will be exhibited many of which are reminiscent of artists that Lee knew, whether in the vibrant colouring of Sir Matthew Smith or the primitive stylisation of Sir Jacob Epstein, both of whom were his friends, or the early work of Lucian Freud. www.worksonpaperfair.com

SPA AND SALON NEWS

WORLD ’S FIRST MINI MOËT PHOTO BO OTH AT SELFRID GES In a world’s first, Selfridges and Moët & Chandon have created a Champagne photo booth in time for Christmas. The perfect gift this Christmas, it allows you and your friends to create personalised labels for MINI MOËT champagne bottles. Picture this, jump into the ‘studio’, pose for the perfect picture and wait five minutes till the picture prints and a Moët team member affixes it to the mini Moët bottles. Photos can either be taken in the Moët & Chandon photobooth or customers can upload their favourite photos from their smartphone. Personalised Mini Moët bottles are priced at £16.99 for Moët Impérial and £18.99 for Moët Rosé Impérial (per unit), over 18’s only.

Daniel Galvin have just opened a stunning branch in Kensington to complement their flagship Marylebone salon. It is located at Abingdon road and the hand-picked Kensington salon team includes experienced Daniel Galvin regulars such as colourists Cheryl, Lily and Casey, and stylist Bradley. All colour services are overseen by Louise Galvin who will also personally take care of her regular clients at this new home of Daniel Galvin. The exceptional styling team is headed up by Co-creative Director James Galvin and offers all the latest style interpretations of their signature touch of style and luxury. www.danielgalvin.com French skincare brand Talika have launched Eye Detox, the first two anti-dark circle treatments designed specifically for fair skin and olive to dark skin, inspired by detox techniques and made possible by extensive research. Eye Detox is stocked in Space NK stores and online at www.talika.com

www.selfridges .co.uk

A SPARKLING HISTORY Last year Wartski made headlines as the antique jewellers instrumental in identifying the long lost Third Imperial Fabergé Egg. This unique family business, centering on a small shop in the West End of London, is famous for its association with masterpieces of goldsmiths' work, antique jewellery and especially those of Carl Fabergé. A varied and sometimes eccentric group of customers have been attracted to the glittering treasures in Wartski’s stock and these have included famous artists, writers, actors, European aristocracy and royalty. Now, the MD of Wartski, Geoffrey Munn, well-known from the BBC Antiques Road Show, has marked the 150th anniversary of Wartski by writing a history of the firm. This remarkable bookis the story of Wartski’s famous transactions related in 300 pages of colourful text and many unique and remarkable illustrations.

The Chelsea Day Spa is located on both the Kings Road and Hollywood Road and offers a whole range of treatments and men’s grooming treats. With stunning design features reminiscent of a boutique hotel, it offers luxurious beauty and holistic treatments plus exclusive express and signature packages. Treatments are performed using quality, high grade salon-professional brands including Vita Liberata, Nouveau, Perron Rigot and HydroPeptide. www.thechelseadayspa.co.uk

www.wastski.com BONOBO PRESENTS OUTLIER Outlier is a new international event series to be curated by Simon Green aka Bonobo, launching Saturday 12th March 2016 at London’s Tobacco Dock. Live acts and DJs carefully handpicked

by Bonobo will play at the all-day party across multiple rooms, as well as an extended DJ set from the man himself. Other artists include Kiasmos, Lone, Throwing Snow, Trevino and Hodge.

FOR CHIT T Y CHIT T Y EYES ONLY We all know that Bond writer Ian Fleming’s much loved children’s book Chitty-Chitty-Bang-Bang was also aimed at grown-ups. The adventure story features heroes, villains and gadgets but herethe main protagonist is a magical car. Ian Fleming wrote the novel for his son Caspar but did not live to see it published before he died in August 1964. Illustrated by award-winning children’s book illustrator John Burningham, it was originally issued in three volumes by Jonathan Cape and PAGE 7

has been fascinating young boys and girls for fifty years. January 2015 was the 50th anniversary of the publication of the final volume and to mark the occasion, QueenAnne Press launched a facsimile of the original Chitty-Chitty-BangBang. The standard edition of three volumes in a slipcase is available for £125, while 50 special editions, bound in cloth with gold blocking and accompanied by a portfolio containing two prints signed and numbered by John Burningham, cost £600 each. www.queenannepress.com

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

ART 2.0 KCReview Editor COCO KHAN discovers the neon and pixelated universe of internet art, and wonders what it means for the traditional art world as we know it.

2015 was the year in which the world was set alight by the monumental sale of Picasso’s Les Femmes d’Alger. The painting, which sold for $160m at Christie’s to a private buyer, wins the title of ‘history’s most expensive art sale’—a record that is regularly broken. The value of art is on the up, and shows no sign of slowing.

The Picasso sale defeated the record set by the 2013 $142.4m sale of Francis Bacon’s Three Studies of Lucian Freud. The Bacon sale defeated the 2012 $120m sale of Edvard Munch’s The Scream…and so it goes on.

But a new form of art may change all that: internet art. This challenging new trend is taking the art world by storm, asking pertinent questions about who, if anyone, can really own a piece of art, and what it means to be entirely original?

If art is meant to epitomise the zeitgeist of its age, the emergence of this new kind of digital art was to be expected. We live in digital times, and this form reflects it; it uses software such as Photoshop instead of a paintbrush, and is inspired by the virtual world and the real world in equal measures. The work is disseminated online rather than in galleries – indeed it is this aspect that defines it as a form. Digital art is work that uses digital technologies to create it, such as using an LED screen to light your video in a certain way. Internet art is the next incarnation of this, taking those values and moving them entirely on-screen in virtual galleries. It’s important to point out this isn’t a fringe happening; the ingenuity and creativity of internet artists has been a point of interest for the established art world for some years—so much so that dedicated art sales and

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

exhibits have been set up for it.

There was Paddles ON! -- an auction and exhibition of digital art from renowned auction house Philips. It was here that the $1300 sale of a GIF occurred, a watershed moment for the form.

More recently, there was 89Plus at Serpentine Galleries in London, an exhibition focusing on digital art and the human condition of being #YoungerThanRihanna.

But the real challenge to the art world isn’t a matter of form, but industry; primarily the threat it poses to the buying and selling of art. Internet art is simple to copy, and easy to distribute – often without the original owner knowing and therefore unable to demand remuneration. It emerged organically – with creatives online riffing off each other’s ideas – so some of the most successful internet art pieces have been collaborative works.

How then, is an agent meant to sell an artist, how are they to know which share they deserve?

It’s a pivotal time for the form and for the art world, especially those dealing in contemporary art. Artists need dealers who can sell their work, and dealers need artists whose work they can sell. But for all the opacity involved in the future of this form, there are huge benefits. Arguably, it’s the most democratic kind of art; you don’t need to go to a top art school to be recruited by a dealer.

Equally, cultures who might feel uncomfortable with figurative art, can enjoy current, innovative works that more often than not is a play on colour and moving vectors than any human figure.

Much like the internet itself, the possibilities for this form, are endless.

PAGE 18

‘If art is meant to epitomise the zeitgeist of its age, the emergence of this new kind of digital art was to be expected.

We live in digital times, and this form reflects it.’

PAGE 19

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

CULTURE AT CHRISTIE’S Chairman of Christie’s South Kensington, NIC MCELHATTON returns to Kensington and Chelsea Review for Christie’s regular instalment of insight into their world of auction.

All images courtesy of Christie’s images LTD. 2015

LOT 109 CYRIL POWER (1872-1951) THE GIANT RACER linocut in colours, circa 1930, on tissue-thin Japan paper, signed, titled and numbered 21/50 in pencil, with margins, in good condition, framed Image: 276 x 192 mm., Sheet: 325 x 253 mm.

Estimate: £15,000 - 20,000

With Christmas fast approaching, if you are searching for an original gift, something a little bit different to give your nearest and dearest, I would always recommend buying an artwork. If you are new to purchasing art, editions are a great place to start – there is so much choice to suit a range of budgets. Prints and Multiples by the big brand names can be bought for much lower prices than most assume; estimates in our December auction at Christie’s South Kensington range from £500 to £25,000.

The December Prints and Multiples sale includes a broad and exciting selection of original prints, by some the most celebrated artists – there’s bound to be a work that your loved one will love to live with. The sale features everything

LOT 222 ROBERT INDIANA (B. 1928) THE AMERICAN DREAM NO. II the complete set of four screenprints in colours, 1982, on watermarked Fabriano paper, one plate signed, dated ‘82 and inscribed 1 A4 in pencil, numbered 92/100, the other three plates initialled and inscribed 1 A4 in pencil (there were also 40 artist’s proofs), co-published by Prestige Art, Ltd. and Edition Domberger, Stuttgart, the full sheets, in good condition.

Image: 610 x 610 mm., Sheet: mm. 682 x 682 mm.

(4) Estimate: £3,000 - 5,000

from satirical caricatures by James Gillray to a stunning collection of Vorticist linocuts by the famous Grosvenor School artists Sybil Andrews and Cyril Power. The sale also presents prints

by Pablo Picasso, Marc Chagall, Joan Miro, David Hockney and Francis Bacon; 3D works by Jeff Koons; screenprints by Robert Indiana, Ed Ruscha and Damien Hirst, together with etchings

by Lucian Freud and Howard Hodgkin.

Stop by Christie’s South Kensington to visit the pre-auction viewing, or visit our website to see the range on offer. Happy shopping!

10 December, Prints and Multiples, Christie’s South Kensington Pre-auction viewing 5-9 December

LOT 191 DAMIEN HIRST (B. 1965) MICKEY screenprint in colours, 2014, on wove paper, signed in pencil, numbered 54/250, published by Other Criteria, London, with their blindstamps, the full sheet, in good condition, framed.

Sheet: 875 x 700 mm.

Estimate: £18,000 - 25,000

LOT 149 DAMIEN HIRST (B. 1965) CINCHONIDINE aquatint in colour, 2004, on Hahnemühle etching paper, signed in pencil, numbered 89/145 verso (there were also 35 artist’s proofs), published by The Paragon Press, London, the full sheet, in good condition.

Sheet: 1155 x 1125 mm.

Estimate: £3,000 - 5,000

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

PAGE 10

SHORT COURSES CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS Online Weekends Daytime Evenings Bespoke training Courses for under 19s Dual city and Study abroad Art, Design, Fashion and Performance www.arts.ac.uk PAGE 11

Search: csm short courses KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

ART IN TWO CLICKS Joe and Ian Syer are the founders of MyArtBroker, an innovative new website which promises to connect buyers and sellers in an easy platform perfect for first time buyers. We caught up with the brothers to hear more.

How did MyArtBroker come about?

Ian: I’d been an art consultant in an art gallery for some time and through my regular interactions with clients, the relationships I formed with them as they built their collections, I began to notice that there were limited options for selling art outside of the auction house. I was interested in this ‘secondary market’, its dynamics and how difficult it seems to be to access. That was when the idea began to germinate, was there a way we could help art buyers and collectors buy from the secondary market, without the risk of eBay and without the exclusivity and fees of an auction house?

Over the coming months we looked at gallery spaces, following the traditional route – until we hit upon the idea of an online platform which essentially connected buyers with sellers and vice versa. One night, over a couple of glasses of red with my brother Joe, we decided to go for it – and MyArtBroker was formed.

Is the service a competition for art brokers or do you see it as a collaborative platform?

Joe: We definitely see this as a collaborative platform, particularly when it comes to supporting brokers and dealers early on in their career for example, who may not have the black book of contacts that their more established peers have built up. The MyArtBroker platform allows individuals like you or I to buy and sell art to other individuals, but it is also a great resource for dealers and brokers. If they’re looking for a particular piece for a client perhaps, it’s quite likely a MyArtBroker member may be selling that very piece of art.

At the moment it feels like it’s exclusively contemporary art, do you envision older works being available?

Joe: Indeed, we see trends in the secondary market and we respond to those trends.

Right now, we’re seeing a lot of interest in Banksy (unsurprisingly, following Dismaland this year), Stik (whose recent print release saw a huge surge in secondary market interest) and Lorenzo Quinn, a sculptor whose popularity never seems to wane. However, we’ve recently been talking to some clients who are looking to move on a Picasso collection for example, and as we grow we’ll certainly look to expand the portfolio.

Ian: The platform is curated, so for us that means constantly looking at the way the secondary market is moving, engaging with our networks, talking to our dealers, picking the brains of our contacts and importantly, listening to what our clients are telling us - if there is a demand for an artist in the secondary market, we’ll look to meet that demand through the platform.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

Can the service work for upcoming and emerging artists?

Ian: With MyArtBroker we only deal in secondary market pieces – basically this means that the piece of art itself has already been owned at least once. The owner wants to sell for a number of reasons (in the industry, we quip that it’s often Debt, Divorce or Death that forces a sale – but serious collectors are just as likely to sell to free up wall space or funds for the next big purchase by the next big artist) and so the piece becomes available on the secondary market. For that piece to sell, there has to be an ongoing demand for the artist’s work. To achieve that, the artist usually has to be established, to have made a name and a reputation that compels people to seek out available artwork. It’s unlikely, therefore, that upcoming and emerging artists can make much of an impact on the secondary market.

Joe: Unlikely, but not impossible.

What are the benefits for a beginning art collector to use this service rather than the traditional auction houses?

Joe: One of the key parts of our service is the dedicated Broker who helps you find the art you’re looking for, negotiate the price and importantly, verify its authenticity. At an auction house you won’t get this dedicated service, an expert to guide you through the process.

For example, if we have a first time buyer looking for a Warhol, we’ll connect that individual with one of our experts in the Pop Art market. They’ll seek out a piece, negotiate a deal, verify authenticity, condition check and oversee delivery. This kind of service puts our members and ease and when investing in art for the first time is an invaluable part of the experience.

Ian: Also, our fees. We take an introducer fee, the cost of our time to connect the buyers with the sellers. In much the same way that Uber take 10-20% on each cab ride, we take 12.5% from our members per deal concluded. Compare this to an auction house, whose fees can go up to 30% and you can see why we have so many of our members come back again and again.

How do you see the role of the internet impacting art purchasing in the next few years?

Ian: It’s already essential to the industry.

Just look at Sotheby’s partnering with eBay and the success of sites like Paddle8 - it’s opening up art like never before. You don’t need to be part of a privileged elite to be ‘in the know’ about art anymore - with online platforms like ours, you can tap into the industry at the touch of a button and like never before a Banksy is in reach.

Don’t get me wrong, there will always be a place PAGE 20

for a gallery – the experience of art is unparalleled and not easily replicated online, but art buyers are changing and platforms like ours cater for that.

Joe: Recent figures suggest that the global online art industry is worth $2.64 billion!

That will grow over the next five years, as trust in the online marketplaces grow, as the major players refine their strategies and as social media plays a bigger role in cultivating art buyers and influencing purchase decisions we’re only going to see growth. I predict Instagram stars of the future will be art collectors!

Ian: It’s all to play for right now, this year saw a couple mergers and acquisitions in the space, the jostling for position will continue and that can only benefit the art collectors. We’re in a unique territory occupying both the online art buying space whilst simultaneously being part of that ‘sharing economy’ - the connection of users with providers. Like Air BnB and Uber, we don’t hold stock, we don’t own art, we match those that have with those that want.

What is the biggest sale you’ve made through the service?

Joe: This year, the largest single sale to take place between our members was a Banksy, Girl With Balloon diptych, edition of 25, which sold well over six figures. Though, we’ve some longterm members who have used our platform for many years to build their collections, investing considerably more.

What are the most recognisable, interesting and high profile sales through the service?

Ian: We’ve recently taken on a very high profile film director as a platform member, at the moment they are purchasing works by Sir Peter Blake, with plans to expand their collection in the future.

What has been your own most memorable purchase?

Joe: Individually, we dabble a little in collecting art. Personally, I appreciate urban art and have built a modest private inventory over the years this includes rare works by Andy Warhol, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring and of course Banksy.

If you had any advice for first time art buyers, what would it be?

Joe: Buy what you like, do your research, take advice, check the provenance.

Ian: Visit MyArtBroker!

For more information visit: www.myartbroker.co.uk

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Roy Lichtenstein, Inaugral, 1977 Eve Arnold, A Thoughtful Moment, 1960 Banksy, CND Soldiers, 2005 Tracy Emin, And Then You Left Me, 1994 Lowry, Britain at Play, 1943 Andy Warhol, After the Party, 1979 Images courtesy of MyArtBroker

PORTRAIT OF THE ARTIST: TAMSIN RELLY Writer CLAIRE COVENEY chats with Tamsin Relly about the fragile relationship between ecology and climate change, everyday life, and the exploitation of the planet.

Tamsin Relly is a London based artist whose practice includes painting, printing and drawing.

South African born, she moved to London in 2009, though her research demands her to visit diverse locations around the world, from the receding glaciers in the Arctic Circle, to the drought-ridden landscape of Nevada in Southwest America.

Last year you took part in an expeditionary residency on a tall ship in the High Arctic where you were able to walk, and work amongst the rapidly changing landscape.

What was this experience like, and how is it influencing your current practice?

It was a journey that brought me to my knees in awe every day. I wanted to draw, photograph, film, write and be still – all at once, and all of the time.

If only I could have stayed awake 24 hours a day!

Before putting my head to much creativity though there were practical things to adapt to: the cold, the routine, safety, and the intensity of actually living in a very small space with a relatively large gang of artists and writers.

The trip left me overwhelmed by what I had seen and the need to respond to it, and with a deep grief about how as a species we are treating this extraordinary planet. When a glacier calves the ice that falls is spellbinding.

Resting on the water-surface, the fragments looked like giant ancient crystals. They would stream past our boat for hours, to land on another shoreline and stand like glass sculptures – for days or weeks I presume – slowly shifting shape.

Up close, you can see rivers of dust and tiny flecks of rocks caught within the ice for hundreds or thousands of years.

The residency gave me an opportunity to continue my exploration of taking processes that are typically studio bound into the field, as well as making work as a direct response to the physical experience. I worked with monotypes (unique water colour prints) which proved challenging, as they would freeze in the cold and then melt and reshape back in the warmth of the boat - but I enjoy things that disrupt a creative process in this way. I also created ‘motion drawings’ where, like a seismograph, I recorded the motion of the ship

in a snowstorm.

I find that subject matter often dictates the medium that I work with. This project has encouraged me to diversify into photography and video, and I have begun using more scientific data in my process.

