Kensington and Chelsea Review Spring 2019

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VOLUME FIVE| ISSUE ONE | FREE

The Spring Issue Hatching our travel plans, plus dining, design and more in the Borough


THE ULTIMATE THREE DAY SUMMER CELEBRATION!

Celebrating

10 years

S N O T ESTER

CH

O L PO HE T IN K R A P Hurlingham Park, Fulham ticketmaster.co.uk | polointheparklondon.com


CHRISTIAN DIOR BY JOHN GALLIANO (B.1960), HAUTE COUTURE, AUTUMN/WINTER 2004 PHOTO © LAZIZ HAMANI | DIOR HÉRITAGE COLLECTION, PARIS

Welcome to the latest issue of Kensington and Chelsea Review. Filled with art, auction, culture and luxury, Kensington and Chelsea Review is the magazine for the rather discerning resident of the Royal Borough.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW


THE ORIGINAL TRAVEL TOWEL Light • Compact • Absorbent • Quick Drying • Versatile • Sand Free The Best Gifts to Send Them Packing this Holiday FREE travel or tote bag with every purchase! Smart Cotton • Smart Life Come in to see the full range at the Pop-Up Shop: 341 King’s Road, Chelsea Open every day from 10am to late!


Editors’ Letter We’ve seen the first hopeful rays of sun in the Royal Borough, and we’re in full planning mode for Hyde Park picnics, dining alfresco on Exhibition Road and praying that the new Kensington Roof Gardens open with more expediency than the Elizabeth Line. But, as there’s still a nip in the air, we abandoned those plans for hopping on a plane to the sunnier climes of St Lucia, Brazil, Mexico and Oman. Then kept it cool on a Norwegian cruise and Scottish minibreak.

PUBLISHER Talismanic Media FOUNDER AND MANAGING DIRECTOR Sid Raghava CHIEF EDITOR Kate Weir ART DIRECTOR Harriet Bedder MOTORING EDITOR Lisa Cur tiss

We discovered the prettiest spring botanicals: The Rose hotel new to the Kent riviera, and Petersham Nurseries’ Covent Garden outpost. We indulged in American comfort food and Indian feasts, and gorged ourselves on the lavish haute couture of Christian Dior. And, we mused on some eye-catching new artwork. Plus, there’s all the news fit to print in Kensington and Chelsea and our round-up of beauty, dining and driving… The KCR Team

THE KENSINGTON & CHELSEA TEAM

Contents 4.

News

10.

Art and Design

20.

Gift Guide

24.

Travel

45.

Dining

53.

Beauty

64.

Drive

OFFICE MANAGER Lee Marrero SALES MANAGER Joseph McConville CONTRIBUTORS Sid Raghava, Kate Weir, Harriet Bedder, Sarah Rodrigues, Sue Saunders, Emma Harrison, Sarah Lavigne, Andrew Coles, Lisa Curtiss, Madévi Dailly, Dominic Walker and Clémence Randon. All material in Kensington and Chelsea Review is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system without prior permission of the publishers. Colour transparencies and photographs submitted for publication are sent at the owners’ risk and while every care is taken, neither the publisher nor their agents accept liability for loss or damage however caused. The publishers can accept no liability whatsoeverof nature arising out of nor in connection with the contents of this publication. Opinions expressed within the articles are not necessarily those of Kensington and Chelsea Review and any issues arising therefore should be taken up directly with the contributor.

Explore the latest openings, exhibitions and events from the borough and beyond.

Intricate scribblings and divine dresses: what’s on view. What we want the Easter bunny to bring us… Heavenly hideaways for the changeover season, late winter sun and a chic British seaside break. New and classic restaurants with spring flavours and indulgent extras. Your spring beauty round-up. The sleekest rides to be seen in this spring.

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READ ALL ABOUT IT A rundown of news, from the worlds of art and culture (plus the items that intrigue us), all handpicked for the Royal Borough resident. BASTIAN Bastian presents Andy Warhol Polaroid Pictures, the inaugural exhibition at the gallery’s London space. A series of over 60 portrait/self-portrait Polaroids by Andy Warhol – some on show for the first time – depict artists politicians and friends of his Factory entourage. This is an intimate portrayal of New York in the 1970/80s during the establishment of a new visual culture. It includes Self-Portrait (1979), and stars figures such as David Hockney and John Lennon. www.bastian-gallery.com

FINE FOODS MARKET AT CHELSEA CREEK Chelsea Creek, the waterside development by St George, is now hosting the weekly artisan Fine Food Markets by Lunch Out, every Thursday. They’ll offer a variety of market stalls from local suppliers and surrounding areas. Visitors can expect freshly baked bread, cakes and other baked goods from a beloved Borough Market bread stall, alongside artisan cheeses, a bespoke honey stall, and biltong stall. A short walk from the development, Fine Food Markets takes place outside Imperial Wharf Station every Thursday from 10am till 3pm. www.chelseacreek.co.uk.

15TH ANNIVERSARY OF COLLECT, SAATCHI Collect: the International Art Fair for Modern Craft and Design 2019 (28 February to 3 March) is celebrating 15 years in London. Collect is the only gallery-presented art fair dedicated to modern craft and design. See 40 galleries from three continents in attendance, with items priced from £1,000 to over £100,000. It’s a platform to present exceptional and conceptual new works and installations on a larger scale. Virtually all works released are by living artists – with the majority created especially for Collect 2019. www.craftscouncil.org.uk

BEL MOND Belmond’s first London property will include 400 pieces of original art and a restaurant overseen by chef patron Adam Handling. The Belmond Cadogan Hotel has 54 rooms in five restored 19th-century buildings. The interiors reflect modern British style, but take inspiration from the hotel’s original features. Guests can access the private Cadogan Place gardens - formerly the botanic gardens. For complete privacy, a residential entrance will be accessible via Pont Street. www.belmond.com

© CROWN BY JAMES RIGLER PHOTO BY TONY HAY - EXHIBITED BY CRAFT SCOTLAND

© 2018 THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS, INC. LICENSED BY DACS, LONDON. COURTESY BASTIAN, LONDON

KANISHKA BY ATUL KOCHHAR Atul Kochhar, the first Indian chef to receive a Michelin star, will launch Kanishka on Mayfair’s Maddox Street in March. It will aim to explore lesser-known regions. The menu will explore flavours and cooking methods of the Seven Sister States, as well as influences from Nepal, China, and Bangladesh. Signature dishes will include a Sikkiminspired venison tartare with mustard-oil mayonnaise and naan crouton, and panseared seafood with Alleppey sauce and smoked cabbage poriyal.

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DEFINE CLINIC Launching on Harley Street in March, Define Clinic brings together the expertise of Drs Benji Dhillon, Mark Hughes and Slaine McGrath, renowned practitioners in the fields of facial aesthetics and cosmetic dentistry. The trio represent a first for the industry; never before has the synergy between the disciplines been available for clients to explore under one roof. A trademarked consultation process and facial assessment ensures that the best results are achieved for the client for both the face and the smile. www.defineclinic.com


COYA’S A M A ZONIAN BRUNCH COYA Angel Court have launched an Amazonian party brunch to fill your Saturdays with bottomless pisco sours, champagne, live music and Peruvian fare. Throughout this 3-hour affair you’ll dine on tacos, bao buns and anticuchos, an unlimited ceviche, beef tataki and kingfish tiradito with truffle oil. The space will be decked out in jungle finery and a DJ will set the tone, playing tribal beats and uplifting house music. The first weekend of each month will star a special-edition brunch. www.coyarestaurant.com

HARI’S SALON Since launching last year on Fulham Road, Hari’s new Herbal Hair Salon has gone from strength to strength. From organic colour boosters to herbal treatments, the new flagship salon boasts a natural ‘go green’ inspired hair menu and a space to revive and refresh. Treatments include the Mighty Mineral Mask, a centuries-old treatment used by Persian women to gently cleanse and strengthen hair plus Gentle Magic Wash, an all-natural shampoo cure for dry, frizz-prone hair. www.harissalon.com

L.K. BENNETT HOLIDAY EDIT What is the ideal dress code for flouncing down a cobbled Italian alleyway, strutting through the Tuileries or skipping up Santorini’s hillsides? Luxury brand L.K. Bennett have the answer with their new range of flirty sun and shirt dresses, brightly hued espadrilles and sweet straw totes. Designed to dazzle under the sun, yet allow for decadent holiday meals (we especially love the roomy Rego dress). From early April, ready your suitcase for a whole new holiday wardrobe. www.lkbennett.com

KINDRED SPIRIT Kindred is a members’ club for those who want to amplify their work and have a more dynamic social life. Housed in a Grade IIlisted building in Hammersmith, the club encourages members to get to know each other, share their ideas and treat the house like home. From the speaker supper club series (the club has ties with TEDtalks) and breakfast networking, plus a communaldining concept with the tastiest food – Kindred holds human connection at its heart and has become a stronghold for community. www.wearekindred.com

THE MOXIE PORTOBELLO - CREATIVE COLLECTIVE LAUNCHED IN DECEMBER 2018 The launch of The Moxie (a new creative collective from the music, art, fashion and film industries) opened the doors of Notting Hill’s famous Rainbow House to over 350 guests, ranging from emerging and established creatives, VIPs and HNWs to selected media. With three unique floors of creative mayhem, guests enjoyed the art of contemporary artist and model Barbara Safronova, and Mikki Trusova whose significant art sales raised money for the Grenfell Children and Young People’s Fund.

‘SS 2019, REGO FLAME BRODERIE DRESS, £350

DUKES X RÉMY MARTIN London institution Dukes Mayfair have teamed up with fine-drinks brand Rémy Martin for the relaunch of their Cognac and Cigar garden. The new space relaunched in early March and patrons can relax with a Cuban and a snifter from Dukes’ extensive menus on comfy couches in the heart of London’s ritziest ‘hood. Nightly rates for a room at Dukes London start from £320 inclusive of VAT and full English breakfast. www.dukeshotel.com.

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NOT POINTLESS Fitzdares’ ‘The Sports Quiz You Can’t Google’ took place on 13th February at James Blunt’s stylish Chelsea pub The Fox and Pheasant, where a list of VIPs competed against each other, prompting numerous lively debates. Hosted by Pointless star Richard Osman, VIP guests included Clara Paget, Zara Martin, Phineas Page, Jack Freud, Zafar Rushdie, Alistair Guy, Chris Baber, William and Lady Laura Cash and Jana Haveman. www.fitzdares.com www.thefoxandpheasant.com

PAXTON & WHITFIELD EN ESPAÑA The UK’s oldest cheesemonger, supplier to Selfridges, Harrods and Michelin-starred restaurants, has a new range of artisan Spanish cheeses for customers to enjoy. The range features classics from Paxtons’ new producers, as well as some more unusual ones for cheese lovers to savour. The range hails from different geographical regions of Spain. From Rey Silo Massimo, made in the Asturias, through to Sujaira, made in mountains south of Cordoba: the quality and flavour of these cheeses shows Paxton’s commitment for seeking out exceptional products. www.paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk

THE ROYAL PARKS APPOINTS DARREN WOODWARD The Royal Parks charity has appointed Darren Woodward as the new Director of Estates and Projects. Woodward joins The Royal Parks from Rider Levett Bucknall. During his 15 years at the company, he worked in partnership with The Royal Parks, managing high-profile projects including the Hyde Park Super Nursery and the restoration of the Henry Moore Arch in Kensington Gardens. His new position will see him oversee the delivery of major capital projects, as well as being responsible for the maintenance of the built estate. www.royalparks.org.uk

OVER UNDER COFFEE Launched on 14 January, this coffeehouse, located opposite the station at West Brompton Crossing, will provide caffeine-starved locals with much needed specialty coffee. Designed by BC Interiors, this second outpost will also feature grab-and-go snacks, such as Protein Pots, Cacao Overnight Oats and Sally Clarke pastries, alongside single-origin coffee roasted by the team at Assembly Brixton. Milk will be sourced from Estate Dairy, which sustainably farms over 500 acres of Somerset pastures, while dairy alternatives will be provided by Oatly and Rude Health. www.overundercoffee.com

ZARA MARTIN, CLARA PAGET, JANA HAVEMAN AND PHINEAS PAGE

NO. FIFT Y CHEYNE No. Fifty Cheyne, a new restaurant and bar on the Chelsea Embankment has just launched in February after a nine-month renovation of the infamous Cheyne Walk Brasserie. A complete rebuild has achieved the ‘introduction of a new lease of life into a longstanding Chelsea institution’ says Founder and Chelsea local Sally Greene, Founding Director of the Old Vic Theatre and proprietor of Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club. Set across two floors, the new local will offer a dining experience, headed up by Chef Iain Smith (previously head chef at Jason Atherton’s Social Eating House). Seasonal ingredients, centred around an open grill, will create a modern British menu. www.fiftycheyne.com

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SLIM CHICKENS Cluck yeah! Slim Chickens have brought their brand of buttermilk-marinated tenders, chicken sandwiches, Southern sides (fried pickles, mac’ and cheese…), and 13 dipping sauces to the corner of Old Compton Street. Soho guests can expect true Southern hospitality – service with a smile, American sports events and only the best modern blues soundtracks. Already a huge hit in the US, with over 80 stores, the UK flagship restaurant opened in spring 2018 on James Street, followed by Cardiff in December. Plans are being hatched to expand to other UK cities this year. www.slimchickens.com


YOUNG PICASSO New documentary film Young Picasso has been showing in 20+ cinemas across London since February. It tells the story of how Picasso’s early years shaped his rise to international fame. The film provides insights into the first 25 years of his life, cultimating in the creation of Les Demoiselles d’Avignon, a painting considered so shocking by the art establishment that it was hidden away for a decade. Created by Exhibition on Screen, in close collaboration with five major European museums in Málaga, Barcelona and Paris, Young Picasso is a fascinating look into the artist’s masterpieces, with insight from historians, curators, letters, and Picasso’s grandson Olivier Widmaier Picasso. www.exhibitiononscreen.com

GINA CONWAY SALON Gina Conway heads up three successful Aveda Lifestyle salons in London. Her clientele includes Maggie Gyllenhaal, Sienna Miller and Paloma Faith. A new Academy ensures on-point education for trainees of both Gina and other salons’ apprentices. The Barber Shop has now launched in Gina’s Notting Hill Salon, offering bespoke grooming services for the modern London male. It will provide men’s services from a classic quick barber cut to a whole customised grooming experience with signature haircuts, men’s nail services, hot-towel shaves and men’s facials. Featuring Aveda’s Men’s products. www.ginaconwaysalons.co.uk

PROUD CENTRAL – THE DIOR COLLECTION The Dior Collection is an exhibition of fashion photography, open until 7 April, showcasing the legendary designs of Christian Dior and the house’s enduring impact on the fashion world. Documenting this remarkable brand throughout its first two decades, the exhibition displays the iconic works of Mark Shaw, Norman Parkinson, Jerry Schatzberg and Bert Stern. From the polished editorial shots capturing well-known figures for Life magazine, to behind-the-scenes studio snapshots, The Dior Collection explores the creation of this revolutionary luxury brand and its reinvention of the female silhouette. www.proudonline.co.uk

PIPPA & COMPANY Pippa & Co is renowned for its luxury dog-beds and accessories. Founder Jennifer Taylor started it when, after renovating her house, she couldn’t find a dog bed to match her new decor. The brand offer British-influenced townhouse and country-home styles. The former borrows from contemporary metropolitan designs while the country range borrows from England’s green and pleasant bits. Both collections uses heritage fabrics (tweeds, twills, checks) and beds can be customised to suit preferences. And, two styles in the townhouse collection particularly drew our attention: the Kensington and the Chelsea. www.pippaandcompany.co.uk

PABLO PICASSO, LES DEMOISELLES D’AVIGNON,1907, OIL ON CANVAS. ACQUIRED THROUGH THE LILLIE P. BLISS BEQUEST (BY EXCHANGE) © SUCCESSION PICASSO_DACS, LONDON 2018

TOWNHOUSE AT THE KENSINGTON Town House at The Kensington announced their new London Landmarks Afternoon Tea in January. Following the success of their record-breaking Tale As Old As Time offering, the new Afternoon Tea takes inspiration from London’s most recognisable and historic landmarks, taking diners on a tour of the capital’s most famed structures. Tributes featured on the landmark-inspired menu include The Gherkin (white chocolate with a dark-chocolate ganache) and The Shard (carrot cake and milk chocolate). The new London Landmarks Afternoon Tea is complete with London’s quintessential treat, scones served with Heather Hills strawberry jam and clotted cream. www.townhousekensington.com

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WEDDING PRESENT CO The Wedding Present Co specialise in luxury wedding gift lists for the most discerning couples and have an exclusive showroom on the King’s Road, London. Products include great gifts for winter weddings or for keen travellers. With over 300 brands to choose from, including big-name must-haves to small bespoke artisans and an unlimited number of custom products from any UK supplier of your choice, it is the perfect place to shop for special occasions. www.weddingpresentco.com

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ADVERTORIAL

INTRODUCING APRIORI TOOTHBRUSHES: ENDURING LUXURY & INIMITABLE STYLE​ Why not experience the exceptional everyday? Apriori are the creators of exceptional toothbrushes designed to look, feel and perform at the highest standards. ​Using materials and processes more commonly used in the watch industry to create high-quality timepieces, painstakingly assembled, engraved and hand-finished in the UK by a small team of artisans from the jewellery industry, Apriori has created two innovative collections of toothbrushes. The Apriori Ceramic Edition toothbrushes are made from the finest ceramic materials, with high-gloss finishes and gold or silver features. The range is available in white and gold (£990), white and silver (£990), black and gold (£1,090) and black and silver (£1,090). For a sportier feel, the Apriori Carbon Edition range is sleek and lightweight. The ultramodern design uses forged carbon fibre, made exclusively in Italy, inspired by the automotive and sports industries. Due to the unique nature of the material, no two toothbrushes are identical. The Apriori Carbon is available in gold and silver editions (both £790). All toothbrushes come with their own elegantly designed travel case, a toothbrush holder, and two spare heads, one medium, and one soft. Made of the same materials as the toothbrush handle, the holder is the perfect accessory, with an anti-slip rubber base to ensure it stays in place. And if you're travelling, the unified aesthetic of Apriori products comes into its own – an exceptionally designed travel case enables the customer to take their Apriori product with them wherever they are in the world. Each toothbrush carries a one-year warranty covering all manufacturing defects Why miss out on pure luxury when it comes to everyday items? Apriori toothbrushes are available to buy via www.apriori.global

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GONE TO POT

‘They could be the results of automatic drawings where the viewer is left to conjure the spirit, a rumbling from deep within Plato’s cave.’

CONTEMPLATING MARIAN FANNON CHRISTIAN’S CREATURES FROM THE DEEP…

UNEXPECTED FORMS

KENSINGTON KENSINGTON & & CHELSEA CHELSEA REVIEW REVIEW

On seeing her show at Zari Gallery, ‘Tying Secrets to Poetry’, one might think artist Marian Fannon Christian had a lifetime of sketchpad-filling behind her. However, her drawings fomented in a curious mind before coming to fruition one day in India, when she uttered the simple, career-starting statement ‘I feel like drawing’ and put pen to paper. Talent doesn’t always need the bolstering of experience and her organic compositions, that bear the vital sprawl of cells and organisms blown up under a microscope’s lens, have thrived in a fertile subconscious biosphere. Fannon Christian has lived in Hong Kong, the Philippines, India, Indonesia, Ireland and the UK, and this roaming has influenced the colour and form of her work. Delicate lacy abstractions, Holibright daydreams of doodles, off-piste snowflakes and illustrations for avantgarde fashions that this writer would like to see on parade all form part of her canon. PAGE 10 There’s a needling, obsessive quality to her work that keeps it from being anything so blah as ‘pretty’. These are forms that seem to spread virally to the edge of the PAGE 10

page, landscapes are darkly distorted, and her florals definitely aren’t the sort of thing you’d see on a sofa – unless it was a particularly cool one. There’s wonder and warning in them, an invitation to admire, but to heed their wildness. Knowing her origin story makes Fannon Christian’s work all the more engaging: the succession of dots and swirls she tirelessly builds into Aubrey Beardsley-esque intricacies are imbued with the exuberance of somebody revelling in and gaining ground in their craft. They could be the results of automatic drawings where the viewer is left to conjure the spirit, a rumbling from deep within Plato’s cave. Fannon Christian’s style has been honed to the point where she can play and embellish; her work is recognisable, but switches up its genetic make up as each new interest grabs her. It’ll be fascinating to see whether it’s a petri-dish or kaleidoscope she peers into next, but whichever inkling takes root, all we really need her to do is continue to ‘feel like drawing’. Marian Fannon Christian: www.fannyc.co.uk Zari Gallery: www.zarigallery.co.uk


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THE PATH

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CHRISTIAN DIOR IN ENGLAND Although based on Christian Dior: Couturier du Rêve, an exhibition organised by the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams was exclusively curated for the V&A. For the occasion, a new section was added to celebrate the couturier’s professional and emotional connections with Britain. Newspaper articles, photographs and unique garments reveal Christian Dior’s close collaboration with British fabric manufacturers as well as the enthusiasm of his British audience. A highlight of the retrospective is the majestic dress that Christian Dior designed for Princess Margaret’s 21st birthday. The young princess became a regular client of the fashion house and a guest of honour at some of its prestigious shows.