Indeed, you can see from your work that process is very important to you; is it necessary for you to visit these places and see the impact that man is having on the planet first-hand in order to gauge how you’re going to approach a subject matter?

Drawing from direct experience has always been my preference, and was easy enough with my earlier work, which tended to be more autobiographical or localized. As my focus shifted to broader global concerns however, I became dependent on sourcing reference material from the media, documentaries or other second hand reports. This research is still important, but every story is multifaceted, and you risk being left with a one-dimensional view of things.

So when possible, nothing really substitutes first-hand exploration.

I am privileged to have been able to travel so far north. The landscape feels timeless and infinite when you’re there – yet the reality of its vulnerability was with me constantly.

We saw glaciers calving – which is what ice and glaciers do, and some seasonal fluctuation in size is expected, but when you study the maps of the coastline, the acceleration of their overall retreat is staggering; and you feel it, standing on land that has only been exposed in the last ten or twenty years – some of which has not even been mapped yet. The impact that we’ve had on our environment in such a brief moment of relative time is beyond comprehension and so disproportionate to the length of our civilizations’ existence.

You were born in South Africa and have visited and worked in many areas around the globe, but you have decided to make London your home; what is it about the city that keeps drawing you back?

It seems life sometimes makes plans for you behind your back! I certainly wasn’t intending to leave Cape Town for good when I caught that January flight seven years ago, but a few months away turned into a year, which turned into several more, and I was officially hooked.

I did my MA in fine art at City & Guilds of London Art School in 2011, and this gave me an exquisite art network and community. So many opportunities have rolled on from this, and I will be forever grateful for my time there.

London - with its wonderful combination of glamour and grit - offers infinite inspiration in terms of art making and curation. It feels engaged in global geo-politics in a way that I think is important for my work right now.

I do miss Cape Town; I miss being able to jump in the ocean twice a day and still get a full days work done in between, and the friendships that I treasure, but it makes sense for me to be here right now. Every day still feels like an adventure.

What are you up to over the coming months?

I have recently returned from a ‘follow-up’ residency with seven of my Arctic shipmates in New York, supported by The Rockefeller Brothers Fund. We used the time to develop ideas for a collaborative exhibition based on our shared experience, which we hope to show in both New York and London.

I’m also taking part in ‘Whispers’, an exhibition that runs from 11th December 2015 at the Ronchini Gallery in Mayfair, as well as starting a new body of work that explores the intricate patterns and conservation of the coral reef.

Tamsin Relly exhibits at Mayfair’s Ronchini Gallery from 11th December; 22 Dering St, London W1S 1AN; 020 7629 9188 www.tamsinrelly.com/

“London - with its wonderful combination of glamour and grit offers infinite inspiration in terms of art making and curation. It feels engaged in global geo-politics in a way that I think is important for my work right now.”

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

PAGE 8

PAGE 9

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

‘A short drive from Valletta, high on a hilltop, looms the famous medieval, walled citadel of Mdina, Malta’s ancient capital. Its medieval battlements face down to the valleys below, rising upwards and peaking at the dome of the magnificent Cathedral of St Paul.’

THE MALTESE TRADITION The idyllic island of Malta is changing, and investing heavily in its arts and culture industries. Ahead of the first Mdina Cathedral Contemporary Art Biennale, Tani Burns and Andrew Hancock - founders of ARTNAKED, a London based arts consultancy who partnered with the Biennale - explain why Malta is rapidly positioning itself as one of Europe’s great art capitals.

‘Jewel of the Mediterranean’ and, no doubt, an increasingly coveted destination in the travellers’ bucket list. Recently host to CHOGM 2015, the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting, Malta presented itself anew to HRH Queen Elizabeth and the Duke of York, who together revisited the setting for their honeymoon in St Paul’s Bay. Heads of State from throughout the Commonwealth gathered to build bridges of cooperation on an island that has served throughout history as a bridge between North Africa and Europe. In October 2016, Valletta plays host again, this time to the 7th World Summit on Arts and Culture, under the theme “At the crossroads?

Cultural Leadership in the 21st Century”.

The depth of Malta’s rich heritage is well-known – written into its architecture and very infrastructure. Moorish structures sit side-by-side with those from the Baroque, Rococo and even neoclassical periods – and the prominence of the church as a social bedrock is evident in the decorated cathedrals and glittering altars established in those earlier periods.

The position of the artist, as was the case in many Mediterranean countries was dictated by this fact, around the 16th-17th Centuries – a time when the Church was searching for a stylistic alternative to Mannerism in religious art that was tasked to counter the threat of Protestantism. No better example can be given that that of Caravaggio, whose painting ‘The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist’ was completed in 1608, commissioned by the Knights of Malta as an altarpiece which still hangs in the Cathedral of St John in the heart of Malta’s capital city, Valletta.

But the country has not been well-known in the past for its contemporary art scene. This is changing, and in 2015 Malta’s Culture Budget saw an increase of 25%, from €30 million to €46 million. Spurred on by the announcement that, in 2018, Valletta will be taking on the title of European Capital of Culture, developments in the cultural and artistic infrastructure of the island are going into overdrive, with regeneration projects giving a new lease of life to historic neighbourhoods and buildings – within a fresh and exciting new contemporary scene. Focal advances in the lead up to ‘V18’ include the Valletta Design Cluster, a first-of-its-kind initiative which will be established at the Old Abattoir site, Strait Street (which will soon become a brand name of art, culture and entertainment for the region) and MUŻA,

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

Malta’s new museum of art and a flagship project for the V18 project.

In light of these broader cultural developments, Malta’s annual festivals are garnering significant international attention. The Malta Jazz Festival celebrated its 25th year in the summer of 2015, and the Valletta Film Festival will return again in 2016 following the success of its inaugural edition in June. Presenting emerging and established talent in the world of cinema, VFF also offers a global perspective, in sections such as ‘Without Borders’ – focused on Scandinavia in 2015, and in 2016, the cinema of the Middle East.

2016 also sees a new strand of Art Film, co-curated by ARTNAKED and the VFF Directors.

A short drive from Valletta, high on a hilltop, looms the famous medieval, walled citadel of Mdina, Malta’s ancient capital. Its medieval battlements face down to the valleys below, rising upwards and peaking at the dome of the magnificent Cathedral of St Paul. This is the scene of a new, exquisitely curated contemporary art biennale, the Mdina Cathedral Biennale of Contemporary Art, which launched this November and runs until January.

Set against the extraordinary backdrop of the city’s baroque architecture – evident throughout its winding streets, palazzos, chapels and, of course, St. Paul’s Cathedral – it has enabled already a stimulating modern environment, in which works of art by artists from diverse cultural backgrounds are displayed together under one central theme: ‘Christianity, Spirituality and the Other’. The thematic approach is profoundly important, playing a central role in the overarching conception of the Artistic Director, Dr. Giuseppe Schembri Bonaci (simultaneously the Artistic Director of Strait Street) – to establish the Mdina Cathedral Contemporary Art Biennale as a spiritual space of and for creativity. Against the backdrop of the city’s barque splendour and its silent cobbled streets (Mdina being ‘The Silent City’), the Biennale is unlike anything Malta has seen to date. Fired up by the enormous growing interest in the cultural life of the country, the Biennale is drawing the best international art and attention to the island, as well as providing a platform on which Maltese artists can develop their work and concepts within the global context of the international contemporary art scene.

International works represent an impressive roster of artists including PAGE 12

Adam Dix artwork installation view in the Mdina Cathedral Museum. Image courtesy ARTNAKED

Adam Chang, Natala & Valerya Cherkashin, Vincent Come, Bernard Cousinier, Michael von Cube, Philippe Desloubieres, Adam Dix, Andrew Hancock, James Alec Hardy, Christian Jaccard, Lena Lapschina, Kacha Legrand, Valera Loredana Longo, Frederique Lucien, Patrice Pantin, Denis Pondruel, Gildas Le Reste and Richard Shields. Nobel-winning playwright and pronounced atheist Dario Fo has also visited Malta to exhibit some of his latest theatrical and visual work as part of the Biennale, with an exhibition about St Francis of Assisi. From the small and exquisite Chapel of St Peter in Chains, along the cobbled streets, through the great halls of the Cathedral and its underground vaults, into the sacristy of St Paul’s Cathedral and right up to its high altar, international contemporary art is in constant dialogue with the city, its history and its spirituality.

We at ARTNAKED are proud to have played a part in the first Mdina Biennale, and we look forward to the next instalment in 2017, which will lead directly into V18. As Creative Sponsors at the birth of this exciting addition to the contemporary art landscape, we have presented a careful selection of artists from the UK and internationally, chosen for their ability to respond intelligently and essentially to the theme, as well as deep knowledge of their long-standing artistic development: Adam Dix, Madeleine Fenwick, Andrew Hancock and Richard Shields (UK); Sergei Isakov (Russia); and Lena Lapschina (Austria).

We brought a small but well selected group of artists to Mdina, and hope that alongside the other artists being exhibited we can allow a Maltese audience and more international art-lovers a deep, rich and exciting contemporary art viewing experience. Given the strong and inimitable expression of faith on the island, our selection of artists was completely singular to this occasion.

Richard Shields, a Manchester-based artist, presents for the first time The Madonna in the Blue, created following his first visit to Malta in early 2015 and made using chalk dust on baize pool tables. Andrew Hancock, co-founder of ARTNAKED and practising artist (featured in the K&C Review in 2012), also created several new conceptual abstract paintings for the biennale in his studio in Malta, integrating into his work the very fabric of the island – its raw materials, limestone dust, chalk and found objects –

he incorporates, along with the spirit, the inextricable bodily existence of the land.

“Malta to me has been a lifelong family home and spiritual retreat” says Andrew Hancock, co-founder of ARTNAKED. “Being privileged in the making of these new artworks for the Cathedral Biennale, I am symbolically acting out ritual observances that stem from profound Catholic traditions in addition to certain art historical and theological ideas and practices. I am painting as part of a real pilgrimage and in my own manner making art as a religious obedience.”

As the cultural and luxury markets of the Maltese islands develop alongside one another, the Mdina Cathedral Contemporary Art Biennale stands in position to flourish, growing in prestige and attention year on year.

From the heart of the citadel, the 5-star boutique hotel Xara Palace Relais & Châteaux upholds the potential for Mdina to become a real centre of cultural and luxury life across the island, with its restaurant The de Mondion gunning to take the country’s first Michelin Star. Other restaurants in the vicinity, such as The Medina (judged Best Restaurant Overall in Malta in 2015), set in an original Norman residence amongst the honeycombed streets of Mdina, truly set the standard and are becoming destination establishments for lovers of gourmet.

From this ancient settlement from its high vantage point, you can look down and across the island as its inhabitants have done for over 6000 years – but, now, with a new perspective. Malta’s modern cities, Sliema, St Julian’s, Mosta, and Valletta, have opened up fully to the international world, with much to offer culturally and artistically as it braces itself for a greater role at the crossroads of the Mediterranean.

The Mdina Cathedral Contemporary Art Biennale, with APS Bank as Main Partner, runs until 7 January 2016. For more information visit http://www.mdinabiennale.org/.

For information on arts curatorial and programming organisation, ARTNAKED visit www.artnaked.co.uk

PAGE 13

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

50 SHADES OF OCHRE La Mamounia, owned by the King of Morocco, is an oasis of luxury and serenity, of dimly lit opulent rooms and ancient gardens—hardly a likely place to court controversy. Yet their Literary Awards for the sixth year running have caused quite the stir, as a tale of nymphomania triumphs. Travel writer TIJANA TAMBURIC explores the Red City.

Marrakech is known as the Red City or Ochre City because all the buildings have to be painted ochre red by law as it’s the easiest colour to look at in the bright sun. It is this colour that greets you as you arrive to the sublime La Mamounia, followed by its subtle yet distinctive signature amber scent.

It’s not hard to see why Condé Nast awarded it the title of Best Hotel in the World 2015. It’s palatial, vivid and indulgent; like stepping into honey.

But what makes it so interesting is its continued patronage of arts and culture, exemplified by the La Mamounia Literary Awards, which aim to encourage and promote francophone Moroccan literature. This September they held the sixth annual instalment of the prestigious award. The jury, comprised of seven internationally renowned writers, had to choose between a shortlist of five books by Moroccan writers published in French over the past year. The winner received 200,000 MAD (the equivalent of €18,000).

The jury could choose something cliché; a social and political drama set in one of Morocco’s 700 riads, a story of cultural displacement, a dichotomy of secular versus religious or modern versus traditional life, in other words a undoubtedly well-written tale but nothing to shake the hundred-year-old olive trees or cause ripples in the chlorine-free, mosaic-tiled pools. Yet, since it’s inception, ‘predictable’ has not been a word associated with the award.

In the second year of the festival’s existence the winning book’s author was awarded posthumously as he sadly died prior to the awards.

Two years ago the subject of the novel was homosexuality, which is still illegal in Morocco. This year’s winner did not disappoint. Leïla Slimani, a beautiful young Moroccan writer, was not only the first female to ever win the award but her protagonist, Adele, is a Parisian sex-addict.

Since the 50 Shades of Grey boom, it seems as though writers have been jumping on the sexual narrative bandwagon, but this is not that new, it’s been a narrative base since Madame Bovary got bored at home.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

What truly makes Leïla’s book Dans le Jardin de L’ogre (In the Ogre’s Garden) controversial is that no erotic novel by a female has ever won a literary award in the Islamic world.

Adele and Richard appear to be a happy couple. She’s a journalist, he’s a doctor, and, together, they raise a little boy in their beautiful Parisian apartment. Taking advantage of the freedom she has to do whatever she wants with her time, she looks for opportunities to meet men. Left to her own obsessions, Adele determinedly progresses towards a life of bleak loneliness, extremely depraved sexual encounters and even great danger.

However, Richard uncovers the truth. First blinded by rage and grief, he overcomes the urge to leave Adele, and tries to bring her back to him.

In the Ogre’s Garden is a dizzy tale of a person on a quest for absolute truth.

Leila Slimani’s precise, raw writing rends open poetic breaches that get more and more emotional, and fleshes out the mysterious silhouette of a female character that is at once timeless and totally modern.

Many were surprised that a more obviously ‘Moroccan’ work was not chosen, but the fact that Adele is French and lives in Paris is “wonderful” according to judge Douglas Kennedy, author of twelve published and internationally acclaimed works; “Every real writer has to escape their own culture, and we commend that. The winner should not simply be a native informant but a Moroccan writer.”

But controversy it not the reason why it won. As Christine Orban, French novelist, playwright, lyricist and president of the jury for the fourth consecutive year, said, “There are innumerable good stories but what makes great literature is the style and the editing.” Fellow judge Vincent Engels, a Belgian writer and professor of contemporary literature and history, added that, “a great writer will show and not tell; make the reader feel something without explaining it.” Mohammed Nedali, judge and previous winner,

PAGE 16

Photos: Tijana Tamburic

corroborates that, “style distinguishes a great author from a good one and Leïla’s writing has a very mature and intellectual style.”

Further to her great masterly of language and the quality of her writing style, Leïla’s deep rooted themes were of great interest to Douglas Kennedy.

“Addiction but also boredom. Boredom is such a huge subject and it’s everywhere - it’s interesting how different people find their own melodrama.

Sex is also a form of identity and personal definition. There is a very strong perception of someone trying to define themselves through addiction in this book. An internal modus vivendi. Leïla doesn’t try to analyse or give moral life lessons; she doesn’t sensationalise the sexual experiences, just retells them as facts. It’s more like American Psycho than 50 Shades of Grey.”

Leïla herself is poised, self-confident, knowledgeable. She explains that the idea for the novel came about after her noticing how many stories there were on the news about men suffering from sex addiction, so she wanted to balance out the discussion. She read psychiatry books and went on forums that sex addicts use. Leïla is part of a generation of empowered female writers, that includes the likes of Elif Safak, who are causing controversy in the Islamic world.

I can’t help but wonder why La Mamounia’s Literary Award continuously courts controversy. It lights a spark in my otherwise dim and dream-like memories there. It’s this genuine and palpable interest in culture and literature, the fight to choose what is best and not what is expected, its integrity, personality and style, is what sets La Mamounia apart. To twist Christine’s words; there are innumerable good hotels but what makes a great hotel is its style and editing.

“... it seems as though writers have been jumping on the sexual narrative bandwagon, but this is not that new, it’s been a narrative base since Madame Bovary got bored at home.”

www.mamounia.com PAGE 17

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

MEMBERS ONLY How did you wind up being a partner at the infamous Raffles, known as the most controversial nightclub that no one can enter?

I've been in this game now for 20 years. I started when I was 18 when I worked in Mayfair. I then worked at a place called The Stork Rooms with Marco Pierre White and Pierce Adams for about 8 months. We had an amazing time - we hosted Paris Hilton’s 21st birthday party. Then, I was asked by one of the owners of Boujis to take a look at a site in South Kensington. Everyone said “you're mad!” and “you can't do a bottle service or a VIP club in Chelsea because all of the clubs are in the West End”.

We totally changed that ethos.

After Boujis, I went to Morton's and was reminded of how great it was to be in Mayfair. Then, one day I walked into Raffles with a friend in February 2014, and I really thought I could do something with it. It's on the Kings Road, and it's the only club in London that has the license to operate from 10pm to 5am. Most clubs are open from 10pm until 3am so we have those two additional hours of business. So we're kind of a club and an after-hours place as well. People start leaving other clubs and come for us for last drinks and whatever. I think the great thing about Raffles is that it has been around since 1967. It's one of the only clubs the Queen has ever been to.

Ahead of their 50th anniversary, KCReview Editor COCO KHAN sits down with Jake Parkinson-Smith, the boss of renowned Chelsea haunt Raffles.

And you plan to stay at Raffles for the foreseeable future?

Absolutely. Raffles is everything I've wanted to have at a nightclub.

Everyone who lives in London has been to Raffles at least once, whether they remember they've been there or not.

‘The great thing about Raffles is that it has been around since 1967. It’s one of the only clubs the Queen has ever been to.’

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

Have you suffered any negative press with the more outward facing Chelsea image? Has the programme "Made in Chelsea" any effect?

Kensington and Chelsea has always been made up of fun loving people who lived here or grew up here. Sometimes they don't come across as well as they should in the shows, but if you meet them in real life they're lovely people.

What is so special about the Chelsea club?

I think we've created a place that people like to go with all the elements of amazing service, great music, and great staff. Essentially, the classic Cheers thing, "A place where everybody knows your name". People want a place that they feel at home in and feel a part of. I think we've all been to nightclubs in this world where you're made to feel lucky that you're sitting in this club. That's the biggest sin for any club because nobody's more important than your clients.

PAGE 14

You are the only partner in Raffles whose identity is known to the public. How do you find being the face of the brand?

Fantastic, so far so good. I suppose it's a role that some people wouldn't want to do but in this industry you have to be a people person. To understand people you have to read people, you have to acknowledge what people want and I've always been able to do that What is the next big innovation we can expect from members clubs?

Tech is changing our perspective on how we do things - making things easier -such as utilizing social media tools to pay bills, gain entry, split bills, and organize your night. If someone told you three or five years ago that you would order your taxi with a hit of a button on your phone you would say “no way! Because all I do is put my hand up”. Yet, here we are. I just have to look at my phone, press a button and a car is outside in three minutes.

How are Raffles developing their tech?

The whole reason why Raffles works is because there's an intensely personal element to it. If somebody wants to come to the club they contact myself and book a table, or if they want to send one of their friends down for their birthday they speak to me. So it's always a personal interaction and that's the conundrum: how is the tech going to become personal?

I'm being approached twice weekly by entrepreneurs with different apps: bill splitting apps, priority entry apps, guest list booking apps, table booking apps. It's all very fascinating and moving fast. There's a lot of money being pumped into it, but I don't see it as quite right yet. It has to be tweaked.

P UUP OROR THTH HHEE ININGG ING AUAU TT LLLL T OFOFTSTSEE PPLLIITT SES SS BEB ECE&& ROCR VIOV DID

When you join Raffles, does it provide international access to your other clubs?

That is exactly what we're going to do. To get the value out of the membership we want to include it into all of our properties. So whether someone is in London, Marbella, Miami or Dubai they can really look at Raffles as a place to go and find people that they know and recognize.

This Morning. but every morning.

Notjust just Not ThisMorning...

Morning...

This butevery every but morning. morning.

NEW: Stowe Family Law’s wills and probate service NEW: is now available Stowe Family at our Central NEW: Law’s wills and London office.

Stowe Family probate service

Law’s wills and is now available probate service at our Central office. isLondon now available Marilyn Stowe is the senior at ourpartner Centralat office. for Stowe Family Law andLondon is also known

Can I ask you a very boring question, how many hours a week do you work?

I don't know as I really haven't thought about it. People wonder how I go to bed at four or five in the morning so frequently, and I say that's because I'm used to it and I enjoy it. I have a lot of passion for what I do since it's a very interesting job. It's never the same. It's like theatre - it's different every night Leading her handpicked team of talented lawyers at the UK’ with a unique audience every night. Obviously we plan very well for every largest specialist family law firm, Marilyn has handled more occurrence, but you just never know what could happen, especially when 12,000 cases over her 30-year career. you have alcohol involved, That twists it back on its head and somersaults than Leading herdivorce handpicked team of talented lawyers at the UK’s it into a totally different dimension. Human beings with alcohol are very largest specialist family law firm, Marilyn has handled more different. I stopped drinking two years ago, I think in this industry you really than 12,000 divorce cases over her 30-year career. can't drink. I stopped drinking and I'm very healthy now. When I was younger it was very easy to drink and enjoy it, but as you get older the combination of Leading her handpicked team talented at the UK’s “Regarded as one ofofthe mostlawyers formidable drinking and working does not work at all.

herMarilyn ‘Divorce Clinic’ ITV’spartner This Morning.

Stowe is theon senior at Stowe Family Law and is also known for her ‘Divorce Clinic’ on ITV’s This Morning.

Marilyn Stowe is the senior partner at Stowe Family Law and is also known for “Regarded as one the This mostMorning. formidable her ‘Divorce Clinic’ onofITV’s

and sought-after divorce lawyers in the UK.”

largest specialist family lawdivorce firm, Marilyn has handled Theand Times sought-after lawyers in the more UK.”

You have worked the top clubs in London. Do you think that would than 12,000 divorce cases over her 30-year career. have been possible earlier in your career if you had stopped drinking The Times sooner?

“A friend gave me the firm’s telephone Definitely, I had a well-documented early career and made some bad mistakes which I regret, but I wouldn't change them because they've taught number and said Marilyn was brilliant. me many life lessons. I think the people who survive this industry are the What an understatement!” ones who don't drink and party like they did in their 20's. I think there has to The Former Times client be a point where you have to say stop because no matter how big of a rock Former client star you think you are it will always be you at some point. The people who do well in this industry don't drink. I think that's very important because it's If you need family early support be essential. there on tap - pun intended.

If you need familylaw law advice, advice, early support cancan be essential.

“A friend gave me the firm’s telephone number as and said Marilyn brilliant.

“Regarded one of the mostwas formidable What an understatement!” and sought-after divorce lawyers in the UK.”

How do you relax?

I work out a lot. It's so different it's hilarious. Waking up with a hangover feeling like death every Monday is not something I miss. I'm 38 now and I'm in the best shape of my life.

“A friend gave me the firm’s telephone number and said Marilyn was brilliant.

Stowe Family Law help.

Stowe Family Lawcan can help.

What an understatement!”

Former clientinformation contact more ForFor more information contact enquiries@stowefamilylaw.co.uk enquiries@stowefamilylaw.co.uk or call 020 7421 3300 or call 020 7421law 3300 If you need family advice, early support can be essential.

Chelsea is an area that has changed hugely in the last ten years, have Central London Office Stowe Family Law can help.

Central London Office you found any challenges?

8 Fulwood Place, Gray’s Inn, [Parkinson-Smith laughs] Chelsea is an amazing place to work in, I love it.

London WC1V 8 Fulwood Place,6HG Gray’s Inn, London WC1V 6HG contact www.stowefamilylaw.co.uk For more information KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW www.marilynstowe.co.uk enquiries@stowefamilylaw.co.uk www.stowefamilylaw.co.uk orwww.marilynstowe.co.uk call 020 7421 3300

THE GOLDEN TOUCH STEPHEN SLOCOMBE takes a three-stop luxury tour around Thailand with East Asian hotelier Banyan Tree.

Thailand is currently experiencing a luxury tourism boom, as the country shakes off its reputation as a backpackers’ delight. With its blend of chaotic urban environs and sweeping natural beauty it’s no surprise to see it being championed by the planet’s premium brands, and at the forefront of these is Banyan Tree; a relatively local company that has resorts and hotels in Thailand, Indonesia, The Maldives and the Seychelles.

This local knowledge is evident from the start, and from the second we ar-rive in the slickly modern surroundings of the Banyan Tree Bangkok it’s clear why Thailand self-styles itself as ‘The Land Of A Thousand Smiles’.

Even if it wasn’t 30 degrees outside, the genuine warmth of their hospitality would en-sure that we’d be kept toasty throughout (thankfully it is 30 degrees, so those lovely big smiles are just a never ending bonus).

The hotel itself stands 61 stories, at the peak of which is the informal Moon Bar, where drinking in the incredible twinkling view is (almost) as good as drinking in the one of their house special Vertigo Sunset cocktails.

We take it relatively easy on the plonk though, as the next morning we ven-ture out to the one of the area’s many floating markets which, as a man used to the terrafirma bustle of London’s Borough and Broadway Markets, is a unique experience. As we bounce between out piloted, four feet wide boats, we’re offered the very best of local Thai food and produce, though any attempt at haggling is laughed/pushed away.

Our water bound adventures don’t stop here, as a night time river cruise chugs us down the Chao Phraya River and bequeathes a view of Bangkok that truly steals the breath. The shrines lining the riverbank twinkled yellow, red and orange under fluorescent moonlight, and feels like the perfect confluence of new and old.

Bangkok by day is also a city experience like little else, and to call it organised chaos might well be doing it a favour. It’s a true cornucopia of sights and smells, with senses tingled on every corner by sizzling, bubbling street food stalls. There’s something to see - and someone to watch - on

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

every corner, though I don’t think it would be perceived as an insult were I to say it’s a relief to get back to the air-conditioned oasis of the hotel.

The next stops on our tour could not have been more different, as we dive head first into the lap of uber luxury. A 90 minute fight lands us in Phuket International Airport, and within an hour we are nestled with refreshments in the Banyan Tree Cafe that overlooks the hotel’s golf course.

All rooms at the Banyan Tree Phuket are detached villas, and dotted round the dappling Laguna Phuket. In amongst the verdant vegetations are palm trees and multi-hued, pungent fauna. I watch a tiny jade and green bird flut-ter round a tropical orchid and realise I am a very, very, long way from home.

This observation is drilled home further when I arrive into my villa, which with its own pool, opulent King sized bed and decor that combines the traditional (Thai landscape paintings behind the bed) with the modern (Ipod docking station and the ubiquitous jacuzzi tub which you can, if you wish, have staff draw for you and litter with smelling salts and flower petals).

At the door stands two bicycles with which to make our way around the grounds- ensuring that we are getting at least some exercise each day.

Those few turns on the push bike are most welcome considering the quality of the food we consume whilst on site. Our second night sees us eat al fresco at Tamarind, where chef Shiraishi Kikuo creates authentic Japanese cuisine, and from start to finish it is culinary art. I can wholeheartedly recommend salmon belly in sweet soy sauce, but everything we tried was a treat. Combine this meal with the 90 minute rejuvenating body massage I had earlier in the day, and it’s fair to say that by the time I sunk in to bed I’d alighted in a mindspace I’ve since come to call ‘Maximo Relaximo’. It’s a pretty good place to be. You should try it.

The next day we make the hour long flight to Banyan Tree’s Koh Samui re-sort, which if possible ratchets up the luxury even further. From my bed I can look down over the ripples of my own infinity pool, down into the teal blue

PAGE 22

bay beyond that, with rugged, lush tress providing the most natural form of fencing to ensure total privacy is guaranteed.

After a dinner at the resort’s flagship Saffron restaurant that bestows authentic Thai, the next day I take a private boat trip to the Ang Thong National Marine Park. Aung Thong is a 42 island archipelago, which is home to over 54 species of bird, monkeys, langurs and a phantasmagoric array of marine life.

The latter I get to see up close when I go scuba diving, and the waters are gratifyingly full of twinkling sea creatures of every size. So brimful are there - packed in, literally, like sardines - me and my partner jokingly consider whether Banyan Tree have come up ahead and planted them there for us.

Obviously we know they haven’t, but the fact it’s come up is indicative of the resorts’ dedication to a super personalised service. They are truly there for your every whim, whether that’s a villa BBQ, moonlit bonfire or a private boat hire. This outlook ensures every minute I have stayed at each of these three resorts is an exercise in self-serving relaxation. I’m allowed to put myself in the driving seat, and damn have I earned it. Safe to say I traveled home with a smile as wide as theirs.

Best at Travel (www.bestattravel.co.uk / 0203 553 0750 ) is offering two nights at Banyan Tree Bangkok in a Deluxe Room, two nights at Banyan Tree Phuket in a Deluxe Villa and two nights at Ban-yan Tree Samui in a Deluxe Pool Villa from £1,369 per person on a bed and breakfast basis. Prices includes return flights from London with EVA Air and internal flights in Thailand from Bangkok-Phuket-Samui-Bangkok with Bangkok Airways. For reservations and enquiries, please see www.bestattravel. co.uk or call 0203 553 0393.

EVA Air flies daily from London Heathrow to Taipei, via Bangkok, offering passengers a choice of three classes of cabin service: Royal Laurel Class (Business Class), award-winning Elite Class (Premium Economy) and Economy Class. Return airfares in economy class start from £578 inclusive of taxes. Book online at www.evaair.com. www.banyantree.com/en/

‘I watch a tiny jade and green bird flutter round a tropical orchid and realise I am a very, very, long way from home. ’ PAGE 23

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

EATING WELL WITH ELENA JOY HUI LIN meets with Elena Arzak at her family’s fourth generation-run Restaurant Arzak in San Sebastián, Spain.

Elena Arzak won World’s Best Female Chef— awarded by Veuve Clicquot in 2012—but it was only one of many laurels heaped upon.

Since she started working in tandem with her famous father, Juan Mari Arzak, in 1995 at Restaurant Arzak she has earned three Michelin stars and has maintained them ever since.

Elena carries on in the nouvelle cuisine basque movement of which Juan Mari Arzak was one of key founders. Diligent, but never lacking a sense of play, Elena’s work at both Arzak and Amesta have won lifelong fans.

Elena Arzak murmurs a soft apology that she is finishing up another interview with local students from the city’s university. “Mariano, a little jamon and bread,” she calls out to her darkhaired sommelier who is prepping for the day’s service, indicating he should send out some food for the hungry youths sitting some paces away from us in the foyer of the historical Restaurant Arzak. The foyer is small and intimate with several cushioned seats for waiting diners with walls trimmed in dark wood, and a highly polished bar lining the back wall. Restaurant Arzak has a lore all of its own: it was built in 1897 by Elena Arzak’s great grandparents and was turned into a wine cellar and a tavern which then quickly garnered a reputation for good food and became a popular venue for banqueting. Elena Arzak cuts a mild figure, petite, clad in her white chef’s coat, and glasses. One would never know that beneath that unassuming demeanour is one of the most critically-acclaimed chefs in the world. And while being the fourth generation of Arzaks to run the

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

kitchen may seem like manifest destiny, Elena Arzak was unduly encouraged to find her own path, and during her childhood was only allowed for two hours maximum to help out in the kitchen during her summer holidays.

It was after Elena, of her own initiative, decided to train in kitchens as famous as Le Gavroche in London, and with El Bulli in Rosas, that she joined with her father to work together in tandem. “We like to help and support the next generation here in Basque country,” nods Elena at the students who are gratefully wolfing down one of the house’s exquisite dishes: crispy manioc hydrated and filled with a mixture of a special mushroom called huitlacoche, found primarily in the Mexican kitchen, onion, green tea, and foie gras. Intergenerational support and family are two of the strongest themes that seem to pervade the ethos of the Arzak tradition along with pioneering and the relentless pursuit to create dishes which showcase the best of Donostia, the Euskari language name for the Basque region. “How long have you been with us, Mariano?” calls out Elena over her shoulder. Mariano Rodriguez, Restaurant Arzak’s sommelier replies, “Thirty-seven.”​ “Many of our staff have been with us a long time,” mentions Elena with a slight shrug.

When I ask her about Restaurant Arzak having a reputation that is especially positive in terms of hiring women Elena says, “My grandmother was a woman from here, the Basque region, which is a matriarchal society. Basque women have always been in the kitchen a lot.” Indeed, when Elena Arzak won the Veuve Cliquot World’s Best PAGE 24

Woman Chef in 2012, she noted at the time that she accepted it also on behalf of the important women in her family that shaped her culinary vision: for her mother Maite, her aunt Serafina, and her grandmother Paquita, who made Arzak famous and taught Elena how to cook.

Reflecting on why this particular region is now one of the most Michelin-star dense places on earth Elena says, “Why food is so important in San Sebastián, nobody knows. But, for my father and I, we only know that people here take a lot of care with the ingredients they cook with.

San Sebastián is well-situated geographically which is why we are accustomed to such excellent ingredients.” When asked about her favourite seasonal ingredients, Elena pauses to contemplate a little before replying, “In summer I always cook with tuna and squid, and it’s also when anchovies are in season. In winter I like to use wild game like wild duck, and the truffles of Navarra. In spring there are little peas that are very good.” “And many mushrooms,” she adds as an afterthought. Elena guides my friend and I up and through a series of staircases and doorways handling her ring of keys like an old tavern master.

“It is a very old building. It’s like a labyrinth” she says smiling. During our visit to the ancient wine cellar, Elena stops to touch an old wooden support beam in the middle of the room, dark with age that’s been deliberately preserved. Then, as if to join the past with the present, we spill into the Arzak food lab where a bright wall of ingredients, a dazzling array of textures, colors, and flavors, are all stored. Elena stands in front of the vast

‘My grandmother was a woman from here, the Basque region, which is a matriarchal society.

Basque women have always been in the kitchen a lot.’

assortment and picks out a small translucent container of green rice from Vietnam to show us an ingredient that is under investigation for possible future course ideas.

“Red and green are two colours that are very Basque -- like the red egg dish on our menu.” She states, “Subconsciously, we work in the style of San Sebastián. We design our dishes by being research-based and focusing on being on the cutting edge but we don’t cook like people did twenty years ago, or ten years in the future, our focus is on cooking in the present.

New techniques and the tools we have are used to bring it all together, but it’s not only for optics.”

“If the taste is not good, we don’t like it,” she says with a small shrug. When asked about her ideation process Elena says, “First, there is an idea that I write down in a notebook. I do research myself at home or on Mondays when my children are school. I browse the internet, read books and reviews about everything related to food.

My system is to research as much possible, and then I take notes. I’ll bring the notes to the lab, then we have a meeting with the people of the lab. Then they start to create the plates.

We are open to their ideas. They show us five different ideas then we taste. When we think that the work is almost finished then we bring the results downstairs.”

Elena shows us a white plastic binder with a recipe is an illustrated diagram highlighting the local traditional blood sausage morcilla reinvented. Elena leans forward over the counter, “We like to have a dialogue with our guests.

My family is here for our guests because we know everybody that comes here is not here by chance. They made a reservation and they know where they are dining. I want the diners to have an experience that inundates all the senses, as well an emotional experience. That they take part in the playful dialogue between the chefs/ creators, and the diners. Both my father and I try to be in the dining room as much as possible.

We like to see the diners’ reactions.” Shortly after the visit to the food lab, seated in Restaurant Arzak’s impeccable modern dining room, Elena sends out a parade of exquisite courses such as sautéed lobster served atop of a transparent plate on top of a screen showing a short film of San Sebastián’s navy-blue waves cresting and crashing.

When we look up, we’re told by our server that the man who just walked in clad in a leather jacket is Juan Mari’s brother and Elena’s uncle.

Having lost count of the delectable courses appearing in front of us, we’re not precisely sure when Juan Mari clad in his white chef jacket appears beaming besides our table, 73-years-old strong. He pinches my cheek and declares my dining partner and I, “family.” It’s not so difficult to fathom why Elena decided to carry on the longheld Arzak tradition of creating inventive dishes under the banners of the proud Basque tradition and the warm supportive auspices of “family.”

PAGE 25

Restaurant Arzak Alcalde Elósegui, 273, 20015 San Donostia-San Sebastián, Guipúzcoa +34 943 278 465 https://www.arzak.info/index.php Ametsa with Arzak Instruction Elena Arzak and father Juan Mari’s iconic San Sebastian restaurant reimagined at the Halkin Hotel.