THE INSPIRATIONS From the shapes and forms of his garments to his beautiful prints and embroideries, flowers and gardens are a central theme of Christian Dior’s creations and those of his successors, who – while remaining true to the House of Dior’s ethos – introduced their own personalities and styles to the classic designs. Other recurring inspirations are the sumptuous fabrics and silhouettes of the 18th and 19th centuries and the exotic colours and cultures of faraway lands. Three sections of the exhibition are dedicated to these opulent facets, displaying some of the house’s most head-turning dresses. Prepare to be taken on a journey to the Versailles courts, to Japan, China or Mexico, finally landing in a heavenly garden of delicate flowers. The grand finale is the lavish Ballroom. The glitz of gold and silver shimmer transforms into the intimate blue of a starry night, producing a perfect setting in which to dream and fall in love (surely, Dior would have approved) – enhanced by exquisite haute-couture creations. Silks, sequins and Swarovski crystals are some of the materials worked into the fabulous evening gowns. Perfume also plays an important role at the House of Dior. On the occasion of his first fashion show, Christian Dior sprayed the rooms with the scent of the iconic Miss Dior, which he launched later the same year. Classic and sophisticated fragrance bottles are displayed throughout the exhibition, echoing the timeless elegance of hs womenswear. So, whether you’re a fashion expert or novice, this magnificently curated retrospective will completely draw you into the world of Dior, a world full of dreams, creativity and elegance. A world you may never want to leave… The exhibition Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams runs from 2 February to 14 July 2019. Tickets start at £20. All concessions: £15. For more information, visit vam.ac.uk. Designed by Nathalie Crinière and curated by Oriole Cullen.

The Victoria & Albert Museum’s latest fashion venture (supported by Swarovski, one of Christian Dior’s lifelong artistic partners) is a retrospective celebrating the life of the famous couturier and his undeniable influence on the fashion industry.

‘THIS GATHERING OF DESIGNS & BREATHTAKING DECOR IMMERSES VISITORS IN A WORLD OF REVERIE, ELEGANCE & BOUNDLESS CREATIVITY…’

CHRISTIAN DIOR: DESIGNER OF DREAMS AT THE V&A

CHRISTIAN DIOR BY JOHN GALLIANO (B.1960), HAUTE COUTURE, AUTUMN/WINTER 2004 PHOTO © LAZIZ HAMANI | DIOR HÉRITAGE COLLECTION, PARIS

THE BEGINNING Dior’s story starts with the designer’s early life in Normandy and his rise to fashion-industry titan. A series of sketches, pictures and documents lead us through the key events in his life and close relationships that shaped his unique destiny. The first room is also dedicated to the Bar suit. The iconic pleated skirt and sculpted jacket, part of Christian Dior’s revolutionary first collection, have become the symbol of the designer’s signature ‘New Look’. The original ensemble, acquired by the V&A in 1960, takes the spotlight, while on each side new interpretations by subsequent creative directors highlight the importance of this iconic look and its enduring appeal in the House of Dior and in the industry. The next 10 looks teach us more about the early days of the couture house. Covering the years of Christian Dior’s tenure, the classic pieces showcase the new lines and structures that defined his forward-thinking collections.


SELFLESS SHOPPING AT THE OCTAVIA FOUNDATION SARAH LAVIGNE finds a boutique with the community’s best interests at heart…

Just a few steps away from the V&A, on Brompton Road, is the Octavia Foundation charity shop. Inspired by the timeless pieces of the Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibition (and having just learnt that the couturier’s shows in Britain were often organised in aid of charity), I was in a mood to find out more. Charity shops were one of the things I loved the most when I first moved to England: combining unique fashion finds with altruism is a concept I can definitely get on board with! But, shopping at the Octavia Foundation store elevates the experience. As I walked in, I spied the ‘Designer boutique: downstairs’ sign, which – you may have guessed – led to a cosy cache of luxury fashion.’ From Christian Dior to Katharine Hamnett, Prada to Jimmy Choo: beautiful ensembles, shoes and accessories have been thoughtfully donated by local residents (including a few celebs…) and judiciously curated by a savvy team of dedicated staff and volunteers. Perhaps the team’s most impressive achievement is forging relationships with the area’s big-hitters. Their local corporate partners – who also contribute generously – include prestigious institutions such as Harrods: itself a frequent donor of high-end items. As part of the boutique’s ‘Takeover Days’, some partners even donate their time and skills, taking over the running of the store for a day or helping to dress the windows, displaying covetable new and pre-owned pieces and enhancing an already unique shopping experience. However, these aren’t the only reasons to visit the store. The Octavia Foundation is a registered charity, operating in central and west London, where it provides care and support to the local community, with ‘befriending’ programmes offering company and friendship to socially isolated people, training and employment schemes helping residents get back into work, and youth projects promoting healthy living, confidence and life skills. In the last year alone, the charity has helped 184 individuals to rejoin the workforce, 162 children and teenagers build new skills, extended friendship to 442 older or isolated people and assisted 84 residents with welfare grants. The Octavia Foundation is part of the Octavia Group, founded by social-housing pioneer Octavia Hill. Its aim is to support the rich diversity of London by providing affordable homes for people on all incomes and supporting the vulnerable, striving to help build stronger, healthier and happier communities. So, if you feel inspired, how can you help? Firstly, by shopping… Rummage around in one of their 21 stores, located on some of the UK’s most prestigious high streets. You’re sure to find beautiful and unique pieces: an Ethan K handbag recently netted the charity £3,000. As spring-cleaning season approaches, why not go Marie Kondo on your belongings and donate? The Octavia shops are always on the lookout for more pre-loved designer items. But, if you’re fresh out of Missoni shoes and such, you can donate your time, too. The charity relies on volunteers, who – as part of the befriending programme – donate just one hour a week to spend time with isolated, vulnerable people. More volunteers joining the team means that more lonely people can be reached. Alternatively, one of the 21 stores will happily take on new volunteers. To find out more about the Octavia Foundation or volunteering opportunities,contact the organisation via phone 0208.354.5500, email info@ octavia.org.uk, or visit one of the stores. PAGE 13

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FOLLOWING THE

BAUHAUS TRAIL IN BERLIN

SARAH LAVIGNE muses on the beloved design school’s enduring appeal… We may not be aware of it, but we are all living with the Bauhaus legacy. From architecture, interior design and homeware, to fine art, fashion and popular music, the school’s ground-breaking creations, ideals and techniques have made their way into many aspects of our everyday life. During 2019, cultural centres in Berlin will come together to celebrate the 100th anniversary of this influential school of art and design, and through a series of exhibitions, performances and workshops, will aim to share the looks, ideas and teachings of the Bauhaus and demonstrate its impact on the world of today. ABOUT THE BAUHAUS Pioneering architect Walter Gropius founded the Bauhaus in Weimar in 1919, with an immediate aim to elevate crafts to the status of fine art and to promote interdisciplinary collaboration, which he will later also extend to industry. Relocating from Weimar to Dessau in 1925 due to political pressure, then from Dessau to Berlin a few years later, the school was eventually shut down by the Nazis in 1933. But despite a short and turbulent existence, the Bauhaus has generated reforms in art, design and architecture, which have touched the world ever since. With renowned artists like Kandinsky, Moholy-Nagy and Klee as teachers, plus a desire to strive towards experimental techniques, the ambition to influence social change and a revolutionary educational programme, the Bauhaus’ legacy goes well beyond its prefabricated buildings, tubular metal chairs and adjustable lamps. After the school closed, many masters and students decided to emigrate, extending the reach of the Bauhaus to the rest of the world. art:berlin TOUR Whether you’re a Bauhaus aficionado or novice, the best way to start on the Bauhaus trail is to follow a knowledgeable and passionate art historian and Bauhaus expert around the streets of Berlin. art:berlin is a product of cpb culturepartner berlin GmbH and organises art and architecture tours of Berlin. In collaboration with the BauhausArchiv, they also offer a selection of dedicated Bauhaus tours. Their unique Design tour takes visitors to key fashion and interior designers who have taken inspiration from the Bauhaus, and brings to life the school’s contributions to these fields. MUST-SEE ARCHITECTURE My architecture tour with art:berlin started at the Bauhaus-Archiv building. Designed by Bauhaus founder Walter Gropius himself, this modernist landmark is the home of Bauhaus research in Berlin. It is currently undergoing huge renovation and closed to the public, so

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a temporary Bauhaus-Archiv has been set up on Knesebeckstraße for small exhibitions. Next stop on the tour: Hansaviertel, an impressive collection of high-rise buildings, houses and bungalows, surrounded by rich greenery. Internationally acclaimed architects – including Oscar Niemeyer and Walter Gropius – were invited to collaborate on this unique social project, as part of the 1957 Interbau exhibition. Also part of the Interbau exhibition was Le Corbusier’s Unité d’Habitation. As with the Hansaviertel, this ‘vertical village’ near the Olympic stadium is an architectural example of the modernist concern with human wellbeing, offering residents well-designed apartments within a carefully constructed community. A few projects by the last Bauhaus director Ludwig Mies van der Rohe are dotted around the city and also worth a detour: The Neue Nationalgalerie and the Mies van der Rohe Haus (also known as Haus Lemke), both showcase the designer’s command of glass as a material. THE OPENING FESTIVAL In Berlin, the 100-year anniversary celebrations started as early as January, with das Eröffnungsfestival (opening festival) – over a week of theatre, dance, music and interactive installations, hosted by the Akademie der Künste, and focusing on the performing arts in the Bauhaus. Contemporary artists paid tribute to the Bauhaus ideals, with interdisciplinary experiments on shape, light, sound and colour, while key works from the Bauhaus masters themselves were brought to life to provide historical background. The dancers of the Bayerisches Jungendballett stole the show with their rendition of Oskar Schlemmer’s legendary Triadische Ballett (triadic ballet). Breaking through the boundaries of conventional choreography, they created a world of comedy, romance and mystique, in which movement is defined by the materials and forms of their fantastic costumes. These beautifully extravagant costumes transform the human body into a moving sculpture. This approach to the human body can be seen in the works of many fashion designers like Alexander McQueen, Raf Simons or Gareth Pugh and in our popular culture: the Triadische Ballett is said to have inspired Kansai Yamamoto’s wardrobe for David Bowie’s Ziggy Stardust and New Order’s True Faith music video. The Bayerisches Jugendballett is due to come back for another performance in Potsdam this May. Other exciting festivals and exhibitions are planned daily throughout 2019. Some events not to miss include Original Bauhaus at the Berlinische Galerie: 14 key objects showcased to reveal a new angle in the Bauhaus legacy; and the Bauhaus Week

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‘Following the trail of the Bauhaus is a bit like stepping back in time in order to understand the present.’

S

TRIADISCHES BALLETT, WILFRIED HÖSL

Berlin – a whole week of workshops, talks and displays bringing to life the impact of Bauhaus in today’s culture. Both are taking place in early September, a time when Berlin is at its most charming. WHERE TO STAY With its impressive 1920s modernist architecture, beautiful interiors and luxurious rooms, the Ellington Hotel on Nürnberger Straße is the perfect choice as your temporary Berliner abode. Inspired by prominent architect Erich Mendelsohn, built by Richard Bielenberg and Josef Moser, the Ellington also boasts a fascinating history, having once been home to the Badewanne jazz club (where iconic artists Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong and Duke Ellington performed), Ministry of Finance, and the famous Dschungel, where the likes of David Bowie, Lou Reed, Frank Zappa and many more partied the night away at their (undoubtedly extravagant) after-show gatherings. The Ellington’s unique balance of tradition and modernity, elegance and relaxation, is carried through to its restaurant, Duke, where the highly lauded chef provides fine French cuisine with a modern twist and exciting flavour combinations. All presented with tasteful simplicity and paired with the best local wines. The I love Chocolate dessert is the one of the most decadent culinary experiences I have ever had and a lovely way to indulge after a long day of exploring. The Bauhaus trail also leads to one of Berlin’s best chocolate factories. Erich Hamann Schokolade, on Brandenburgische Straße, has been making and selling some of the best chocolates in Berlin since 1912. Made with a high cocoa content and natural

ingredients, and following traditional recipes, Erich Hamann chocolates are irresistibly intense but also smooth and creamy… The pistachio marzipans are out of this world, but our absolute favourites were the chocolate-coated ginger sticks (Ingwer Stäbchen): strong, fresh and not too sweet, we simply had to treat ourselves. But what is the factory’s link to the Bauhaus? The shop was designed by no other than Bauhaus master Johannes Itten, so it’s worth stopping to buy some souvenirs… This year, with the 100-year anniversary of the Bauhaus, Berlin reveals a new facet of its artistic past, one that we may not be as familiar with, but one we should start getting excited about. Following the trail of the Bauhaus is a bit like stepping back in time in order to understand the present. And if this means treating ourselves to beautiful food and chocolates along the way, well, I’m all for it.

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Ellington Hotel - www.ellington-hotel.com +49 (0)30 68 3150 | contact@ellington-hotel.com art:berlin - www.artberlin-online.de +49 (0)30 68 9150 08 | info@artberlin-online.de Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin - www.bauhaus.de +49 (0)30 25 4002 0 | bauhaus@bauhaus.de Erich Hamann KG - hamann-schokolade.de +49 (0)30 87 3208 5 | erich.hamannKG@t-online.de 100 year Anniversary Programme available at www.bauhaus100.berlin

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Launched in 2002, Really Wild has always had its roots in British heritage and the countryside; indeed, it was originally conceived of as a line of contemporary shooting wear for the Royal Berkshire Shooting School. However, it didn’t take long for founder and designer Natalie Lake to realise that her clientele wanted clothes that segued effortlessly between town and country. So, in 2012, a London collection was designed, putting an urban spin on country chic that would make women feel stylish and comfortable, in either setting. With its flagship store in Marlow, Really Wild has been stocked in outlets all over the country, including a handful in London, ever since it began, but when the opportunity for a popup shop in Duke of York Square arose in September last year, the brand, understandably, jumped on it. Pop-ups may not always become available at the most convenient time for a brand but Really Wild were delighted that their London presence was set to coincide with the autumn months; with tweed being at the core of what they do, it enabled them to showcase their strongest collection. Sharing the space with jeweller Daniella Draper, they had a fantastically successful couple of months, giving them the confidence to move forward with a permanent London retail space. Opening this March, the Really Wild store, at 53 Sloane Square, will differ from its Berkshire counterpart in terms of reflecting the style of the area’s clientele, which comprises both international visitors aware of Chelsea’s appeal as a shopping destination, as well as locals for whom it’s a beloved ‘village’. With the fashion-forward energy of the capital in mind, stock will incorporate a range of other high-end brands which provide a seamless twist on Really Wild’s core collections, demonstrating how country tweeds can be paired with more contemporary elements to give them a modern and distinctive edge, making Really Wild a one-stop shop for the look. That said, British heritage remains at the core of the Really Wild ethos and they have no intention of diluting its DNA by moving too far away from that. Indeed, so true does the brand remain to its roots that their pieces are, wherever possible, sourced and made in Britain, with tweeds and knits from Scottish mills and workshops, dresses and shirts in Liberty print silks and feathers collected from British moors. Items sourced from abroad, such as their range of Spanish boots, are small batch and artisanal, exquisitely crafted in a family-run workshop. A love of Great Britain is apparent in how the ranges are

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designed to be worn: after all, a true celebration of this island has to take into account the vagaries of its weather, so layering is key, with textures and patterns working beautifully together or separately, such as cosy knitwear and fur-trimmed coats adding warmth to an otherwise summery, floaty dress. Tailoring and a quality fit are also of huge importance to the brand; although they had the famously slender and elegant Kate Middleton model for them in her pre-Duchess days, make no mistake about the fact that Really Wild designs with real women in mind. They aim to have their clientele feeling beautiful, confident and womanly in every piece from the collections. Confidence is also embodied in each range’s palette, with a deliberate move away from omnipresent greys and monochromes, to capture the joy and beauty of nature in the colours that mirror it.

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www.reallywildclothing.com


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17,000 ISLANDS OF IMAGINATION: INDONESIA TAKES CENTRE STAGE AT THE LONDON BOOK FAIR THIS MARCH, WITH OVER 120 EVENTS ACROSS LONDON This spring, The London Book Fair (LBF) will set up home in Kensington Olympia from 12–14 March. Predominantly a trade event for international and UK publishing professionals, the fair also sparks a UK-wide series of public events and a focus on literature throughout March. This year, LBF have chosen Indonesia to be their Market Focus country offering a delegation of Indonesian authors and publishers the unique opportunity to bring its rich literary and cultural heritage to the UK. The programme of events is titled 17,000 Islands of Imagination and reflects the diversity of culture, language, history, food and fashion that spans the vast archipelago. As well as panel discussions, seminars and literary salons, the programme will showcase some of Indonesia’s best loved culinary exports (coffee and soto (soup)), exhibit vibrant artworks and graphic designs, offer taster lessons in Bahasa Indonesian and screenings of contemporary films. Here are some of the event highlights both inside and outside Kensington Olympia this March: FRIDAY 8 MARCH Indonesian Language Taster Class* 6:30pm–8:30pm Foyles Bookshop, 107 Charing Cross Road Register for a free ticket at www.foyles.co.uk Get an expert introduction to Indonesian from SOAS University lecturer in Indonesian language and literature Dr Yulianeta, during a free taster class in the Languages department of our Charing Cross Road shop. Dr Yulianeta will go through the basic principles of the language for an audience of beginners, while giving directions on how to further develop Indonesian-speaking skills. MONDAY 11 MARCH Indonesian Board Games: Play Session (Free) 2pm–5pm, Draughts Board Game Cafe, Hackney, E8 4EA Board games are having a renaissance around the world and Indonesian board-game producers are at the forefront with their distinctive design. Try out Indonesian board games and meet the makers at the Draughts Board Game Café in Hackney. TUESDAY, 12 MARCH Resistance: Literature as Activism Free Word Centre (60 Farringdon Road, London, EC1R 3GA) Tickets: £7-£10 | https://freeword.org/whats-on Join us for an exclusive evening with two of Indonesia’s most exciting writers, Intan Paramaditha and Norman Erikson Pasaribu. Intan Paramaditha is a fiction writer and academic whose works focus on the intersection between gender and sexuality, culture and politics. Norman Erikson Pasaribu is a poet, fiction and non-fiction writer who was dubbed by English PEN as ‘part of a long tradition of queer Catholic writing’. Together they will discuss how writing can be an act of resistance against the prevailing culture, whether in Indonesia or in the UK, and to consider how to navigate life as an activist THURSDAY 14 MARCH Indonesia: Creative Islands on the Rise (Free) 4.30pm–8pm, Studio 249 (Blithehale Court, 10 Witan Street, London E2 6FG) This three-day exhibition features illustrations from Indonesian

children’s books, web comics, board games and AR books for children. There will also be speaker events and film screenings with Indonesian creatives. Animation Screening: Si Juki, The Movie (Free) 4.45pm–6.30pm, Studio 249 (Blithehale Court, 10 Witan Street, London E2 6FG) A screening of an award-winning film directed by Faza Meonk which tells the story of Si Juki, a young celebrity at the height of popularity who makes a mistake and becomes the most wanted public enemy. The film won numerous awards in Indonesia. The Modest Fashion Revolution 6:45pm–9pm, Asia House (63 New Cavendish Street, London, W1G 7LP) Register for tickets at www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/the-rise-of-themodest-revolution-tickets-54699414421 (free for students). Modest fashion is a billion-dollar global business that is now influencing the mainstream market. Brands such as Dolce & Gabbana are catering to the modest buyer, hijab-wearing models are appearing in high-profile fashion and beauty campaigns and Muslim digital influencers command as many millions of followers as their non-covered counterparts. The discussion will centre around the rise of modest fashion with a particular emphasis on the Indonesian market and will also look at the similarities and differences in modest fashion around the world. FRIDAY 15 MARCH Live Drawing The Unique Universe of Indonesia* 10:30am–12 noon, Studio 249 (Blithehale Court, 10 Witan Street, London E2 6FG) Look at Indonesia from the point of view from three young and talented artists: Emte will tell a story through his silent comic, Gugug. Mayumi loves of the ocean and children; and Azizah lives in a world of ghosts. Joining them will be two UK artists. All the necessary materials will be provided. SATURDAY 16 MARCH Indonesian Genre and Cult Comics, 1939-2019* 11am–5pm, Kamran Djam lecture theatre @ SOAS The exhibition will showcase Indonesian popular genre comics from fantasy strips in the colonial days to independent comics today. The history of Indonesian comics is a blank spot in the world’s comic history. Once an industry that covered a continent-size archipelago with a strong tradition of graphic novels since 1950s, it’s now a cultish subculture kept alive by their independent predecessor of 2000s. This exhibition runs for two days, 16–17 March 2019, until 5pm each day. And don’t forget… Indonesian street-food sisters Kaki Lima will be serving up traditional soup outside Kensington Olympia throughout London Book Fair week. Make sure to stop by for sambal and soto – the Indonesian soup pegged to be the next ramen or pho. *Free events starred. As Market Focus country at The London Book Fair, Indonesia presents 17,000 Islands of Imagination in partnership with LBF and The British Council. For the full programme of events and more information visit www.islandsofimagination.id

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A new gallery brings a roster of fascinating international artists to the Royal Borough… Petite yet potent art space SAAS Gallery (Sofya Abbott Art Space, named after its owner) showcases an intriguing stable of contemporary Russian artists in a tucked away corner of Chelsea. While London has several galleries dedicated to classic Russian artwork, emerging voices are woefully underrepresented. Abbott has perhaps cannily set up shop in the Royal Borough, along riverside stretch Cheyne Walk, as there’s a strong Russian community in the area (not to mention the odd oligarch…). However, there’s no cliquishness: Abbott is impassioned to introduce rising stars to the UK scene and loudly extol the talents of established creatives. The gallery’s opening gambit was an exclusively commissioned show by Valery Chtak, whose witty needling of British celebrities and deconstruction of the culture that lauds them, sets the tone for the eloquent, often irreverent shows we can come to expect in future. His work harks back to Dada’s cheekiness and pokes a tongue out at bourgeoisie ideals. Olga Soldatova’s ‘Christmas Flight’ show took the bombastic Soviet aesthetic and interpreted its plane murals (inspired by those in the Mayakovskaya metro station), futurist utopias and aspirational scenes through arts and crafts. Canvasses sparkling with sequins and semi-precious stones

and lavishly embroidered pieces put propaganda under new scrutiny, giving it an ironic yet nostalgic edge, lifting it with an art deco twist and questioning what value these images still have today. Olga’s work is startlingly authentic too, for example, the granddaughter of a well-respected Soviet plane engineer added the coral pieces to the mosaic of her piece Red Plane – a reminder that this past can be all too present. And, there were Christmas presents to buy, too, Soldatova’s sparkling range of jewellery – decadent baubles or source-of-pride treasures, it’s up to you to decide, but her star medallions are rather fetching… It seems that Abbott has grand future plans, looking to encompass international talents and promote female artists. After a strong start, we’re excited to see what will fill the walls of this small of size, loud in attitude space. So, we’ll definitely be in attendance for Serbian artist Marija Šević’s upcoming show, In the Night Will You Follow Me? Which will feature large format paintings of nightlife and capture the intimacy and exuberance of youth. Taken from photographs of fragmented scenes, with an intention to open a twoway relationship with viewers, they rely on the seer’s investment. Sounds like another coup for SAAS Gallery.