Halkin Hotel London Halkin St, London SW1X 7DJ 020 7333 1234 If you go: Flights to Bilbao and Biarritz are easily booked through British Airways, EasyJet, and Ryan Air. There are airport shuttles from both cities to San Sebastián.

Where to Stay: Hotel Maria Cristina is San Sebastián’s only five-starred hotel, but make sure to book well in advance. During the yearly film festival, which takes place every September, Julia Roberts purportedly booked the entire top floor.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

A LIP-SMACKING VOYAGE INTO FOODIE SUSSEX For an exploration of locally-sourced produce meals and artisanal goods, we join food writer DAVID HILLIER on his tasty journey.

There’s something apt about losing phone signal as the taxi pulls into Ockendon Manor’s grounds. Whatever you say about your ability to switch off and tune out, unless forced otherwise, I know I’ll be checking my e-mails roughly every 17 seconds.

It’s fitting because Ockendon Manor is a hotel that puts you at ease the moment you walk through its dense oak door, to be greeted by the woody waft of the reception’s open fire. The manor was originally built in the 1500’s, and the owners have kept its original character fittingly old school, with sinking, velvety sofas, lofty bay windows, and a lounge bar where the chairs creak with the knowledge of a thousand whispered conversations.

But it’s never chintzy. It’s about being comfortable, and the old adage about not replacing that which remains unbroken is etched into the beams of the place.

Our foodie weekend really starts in the Burrell Suit: a grand, paneled private dining room from which portraits of Samuel Pepys and Josephine de Beauharnais gaze down. Ockendon’s restaurant is Michelin-starred, and it is difficult to envisage a better environment to enjoy head chef Steve Crane’s culinary vision than here.

Befitting the season, the first three courses are wood pigeon, partridge and venison. Each dish sparkles with the light touch of a chef that isn’t too proud to let the ingredients take the centre stage. By the time we get to the venison, there’s one or two comments about ‘being quite full’, but the pairing of the braised saddle with bon bon, apple and fragrantly-spiced red cabbage meant that those statements proved themselves to be unfounded.

Ockendon is part of the Historic Sussex Hotels group, and the organisation puts great stock in the fact that its food and drink is sourced from the Sussex area. A ‘Flavours of Sussex’ handout is even available in the foyer, and, true to form, every time I exit the front door there is a fine foods van of some description, unloading its delicious wares. It’s another facet of the hotel’s authenticity and genuine commitment to living off the land on which it stands.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast including some cinnamoninfused poached pears which I swear I can still taste melting down both sides of my tongue, we rattled through the leafy streets to the High Weald Dairy: one of their principle cheese suppliers. Greeted there by company owners Mark and Sarah Hardy and their 11- week old, heartbreaker Spaniel puppy Ruby, we were treated to a tour of their kitchens: kitchens that with their vast chrome vats, intricate pipework, jet-washed floors and numbers-full white boards, bore more resemblance to a science lab than an environment for creating such a traditional food as cheese.

This comparison isn’t an idle one. It swiftly becomes clear that cheesemaking is as much a science as it as art, and it is is this confluence of factors that had kept Mark Hardy so bewitched by cheese for 25 years.

It’s often occurred to me that many people who run a food production business such as High Weald probably have to be (in the most perfect and admirable way possible) a little bit mad, a touch cuckoo: a few onions short of a chutney, if you’ll excuse the tenuous analogy. I didn’t reevaluate my position when Sarah told us that a recent holiday of theirs was to a remote part of Italy, to observe how buffalo mozzarella is made.

As we make our way through the different rooms we are given a lot of information- litres, months, temperatures. Of course, some if it sticks and some of it doesn’t, but one fact that lasts the course is that it takes 9 liters of cows milk to make 1 kg of cheese. With sheep milk it’s only 4.5 litres . It’s a telling stat, that helps partly explain the ubiquity of sheep’s cheese on our platters in 2015 (the other reason obviously being that it’s completely delicious).

After making some of our own sinuous mozzarella, we venture with bellies full of cheese to the Bluebell Vineyard in Uckfield, to check the vines where so much of our wine the previous night came.

They have a total of 25 hectares of vines planted, and are one of the new breed of British wineries that are ensuring England is no longer just the runt of the wine-producing litter. The endless rows of trees trail off into

PAGE 26

the distance, and though winemaking is a decidedly slow process - seven years from plant to popping the bottle - Bluebell’s ambitions of producing 150,000 bottles are not based on a false economy. The UK’s wine merchants purchased over £341 million of champagne last year, and Britons consumed 167 million bottles of sparkling wine.

Given the opportunity to walk through the rows of vines, we were afforded the chance to taste the grapes that were not quite ripe for picking yet.

The most obvious thing to note about them was their sweetness -- sweeter than any grape you’d find in Waitrose and really rather moreish. When it came round to our tasting of the wines, it was clear that this sweetness was then replicated in the final product. We tried five, which had a habit of being slightly acidy to start, before giving way to a sweet, buttery finish. I have to confess to being a dye-in-the-wool red wine warrior, but I found most of their offerings entirely quaffable: not least the 2010 Hindleap Blanc de Blancs, with which I would only need a summer’s day and a sliver of salmon to be in a state approaching manna.

With light heads and reliably full bellies we then spent the afternoon foraging in Wild Boar Wood. Except, sadly, none of us found anything. Not one single mushroom between us. Fortunately, any disappointment we felt was swiftly dispelled by the woodland cocktails we had supplied by the local Blackdown distillery, and we made our way back to Ockendon full of glad tidings and tales of the cep that got away.

I then went and had a facial for the first time in my life; where I fell asleep on the bed to the sounds of pan pipes, and with the scent of fine beauty products percolating around my nostrils.

Who needs a phone when you’ve got all this?

‘Each dish sparkles with the light touch of a chef that isn’t too proud to let the ingredients take the centre stage.’

For more information on Ockendon Manor and High Weald dairy, please visit www.hshotels.co.uk/ockenden-manor-hotel-and-spa/ and www.highwealddairy.co.uk respectively.

PAGE 27

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

CREATIVE QUARTERS KCReview Editor COCO KHAN visits the Magic City - Miami, Florida - to discover a burgeoning artistic hub Take a stroll around HistoryMiami – the new revamped historical museum of Southern Florida – and the exceptional speed at which this sunsoaked city has developed is clear. Indeed, this is the spirit of Miami– constantly changing, foot on the pedal, charging forward and forward. For a city which began only 120 years ago with a settlement of 300 people surrounded by swampland, it’s seriously impressive.

There are many directions that Miami is travelling at bullet-train speed, but one of particular note is its journey to become a global creative capital. Yes, there is the famous European import from Art Basel – Art Miami—but there is far more homegrown creativity going on here. The issue that most young cities face in establishing an artistic epicentre is that weaving creativity into the fabric of a city takes generations, often centuries. In this area, Miami has been a trailblazer. Mass investment from both public and private spheres, coupled with a continued effort to preserve Miami’s uniquely kitsch and multicultural creative voice has turned the city into a vibrant hub attracting both artists looking for a new home, and cultural visitors who want their sun and sea with an added dollop of intellectual stimulation.

THE HISTORY Context is everything, but we’ll keep this brief.

Unlike many cities, where space seems to be at a premium from centuries ago, Miami was, and still is, a breath of fresh air. This is partly because for a long time, it was impossible to build there, what with the hurricanes and swampland.

Those who took the challenge often had big, crazy dreams, blown away by the possibility of a blank canvas and a warm winter. Many failed, but some succeeded.

Some of the biggest early investors in Miami were groups of people unable to invest in other cities of America. For a long time, to buy a property you had to be a person of ‘upstanding’ (read: Christian, white Anglo-Saxon) character.

Miami - in its usual trailblazing fashion - was one of the first to waive this rule attracting an entrepreneurial Jewish community. It’s location close to the Caribbean also meant it was a perfect location for rum-runners trading during Prohibition and therefore attracting the Italian-American mob. And then of course there are the waves of immigration from Latin America, Haiti and the Far East. Indeed, Miami as a city for wild ideas, multiculturalism and a bit of good old-fashioned vice is truly in its blood. You can find out more via HistoryMiami www.historymiami.org/ THE ARCHITECTURE Unsurprisingly, because of its multitude of communities, the architecture of Miami is a mashup of styles - but one particular combination has captured the imagination of millions around the world and is now undeniably the ‘Miami style’.

Colloquially described as ‘nautical/tropical art deco’, this Miami take on late Art Deco (known as Streamline Moderne) features pastel colours, aquatic embellishments drawn from Miami’s tropical feel, and racing stripes similar to ocean liners. You’ll find this mainly on Miami Beach with Ocean Drive featuring some of the most iconic sites including the breathtaking Breakwater Hotel.

It’s this landscape that was the backdrop of hugely successful, and now cult TV show Miami Vice, and has been the inspiration for many eightiesinfluenced fashion lines and styles since. So next time your friend brands this aesthetic as eighties, you can point out it’s in fact 1930’s Miami.

Indeed, there is no shortage of iconic architectural sites to fill your boots with.

Miami was the go-to destination during the Golden Age of Hollywood and Miami Beach still has that feel. To fully immerse yourself in it, a stay at the luxury Shelborne Wyndham Grand is a must.

There have been countless images of Hollywood stars pulling up in that drive, and it even has its original diving board (though you can’t use it; like most things made at the turn of the century, its unsafe by contemporary standards). For more info visit Miami Design Preservation League www.mdpl.org and the Shelbourne Wyndham Grand www.shelbornewyndhamgrand.com

Bicentennial Park) when the neighbouring Patricia Frost Museum of Science opens after redevelopment. PAMM is huge, and picks up the most high-profile exhibitions touring especially from the Latin American world, an area sorely neglected in European galleries. www.pamm.org

THE ART SCENE There is so much art happening in Miami at any given point it’s difficult to keep up, but here are some highlights:

FOOD You’ll find plenty of high-end restaurants in Miami, and some of them with very familiar sounding names: Zuma, Sushisamba, Nobu and more.

For something distinctly Miami, wander through the local communities - Little Haiti, Little Havana - and feel like you’re eating your way around the tropics. You can find any type of cuisine here, but if you’ve travelled far from London perhaps try something that we don’t get much of in the Big Smoke - fusion cuisines, Latino food and some styles of dining from the Far East. Think cocktails rather than wine and get into it.

Miami living means sunshine and seaside so unsurprisingly, the city has a strong ‘body-beautiful’ culture. This means there is no shortage of top-quality, health conscious cuisine and its not uncommon to find nutritional information of dishes noted on menus. www.miamiandbeaches.com/things-to-do/dining

Wynwood - Wynwood is a district in Miami which has given itself over entirely to art. Quite literally, every wall is a work of art. Miami has a huge street art scene and Wynwood is the heart of it.

You’ll find in this area work from Miami locals to internationally renowned artists (Shepard Fairey, the man behind the Obama ‘Hope’ campaign poster to name one). It’s incredible to wander the roads and observe the code of conduct that sees no person draw over another’s work, and find hidden codes among the streets from one artist to another. Inside the walls are usually galleries or spaces for creative industries.

On the third Thursday of each month, many of the galleries will open to debut new work with drinks, much akin to London’s own First Thursday.

The artistic happenings of Wynwood regenerated the area, turning it from what could be considered a ‘slum’ to a high-traffic, highly desirable area.

Inevitably, as we’ve seen with London’s East End, this will drive prices up and force artists out of the area. It’s a slow process that has already begun so visit while the spirit is there. www.wynwoodmiami.com PAMM - short for Perez Art Museum Miami is the main contemporary art museum in Miami. It will form part of the 20-acre Museum Park (formerly PAGE 29

New World Symphony - Miami isn’t particularly known for its orchestras or ballet but if you do want to take some of it in, and don’t want to opt for a touring company, visit the New World Symphony. The NWS is an orchestral academy situated in the Adrienne Arsht Centre, a lovely state of the art building (if you can gauge how much a city loves its arts by the buildings they are housed in, then truly Miami loves the arts more than most) alongside Miami City Ballet and Florida Grand Opera. Try and catch one of their outdoor sessions, in which the music is beamed onto the outside wall of the NWS so you can sit on the green on a warm evening and drift away to the music. www.nws.edu Theatre - You can find theatre at the Arsht Centre - including touring shows - though for something a bit more local we heard great things about New Theatre. www.new-theatre.org

HEDONISM And of course, for those who desire it, a trip to Miami wouldn’t be complete without some late-night culture. Late night cocktail bars are commonplace and you’ll find some mega dance clubs on Miami beach. After all, the city that created Pitbull is not going to disappoint rave hungry fans. As usual Miami excels at its Latin fusion haunts so bring your salsa shoes.

For more information on Miami and to book visit www. miamiandbeaches.com

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

WHY WOULD ANYBODY WANT TO LEAVE? SAM KINCHIN-SMITH embarks on a ski safari in the Dolomites, and discovers one of the best new hotels in Europe.

To ski in Italy is to be reminded that this is, in the grand scheme of things, a very young country; a former kingdom of loosely bound regions with distinct identities that resemble those of the separate nations of the UK more than, say, England’s counties.

He a d e a s t, to th e r es or t s of F r i ul i Venezia Giulia, such as Forni di Sopra, and discover Central European vibes (you can ski into Slovenia) and a hotchpotch of provincial languages including Friuli, Fornes and Slovene dialects. Head west, to the Aosta Valley on the Italian side of Mont Blanc, and expect to find the country’s tiniest, proudest ‘autonomous region with special statute’: 3000 square kilometres of cloudline-breaking megapeaks and marvellous restaurants where the majority of the population live in snowsport towns like Courmayeur.

And between the two, there’s wealthy, Austrianish South Tyrol, where one can ski in the shadow of Europe’s most beautiful mountains: the pink pinnacles of the Dolomites, the coral reef of the Alps.

The quasi-borders between these regions have bred rivalries that have, in turn, resulted in small Italian resorts working much harder than the great resorts of France and Switzerland to define, emphasise and augment what it is they have, compared to their neighbours - great news for skiers and snowboarders looking for a holiday with extra USPs. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the handsome wood-carving town of Ortisei in South Tyrol. Here, Adler Resorts, founded over 200 years ago by a man whose family still owns and manages the collection, has created one of the most interesting triptychs of hotels in the Alps. It’s taken two centuries – and it took almost fifteen years to secure planning permission for the centrepiece – but the result is both defined by the history, and defining the future, of this exceptionally abundant region.

First came the Hotel Adler Dolomiti, a classic, richly appointed, proper 5* hotel redolent with tradition and antiquity. Then came Hotel Adler Balance, a pioneering spa and health resort where a team of interdisciplinary physicians design a bespoke healing holiday based on a nonalcoholic cocktail of nutrition, exercise, wellness treatments and sweet Alpine air. And finally, since the summer of 2014, the Adler Mountain Lodge has completed the collection (for now). A subtly astonishing bijou property in the heart of one of the Dolomites’ most glorious vistas, this latest hotel represents a paradigm shift in the basic principles of luxurious mountain hospitality that could only have happened in an autonomous region with special statute, I suspect.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

I arrive as winter melts into spring.

The majority of runs around the hotel are still open, however, and the final leg of my journey from Verona requires well-timed lurches across pistes in a 4x4, dodging skiers. It’s a case of needs must when one’s destination is in the middle of a World Heritage Site, and it’s the location of the AML one notices first, before acknowledging its architecture. Calmly slotting into the mountainside, it maintains continuous, uninterrupted eye contact with two particularly famous Dolomites: Pelmo, or il Trono del Padreterno (the Throne of God) as it’s known locally, and the crooked gothic spire of the Sciliar, the emblem of South Tyrol.

As the light changes throughout the day, picking out the different carbonate minerals of the mountain and flashing blue and lilac, the view is hypnotic. When it burns itself out at sunset, in a crimson phenomenon known as Enrosadira in the local Ladin language, it’s almost a relief.

The low-key craftsmanship of the hotel is the product of two ideas, and over a decade of negotiated compromise. It references the Tyrolean tradition of alpine huts, which pepper the landscapes of the Dolomites. Once rifugi for shepherds, these are now sought-after rural retreats for moneyed townies: primitive party venues for drinking and feasting (the English equivalent would be a beach hut in Southwold, I suppose).

The main concept, though, is revealed in the name: it’s the Adler Mountain Lodge, not the Adler Mountain Hotel. It aspires to evoke the communal warmth and languid storysharing of a safari lodge on the Maasai Mara, so different to the frosty passive-aggression of conventional hotels.

The idea largely works. I spend three days hiking and skiing, exploring and tobogganing around Alpe di Siusi, and continually find myself looking forward to returning to my suite at the Lodge. To the panoramic balcony and infrared wellness radiator in my room. To an outdoor, steaming infinity pool so gorgeous every single guest I saw in there couldn’t resist risking the integrity of their iPhones in their efforts to capture the sublime in a selfie. To decadent spa treatments enriched with raspberries and mountain herbs, and yoga at sunrise and sunset.

To complimentary craft beer and local wines in unlimited quantities – yes, you read that right – and blankets to wrap oneself in at outdoor, fire-warmed tables. To a never-ending, regularly refreshed complimentary buffet of broth and speck and local Pustertaler cheese.

The word complimentary quickly becomes redundant when the hotel’s full-board model is PAGE 30

so generous, in spirit and imagination. This is the AML’s not-so-secret weapon, the dimension that makes it so (to my mind) quietly revolutionary.

The words ‘all-inclusive’ evoke images of canteen food on the turn, steaming in bains marie, and strictly regulated drinks limits, but here it manifests in a six-course tasting menu every night of your stay, with wine pairings. I meet the chef, Hannes Pignater, who tells me his twin inspirations are New Nordic restaurants like Relæ and traditional principles of Tyrolean cooking, all simplicity and local provenance. It shows, in exceptional venison dishes and flavour combinations at the vanilla end of experimentalism, such as beetroot and chocolate.

There are wonderful meals to be had on the mountain, too. In the famous Gostner Schwaige, accessible (in the winter) only by ski, I eat hay soup in a bread bowl, flavoured with dried flowers and a bouquet garni of actual straw. Although it’s technically possible to ski all the way to Cortina in a day, it’s best to approach the snow around Alpe di Siusi like a sort of cultural safari, rather than really challenging sport. I spend a day exploring easy but exquisitely beautiful red and blue runs, in the substantial and rather complicated ski area adjacent to the Lodge, listening to local tales of witches burning at the stake on these mountains.

Then I find a hundred-metre downhill speed track and a giant slalom and let off some steam.

Perhaps the best illustration of what makes the Adler Mountain Lodge such a beguiling proposition is the way I spend the last night of my stay: tobogganing down mountain hairpins in the dark, with only a flickering head torch between me and my doom. Other hotels wouldn’t be willing to facilitate something this wildly and thrillingly irresponsible, but then again, other hotels don’t have directors in their early thirties, and a team with an average age of something like 25.

The resulting energy is surely responsible for the gently hedonistic dynamic that is as important a component of this property as the larchwood it is built out of. It is a phenomenon that is playing an important role in securing Ortisei’s future, because it’s employing a new generation of talented locals in a way the wood-carving industry can’t anymore.

Over supper I ask the hotel manager, Sara Vinatzer, whether she thinks it’s surprising so many Tyrolean kids are willing to stick around and contribute to the next chapter of their region’s proud history. ‘Look around you,’ she responds; ‘why would anybody want to leave?’

For more information and to book, visit https://www. adler-resorts.com/en/

PELMO, IL TRONO DEL PADRETERNO, GLOWING AT SUNRISE. MIDDLE LEFT: THE SMALL WOOD-CARVING TOWN OF ORTISEI. MIDDLE RIGHT: THE VIEW FROM THE TERRACE OF THE LODGE. BOTTOM LEFT: THE AML’S SPECTACULAR INFINITY POOL. BOTTOM RIGHT: OUTDOOR, FIRE-WARMED TABLES, WITH PELMO IN THE BACKGROUND.

THE SILK ROAD IN SPOONFULS Coco Khan visits the Sani Resort, Halkidi to experience the Sani Gourmet.

It’s raining in London when I board my plane to Thessaloniki, Greece.

It’s a trip I wouldn’t normally make. I’ve always found resorts to be fairly boring, and my travel taste has tended toward vibrant cultural cities or far- flung places. My associations with resort vacations are primarily of cheap package holidays and I’ve not understood the appeal of luxury resorts where, despite being pampered are still ultimately limited for entertainment. That is, until I visited the Sani Resort.

The first thing to say is that the weather didn’t disappoint. May is truly a wonderful time to visit Greece and due to Sani’s northern and waterfront location (with its own private beach no less), is unlikely to get that sticky, cloying heat until the height of summer, if at all. Sani caters for families and extremely well actually – they offer beachside crèches and a variety of kids’ areas and activities – but if you’re visiting as a couple it might be best to visit outside of summer holidays.

It’s an hour’s drive away from Thessaloniki airport to Halkidiki – the three peninsulas in northern Greece that appear like a fork on a map.

I’m driving to Kassandra, the most westerly prong, and as I head away from the city into roads surrounded by plush greenery, it becomes apparent that Sani is at the heart of some outstanding natural beauty.

Over the weekend I will learn there is 1000 acres of beauty; Sani is based on an ecological reserve that combines sandy beaches and the azure of the Aegean Sea, with emerald green pine trees along rocky clifftop walks.

The second thing to say is that Sani Resort itself is absolutely huge

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

(it has its own marina!) with a variety of areas to keep you amused for quite some while. Aside from the various types of accommodation, each with their own feel (hotels, villas etc), there’s the on-site theatre, the open-air cinema, the various spas, the marina, the wetland walks and more –perhaps this is why Sani is fully booked during peak season; their guests keep coming back, always finding something new to discover.

Indeed, this spirit of discovery is at the heart of the Sani Gourmet, a high-end food festival held each year in May in which several of Sani’s various resort restaurants are taken over by top guest chefs from around the world. Boasting ten years of foodie decadence, Sani Gourmet is a glamorous affair that attracts even diners from outside the resort.

During my stay, the theme is ‘Silk Road’, continuing after a hugely successful year prior. Focusing on the culinary ties between Europe and Asia, restaurants turn their hand to creating high-end morsels from Turkey, Italy, India and China, with chef Tasos Mantis from Michelin starred “Hytra” restaurant in Athens demonstrating how the simple cuisine of Greece can be elevated to glorious highs.

Most interestingly however is the inclusion of lesser known cuisines and the innovative chefs who have championed them. Where else can you unfurl in the sun and have some of the most exciting chefs from around the world – chefs creating work so innovative you might not even have heard of it - at your service every night? There was Tamara Tekuna Gachechiladze, the daring restauranteur putting Georgia on the map. Her food - which combines Georgian, Persian and even Russian

PAGE 32

influences (reflecting the main ethnic influences in Georgia)- is served using nouvelle cuisine methods and presentation , a concept called Supra Nova. Elsewhere on the resort Canada’s most famous Iranian chef (Vancouver’s answer to Sabrina Ghayour) Hamid Saliman finds his dinner service fully booked, while we manage to grab the last table at Alfred Prasad’s restaurant.

Alfred is India’s youngest Michelin starred chef, but RBKC locals may recall him from Mayfair’s Tamarind. Prasad is serving a multi-course tasting menu, as is the preference of many of the restaurants participating in Sani Gourmet. Flavours of coriander, red chilli and cinnamon fill the air in the restaurant overlooking the marina – a little piece of Monaco or Montenegro to feast the eyes alongside your appetite.

We’re lucky that during our short stay we’re able to dine in another Sani Gourmet participating restaurant. We’ve booked ahead, but with so many keen foodies around there are no guarantees – not that you’d be able to guess by the eye. Sani as a resort is designed so that even at 100% capacity it never feels full. There will never be a queue or a fight for service. If the most luxurious commodity in life is time, then here time stands still; it leaves you with all the space you need to reconnect with the senses.

It’s Anar Gasimov’s restaurant that stands out most in the mind for me. The young chef from Azerbaijan is making a name for himself in Baku, reinvigorating traditional Azeri cuisine to contend with French, Italian and the classics we’ve come to know and love. Hot broths, slow cooked meats that fall away from the fork alongside sharp, almost chilli pickles washed down with a lethal shot of Arak.

I leave Sani after four days knowing there was much more to be found, surprises that I probably couldn’t even fathom – delicious morsels I’d never tried before, or glorious sights of the sea and wild birds from a view I couldn’t find anywhere else. Perhaps a quality resort such as this isn’t a last resort after all.

For more information and to book, visit www.sani-resort.com or download the app from iTunes.

PAGE 33

‘When else can you travel the world yet remain firmly in your lap of luxury?’

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

FINDING YOUR OASIS OF ZEN While the holistic view to health is far from new, a recently opened wellness retreat in the foothills of the Himalayas inspires travel writer KARIN RUS to achieve that balance as she explores India’s Vana Malsi Estate.

Whether it’s finding equilibrium on a physical, mental, emotional or spiritual level – or all the above – Vana promises a wellness retreat that includes all aspects of wellbeing. For the next six days this modern ashram in the forests just outside bustling small town Dehradun is my home. All the noise, traffic and crowds are left behind as soon as I enter Vana. Daily life here consists of tranquillity, relaxation and serenity.

More specifically: luxurious spa treatments, massages, yoga and meditation. My first activity here, though, is a doctor’s appointment: my arrival consultation with the serious looking Dr. Pooja.

What do I eat? How do I sleep? Do I exercise regularly? Do I feel stressed/tired/depressed?

I know my lifestyle is not the healthiest, but also believe I am doing sort of all right. If the good doctor is correct, I will be doing a lot better by the time I leave.

Vana has a minimum stay of five nights which winds up as a blessing. It is a chance to properly unwind, unlike much inferior one-day spa treatments. I will be forced to relax completely.

Clad in white kurta pajamas, I set out to explore the 21-acre estate and as I am now officially ‘on retreat’. It is astonishing to believe we are so close to Dehradun; the only sounds being the birds in the trees and the soft conversations of the fellow pyjama-clad guests. I discover an orchard, a vegetable garden and a pristine pool, but most of all I discover an atmosphere of utter zen that surrounds everything. Back in my room there is a note from Dr. Pooja with my bespoke wellness itinerary. She has booked me three to four treatments on each day of my stay – from

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

an ayurvedic abhyanga massage to a Tibetan Ku Nye treatment and from acupuncture to private yoga sessions.

The next morning, the scent of incense entwines with that of my herbal tea as I sit on the balcony watching the daybreak. On my lap is the Retreat Wellbeing Calendar of the week.

Apart from my personal itinerary, there are optional activities galore: yoga, ohm chanting, meditation classes, cooking workshops, Sufi singing and music recitals – just to name a few.

Vana combines Ayurveda, Tibetan medicine S ow a R i gpa , n a tu r a l th e r a p i e s, sp a a n d fitness to create a total wellness experience.

Including food. There are two restaurants that serve a selection of tasty dishes for every palate.

The food is healthy, of course, but the focus is just as much on flavour as it is on health. Vana espouses a mindful focus on eating as an experience that delights, nourishes and heals.

And if you want to combine that with a glass of wine or champagne, Vana accommodates you.

The word “vana” means forest, referring to the clusters of reserve Sal forest the estate borders. It is specially designed for guests that feel like stepping out of their lives and be on retreat; away from it all. Founder Veer Singh explains: “To truly be on retreat, you need time.

That is why we have set a minimum stay of five nights. While certain retreat objectives require longer, we feel guests should at least reserve that much time to be able to derive benefit from their treatment. You need time to unwind, to reflect and to find yourself again. At Vana, we give you all the tools, support and inspiration you need.

PAGE 34

Simply being here brings about a sense of wellbeing. Some see it as an ashram of the contemporary world, others as an urban forestretreat, and the romantics, as an ideal microcosm of real life. My goal was to create the most iconic wellness retreat in the world and I leave it up to the guests to decide if we succeeded.”

Four days in and I have been massaged thoroughly, done more yoga than in the whole of last year, and most importantly I started meditating again. Sitting in the morning class, lying down during the musical saag therapy or just on my own on my balcony – I have once again found that peaceful bliss of stillness. No talking, not even to myself, but just being. Only now am I starting to realise what Dr. Pooja must have seen at a glance: how stressed I really was. I still get up at 6 in the morning, but with a whole new clarity.

My eyes, ears and even heart seem more open than ever. As far as this may be from my normal daily life, I have never felt more like myself.

On the one hand, I would not mind staying for another week. On the other hand, I can’t wait to get back into the groove. Once outside the retreat I feel utterly happy to be in India.

Dehradun is still busy, noisy and intense, but to me it somehow all makes sense now. Yes, people are shouting, but how else could they hear each other over the honking traffic? The stalls selling food, clothes and innumerable other things are a representation of the colourful mix of India. The country I love so much, even more so now I know of a little oasis in the middle of it all.

For more information and bookings see www.vanaretreats.com.

‘Four days in and I have been massaged thoroughly and done more yoga than in the whole of last year.’

THE QUEST FOR LUXURY IN THE MALDIVES The Maldives declared independence 50 years ago, but the exquisite island chain didn’t open a single resort until 1972. Now, with over 100 resorts to choose from, RUPERT PARKER highlights four of the best.

You’d imagine that the Maldives would be the perfect place for island hopping, drifting across the Indian Ocean into the perfect sunset. After all, there are around 1,200 separate isles, some not much more than a palm tree stuck on a lump of coral, others home to luxury resorts, fitting the ultimate honeymoon dream. However, the Maldives are comprised of 99% sea and 1% land so its 106 resorts are widely spread out. Distances between them are huge, and most of the time the transport connects through the airport therefore it’s important to choose your resort wisely.

The group of islands nearest to the airport are only a half hour speedboat ride away, and are easily accessible which is particularly important after a long international flight. Regrettably, they’re not as isolated or as tranquil as other islands. Going further afield means longer boat rides, domestic flights, or, best of all, short seaplane hops. All offer sumptuous accommodation, either on land or above the water, obligatory spa treatments, and a variety of watersports including reef snorkelling Four Seasons Kuda Huraa A speedboat will whisk you to Kuda Huraa in less than 30 minutes from the airport. The Four Seasons is a medium-sized resort with 96 bungalows, with a choice between chalets on stilts over the water, or bungalows on land with beach access and private plunge pool. The spa occupies its own tiny island, and a small boat will fetch and ferry you over to your massage. The resort boasts of four restaurants serving a range of cuisines from Indian to Italian, all featuring freshly-caught seafood.

The benefit of choosing a larger resort such as the Four Seasons is that it can offer a wide range of activities including parasailing, jet skiing, wakeboarding, wakeskating, waterskiing, and kneeboarding. They’ll even give you surf lessons, as there’s a reef nearby where they hold an annual surf competition. Every evening you can take a sunset cruise to watch Spinner dolphins or fish for your dinner. They have a turtle conservancy here and you can go out with their resident marine biologist and swim with the critically endangered hawksbill turtle.

Of course there’s snorkelling galore and you get your own personal

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

mask and fins to explore the reefs round the island. For the more adventurous there’s an introduction to Scuba, supervised by an instructor who takes you out to dive to a depth of over 11 metres. It’s exhilarating and you might, as we did, come into contact with a rather angry moray eel.

Rates at Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa start from £596 per Beach Pavilion with pool per night based on two people sharing.

Velassaru Island Velassaru is also a short 30 minutes journey from the airport. It is a slightly larger resort with 129 bungalows, with options on water or land.

Lush vegetation envelops the accommodation and lends intimacy to the residences. The water bungalows have a large outside deck with a personal infinity plunge pool. The floor-to-ceiling windows mean you always have views of the cerulean Indian Ocean.

There are five different restaurant experiences and executive chef Carlos Exprua constantly reinvents the menu. He’s introduced a range of world tapas dishes in the outside Chill Bar, where you can snack all day, and there’s the Japanese-inspired Teppanyaki restaurant. For a special treat, you can avail yourself of private beach dining at sunset where they’ll cut a table for you out of the sand and serve you a satay barbecue.

The spa at Velassaru Island is perched over the water, so you can enjoy a range of treatments while listening to the gentle sound of the waves.

They also offer yoga sessions, as well as snorkelling and diving; there’s a whole range of watersports including my favourite, kayaking in transparent glass bottom kayaks.

Rates start at £420 for a Deluxe Bungalow based on two people sharing. Inclusive of return boat transfer.

Park Hyatt Maldives Hadahaa Getting here means hopping onto an hour-long domestic flight to Kooddoo Island, and then transfering to a 30-minute speedboat ride, but that’s the price you pay for exclusivity and seclusion. There are only 50 villas here, and each park villa is hidden by the jungle vegetation so you really do feel you’re

PAGE 36

in the wild. The water villas at the Park Hyatt have been carefully built on the existing coral reef. It’s the only resort in the Maldives certified for both design and construction by the environmental organisation EarthCheck.

Snorkelling around the house reef is particularly good because much of the coral is intact, and I bump into a one-metre reef tip shark cruising by. Amy Sing Wong, the resident marine biologist, gives me a primer on coral formation then takes me on a boat trip to the edge of the atoll, at 90m one of the deepest in the Maldives. The marine life is stunning and I clock eagle rays, turtles, a couple of sharks, as well as many large fish.

There’s an opportunity to explore a couple of deserted coral islands and we even put into an inhabited island, stroll around the town and enjoy some fresh coconut water.

Naturally, there’s a gloriously long infinity pool, if the sea, or your own private plunge pool isn’t enough. The intense deep tissue massage in the Vidhun Spa is unparalleled in skill beneath the high-thatched ceilings.

There are only two restaurants here, the Dining Room, located by the pool and the more upscale Island Grill, with an open-air kitchen. Local fish is heavily featured on the menu and I particularly enjoy Maldivian fish soup and spiced fillets of reef fish.

Rates for a deluxe villa at Park Hyatt Maldives start at £556 per villa, inclusive of breakfast. Meal plans up to all-inclusive are available.

Kandolhu Island Kandolhu Island is the ultimate Maldive experience. Flying in on a small Twin Otter seaplane from the water by the airport, and, after a scant twenty minutes, you touch down by a rudimentary raft, moored in the middle of the ocean and a speedboat suddenly appears over the horizon to whisk you away to this boutique retreat.

It only has 30 villas and, since it opened in Feb 2014, everything is almost brand new with the highest quality interiors - German furniture, Swiss bathroom fittings, even your own wine chiller. And if you’re on their Ultimate Inclusions package you get to sample as many of these wines as you like, as well as a range of spirits. It also has the highest ratio of restaurants to villas,

with Japanese, international, meat and seafood grills and Mediterranean waiting to tempt you.

There’s a family feel to the place as it’s run by a welcoming young couple, Marc and Laura. The house reef is spectacular and you can even see baby sharks swimming in the shallows as you walk along the beach.

You’ve a choice between a Jacuzzi villa, with a private pool which opens directly onto the beach, or an ocean pool villa, which is suspended over the sea, and connected to the land by its own private walkway. And don’t forget to indulge in their Varu Spa which can compete with the best.

Rates for a Jacuzzi Beach Villa starts at US$ 751.20 inclusive of all taxes per night on double occupancy on Bed & Breakfast basis.

Choosing a resort can be difficult and the choice really depends on how and where you want to spend your holiday as well as how much you want to spend. The bigger ones offer a greater range of water sports, while the smaller resorts offer more seclusion. All provide sunset cruises, snorkel excursions and fishing. Food is important, since there’s nowhere else to dine, so that may affect your decision but, ultimately, what makes the difference is the standard of service. I can say that in all four of these resorts, it was impossible to find fault.

Emirates flies to Male via Dubai from six UK airports including London, Manchester and Glasgow. Return economy flights from London Gatwick Airport start from £768 per person. www.emirates.com Visit Maldives has additional information on the country. www.visitmaldives.com www.fourseasons.com/maldiveskh www.velassaru.com www.maldives.hadahaa.park.hyatt.com www.kandolhu.com

PAGE 37

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

BEARS, AND FORESTS, AND LAKES, OH MY! In the edges of Canadian wilderness, travel writer HARRIET BEDDER finds more adrenaline-pumping adventure than she expected.

We are standing on the island shore in our underwear, looking across a body of water at land that stands less than twenty metres away from us.

Our guide, Chantal, takes the first step into the dark lake, sinking into the mud before pushing off and propelling towards the other side against the slow moving current. Torn between safety and adventure, our bodies heightened by rising cortisol levels - unwillingly follow behind her.

We emerge on the other side and turn to see our piles of clothes on the island we have left behind – our home for the next two nights. We look up the bank in front of us where Chantal is now standing. ‘I thought you two wanted to track a bear!’ She calls, and beckons at us to follow.