‘IT SEEMS THAT ABBOTT HAS GRAND FUTURE PLANS, LOOKING TO ENCOMPASS INTERNATIONAL TALENTS AND PROMOTE FEMALE ARTISTS.’

SAAS www.saas-london.com 111 Cheyne Walk, Chelsea, London SW10 0DJ

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OSBORNE STUDIO GALLERY SID RAGHAVA gets the lowdown on the esteemed gallery’s cultural programme through 2019… We ‘ve heard rumours about a fabulous programme planned for 2019. What’s in store for patrons and visitors at Osborne Studio Gallery? We are very excited for 2019 at OSG. Currently we have our ’New Dawn’ exhibition open until 28 February. A mixed collection of mostly landscape and still-life paintings celebrating the new year, featuring work by Howard Milton, Jessica Gale and Garry Pereira. After which we are pleased to announce a new Contemporary Exhibition which will be open until 4 April. This will feature work by Ruben Alterio, a well-renowned abstract artist. On 10 April, we then open a one-man show for John Standing, one of England’s most respected stage, film and television actors and also a very skilled painter. Next we are delighted to show ‘A New Look’ of Lincoln Seligman, opening from the 14–30 May. June for OSG will be focused around equestrian art to tie in with Ascot, with particular attention to the Trooping of the Colour this year: we are suitably showing sculptor Frippy Jameson alongside Spanish equestrian artist, David Noalia from 17 June until 4 July. Then, we’ll present a mixed summertime exhibition for the duration of July and August, followed by David White exhibiting his stunning wildlife photographs (from 17 September until 3 October). To follow, we then have Garry Pereira, a leading landscape artist known well to the gallery, showing his atmospheric and moody interpretations of England, Wales and Scotland, from the 8–25 October. In November, the gallery is thrilled to present the accomplished horse painter Katie O’Sullivan for a one-man show, opening on the 6–28 November. Lastly, to finish the year, we are delighted to show new works by former army officer Freddy Paske from 4–21 December, for his second solo show at the gallery. How did the Gallery come to be in its original location on Floral Street and why did it move to Motcomb Street? I had the good fortune to meet the sculptor James Osborne, who had his studio in Floral Street, Covent Garden, accompanied by an empty gallery. He offered me the space, which was too good to refuse, and hence it became the Osborne Studio Gallery. We left Covent Garden in 1991, at the time of a serious recession. For the next six years we moved five times. In order to survive we took the end of a lease of a large gallery in Cork Street and another in St James Street. During that period we also operated from a flat in Chelsea, an office in Savile Row and a desk in Battersea. In 1996 things were a little better and we felt ready to settle down. I had always had my eye on Motcomb Street and here we are 23 years later. Your wonderful roster of artists includes Lincoln Seligman (whom I interviewed for the KCR last year). We also did a feature on the brilliant Hubert de Watrigrant and are huge fans of Geoffrey Humphries, Terence J Gilbert and Lucy Dickens. How do you choose your artists? Or do they find you? Any new names to watch out for in 2019?

We often get approached by artists but what is most satisfying is finding them when travelling abroad. Some of our very best I have stumbled across almost by accident – maybe it was meant to be. New Dawns seems to have been a great start to the 2019 for OSG. How does it feel to be running one of the top two equestrian galleries in the UK; in fact, number one in London? On the equestrian and racing side, it has taken a long time but I am delighted to say we represent some of the very best international artists. To name a few, Katie O’Sullivan, Hubert De Watrigant and Mao Wen Biao. What is most satisfying is having an acclaimed show that is successful, but I am mindful of the truism that you are only as good as your last exhibition. OSG is a wonderful testament to the legacy of its two essential building blocks – sculptor James Osborne after whom its named and Sir Peter O’Sullevan, its former Chairman. How do you remember them both? I was ridiculously lucky to have met James Osborne the sculptor in 1986, who gave us a kick start. For somebody who never went to school and as he often said, was unencumbered by formal training he had immense talent – we had a lot of fun together in those early days. Sir Peter O’Sullevan, who was our chairman until he died, was a truly remarkable man. Having heard that a new racing gallery was opening, and always with his ear to the ground, he started coming to the gallery and indeed buying paintings, he was a shrewd collector with a great eye. That also was in 1986. The pleasure this gave me was enormous as he had been by boyhood idol. We became close friends over the years and I still feel so privileged that this happened. He was a true hero and, like millions, I will always remember ‘that voice’. You developed an early love for racecourses, dealt in antiques and also lived in South Africa for a bit. Tell us a bit about those experiences. Racing from around the age of seven had been my passion, and years later I developed a passion for art too. All I can is how lucky I have been in life to have managed to have combine those two and make a career out of it. I was always a bit of a wheeler dealer and as a porter at Bonhams back in the late 1970s I also had a stall on Portobello road on a Saturday. I am still not sure whether I was allowed to do this or not! Whatever, myself and a friend did very well, until – while staying in the South of France that summer – we lost our entire profit in the casino in Monte Carlo. All that hard work and early mornings were in vain. A lesson learnt. South Africa was wonderful and I had three years there working for Sotheby’s, I managed to make my own life, with no family to help. They were formative years and I made some of my best friends during that time, the climate wasn’t bad either. Of late, what in the world of art and culture has piqued Geoffrey Hughes’ interest? Though I enjoy looking at modern art, I remain fascinated in British sporting paintings through the ages and the stories they tell about our social history. That fascinates me more than anything in the art world, a little boring, unoriginal and unfashionable maybe, but the truth. Osborne Studio Gallery: www.osg.uk.com

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SHOPPING EDIT

What we’re spending our money on this Spring...

Swims Motion Wing-Tip Boots - www.swims.com | £200

Bronze Wood & Leather Cologne Intense by Jo Malone London - www.jomalone.com | £120

Swiss Army Steel Eau de Toilette for Men 100ml by Victorinox www.victorinox.com | £50

The Wand Candle Lighter by St Dupont www.st-dupont.com | £170 (RRP £150–180; available in Harvey Nichols, Harrods, William & Son and Selfridges)

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Loewe Klang M1 Portable Bluetooth Speaker www.loewe.tv | £169 Ayurvedic beauty products by Samaya www.samayaayurveda.com

R5 High-Fidelity Music System by Ruark Audio - www.ruarkaudio.com | £999

Exfoliating Solution by Pestle & Mortar www.pestleandmortar.com | £25

Meditation Box by Kind Box www.kindbox.co.uk | £100

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ADVERTORIAL

WE LOVE: ALINA X JITROIS Alina Roxana Moise is a Moldavian-Romanian designer, now resident in London and gaining in celebrity. The polyglot (who speaks six languages and counting) has a degree in Fashion Marketing from Parsons School of Design in New York. Born to a mother who was a professor of both German and French and a businessman father who also used to teach physics and mathematics, Alina believes that she inherited her business acumen from her dad and her artistic skills from her mum. Her passion for fashion was evident early on; Moise made her first foray into business with her own company at the young age of 24 and was awarded with the prize for the best young designer and entrepreneur in Romania by Fashion TV. After living and working in countries, including Switzerland, Italy, France and the USA, and travelling to more than 70 others, she developed an idea for her resortwear-focused brand ‘Alina London’, inspired by her luxurious, exotic getaways. Her designs are tailored towards adventurous, strong, fit and fashion-conscious women, and Moise wants to transform Alina London into the go-to brand for when it comes to buying holiday wear, with other outlets slated for cities like New York and Dubai. The crowning jewel in this exciting and ambitious plan is the honour of working with the legendary Jitrois on an leather goods capsule-collection. It has taken the brand to a different level and opened new horizons for high fashion. As dedicated fans of the brand, Jitrois CEO Gilbert Maria and founder Jean-Claude Jitrois found that an ‘out-ofthe box’ collaboration with Alina came naturally. Most fashion followers will know that leather has defined Jean-Claude Jitrois’ career, and over the years his creations have been worn by the likes of Brigitte Bardot, Elton John, Cher, Yoko Ono and Stéphanie de Monaco, to name but a few. The eponymous label has helped to show the world that leather can be sophisticated and versatile – so much so that Jitrois was knighted in 2001 with the Légion d’Honneur, the highest French order of merit, for his services to the fashion industry and the promotion of French fashion abroad. Thankfully, even at the ripe age of 74, Jitrois is not showing any signs of slowing down and his collaboration with Alina London is now available exclusively at Fashion Joint’s new concept store on Brompton Road for residents of Kensington and Chelsea. It is a womenswear resort brand with a limited-edition capsule collection of six suits in suede and stretch fabric. Alina only discovered Jitrois when passing by on Sloane street and immediately fell in love with the idea of working together, so it’s only fitting that the store is based in the Royal Borough. The collection allows the wearers to express themselves brightly, with white and gold shades, combining comfort and femininity. Stretch and suede leather, referred to as Jitrois second skin, accentuates body shapes. Jean-Claude Jitrois proudly says: ‘Alina and I wanted a timeless travel collection of island-inspired femininity, aiming to lead the wearer on a new path of desire to a more powerful self.’ PAGE 23

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ISOLATED LUXURY An experience that blends the indulgence of charter with the excitement of expedition cruising – ANDREW COLES explores the Norwegian Fjords aboard Ponant’s latest launch, Le Champlain. It started with something of a faux pas… ‘This is just such a pleasant boat’, I commented to Cruise Director Loïc Menguy over a glass of Veuve in the piano bar, as we slowly sliced our way through the Norwegian Fjords. We were aboard Ponant’s five-star Le Champlain for its maiden cruise, and judging by the disapproving looks, referring to his fine ship as a mere boat was akin to insulting his mother. There was an honest compliment hidden somewhere in my gaff. What I really meant is that cruising aboard Le Champlain feels a little like a friend-of-a-friend has invited you and a handful of guests for a weekend away. And friends-of-my-friends don’t tend to own ships. At 131m in length and with just 88 staterooms and four suites, Le Champlain is the epitome of small ship cruising. It carries the name of French explorer and navigator Samuel de Champlain, founder of Quebec City, and is the second in a planned fleet of six Ponant ‘Explorer’ class ships. The benefits of small ships are threefold: the ship can physically fit into smaller waterways, taking you to more exotic locations, and the low density of fellow guests not only means that it rarely feels crowded on board, but also that the ship can stop in smaller ports, where disembarking passenger numbers are often limited. Le Champlain is a marvel of understated French-design flair, and architect Jean-Philippe Nuel has clearly been given free reign and an open chequebook to realise his vision for the interior – from the furniture, fixtures and carpets used throughout, all the way to the vases and the embroidery on the cushions, everything was created bespoke by Nuel for Le Champlain. The eccentric Jacques Rougerie, an architect-oceanographer who specialises in futuristic underwater habitats, has also had freedom in creating the Blue Eye, a bar situated under the waterline, deep in the hull, which has windows that look out into the murky depths. Hydrophones mounted to the ship’s keel detect and play the calls of nearby whales and dolphins, and Jacques infectiously waxes lyrical about how the future of humanity is beneath the sea, and that these sorts of spaces are the first

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steps in exposing landlubbers to their inevitable fate. I’m not convinced, but it’s a damned fine place for a drink all the same. The excess continues in the Le Nautilus restaurant, with gastronomic flourishes every bit the match for the environment in which they are served. Dinner each night is a five-course affair, with the menu, designed by Michelin-star-decorated Monégasque chef Alain Ducasse, taking its inspiration from the ports of call but with an added French touch, as you would expect. Accompanying wines are included in your fare, as is 24-hour room service to your stateroom, should you wish to indulge in a midnight cheeseburger. I’m not ashamed to admit that I did, and it was excellent. If you’re looking to bury your nose in a book during the days and to dance away the nights, Ponant is probably not the right line – the value here is the sheer decadence of revelling in such comfort while discovering otherwise inhospitable locales, often only explored by dedicated expedition cruises. Le Champlain will spend much of 2019 in South America and the Amazon, and a handful of cruises are planned in association with National Geographic. On these legs, a naturalist and a photographer will lead on-shore excursions, and then deliver evening lectures in the 188-seat theatre to enrich the day’s visit. It’s acceptable, no, it’s encouraged, to attend these lectures with your choice of cocktail in hand. My second day on board was a good example of this duality. Our cruise had embarked from Bergen, down the coast from a shipyard in Søvik, where Le Champlain had been finished just a month earlier. Ah, that new-ship smell. We had cruised north, spending our first day winding through the Geiranger Fjord, before exiting under the cover of darkness and arriving the next morning at Olden, Captain RenéPaul Boucher having guided us through the Nordfjord while we were cosily asleep. Our morning excursion was to travel in the descriptively named Troll-cars up a steep and slippery track to the Briksdal Glacier, an arm of mainland Europe’s largest glacier. The Journal de bord conveniently left in our rooms the previous

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night recommended a waterproof layer – timely, as the trail took us through the spray of a glacial waterfall and the open-topped Trollcars offered little protection. We hiked the final kilometre through blazing autumnal forests and hopscotched from stone to stone across small streams. With majestic snow-capped peaks forming a notable backdrop, we arrived at the pale-blue glacier, sliding wistfully down the mountain face and into a pellucid lake. Signs at various points indicated where the glacier had grown and retreated over the centuries, providing a palpable measure of climate change. The day was cold but sunny, so we were back on the ship for lunch, dining outdoors on the rear-deck-located Grill Restaurant, savouring an asparagus salad with a glass of Sémillon and a prodigious view of distant waterfalls tumbling into the fjord. The afternoon’s activity was kayaking, and we paddled through the icy water to get a closer look at those waterfalls. You inevitably get a little wet when you’re number two in a two-person kayak, and you do feel a little unsettled when the guide cheerily mentions that the seabed is some 450m below. But no matter how chilly or nervous you are, the knowledge that your warm stateroom, a hot shower and a freshly made Negroni are just a short paddle away offers ample reassurance. Freshly showered and Negroni-d, I made my way to the Observatory Bar at the front of the ship, and stood with familiar faces in sheer awe as we sailed out of the fjord, an aureate sunset seemingly lighting the orange and reds of the hillside on fire. There is no better conversation starter if you want to meet people: where we’d been, what we’d done that day, and the display we were witnessing served up hours of chat. I eventually bumped into Loïc, and apologised for labelling his vessel a mere boat. But my excuse was justified – I was beginning to think that I must have the best friends-of-friends in the world. Our writer was hosted by Ponant cruises, visit www.en.ponant.com to see Ponant’s range of routes and to book. All images by Andrew Coles.


Marylebone is a neighbourhood that’s no stranger to upmarket hotels and restaurants; after all, it has been home to The Landmark Hotel for 120 years. The building, which is wildly luxurious within, has an unmissable red-brick exterior, reflecting its rich history. It originally opened as railway hotel called The Great Central, in 1899 (named for the Great Central Railway, completed the same year). The original hotel fell into decline after the arrival of the automobile and went on to serve as a recovery home for the military during World War II. After a stint as the headquarters of the British Railways Board, it reopened to the public as a hotel in 1993. Now, the hotel is seconds away from Marylebone rail and Tube station, and a stone’s throw from other Bakerloo station stops. The Winter Garden Restaurant has always sat proudly at the heart of the hotel. All of the building’s eight stories overlook this impressive atrium, which allows light and air into all the bedrooms. The Landmark acknowledges that at the time the hotel was built, others were springing up monthly, and each tried hard to outclass each other. As stated on the hotel’s site: ‘The opening of the Savoy in 1895 and the Hotel Cecil in 1896 established standards of luxury and magnificence that were hard to equal. To this end the hotel was designed around a vast courtyard (twice as large as the original Savoy)’. At one time accessible from the street, the atrium was turned into a ballroom in 1910, and at dinner we can imagine ladies in fluted skirts and billowing blouses throwing themselves around with abandon until the early hours. The hotel was also famously used as the site for Emmeline Pankhurst’s ‘Welcome Back from Prison’ breakfast, hosted by her fellow Suffragettes. Nowadays, the dramatic entrance to the Winter Garden is lined with towering low-lit palm trees – a nod to its earlier use – and its elevated terrace is dotted with tables. The spot still

inspires awe in all who come across it. Here, people stop by in groups to take Instagram snaps before heading back out, some not stopping here for any other reason. Comprising of 300 rooms and suites and a wellness centre – complete with a 15-metre indoor swimming pool – we book our staycation on a Friday evening, so we can wind down after a busy week of meetings in the City. Luckily, this happens to coincide with both the good news of a promotion and the closing of a business deal between my best friend and I, so we have double the reasons to celebrate. Knowing the Landmark has a long history of festivity, it seems like the perfect place to choose for this particular Friday night. After a lovely dinner, surrounded by family diners, birthday celebrations and even a surprise engagement, we decide that in lieu of going out on the town to celebrate further, we’ll simply order a bottle of champagne to our room then sit and discuss our futures. The suite is vast, but so homey that we truly get settled in. Before we realise it, we are both falling asleep. We are spoilt with a king-size bed and living-room area, which ups the room’s comfort and ensures we’re not short of space during our stay. We wake up in the morning after a peaceful night’s sleep, surprising, considering we’re overlooking Marylebone road. Then we head down for breakfast, where there are Continentalbuffet and à la carte options – more than enough for us to fill ourselves up before the short journey home, and we enjoy freshly squeezed orange juice and hash browns as we look up to the stunning vaulted glass ceiling and wonder what the Suffragettes thought when they did the same thing more than 100 years ago. The Landmark - 222 Marylebone Road, NW1 6JQ www.landmarklondon.co.uk

TROPICAL VIBES IN THE HEART OF LONDON

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A SPA BREAK, WITH BELLS ON… KATE WEIR heads to the midlands to run hot and cold on a lavish thermal circuit.

Some like to sun themselves on a ridiculously good-looking beach, some like to scale mountains and trek through unruly jungles, some like to tread the Rues and Vias of grand European cities: me, I’m fast becoming a fan of the Brit minibreak. As a lifelong Londoner, looking to pop out of the capital’s bubble, I’ve swept the costas of Brighton, Margate and Deal, sussed out the dining scene by Hull’s harbour, felt kinship with Manchester’s Northern Quarter and gone balcony hot-tubbing in Leeds, as one does. So, when I was invited to the Midlands to try the spa at classic Brit stay, Ye Olde Bell Hotel, I was game, even if I wasn’t entirely sure where Retford was… A quick London-privilege check later, myself and a friend were speeding towards Nottinghamshire, to Barnby Moor, which sounds like a place of Brontë-esque wuthering, but, in reality, is a pleasant green-edged stretch just outside the charming market town of Retford. The hotel is a 10-minute taxi ride from the station and it has an old-school air; its lounge has a stoked fireplace by fanned-out leather wingbacks, our room is a Regency-era shade of duck-egg blue with judiciously chosen antiques – in keeping with its standing as a 17th-century coaching inn – and a freestanding tub in the huge bathroom (alongside a sizeable shower). Staff exude the kind of cheeriness Londoners struggle to muster on a good day. We’re helpfully guided and cosseted wherever we go. First, to our room, then to the spa, a short stroll away from the main hotel. Its staging area is an atrium with a bar and jewel-toned crushed-velvet couches to repose on as staff run you through treatments and lunch menus (I’m delighted that the choices run from ‘light’ to ‘decadent’ and choose the latter, even if I’m wearing a bikini). We clink glasses of Crémant, tuck into fishcakes with a pea purée, sage-crusted pork with a mustard sauce and chicken Wellington. We’re ushered into a changing room to slip into something more comfortable: soft robes and flip-flops, before waddling to the spa proper. A spa butler runs us through the thermal circuit: a climate-change Crystal Maze of boiling to freezing experiences. There’s a bearable sauna to start with, a steam room with a startling yet coolly steam-punk-style device for dunking hot stones in water, then a snow-storm experience, with added hail and wind if you wish – fun, but not dissimilar from London’s frigid weather. Plus, a sweltering Alpine sauna and trial-by-shower experience ranging from summer monsoons to a bad day in London, capped with a bucket of cold water for dunking. The menthol-scented hammam-style steam room is a soothing relief after. To finish, a salt room, whose crystal wall of healing salt has a curious sci-fi feel, but one can’t deny its effectiveness, my spa buddy and I both drift off into a salt-lulled slumber.

When roused, we try every jet setting in the indoor-outdoor pool, from waterfall to – our favourite – the Jacuzzi throne. We also spend time bubbling our tootsies in the hot-cool footbaths, resting on the bank of stone-baked sunloungers, and getting cosy by the fire pit in the outdoor Alpine chalets. Then, we’re fetched for a sabbia-med session: half an hour in a sandpit of a room with a box of UV light that mimics sunrise and a – slightly abrupt – sunset. I enjoy digging my toes in the warm sand, but can’t quite escape the sensation that I’m in a painted room rather than the riviera. My soothing back massage the next day is a greater success, my friend and I exchange botanical-stoned looks as we’re gently deposited in the relaxation room after. Back at the hotel, we have a dinner date in the 1650 restaurant, where the staff are again extremely charming, helping us choose dishes and wine. We eat scallops and cauliflower purée, venison loin with savoy cabbage and baby aubergine, pork in an onion sauce with giant onion rings, Gaelic brûlée (Gaelic for its splash of whisky and oat snap), and panna cotta with cinnamon and red berries, all delicious. The multi-million-pound spa is a huge lure for Londoners looking to escape the city, but the hotel itself is a draw too. It’s cosy and welcoming, with a fascinating history. It starred in the film The Good Companions, survived a fire and slept royalty and A-listers alike, from Queen Victoria to Bing Crosby, Shirley Bassey and One Direction. But, first guest Ralph Thoresby stayed after becoming lost on horseback while looking for a drunken companion – I can relate. And today, with its stay-all-day spa and overall geniality, it truly is a place where luminaries, lushes and all in-between are equally welcome. Our writer was hosted by Ye Olde Bell Hotel, Barnby Moor, Retford DN22 8QS. Visit www.yeoldebell-hotel.co.uk or call 01777 705121 to book a room or spa session.

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SPRING MADÉVI DAILLY heads to the Riviera Maya for a spot of Tulum therapy

Say you’re off to Cancun to anyone who grew up in the US, and you’re likely to get a raised eyebrow and knowing smirk in response. With good reason: the Mexican city’s whitewashed sprawl of behemoth resorts and Caribbean beaches has long been synonymous with tequila-fuelled breaks for American students on furlough. Touching down here, for those of us who’ll take a yoga retreat over a wet t-shirt contest any day of the year, simply means driving down the coast for a couple of hours to the luxe, more grown-up enclave of Tulum. Once a jungly backwater favoured by hippie souls, this laidback pocket of the Riviera Maya is now a flashy bastion of LA cool. Menus feature matcha lattes and smoothie bowls. Boho babes recline languidly on handcrafted floor cushions. The soundtrack’s more Air than Bob Marley. I’m here for the sort of soul-soothing, tress-tousling break we all yearn for – an escape from the relentless glass-and-concrete grind of London. My stay starts promisingly with an oceanfront breakfast at Nest, the latest in a string of ever-so-stylish boutique hotels gracing the furthest stretch of the beach. I’m encouraged to take my shoes off and pad barefoot to the driftwood tables set up right on the sands. There’s WiFi, natch – all the better to Instagram a hearty desayuno of spiced huevos rancheros, warm pastries and artfully arranged platter of fruit. A healthierthan-thou shot of citrusy probiotics has me embracing my inner Californian and setting intentions for the day: I vow not to stray from my thatched-roof day-bed, save for a dip or two in the boisterous, balmy waves of the Caribbean. It’s no easy task, but I persevere, Kindle within floppy arm’s reach, aided and abetted by indulgent waiters bringing me a steady stream of delicious drinks and snacks. There is, of course, much more to do in the area than sunning one’s limbs on powder-soft beaches. You could paddle-board on Nativus’s private cenote, say, or sup on shrimp aguachile and perfectly muddled cocktails at Nü, a sultry contemporary eatery just up the road. I hire a bike – a fetching pastel blue fixie number – and make the trip to the Mayan ruins drawing day trippers in droves to Tulum. They’re a startling sight: 13th-century temples, watchtowers and dwellings standing vigil over a postcard-perfect beach where sea turtles come to nest. Territorial iguanas guard the rocky outcrops above the sea, their long tongues darting around with menace. Is it the heat? The ancient wonders of the site? A slow-motion bicycle accident sees me sprain my ankle on the way home. This, my new inner Californian asserts, is my body’s way of telling me I need to take a break. A real one. My planned yoga retreat at Holistika, an aptly named bolthole tucked away in the

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jungle at the far side of town, may be off the cards, but I head there anyway for a spot of R&R. Behind its walls lies a serene, almost mystical hideaway for mind-and-body enthusiasts. Paths snake through luxuriant foliage, leading to a tree house here and a traditional temazcal sweat lodge there. ‘This is a long peaceful road’, says a wooden sign, while another entreats passersby to ‘trust the vibes you get.’ Such is the magic of the place that I find myself banishing my usual cynicism and nodding approvingly. The yoga classes, I hear from the chatter around the open-air Tierra restaurant, are excellent. So are the detoxfriendly breakfasts and flavour-packed veggie lunches: soymeat gyoza in a tart tamarind sauce, or moreish coriander-flecked black beans served with fresh tortillas. Better still are the two enormous magazine-worthy pools, where I while away a happy afternoon in a low-slung hammock strung just above the water. So far, so Tulum. But there’s a wilder, unspoilt side to this corner of the Riviera Maya, too. I rise in the early hours of the morning to join Sian Ka’an Community Tours, a local sustainable outfit guiding nature enthusiasts through the nearby biosphere reserve. Sian Ka’an, our Mayan guide tells us, means the place where the sky was born. As we skim over a vast brackish lagoon under cloudless skies, it’s easy to see why. Manatees loll here, in the safe and salty waters, their snouts occasionally coming up for air and a curious look at the visitors. Pelicans brood on windswept beaches. Caimans shelter in the darker corners of the mangroves. We follow ancient waterways through the unspoilt wilderness. Alighting from the boat and wincing at my bad ankle, I hobble down a long wooden walkway in the oppressive heat. What have I done to deserve this? Which Mayan god have I angered? Thankfully, it soon becomes apparent I have, in fact, gained entrance to my own personal paradise. I’m invited to slip into the fresh, impossibly crystalline waters of a Mayan canal. As I float down this natural lazy river, the pain in my ankle subsides and I sense the knots in my body untangling. I roll onto my back, staring up at the cyan skies above. Fighting against the current is futile; there is nothing to do but surrender to the flow. I breathe the moment in, deeply, a million miles away from London. My inner Californian would be proud.

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Nest - www.nesttulum.com Nativus - www.nativustulum.com Nü Tulum - www.nutulum.com Holistika - www.holistikatulum.com Sian Ka’an Community Tours - www.siankaantours.org


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MAMÁ KNOWS BEST ‘Hotel Mamá has cha-cha’d onto the scene, resplendent in rainbow hues and decor that nods to North African riads, with a pinch of Latin American spice.’

KATE WEIR checked into Mallorca’s brightest and boldest new stay… At times, it almost seems like Mallorca’s famous tree, the Cort Olive, a gnarled bruiser of a trunk with a wild mane of leaves dominating peaceful Plaça de Cort, takes on the appearance of a wizened yet benevolent protector of the city. Admittedly, these times are usually when we’ve returned from pounding Palma’s impressively polished pavements, wine drunk on locally grown reds and ready to avail ourselves of Hotel Mamá’s glamorous Cappuccino Grand Café bar. We yammer on about the faces we can see in the trunk (‘there, there’s one on the other one’s cheekbone’) as waiters in spotless white dinner jackets discreetly check our drink levels, and with the spotlit Town Hall in the background there’s a sense of things being as they have throughout the island’s ages. However, this isn’t quite the case – the olive tree, while geriatric, is a relatively recent implant (circa 1989) from Pollença in Mallorca’s Serra de Tramuntana region, serving as a reminder that much of Palma’s beautiful Old Town was shaped by people looking from the outside in, bestowing the island with a unique culture, cuisine and look. Its history has been written by invaders and settlers from North Africa, mainland Spain, Italy, France and beyond, the legacy of which can be seen in the city’s diverse dining scene, literature, artwork and architecture – but, less so in its luxury hotels. Many favour austere, country-monk chic: white walls which the sun boastfully dazzles off, wooden beams, a hunk of exposed rock to divert the eye… However, Hotel Mamá (the first from Grupo Cappuccino, whose Grand Cafés grace prominent locations throughout Spain and the Balearics, spilling over into Jeddah and Gstaad) has cha-cha’d onto the scene, resplendent in rainbow hues and decor that nods to North African riads, with a pinch of Latin American spice. It’s currently hitting its sophomore stride after opening in

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March 2018, but with bustle in the bar and confident, effusively helpful staff to welcome us, it’s on the ascendant already. It’s housed in an elegant, typically Mallorcan building – suntan-hued with racing-green shutters – whose ancient foundations are evident in the spa, where one of two treatment rooms is housed in an original water cistern. The outer shell of the building dates back to the 19th century; the Grupo gutted it and rebuilt from within, adding a glass walled, open-roofed courtyard at the centre where lofty palms reach up to a square of blue sky and a fountain provides a soothing soundtrack for diners at linendressed tables. Next to that is Japanese joint Tahini Sushi Bar (another Grupo success); a lounge with a fireplace, and the aforementioned Grand Café bar, which has live jazz music (a Friday-night feature) and tables spilling out onto Placa Cort. The hotel’s decor, the work of interior designer Jacques Grange, whose commitment to colour is laudable, is a riotous blend of delightfully clashing handpainted tiles (evoking Moroccan zellige), furnishings that recall mid-century tropicana (hello, cane sofas with cacti-print cushions), art deco-style ironwork and an intriguing array of ceramics, paintings and sculptures. The detailing is exquisite and a pay-off for Grange’s loud taste: coral chevrons sit beside mint-green curlicues and acid-yellow banquettes, the lifts are shining Tardises of marble and mirrors and luchador masks leer out from a cabinet behind the reception desk. This disregard for matchy-matchiness continues to the bedrooms: ours has handpainted pillars in baby pinks and blues, which bring to mind ancient Roman temples before time stripped them of their vibrant hues. Sofas and wingbacks are emblazoned with roses, and Castilian-style tiles, marquetry chests of drawers and an easy chair in Neapolitan ice-cream hues all add to the curiously concordant mix. The bed is remarkably soft, the

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bathroom floor is heated – heaven – the bath has an in-built shower and we love the twin sinks. Somehow we have forgotten both of our toothbrushes, but replacements are issued with a smile. This Mamá isn’t just a pretty face. On the roof you’ll find a plunge pool with a panoramic view over Palma, encompassing the marina and cathedral: all the better for enjoying Mallorca’s annual 300 days of sunshine a year (on average), especially when there’s a phone for summoning drinks to your sunlounger. In the basement you’ll find Cappuccino cinema, where classics and blockbusters are shown throughout the week for guests and non-guests alike. Interconnecting rooms forming an apartment on each floor add a family-friendly element, and screenings of kids’ movies ensure little ones will be entertained. While the little darlings are distracted, sneak off to the spa next door, which has a sauna, Jacuzzi and therapists for everything from aromatherapy massages to the enticingly named Fountain of Youth journey. Alternatively, secure Ivan the trainer and dietician to put you through your paces in the gym. In recent years, Mallorca’s gained Mexican-style taquerias, Peruvian restaurants and sushi joints. As a wellspring of outstanding seafood, this culture clash makes sense. Tahini showcases Mallorca’s take on Japanese fine-dining. We start with miso soup and tempura asparagus, followed by a platter of nigiri, so fresh it hasn’t even been refrigerated, each dish is delicate and the rare tuna has the consistency of good steak. Then light, crispy tempura prawns, courgette and eggplant, noodles and sticky-sweet yakitori skewers with barbecued leeks. To finish a homemade sorbet flavoured with physalis and a glass of strong cool sake. And, you needn’t wander far from your base to see the city’s

star-turns. The cathedral and waterfront are a mere five-minute walk, the beach 10 minutes, Mercat de l’Olivar is a fleet stroll north, as are Plaça Major and shopping stretch Avenida Jaume III. The Old Town’s Royal Palace, Arab baths and Es Baluard art gallery are easily explored, and the lively restaurants and bars of Santa Catalina are close for late, late nights. But, for now, we’re happy to sit outside the hotel, sipping fine wine and trying to make sense of the Cort Olive’s features – we envy it, because after just two nights, we’d similarly like to put down roots here – Mamá, may we? Our writer was hosted by Hotel Mamá, Plaça de Cort, Palma 07001. Visit www.hotelmama.es or call +34 871 03 74 37 to book.

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OUR PICK IN PALMA Looking for somewhere to eat in Mallorca? Longstanding seafood restaurant C’an Eduardo should be your first port of call… After dark, when trading has stopped, the fish market by the marina bears a passing resemblance to the sort of deserted warehouse horror movies play out in. However, on entering C’an Eduardo, which rests above the market, any feelings of apprehension dissipate into a growing hunger as you’re greeted with a – not ostentatious – display case of girthy fish and flamboyant crustacea. This sleek eatery is unshowy, decorated with hardwood floors, white walls and, somewhat doomed, white linens, with the odd soothing sea painting. Truth be told, it doesn’t need to look flashy or try-hard trendy for two very important reasons: firstly, the restaurant has been serving the sea’s bounty for more than 75 years, so its hard-earned rep precedes it. Secondly, the view: a stitched panorama of windows show Mallorca aglow at night, with the sublit Cathedral lording it over the other landmarks – a scene that makes quite the dining partner, and all the embellishment the place needs. The menu here is rich in sunken treasures, naturally. Cod, gilthead, scallops, turbot, monkfish, anchovies, prawns, mussels and more are served up in myriad tasty ways, from a simple grilling or salt crust, to supremes, risottos, pastas and croquetas. And, for good measure, typical Mallorcan delicacies (pa amb oli, Iberian ham…) are tossed in with the fisherman’s haul. To start, we each order a pair of oysters, bracingly fresh and beautifully simple, with a squeeze of lime to undercut their saltiness. Fat and flavourful, almost creamy, they’re the ideal pairing to our bottle of chilled white wine. For our next course, we’re presented with an array of surgical implements, alongside our cutlery. Although daunting at first, we’re glad of them when the sizzling pan of lobster paella arrives. We have half a lobster each, and these devices allow us to crack the sweet meat from its claws and dig out morsels from its legs. This is a visceral, hands-on experience, but the woeful state of our tablecloth is worth every succulent bite. The rice’s rich stock and tomato-ey tang, with submerged hunks of scallop make this a plate-cleaning success. The pan isn’t empty until long after we’ve demolished our lobster. With such a showstopper of a dish, it’s impossible to find a more fitting swansong to a meal – plus, we’re full and content. However, the dessert menu draws me in with its local almond cake, chocolate parfaits and lemon soufflé. I settle on a silky, rich dulce de leche ice-cream to sweetly close this fine seaside feast. Tipsy on wine and food, with a sweep of Palma’s coast laid out before me, it brings to mind the city’s sense of timelessness and how some of the island’s traditions don’t shift with the tides that lap at its edges – especially the bounty those tides bring in, something an sea-faring, long-loved eatery like C’an Eduardo understands very well. C’an Eduardo, 3 Contramuelle Mollet, Palma, Mallorca, Balearic Islands, 07012 | www.caneduardo.com

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You might think, with all this talk of you-know-what deals recently, we’d be well shot of them; but coastal town Deal – the next in line for Kent-rification after Margate’s ‘Shoreditch on Sea’ revamp – proves a welcome respite from all the bellyaching of Westminster (we’ll gloss over the fact that Nigel Farage and Ed Miliband have both stopped into friendly local boozer The King’s Head…) We’ve come to this salty Georgian sweetheart to witness the sure sign that Deal’s fortunes are turning as enthusiastically as the tides that lap at its pebbly beach: the coming of new boutique restaurant with rooms, The Rose. The Rose’s back story reads like a joke setup: ex-Wallpaper* Magazine editor Alex Bagner, brewing scion Chris Hicks, stylistturned-designer Michelle Kelly, and interiors experts Harding & Read walk into a bar. But, the punchiest thing about the outcome is rooms that don’t shy away from colour, a grannies-gone-wild clash of Liberty and retro prints, and artfully mingled Victorian, mid-century and modern statement pieces. It’s the kind of bold conversion gambit that’s proved tricky for some pubs turned hotels, luring in the DFLs yet alienating the locals; but, in the lounge downstairs – a sit-and-stay-awhile spot with sofas you can flop down on and jewel-toned velvet seats – the twain sit by the fire and play Guess Who or Monopoly contentedly. We’re slumbering in Room Four, the self-proclaimed ‘romantic showstopper’, which – to its credit – proves quite amorous. It’s painted sea-at-night navy (Farrow & Ball, natch), enlivened by the orange padded headboard of the outrageously comfortable super-king-size bed. The Seventies subtly creeps in, with chairs upholstered in vintage florals, avocado-hued tiling in our giant shower and wicker furnishings, plus a retro turntable with a draw full of vinyl to play – we try James Last’s Guitar À Gogo. It takes us a little while to get used to the barn doors that reveal our ensuite’s clawfoot bath tub, but they do cleverly make it feel like it’s in the room, if you desire it to be… I also like the sweet, squat, space-saving rolltop tubs, coloured coral and daffodil, to be found in Rooms Five and Eight. Room One, with its covetable, flowery antique bed also catches my eye. Austin Austin toiletries and a communal stand in the hallway topped with water, teas, coffees and biscuits are appreciated touches (you’ll find refreshments in-room, too). Yes, The Rose has serious style cred, but it’s not run by havea-go hipsters. Hicks’ great grandfather ran the local empire of Thompson & Son brewery, who’s pint glass overflowed with his run of more than 130 pubs in the surroundings. This opening carries on his legacy, and Hicks is planning to reintroduce the brewery’s Walmer Ale to the range of local and craft brews and cocktails served at the bar – which was built by Tracey Emin’s brother, no less, making another Emin-ent contribution to Kent’s cool factor.

A FAIR DEAL

The Kent Riviera grows on KATE WEIR as she checks in at a budding boutique stay…

‘Grub’ is present, too, on a much-praised monthly changing menu – not overly polished and reflective of the region’s farmland and fishing industry, with some excellent veggie options (celeriac and ogleshield pie, violet artichokes with dandelion and goat’s curd). My fellow diner, a chef, mocks me for ordering macaroni cheese over fish, even though we’ve come all the way to the coast. However, I maintain it’s hard to hit this comfort food’s Goldilocks Zone dead on, and The Rose nails it. Its dish is warming, rich and homey, with reservoirs of cheese at the bottom of the scrape-cleanable skillet. The chef is happy with his smoked haddock with salsify and a pokeable soft-boiled egg. I’ve been eyeing up the Dutch baby (an unholy union of Yorkshire pudding and pancake) on the dessert menu in advance of our stay. It’s the only thing I have eyes for, although clementine panna cotta and chocolate mousse with boozy prunes are equally attention grabbing. It’s a judicious choice: light and fluffy, served with home-churned mixed-peel ice-cream and spiced apple. Breakfast is on a roll, too, specifically bacon with tangy plum ketchup (sometimes alternated with rhubarb) on a floury bap. Deal itself has all the faded glamour of an old-school seaside hotspot: grand waterfront townhouses, vintage attractions, a peaceful pier from which the white cliffs glint, plus a fortified castle laid out like a mandala. But, over the years it’s known smugglers and brothels and became famous with nudge-nudgewink-wink comedians like Charles Hawtrey and Paul O’ Grady. Perhaps it’s this blend of scandal, bohemia and sea that makes it so appealing, and the fabric of the town is shifting: after council wranglings, the sea-view Deal Pier Kitchen has reopened, there are murmurs of a new cinema, and there’s already an indie record store, bougie wine bars and a quirky barbershop for all your manscaping needs. So, like the name of its blossoming new boutique stay, the future for Deal looks decidedly rosy… www.therosedeal.com - stay@therosedeal.com 91 High Street, Deal, Kent CT14 6ED - 01304 389127


WE LOVE ST LUCIA SID RAGHAVA FINDS A VIEW TO REMEMBER ON THIS CARIBBEAN ISLE…

St. Lucia ranks number one in the world, per capita, in terms of Nobel Prize winners. With an estimated population of barely 170,000 the country can boast two winners: Sir W. Arthur Lewis in 1979 for economics and the brilliant Derek Walcott for literature in 1992. Cricket fans will know that the only victory in a major international tournament by the West Indies in recent past was by a team captained by a legendary St Lucian. Darren Sammy led the union of Caribbean islands to victory at the T20 World Cup in 2014 after their last major victory in 1979. Moving swiftly on, what is the most awe-inspiring view in the Caribbean? It’s highly debatable and purely subjective, but for me it’s undoubtedly the Pitons, those breathtaking volcanic spires that rise up off the coastline of Soufrière. You may have noticed, all these seemingly disparate references share a common geographic denominator… St Lucia is a special place which exudes extraordinary natural beauty and punches well above its weight when it comes to cultural, academic and sporting pursuits. And then there’s Jade Mountain: arguably one of the most unique and memorable hotel properties in the world. Along with Anse Chastanet, the twin resorts are setting standards ultra high when it comes to eco-friendly luxury. The idyllic options never cease to amaze, but are balanced meticulously against an organic and localised approach to everything from farming for food, to recruiting manpower and protecting the environment. The luxury feel isn’t compromised, but the local community benefits greatly from its vast employment schedule (more than 500 personnel) and sustainability is a precept that colours every bit of this massive