After landing at North Bay airport, roughly a 45 minute flight from Toronto in a twin-engine turboprop, we catch our first glance of the airport’s windmill, inscribed with a message welcoming us to the small town. Our Northern Edge hosts are already waiting to pick us up and take us to the lodge, an hour’s drive away to the secluded woodlands of Algonquin Park. When we arrive, the first thing we are greeted with is the stars. The vast blanket of black over the canopy of birch and maple trees around us is dotted with the most amazing array of shining lights exceeding those in the Icelandic mountains, and giving the Atacama Desert in Patagonia a run for it’s money.

It’s hard to draw your eyes away from them, and there is a longing to run, mesmerised, into a bigger clearing to get a better look a the sky.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

The spell is broken with an introduction to our guide for the duration of the trip, a warm and friendly woman with an air of adventure and mystery about her. After being lead to our comfortably cosy yet spacious rooms – made up of clusters of individual log cabins dotted around the site – we fell into a deep, undisturbed sleep in anticipation of the following four days.

With no external sounds or light, the whole party awoke simultaneously without alarms - at 5am feeling recharged and awaiting breakfast cooked by our personal chef.

The food at Northern Edge lodge is outstanding, with fresh, organic produce being cooked at each meal by Gregor of Stonemote Cottage.

He follows no recipes, but instead personally selects the freshest crops from local farmers and markets and creates colourful spreads of mouthwatering dishes – whilst maintaining the ability to cater to all of our dietary requirements. Food for our camping trip was also prepared and packaged

by Gregor so that we felt that our base camp in the woodland of Algonquin Park was but a home from home.

Located in Algonquin Park, which is roughly the same size as Wales measuring in at around 5,000 square miles - Northern Edge sits along one of the countless freshwater lakes, giving the Lake District’s limited variety a run for their money. With its vast beauty and diversity, camping for months in the park would bring a different experience each day. A reserve for wildlife, including black bears and packs of wolves, you are left to feel at one with

PAGE 38

‘The vast blanket of black over the canopy of birch and maple trees around us is dotted with the most amazing array of shining lights exceeding those in the Icelandic mountains, and giving the Atacama Desert in Patagonia a run for it’s money.’ nature with no access to communication or distraction from the outside world, effectively tuning off from the world to tune in to yourself. The maple trees lining the river banks change colour in different weather, so it’s not unusual to experience an array of autumnal colouring in just a few days, magically reflecting and glistening in the water.

Positioned on ‘the edge’ of the park, The Edge offers a number of activities, from learning – and mastering – stand up paddle boarding, to early morning yoga on the docks, all accompanied by the sound of water lapping the rocks, and there are stacks of blankets for when it gets chilly.

Our activities on the trip included trying a lot of what Northern Edge had to offer, but eventually lead us to specialise in canoeing. After a few hours of practice followed by a good night’s sleep, we began our two-hour trip into the heart of Algonquin Park the following morning.

Our package, the Wild Women Expedition, saw us powered by adrenaline and a surprisingly quick dose of female bonding. Though only being together for 36 hours, we felt as if we knew each other well enough to form a great level of trust – something that our guides assure us is always quick to happen on their female-only trips. ‘Leading women’s only trips provides an environment where women can “be” in the wilderness together and cooperatively enjoy a sense of belonging there.’ Though a challenge, and far out of most of our comfort zones, the support we gave each other allowed us to thrive in the wilderness, with Chantal and Jennifer as our guides.

Activities ranged from rescuing baby turtles, hiking through untouched trails and filtering our own water, to wet play arts and crafts under tarpaulin.

From fashioning our own hammocks and singing Canadian camp songs to learning to make fires to cook chilli and roast smores. On the last night of camping, we are lead by our guides in a session of howling into the night in order to be answered by the replies of wolves’ miles away.

The Wild Women Expedition has mastered a unique relationship with nature that the guides are passionate about and eager to share with every member of the group. In order to experience something unforgettable, each woman must be willing to experience new things, and be comfortable with a momentary pause on city life. After a few testing days filled with physically challenging canoeing and portaging, one thing is for certain: the breathtaking view of the sun setting over Craig Lake is not a sight to be missed.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

Air Canada offers more daily flights from the UK to Canada than any other airline, with 63 non-stop flights per week to seven major Canadian cities scheduled this winter.

From London Heathrow, the airline operate four services per day to Toronto and daily services to Vancouver, Montréal and Calgary during the winter season; it also operate four weekly flights to Halifax and three weekly flights to St. John's. Air Canada rouge, Air Canada's leisure airline, recently announced new seasonal non-stop routes from London Gatwick and Glasgow to Toronto for summer 2016. Return Economy flights from London Heathrow to Toronto start from £427.76 incl. taxes. Find out more at www.aircanada.com or call Reservations on 0871 220 1111.

Customized itineraries can be booked from approx £99/person/night depending on the style of experience. For more information, visit www.northernedgealgonquin.ca Flights provided by Destination Canada www.destinationcanada.com Find more info on Ontario: www.ontariotravel.net/en/home

PAGE 40

HIDDEN DELIGHTS SID RAGHAVA visits the Courthouse hotel—one of the few boutique hotels in Central London to boast a cinema and a swimming pool—to find a quirky treasure packed with cultural references celebrating Soho’s one-in-a-million past.

Think of London as a tourist destination and you’re bombarded with myriad visions popping up generously, fizzing and morphing into each other: The London Eye beside the fabulous South Bank or Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament shimmering above the Thames; the thriving markets on Portobello Road or perhaps more recently, the hipster chic of Shoreditch.

Arguably however, the most iconic bits of London - and still the most sought after tourist attractions - surely centre around Soho, the Theatre District, Oxford Circus, Carnaby Street etc. Conveniently, The Courthouse Hotel stands at the epicentre of this most famous and soughtafter part of London. The building was once the Great Marlborough Street Magistrates Court where the likes of Oscar Wilde, Mick Jagger and John Lennon were tried. It has now been transformed into one of the city’s most centrally located five star hotels. The A1 location and complementary opulence would have been enough to pull visitors to the hotel but there’s more to it. Delightful restaurants and trendy bars aside, there is a spa and a more importantly a private cinema! f you wanted a bit extra from your Central London hotel, this definitely delivers.

The Courthouse offers a wide variety of accommodation types to the demanding tourist or indeed a weekending Londoner. These start from the sufficiently roomy ‘Classic’ and rise up in opulence across five tiers of luxury topped off by the exquisite Lalique Penthouse Suite. All rooms include a writing desk, 2-line direct dial telephone with voicemail, LCD flat screen televisions with satellite, and high speed data ports, Italiansourced Bathroom interiors and frosted picture windows. The Magistrates suites occupy the first, second and third floors and several offer the most interesting views of the hustle and bustle of the neighbouring Carnaby Street.

For lovers of Indian food, a new Dishoom had just opened a mere minute or two walk away from the building but there’s plenty of treats in store within the Courthouse itself. Starting from the ground up, The Bar offers some lovely cocktails, delectable wines and a good choice of international beers along with a healthy selection of light bites and snacks all within the renovated space of original prison cellblocks. It doesn’t get more magistrate-y than that. Silk, the exquisite Asian restaurant, is located on the same level and will tick your box if unctuous dishes such as grilled tamarind duck breast are your sort of thing.

Sanook Spa is a treat for Londoners and tourists alike. Located in the basement, Sanook which cheekily translates to ‘enjoy yourself’ in Thai includes a range of luxurious spa treatments including facials, body massages, sauna and fitness rooms. The heated indoor swimming pool is an added bonus and an absolute treat to find the middle of London’s busiest quarter. And finally, there’s the cinema, the wonderful, intimate and luxurious cinema. Suitable for seating up to a hundred people, it boasts a Dolby 6.1 sound system. Every Saturday, it plays host to a unique cinema club, with showings of modern classics as well as the latest releases with a champagne cocktail on arrival and the option of a pre-dinner in the Carnaby Brasserie.

London is one of the biggest cities in the world and amongst the most visited and celebrated.

The Courthouse offers an excellent option to explore the great city from a central location in luxurious surroundings and feel a part of Soho’s incredible history.

The Courthouse Hotel 19 -21 Great Marlborough Street, London, W1F 7HL Tel: 020 7297 5555 Rooms start from £159

‘Sanook Spa is a treat for Londoners and tourists alike. Located in the basement, Sanook cheekily translates to ‘enjoy yourself’ in Thai.’

PAGE 41

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

2.

1.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: 1. TAYLOR’S 1985 VINTAGE PORT £71.95 WWW.LEAANDSANDMAN.CO.UK 2. MIN NEW YORK MAGIC CIRCUS £200 ONE OF ELEVEN CHAPTERS, ONLY 1000 BOTTLES ARE MADE OF EACH SCENT PER YEAR. AVAILABLE AT WWW.SELFRIDGES.CO.UK AND HARVEY NICHOLS 3. C9 MOONPHASE WATCH STAINLESS STEEL MODEL CHRISTOPHER WARD £1395 WWW.CHRISTOPHERWARD.CO.UK 4. CAVIAR PURE LUXURY KIT BY KERSTIN FLORIAN. CONTAINS CRÈME CLEANSER, ROSE DAMASCENA MIST, AGE DEFENSE CRÈME AND NIGHT CRÈME £116 WWW.KERSTINFLORIAN.CO.UK 5. MONOGRAMMED LUXURY CASHMERE SOCKS PANTHERELLA FINE ENGLISH SOCKS. PRICES BEGIN FROM £40 WWW.PANTHERELLA.COM 6. ALPACA TRAVEL SHAWL ANNABEL JAMES £99.99 WWW.ANNABELJAMES.CO.UK 7. SPRINGBOK HAIR ON HIDE CLUTCH BAG SHERENE MELINDA £175 WWW.SHERENEMELINDA. CO.UK

7.

6.

3.

4.

5.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

PAGE 42

1.

2.

7.

6.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: 1. REGENERATING HAIR MASK CHRISTOPHE ROBIN. AVAILABLE FROM FORTNUM & MASON, NET-A-PORTER, HARRODS, FENWICK. £51 WWW.CHRISTOPHE-ROBIN.COM/EN 2. BACKBEAT SENSE WIRELESS HEADPHONES PLANTRONICS £129.99 WWW.PLANTRONICS.COM 3. TAITTINGER NOCTURNE SEC NV £51.90.

AVAILABLE PETER JONES, WAITROSE, HARRODS, FORTNUM & MASON WWW.HARRODS.COM 4. CORAVIN 1000 ENJOY WINE BY THE GLASS WITHOUT EVER HAVING TO PULL THE CORK USING CORAVIN’S WINE ACCESS SYSTEM £269 AVAILABLE AT HARRODS WWW.CORAVIN.COM 5. ROOMBA 875 IROBOT. ROBOT VACUUM CLEANER. £579.99 AVAILABLE AT EURONICS WWW.EURONICS.CO.UK 6. ROCK ROSE GIN £34. AVAILABLE AT FORTNUM AND MASON AND HARVEY NICHOLS WWW.HARVEYNICHOLS.COM 7. NOTIS VITA JUICER £299.99. AVAILABLE AT HARRODS. WWW.HARRODS.COM

3.

4.

5.

PAGE 43

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

SHOPPING | CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE

6.

1.

5.

3.

4.

2.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: 1. CANE CREW NECK FIERY SHADES OF ORANGE £180 WWW.MRQUINTESSENTIAL.CO.UK 2. IPHONE 6S AVAILABLE ON A VODAFONE RED 10GB BUNDLE FROM £54 PER MONTH (£9 UPFRONT COST) WWW.VODAFONE.CO.UK 3. SONY XPERIA Z5 RED 2GB BUNDLE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY ON VODAFONEAT £44 PER MONTH (£9 UPFRONT COST) WWW.VODAFONE.CO.UK 4. MEN-Ü PRO BLACK £19.95 WWW.MEN-U.CO.UK 5. JACK DANIELS MASTER DISTILLER £31.99 WWW.JACKDANIELS.CO.UK 6. CROSLEY NOMAD TURNTABLE £210 AVAILABLE ON AMAZON WWW.CROSLEYRADIO.COM KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

PAGE 44

GEOX... GIFTS FOR HIM 1.

5.

2.

3.

3.

4.

1. GEOX MEN’S NEBULA £110 2. GEOX MEN’S SCARF IN OLIVE GREEN £34.90 3. GEOX MEN’S BOOT £210 4. GEOX MEN’S SHORT COAT £269 5. GEOX MEN’S RESPIRA COAT £319 GEOX NOW HAS A NEW HOME AT 100 KENSINGTON HIGH STREET, KENSINGTON LONDON, W8 4SG. THE OTHER STORE IN THE ROYAL BOROUGH IS AT 33G KING’S RD, LONDON SW3 4LX. OR SHOP ONLINE AT: WWW.GEOX.COM

PAGE 45

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

1.

7.

6.

5.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: 1. NEWBY TEAS GOURMET SELECTION RANGE OF FINE LOOSE LEAF TEAS. RRP £30-£55 AVAILABLE AT HARVEY NICHOLS AND HARRODS WWW.NEWBYTEAS.COM 2. BOSS ORANGE ARENTINO FAIR ISLE JUMPER £139. AVAILABLE AT WOODHOUSE CLOTHING, NOTTING HILL. 3. CANDLE LIMITED EDITION EMMA CLEGG COLLECTORS CANDLE, BY WILLOW AND HONEY, £50/220G. WWW.WILLOWANDHONEY.CO.UK 4. ROC SPORT SUPERSLIM WIRELESS IN-EAR HEADPHONES BY MONSTER.

2.

£129.95 EXCLUSIVELY AT HARRODS WWW.MONSTERPRODUCTS.COM 5. LIMITED EDITION FINEST ENGLISH STILTON JAR £28/500G. AVAILABLE AT PAXTON & WHITFIELD’S, CHELSEA. 6. BLUE QUARTZ DIAMOND RING TRESOR £3,397 WWW.TRESORPARIS.COM 7. ANKI OVERDRIVE CAR RACING FUSING TRADITIONAL TRACK RACING WITH VIDEO GAMES VIA AN APP USABLE ON MOBILE OR TABLET. £149.99 FOR A STARTER KIT. AVAILABLE FROM SELFRIDGES, HARRODS, HARVEY NICHOLS AND ONLINE. WWW.SELFRIDGES.COM 3.

4.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

PAGE 46

FESTIVE FOOD GUIDE DIRTY MARTINI

Various locations including Mayfair www.dirtymartini.uk.com WORDS: SARAH JACKSON Like so many London venues, Dirty Martini falls into the category of amalgamating vintage and modern, with mixed results. They have a focus wall made up of a dark wood display cabinet full of glass decanters of all shapes and sizes, paired with colourful artwork and exposed pipes. It gives a slightly chaotic impression, but is fairly stylish nonetheless.

The Christmas cocktail menu here is absolute rocket fuel, so watch you don’t drink too many as they go down very easily. The theme seems to be turbo-ing up classic cocktails with further shots, so it may not taste different from your average tipple, but you’ll certainly feel it in the morning. All the cocktails are £9, and here’s a succinct run down: Bellringer Blood orange syrup, fresh cranberry juice and a dash of Amaretto, topped with Prosecco.

A delightfully decadent slice of childhood - a grown up refresher in a glass.

Dirty Grinch Havana three year rum, creme de cacao and butterscotch schnapps, shaken with fresh mint and double cream and a dash of creme de menthe. Served with an after dinner mint chocolate slice.

Mint and creme de menthe, rum and creme de cacao, cream and butterscotch, this slides down with velvety ease.

Xmas Old Fashioned Jim Beam bourbon, stirred with Pimento Dram and ginger syrup, spiced with cloves and star anise. Garnished with a vial of cinnamon infused Lagavulin.

The first sip is a smooth fusion of ginger and cinnamon, followed by the typical smoky, TCP flavour of the Islay whisky, with a punch of clove on the finish.

Winter Tiramisu Absolut vodka, Martell VS Cognac and Kahlua shaken with Mozart White, Creme de Cacao and double cream.

A White Russian on speed, incorporating Cognac into the traditional mix, as well as Mozart White, a vanilla flavoured liqueur, sprinkled with dark chocolate shavings.

Winterberry Beamer Jim Beam Bourbon, Manzanilla Sherry and Pimento Dram, muddled with fresh blackberries and vanilla sugar, shaken with fresh pomegranate juice, lemon juice and egg white.

Neither fish nor foul, this tastes a bit like your aunty tipped the entire contents of her drinks cabinet into a small glass, including a dash of cough syrup. Not recommended.

TRADER VIC’S

22 Park Lane, London, W1K www.tradervicslondon.com WORDS: SARAH JACKSON Situated at the bottom of the Park Lane Hilton, Trader Vic’s is an exotic Tiki wonderland, filled with Polynesian artifacts, lilting salsa music and

PAGE 47

possessing an atmosphere of casual luxury.

It is as if you’ve stepped off the grim streets of London and onto a Hawaii beach. This is the ideal place to come after a stressful day at the office (or off the back of Christmas shopping on Oxford Street). If you want the ultimate in relaxation, Trader Vic’s is the place, not least because of their fantastic and lethal cocktail menu, which includes the original Mai Tai, invented by founder Victor Bergeron in 1944. Apparently it gained its name from the words of one of the first to try it.

After “The Trader”, (as he became known due to his bartering on the streets of Hawaii) had offered his new creation to a few pals visiting from Tahiti, his friend Carrie Guild is reported to have cried out “Maita’i roa ae!”, which figuratively translated means “out of this world!”

The cocktail list here contains way more than simply the Mai Tai, although the general inspiration continues with the island theme.

From their coconut inspired Chi Chi (£9), a pina Colada with vodka and a hint of orange, and Bahia, a delectable mix of light rum with coconut and pineapple (£9.50), to their more hilariously named Suffering Bastard, a blend of rums, lime and cucumber liqueurs (£9.50) all these cocktails have been created with loving care. If you prefer something a little more British, you might enjoy their signature cocktails, the London Sour, created for the opening of the London branch of Trader Vic’s in 1963. This is a robust blend of scotch whisky with fresh oranges, lemons and a hint of almonds (£9), and certainly takes the edge off a hard day in the city.

Trader Vic’s also offers a luscious food menu, carrying on the languid holiday feel.