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undertaking. If you’re planning a romantic getaway or honeymoon or just trying to get away from the humdrum day-to-day of life, this is the place you’re looking for. Each luxury suite or Sanctuary, as they most aptly like to call them, is unique but there is one constant feature – they’re not enclosed spaces. Every room has a commodious balcony overlooking a steep rock face, so you can pay tribute to the heavenly, pagan beauty of the World Heritage-recognised Pitons. An infinity pool is standard in almost all Sanctuaries and since the whole resort is seemingly carved out into the sheer mountainside, the view is stupendous beyond words and unparalleled in the whole of Soufrière and St Lucia. ‘I wanted to create individualised spatial environments that would enable guests to forget the fact they’re in a hotel room – and, in essence, to forget every preconception and experience the psychology of a dynamic and monumental space on an intuitive and primal emotional level.’ says architect and owner Nick Troubetzkoy. The open-wall design means there is no need for air-conditioning which further embellishes the green credentials of the resort. These environmentally friendly measures are reflected in all aspects of Jade Mountain and Anse Chastanet. There is also this brilliant reservoir system, based primarily on gravity, that feeds water to the rooms. The management’s long-term quest is to generate their own renewable energy. Televisions are completely absent and phones discouraged. While all of these reliable achievements on the sustainable front happen in the background, the real draws of Jade Mountain for visitors and guests are delectable food offerings

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‘The twin resorts are setting standards ultra high when it comes to eco-friendly luxury.’ HINTS, TIPS AND OTHER HIGHLIGHTS

spread across various restaurants, bars and cafés across both properties; the lush acreage replete with a variety of flora and fauna and history-imbued architecture; the gorgeous beaches and the watersports and activities around them; the magical boat rides; and the bewitching views which can be admired from all around the island. Most importantly, it’s incredibly luxurious: your unique Sanctuary or suite starts from the very point you step on to the slightly arched bridge. The serenity and calmness of the experience is visceral even before you walk into your cosy private space. The four-poster bed beckons you in and the infinity pool shimmers in the foreground of the tropical scene beyond. Major Domos, your personal butlers, look after your needs and wants most efficiently, be it bringing a particular newspaper or morning breakfast delivered to your room, or something altogether more extravagant. All rooms feature personal touches, including wooden furniture, local handicrafts and tropical curios. Almost all bathrooms have twin sinks and a hot tub. As the lights dim across the infinity pool and the Pitons appear mystically silhouetted against the beautiful night sky, guests are encouraged to stay green and light candles while they enjoy the hushed gurgle of water which is quite often the only sensory distraction. Wake up in the mornings and go up to the Celestial Terrace to experience a rejuvenating hour of yoga with Nelson Chako, a master of the art from India; or head to Kai En Ciel Spa for treatments to add wings to your soul. Culinary delights abound and Jade Mountain Club, the scenic space directly below the Celestial Terrace is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and the food (under the direction of consulting chef Allen Susser) is best described as traditionally modern in its scope and local in origin of ingredients. Its freshness and flavours astound and the diversity of food on offer flatters. The twin resorts house six restaurants, including The Treehouse and St Lucia’s best organic vegetarian restaurant, Emerald. General manager Andreas Naegele believes in giving personal care and attention to guests which underlines the reason why a majority of visitors and couples keep coming back to Jade Mountain. Matt Hanson, a friendly farmer from Texas manages Emerald Estates, an organic farm located high up on hilltop plateaus. The farm provides the twin resorts with most of the vegetables, micro greens and spices needed for its foodie offerings. St Lucia is a marvellous country. There is plenty to discover, experience and adore on this moderately sized Caribbean island. However, if you’re after the ultimate romantic setting or just somewhere to get away from quotidian concerns altogether, land at Hewanorra International Airport and drive 45 minutes north to rustic Soufrière and onwards to Jade Mountain. It’s proof that high-end luxury doesn’t have to come at a huge environmental cost. The Pitons tower across from the coast like two deities bestowing their approval. I would like to end this write-up with a quick hello to the brilliant Matt at Emerald Farm – thanks for the curry leaves and cinnamon, a wonderfully pungent reminder of the extraordinary beauty and bounty of St Lucia and Jade Mountain.

THE ALCHEMY OF TWO AT KAI EN CIEL SPA Jade Mountain’s spa offers an extensive and varied menu with both body and beauty treatments, as well as ayurvedic and holistic services. Alchemy For Two is a romantic spa ritual for couples, which begins with a play on the roles of giving and receiving in the relationship, including a synchronous massage with Tantra Vibrational Oil… SAXOPHONIST BARBARA CADET AT JADE MOUNTAIN CLUB Barbara is an accomplished musician, vocalist, arranger and composer, originally from Britain, and is a regular performer at Jade Mountain Club and other venues and restaurants within the property. Her sultry vibe fits Jade Mountain’s salubrious environs to a tee. MENO THE MASTER GUIDE AT ANSE MAME The twin resorts are proud of veteran guide Meno, who has been the heartbeat of the community for over 30 years and impresses massively with his encyclopaedic knowledge of the historical and natural aspects of the area. He considers himself the luckiest person in the world to be born in the paradise that is St Lucia. The Anse Mamin Plantation Walk is one of several on offer, where visitors are shown around the old sugar plantation and learn of the brutal history behind colonial conquests. Meno expertly peppers his conversations with interesting facts about herbs and plants and references to his childhood, such as his grandmother’s seemingly doctoral knowledge of spices. EMERALD ESTATE ORGANIC FARM Guests can meet Dr Pawan Srivastava and learn about a plethora of natural produce, including mangoes, peppers, jackfruit, kale, asparagus, mushrooms, vanilla beans, nutmeg trees and cinnamon trees. Guests can also learn about the secret healing power of certain herbs and why the cocoa tree is the most intelligent of all plant species. JUNGLE BEACH GRILL It does what it says on the tin. This is a Beach Grill by the jungle and it produces some of the island’s best burgers. GROS PITON CLIMB Gros Piton may be the taller Piton, but it’s the less steep of the two, and hence allows easier ascent. It may be easier to climb, but the 2,700 feet or so to the top are definitely challenging. However, the end result is staggeringly gorgeous, with the view from the top encompassing some of the greenest bits of St Lucia and the faintest view of St Vincent. So, this should be a priority for all visitors, young and old. Caribtours (www.caribtours.co.uk / 020 3553 7543) offers seven nights at Anse Chastanet, St Lucia from £1,915 a person, sharing a Standard Garden View Room including breakfast, flights, lounge access and private transfers. Caribtours (www.caribtours.co.uk / 020 3553 7543) offers seven nights at Jade Mountain, St Lucia from £3,799 a person, sharing a Sky Jacuzzi Suite, including breakfast, flights, lounge access and private transfers.

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CEARÁ;

BRAZIL’S PATH LESS TRODDEN

HARRIET BEDDER travels to the northeast coast of Brazil to chase the surf and ride the dunes; a far cry from the more southerly tourist traps. When you first start planning a holiday in Brazil, remarks about women clad in tiny bikinis strutting down Ipanema Beach abound, plus warnings about overdoing the generously measured caipirinhas in Copacabana. But, instead of focusing on what flamboyantly coloured headdresses we will be adorned in while samba-ing down Cordão da Bola Preta, at the Rio Carnival, the focus of our adventures shifts away from the south and the wellknown cities of São Paolo and Rio de Janeiro, to northeast and the laid-back city of Fortaleza in the municipality of Ceará. Brazil is actually the same size as the United States – and Fortaleza is Brazil’s fourth most-populated city – but it rarely features on European holiday itineraries, who favour the more commercial tourist traps of the southern cities. Ceará has an enticing laidback lifestyle, thus tourism plays a large role in its economy, with many Brazilians travelling north to experience the state’s waterfalls, beaches and rainforests in the summer months. One of the unique selling points of Ceará is its climate, which maintains a temperature of 22–36°c year-round. And, with its coastal location with 370 miles of immaculate beaches at the edge of the Atlantic Ocean, the breeze offsets

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the heat and humidity enough to keep the perfect temperature consistent. It’s Ceará’s climate that draws the majority of its tourists to the region. With strong winds and a pleasantly clement air, the praias attract surfers of all ilk, with amateurs and professionals coming from around the world to experience its blustery beauty. About two hours’ drive North of Fortaleza Airport, in Trairi – on the Costa do Sol puente or ‘Sunset Coast’– lies Zorah Beach Hotel, a small boutique stay with 22 rooms and suites of varying sizes, sitting on the outskirts of Guajiru, a small fishing town of around 800 residents. A walk through the town reveals fishermen cleaning and preparing their daily catches for dinner, a small local shop and two bar-cum-restaurants. The hotel manager encourages us to wander over and enjoy a light meal in one of these eateries in order to give back to the community; after all, the hotel itself is completely self-sufficient and hires only locals from Guajiru to work, clean and cook. Privately owned by an expat gentleman from India, the hotel’s Asian design aesthetic is visibly reflected in the furnishings and decor throughout, with carved mahogany furniture in the

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‘Brazil is actually the same size as the United States…’ bedrooms, beaded light fittings in the restaurant and Buddhas galore. Take a few steps from the hammock-laden palm trees near the outdoor bar and you’ll find yourself on a vast beach. There are no neighbours, not a soul in sight, and the beach runs as far as the eye can see in either direction. The hotel is marketed as a place to relax, where you’re cut off from the world – it’s a far cry from nearby Jericoacoara, where the party never stops. When staying at Zorah Beach, make time to take a cruise down the Mundaú river to spot crabs in the mangroves that line the banks. For something really special, disembark and watch as the sun sets over the sand dunes with a glass of champagne. South of Fortaleza - on the Costa do nascente or ‘Sunrise Coast’ is Carmel Charme Resort, a paradisiacal luxury hotel with an air of 21st-century extravagance, attentive staff and top-class amenities. The huge swimming pool spans the width of the hotel and overlooks the private beach and Ocean. But, with a swimup bar serving fresh Caju caipirinhas, we’d put out bets on you looking in the opposite direction. A spa offers bespoke massages, allowing you to unwind before the same panoramic vistas you can enjoy from the restaurant. At dinner, you’re encouraged to try the chefs regional delicacies, such as file de peixe ao molho de caju (catch of the day with cashew sauce) and skewered tapioca with chilli jam. In Barro Preto, you discover how diverse Ceará’s environment is. A dune-buggy ride arranged by the hotel takes you through some rough caatinga (a desert landscape complete with cacti) before hitting the beach, driving along the sand past fisherman and families enjoying the weekend. Suddenly, you arrive at the sail-boat-lined Rio Catu that sits less than 500 metres from the Ocean. Stop to admire the juxtaposition of fresh and saltwater so close together, because a few minutes later, you will be roaring past food stalls and bars where locals are enjoying some tapioca. Finally, you’re back on concrete in the town of Aquiraz, where everything becomes drastically hotter, away from the sea breeze. The town is famous for its lace-makers and ladies sell their wares in the open markets to tourists and southerners who visit to watch the masters at work. Buy a tablecloth – just make sure you go for a vibrant red or yellow instead of classic white. A common error, as it looks beautiful in the sunshine but becomes reminiscent of your grandma’s doilies on return to the UK. Head back through more caatinga and scrubland and you hit the sand dunes. Here the drivers really let loose and you find yourself crashing over the mounds at breakneck speeds. Suddenly you convene at a high point of the dune where the locals have set up sheltered makeshift bars, serving fresh coconuts and beer for the bikers. For the adventurous, take the opportunity to go on an adrenaline-pumping ride down a nearvertical slide from the dunes to the lake below; otherwise sit and admire the breathtaking view. However much time you spend in Ceará, you’ll find there’s no lack of biodiversity to discover or adventure to partake in. And, beyond, there’s so much to see and learn in Brazil, especially in the next stop on our hitlist: the north and the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park, where unbelievable vistas of sand dunes collect rainwater seasonally, creating overwhelmingly beautiful lagoons. We can’t wait…

TAP Air Portugal has a daily departure to Fortaleza from London City, Heathrow, Gatwick and Manchester via Lisbon. Prices start at £522 one way including all taxes and surcharges. For further information, visit www.flytap.com or call 0345 601 0932 Discover two destinations for the price of one with TAP’s Portugal Stopover Programme, which enables passengers travelling to TAP’s long-haul destinations to stop off for up to five nights in Lisbon or Porto at no extra cost.

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LEGAL HIGHS Once a barrier to Oman’s interior, the Al Hajar mountains now feature steeply twisting roads to whisk tourists up to some of the highest vantage points in the Middle East. SARAH RODRIGUES explores from the five-star comfort of the area’s recently opened Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort. Clouds are drifting beneath my feet as I cling to the underside of a narrow lip on the wall of a canyon in Oman’s western Hajar Mountains. At an elevation of 2,095m, it’s not uncommon for the village of Al Qasha, at the canyon’s base, to be completely obscured. The Activity Wall is a highlight of the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar experience, and the highest via ferrata (climbing trail) in the Middle East. Clambering along the rocks that line the area between the hotel and the rim of the canyon, there’s no real indication of what lies ahead of – or perhaps more accurately, below – us, even once we are securely attached to the start of the cable line by way of a locked carabiner. It’s only as we round the first boulder that the ground drops away beneath us, revealing the vast expanse of rugged limestone canyon beyond. Rocks in washed-out desert hues seem to be frozen midfall, a tumbling still life of jagged edges and sculptural shapes. It’s the same view I’ve marvelled at multiple times over the past few days but, removed from the comfort of my room’s balcony sofa, my admiration is coupled with a small but definite lurch of the stomach. I’d made the most of the resort’s stupendous breakfast

spread this morning, full of sensible thoughts about energy levels and blood sugar. Now, however, I’m not entirely sure it was so sensible. After a two-hour drive from Muscat, it was dark on arrival at Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar, a fact that only made the prospect of waking the following morning even more exciting. Having seen the resort’s photos, it was maddening to not be able to view what lay beyond the balcony windows. Sunrise bathed the view’s basin of chalky rock in a rosy pink glow, but – short of growing a super-long neck to peer over its rim – nothing could have prepared me for how it would feel to be inching along its knife-edge ledge on the inner wall with an endangered Egyptian vulture drifting along on air currents beneath me. Strung out for 200 metres along the canyon, the course ends with a series of zip wires which, despite forcing you to dangle in mid air at a great height, provide a welcome relief from the calf-straining tip-toeing we’ve been engaged in: how blissful to simply let go and trust the equipment to glide you over to the next ledge. Another climb, this time vertical, marks the end of the experience, and our shoulders are tight with the exertion


‘Nothing could have prepared me for how it would feel to be inching along a knife-edge ledge on the inner wall of the canyon with an endangered Egyptian vulture drifting on air currents beneath me.’

of hauling ourselves up the metal rungs back up to resort level. We emerge by Diana’s Point, so named because the Princess of Wales made a 1986 visit to this very spot – although at the time, there were no roads, let alone a luxury hotel. Dropped here by helicopter, she is said to have spent her few hours in this lunar landscape reading her book; meanwhile, Charles tried to capture its brutal splendour in watercolours. Idyllic? Maybe – but the blood still racing thrillingly through my veins tells me that they missed out on something more exhilarating. Despite its royal endorsement – and groups of tourists eager to play here – there’s a harsh reality to the bleak beauty of this landscape, which is, and always has been, the question of water. Although Jabal Akhdar means ‘green mountain’, there’s no verdant foliage carpeting its folds; rather, ripples of bleached green hint at the agriculture that gives this area its reputation as the fruit bowl of Oman. Thanks to its elevation, Al Akhdar benefits from mild temperatures – it’s around 15 degrees cooler than Muscat – but climate alone cannot nourish these farms of pomegranate, apricots, walnuts, pears, garlic, onion and olives, and the ever-scarce rainfall is now scarcer than ever. The Damask rose harvest, during which the air is heavy with scent from mid-March to mid-May, lasted for just three weeks in April last year. Necessity is the mother of invention, and mountain village inhabitants across thousands of years have devised an irrigation system, called falaj (the plural is aflaj), that feeds the area via a network of aqueducts, supplied by mountain springs; there are also terraces, cut into the canyon sides like giant steps leading up from the boulder-strewn basin. Three of these villages (Al Aqr, Al Ayn and Ash Shirayajah) are within walkable reach of the Anantara, linked by a chain of winding paths, uneven terrain and steep staircases that leave one or two in our group feeling decidedly unsteady. The villages are all but deserted now; almost everyone has moved to the purpose-built ‘New Town’ nearby, where medical care and education are accessible. Our guide’s parents had to trek for two hours to reach school, we’re told; and, in his day, it was reached by a military truck ‘school bus’. Even so, our guide tells us, there’s a local man who, at the age of 100, still walks this route to his village from ‘New Town’ each

day to worship at his lifelong mosque. Deserted, but not abandoned, this land is still tended, and the animals – primarily goats, (although there’s also a tethered zebu, whom we christen Emil) – are chomping away at the sparse foliage. Elsewhere, men squat in the vegetable rows to prune and tame. Our guide pours water over a boulder to highlight its many fossils; despite the elevation, which has triggered headaches in more than one of us, this entire area was once underwater. The structures within the villages themselves are upwards of 500 years old and protected; their original walls of mud and grass preserved within more recent skins and fronted by newer doors in a variety of colours and designs. By one of these, we stop for an Omani coffee spiced with saffron, cardamom and rosewater, and served with dates for a dash of sweetness. We follow the path of a falaj, past withered pomegranates hanging from trees like ancient testicles, to a waterfall; it is trickling, rather than crashing, after a winter period of more than two months without rain. The hardships of life in the region are, of course, in no way felt at the Anantara, where exceptional service swaddles you in the notion that nothing is too much trouble and an expansive and indulgent spa provides a variety of treatments. The rooms, with their low-key luxury, allow the views to take centre stage, while restaurants illuminated by cut-work metal lamps, serve a mouthwatering spread of foods from all cultures. A lack of water? The infinity-edge pool, plus the lushly planted gardens, fed by recycled water from the deep baths and rainfall showers, could easily lull you into believing a different reality. ‘Hardship’, such as it is, is most felt on our final night, when the skies, at last, open to unleash torrential rain, and walking from room to bar takes place under the cover of expansive umbrellas, bare feet sliding in open shoes. Tomorrow, that starved waterfall will be proud and fulsome; I’d happily tread those uneven mountain paths again to see it so. Oman Air (www.omanair.com) flies to Muscat, Oman twice a day from Heathrow. Return fares start from £420 economy, £2,450 business class per person Nightly rates at Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort start from £203. www.anantara.com/en/jabal-akhdar British passport-holders require a tourist visa, which costs around £10 and can be applied for online, for stays of fewer than 10 days www.evisa.rop.gov.om

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PERFECT BLESS WHY YOU HAVE TO ‘VIVE UNA VIDA HEDONISTA’ IN MADRID January is one of the gloomiest months of the year, so a city break to Madrid was a much-needed treat for our new luxury travel writer EMMA HARRISON. What can be better than staying in a five-star luxury hotel? Staying in a BRAND NEW five-star luxury hotel of course. There is something rather rewarding about staying in a room that hasn’t been slept in, a restaurant that hasn’t presented an amuse bouche and a bar that serves its maiden cocktail. The BLESS Hotel Madrid was so new, the rooftop pool hadn’t even opened yet, but this didn’t matter as there was plenty to see and do at this stylish hotel. This isn’t just luxury, this is pure hedonism – a unique proposition designed for modern travellers, sybarites and pleasure-seekers. In its own words. The hotel aims to ‘worship the pursuit of happiness and the good life’ and is situated in the exclusive quarter of Salamanca, home to fantastic restaurants, uber cool bars and chic boutiques. Located in a renovated period building on the Calle de Velázquez, this new hotel (part of a new group called BLESS Collection Hotels from the Palladium Hotel Group, with the BLESS Ibiza opening this summer), has been transformed into a stylish and elegant haven. The hotel’s interiors are bold, decadent and vintage-inspired, created by acclaimed Spanish designer Lázaro Rosa-Violan. His creative aim for this new hotel was is to create a ‘quintessentially Madrilenian character with a contemporary slant’. Lázaro’s vision is reflected in every aspect of the design; from the mosaic floors and warm colours inspired by Spanish architecture and the bullrings to the patterns in the soft furnishings, which show Spanish country landscapes and hunting scenes. Despite some new bold features, such as the roulette-wheel bar, many of the original features have been retained, such as the marble on the walls throughout the awe-inspiring winding

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staircase and the original Murano-glass panels. The bedrooms take their inspiration from the traditional ‘highstanding houses’ in the Salamanca district of Madrid. The rooms are spacious, impeccably designed and come with our very own walk-in wardrobe, a little lounge area, an over-sized bed and a glamourous bathroom complete with rolltop bath. Your every whim is catered for – from ordering from your very own pillow menu to choosing which scented bath oil to pour into the steaming bathwater. As you wander throughout the hotel, the keen-nosed of you will note that within each area, there is a different type of smell (from calming to energising) and even different genres of music are played in the public areas. Perhaps the pièce de résistance, is Spain’s most celebrated chef (he has 10 Michelin stars!) Martín Berasategui’s restaurant Etxeko. It is surely set to become a true destination culinary experience thanks to its authentic and first-class dining, with dishes like dry-aged basque beef, suckling pig and octopus on the menu. His menu is a tribute to nature’s larder and to Spanish gastronomy – it’s both sophisticated and comforting in equal measure. They have an impressive wine list too, which includes Madrid’s very own ‘El Rincon’ Naturally, eating well forms a significant part of the BLESS ‘hedonistic’ ethos. When it comes to one of the hottest hotel openings for 2019, the BLESS Madrid is certainly a strong contender and ticks every single box when it comes to a luxurious city break. Emma was hosted by BLESS Hotel Madrid for this article. Visit www.blesscollectionhotels.com or call +34 915 75 28 00 to book. Rooms are available from £236 a night.

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ADVERTORIAL

LONDON YACHT SHOW ANNOUNCES FIRST WAVE OF EXHIBITING BRANDS London On Water has been reborn as London Yacht Show in its fifth year; it promises to keep up the tradition of being the biggest and most exciting event of its kind. Sunseeker, Princess and Fairline have joined more than 10 brands that have signed up to exhibit their boats and yachts. The significant others include Azimut, Bayliner, Bavaria Power & Sail, Chris Craft Boats, Discovery Yachts, Greenline, Hallberg Rassy, Malibu Boats, Sunsail Yacht Ownership and Sealine. London on Water was acquired by Informa in late 2018 and the show will now be organised in conjunction with partners British Marine and St Katharine Docks. Addressing media at a press conference in early February, Andrew Williams (President of Maritime and Informa Markets) said: ‘The decision to completely relaunch this event was not taken lightly so to get the immediate support of such significant’ to ‘taken lightly, so to get the immediate support of such significant brands is a true reflection of the confidence the industry has that London Yacht Show will be an important platform in the international boat show calendar.’ The relaunched show will be organised by Informa Markets with partners British Marine and St Katharine Docks. ‘This will be a significantly different show to previous years,’ added Williams, ‘and follows on from extensive research to ensure we are delivering the right audience to the exhibitors while providing a great on-water experience for visitors.’ The decision to rebrand and evolve London Yacht Show into a world-class luxury event in the heart of the capital has also been welcomed by Colin Capewell, Managing Director of

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Princess Motor Yacht Sales, who said: ‘To be able to showcase our boats in this iconic setting, on the water, is a great platform for us to reach our customer base. We look forward to supporting this event and seeing the new audience that is delivered.’ Keeping the venue as the historic St Katharine Docks, London Yacht Show will host two floating villages with full-size event marquees, including a Platinum Pavilion featuring luxury yachting and lifestyle products and a Monument Marquee, featuring boating accessories and toys. Luxury cars, bikes and trailer boats will be on display at the Docks’ Marble Quay. VIP Elite guests will enjoy a preview day on the Wednesday and VIP ticket holders will be able to enjoy the floating champagne bar, VIP Lounge and concierge service. Paul Tetlow, Marina General Manager at St Katharine Docks, said: ‘We are delighted to host the show at St Katharine Docks. The show allows us the opportunity to showcase what St Katharine Docks offers to a very relevant and international boating market including boat owners, suppliers and marine industry professionals. We’re pleased to be working with Informa and British Marine and are confident that visitors and exhibitors to the show will have great success too.’ Tickets are now available for visitors to purchase in midFebruary through the website: www.londonyachtshow.com The London Yacht Show will open: Wednesday 8 May: 2pm– 9pm (VIP Elite and press only) – this is the pre-show viewing for VIP Elite pass holders only. For more information, visit www.britishmarine.co.uk

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ST. KATHARINE DOCKS

LONDON

8TH - 12TH MAY 2019

A YACHT SHOW LESS ORDINARY AWAITS

Discover Luxury and Glamour Unbound Come, experience and be our guest. Join us on the water in London for an extraordinary Yacht show this spring.

www.londonyachtshow.com London Yacht Show

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@LondonYachtShow


A TOTALLY RAD’ SCOTTISH STAY

Designers, drams and ‘doga’: KATE WEIR checks into the Radisson Collection Hotel Royal Mile Edinburgh. Edinburgh has recently undergone a boom in boutique and luxury hotels – mod aparthotel Eden Locke, stylishly tartanflecked Dunstane House and the revamped Principal Hotel in Charlotte Square are forward-thinking newcomers shaking up a slightly staid scene. However, the former Missoni and G&V Royal Mile hotel has been continuously reinventing itself and is about to undergo further exciting advances under the Radisson Collection umbrella in 2019, so we headed to Auld Reekie to see what’s underway. It’s a charming stay in many ways, but its prime asset is its unbeatable location, just a few steps from the Royal Mile, at the top of beloved, often-Instagrammed Victoria Street, within walking distance of all the city’s headline acts and the Old and New Town. Positioned here on the George IV Bridge, it also has views out to Arthur’s Seat from the upper floors, and the grand, sooty council buildings and public libraries running down to the Greyfriar’s Bobby memorial and the university beyond. As the Missoni Hotel, the hotel was kitted out in a colourful gloss of Pop Art pinks and purples, clashed with polka-dot and chevron patterns. As the G&V, the hotel’s walls were scribbled with iconic local scenes; Scottish print and textile brand Timorous Beasties brought their mod-baroque flair to suites, and others were styled by artists such as Hatti Pattison and Christine Clark, and fashion designer Judy R Clarke, whose fantastical wearables we see paraded at the launch party. As of my visit, the hotel is somewhere between the two, so it’s intriguing to see if the Radisson will redecorate. However, they needn’t hurry, the rooms’ and suites’ cloud-soft beds, large flatscreens and coffee and tea on tap are as homey and welcoming a sight as ever. At the launch we get a taste of planned innovations and

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the hotel’s commitment to local producers. I try honey from the hotel’s rooftop apiary and fine whiskies to be served in the bar (the very exclusive, ‘chocolate malt and gingerbread’ whisky – for members of the Scotch Whisky Society – takes my fancy), and there are liberal pours at the Rock Rose gin and vodka stations. A tempting Italian buffet hints at the menu of awardwinning eatery Cucina’s elegant menu, overseen by chef Andrew McQueen – and their Sunday brunch is a welcome refuge for hungover revellers. A select cocktail edit is being shaken up over Epicurean bar’s marble countertop – as a matter of journalistic integrity I try them all, and conclude my favourite is the Royal Copenhagen: a drink inspired by Verner Panton’s ‘Pink Lips’, with cardamom-infused gin, Chambord, raspberry syrup and a squeeze of lemon. Other innovations include ‘doga’ (dog yoga) sessions, vegan afternoon tea and a ‘living art’ concept, which allows guests to buy any in-room piece that takes their fancy. This hotel may have taken a while to find its footing, but the Radisson have proved their fortunes with another Edinburgh stay, just a few metres away on the Royal Mile, so it looks like this new property will follow suit. Our faith is further cemented by the breakfast of haggis, black pudding and proper Scottish sausages the next morning – we’re sad to check out, but at least we have an exciting new home to return to here. Our writer was hosted by the Radisson Collection Hotel Royal Mile Edinburgh. Rates at Radisson Collection Hotel Royal Mile Edinburgh start from £209 a night inclusive of breakfast. To book, please visit www.radissoncollection.com/en/royalmile-hotel-edinburgh or call +44 (0)131 220 6666.

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THE PETERSHAM 2 Floral Court, London, WC2E 9FB WORDS: KATE WEIR Covent Garden is thronged with people in no hurry to orient themselves, stopping dead to watch living statues or check their phones. But, turn off aptly named Floral Street into Floral Court and suddenly you’re in the Petersham restaurant’s secret-garden terrace, buffeted from the bustle with flowering shrubs and magnolia trees, and an optimistic array of tables laid out for alfresco dining. A green-fingered feel continues within the Grade II-listed townhouse where the Petersham empire has bloomed as enthusiastically as the flowers and fortunes of owners, the Boglione family (a tirelessly tasteful boho brood). There are wildflower posies on each table, vases with dramatic modern arrangements standing sentry-like along the middle of the dining room, palms and ferns potted and placed in corners. But, you’d expect no less from the family, the masterminds of beloved Petersham Nurseries in Richmond. They’ve brought their green-fingered gastronomy to the city centre, with a duo of restaurants (the casual, cocktail-proffering La Goccia and fine-dining Petersham), a boutique, deli and florist. Seasonal sproutings and fertile terroir colour the menu: a taxonomy of homegrown vegetables and herbs, alongside meats reared on Haye Farm in Devon (run by scion Harry Boglione) and artisanal produce flown in from Italy. The Petersham has pledged allegiance to the slow-food movement (Gael Boglione hails from Bra, the crucible of the philosophy), and dishes change with each season’s gleanings. Many ingredients are harvested from the Nurseries, and you can be sure of your meal’s sustainability: the family source responsibly, operate organically, and recycle rigidly – even the chef jackets

HANS BAR & GRILL 164 Pavilion Road, Chelsea, London SW1X 0AW WORDS: KATE WEIR Chelsea’s 11 Cadogan Hotel is no shrinking violet – it has a mirrored bar with a white piano, bedrooms with swagged fourposter beds and tasseled canopies, dabs of gilding, the odd scarlet chandelier… it’s a true dandy. However, its eatery Hans Bar and Grill, tucked away down polished Pavilion Road off Sloane Square, is somewhat more restrained, with a dining room of whitewashed exposed brick, dovegrey walls, mint-hued seats and Guccistripe green banquettes. But, it needs little adornment to shine; it has a glittering team behind it: general

are made from discarded bottle caps. That’s not to say The Petersham is lacking in decadence. Burlesque Muranoglass chandeliers drip sparklingly from the ceilings, and pieces of modern art by the likes of Sarah Graham give the elegant setup an edgy jolt. The food (the applaudable work of chef-director Damian Clisby and his team), is a rare pleasure too. We start with a plate of fresh puntarelle leaves, served alla Romana in a salad both peppery and sweet, sprinkled with anchovy and garlic and drizzled with high-quality olive oil. To accompany, light, just-baked focaccia topped with punch-packing tendrils of onion, added mid-baking for the fullest, richest flavour. To start, beef-shin ragu is a effusive Italian greeting of a dish: warm, comforting, an experience you’d gladly repeat. Freshly made taglioni ribbons, fall-apart meat and a fresh sprinkling of parmesan commingle with eloquently composed herbs. My dining partner’s dish is a lighter, more photogenic affair, with delicate slices of perfectly cooked scallop (a nifty trick to pull off) with sunshine rounds of navel orange, dill and parsley – also delicious. My main is a pliable pork loin (cooked to optimal tenderness), with Dauphinoise

potatoes and cabbage. It comes served in a bowl – my personal bugbear – but, it needn’t matter as said bowl returns to the kitchen dutifully clean. An order of exquisitely simple whole Dover sole (line caught that day off the Cornish coast), grilled to perfection, spritzed with Amalfi lemon and sprinkled with capers is another success. To finish we order a lightly brûléed Amalfi lemon tart, not cheek-puckering or cloying, accompanied by a quenelle of spoon-lickably creamy marscapone; and a raw-milk red Leicester cheese from Neal’s Yard Dairy complemented by damson jam with the fudgy consistency of a pâte de fruit. The wines paired with each dish hail from Petersham Cellar (another Boglione offshoot) – all are Italian, of course, and service is on top form. Undoubtedly this family business still has room to grow: indeed, they’ve started a programme of classes in wine and tea tasting, pastamaking and such, and their menu includes a blossom-bedecked afternoon tea. But, they needn’t deploy such honey traps to lure me back in – another bowlful of ragu will do the trick…

manager Simon Smith hails from Berners Tavern, head chef Adam England hails from Le Pont de la Tour, and there’s a gaggle of amiable waiting staff, and – if you count his remote influence – gloriously bewigged baronet, physicist, museum founder and patron, and the man who introduced chocolate to the UK: Sir Hans Sloane. As the restaurant’s namesake, his picture hangs behind the bar. But, before the sweet stuff, there are seasonal savouries we’re eager to tuck into, served in three distinct size ranges: nibbles, starters and mains. To nibble, warming cauliflower-cheese croquettes and a line up of three rock-oyster Bloody Mary shots. The latter is a genius idea, taking away the fiddliness of hawking back an oyster by submerging it in a spicy tomato shot that

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complements the mollusc’s saltiness. Then, we order a raft of starters: a slender block of ham-hock terrine with leek comes paired with spiced pear, and we wolf down a leafy rocket dish with Bayonne ham, pear, and dollops of creamy burrata, drizzled with a truffle dressing. Abundance of pear aside, these showcase the quality of the ingredients well. For mains, we turn to the Grill section of the menu – I order the grass-fed English sirloin, medium rare, with truffle mayo; my dining partner orders the burger, which is a fittingly upmarket incarnation. Portion sizes are large and we’re soon full, but it seems only fitting to order the Valrhona chocolate fondant in deference to good old Hans. The menu is notable for championing English wines, I’m thrilled to see Nyetimber Cuvée and Chapel Down Brut rubbing shoulders with Veuve Clicquot and Ruinart. And, there are some impressively inventive dishes for vegetarians, too – even I, a dedicated carnivore, am eyeing up the herb crumpet with fig, goat’s curd and honey. The breakfast menu is an effective alarm clock too – I’d happily wake before noon for a Bellini flavoured for each season or eggs Benedict served in a croissant. After such a decadent feast, who’s in the mood for subtlety, and 11 Cadogan is a few steps away, so scarlet chandeliers, burnished bar counters and mirrored piano rooms, here we come…

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BRINDISA 7-9 Exhibition Road, Kensington, London SW7 2HE WORDS: KATE WEIR ‘Brindis’ comes from ‘raising one’s glass in a toast’. And there’s little more cause for raising a cheers than a visit to terrific tapas bar and restaurant Brindisa. Their spread of Spanish delicacies reaches far and wide, they were one of the first – still going strong – artisanal shops in Borough Market, providing haunches of jamón Ibérico, DOP manchego, octopus, olives, oils, caperberries, anchovies, pâtés and more to restaurants around the city – as well as running a jamón school. Founder Monika Linton wanted to show people the quality and diversity of Spanish gastronomy at a time when it was little appreciated or known in the UK and she did so with gusto. With such treats in their larder, a tapas bar and restaurant was inevitable, and in 2004 they opened London’s first traditional stop-and-eat tapas bar in an old potato warehouse. Now, Brindisa has five restaurants in London (its latest opened in Battersea last year). We’ve come to its third opening, in South Kensington, a short amble from the borough’s powerhouse museums, the brand’s largest depository of Spanish farmhouse cheese (hello, Idiazabal, Mahón and Monte Enebro goats cheese with orange-blossom honey and

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beetroot crisps). We order enough to fill the table – a basket of pillow-y sourdough and highquality oil jostles with a fanned-out platter of meats: lomo, chorizo, salchichón and paleta, each thinly sliced and pungently porky. There’s a small bowl of ham croquetas, bread smeared thickly with piquant ‘nduja and a cooling, creamy ricotta, juicy prawns, sizzling and spitting in garlicky oil. Bacalao (salt cod) arrives with mashed potato, slices of piquillo pepper and pimento paste – it’s the dish that resonates the least with us, but we’re impressed at how well the flavours complement each other. Our favourite dish is the Arroz Negro: squid’s ink risotto with aioli and chunks of squid. Not only is it visually striking, but it’s comfortingly squidgy with a powerful punch of garlic. We’re also taken with Brindisa’s signature dish, a grilled chorizo sausage split and served on sourdough with piquillo peppers and fresh cuttings of rocket. To finish – somehow we still have room – the Tarta de Santiago, a crumbly almondbased confection with vanilla ice-cream. Throughout we drink reds rom the lengthy wine list, which is littered with fine Spanish vintages; the cava, sherry and cocktail lists are worth musing on too, with picks from Jerez and Sanlúcar de Barrameda and a sherry-splashed negroni. This European juggernaut shows no sign of dipping in quality as its empire grows. It’s still serving delightful sociable fare and offers a delicious education in Spain’s diverse regional dining. And, in the brief instances when we’re not joyously picking at plates, what more can we say to that than a hearty ‘Brindis’.


THE COLONY GRILL ROOM AT THE BEAUMONT 8 Balderton Street, Brown Hart Gardens, W1K 6TF WORDS: HARRIET BEDDER The lighting in The Colony Grill – important, as the dining room is windowless – is so subtle, forgiving, and easy on the eyes that it makes everything seem private and everyone seem incognito, even Victoria Beckham sitting in the middle of the room would go unnoticed (it could happen – this is one of Posh Spice’s favourite haunts, and she regularly brings her brood for dinner). It’s the first thing I admire about the restaurant, after trying hard to suss out the source of that ‘je ne sais quoi’ feeling I get when we are seated. After adjusting to the warm glow, my eyes scan the surroundings and the Hollywood headshots that line the wall in frames – a true touch of 1920s glamour. It feels as if it would be inappropriate to visit without being clad in some ensemble evoking old-world glamour: a flapper dress and a three-piece suit would not look out of place here due to its Mad Men, rich-mahogany vibe. In fact, I feel like the couple on the table next to us are more likely to light up a Cuban and a Camel while I enjoy my starter, than they are to pull out a mobile phone or take a picture of their martini. What’s more, if the former were to happen, I wouldn’t bat an eyelid. I almost expect to see Ray Liotta, Robert de Niro and Joe Pesci laughing raucously in a booth nearby. The Colony Grill serves American comfort food at its finest and it’s of no surprise to me when I hear that Miami-based artist, Alec Monopoly, has flown into London earlier today and headed straight to the restaurant for a hamburger and side of mac and cheese ahead of a glitzy evening mingling with London’s art scene. Deciding what to order proves to be the hardest part of the evening – second to navigating the American wine menu – but we settle on the steak tartare to start, later deemed a judicious choice. Dover sole is a dish we haven’t tried in a while, so we order the béarnaise-laced fish, with all the trimmings, for the table to share. Alec’s favourite, the macaroni cheese, is creamy and indulgent and the sweetcorn with chipotle takes us right back to our travels through Arizona and recalls the great Mexican influence on the cuisine we discovered there. All of the sides are deliciously moreish and though there’s a lot on offer (whipped potatoes, creamed spinach galore…), nothing is too fanciful nor rich, and we happily scoff down that’s on the table before assessing the room for dessert. While the more sensible diners at the table are satisfied with their hearty meals, the DIY-sundae notepad I am given makes me nostalgic for holidays in Florida as a child. I can’t ignore the overwhelming need to place an order, just for the novelty, and before I know it, I have ordered a hazelnut ice-cream with caramel corn and hot-chocolate sauce and feel decidedly like I am sitting in a 1950s-style diner in Orlando surrounded by beanie babies (as I did in 1998). When the waiter brings my fluted sundae, the child in me revels in every gluttonous bite. The Colony Grill is an indulgent affair, for its decadent 1920s Art Deco surroundings as well as the food. Aside from novelty or ‘overdone’ American dining, this kind of comfort fine-dining is impossible to find elsewhere in London. As we leave, we’re forced to snap back to reality, but not before a bell-boy chivalrously calls a cab over to get us there. Tip: For a pre-dinner apéritif, order the deliciously more-ish Beaumont Cocktail (gin, dry sherry, elderflower, pineapple, lemon juice, sugar and champagne) in the American Bar.

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LES 110 DE TAILLEVENT 16 Cavendish Square, Marylebone, London W1G 9DD WORDS: SUSAN SAUNDERS On behalf of all you ravenous yet discerning readers out there, hungry for an eating experience both chic and satisfying, an intrepid twosome from the KCR explored the hinterland between Oxford Circus and Marylebone, and found themselves on a corner of Cavendish Square one rainy February night, staring up at the imposing façade of what appeared to be an old bank. And so it was, but it glowed so attractively inside, with row upon row of bottles, green and golden, lit from within, and the welcome we received was so warm, that we laid aside our fear of financial institutions, and gave ourselves up to the irresistible prospect of an evening of fine dining. Left to my own devices I might never have made it inside at all, for the name of this restaurant is a bit baffling to the uninitiated: it appears, to the untutored eye, a bit like an address, just not the one you were looking for. So all credit goes to my gallant companion, who managed to raise his eyes from his mobile phone long enough to usher me within and explain the whole thing, with a little help from the utterly delightful, calm and unfussy staff. Les 110 de Taillevent has its mothership in Paris, specialising in the perfect pairing of wines and precisely composed dishes. ‘Les 110’ refers to the number of different wines you can obtain by the glass, while ‘Taillevent’ was the nickname of a celebrated chef back in the 14th century, and means ‘slice-wind’ – like a sail – so I imagine Monsieur Tirel zooming around the Royal kitchens like a nippy dinghy, or possibly just slicing his carrots and courgettes incredibly fast. It may be a talking point, but for a Brit like me it doesn’t trip easily off the tongue – there’s a lot to be said for a name like Maxim’s – or, indeed, Nando’s. Having settled in – maybe nobody puts Baby in a corner, but in my experience that’s where they always put reviewers – with the help of a couple of glasses of Pascal Doquet Champagne I was beginning to relax, and happily agreed to the general suggestion that we both try the tasting menu. The advantage of this was that we could enjoy and discuss the same dishes, while sampling and comparing both levels of wine pairing: the less expensive ‘Discovery’ selection, and the alluringly named ‘Prestige’, which my companion pounced on. But I had the last laugh, for each of my wines complemented every exquisite little course, and I actually preferred the less

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fancy choices. I’m a simple soul, and perhaps the richer, more complex flavours are pearls before swine where I’m concerned. The 10-year-old Madeira Bual from Blandy’s smelt divine – like the woodwork department at college – and I felt fairly sure that this was exactly as it should be. I was more discombobulated to awake from a reverie involving either the lobster or the halibut, to hear the wine-waiter confiding something to my dining partner about six days of skin contact, but this turned out to concern a wine from the Arretxea domaine, and referred strictly to grape skins. They are very proud of their spelt and lobster risotto, and if I understood them rightly, it is the one thing that never changes in the menu. The lobster flavour was amazing, but the texture of the glistening globules of spelt I found a bit off-putting, like tapioca. The Cornish halibut, on the other hand, was entirely to my taste, resplendent in an appetising pool of onion and mushroom broth. The Highland venison was meltingly pink, and the liquorice sauce a lovely touch, but here I must add that the vegetarian tasting menu looked equally tempting. It also has to be said that the lunch menu struck me as not only inventive, but really quite reasonable – but perhaps my head was being turned by the dizzying succession of contrasting wines – I had scarcely been introduced to Agathe Bursin when I was forced to abandon her, and make the acquaintance of Eric Morgat. Tiny bits of cheese in a puddle of juicy jam were accompanied by a heavily nostalgic Mosel with an aroma uncannily like my grandmother’s bread-and-butter pudding. I don’t believe I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating any colour of truffle – despite my being a pig in Chinese astrology – but the Black Truffle Menu exerted a strong fascination over me. I was still nosing about in it when dessert arrived – a chocolate hazelnut cremeux with pomegranate and honeycomb, incredibly pretty, and beautifully balancing the rich against the zesty. The French are really awfully good at this sort of thing. All in all, while remaining thoroughly modern, the place feels comfortable, with an old-school gravitas seldom found these days in either banks or restaurants. Les 110 de Taillevent is truly a class act, and should gladden the heart and gratify the senses of anyone with healthy finances and a refined appetite.