Starters include ribs (£14), crab rangoon (£9) and tuna poke (£15), and mains a selection of meat, fish and fowl (ranging from £23-£36), all cooked in a Chinese oven, which gives everything a the benefit of a barbecue flavour, whilst keeping the flesh wonderfully succulent.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

GALVIN AT WINDOWS

22 Park Lane, London, W1K www.galvinatwindows.com WORDS: SARAH JACKSON

MR FOGG’S

Various locations including Mayfair www.dirtymartini.uk.com WORDS: SARAH JACKSON Opened only seven weeks ago, Mr Fogg’s in Covent Garden is a more intimate version of its predecessor in Mayfair. The story behind the brand is based on the Jules Verne’s famous character Phileas Fogg. According to the novel, whilst Phileas Fogg was travelling around the world, he got the sad news about his aunt Gertrude was dying. She left her whole estate, including her house on St Martin’s lane to him.

Her dying wish was that her lifelong confident and servant Miss Fanny McGee would be allowed to keep the downstairs open as a tavern to entertain all of the aunt’s thespian friends, Gertrude having been quite the actress in her day. Fogg granted her dying wish but kept her upstairs parlour for himself and his friends, so that they could enjoy a quiet drink away from the hustle and bustle of the Victorian London.

As per the novel, the downstairs pub is crowded and lively in contrast to the gentleman’s salon upstairs, which is warm, welcoming and delightfully stylised to look like a turn of the century living room. With a mounted reindeer’s head on the wall, stockings hanging by the fireplace and staff dressed in appropriate garb, not to mention the elegant chaises longues, I am instantly transported to another era and am rather surprised not to find a pocket watch when I delve into my jacket.

The cocktails here are quite simply superb. Each with a sweet and witty name with an expert mix of flavours, I would have tried the whole menu if only I’d had time and the constitution of an elephant. What made them so particularly charming was the total

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

lack of heavy-handedness. Too often bar-men go that one shot or ingredient too far. Not so with Mr Fogg’s. The subtlety and sophistication of these cocktails is a joy to behold (or rather taste). Favourites off the list include: Ophelia’s Pagne Cointreau Noir liqueur shaken with bergamot liqueur, lemon juice and Angostura bitters topped with Moët et Chandon champagne Trans-Siberian Express Russian Standard Platinum vodka, Creme de framboise, fresh lemon juice and pineapple juice topped with Moët and Chandon champagne Dram-Though The Ginoculars Tanqueray No. 10 gin shaken with fresh lime, Cherry Marnier, bitters and Pimento Dram poured over ice and topped with home-made pineapple soda Gertrude’s ‘Take A Bow’ Tonic Botanist gin shaken with tonic syrup and fresh lemon juice.

PAGE 48

After visiting Trader Vic’s on Tuesday, I was very pleased be back there the following evening to review Galvin at Windows, on the 28th floor of the same establishment. Galvin at Windows is without doubt one of the swankiest establishments I’ve been to in a long time. It looks out over London as if a sentinel of style and sophistication, and is run by that Fred guy who does First Dates on ITV. He comes over to greet us on arrival and, you’ll be pleased to know, is just as charming as his TV persona. Everything here is pure class, from the Asian inspired cocktail menu in the bar, to the sommelier (who looks about twelve but certainly knows his stuff), to the capsule menu of impressively mouth-watering grub.

For vegetarians I would highly recommend the salad of Autumn vegetables, remesco, pumpkin and bitter leaves as a starter. If part of the pleasure of eating is a feast for the eyes then this dish will fill your vision to the brim. A delicate mix of fresh, nutty and wood flavours in a gorgeous configuration, even I (a stalwart meat-eater) was nearly on the turn. The other must starter have here is the cured Loch Fyne salmon, Dorset crab, beetroot, horseradish and dill. Plump seasoned flesh, fiery cream and firm fresh vegetables. Absolute perfection.

For your main, both the meat dishes were utterly unmissable. If you’re coming to Galvin, for God’s sake have roasted loin and ragout of South Downs venison, served with reg cabbage, salsify, dark chocolate and roasting jus. Robust yet silky, intense yet subtle, this was the best thing I’ve had the joy of tasting, probably ever.

The fillet of Cambridge beef, foie gras, root vegetables and jus diablo (supplement £6) is superb too, but in my opinion, the venison has the edge. Our sommelier recommended a well rounded 2011 Rioja Crianza with the venison and a deliciously assertive 2007 Bordeaux with the beef. Twelve he might be, but I’d take advice from him any day when it comes to booze. The tasting menu is £75 a head and well worth it, although it must be said that this venue is surely for special occasions From the cocktail menu, you absolutely must try the Swizzle Stick (£16), Martell and Jameson stirred with a touch of ginger and coconut tone and the Geisha (£17), tangy cherry, Absolut Elyx and sweet vanilla finish. The Geisha is particularly stunning in presentation, served in a Chinese style tea cup with burning lavender and a rose on the side.

A lovely touch at Galvin is their offer to send postcards (of Galvin which you’ve written yourself) to any country in the world on your behalf. I sent one down the road to Farnham, but my companion Dina sent one to her parents in Istanbul, so that was pretty special, for her and hopefully for them! (Not to mention a smart and fun marketing ploy!)

THE MERMAID BAR AT THE WRIGHT BROTHERS

58 Old Bromptom Road, SW7 www.thewrightbrothers.co.uk WORDS: KATE WEIR Festive cocktails usually have more spice than a Cinnamon Challenge (wiki it!) and more often that not are doused in Baileys—which is why we like the excellent barkeeps at the Mermaid, the sultry, ‘blink and you’d miss it’ bar below the Wright Brothers bistro on Old Brompton Road. A space with forest-hued stucco walls, a handsome vintage bar and tongue-in-cheek neon signage, drinking the alcoholic equivalent of an ironically bad Xmas jumper here simply wouldn’t do.

The concise and grown-up menu features three classics, given just enough seasonal sparkle to get you merry while maintaining their dignity. We particularly liked the Christmas in Manhattan with spiced Rittenhouse Rye, Antica Formula and Angostura bitters, partially served in a mini ice-bucket to keep your drink fresh. Spiced winter tempers the fruitiness of blueberry and lemon with a slug of red wine, and the Warm Snowflake’s tobacco liqueur gives a welcome smoky kick to dark chocolate cream.

If you’re feeling a bit Scrooge-like, the bar’s trio of Bloody Mary’s go down very well and pair nicely with the bar’s sea-to-plate fare.

We suggest ordering a half dozen oysters to accompany you at the bar (we like the meaty Jerseys from Royal Bay), then delve into the fabulous a la carte – salmon supplied

by Northern Ireland’s oldest smokehouse, crisp-edged Cornwall squid in an inky risotto and chocolate mousse studded with candied pistachios will make you forsake turkey and Christmas pudding.

BOMBAY BRASSERIE Courfield Road, SW7 www.bombayb.co.uk WORDS: KATE WEIR

Bombay Brasserie’s mammoth chandeliers, green-velvet banquettes and golden backlit bar feel suitably Christmassy, even if their menu takes a wild flight of fancy from turkey and trimmings. It’s a welcome diversion; beetrootglazed chicken in tikka sauce, thighs simmered in cream with cashews, and perfectly pliant chunks of delicately spiced lamb (the handiwork of the kitchen’s traditional tandoor oven) add a frisson of excitement to a Christmas feast that turkey just can’t muster.

Silky lentils, sesame-and-spice-gilded potatoes and lightly fried paneer ensure that the season’s forgotten diners – the vegetarians – don’t have to settle for a nut roast: the ‘lump of coal’ of the seasonal set menu. Wash dinner down with subcontinent-nabbed cocktail twists; mojitos muddled with mango and chilli, lycheeinfused martinis and generous measures of Bombay Sapphire Gin. If party protocol allows PAGE 49

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

we highly recommend going ‘off menu’ to attack a bowl of signature dish palak patta chaat (an unctuous bowl of deconstructed pakora, with lightly fried spinach slathered in yoghurt, chutney and pomegranate seeds). The dessert menu is equally inventive, pairing medjool date pudding with a cracked-pepper sauce and stuffing samosas with chocolate—but to end your meal in theatrical fashion, order the cobra coffee. Whipped up on a bar cart in the bar, this flambéed digestif sees spirits poured into flames and twists of orange peel – the eponymous cobra – set alight like a Hells’ Angels tattoo. We’ll take that over a burning pud any day.

TONTERIA

7-12 Sloane Square, London, SW1W www.tonteria.co.uk WORDS: KATE WEIR Half-naked, sparkler-wielding men in neon body paint; throngs of svelte Sloanies; piñatas wheeled out by latex-clad servers wearing oversize calavera heads (colourful Day of the Dead skulls): this is Monday night at Tonteria – a ‘Oaxaca by way of west London’ basement hideaway just off Sloane Square. If this Guy Pelly (Wills and Harry’s mate, and yes the younger royals have graced the VIP section) can make the week’s most insufferable evening a mezc a l- s o a k e d B a cc hanal w i t h added pyrotechnics, the countdown to 2016 should be quite the shindig, especially when the dress code is tantalisingly set at ‘crazy Mexican jungle’ (£10 for women, £15 for men before 22 December 2015; £15 for women, £30 for men after).

Blow your expectations wide open: former parties have seen performers quaffing fire and luchadors grappling on the dance floor.

Dare to bare, and pile on feathers, gilding, masks or perhaps even some talons, and prep with street-food-style picks from the tapas menu; bite-size burritos, panko-crusted squid with spicy tomatillo dip, and pico de gallosmothered sliders will make your inevitable journey down the margarita list (the MangoRita is a moreish, fruity take, and the smoked version feels delightfully sophisticated).

Feeling expansive? Sharing drinks come served in china skulls, locked in cages, and are poured from Mayan pyramids; if that’s not quite theatrical enough, ride the Jose Cuervo express – a toy train that delivers shots to your table – into a New Year’s Day hangover.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

THE WALRUS ROOM

40 Battersea Rise, SW11 www.thewalrusroom.com WORDS: KATE WEIR No monocles, stray whiffs of vintage pomade (upcycled out of a thfit-store bin), or 'chap olympians': this was odd, because we were in a Victoriana-adorned, Lewis Carroll-themed cocktail bar. If the Walrus Room resided in Dalston, accusations of hipsterism would be lobbed its way; but on Battersea Rise, it's a refreshing contrast to the suited-and-booted wine bars on Northcote Road. Plump tufted armchairs and low lighting are remeniscent of a weathered eccentric's drawing room; and the potentially cloying quirkiness of faded lithographs, taxidermy birds and a curio-cabinet-style bar is tempered by a serious cocktail menu. Many signature drinks are named after lines from The Jabberwocky and The Walrus and the Carpenter – the chianti-andCynar-laced Jaws That Bite; The Eldest Oyster, muddled with cognac and hibiscus cordial – and the Forgotten Classics section is a history lesson in liquid form. We dived into the latter, summoning a Corpse Reviver (Hennessy VS and Antica Formula with calvados) and a delicate Mint Julep, both potent yet pleasant. Between sips, you can knock back Colchester rock oysters or tuck into pillowy lobster rolls; however, those too traumatised by the fate of the poem's doomed molluscs can assemble a snacking board from Cornwall-sourced charcuterie and increasingly pungent Brit cheeses. For a nightcap we chose PAGE 50

a complex, sarsaparilla-spiked Deeply Rooted, a liquorice-tinged bourbon-based long drink served with a humbug to sweeten your palette and your sense of whimsy; then, having drunk each one, we trotted home. The eponymous literary walrus has been variously interpreted as the Bhuddha, a cult leader, colonist and capitalist; but for despairing bar hoppers on a night out in Clapham, it's a wellturned-out drinking haven with a cocktail list that's as enjoyable to read as some Carroll-penned nonsense verse.

WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING FOR. AND A LOT MORE...

visit us in store:

KNIGHTSBRIDGE 203 BROMPTON ROAD SOHO & CITY 0207 745 7477 @AmathusKnights knights@amathusdrinks.com

and online: www.amathusdrinks.com

RESTAURANT REVIEWS CHAMBERLAINS

23-25 Leadenhall Market, EC3V www.chamberlainsoflondon.com WORDS: COCO KHAN

MAC AND WILD

When we think of fine food, quite often we think of a single chef. We’re gripped by the idea of the individual genius whose gastronomy is solely his or her creation. Yet tradition would paint an altogether different picture. Cuisine after all begins at home, from recipes and skills passed down through generations, and often the greatest breakthroughs in gastronomy are from ‘food families’ –such as the culinary dynasties of the Rouxs or Arzaks (whom we interview earlier in this edition)—who utilise decades of expertise and transfer it to the restaurant.

The Chamberlains, are a food family whose speciality is fish – indeed you can still find them today selling organic and sustainable sea-fare at Billingsgate Market today. A four generation family founded in 1947, Chamberlain’s restaurant is in the historic Leadenhall Market (a perfect setting for it) and is easily one of the best fish restaurants in London; indeed I think of it as fondly as my experiences at Richard Corrigan’s or Nathan Outlaw’s – starred chefs who also specialise in fish.

The menu feels classically French, though you’ll find the odd bit of Italian fare and contemporary British cooking. You can order from the brasserie menu for something homely, hearty, and dare I say it ‘family’, or there is a wonderful a la carte menu to select from. Ingredients are locally sourced and sustainable, and as the restaurant purchases its ingredients each morning menus can differ day to day. This philosophy extends to the meat dishes (farm to fork) where above all else freshness is key.

We began our evening with a couple of Irish oysters whose taste of the sea perfectly opens the fishy feast to come. The standout starter was the luxurious, multi-textured and unctuous ‘Scallop and Pig’ – roasted and tartare Hand Dived Orkney scallop with Mangalitza brawn & lardo, burnt onion purée, crème fraiche & caviar.

For main, I opted for the Baked Paupiette of Lemon Sole & Crab Mousse, served with butternut squash, forest mushrooms, spring onions & crab cream. I love this style of cooking, where all the fragrances and tastes mingle in with one another so each bite tastes different, and the chef at Chamberlain’s has ensured a variety of textures to keep each mouthful a surprise.

The meat dish my guest opts for similarly has a great bite to it - roasted Breast of partridge, garnished with salt baked celeriac, sprout tops, hazelnut, crispy potato & Maderira jus.

Fragrant, rich, and combined with the selection of wine from the extensive wine list, we’re too full for a dessert of British favourites (including poached pear, cheesecake, and apple crumble).

Leaving the restaurant, and passing the famous ‘cheese grater’ – the Leadenhall building –I am reminded of how the City is changing so rapidly, and thank my lucky stars that a bit of tradition is here to stay.

Those who’ve scoured Whitecross Street Market itching for a fix of The Wild Game Co’s brioche-sandwiched, Béarnaise-slathered, meaty masterpiece – the Veni-Moo burger – should hunt down the plaster stag outside 65 Great Titchfield Street, home of Mac & Wild; the first stationary sit-in from be-kilted deer doyen, Andy Waugh.

Hailing from Inverness-based butchery dynasty, Ardgay Game, Waugh Highland flung himself into London’s burger fray; but he’s leaving the streets behind to compellingly dispel the myth that Scotland’s finest fare is deep-fried.

Mac & Wild’s MO is dishing up more ex-deer than Bambi (its ‘gun-to-plate’ motto, eschews wobbly-lipped sentimentality); however, it seems Ardgay Game’s herd had scattered on the last hunt, as we were informed that venison was off the menu that night; an unfortunate development for a brand whose repute is based on having more game than Richmond Park’s most majestically antlered buck. Our hopes deflated like spent bagpipes; but then, venison tartare tossed with tomato, chilli and a beetroot glaze miraculously materialised, followed by sashimi-style, umamiteasing mackerel (with charred cucumber, edible flowers and a mop-uppable relish); and a bowlful of addictive Wild and Dangerous haggis pops – with whisky sauce for dipping.

In lieu of venison, a perfectly pliant, rosyon-the-inside Aberdeen Angus fillet arrived, with dollops of sweet-sticky turnip purée and a bonemarrow jus, and a cholesterol-taunting bowl of silken mash. Dessert saw the humble Tunnock’s tea cake elevated to an art form: meringue and mallow domes, sprinkled with beetroot, lemon verbena and raspberry sugars, atop an Oreo base, inspired a lot of Rabbie Burns-style rhapsodising.

Overwhelmed by the long list of down-able drams (Teaninich 1973 and 24-year-old Glendronach Grandeur), and Scottish craft beers (William Bros’ Joker IPA, Drygate Bearface lager), we opted for a trio of whisky-laced cocktails: the Forager with lowland whisky, pine tincture and barrel-aged bitters; the floral Auld Pal with chamomile and gorse flower, and dandelion and burdock bitters; and a spicy Ginger Laddie with Port Charlotte Scottish Barley whisky, sweet vermouth and a dash of Bruichladdich port,.

Scandi-Scot interiors (antler motifs, exposed brick, and leather banquettes), a few rustic affectations – scarred wooden tables, sprigs of heather – and the all-important, mystical apothecary wall, will draw a younger crowd than the tartan-smothered Boisdale. Aside from teething problems and a deer drought, Mac & Wild is a joyously patriotic affair where Brits can safely drown their sorrows if a second referendum occurs. Sorry Bambi, but we’ll be back to murder a Veni-Moo soon…

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

65 Great Titchfield St, London W1W www.macandwild.com WORDS: KATE WEIR

MK BAR AND GRILL

25-35 Gloucester Road, London, SW7 www.mkbarandgrill.co.uk WORDS: COCO KHAN MK Bar and Grill is one of the newer openings in the Borough. It’s situated on the Gloucester Road, just a stone’s throw from the station. Readers who know that part of the Borough will know it’s an unusual location; it’s both centrally located but can feel quiet outside of office hours. MK Bar and Grill aims to bridge that gap with its casual eating, brasserie approach.

The décor is contemporary and feels closer to bar than restaurant although there is ample amounts of banquette seating. It’s a large space and you imagine it’s the kind of place that could get very busy after work. Its USP is the idea of “comfort food and steaks” which, as a woman who unashamedly loves a mac-n-cheese is right up my alley.

MK Bar and Grill is an extremely hospitable place – reservation isn’t always necessary and when used, as I found out myself, they are very flexible. Food is served quickly but isn’t without fault – my duck salad starter is crunchy, refreshing and flavoursome but my guest’s starter (French onion soup) is underseasoned. For mains, my partner’s steak is high quality and satisfying but my beef bourguignon is oversalted to my taste.

Overall, MK Bar and Grill feels more like a bar that serves food rather that a formal brasserie but I admittedly have arrived around 9pm.