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CHUCS HARRODS Door 11, Hans Road Knightsbridge SW1X 7XL WORDS: HARRIET BEDDER Hidden away on Hans Road, beneath Harrods’ Fine Watch Room, is Chucs restaurant, offering respite for shoppers and residents alike. The small space, with seating for just 55 diners, is dissimilar to its other branches in Mayfair, Westbourne Grove, and most recently replaced the Magazine at the Serpentine. Its bijou size makes a welcome contrast to the sprawling labyrinth of the famous department store above (and it is quite nice not getting lost trying to find the bathroom or the bar.) The space itself is elegant and its Mediterranean roots shine through, evident in its deep-blue leather-upholstered stools, Italian marble and butter-soft hide armchairs. Luxury-yacht-style woodpanelled walls make diners feel as if they’re aboard an exclusive vessel, and there’s a steward to reel off the specials and bring drinks over with little intrusion (before heading back to the galley, one assumes). We start with the a simple yet delicious tuna tartare and whitetruffle tagliatelle with artichoke and shaved-parmesan salad. The tagliatelle is creamy but not too heavy; it’s a small portion of the main course and while we don’t feel we’ve missed out on the full plate, it steals the show as antipasti. For the secondi, a classic maccheroni alla Bolognese and a risotto with saffron, red prawns and lemon. The latter feels like it could be a gluttonous mistake, but we decide not to second-guess our order and are delighted with our choices. The Bolognese is as good as anticipated, its rich sauce enhances the fresh spaghetti and the vegetables don’t fight for attention over the meat. The risotto is flavourful and brimming with saffron and refrito – mixed with the seafood. A sharp kick of lemon makes it reminiscent of a Mediterranean paella. We are fit to burst by the end of our main course, but we eat every last mouthful and polish off the bottle of chianti dossio with no remorse, but regrettably we leave no room for dessert. However, we look forward to sampling the tiramisu next time central-London retail therapy overwhelms us. Both the food and service at Chucs are wonderfully understated, and after an indulgent day spent roaming the Egyptian room or Harrods’ new upstairs Food Hall, a dependable dinner with little fussiness is appreciated. Because really, a simple Bolognese and glass of red wine are all you need.

ZHENG CHELSEA 4 Sydney Street, Chelsea, London SW3 6PP WORDS: SID RAGHAVA Before we get to the food, a little snippet of a fascinating tale from ancient China. Born in Kunyang, Yunnan in the late 14th century as a Muslim, Zheng He was one of the world’s greatest explorers and diplomats during the glorious era of the Ming Dynasty. His is a remarkable story of courage, dedication, determination and supreme talent and ability that conquered all. As a 10-year old, after an attack on Kunyang, he was taken prisoner and made a palace eunuch. Inevitably his intelligence, bravery and loyalty shone through. Ironically enough, his 'manhood' was recognised by the emperor and he jumped up the imperial hierarchy to the prestigious position of Chief Envoy of the Royal Fleet. Across seven voyages, Zheng spread China's soft power at the time and exchanged gifts and shared knowledge and technology with native communities in South Asia, Africa and the Middle East and some say as far away as the Americas well before Columbus. During his voyages, he landed on the shores of Malacca and transformed it into an open and diverse community, a melting pot of cultures and religions, which gave way to one of the first instances of fusion food. This in turn is the key strength of Malaysian cuisine aptly reflected in the tourism board's slogan, Truly Asia. An amalgamation of the continent's key cultures encompassing both the behemoths of China and India as well as Malay, South East Asian and other indigenous, ethnic and tribal peoples, plus Arabs, Portuguese, British and other traders and visitors that chanced upon the Strait of Malacca. Malaysian food is a true reflection of its many influences. Zheng on Sydney Street stays true to the legacy of Malaysian cuisine and delivers a powerful punch in an area not known for its South East Asian food. Zheng Chelsea is actually the second restaurant from owners of the highly successful original in Oxford. Husband and wife team Adam Abdullah and Izlinda Baharom’s decision to base their second venture in SW3 is a boon to the Royal Borough. The decor combines exquisite velvet upholstery and dark wood to give a rather warm welcome in the literal sense for those dark nights when the urge to have a spicy Rendang reaches critical levels and overrides the default urge to avoid cold and dank outdoors. Readers of The Review and residents of the Kensington and Chelsea may be familiar with Makan, the all-day Malaysian cafe on Portobello Road. Now imagine the culinary brilliance of Makan being transplanted to a posh and salubrious setting with fitting finesse to round off the upgrade. Start off with a sharing platter of Satay chicken skewer, Sesame Prawn on Toast and Salt and Pepper Squid and you'll know you're on an authentic and flavourful journey, fully reminiscent of woks from Penang to Langkawi. Crispy Aromatic Duck Served with Pancakes and Hoisin Sauce is the perfect example of a Chinese-Malaysian hybrid and classics dominate the menu with Stir-Fried Chicken with Peanuts and Chicken-Thigh Curry with Potato. Proceedings would be incomplete without Beef Rendang of course or a recourse to Chilli Peppercorn King Prawns. Vegetarian options include the timeless Stir-Fried Chinese Green Vegetables with Garlic or Oyster sauce, Stewed Aubergines or Extra Spicy Tofu with Dried Chilli and Roti Canai. The service while you feast is quick and efficient, and cocktails hit the mark consistently with Galangal Sour and East Meets West, a combination of Chapel Down Brut and Plum Wine, being particular favourites. Fans of South East Asian and Malaysian food in Chelsea will point to Awana on Sloane Street which shut down a few years back. It was heartbreak for me because I loved that restaurant. Zheng is a worthy successor to Awana and I couldn't be happier.

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ADVERTORIAL

KENSINGTON AND CHELSEA COLLEGE SHOWCASES ‘JUPITER’ EXHIBITION Fine Art and Photography at Kensington & Chelsea College perfectly binds modern and contemporary themes in an innovative and stimulating way. Led by tutors, students and alumni from Kensington & Chelsea College, the much-anticipated fine art and photography exhibition ’Jupiter’ was shown at the College in December. It displayed a wide variety of artwork consisting of sculptures, paintings and photographs, where every artist was inspired in their own way. Students on fine-art courses are encouraged to be independent and experimental and to open up without boundaries. They’re given opportunities to move forward in life and education, and their tutors are agents to help them to do so. ‘It was wonderful to see this inspirational show of work by our Fine Art and Photography staff.’ said Matthew Kolakowski, Curriculum Manager for Fine Art and Photography. ‘It demonstrates a profound commitment to maintaining their standing as exemplars of professional practice.’ Ali Yanya, one of the tutors and exhibiting artists, showcased three observational paintings at the exhibition. Inspiration for his pieces came from witnessing the practices of ordinary life in order to try and interpret its deeper meaning.

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His piece titled ‘Traders’ takes a scene from a market of a group of men, with one in particular holding a magnifying glass. He interpreted it as the financial market, and the man holding the magnifying glass as a metaphor for people who control the whole process. Another of Ali’s paintings, called ‘White Paper’, was formed from a concept, referring to the power of white paper as it relates to information and technology which can usually be seen on white paper and the power that it has over individuals and society as a whole. Some of the artists also used unique and luxury materials to create their art. Stuart Denyer created his paintings on paper handmade in India and imported from Pakistan after being dried in the sun. After the success of the exhibition, there are plans to run it again until 21 March 2019. The 21 artists showcased at the Jupiter exhibition are Sue Andreae, Jane Eyton, Justin Hibbs, Sara Knowland, Angela Mackay, Greg Rook, Rachel Wilson, Bernadette Yates, Stuart Denyer, Gillian Fielden, Claire Hynds, Matthew Kolakowski, Martin Masterson, Elspeth Ross, Erika Winstone, Manon Droz, Paul Gildea, Rishi Jogoo, Daniela Rizzi, Niki Sianni, Ali Yanya.

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Ali Yanya, Traders PAGE 37


A LITTLE CULTURAL BREAK…

Image:Clémence Randon

The Kensington & Chelsea team met with some talented lyricists from a South London poetry collective affectionately titled PoClu (Poetry Club) a group of young poets who regularly meet and recite work with the aim of improving and inspiring each other. Members include Damian Le Bas, author of The Stopping Places – a Radio 4 book of the week. We invited them to showcase some of their work…

The Weather House by Dominic Walker In two flats in a terraced house south of the river Live a male named Alpha and a female called Omega Both existing alone in the middle of the road They’ve lived together for many years unknown Despite their proximity they’ve never met Rarely have they even ever been both at home When she was out in the world The sun shone bright, birds sang and bees buzzed To the hum as the cool breeze blew by Her sunny smile shone as she greeted everyone Recalling the names of the people on her shop run The grocer, the baker and the shopkeeper’s son In contrast when he was on display, rain Never masking his pain which was plain He grumbled, awkward and self-contained When the world said hello he had no refrain A rain cloud remained on his every parade He walked around the town with a frown Everyone he met up with he’d bring down They were one simple soul divided in two She carried the sun with her, he got soaked through Fate eludes like they lived in different times Where he had the reason and she had the rhyme He worked the night shift, she toiled in the light Stupid cupid still failing to put destiny right Then one afternoon, departing, a parcel arrived A little voice told Alpha to carry it inside Thrice he knocked, a little time went by

After a moment the door opened wide Their hearts stop beating for an atom of time The two briefly die in each other’s eyes Buoyed, they bring each other back to this life Alpha hid a dry humour beneath his strife Using wit, wins over Omega with his sharpness Hoping she’d be a beacon to lead him through his darkness It was immediately apparent, one complemented the other A modest mix of yin and yang perfect for lovers ‘I don’t know what anyone could see in me.’ Like the Japanese seeking beauty in cracked crockery Omega who was in tune with wabi-sabi Whispers: “I guess you’re my type of broken pottery.” Then he smiled and the sun shone through the clouds He’d become so self-centred, he forgot joy was aloud Triggered by a distant memory, she broke down Alpha took his thumb and swiped away a tear ‘So your life isn’t entirely sunshine and cheer?’ She couldn’t explain the strange things love can do He saw the windowsill fill with rain too As her mascara confirmed it was waterproof A patter beat like it would tear through the roof ‘All the time I was crying inside, it was you.’ And she offers him a cup of builder’s brew They weave their weather house into unity Transcend acquaintances and find familiarity Till inevitably a romance begins to bloom

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THE

Beauty EDIT.

EASTER EGG HUNT READY: OUR SPRING BEAUTY GUIDE...

. KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW


THE HOLY GRAIL OF SKINCARE Helena Robinson discovers why Lucia Magnani’s revolutionary products could be the beauty staples you need to see you into the New Year.

December is the booze-filled party-season we wait all year for. January is the month we use to neutralise all the damage caused in the month before. The stark contrast of the two, with half of the population partaking in dry January (or Veganuary) is enough to make anyone want to attempt a detox. But, combined with the ever-changing weather, it’s no wonder that this time of year can wreak havoc with our skin and leave us in need of a little TLC. Here’s the lowdown on the secret weapons I’ve been using to give my previously lacklustre complexion the glow it so desperately craved… So, are you ready for the secret? In mid-December, just as the festive period is getting into full swing, I discovered Lucia Magnani Skincare range’s luxury facial at Harvey Nichols Beauty Rooms. Lucia Magnani Skincare is a new line of antioxidant-rich products that are the result of 20 years of research by an international team of experts in wellbeing and dermatological health. Magnani’s impressive formulas are encased in the most beautiful packaging, too, with tortoiseshell-style lids reminiscent of Tiger Cowrie shells. So each pot and bottle looks and feels luxurious. Gulf-Stream salt is a key ingredient used throughout the range and may have been the influence behind award-winning designer Marc Rossen’s marine-inspired aesthetic. The range incorporates the most innovative of ingredients: quartz crystal is present in the form of micro-particles to energize, regenerate and illuminate the skin. Alpha-lipoic acid – an antioxidant that fights free radicals and reduces oxidative stress – is present, as well as Coenzyme Q10, a compound present in the body which decreases with age. It protects cells from oxidative

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damage and energises skin, helping to repair damage caused by the sun and pollution, the latter of which we aren’t lacking in central London. So, we know that the range boasts an abundance of healing properties beneficial for the skin, but how did it fare when I put it to the test? As the beauty therapist performed the treatment she talked me through each step; in preparation for any facial it’s always good to start with a thorough cleanse (in this case a double-cleanse) to remove any dirt or debris that may have collected throughout the day. For this she used the Purifying Energizing Cleanser 125ml (£75), The next product used was the Retexturing Radiance Mask 150ml (£195); I’ll be honest, this did sting for around two minutes while it worked it’s magic, and for a moment I was a little concerned, but rest assured, the tingling – or rather, mild burning – did subside quickly and was then soothed with the Refreshing Energizing Tonic 150ml (£90). Despite my initial doubts, my skin was left smooth, soft and nourished. I followed this treatment by trialling both the Rejuvenating Eye Cream 15ml (£130) and the Daily Firming Hydrator 50ml (£195) a lightweight, almost gel-like base with a light scent that feels cooling and calming when applied. I can safely say that I’ve been converted: less than one week in, my partner commented on how incredibly soft my skin was and that my blemishes and acne had drastically improved – and this was said without being provoked (highly unusual). To add to this, a colleague told me, ‘Your skin looks like real-life photoshop’ – now, I would call that a success… Lucia Magnani treatments and products are now available at Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge. www.harveynichols.com

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GONE TO POT

‘It’s always telling when every staff member you quiz has worked at this very salon for a number of years.’

RIGHT HAIR RIGHT NOW

Don’t be fooled by the deceptively unassuming entrance to Paul Edmonds Hair & Beauty Salon in Kensington: inside this Georgian-style townhouse lies a maze of treatment rooms, each one unique in fashion and feel, yet styled for an altogether seamless, manicured look. This seamlessness applies to the entire Paul Edmonds experience, which involves an army of staff working in perfect synchronicity; I’m scarcely aware that I’ve handed over my coat before I’m ensconced in a chair with a fresh juice. Having previously been for a consultation and patch test with the salon’s Taylor Spicer (winner of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2018 Rising Star Award), she reiterates our plans, mixes up my balayage colour and is soon expertly applying it. Beside me, a woman is having her hair styled and toes pedicured, while eating a delicious-looking salad and firing off a rapid succession of emails, courtesy of the salon’s excellent WiFi: who doesn’t love an efficient approach to beauty? That said, you’d be forgiven for wanting to extend your time here, so welcoming is the atmosphere. From the antique10 reception area, inspired armchairsPAGE in the to the cocoon-like sanctuaries of the treatment rooms, there’s a home-fromhome feeling that’s really rather beguiling.

This extends, as well, to the unfailingly warm staff, who so obviously love what they do; in a high-turnover industry, it’s always telling when every staff member you quiz has worked at this very salon for a number of years. Although Paul Edmonds is well known as a celebrity hairdresser and Official Hair Partner of the BAFTAs, there’s a range of treatments beyond hair styling which make the salon a complete beauty destination, with aesthetics, facials, peels, semipermanent make-up, lash extensions, manicures, waxing and threading all available. The nail bar, especially, is a treat, with plump velvet armchairs in which to nestle, and flatscreen TVs to watch if you’re not feeling chatty. The end results are perfect: any hint of the brassiness that my hair had acquired after a few weeks in the sun is now banished, thanks to a warm medley of melting toffee and caramel hues, plus Taylor’s insistence on a deep-nourishing treatment. I can’t help but hug her before I swoosh my way out on to Brompton Road.

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Paul Edmonds, 217 Brompton Road, SW3 2EJ; there is also a new salon at Battersea Power Station. pauledmonds.com


“A CLIENT-LED APPROACH PUTS PEOPLE IN CONTROL OF THEIR OWN AESTHETIC JOURNEY IN A WAY THAT BUILDS CONFIDENCE”

PURE & SIMPLE SARAH RODRIGUES dodges the crowds of school groups and buggy-pushers making their way to the Natural History Museum and dives into the soothing white spaces of the Santi Clinic, just a few steps from South Kensington station. Assailed by conflicting beauty advice from all sides, many of us could be forgiven for being confused about what we, our skin and our bodies, actually need. Ten years ago, dismayed by the amount of inaccurate information those seeking aesthetic treatments were exposed to, Tariq Karim set up Santi London, with the aim of helping clients to navigate their way through the nonsense. Santi means ‘pure’ in Sanskrit, and is linked with words related to ‘health’ in Latinate languages - and the name mirrors much about the clinic’s ethos. A client-led approach - one where they are asked what their concerns are, rather than told what they need - puts people in control of their own aesthetic journey in a way that builds confidence, not only in terms of a relationship with the therapist, but also in oneself. “People don’t always need as much treatment as they fear they do,” explains Karim. “Sometimes all anyone needs is proper rest, or a massage -

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or a space in which they can find calm and feel better. Something that makes you feel good about yourself, whether that’s a facial, a manicure or a yoga session - there’s not always a need for aesthetic medicine.” With this philosophy, Santi London is also careful to ensure that treatments are age-appropriate, carefully steering younger clients away from early aesthetic intervention. In keeping with these principles, the clinic also offers a range of natural skincare option, harnessing the power of plants to enhance health and wellbeing. Guidance is also available to clients so that they can maximise the benefits of their treatments at home, with attention to diet, hydration and lifestyle all available from a team of on-site doctors and dieticians taking factors such as hormones and metabolic conditions into account for a completely bespoke approach. The only thing missing from the Santi experience is a bubble to wrap oneself before emerging: after such a personalised and solicitous experience, the traffic and noise of London will never have seemed so jarring and cruel. Santi London 33 Thurloe Street London, SW7 2LQ PAGE 56


1.

SPRING BEAUTY EDIT Beauty Editor LISA CURTISS shares her selection of the perfect perfumes, creams and gadgets for the season.

2.

1. SPRING CLEAN YOUR SKIN Loved by those in-the-know, this new PMD Clean FacialCleansing gadget uses over 7,000 vibrations a minute to deeply remove skin impurities by gently breaking down the dirt and oil from within the pores. Four different settings allow you to choose the right intensity for your skin type. This handy beauty device is coated with an ultra-hygienic silicone, which is anti-bacterial, hypoallergenic, waterproof and incredibly easy to clean, and it’s conveniently battery-operated too. £89 from Harrods (www.harrods.com)

4.

2. MADAME GOUTAL: PERFUMED HANDCARE With its beautiful fragrance and heavenly silky feel, this new range of hand cream is a delight to use. It’s quickly absorbed yet with lasting effect and leaves even the driest of skin soft and supple. Harvey Nichol’s Exclusive. Hand Cream, 40ml, £25.

3.

3. COWSHED UDDERLY GORGEOUS BATH SALTS Wonderful bath salts with light, floral fragrance. The combination of sea salt and Himalayan crystal salts and sea buckthorn oil pampers, protects and nourishes the skin. It’s free from parabens and sulphates and it’s suitable for vegetarians. Udderly Gorgeous Bath Salts, 250ml, £24 (picture credit: Soho House Retail) 4. NATIONAL TRUST ROSEMARY LEAF AND ORANGE HAND CREAM Beautifully perfumed, silky and quickly absorbed, this delightful hand cream softens and protects parched, rough winter-dry skin. Hand Cream, 75ml, £9 (picture credit National Trust)

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SCENTS FOR SPRING From meadow-fresh florals, to sweet and seductive musks – here are our favourite fragrances for the season.

GOUTAL: BOIS D’HADRIEN Tuscan citrus and warm pine-wood, this vibrant fragrance transports you to an Italian garden overlooking a sparkling sea. It’s distinctive, feminine and perfect for spring. Eau de parfum, 100ml, £132

MORESQUE: SOLE Perfect for those balmy spring evenings, this luxurious, extra special fragrance has hints of ripe peach, patchouli and seductive ylang-ylang. Eau de parfum, 50ml, £290

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GOYA: BLACK ROSE Created by Goya's founder, Douglas Collins, Black Rose is a deeply romantic floral fragrance, heady with the intense essence of a velvet black rose, with additional notes of bergamot, jasmine and geranium. Eau de parfum, 100ml, £49.99 BY TERRY: BE MINE With essences of raspberry, Madagascan black pepper and damask rose petals, Be Mine is effortlessly feminine, flirty and lingers long into a spring night. Available UK-wide, 100ml, £180.

MADEMOISELLE ROCHAS: COUTURE This scent artfully couples sharp masculine sandalwood with zingy cranberry fruit, softened with traditional bridal-bouquet orange blossom, this fragrance is perfect for those who like their perfume to be distinctive, fresh and vibrant. Available UK-wide, 90ml, £75. ELIZABETH & JAMES: NIRVANA WHITE Utterly feminine, soft and long lasting, this pretty perfume features notes of peony, lily of the valley and musk. Eau de parfum, 50ml, £69

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ELIXIR YOUTH

OF

Can you really drink your way to younger looking skin? SARAH RODRIGUES trialled beauty drink Skinade to find out.

‘Users have also reported healthier, stronger hair and nails, not to mention a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.’ A healthy diet, water, rest and SPF: we all know that skin suffers in the absence of these, but the other magic ingredient for a youthful complexion is, quite simply, youth - and, unlike salmon and avocado, this one is a little harder to come by. The plump, moist skin of youth is the handiwork of the protein collagen, which we lose the ability to produce as we get older, breaking it down more rapidly than we can replace it. Once this starts, the skin gradually loses its dewiness, with fine lines, wrinkles and dryness taking its place. Collagen-containing creams and serums claim to alleviate the effects of this depletion, but since these only work on the top layer of the skin, any improvements seen are due to increased hydration; after all, collagen loss happens in the inner, dermal layer. Injectables don’t have this limitation, but are dogged by the risk of unsightly bruising, as well as the simple realities of cost and upkeep - not to mention squeamishness around needles. There are issues around ingestion too, such as the efficacy of collagen capsules being compromised by passage through the digestive system. That’s a tick in the box of liquid collagen, which is more readily assimilated - but even then, another obstacle is that collagen molecules are simply too large to be absorbed by the bloodstream, no matter what form they come in. Daily beauty drink Skinade, however, contains 7000 mg of hydrolysed collagen. In basic terms, this means that the collagen molecules have been broken down into peptides with a low molecular weight, which make for readier absorption. Added to this, the presence of these fragmented molecules is thought to trick the body into believing that collagen destruction has taken place, thus triggering the repair mechanisms to produce more collagen, as well as more elastin and hyaluronic acid, which is necessary for hydration.

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With all of this going on under the surface, what visible results can be expected from adding Skinade to one’s daily beauty regime? The boost it gives to hydration has shown impressive results on eczema and psoriasis sufferers; users have also reported healthier, stronger hair and nails, not to mention a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Testimonials aside, I went to Kensington’s Santi clinic to for a series of before and after tests - after all, it’s one thing for me to peer in the mirror; quite another to have a professional insight. It was explained to me that my lifestyle and skincare regime would have to be consistent over the two month trial period for the results to be measured clearly; during this time, however, I spent a week in the dry desert warmth of Arizona and another two weeks in a scorching hot Sydney summer. Even so, when I went back for my second set of measurements, hydration was up by 18% and collagen by 17%, with elasticity having improved by a whopping 67% - pretty impressive for skin in its forties. Collagen is shown in the scans by the presence of yellow; the increase in mass is obvious even to my untrained eye. Skinade tastes quite pleasant - it’s faintly sweet and fruity but with results like that, I’d be continuing to drink it daily even if it made me gag. Developed by UK scientists and manufactured in Britain, Skinade is currently available in 1,000 stockists nationwide as well as on www.skinade.com. Sold in courses of 30 (£105), 60 (£210) and 90 (£315) days, it is also available in a 15ml travel sachet, which you simply dilute in water. My skin measurements were taken at Santi London, 33 Thurloe St, SW7 2LQ, Kensington www.santilondon.com

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“DR REENA EXPLAINS TO ME HOW TO BRUSH MY TEETH – A STRANGE EXPERIENCE AFTER HAVING DONE SO TWICE A DAY FOR THE PAST 26 YEARS – THOUGH I DISCOVER I HAVE BEEN DOING IT WRONG ALL THIS TIME.”

SHOW US YOUR TEETH HARRIET BEDDER talks to Reena Wadia and discovers that a healthy mouth isn’t just about having pearly whites... Discover how taking care of your gum and bone health can play a vital role in keeping your long-term oral health in check.

Tucked away in an imposing Edwardian, baroque-style building on Wimpole Street, in the heart of the private dentistry, medical and cosmetic surgery district of Marylebone, is the office of Dr Reena Wadia. RW Perio is founded and powered by the UK’s leading gum specialist and winner of the ‘Dentistry Top 50’ award Dr Reena Wadia; a periodontist passionate about spreading the word of better gum health and the prevention and treatment of gum disease. We meet in the early evening and Reena animatedly introduces herself before explaining the structure of the appointment: assess, advise, treat. Reena and I discuss my current tooth and gum concerns and establish that I suffer a history of hereditary gum disease in my family. I explain, as an ex-smoker that has a predisposition to gingivitis, my gum health is always at the forefront of my mind. Reena agrees that quitting smoking was an excellent decision (the bone in fact, could begin to deteriorate with the gum in patients) and that my oral health would have seen a vast improvement from my lifestyle change, which it has. If gum or periodontal disease runs in the family, it is wise to be extra vigilant. At this point I also explain I am undergoing private Invisalign treatment – a popular cosmetic procedure realigning the teeth using invisible plastic trays over the course of 9–12 months. This is to correct one turned and two under-achieving bi-lateral incisors, so it is safe to say I am very conscious of not only the health of my mouth, but its appearance. Since starting the treatment, I have noticed an increased soreness in my gums and the odd bleed due to the gaps tightening between my teeth. Before advising, Reena assesses my oral health and begins a thorough examination. She provides a quick hygienist service, cleaning the teeth while assessing the in-between, before stopping to explain her findings. She agrees there is a little build up, which is caused by the length of time I keep my Invisalign trays in during the day (and night) and proceeds to give her advice. She explains the best coloured/sized TePe, or inter-dental brush, to use to clean between my teeth, the best way to reach behind my wisdom teeth to stop the bleeding gums altogether. She explains to me how to brush my teeth – a strange experience after having done so twice a day for the past 26 years – though I discover I have been doing it wrong all this time. I feel deceived and enlightened simultaneously. She reveals the teeth have to be brushed along the gum line at a 45-degree angle with an electric toothbrush. This should make up 90% of brushing, with the actual tooth surface taking only 10% of the advised efforts. She also shows me how a dedicated tongue-brush is beneficial for good oral hygiene and is significant to battling bad breath. Feeling like I now hold the key to the future of my oral hygiene, Reena begins her treatment stage. Reena’s signature treatment is the advanced Airflow polishing treatment. It aims to remove stains that traditional scaling and polishing may not remove. This system uses a combination of flavoured fine powder particles, compressed air and water. Despite my initial concerns of feeling sensitivity – another condition to add to my list – the treatment is pain-free and I experience no discomfort during the process. I leave Dr Wadia’s office feeling like my teeth have never been cleaner, and that the last thing I want to do is either a) eat dinner or b) put my Invisalign trays back in. But I am confident that not only has Reena cleaned and polished, she has passed on wisdom that may help other members of my family too.

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Consultation and treatments with Reena Wadia cost from £150 and take around 45 minutes. www.rwperio.com

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C E L E B R AT I N G V I N TA G E V I TA L I T Y

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ADVERTORIAL

THE ULTIMATE SUMMER CELEBRATION London’s first event of the summer season returns to Hurlingham Park, Fulham to host its 10th birthday. Kicking off the change in seasons with an ultimate three-day summer celebration, Chestertons Polo in the Park takes over the capital’s social calendar from 7–9 June 2019. One of the biggest social sporting events of the summer, Chestertons Polo in the Park is one of the largest and most popular tournaments in Europe combining world-class sport set in sunny champagne gardens with fantastic food and music. The three-day sporting spectacle has firmly established itself as one of the most anticipated and sought-after events in South West London. Perfect for polo fanatics and social enthusiasts in equal measure, the rules have been uniquely simplified so that newcomers will be able to follow the fast and furious polo without needing any prior knowledge of the game. International Day, Friday 7 June, is set to be an actionpacked opening day featuring the Flannels England Polo Team as they take to the hallowed turf against a rival country in a thrilling international match to kickstart the tournament. Ladies Day presented by Lancaster, Saturday 8 June, provides the perfect excuse to dress up and enjoy a day out with your closest friends, watching quality sporting action while sipping champagne in the sun. Finals Family Funday, Sunday 9 June, rounds off the weekend with a world-class finale match to crown the tournament champions. A day for all the family where parents can watch on from London’s best cocktail bars or Champagne Lanson garden while the children are entertained at the Little Hooves Kids Club and stampede onto the Sharky & George Pitch Invasion. Over the course of three days, teams representing six different cities from around the world will be taking part in the hotly contested polo tournament. Off the pitch there’s plenty to see and do all weekend with the Grazing Paddock hosting top restaurants and delicious street food, the Champagne Lanson Garden returns alongside the iconic Mahiki pineapples, Slingsby Cocktail Bar and Fever-Tree Garden. Splash out in the Luxury Shopping Village housing, and on Sunday bring the whole family to enjoy our Little Hooves Kids Club and Sharky & George Pitch Invasion. For more information and to book tickets www.polointheparklondon.com PAGE 63

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VIRTUO

HARRIET BEDDER tries out the short-term premium rental company taking London by storm

Virtuo is a start-up that has taken the car-rental industry by storm since launching in July 2018. The company’s USP is that its fleet is comprised solely of Mercedes-Benz vehicles, and the service has 35,000 users of the service in London and 250,000 across the UK to date. We had the opportunity to take the brand new 2019 A-class – an addition that’s swelled the Virtuo fleet by more than 100 cars in the UK – for a spin over the festive weekend. The MercedesBenz offers an unparalleled experience of seamlessness and functionality, built with a sleek and elegant design. And the Virtuo app interface mirrored this quality engineering in its ease of booking. Myself and my driving buddy were both able to book, locate and unlock the Mercedes through the Virtuo app, allowing us to have shared use of the vehicle, each with our own key. On the way to the rental, we were too nervous to use either of our phones in case the battery somehow deteriorated at the speed of, well, an iPhone, and we wouldn’t be able to unlock the car. However, once we managed to unlock it, which took seconds, we were relieved to find a charger inside. On first sight, we fell in love with our new A-class and its stateof-the-art 10-inch, LED, touchscreen infotainment system, built around comprehensive COMAND system software (something we had learnt after the car responded to us saying ‘Mercedes’ while driving through Battersea). But before we nervously – and excitedly – drove our brand new (only 900 miles on the clock) Mercedes out of London Victoria’s NCP car park and into the familiar streets of Belgravia, we had to complete a full auto check. This ensures that any damage is found and documented before you drive away, so that there are no unexpected surprises later. Luckily, we found no issues, and our adventure began. We exited the car park to a cacophony of beeping from the ‘Bird Box’-esque sensor system, which flashed to ensure we didn’t knock any part of the A-class chassis on the way out. It’s no wonder Virtuo’s rentals have clocked up a 93 per cent satisfaction rate.

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We first drove back home to load our luggage into the spacious boot, ready for our drive to the countryside. One of our neighbours admired the car as I was loading it, as did many onlookers over the weekend (the new shape is a head-turner that differs from the older A-class). I became accustomed to the attention and ever more attached to the car. At that point, the car felt like mine – the only reminder of it being a rental was ‘VIRTUO’ written in small silver letters at the rear of the car. A far more subtle and discreet design touch than the likes of a Zipcar, whose garish multicoloured lettering snakes down the wing of its body. On the motorway we cheekily maxed out the speed limit in around 4.7 seconds – the drive was so smooth it was hard to stay within it. But the average speed check (the newest bane of both commuters and those cruising through the countryside) put a stop to any recklessness. We arrived in Hindhead wishing we had a longer distance to cover, but thrilled by the admiration our ride attracts over the weekend celebrations. At this point, it felt like the best Christmas present we could have asked for, and I knew I’d find it hard to say goodbye. We only needed to use the IM service on the app once, to contact our customer service agent, ‘Adam’. We tried to locate the fuel-release cap and couldn’t find the button. So, we pinged Adam a message and carried on searching. Moments later Adam had reassured us that the cap and car unlock simultaneously, so we needn’t have worried. We spent three days in a blissful state, thinking of random places we could drive to (IKEA on Boxing Day, anyone?) But, we still weren’t ready to let the A-class go. Despite the sadness we felt on dropping the rental back at Victoria we were already looking forward the trip home at Easter with our Virtuo. Virtuo is bookable from five central locations across London (Victoria, Waterloo, King’s Cross St Pancras, Marble Arch and Kensington) and is soon to be available at two new sites (Stratford and Shepherd’s Bush) in order to meet the huge demand for the service.

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Topping the super popular XE range, the 300 Sport really showcases Jaguar’s matchless skill at marrying speed, comfort, space, refinement and handsome good looks. Tested over a week of deep snow, treacherous ice and recordbreaking low temperatures, the 300 Sport’s all-wheel drive, coupled with JaguarDrive Control’s snow and ice mode, revealed the Sport as far more than a fast and fancy eye-catcher. These features enabled safe and sure-footed journeys home, when pretty much all but Land Rovers skated and became stuck overnight when roads became so dangerous they were forced to close. The Cold Climate Pack option fitted to our car meant that the washer jets, windscreen, front seats and steering wheel were heated – a much appreciated feature. Back on clear tarmac, the Sport’s 2.0 litre, 300ps turbocharged petrol engine – which delivers 400Nm of torque – coupled with a slick 8-speed auto box enables a rapid 5.4 second 0-to-62 sprint. MPG-wise: 38.2 combined with an emission figure of 171 g/km. The power delivery was seamless, and deceptively fast. The headup MPH and speed-limit display option was certainly handy. The just-right ride gives driver feel without compromising on passenger comfort, and the handling in general is precise and engaging. Jaguar is rightly praised for the quality, standard equipment and design of the interiors of all their models. The XE Sport is no exception. Beautifully appointed, perfectly crafted, from the silk-soft leathers to feature stitching and switchgear, the attention to detail and provision of luxury is clear. The as-standard spec list for enter-and info-tainment, safety, comfort and dynamics is pleasingly long, and the raft of possible options is either at no cost or reasonably priced. Distinguishing 300 Sport features include: Bi-function Xenon headlights with LED ‘J’ blade Daytime Running Lights, automatic levelling and headlight power wash; Dark Satin Grey side window surround and side vents; Gloss Black grille with Dark Satin Grey surround; Perforated Grained Leather Seats with Yellow contrast stitching; 300 Sport branded Soft Grain leather steering wheel; Ebony Headlining; Meshed Aluminium trim finisher; Metal treadplates with 300 SPORT branding; Interior mood lighting; Meridian Sound System (380W) and Front Parking Aid. Our model came in stunning Santorini Black. An absolute pleasure to drive, and no doubt own, the XE 300 Sport is an excellent all-rounder, with ample kerb appeal, and class-leading quality and performance. www.jaguar.co.uk

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IMAGES: LUKE PENNEY

JAGUAR XE 300 SPORT

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW


RANGE ROVER SPORT PHEV Mighty and majestic, this most desirable model from the Land Rover stable is as classy as it is capable – the kind of machine that could grace a Chelsea mews or country manor driveway. The gorgeous, range-topping Autobiography on test came in Carpathian grey with an ebony/ivory interior, Morzine headlining, and 21.5” split-spoke alloys with a silver finish. Exceptional quality materials and finishes throughout are just two of the factors that really set this impressive model above the competition. It’s a vehicle of substance, with speed and eco-cred too. The Si4 PHEV P400e engine/ 85 KW electric power motor delivers a hefty 640/275Nms of torque, which – coupled with its eight-speed transmission – enables a 0-to-62mph sprint of just 6.3 seconds. Out on the road, the power is evident, just the lightest of touches to the accelerator propels the Sport past any obstacle with effortless ease. The driving experience is enjoyable. Given the height, size and weight of the vehicle, the handling and responsiveness are remarkably good. The command position and acres of glass give excellent 360 visibility, perfect for confidently navigating tricky off-road terrains. For the vertically challenged, getting in and out can be a bit of a leg reach though, but that’s about the only tiny niggle we can find. For passengers, the Range Rover Sport’s comfort, visibility, space and airiness is unbeatable. Butter-soft yet supportive seats; ample shoulder, head and leg room; minimal road, wind and engine noise; and plentiful entertainment equipment means even the longest-distance hikes are a pleasure. This is first-class travel with bells and bows on. The Autobiography model on test has probably the longest list of equipment and features of any vehicle. From a heated windscreen, panoramic roof, Matrix LED headlights, 22-way heated and cooled memory front seats, Meridian surroundsound system, drive and park packs, to a rear-view camera, configurable ambient cabin lighting and auto-dimming power fold heated mirrors, everything you could dream of, functionality-wise, is there. As capable as it is comfortable, this Range Rover Sport is no slouch when taken off tarmac. More features such as gradient acceleration and release plus hill descent and low traction controls are included and a wade sensor is offered at a small extra cost. Whether climbing mountain passes, traversing over ice, mud, ruts and rocks, or slick wet grass, little is impossible. With a decent wading depth of 850mm, crossing many steams, estuaries, fords, floods and rivers is achievable with care. The Range Rover Sport PHEV is simply one hell of a car. One even the most dedicated car snob would be proud to own. www.landrover.co.uk

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

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VOLVO NEW V60 CROSS COUNTRY Perfectly practical and great to drive, Volvo’s new V60 has set the standards for cars in this class. With added all-road capability, including a round clearance increase, permanent all-wheel drive as standard, and an offroad driving mode, trips out of the city to the country house even in inclement conditions are a breeze. On test, golf clubs, cases and even a spare saddle left the boot with space to spare, and ferrying family members around for hours proved comfortable for all. Its 190hp D4 engine delivering a hefty max torque of 400Nm from just 1,750rpm is coupled with a silk-smooth eight-speed auto transmission to manage a respectable 55.4mpg. It’s frugal yet engaging to drive too. This Cross Country maintains the V60’s cool, contemporary Scandinavian styling, but expresses its special character with the addition of robust bodywork protection elements. Finished in charcoal grey, these include wheel-arch extensions, lowersill mouldings and a rear bumper embossed with the Cross Country logo. With the lower grille adopting the same finish, extra visual ruggedness is added right around the lower part of the car, referencing its ability to tackle more challenging conditions. It also gets five-spoke 18-inch alloy wheels. Slip inside to discover acres of useable space – 529 litres with the rear seats up, rising to 1,441 litres with the seats down, along with underfloor storage and cargo hooks on both sides of the boot. The handy 60/40 seat configuration enables a host of long and awkward-shaped items to be stowed with

ease too. The interior is Zen-like and uncluttered. Controls are clear and ergonomically placed. A refreshingly generous spec includes Volvo’s acclaimed Sensus multimedia system, enabling quick and easy control of a wide range of vehicle functions, also sat-nav, entertainment and information systems through a central nine-inch touchscreen. Volvo On Call is also provided, giving access to a range of services via a dedicated smartphone app (such as the ability to heat or cool the car’s cabin, or lock and unlock the doors remotely), as well as instant connection to emergency services in the event of a collision. The raft of safety and performance features doesn’t stop there…other highlights include: Hill-Descent Control and an Off-Road Drive Mode setting; front and rear parking sensors; automatic LED headlights with Active High Beam; a powered tailgate and Hill-Start Assist. Not forgetting City Safety, plus Oncoming Collision Mitigation – a world-first safety technology that detects vehicles travelling towards you and applies the brakes automatically to limit the severity of any potential impact. A capable, attractive and supremely practical car which firmly proves estates can be cool too. Volvo demonstrating once again it designs and produces great cars people buy with their hearts, not just because they need them.

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www.volvocars.com/uk/cars/new-models/v60

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW


A TALE OF TWO CUPRAS SEAT is rapidly rising in the car ranks for producing models increasingly acclaimed for their looks, practicality and performance.  Motoring Editor LISA CURTISS was delighted to test not just the Leon ST Cupra Carbon Edition, but the stunning 5dr Cupra R too – both special limited-editions.

CUPRA CARBON EDITION With less than 50 released in the UK, the exclusive 300PS Cupra Carbon Edition proved a delightful surprise. Attractively stylish without being flashy, it’s an eye-pleasing driveway asset, hiding a 2.0 TSI 300PS engine with DSG-auto 4Drive enabling a blistering 4.9 second 0-to-62mph – firmly trouncing the hottest hatches and more than a few six-figure supercars in the sprint stakes. This is aided by its all-wheel drive giving excellent traction as we found racing on even skid-slick rain-soaked ‘B’ roads. The styling cues to this thrilling performance are carbonfibre side blades and front and rear diffusers, high-performance Brembo brakes, 19-inch black alloy wheels and Cupra bucket seats, plus large quad rear exhausts with the Cupra logo. Practical too – it turns in a respectable 39mpg combined, has bags of room, and is a comfortable family ferry as well as thrilling true driver’s car. A firm favourite.

KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW

CUPRA R Following the excellent Carbon Edition came the pretty and powerful Leon Cupra R. All 24 UK examples were sold as soon as launched, and on test it was easy to see why. Aesthetically blessed, with exciting go-kart-esque handling, with powerful performance, this car most definitely delivers. Equipped with 310 hp output, its SEAT’s most powerful production model and features outstanding agility, dynamism and safety. With a 5.7 second 0-to-62, it has a fraction of the sprint pace of its sibling Carbon Edition, but its race-honed handling and kart-feel more than compensates for this. It has modified camber angles on the front axle, four-piston Brembo brake callipers and a retuned sports exhaust system, plus a rear spoiler providing 20kg of downforce for even grippier handling. Do select the new Cupra mode from the SEAT Drive Profile to enhance the driving experience even further. Playing with it on tight and twisty ‘B’ roads proved excellent fun. And proved it was sure-footed even when pushed hard in and out of bends, thanks to its VAQ self-locking differential, which transmits 100 per cent of available torque to a single wheel. There’s ample feel, and precise, stiff steering, yet this Cupra R can be tamed for general family and daily use too. Beautifully eye-catching, the model on test came in ‘Matt Pyrenees Grey’, finished with stunning and unusual copper detailing on its door mirrors, steering wheel, mirrors and front grille – 19-inch black-alloy wheels, extended wheel arches and a more powerful design around the air intakes complete the effect. Slide inside to discover more Cupra R touches, including a laser limited-edition and model number engraved inscription on the centre console, spoiler, lower lip spoiler, side skirts and rear diffuser. Plus, the copper hue is carried through to the detailing on the dashboard, centre console, door-panel stitching and Cupra steering-wheel logo. Rounding off the sport-oriented look and feel is Alcantara for the gearstick, steering wheel and front bucket seats with copper stitching. Great fun, gorgeous looks. One on our to-keep wish-list for sure. www.seat.co.uk

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