It’s very difficult to be all things to all people and be affordable. This place is open from 8.30am serving all day—it’s a tall order by anyone’s standards. It may have its flaws, but what it aims to do—to create an all-day space suitable for work and play on Gloucester Road—is very much needed.

PAGE 52

Gavin Scott, Partner

ADVERTORIAL

STOWE FAMILY LAW There are a number of different approaches that can be taken in relation to dividing the finances upon separation and divorce. Each case is different and not all options will be appropriate in all cases. Expert GAVIN SCOTT, Partner at Stowe Family Law, tells us how to reach financial agreement when you split up or divorce.

Since 22 April 2014, it is a requirement that a separating couple attends a MIAM (Mediation Information Assessment Meeting) with a mediator before issuing proceedings at court, to determine whether the case is suitable for mediation.

The government hopes that compulsory MIAMs will prove to be an effective cost cutting measure for the court system. It is important to understand, while in most cases attending MIAM is compulsory, the mediation itself is not.

Negotiations between the parties directly – if the parties are able to reach an agreement between themselves, a Consent Order can be prepared and filed at Court, recording the agreement and the court would be asked to approve the order.

This is to prevent either party attempting to go back on the terms of the order at some point in the future. It is very difficult to challenge the terms of an approved order in the future, unless there are exceptional circumstances. This option is only possible if both parties have a clear picture of the matrimonial finances and it is advisable in every case to have a full and frank exchange of financial disclosure before entering in to any agreement.

Negotiations between solicitors – parties exchange disclosure on a voluntary basis, i.e. without the Court ordering it, with a view to

negotiating an early settlement, outside of the court arena. This option is suitable when both parties are open to reaching a fair settlement and are prepared to make reasonable concessions.

If one party is unwilling to negotiate or provide financial disclosure, this is usually apparent from an early stage and financial remedy proceedings can be issued.

Litigation – the financial remedy procedure is a three stage Court process: First Appointment - This is a short attendance required at Court to decide how the case should proceed and on what timetable. Directions are given about the valuations of assets, where necessary, and when questionnaires should be answered and any further directions required to help further the proceedings before the Financial Dispute Resolution hearing.

Financial Dispute Resolution (FDR) - This is held at Court on a without prejudice basis, to try negotiate settlement. The Judge listens to both parties’ point of view as to how the case should be settled and will then give his/her own view on how a settlement should be reached before encouraging the parties to settle. The majority of cases settle at this point.

PAGE 53

Final Hearing - If the parties cannot reach an agreement at the FDR or thereafter, the case proceeds to a Final Hearing. Both parties will be cross examined and the Judge will then decide what order they think is appropriate and the parties will have that order imposed upon them. Very few cases reach this stage of the proceedings.

It is very important, at every stage of dealing with a divorce that consideration is given to seeing whether the finances can be settled by agreement without incurring significant legal fees.

Early advice is essential.

Gavin Scott is a Partner (and mediator) at Stowe Family Law, 8 Fulwood Place, Gray’s Inn, London WC1V 6HG. If you have questions regarding Divorce, or any aspect of Family Law, please email gavin.scott@ stowefamilylaw.co.uk. All enquiries will be treated as strictly private and confidential.

Further information and articles on various aspects of Family Law and the Firm can also be found on our Blog at www.marilynstowe.co.uk. We hold a free legal advice clinic (30 minute appointments) on a daily basis between 12pm and 2pm and on a Monday evening between 5pm and 7pm. Please call to make an appointment on 020 7421 3300.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

PAGE 50 44

LIVING OUT YOUR BOND DREAM IN STYLE In the heart of sophisticated Mayfair, KCR Founder SID RAGHAVA pays a visit to the ultra-luxe Dukes Hotel.

‘Legend has it that Ian Fleming regularly frequented the bar and it was thought to be the original inspiration for that most famous of lines - ‘’shaken not stirred”.’

Dukes Hotel, holds court at the intersection of St. James Street and St. James Place smack in the middle of the sophistication that is Mayfair in a 16th Century building which was originally conceived by Henry the VIIIth. It is one of the most luxurious boutique hotels in London which is further complemented by the influx of famous writers, poets, politicians, musicians, and royalty having passed through the historic property.

The hotel is an epicurean’s delight from the carefully curated rooms and suites, to the delectable food, and divine mixology.

There is plenty to satiate your Bondesque desires at DUKES. Maybe start at the eponymous bar? After all, legend has it that Ian Fleming regularly frequented the bar, and it does indeed deliver on its reputation of serving up some of the best martinis in the world. Thought to be the original inspiration for that most famous of lines - ‘’shaken not stirred’ - the Dukes Martini is a man’s drink! A bit of sexist language seems bizarrely like the best way to do justice to its oxlike intensity. Shaken or stirred, it all does whirl you into a 007 warp hole. The Cognac and Cigar Garden and the Champagne Lounge provide the perfect ambience for a lazy afternoon soon to segue into a hazy and heady evening. Be sure to make friends with Alessandro Palazzi, the master barman at Dukes Bar. Amongst his many creations is Fleming 89, a new martini which celebrates the link between the bar and Fleming’s superspy creation. The drink boasts olfactory assistance from Floris, the London perfumery, whose “89” fragrance was famously worn by James Bond.

After a thorough exploration of the bar, PAGE 55

head for culinary temptations at Nigel Mendhams classy yet relaxed offering, Thirty-Six. The refined British cuisine has stars in its repertoire ranging from light and fresh South Coast Scallops, to the rich and meaty Goosenargh Duck and Rump of Lamb. Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner are all on offer but for afternoon tea, Gin and Tonic, or simply a glass of fizz, stroll over to the Drawing Room and Conservatory. The hotel also boasts a Health Club which offers premium massages, bespoke facials and essential grooming.

All rooms and suites at DUKES afford the minimum luxury of a queen-size bed. The rooms also feature interactive flat screen televisions, large writing desks, in-room safes, marble ensuite bathrooms and high end toiletries from Ren. For the upcoming festive season, there are offers galore including a Family Christmas Package as well as an Ultimate Christmas package for two.

Non residents can avail of Festive Afternoon Tea or the Xmas Eve Dinner Menu.

A brisk walk gets you to Buckingham Palace witin 5-10 minutes and Green Park tube is just around the corner. All the treasures of London are a stone’s throw away. But, should you want to simply indulge in the wonderful luxuries that James Bond himself would approve off, DUKES Hotel has all of the options. Shaken or stirred, it all comes together very well!

DUKES Hotel Address: 35 St James’s Pl, London SW1A 1NY, United Kingdom +44 20 7491 4840 Rooms start at £208 - £527 per night. www.dukeshotel.com

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

THE KINGS HEAD HOTEL: CIRENCESTER If the bright lights and big city has started to give you urban fatigue, it might be time for a countryside retreat – and you could do worse.

HOLLY BAXTER heads to Cirencester, the self-styled capital of the Cotswolds.

In reality a small market town, complete with weekly farmers’ market and uniform stone buildings, it makes for the ideal London escape: with a train station (Kemble) just ten minutes’ drive away, an abundance of local shops and a charmingly sleepy nature, it manages to nail ‘rural escape’ without being ‘stranded in an outpost in the middle of nowhere with no drinking hole in sight’.

In the centre of Cirencester’s small High Street stands what looks like a nondescript pub.

Peer a little closer, however, and you’ll see that the conversion behind the chic glass doors is anything but. What used to be a run-down building is now a bar, restaurant and hotel where the country’s well-heeled gentry comes for a tipple after an afternoon of horse-riding.

With Prince Charles’ abode Highgrove only minutes down the road, this is an enclave not unused to aristocratic Hunter wellies crossing the threshold.

The Kings Head Hotel is a modern take on an ancient building that manages to be cosy, not stuffy, and stylish, not crass. In the basement, once a dusty maze of wine cellars, there now sits a luxurious spa (or “subterranean dry space”, as they have it) offering the latest in Lubatti treatments, where you are invited to lounge in relaxation areas and enjoy champagne in the Jacuzzi at your leisure. Nobody taps their watch or waits impatiently for you to finish. The target demographic may hail from London, but the attitude doesn’t.

It’s difficult to find anything to criticise in the lovingly restored hotel, where staff will offer to light an open fire as you relax with a glass of wine in the bar and suites are generously proportioned, beds are comfortable and bathrooms are large (and, crucially, spotlessly clean). Space is wellthought-out and never skimped on for profit: the

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

hotel has only 45 rooms, when double the amount could easily have fit. Instead, staff-to-guest ratios are excellent, and suites are big enough to lounge in. Their modern amenities, additionally, are excellent, with superfast WiFi and smart TVs in every room.

The restaurant, where a sommelier will happily recommend and deliver thoughtfully catalogued wines per course, offers delicious if slightly unimaginative food accompanied by a wine list that’s extensive and much more creative. The service from head staff is excellent, while the general waiters are clearly slightly slapdash students paying their Saturday job dues. However, the atmosphere is bright and welcoming, and there is no pressure to vacate your table even if you do continue taking the sommelier’s recommendations until midnight.

What’s perhaps nicest about the Kings Head is the fact that it caters in architecturally stunning surroundings to as many locals as visitors.

Members of the Cirencester Agricultural College and residents of the town’s picturesque cottages rub shoulders with Londoners on holiday with great ease, and friendly repartee between both kinds of guests is encouraged and facilitated by the wide, warm open areas and the laidback bartenders who are happy to talk you through the local specialties.

With regular offers on short getaways and an array of hidden, beautifully restored rooms which can be used for business meetings and even weddings, grabbing yourself a ticket to Cirencester and kicking back on one of the rustic hostel’s many leather sofas for a weekend is inexpensive and highly recommended. For true luxury and artful Kensington chic, this is a version of the countryside that would appeal to even the most committed urbanites.

PAGE 56

‘With Prince Charles’ abode Highgrove only minutes down the road, this is an enclave not unused to aristocratic Hunter wellies crossing the threshold.’

WAX IN THE CITY 370 King’s Rd, London SW3 5ET WORDS: COCO KHAN WHAT IS IT? Wax in the City is a waxing company from Germany. Like all things German, its USP is fast, efficient waxing that is available without appointment, primarily because all they offer is waxing. Finally! A place you can drop into last minute, and it even has extended hours for people working until 6.

Its salons are set up to be unisex – they are white and minimal rather than pink and fluffy – and all the staff are trained in their unique style of hair removal.

WHICH IS? Wa x i n th e C i ty o ffe r str i p l e ss waxing.

They use their own specially formulated wax rich in honey, which is then spread onto the client hot. It cools quickly, hardening around the hair and subsequently removing it when pulled off.

DOES IT WORK? Yes, absolutely. This kind of waxing is practised in many high-end places (Harrods to name one) though the type of wax used is unique to Wax in the City. The argument is, this method means the hair is pulled out from the roots therefore reducing the thickness and speed of hair regrowth. It hurts, that’s for sure. For those used to strip waxing the feel of hot wax alone is enough to make you yelp, but the results last long and feel good.

PAGE 57

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

MOTORING

NEW YEAR, NEW MOTORS KCR Motoring Editor LISA CURTISS picks her favourite new releases.

PORSCHE TAKES ITS 911 TURBOS TO A NEW LEVEL The top models in Porsche’s hallowed 911 range now boast increased performance, a sharper design and greater everyday usability. The stunning new Turbo and Turbo S are scheduled to debut at the North American International Auto Show in the new year.

Available in both coupe and convertible versions, the output from the twin-turbocharged, 3.8-litre flat-six engine in the 911 rises to 540 hp , whilst the Turbo S’ increases to an impressive 580 hp, capable of a blistering 2.9 second 0-62mph sprint, courtesy of new turbochargers with larger compressors.

These new generation 911 Turbo models adopt significant characteristics of the striking design of the latest Carrera models. The newly-formed nose with side-mounted airblades, precisely laid out narrow LED front lights with double fillets and revised central air intake give the front end a wider, even more aggressive look.

In profile, the high-performance sports car boasts new design 20-inch diameter wheels and door handles and completely new rear body styling.

Particularly eye-catching are the three-dimensional style rear lights with four-point brake lights and ‘aura-style’ illumination, and the grille plus exit openings and dual tailpipes of the exhaust system – all combining to give the impression of unbridled power and performance.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

The chassis of the new 911 Turbo models with Porsche Active Suspension Management (PASM) as standard offers an even greater spread between performance and comfort. In addition, the 911 Turbo S offers a full complement of equipment for dynamic driving: Porsche Dynamic Chassis Control (PDCC) roll compensation is standard as is the Porsche Ceramic Composite Brakes (PCCB) system.

New options for all 911 Turbo models include the radar-based lane change assist and a lift system for the front axle that can be used to increase ground clearance by 40 mm at the front spoiler lip at low speeds.

On sale now, prices from £126,925 to £154,614 and customers will also be invited to explore the potential of their new car, and further develop their own skills behind the wheel, by participating in a bespoke driving experience around the tracks at the recently-extended Porsche Experience Centre, Silverstone.

PAGE 58

VOLVO LAUNCHES ITS SPORTIEST EVER XC90 Those desiring a spacious, stylish and sporty 7-seater SUV look no further than Volvo’s new R-Design award-winning XC90. Featuring a range of design, dynamic and equipment upgrades, it’s sportier, more distinctive and luxurious than ever before.

New attractive 20 – inch alloys, silver effect mirrors, tinted rear windows and a gloss black front grill enhance the exterior, whilst cabin improvements include leather/nubuck sports seats, a 12.3-inch active TFT driver’s information display and a leather-trimmed steering wheel with gearshift paddles. The passenger seat is powered with memory function now, and there’s sports pedals, black headlining and upgraded interior lighting.

R-Design models come with Drive Mode Settings and Adjustable Steering Force as standard. This is on top of the already generous standard specification of entry-level models, which includes a nine-inch touch screen control system, Sensus Navigation, two-zone climate control with Volvo’s ground-breaking CleanZone air quality system, LED headlights, poweroperated tailgate with handsfree opening, and the Volvo On Call mobile app.

Being a Volvo, naturally there’s a raft of state-of-the-art safety equipment including City Safety, which features pedestrian and cyclist detection, and front collision warning with full auto brake, driver alert control with lane departure warning, and front, side and full-length curtain airbags.

R-Design versions are available with Volvo’s acclaimed D5 diesel and T6 petrol Drive-E engines, and in T8 Twin Engine petrol-electric hybrid form.

Prices start at £49,785.

PAGE 59

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

RANGE ROVER EVOQUE CONVERTIBLE: A CONVERTIBLE FOR ALL SEASONS The ground breaking and distinctive shape of the original Range Rover Evoque lends itself to an elegant convertible design and the new model sits at the pinnacle of the Evoque portfolio as the most exclusive and capable convertible in the world.

As the fifth member of the Range Rover family – and the first ever convertible – the highly desirable new model combines traditional Range Rover luxury with a distinctive four-seat design and versatile storage.

The Range Rover Evoque Convertible has been engineered to meet Land Rover’s most rigorous standards, ensuring exceptional structural rigidity, trademark refinement, outstanding levels of safety and unrivalled breadth of capability.

Gerry McGovern, Land Rover Design Director and Chief Creative Officer, commented: “Range Rover Evoque Convertible is a vehicle for all seasons. Its uniquely distinctive design and world-class engineering adds another dimension to the Range Rover family, further enhancing its desirability and appeal.”

The global SUV market is forecast to grow by 20 per cent over the next five years* and Evoque Convertible will play a key role in continuing Range Rover’s 45-year success story, pioneering an all-new SUV sector.

Evoque Convertible’s eye-catching exterior design is made possible by a sophisticated fabric roof shaped to create a crisply defined silhouette that remains faithful to the original design. Its Z-fold mechanism lays flush with the rear bodywork for a sleek, uncluttered appearance when lowered.

The fabric roof is the longest and widest currently fitted to any vehicle on sale today.

The fully-automated roof stows in 18 seconds, and can be raised in 21 seconds, at speeds up to 30mph. When closed it provides high standards of refinement with a layer of acoustic insulation ensuring interior comfort on a par with five-door Evoque. In addition, the position of the roof doesn’t affect loadspace, with a generous 251-litre boot offering unrivalled practicality for a convertible.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

At the heart of the high-class cabin is an all-new, high-resolution 10.2inch touchscreen with Jaguar Land Rover’s next-generation infotainment system, InControl Touch Pro, which debuts in a Land Rover. Raising the standard of connectivity for the brand, the highly-responsive and super-fast InControl Touch Pro offers seamless smartphone integration, door-to-door navigation, 3G connectivity and a premium sound system.

Safety hasn’t been overlooked with a Roll-Over Protection Device featuring deployable roll-over bars hidden in the rear bodywork. It deploys two aluminium bars within 90milliseconds in the unlikely event of a roll-over situation to create a survival space for occupants.

Land Rover’s full suite of lightweight, all-aluminium four-cylinder petrol and diesel engines is available with the potent 240PS Si4 petrol providing outstanding levels of performance and refinement.

Diesel power comes from Land Rover’s 2.0-litre Ingenium engines which provide highly efficient and refined performance with fuel economy up to 55mpg (5.1 l/100km) and CO2 emissions as low as 149g/km.

Evoque Convertible is underpinned by Land Rover’s world-class allterrain capability, using the same advanced technologies as Evoque five-door and Coupé derivatives. A customary choice of four-wheel drive powertrains combines with Land Rover’s nine-speed automatic transmission, Terrain Response® system, Wade Sensing and All-Terrain Progress Control to ensure Evoque is a convertible for all seasons.

The new Range Rover Evoque Convertible will be produced at Land Rover’s Halewood plant in the UK, alongside the five door and Coupé bodystyles, and goes on sale across from Spring 2016 in more than 170 markets worldwide.

Pricing in the UK will start from £47,500 OTR based on a TD4 HSE Dynamic derivative.

PAGE 56

Neal’s Yard Remedies

Supports skin’s

night-time regeneration

Helps to reduce the appearance of

lines & wrinkles

Clinically proven to moisturise for up to 24 hours

FREE Organic Night Time Tea with every purchase in-store* your perfect combination for a beautiful night

King’s Road

High St Kensington

Notting Hill

SW3 4TR

W8 4LF

W11 2JA

*FREE box of 18 teabags (worth £2.99) with every product purchase, excluding Gift Vouchers, Therapies & Courses, from the three stores listed above only. Simply quote FREETEA14 at the till. Offer from 26th September 2014, for a limited time only, while stocks last. One box of tea per customer.

No cash or other alternatives available. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer.