VOLUME FIVE| ISSUE T WO | FREE
The Summer Issue Flowers, fillies and long-haul flights: ‘tis the season…
PHOTO COURTESY OF ANDREW COLES
Welcome to the latest issue of Kensington and Chelsea Review. Filled with art, auction, culture and luxury, Kensington and Chelsea Review is the magazine for the rather discerning resident of the Royal Borough.
KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
JUNE OPEN EVENTS
Editors’ Letter
Secure your college place to start in Sept 2019!
As I write this, the Chelsea Flower Show is in full swing and the Royal Borough is blooming, quite literally. For us, it’s the start of summer, and once again we’re picking an outrageous Ascot hat (and seeing the meet’s saucier side at the London Cabaret Club), hitting the cocktail terraces (we were very taken with the one at our old London haunt, The Sanderson’s Long Bar), taking some time to beautify (and giving the dramatic Vampire Facial a go), and of course, heading off on our summer hols…
PUBLISHER Talismanic Media FOUNDER AND MANAGING DIRECTOR Sid Raghava CHIEF EDITOR Kate Weir
Sat 8 & Thu 27 June 2019 Sat: 10am-2pm | Thu: 5-7pm | Chelsea Centre SW10 0QS
Mon 24 June 2019 Mon: 5-7pm | Kensington Centre W10 5QQ
Find out more and pre-register at
www.kcc.ac.uk/openevents ACADEMY 1 SPORTS | ACCESS | ACCOUNTING | ARCHITECTURE & INTERIOR DESIGN | CERAMICS CHILDCARE | GLASS | GRAPHICS & MULTIMEDIA | ESOL | FASHION | FINE ART HEALTH & SOCIAL CARE | JEWELLERY | MILLINERY | MUSIC | PHOTOGRAPHY
ART DIRECTOR Harriet Bedder MOTORING EDITOR Lisa Cur tiss OFFICE MANAGER Lee Marrero SALES MANAGER Joseph McConville CONTRIBUTORS Kate Weir, Sid Raghava, Harriet Bedder, Sarah Rodrigues, James Massoud, Adam Jacot de Boinod, Lisa Curtiss, Sue Saunders, Melanie Nordman, Madévi Dailly, Andrew Coles, Joy Hui Lin. All material in Kensington and Chelsea Review is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system without prior permission of the publishers. Colour transparencies and photographs submitted for publication are sent at the owners’ risk and while every care is taken, neither the publisher nor their agents accept liability for loss or damage however caused. The publishers can accept no liability whatsoeverof nature arising out of nor in connection with the contents of this publication. Opinions expressed within the articles are not necessarily those of Kensington and Chelsea Review and any issues arising therefore should be taken up directly with the contributor.
Where have we been? Oh, St Lucia, Lisbon, Madeira…We’ve sipped fine American wines in Berkshire, had fun on the farm in France’s new weekend-break spot and tried our luck at pearl-diving in Bahrain (and sadly came away empty-handed). We daydreamed about a wedding on Florida’s secret island paradise and slowed down for a restful spa weekend in Bath. Plus, we’re bringing you all that’s new in Kensington and Chelsea and where to hang out in the sun. Have a wonderful summer!
THE KENSINGTON & CHELSEA TEAM
Contents 4.
News
10.
What’s on?
24.
Travel
45.
Shopping
53.
Eat
64.
Beauty
64.
Drive
Explore the latest openings, exhibitions and events from the borough and beyond. Spending some time with the Borough’s makers and creators.
From Brit breaks to epic exotic adventures: where to spend your summer holidays. What to whip out the wallet for this season.
Dior-themed teas, truffle pizzas, Indian fine diners for those in-the-know and the return of an old favourite… Your summer beauty round-up. The sleekest rides to be seen in this summer.
KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
READ ALL ABOUT IT A rundown of news, from the worlds of art and culture (plus the items that intrigue us), all handpicked for the Royal Borough resident.
Cape Coast Fishing Beach, Langlands & Bell, The Past is Never Dead..., 17 October–3 December 2019, Gallery 1957, Accra, gallery1957.com
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CONTEMPORARY CERAMICS, the specialist gallery in central London, are working on two shows – Sentience by Carolyn Genders and Poise & Parallax by Lara Scobie – in addition to organising events such as Ceramic Art London. Carolyn creates bold, asymmetric sculptural vessels, hand built in white earthenware with painted abstracted surfaces, and Edinburgh maker Lara makes slip-cast vessels with clean lines and graphic patterns. www.cpaceramics.com
CHELSEA REAL-ESTATE AGENTS Chatterton Rees support the Daisy Trust who raise money for local charities in Hammersmith and Fulham to fight poverty and contribute to community development. In 2018 the Daisy Trust gave £55,391 to 42 organisations; since 2010 they’ve given over £340,000 to 119 organisations in our neighbouring Borough. This year, BBC presenter Sophie Raworth was a guest speaker at their Masked Ball on the 10 of May. www.daisytrust.org
THE SIXTH EDITION OF MAYFAIR ART Weekend will run from 28–30 June, where creatives celebrate this historic cultural district. Designed to showcase the residents’ cultural capability, galleries including Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac, David Zwirner and Victoria Miro, will host exhibitions of contemporary art, sculpture and live performance, with talks and tours. Bond Street boutiques will be decorated, and high-end galleries, fashion houses, hotels and restaurants will join in too. www.mayfairartweekend.com
THE JIMMY BEAUMONT PERFUME COLLECTION, in association with London Craft Week, was a glorious celebration of the craft of perfume-making. The exhibition aimed to remind visitors that perfumery is alive and well in Britain and – surprisingly – still a lucrative and interesting industry with a panoply of industry greats (Floris, Penhaligon’s, the Experimental Perfume Club) invited to summon up a scent for characters in the Beaumont’s gallery of rebels and reprobates from the golden age of stage and screen. www.thebeaumont.com/news/the-jimmybeaumont-perfume-collection
OPEN SQUARES Tickets are now on sale for this year’s Open Garden Squares Weekend 2019 – London’s most popular garden-visiting weekend. The annual event allows members of the public exclusive access to some of the capital’s most exciting, private and unique green spaces, including the garden at Number 10 Downing Street… www.opensquares.org
Père Tanguy (1887–88, oil on canvas), Vincent Van Gogh, Musée Rodin
Photo: Mark Brenner
Photo: Lincoln Seligman
GALLERY 1957 This October, Gallery 1957 in Accra will present a solo exhibition by artist duo Langlands & Bell. Titled, ‘The Past is Never Dead…’, the exhibition explores the architecture of the ‘Slave Forts’ built on the coast of Ghana by European traders and adventurers following the construction of Elmina C. www.gallery1957.com
VAN GOGH & JAPAN, the latest release from Exhibition on Screen will be showing in over 25 cinemas in London from 4 June 2019. The film reveals the career-defining impact Japan had on Van Gogh, despite him never travelling there himself. The film travels not only to France and the Netherlands but also to Japan to further explore the remarkable heritage that so affected Van Gogh and made him the artist we know of today. www.exhibitiononscreen.com/films/vangogh-japan
FULHAM BEACH This year’s highly anticipated summer opening, Fulham Beach, opened on Thursday 2 May on the riverside of South West London as a brand new jungleinspired haven. Taking inspiration from the tropics, the vibrant indoor and outdoor space aims to transport guests to a lush and colourful summer paradise, where Londoners can eat, play, dance and drink, offering the ultimate festival feel that will last all summer long. www.neverlandlondon.com
Photo: Cannon Bridge Roof Gardens (3) © Anna Barclay
OLDBOOT SOFAS have just launched their new showroom on North End Road in Fulham, after it was acquired last year by Symphony Retail. Every piece is handmade in Britain and made to order so customers can choose every detail to suit their home and lifestyle – from the fabric, shape, filling and springs, down to the feet. Prices for a leather sofa start from around £1,190. The Regal Centre, North End Road, Fulham SW6 1LU, www.oldbootsofas.com
BARBER SHOP CHRONICLES return s to London for a six-week run at the Roundhouse, Camden, from 18 July to 24 August. Inua Ellams’ lauded production returns to London following two critically acclaimed runs at the National Theatre and successful tours across the globe. Directed by Bijan Sheibani, this insightful new play leaps from newsroom to political platform and confession box to preacher’s pulpit, as African men in barber shops discuss the world. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk
Photo: Lara Scobie images by Shannon Tofts Carolyn Genders images by Dee Honeybun
LINCOLN SELIGMAN (interviewed by Sid Raghava last year for KCR) continued his love affair with painting India at Osborne Studio Gallery. On his latest journey, he spent several days in the Udai Bilas Palace, where the Maharaja of Dungarpur had invited him to stay and paint in tranquillity. This inspired his series ‘Maharajas at Speed’, which Lincoln describes as ‘fanciful paintings of old cars, transporting hunting parties with a Cheetah on the back seat’. Lincoln Seligman at Osborne Studio Gallery, www.osg.uk.com
Photo: Higher Than Angels (2018), 152 x 122cm, oil and spray paint on canvas.
NASSER AZAM’S SOLO SHOW at Saatchi Gallery was inspired by Sufi saint and poet Mian Muhammad Bakhsh. The artist’s large paintings were created in situ by one of Pakistan’s highest lakes, Saiful Malook. Interweaving ideas of enlightenment, struggle and sacrifice, works reflect on Bakhsh’s poetry and the artist’s pilgrimage with composer Soumik Datta and filmmaker Souvid Datta. Nasser Azam: Saiful Malook, www.saatchigallery.com
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THE BEAUMONT is launching its inaugural literary series, bringing together the world’s best and brightest writers to read from their latest works. It will host a series of evenings, gathering people under one roof for a night of reading and refinement. And, with every hotel bedroom brimming with hard-bound books and a private dining room named after the Lotos Club in New York (one of the oldest literary clubs in the United States), the Beaumont is a fitting host for this celebration of British writing, It will commence on Wednesday 12 June 2019, with the paperback launch of Annabel Rivkin and Emilie McMeekan’s hysterical book ‘I’m Absolutely Fine. www.thebeaumont.com
DEFINE CLINIC Launched at the end of March, Define Clinic brings together the expertise of Dr Benji Dhillon, Dr Mark Hughes and Dr Slaine McGrath, renowned practitioners in the fields of facial aesthetics and cosmetic dentistry. The trio represent a first for the industry, in that never before has the synergy between the two disciplines been available for clients to explore under one roof. Ethical aesthetics are at the core of their offering, with a trade-marked consultation process and comprehensive facial assessment ensuring that optimum results are achieved for the client across both face and smile, in the recognition that the beauty of each has a great deal to do with the other. www.defineclinic.com
JAPAN HOUSE LONDON has been shortlisted in the prestigious Museums + Heritage Awards for Shop of the Year. The awards were created to celebrate groundbreaking initiatives from museums, galleries and attractions across the UK and overseas. Within less than a year, JH London has welcomed over 400,000 visitors since opening its doors in June last year. Designed to offer an authentic Japanese cultural retail experience not seen before in London, The Shop at Japan House blurs the concept between shop and gallery. JH presents the very best in Japanese art, design, gastronomy, innovation and technology. www.japanhouselondon.uk
ON 22 MAY, HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS, the Duke of Gloucester attended a celebration to mark the 150th anniversary of Harrison Housing, a charity set up by founders Miss Rebecca Goodwin and her three sisters, who were motivated by the hardship suffered by retired domestic staff. The event was attended by residents, trustees, staff and dignitaries from many London Boroughs. The charity’s first home opened in Notting Hill in 1869, and over the years both properties and money have been donated, allowing this Almshouse Charity to provide and maintain high-quality housing and support for older people in need.
JACKSON BOXER AND ANDREW CLARKE have just launched a new restaurant in Notting Hill called Orasay. Following the success of Brunswick House and St Leonards in 2018, the duo’s new venue is a 50-seat dining room in Notting Hill inspired by the western isles of Scotland, where Jackson has spent every summer since he was a small child. The menu has a strong emphasis on seafood; with incredible oysters, langoustines, scallops, razor clams, crabs and lobster from the Hebrides, as well as dishes sourced from their organic farm in West Sussex. www.orasay.london
MERE’S CHEFS REUNITED DINNER will take place on 17 June at 7pm. Chef patron, Monica Galetti, will be joined in the kitchen by Rachel Humphrey, executive chef at Le Gavroche. Together they’ve drawn up a tasting menu, matched with five exquisite wines. Guests will dine on crispy soft-shell crab with heritage tomatoes and white balsamic, followed by Mere’s famous ’Mushroom and Marmite’, then lamb rack and savoury truffle and comté doughnuts, ending on a coconut dacquoise. Tickets are £175 and guests can dine in Mere’s private dining room to watch the chefs in action via TV screens. www.mere-restaurant.com
JULIET TES INTERIORS, an award-winning name in luxury interior design, is delighted to add ’interior-design school’ to its list of achievements. After the successful launch of the first course in March, further dates have been added throughout the year, including one at the end of June. Juliettes Design School, based just a short walk away from the Design Centre in Chelsea Harbour, is well positioned for students in need of some inspiration. The short, intensive course, which includes materials, lunch and refreshments, will run for five consecutive days, serving an intimate number of five students. www.juliettesinteriors.co.uk
DAVID NOALIA AND FRIPPY JAMESON will be exhibiting their equestrian art at Osborne Studio Gallery over the months of June and July. David Noalia returns to a favourite subject: the Andalusian Horse, also known as the Pure Spanish Horse, a breed that belongs to the Iberian Peninsula. And Jameson, a sculptor, has had privileged access to the Household Cavalry to do portraits of noble horses. She’s been working from sketches, videos and images, in traditional wet clay and an oil-based clay, before bronze-casting by the skilled foundry team at Edinburgh’s Powderhall Foundry. www.osg.uk.com
TO CELEBRATE THE START OF RACING season, the Goffs London Sale (in association with QIPCO) returned on 17 June to the grounds of Kensington Palace Gardens for a festive afternoon. Marking its sixth year, the sale has been hailed as a ‘curtain raiser’ to international racing’s most iconic week – as such, it played host to VIP guests, including racing celebrities, thoroughbred owners and trainers and the ‘who’s who’ of London’s social scene. www.goffslondonsale.com
BUTLERS WHARF CHOP HOUSE has partnered with Nyetimber to bring Londoners two British favourites this summer: oysters and sparkling wine. The Oyster Shack will be popping up beside the Thames until the end of August, serving three different sizes of Colchester Rock Oysters and lashings of Nyetimber Brut. Plus, there’ll be shucking masterclasses and wine tastings to truly see the summer in. www.chophouse-restaurant.co.uk 36e Shad Thames, London SE1 2YE
5/22/2019
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A GENERAL VIEW OF THE ATMOSPHERE AT THE GOFFS LONDON SALE30
BROWN’S HOTEL, a London institution, invites you to put your best foot forward for tennis season with a Strawberries & Cream pedicure at the Mayfair hotel’s spa ahead of Wimbledon. Guests will enjoy a strawberrysoaked foot bath followed by an exfoliation with a strawberry-infused scrub. A soothing, natural ‘fresh’ cream is then applied to the feet for a moisturising massage, finishing off with a classic pedicure treatment – buffing the nails, cuticle tidy, and polish, ensuring guests are prepped for summer. The Strawberries & Cream Pedicure at Brown’s Hotel is priced at £65, including a glass of Ruinart’s Rosé Champagne and lasts 65 minutes. www.roccofortehotels.com
Photo: Sam Mullish
THE IVY CHELSEA GARDEN The Ivy Chelsea Garden hosted its annual summer party and unveiled a beautiful ‘Wild Flower Meadow’ installation. The event on 14 May saw a host of guests, including the Ivy Chelsea Garden’s regulars, local residents and VIPs, gathered together to celebrate. Guests were invited into the restaurant’s beautiful garden and orangery, which was lit by fairylights and lanterns, where they were treated to an array of floral-inspired cocktails and lots of champagne. www.theivychelseagarden.com
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FROM FIELD TO FORK HARRIET BEDDER takes a trip through the food cylce to discover the importance of sustainability.
‘Bigger Than the Plate’ runs until 20 October 2019. Tickets £17 V&A Museum. Cromwell Road, London, SW7 2RL
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Taking visitors on a sensory journey through the food cycle, from compost to table, the Bigger than the Plate exhibition – just opened at the V&A – poses questions about how the collective choices we make could lead to a more sustainable, fair and delicious food future in unexpected and playful ways. The exhibition opened with a great PR stunt; the museum released the first 200 tickets in an edible format, allowing guests to eat their entry (made from icing sugar) – an impactful beginning to the interactive journey of the exhibition. ‘The exhibition falls at a pivotal time where food and our relationship to it are topics of increasing global interest and debate.’ The V&A tells us that there have been ‘over 70 contemporary projects, new commissions and creative collaborations made by artists and designers working with chefs, farmers, scientists and local communities.’ On visiting, we enter at the first of the four stages of the food cycle: compost, farming, trading and eating. ‘Compost’, the first stop on the exhibition’s cycle, focuses on closing the nutrient loop and re-evaluating how we perceive waste. One project displayed is GroCycle’s Urban Mushroom Farm which uses wasted coffee grounds from the Benugo cafe in the V&A to grow edible oyster mushrooms. We are told that at the end of the exhibition, the mushrooms will be harvested and used in the café’s dishes, an effort to really practise what the exhibition preaches. ‘Farming’ explores ideas for reinventing relationships with the people that harvest our food; one exhibit transports us to Hong Kong where communities are so lacking in space, that they have community farms on rooftops throughout the city. ‘Trading’ delves into the supply chain and looks at diverse and transparent ways of transporting food. Company Drinks have a stand giving away free samples and promoting their East London enterprise that encourages communities - ‘to come together to: ‘run a full drinks’ production cycle of growing, picking, processing, branding, bottling, trading and reinvesting.’ Company Drinks explain that they ‘produce syrups, sodas, saps, tonics, ciders, pops and beers, creating an open, inter-generational and crosscultural public space, where people can meet to produce something useful with and for each other.’ ‘Eating’, the last stop in the cycle, examines the cultural, social and political relationships we have with food. Sissel Tolaas’ Selfmade – remade for the PAGE 10 exhibition by Open Cell, following earlier success – has controversially cultured bacteria from human subjects Heston Blumenthal, Alex James, Professor Green, PAGE 10
THE EXHIBITION
THE ART OF THE BOROUGH
IS PERFECT IF YOU’VE EVER
FANCIED A LOOK AT PROFESSOR
SARAH RODRIGUES eyes up the royal borough’s creative side at the Kensington & Chelsea Art Week
GREEN’S
BELLY BUTTON
‘MOZZARELLA’, OR HESTON’S
ARMPIT ‘COMTE.’
Ruby Tandoh and Suggs. So if you fancy a taste of Professor Green’s belly-button mozzarella, or Heston’s comté, head over to this area. Even more interesting is a large table taking over the final room housing an exploration into cutlery and ways of eating; studies have found that those with Alzheimer’s are more likely to take a drink from a colourful cup than a regular glass. After moving through the exhibition, make sure you check out the pop-up ‘LOCI Food Lab’ from Center for Genomic Gastronomy who have set up a bar run by iPads (served by staff). Visitors are encouraged to answer questions on the attributes of the food system that they value and discover which food future they’re most interested in to receive a bespoke algorithmically-generated canapé based on the answers. We chose ‘sustainable’, ‘delicious’, and ‘biodiverse’, receiving mushroom pâté on a tiny rye crouton in return. We didn’t really understand the logic behind this or the basis of the 10-ingredient menu, but enjoyed the novelty, and the interactive screen behind the ‘bar’ ranks everyone’s answers. By the end of the exhibition, the data will show what developments visitors would like to see most in the future. Insightful and experiential, the exhibition discusses diverse and creative ways for us to reimagine food waste, biodiversity, supply chains and social empowerment. It’s collected and commissioned all that’s needed for a common vision of a sustainable food future, and successfully makes a timely interjection to inspire visitors on how to impact sustainability and consumption on a smaller, local scale to create a more considered relationship with both food and waste.
Founded in 2018, the Kensington & Chelsea Art Week is an open-door festival which celebrates the borough’s significant artistic legacy, as well as its rich future potential. In highlighting the diversity and cultural variety housed within the borough, visitors and residents are encouraged to discover a wealth of studios, galleries and creatives which may perhaps otherwise be overshadowed by the larger cultural institutions for which the area is so well known. Last year’s Art Weekend was held in July and brought together 70 public events, including street-art displays, public-art installations, a free Art Bus and a late-night art trail. It’s held across 60 venues, including icons such as the V&A and Chelsea Physic Garden, and lesser-known gems like the Serena Morton Gallery and Goldfinger Factory. The event was praised by Cllr Gerard Hargreaves, Lead Member for Culture and Communities for the Royal Borough of Kensington & Chelsea, as highlighting the fact that the borough was ‘a cultural powerhouse within London.’ Significantly, 2019 marked the year that Artnet, the leading online resource for the international art market, joined the KCAW as a partner, meaning that all of the event’s participating artists and galleries had the opportunity, by way of
a complimentary trial membership, to gain the attention of a global audience of around 31 million users. ‘We’re especially proud of this partnership as it aligns with our mission to support the smaller local institutions, which may not have spare capital to spend on similar digital platforms,’ says Vestalia Chilton, founder of KCAW, ‘it also means that we are able to showcase the extent of Kensington and Chelsea’s enviable creative heritage and artistic output to millions of people around the world.’ Following the success of the 2018 event, the organisers decided to give KCAW a 2019 rebrand and worked with collaborative duo Antonia Huber and Kelly Barrow of AH-KB design studio to create a punk theme, with a bold colour palette incorporating bright reds and blues – an update on the borough’s royal colours, plus a yellow and green nod to the 70s punk aesthetic inspired by early Sex Pistols’ posters. The new theme found expression in public-art installations, including sculpture commissions and artwork on construction hoardings, created both by emerging and established artists. Activities, including cooking and life-drawing workshops, an After Nyne talks programme, walking tours and a Friday Lates gallery trail, also formed part of the event.
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Popular demand also saw the return of the KCAW Art Bus, connecting seven key zones of the borough, with stops including Masterpiece Fair, Lots Road, Ladbroke Grove, Notting Hill, South Kensington and Holland Park. Also making a return appearance after last year’s successful Pavilion Road artwork by street artist Neboe, was the Love Kensington & Chelsea Mural. Collaborating with the Royal College of Art and London Projects, KCAW invited students and alumni to create site-specific murals inspired by the borough’s history and culture. This year’s winner, Tor Ewen, created Cremorne Gardens on Walton Street; inspired by the Chelsea garden’s history as a public space for visitors and entertainment, it will be in place until at least September. ‘The Love Kensington & Chelsea Street Art project creates temporary landmarks to identify the area geographically for residents, businesses and visitors,’ says Vestalia Chilton, ‘it increases a sense of civic pride, strengthens connections across the community and celebrates the vibrancy and creativity of the borough.’ For details of further events and to receive notifications ahead of next year’s programme, visit www.kcaw.co.uk ot contact info@kcaw.co.uk
KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
MAYFAIR FLOWER SHOW AT SKETCH
‘FROM THE 1700S TO THE PRESENT DAY, THIS HISTORICAL SPACE HAS BEEN HOME TO CYCLISTS, BALLOONISTS,
PSYCHOLOGISTS, HEDONISTS… ALL SORTS OF HUMANS,
SUE SAUNDERS has a blooming marvellous time at Sketch’s celebration of the Mayfair Flower Show
GETTING UP TO ALL SORTS OF IMAGINATIVE THINGS.
Avant-garde restaurant Sketch celebrated the joys of spring with the Mayfair Flower Show, an extravaganza of floral decorations embellishing an already visually delightful, labyrinthine space. Incredibly inventive collaborations between artists and florists adorned upstairs, downstairs, and every staircase in between with stunningly clever creations, which might easily have overwhelmed a less fabulous building. Number 9, Conduit street, West 1, a beautifully proportioned eighteenth century townhouse, took it all in its generous stride, and embraced this latest explosion of diverse creativity with customary aplomb. It started at street level, with the illustrious portal and front windows framing two of da Vinci’s most captivating ladies, Mona Lisa and the Lady with an Ermine, in garlands of green with a sprinkling of unpretentious blooms in a fresh mixture of pinks and yellows. This gorgeous first impression of springtime gaiety – only enhanced by the dapper doormen, who are enough to get anyone’s sap rising – rather showed up the everyday grey of the rest of the street, despite it’s high-rent credentials. Once inside, behind this verdant façade, you are invited to ‘Step into my World’ with Figa & Co’s fantasy mural installation, reminiscent of romantic trompe-l’oeil frescoes, and aided and abetted by Timorous Beasties, a brand renowned for their wittily beautiful fabric and wallpaper prints. In reception, JamJar Flowers have designed the aptly titled ‘Are we in or out?’, an homage to William Morris and the Arts and Crafts Movement, and a glorious celebration of Britain’s wild flowers, captured in their luminous modern take on stained-glass windows, exquisite
Other rooms, other bars, met my mesmerized gaze as I peeped in at the happy incumbents, nibbling and imbibing in these surrealistic settings. For Sketch is obviously more than just a stage set – its customers expect and surely get the very finest in food and drink, as reflected in the very name of one green grotto of a room, the Salon Champagne Pommery, made more of a glade than ever with edgy floral experimentation courtesy of Thierry Boutemy. A particularly delicate Mayfair Flower Show menu was created especially by French master chef Pierre Gagnaire, for diners ascending the splash-painted stairs to the historic lectureroom and library. The private dining room is called the Millicent Fawcett Room, after the non-violent but tireless campaigner for women’s suffrage, who first called for the enfranchisement of women in a speech given here in 1869. Now the centrepiece of the magnificent dining rooms is a ravishing spectacle, an old-fashioned hot-air balloon by florist Ricky Jackson, with the basket created by designer Tino Seubert – which looks ready to take off through the heavenly domed ceiling, original to the Grade-II-listed building by architect James Wyatt. From the 1700s to the present day, this historical space has been home to cyclists, balloonists, psychologists, hedonists… all sorts of humans, getting up to all sorts of imaginative things. Come along and soak up the very special atmosphere – you’ll be in good company, and whatever the season, I promise you’ll find it positively inspiring.
KENSINGTON KENSINGTON & & CHELSEA CHELSEA REVIEW REVIEW
pressed petals glowing from within. A picture paints a thousand words, and frankly all of this needs to be seen to be believed and truly appreciated. Having never set foot inside Sketch before, it dawned upon me pretty quickly that one is never going to be at a loss for things to look at in this quirky and stimulating environment. The Flower Show, now in its fourth year – having boasted especially magical bowers last year in honour of the Royal Wedding – is a wonderful excuse for wild invention in every sense, but from furniture to flooring, there is so much to enjoy wherever you rest your gaze, whatever time of year you choose to go. Night or day, your visit cannot help but be enhanced by the really cool and clever lighting, which makes turning every corner into a glowing adventure. Even the cloakroom is a spaceage, pink-lit wonder, with its curvy window and tea-cup for tips attached jauntily to the sloping sides. And, the entire counter is able to turn on its axis to allow the hat-check girl – herself sporting a pretty floral head-piece of her own – to nip in and out at the touch of a button like a Bond girl. The sheer fun that went into every square foot of the interior design is totally infectious, and inevitably translates into a mindbogglingly memorable visit. Minimalist it most certainly isn’t, and that suits this satisfied customer just fine. The egg-shaped pod toilets are amazing in their own right – probably the most-Instagrammed in London – - set just beyond the divine pink tea-room/cocktail lounge, which has luxurious upholstery like velvet ladyfinger biscuits.
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ADVERTORIAL
CHRIS HEDLEY-DENT: A SENSE OF SPACE
PIERS FEETHAM GALLERY
Marrakesh I 49 x 120cm Oil on Canvas
CHRIS HEDLEY-DENT A Sense of Space 10th – 14th September 2019
How wonderful it is to get a glimpse of the world through the eyes of modern artist Chris Hedley-Dent. The Devon-based painter has created a fantastically broad selection of work for his forthcoming exhibition ‘A Sense of Space’ at the Piers Feetham Gallery in September. The paintings all created in the last three years are exciting explorations of the Devonshire landscape, Morocco, Spain, the Austrian Alps and the still-life genre. When asked about his personal inspiration he says ‘I am interested in the territory which lies between abstraction and figuration. I have learnt from many different traditions and artists from pre-Renaissance Italian painters to Matisse. Cubism has been particularly important as I am interested in presenting multiple viewpoints.’ Some of his paintings also reflect his interest in Islamic and Oriental art. His starting point is always working from observation, immersing himself in a specific landscape or environment as he believes that grappling with fact embeds him in his chosen subject matter and allows him to improvise freely in the studio in a much more abstract way. His studio is a fabulous Cubist-style eco-friendly space, where he paints listening to jazz and cricket on the radio. His labradoodle Pippi often nudges him to take her for a walk when he’s been in there too long. Lovers of Devon’s landscapes may recognise views from Dartmoor and the River Teign, which were painted onsite and range from closely observed works to more concise paraphrases using heightened colour with a focus on rhythm. These studies form the basis for larger, freer and more complex abstract pieces. When asked about his working practice outside Chris says, ‘I often work on very fast little reaction drawings that try to fix a particular rhythm or disposition of forms that come from scanning the landscape through a wide angle.’ (No iPhone in
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sight for this artist.) Walking is a key part of Chris’s experience of landscape and the Austrian series distils the experience of walking in the mountains and captures the majesty of the mountain forms and vertiginous sense of space. He talks of the ‘gradation of colour, from lush greens at low altitude to the greys, violets and infinite variety of whites to be seen on the glaciers.’ For those wanting something more exotic the paintings from a recent Morocco trip are just the ticket. They vary from small studies to more complex paintings that try to communicate his experience of the extraordinary and mysterious architecture in Marrakech, particularly tthe contrasts of the almost claustrophobic and tunnel like nature of the Medina with open sunlit spaces of the large squares and intimate gardens in the riads’ In some of the paintings there is a suggestion of the human figure, and the flat patterns seem to echo Moroccan carpet designs. As well as painting, Chris is a writer and keen amateur pianist, so it is no surprise that in Marrakesh III he uses a layering technique that derives from his interest in musical structures, particularly polyphony, an idea that he initially used in some of the Spanish watercolours. Several strong paintings based on the Islamic buildings of Andalucía vibrate with the Flamenco spirit of mixing music, singing and dance. This dynamic one-man show explodes with colour and stars awe-inspiring landscapes. What Chris manages to capture so well is his love of his native Devon. The Moroccan, Spanish and Austrian paintings bring not only the architecture but the spirit of the places to life. It is a delight to see this talented artist showcasing his work in London. Catch this show at the Piers Feetham Gallery (www.piersfeethamgallery.com), Fulham Road, from 10–14 September.
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Devon Farm 55 x 65cm Oil on canvas
Piers Feetham Gallery 475 Fulham Road London SW6 1HL+44 (0)7747 309 191 www.piersfeethamgallery.com Tuesday - Friday 10-6 Saturday 10-12.30 Nearest station: Fulham Broadway. Buses: 14, 211 & 414
HATS OFF
SARAH RODRIGUES learns how Oliver Brown remains buoyant (and sartorially spot-on) in the face of Brexit gloom.
When Kristian Ferner Robson bought Oliver Brown out of liquidation in 1998, the brand’s mainstay was women’s country clothing. His own background in bespoke tailoring and eveningwear informed his decision to introduce these areas of expertise into the business, as well as a collection of classic city suits. The decision, in 2017, to double the size of the store, which is located on Lower Sloane Street, was partly inspired by a desire to incorporate a dedicated bespoke area at the store’s front. Here, Juan Carlos Benito Jorge, the only Gen Y master tailor in London to have such impeccable skills, presides over his cutting table, visible from the street. ‘It’s extremely unique to see this in London,’ explains Kristian Ferner Robson. ‘We are very fortunate to have Juan Carlos heading up our bespoke tailoring; both his father and grandfather were tailors, so it really is in his DNA.’ His age is also a draw for younger customers, many of whom are advancing in city careers and want quality, well-tailored clothing. ‘Bespoke tailoring is growing rapidly for us,’ says Ferner Robson. ‘It supports the brand’s credentials and is great for business.’ It certainly seems to be: at a time when brands are struggling under the weight of an impending Brexit, Oliver Brown reports that their spend per customer has increased significantly over the past two years. Clients come from Europe, the UAE, Australia and America, with US trade, supported by the Breeders’ Cup, experiencing particularly strong growth. ‘People believe in the brand and we have the trust of many of our customers,’ says Ferner Robson. ‘Our existing customers know we produce quality products and will return again and again – people always need new suits and formal wear.’
Royal Ascot has been a huge aspect of the brand’s success – a fact not harmed by an early decision to hire quality formalwear, which this year saw Oliver Brown hiring out around 2,000 morning suits over Ascot week alone. 2019 also marked the third consecutive year that Oliver Brown was an Official Licensee of Royal Ascot. A collection inspired by the heritage of the Royal Meeting, created collaboratively with Ascot and comprising traditional formal daywear, such as a double-breasted waistcoat with shawl collar and contrast piping, crafted from pure wool. Describing the brand as ‘champions of British manufacturing’, Oliver Brown’s bespoke commissions and ‘House Style’ collection are all made in-house, while other collections are outsourced to Leeds. Other than their top-quality Loro Piana Italian fabric, the fabrics used are all 100 per cent British. Oliver Brown also boasts the most comprehensive collection of top hats in the world, a fact that has its roots in Ferner Robson’s savvy student days when he subsidised his income by buying and selling them. ‘I bought my first topper for just £50 on London’s Portobello Road and swiftly sold it for £200 to Lock & Co hatters in St James’s – that, really, was the start of a lifelong passion,’ he explains. ‘Top hats have remained a mainstay of the business. We are the country’s oldest independent top hat specialist and the absolute authority on top hats and gentleman’s styling and etiquette for Royal Ascot.’ www.oliverbrown.org.uk | 75 Lower Sloane Street, SW1W 8DA
FIRST-CLASS STOWAWAY STOW’s luxury leather goods make the ideal travel companion, says SARAH RODRIGUES
Having launched in 2013 with just four women’s designs in four colours, STOW is now Meghan Markle’s go-to travel brand: the Duchess has, on more than one occasion, been snapped holding the First Class Leather Tech case in Amber Orange. It’s not just this royal seal of approval of which the brand, and its founder Carol Lovell, can feel proud: they have also been named a Walpole Brand of Tomorrow, a programme from which British designers and brands ranging from Orlebar Brown to Emilia Wickstead have been able to build on their success. The Meghan effect had already created a great deal of buzz around STOW in the American market but, according to Lovell, this has only been enhanced by the Walpole recognition. ‘We are seeing a surge in US orders,’ she says, ‘in the short term, we’re concentrating on developing that interest in addition to securing our place as the destination for luxury travel goods in the UK.’ Recognising the absence of such a destination was what led Lovell to create STOW six years ago. ‘I realised there was no single brand specialising solely in luxury travel accessories; most were being positioned alongside other luxury accessories,’ she explains. As well as heightening her awareness of this gap in the market, Lovell’s own experiences of travel have, of course, informed every stage of STOW’s growth; an ardent wanderluster, she draws inspiration from her travels for her business. ‘I enjoy the sense of freedom and curiosity sparked by travel,’ she says. ‘Big skies inspire me; I love deserts and other vast landscapes. Some of the most memorable and inspirational places I’ve travelled to include the Dolomites, New Zealand’s South Island, Cape Town and Tibet.’ Each piece in the range – which has grown from modest beginnings to 22 designs across seven colours, with products for both men and women – is not only inspired by travel, but by travellers, keeping a desire for luxury firmly balanced with modern requirements for practicality. With phone-charger cases and jewellery rolls among the products, there’s an emphasis on functionality, with multiple interior pockets in the tech cases and magnetic sections in the jewellery boxes. Travellers of times gone by are also honoured in the designs; say, the Pioneer Collection, which includes the Hester jewellery box, named after Lady Hester Stanhope, who combined being an adventurer and archaeologist with being a socialite in the 18th century, and the Amelia, named after 19th-century Egyptologist and feminist Amelia Edwards. The fusion of intrepidity and quality finds form in ‘wanderluxe’, an expression coined by Lovell, who describes it as an attitude. ‘A STOW spirit prefers to be doing, not having,’ she says. ‘Travelling is the ultimate ‘doing’ experience and our products are a luxurious and long-lasting travel accessory for those who seek to experience the world we live in.’ A self-confessed Europhile, Lovell has a strong relationship with the Spanish ateliers responsible for the exquisite craftsmanship of each of her designs, incorporating contrast goat-suede linings and stout gold hardware. ‘Personalisation is also a key element of the STOW experience, with options including hand-painted or monogrammed initials, hand-painted flowers or handwritten messages rendered in embossing,’ Lovell explains. ‘I love our marriage of British design, Spanish and Italian materials and craftsmanship and British fulfilment and operations, all combining to create luxurious pieces which can be used and treasured for years to come.’
www.stowlondon.co.uk.
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The Victoria & Albert Museum’s immensely popular Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibition has had its run extended to September. Mais oui. After all, the show had a wildly successful run in Paris and sell-out tickets in London, and the designer’s reverieweaving wares and iconic tailoring continue to enchant punters. Alongside the allure of swooshy ballgowns, silhouette-refining suits and curvaceous scent spritzers, the designer was a devout anglophile, espousing the joys of British traditions, manners, food, gardens and more. With that in mind, we’ve found a fitting tribute to Dior at suitably stylish stay the Franklin Hotel. This black, white and mirrored, west London outpost of Star Hotels Collezione has devised an afternoon tea inspired by different aspects of Dior’s life. You’re immersed into the fantasy of this delightful couture tea on arrival; tables are strewn with fake flowers and jars of pink and white meringues are there for the raiding (the cachet of luxury event organisers La Fête is at play here). Chef Alfredo Russo (who has the twinkle of a Michelin Star in his eye) has dreamt up savoury and sweet delicacies to walk us through Dior’s life and legacy. First, a plate of artfully arranged pastries and sandwiches arrives, each significantly named. The Legacy of a Dreamer (salmon with courgette and soy sauce) is an elegant twist on the cucumber classic, but I’m more taken with the decadent offerings. The Train
to Montecatini (a choux puff filled with foie gras and strawberry jam) alludes to Dior’s last meal of a whole foie gras, and the éclair cousumain (a fondue-piped, truffle-spiked pastry wearing a jaunty truffle beret) is named in honour of Dior’s self-penned cookbook. Desserts really lean into Dior’s flights of fancy: the fragranceinspired J’adore (a peanut sponge with chocolate cream) comes with an old-school perfume spritzer filled with calvados. The Pink House (a lemon and strawberry macaron named for Dior’s childhood home in Normandy) is perched on its own little Philippe Starck-style ‘ghost’ chair, a chocolate and cream cake rests atop a spun-sugar cloud, petits fours are arranged in a make-up compact. It’s all devilishly detailed and beautifully executed – a true standout in a city where afternoon teas live and die by novelty. We opt for champagne (what else?) and order pots of Earl Grey tea from a booklet of exotic loose-leafs, but you could wash down these treats with a bloominspired cocktail of Sauvelle vodka, L’Original Combier, Triple Sec, Combier Crème de Violette, lemon and blackberries. The Franklin is a superb host, with charming staff from doorstep to departure and a linger-longer attitude. And the artfully conceived affair works in Dior’s canny magic: there’s femininity to proceedings that doesn’t feel twee, Gallic grace with Brit eccentricity; and attention to detail – a truly original tea inspired by a true original. J’adore.
DESIGNER OF DREAMS AT THE FRANKLIN, STARHOTELS COLLEZIONE
DIOR 24 Egerton Gardens, Chelsea, London SW3 2DB
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GAME ON The 2019 Game Fair returns to Hatfield House, with an exciting new installation. July will once again see Hatfield House host the Game Fair, offering attendees unparalleled access to a vast catchment area within easy reach of central London. Over the weekend of 26–28 July, the estate – home of Lord and Lady Salisbury – will attract over 120,000 visitors; the event, now in its 61st year, is the only one of its kind, dedicated to all things fieldsports, shooting and land management. Celebrating British field sports and country life, The Game Fair events will include gundog handling, clay shooting, archery, fishing, falconry and ferreting, side by side with a wide range of food, drink and shopping stalls, as well as outdoor activities including off-road driving. New for this year is the installation of the largest show garden ever attempted: covering a vast acreage of ground and built from scratch in just 90 days, the garden will be comprised of 5,000 plants and trees, 400 roses, 338m2 of turf and 20 metres of drystone wall. Built by the students of Capel Manor College, of which Lady Salisbury is a patron, and sponsored by IndependentlyOwned Private Client Investment Management Firm, Charles Stanley, The Game Fair Gardens are to create an immersive and interactive experience, telling the story of the countryside and traditional practices through a number of themed gardens. A stage at the centre of the Gardens will also be in situ, hosting Q&As, demonstrations and debates. According to James Gower, Managing Director of the Game Fair, ‘A show garden on this scale has never been attempted before, but given its outstanding reputation for garden design, innovation and young talent, Capel Manor College is perfectly placed to deliver it at Hatfield House this summer.’ London’s only specialist centre for land-based studies, Capel Manor College, which has a number of London campuses, is a leading education provider for those interested in animals and the environment, offering apprenticeships in London for those looking to work and contribute to urban regeneration and the rural economy. Uniquely placed to contribute to Mayor Sadiq Khan’s latest visions for London, which include plans for it to comprise 50 per cent green space, the college can facilitate how people can take care of and maintain these vital areas in London – and there are plans, post Game Show, to pass on some of the plants from the show garden to charities, schools and hospices as a lasting legacy. ‘We are very excited to be bringing a substantial display of horticulture and environmental skills to The Game Fair at Hatfield House, to showcase the many talents of our students and staff,’ says Malcolm Goodwin, Principal at Capel Manor College. ‘The college provides fantastic opportunities for young people and career changers alike and his exhibit will show how people can have wonderful careers by learning how to create beautiful gardens, produce food from the land and look after the countryside and wildlife to create a healthier, more attractive, productive and accessible environment for everyone.” www.thegamefair.org www.capel.ac.uk
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Alina Roxana Moise is a Moldavian-Romanian designer, now resident in London and gaining in celebrity. The polyglot (who speaks six languages and counting) has a degree in Fashion Marketing from Parsons School of Design in New York. Born to a mother who was a professor of both German and French and a businessman father who also used to teach physics and mathematics, Alina believes that she inherited her business acumen from her dad and her artistic skills from her mum. Her passion for fashion was evident early on; Moise made her first foray into business with her own company at the young age of 24 and was awarded with the prize for the best young designer and entrepreneur in Romania by Fashion TV. After living and working in countries, including Switzerland, Italy, France and the USA, and travelling to more than 70 others, she developed an idea for her resortwear-focused brand ‘Alina London’, inspired by her luxurious, exotic getaways. Her designs are tailored towards adventurous, strong, fit and fashion-conscious women, and Moise wants to transform Alina London into the go-to brand for when it comes to buying holiday wear, with other outlets slated for cities like New York and Dubai. The crowning jewel in this exciting and ambitious plan is the honour of working with the legendary Jitrois on an leather goods capsule-collection. It has taken the brand to a different level and opened new horizons for high fashion. As dedicated fans of the brand, Jitrois CEO Gilbert Maria and founder Jean-Claude Jitrois found that an ‘out-ofthe box’ collaboration with Alina came naturally. Most fashion followers will know that leather has defined Jean-Claude Jitrois’ career, and over the years his creations have been worn by the likes of Brigitte Bardot, Elton John, Cher, Yoko Ono and Stéphanie de Monaco, to name but a few. The eponymous label has helped to show the world that leather can be sophisticated and versatile – so much so that Jitrois was knighted in 2001 with the Légion d’Honneur, the highest French order of merit, for his services to the fashion industry and the promotion of French fashion abroad. Thankfully, even at the ripe age of 74, Jitrois is not showing any signs of slowing down and his collaboration with Alina London is now available exclusively at Fashion Joint’s new concept store on Brompton Road for residents of Kensington and Chelsea. It is a womenswear resort brand with a limited-edition capsule collection of six suits in suede and stretch fabric. Alina only discovered Jitrois when passing by on Sloane street and immediately fell in love with the idea of working together, so it’s only fitting that the store is based in the Royal Borough. The collection allows the wearers to express themselves brightly, with white and gold shades, combining comfort and femininity. Stretch and suede leather, referred to as Jitrois second skin, accentuates body shapes. Jean-Claude Jitrois proudly says: ‘Alina and I wanted a timeless travel collection of island-inspired femininity, aiming to lead the wearer on a new path of desire to a more powerful self.’ PAGE 21
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“A HIGHLIGHT IS THAT WE ARE NESTLED RIGHT BETWEEN THE PITONS AT THE TOP OF THE HILL, IN THE RAINFOREST. WE CAN HEAR BIRDS AROUND US, AND WE FEEL LIKE A PART OF NATURE. WE TRY TO TAKE PICTURES OF THE PATIO’S VIEWS, BUT NO ANGLE CAN TRULY DO THEM JUSTICE.”
CRYSTAL WATERS
HARRIET BEDDER visits the island where the rum pours as free as the sun shines
When you first step off the plane, St Lucia’s heat engulfs you. The smell of the sea is infused into the light breeze, and the tarmac shimmers as we scuttle off the plane. Floating through the tiny terminal we glide straight into a Mercedes-Benz waiting to take us directly to Sugar Beach, Soufriere. The hotel is 40 minutes northwest from the airport; but along the way, our driver explains the entire history of St Lucia. Neither I, nor my companion, have been to the island before, so we encourage him by asking lots of questions. He regaled us with tales about the Chairman’s Rum Distillery of St Lucia, its history and the many competitions it’s won in recent years. He tells us that in St Lucia you can paint your house whichever colour you like (his is pink); and, he shows us different trees and flowers by the road, explaining how the island is mostly self-sufficient and can grow vast varieties of fruits and vegetables without the need for importing. It’s impressive, and they’re striving to improve. After driving past several fields of crops en route to Sugar Beach, a Viceroy Resort – banana trees wrapped in plastic bags catch our eye (apparently they protect the bananas from pests before they are exported to British supermarkets like Waitrose). We’ve heard we’re staying at the best hotel on the island, and we’re very much anticipating our arrival after a long and windy drive through jungle roads. When we arrive at Sugar Beach we notice groups of friends and families being shuttled around the resort: up to the gym, to a deck overlooking the ocean for a yoga session or a private tennis lesson – everyone has a smile on their face. As do we, when we are greeted with a fresh coconut at check-in, a well-needed refreshment.
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As we make our way through the estate towards our villa, we notice how expansive its grounds are (it covers 100 acres and houses 96 suites, after all). In order to get people up and down the mountainside, where the hotel is set between the island’s two famous pitons, Sugar Beach supplies a free buggy-service, which can be taken advantage of by calling your butler to book a ride. Each room, or cluster of rooms, has personal butler service, and each member of the room is given a mobile phone with an individual number inputted, which can be used to call and politely request for something, no matter where you are in the resort. The rooms themselves are mainly white colonial plantation villas with wraparound porches. Each room has double patiodoors, which open out onto a lounge area, with a hammock, sunloungers and infinity pool – all overlooking the turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea. Inside, the floors are marble; there are walk-in wardrobes; and the decor is white-on-white. The four-poster bed is swathed in nets and dressed with pure Egyptian cotton. The shuttered doors and windows, also white, are all visible from our bed to allow sea views. A highlight is that we are nestled right between the two pitons at the top of the hill, in the rainforest. We can hear birds and other creatures around us, and we feel like a part of nature. We try to take pictures of the patio’s views, but no angle can truly do them justice. We post on social media and are asked jokingly ‘have you never been on holiday before?’, well certainly nowhere quite like this, we’re sure… Sugar Beach is the epitome of luxury and we want to experience it all before we depart. Though there are two beaches at the property, the main
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one – lined with palm trees – has had its unblemished, purewhite sand imported from nearby Guyana, and it’s served with a deliciously dramatic vista of both Gros and Petit Pitons. The hotel provides fun floats for sea-faring groups of friends, so they can drift over to the bar, or to sunbathe on. We see the beach for the first time as we head down for a Creole dinner at the Bayside restaurant, which offers an abundance of fresh fish, delicious gumbos and prime cuts of meat sourced from the island. We have a Caribbean rum punch or two (which become addictive over the next few days), before heading back to our room to stargaze on the patio. The hotel’s location has so little light pollution that the star-coverage is second only to scenes I’ve seen in the deepest depths of the Canadian wilderness. Sugar Beach is so popular a place to stay in St Lucia, that since its renovation into a luxury Viceroy hotel, celebrities flock to it – it isn’t a surprise that as we leave, Venus Williams arrives. This is the hotel Matt Damon rented out in its entirety in 2013. The hotel is so vast and private that it’s easy to remain anonymous here. The hotel offers an abundance of activities, too: scuba diving, horse riding, tennis lessons, yacht excursions… One of our favourite activities is rum tasting in the Cane Bar – a hidden spot just off the main foyer, with panoramic views of the sea, live music in the evenings and a comfortable, lively setting. If you fancy something a little relaxing after a heavy night of rum-drinking, the aptly named Rainforest Spa has eight private treehouse treatment rooms, high above the rainforest floor. If you’re looking for an alternative coffee fix, the hotel offers many personalised experiences using Caribbean coffee scrubs among other branded products. The spa also has private outdoor pools and a relaxation area where you can relax to the sound of running water and birdsong. Leaving the hotel for excursions is a must: we drive through the town of Soufriere – a beautiful town full of colourful houses and street markets – to the New Jerusalem falls. You have to climb through the rainforest to get to these thermal pools, which are privately owned and cared for by a local, but once you are there, the experience is phenomenal. Despite arriving on a Sunday morning, the thermal pools are completely empty and we have free rein. We’re told how many times the local family that own the land have been offered unspeakable amounts of money to sell and declined. It’s a charming story and we are so inspired by the integrity of the St Lucians to conserve their home. We don’t want to leave the New Jerusalem Falls but we have to prise ourselves away to go back to the hotel and explore. Later that evening we have a six-course tasting menu with a variety of wines in the fine-dining Great Room. The menu has dishes such as New Zealand lamb with macaroni stuffed with foie gras, Kobe beef with a rich red-wine jus, and perfectly
cooked Mahi-Mahi with green-fig mash and tropical salsa – all are exquisite. Both the low-lit rooms and the porch have huge ceiling fans and grand tables that are so stereotypically Caribbean that we still can’t wipe the grin off our faces. After dinner, we make our way down to the beach bar where we catch the end of the live band performing on the beach, and have a few more rum punches before heading back to our villa. The following day, we explore the world’s only ‘drive-in’ volcano at the Sulphur Springs, which is just down the road in Soufriere. Here – despite the overpowering sulphur smell – are mud baths, where we are encouraged to cover ourselves in mud before soaking it off in the Springs. After washing away our impurities, we headed back to the hotel via a zip-lining adventure through the rainforest at Morne Coubaril Historical Adventure Park, which is set on an 18th-century cocoa plantation with its own working mill. Whipping through the rainforest, we try to forget we’re checking out of Sugar Beach later that day. We see the birds gliding through the trees above us and feel the sun on our faces as it breaks through the rainforest canopy.
Rates at Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort from $455 (approx. £357) per night. Room only. Excluding 10% VAT www.viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/sugar-beach
If you wish to extend your stay and see another part of the Island, try Calabash Cove, located on the northernmost tip of St Lucia. Here, the Caribbean Sea meets the North Atlantic Ocean, the waters are aquamarine and the breeze is pleasantly cooling. The hotel is smaller, but the rooms are in the same antique wooden style; dark oak is the encompassing theme here, and it’s complemented by tropical fabrics. The staff are flawlessly polite and friendly, and are on hand to offer local tips for the nearby town of Corinth. We particularly enjoy the beach at the hotel, which similarly to Sugar Beach has perfect white sand and comes accompanied by turtles ducking in and out of the water just off the shoreline. Prices start from £1,459 a person including flight, bed and breakfast (in September) www.destination2.co.uk/hotels/calabash-cove www.calabashcove.com
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Photos: Steve Herud
A CITY & COUNTRY BREAK IN FRANCE We get the best of both worlds by combining urban sophistication with rustic relaxation… THE CITY STAY - 25HOURS HOTEL TERMINUS NORD Unlike St Pancras International, the Eurostar’s formerly scruffy London terminus, the Gare du Nord has yet to have a dramatic makeover. But, change is coming – the station was recently given a shiny new revamp, cult eateries (hello, Big and Little Fernand) have sprung up close by and the hip 25hours hotel group have taken up residence steps from the station’s doorway. This brand of stylish stays has a chameleonic ability to tap into their neighbourhood’s vibe – the 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin branch had an edgy industrial quality, Vienna’s 25hours Hotel at MuseumQuartier stay evoked 19th-century elegance and upcoming iterations in Florence and Dubai will likely follow suit. The Parisian outpost reflects the 10th arrondisement’s multicultural mien: it’s a riotously colourful space with an Israeli diner and a bar named Sape after the Congolese Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes – a group of dandies dubbed ‘sapeurs’. Riotously hued Indian- and African-style fabrics are used throughout, alongside brilliant hues on the walls, and there are nods to local diversity that run deeper than just looks. In rooms, there are squeaky dolls – copies of the first mass produced in Africa – local heroes are celebrated in vivid murals, and photographs of neighbourhood residents have been gathered for a book, Portraits from the Gare du Nord. Our room, a Medium+ (rooms are similarly decorated but range from Small to an Extra Large+) has patterns in chartreuse, orange and purple, a neon sign bearing the legend ‘Très Chic’, a vintage travel trunk and posters, and a huge walk-in shower with organic toiletries. 25Hours’ playful branding is present – the Do not Disturb booklet has several scenarios to choose from: ‘please place aspirin behind this door and leave’, ‘sometimes it’s better not to know’… We’re also privy to a balcony overlooking the Gare du Nord’s grand façade, topped with figures representing different European cities, and we can stream on our TV, we’re delighted to discover – all the more reason for keeping the covers up in the outrageously comfy bed. But, the hotel lures you out with the promise of Sape bar’s
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drinks, a chic, bronze accented space with pillowy banquettes, Día de los Muertos-themed cushions and art-lined walls. In one corner is a DJ booth, backed by a wall of cult album covers. The Cool section of its menu is inspired by the likes of the Experimental Cocktail Club, Dirty Dick and Candelaria Taqueria – other cocktails are sorted into Brave, Colourful and Elegant categories. We opt for a ‘Cool’ Pineapple Express (a piña colada with a passionfruit kick) and a ‘Colourful’ gin-, curaçao- and absinthe-laced Corpse Reviver from the Colourful section. Then we make our merry way to Neni restaurant, an eatery that takes its name from the initials of chef Haya Molcho’s four sons. Meals are served ‘balagan’ style (aka a free-for-all) so order up a bunch of small plates: a houmous trio for dipping, Moroccan ‘cigars’ stuffed with beef, pine nuts and harissa, burnt leek with hazelnut dukkah and more. Our hamshuka is a mix of spiced minced beef and lamb in a well of houmous that could have perhaps done with a little more bread on the side. Breakfast – also served in the millennial-pink kasbah-style room – is a lavish affair of meats, cheeses, crackably caramelised French toast, shakshuka on request and a smorgasbord of hot and cold picks. Charmingly, there are dainty pâté en croûte slices and a bottle of champagne on ice for cheeky bellinis and mimosas. But, the hotel encourages you to explore further, leaving an eco-friendly Freitag tote in your room, and offering free Schindelhauer bike or Mini hire if you want to explore further. On your way out swing by the coffee stand and pause to eye up the boutique’s wares – we especially liked the sapeur-inspired sweatshirts and bottle-cap totes. The achingly cool, jolie laide Marais district lies to your left, Montmartre’s hilly greenery straight ahead and the Ile de la Cite is just a 20-minute stroll. And – even if leaving is so very hard to do – the Eurostar terminal is just a skip across the street. Parfait. 25hours Hotel Terminus Nord, 12 Boulevard de Denain, Paris 75010, +33 1 42 80 20 00, www.25hours-hotels.com. Travelling to Le Barn… the hotel is just an hour’s drive from Paris. A taxi will set you back about £80 each way.
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THE COUNTRY STAY - LE BARN The country charms of France’s Périgord region, Provençal lavender fields and vineyard- and château-dotted Loire Valley are well known – so much so that they’ve spawned a run of TV shows and novels where expats salvage the regions’ time-worn estates. But just south of Paris is a picturesque pocket of greenery largely known to just French city-breakers looking for a breath of fresh air. Le Barn hotel sits at the heart of Rambouillet Forest – a former hunting ground for kings and emperors and home to the Château de Rambouillet – the former summer home for sitting presidents. The hotel is humbly rustic yet certifiably hip, and at just an hour’s drive from the capital, it’s ideal for a fleeting weekend fling. The farm has a placid lake, paddocks, stables and charming stone buildings given some urban edge by Parisian design studio BePoles. Here, guests slumber in red-roofed ‘barns’ with rooms that feel like high-end school-sleepaway dorms, lined in untreated wood and chipboard hung with modern art, coloured in pup-tent hues of moss green and mustard. A short stroll away from our room – during which we spy a dormouse burrowing in the tree roots and school of fish in the lake – is a complex of repurposed farm buildings. The charm of their original stony façades is bolstered by the sweetest of rustic trappings: bottles of lavender, a store for wellingtons, a hefty woodburner and bulging burlaps, which on a working farm bear an air of authenticity rather than just design traits there for the ‘gram. Within, the space feels more like a Scandi loft with mid-century modern furnishings, vintage finds, judiciously chosen taxidermy and a smattering of faux naif art. I especially like the conservatories where restaurant Le Serre is housed. As you’d expect, Le Barn’s food is locally grown, much of it onsite, and menus shift with the seasons and harvest hauls. Over the two nights we stay there we dine on a fork-lickingly creamy chicken supreme with carrots five ways (grilled in turmeric, pickled, and puréed), veal-carpaccio with sauce gribiche, chilled trout stained with beetroot, hefty slices of pâté en croûte and a spiky
ceviche. A dish of corn-fed chicken with sweetcorn, creamed corn and popcorn feels a little on the nose, and the menu may get a little repetitive if you’re staying for a longer break, but our reservations are tempered by a tremendous cheese board of aged comte, buttery mimolette, pasture-fresh goat’s cheese, brie de meaux and more. And, if you overindulge, there are plentiful opportunities to be out and about, both in the grounds and onwards into the 30,000 hectares of wildlife-roamed forest, thick with acorn trees, elms, silver birch and oak. The hotel is renowned for its riding – handsome horses graze away in a stretch of paddocks, ready for guests to saddle up for a trot, and there’s a chance to watch them exercise in the stables. Guests are given walking maps on arrival, with routes ranging from gentle strolls to hilly treks. There’s an archery range, bikes of all sizes to borrow, croquet and petanque kits, and you can secure a little boat for a row across the lake or rods for fishing sessions. There’s a daily programme of activities for all ages, too: yoga, dinosaur egg hunts, a running club and more – check at the reception desk for the day’s programme. It’s extremely family-friendly too (couples looking for a romantic break should avoid school holidays if they want to avoid ankle-biters). There’s a cupboard full of board games, plus starter ponies, bikes and a games room with pool and ping pong. But, there’s a case to be made for slowing right down – the spa is set in a beautiful old mill, where a nimble-fingered masseur will pummel out any riding knots, before sending you in a snuggly robe for a spell in the sauna or Nordic bath, check out the daily freshly baked cake left out for guests at reception, or get the kitchen staff to pack you a picnic. Or, maybe simply have them deliver a bottle of wine to your room to drink on the sunny semiprivate terrace, until dusk’s pinks and oranges are reflected on the lake and dissolve into a starlit night. Le Barn, Le Moulin de Brétigny, 78830 Bonnelles, France, +33 1 86 38 00 00, https://lebarnhotel.com
OUR PICKS IN PARIS HÔTEL DE CRILLON BRASSERIE D’AUMONT 10 PLACE DE LA CONCORDE, 75008 PARIS
HÔTEL DES GRANDS BOULEVARDS 17 BOULEVARD POISSONNIÈRE, 75002 PARIS
Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel is a stately juggernaut facing the Place de la Concorde – all Corinthian columns and reclining Grecian hardbodies crafted by Baroque sculptor Guillaume Coustou. It’s perhaps the grandest of Paris’ grandes dames, commissioned by King Louis XV as a neoclassical palace, before aesthete Louis Marie Augustin, the Duke of Aumont, moved in. His legacy lives on in gilded objets, walls awash in dainty arabesques and Art Deco Brasserie d’Aumont, where we’ve arrived to sample classic French fare. Dining here means dwelling on its dramatic past. When snappily named Count de Crillon, François-Félix-Dorothée des Balbes de Berton lived here, Queen Marie Antoinette visited for piano lessons. Later, as the French Revolution and Reign of Terror gained speed, the Queen and King Louis XV were both guillotined steps from the Crillon’s door. The palace became a hotel in 1909; since then it’s survived two world wars, hosted countless A-listers and had an impressive makeover, giving guests a taste of ancien-regime-worthy splendour (including two Karl Lagerfeld-styled apartments, from €15,000 a night). And yet, it’s the sight of a burger on the Tricolour-waving menu that leaves me stunned. But, its provenance owes more to the new wave of chic French burger joints than la malbouffe (junk food). The beef has been butchered in-house, St Nectaire cheese from Auvergne melts into the marbling and the sauce stars smoky pimenton de la Vera – a spice found exclusively in Spain’s La Vera valley. Each ingredient is storied. The oysters on ice at the marble crudo bar are produced for the hotel only, on north Brittany’s Callot island; my starter of a meaty pâté en croûte with a disc of foie gras at its heart made chef Justin Schmitte a laureate of the Meilleur Ouvrier de France; and unique cuts of meat are a specialty – my dining partner’s T-bone is a meltingly soft and perfectly pink, served with potatoes liberally roasted in butter. This culinary attentiveness goes beyond the food – Schmitte designed many of the ceramics, too. On the menu, I clock some old-school dishes: devilled eggs, a huge rum baba…deference is paid to vegetarians too. A gungho approach to the wine list could be costly here, but our soft 2015 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune (a snip at €75) goes down easily. To finish, a glassine chocolate tart with speculoos and a St Honoré with yuzu cream, mango and caramel. Both are devastating on impact – Marie did not say ‘Let them eat cake’, but here, you really should. And, yes, this rarefied decadence was her downfall, but unflaggingly polite servers, a cosily gilded cage and exquisite food are oh-so easy to get used to…
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Before we’re due at the Experimental Group’s Hôtel des Grands Boulevards for dinner, we stop at the metal-blasting ‘James Hetfeeld’ bar, where our drinks are soundtracked by a volley of police vans headed for Montmartre to keep an eye on the gilets jaunes’ protest. It’s a chaotic start to the night; however, once we pass through Grands Boulevards’ pergola into its lowlit courtyard, generic rock classics and sirens fade away and romance is restored. Stars twinkle overhead through the glass roof, candles flicker over flagstone floors and soft music is only interrupted by the swoosh of a shimmying cocktail shaker as mixologists impress the chic sippers gathered round the central bar. Paris’s dreaminess potently distilled. Wildly imaginative drinks have been the Experimental Group’s party trick since 2007, when they opened an unassuming bar that grew into a hospitality empire. They now have bars in bigticket cities and party isles, and stylish hotels in London, Paris, Verbier, Menorca and, soon, Venice. And, credit must go to group collaborator, designer Dorothée Mellichzon, who established the group as true style-setters. They’re credited with bringing cocktail culture to France after they were inspired by New York’s scene and their legacy is a new generation of bartender fans. But, one cannot live by bar snacks alone – the group is just as exacting when it comes to dining, so we’re here to try Grands Boulevards’ elegant menu, a paean to simple, rustic French and Italian cooking, conceived by Roman chef Giovanni Passerini. It’s cuisine that lends itself well to date-night dining or group free-foralls, with sharing plates and a penchant for handmade pasta. To start, lobster bisque with crab dumplings and ribbons of butternut squash. The bisque is a little shallow, but the dumplings wallow happily in this puddle of umami, each satisfyingly seafresh. To follow, gnocchi con sugo di coda alla vaccinara: pillowy parcels in oxtail stew with a liberal sprinkling of parmesan, a hearty, warming plate evocative of rolling greenery and charmingly crumbling villas. My dining partner’s pollock scores points for inventive flavourings, served amid cauliflower florets, pine nuts, oyster mushrooms and raisins. Dessert is revelatory: a strip of almond cake topped with bergamot mousse, with a quenelle of grapefruit sorbet – it’s refreshing yet spoon-lickingly creamy. And, from chef sorcery we move to bar magic. Cocktails are graded from ‘No shells’ (teetotal) to ‘Two shells’ (‘Did I ever tell you about the time when…’); I hit the high grade with a rum-sloshed Old Cuban with mint, champagne and ginger. My companion goes moderate with a ‘One shell’ Winter Colada with pumpkin, almond milk, maple syrup and licorice bitters. A heady end to a night that’s no longer noisy as we leave, walking out into a world of twinkling serenity.
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SPRING ON THE STRASSE HARRIET BEDDER lives the life of luxury in Berlin at Hotel Adlon Kempinski After an early flight from Gatwick, we emerge from Berlin Tegel Airport fresh-faced and ready to see just how many schnitzel and Holsten we can cram into the long weekend. We jump into a famous ivory taxi which speeds happily through Berlin’s suburbs towards Hotel Adlon Kempinski, our homestead for the weekend. The journey reveals the history found in every corner of Berlin, but it is not until we spot the Victory Column that we begin to feel excited about this cultural foray. En route to the hotel, our driver offers recommendations for dinner; so many that we wish had booked more time in the city. He keeps pointing out the American embassy, and we let it slide until he offers to take us there before our hotel, at which point we have to confess we’re actually British, at which point, he shows us the British embassy. Reassuringly, it’s directly behind our hotel, which we now understand is at the heart of the political district. After passing the Tiergarten, landmarks come thick and fast: notably the looming Reichstag (designed by Norman Foster, of the ‘Gherkin’ fame), its dome glinting despite the weather’s dullness. Lunch is in a few hours, so we excitedly climb up the spiral walkway inside the dome to the viewing platform, which offers spectacular views of the city. Well, usually – cheer up, German weather… Unfortunately, when we sit down at Käfer – the Reichstag restaurant – to share veal schnitzel and kartoffelklöße (potato dumplings), its accompanying panoramic views are of an overcast city. Hotel Adlon Kempinski occupies a prime spot on Under den Linden, and tourists fill the square outside the hotel, snapping pictures of the Brandenburg Gate, all seemingly on a guided tour. The taxi drops us at the end of the red-carpeted walkway, which leads to the grand lobby. Caped, top-hat-clad bellboys greet us and usher us through the recently renovated lobby and to the front desk, where there’s no lack of receptionists, concierges and even Kempinski’s signature ‘Ladies in Red’ ambassadors. The latter group provides the most personal and tailored service in hospitality, guaranteeing a memorable stay for anyone in their care. It’s not yet time to check in, so we grab coffee and admire the surroundings. The lobby had a £5 million (and up) renovation in 2017, and it makes quite the first impression with doubleheight ceilings, a dining balcony on the second floor and a lightflooded atrium (though the only natural light comes through the front door). The coffered, arched ceiling brightens and dims depending on the time of day; below there’s an elegant marble bar and glass tables, grey-velvet sofas and high-backed armchairs clustered around the focal point of the room: the iconic elephant fountain, the only surviving historical artifact in the hotel, gifted to the Adlon in the 1930’s by an Indian Maharajah. The hotel (named after Lorenz Adlon, it’s original owner) first opened on 23 October 1907. It burned down in WWII, but rose from the ashes years later, re-opening in 1997. It quickly reclaimed its reputation as Berlin’s most illustrious hotel. Its proximity to the Reichstag and Berlin’s embassies make it ideal for politicians and ambassadors, and its clientele mark it as an international meeting spot for dignitaries and leisure-seekers alike. But enough people-watching: we’re shown to our room, which is vast and has an impressive view of the Brandenburg
Gate. Our lobby (yes!) leads to a living area, complete with three sets of windows overlooking the square below. It’s no coincidence the Adlon attracts VIPS: Michael Jackson stayed on the floor above, as did Queen Elizabeth II, whose room (with bulletproofglass windows) was then renamed ‘the Royal Suite’; Barack Obama stayed there, too. We pause to Instagram the view, then freshen up, leave our complimentary miniature chocolate Brandenburg Gate and bottle of Moët on ice and head out for lunch at the Reichstag. We waddle around the Tiergarten and take a sobering walk through the breathtaking Jewish Memorial, both a stone’s throw from our stay, and return ready for hearty bowls of ramen at Takumi NINE Sapporo. While traipsing back to the Adlon we accidentally stumble upon Vincent, the most popular piano bar on the river Spree – cocktails ensue. On Saturday I have to work, but my sister enjoys the hotel. She finds the gym empty, allowing her a lengthy workout to burn off last night’s Veuve Clicquot, before a swim and a snooze. Dinner plans remain unmade, but luckily the concierge seamlessly reserves a two-hour table at hip hangout Crackers. In gact, it’s so hip it’s well-hidden and we arrive late, but our meal of lamb’s lettuce (a must order), lamb chops, feather-blade beef and dumplings is spectacular. After, we nab the last sofa near the pianist in the hotel lobby to listen in on soulful John Legend covers, as patrons sip signature Adlon cocktails. I order a sweet rum, lime, vanilla and passionfruit ‘Epilogue’; (sold entirely on its Caribbean reverie of a description) and a slice of cake from the dessert counter, then we discuss our last day. Before leaving, we take a 30,000-step walk, starting at the hotel, through the markets to Alexanderplatz, before we stop at gastropub St Bart, in Kreuzberg. Afterwards we take a cold, wet meander along the Berlin Wall to Schulz Hotel and cab it back to the Adlon. This leaves us time to defrost in the spa before it’s time to bid Auf Wiedersehen to the ladies in red. We wish we’d had more time to experience the relaxation room by the swimming pool, the Adlon Spa and the state-of-theart gym, all set in the hotel’s basement. A few days later we see on Instagram that Hollywood starlet Jessica Chastain is taking videos of the Brandenburg Gate from…our room. Jealous? Us? Nein. Well, a little. But, also happy, that we too experienced – undoubtedly – the best hotel in Berlin. The Adlon has 307 spacious rooms and 78 lavish suites, three restaurants (one of which was awarded two Michelin stars), two bars, 15 meeting and event rooms plus the grand ballroom. Rates can be found online at www. kempinski.com/en/berlin/hotel-adlon
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A HAVEN IN THE HEART OF MANAMA While staying at Bahrain’s latest boutique five-star opening, The Merchant House, ANDREW COLES finds it delivers exotic Arabian intrigue in the best possible way.
The unfamiliar chant rings out softly through the early morning air, and for a moment in my slumber, I lose track of where I am. It’s a calm confusion, though. An ethereal calling in a dream, perhaps. But too much cognitive power is required too early in the morning to decipher it, so off to sleep again I drift. Of course, it was the call to prayer from a nearby mosque, and a breakfast discussion revealed that I wasn’t the only one to be gently woken by its softly spoken tune. How exotic. I’d arrived in Manama, the capital of the Kingdom of Bahrain, the previous night. And as I sat in The Merchant House’s openair rooftop Indigo restaurant nibbling on dates and freshly sliced fruit with warm gulf air caressing my face, I felt that spark of being on a real travel adventure. To my left I could just catch the top of the mosque’s minaret sprouting above the buzzing souk, and to my right, a beige coloured cityscape interspersed with vast glass towers disappeared into the haze. I felt like Lawrence of Arabia himself. My imbued sense of intrepidness had no solid foundation, mind you. We’d been pampered for six hours in Gulf Air’s Falcon Gold business class on our flight from Heathrow, and The Merchant House had sent their driver to collect us in a gleaming Maserati. And exploring the labyrinthine Bab el-Bahrain souk would have to wait until after my morning spa appointment. But then, I promised myself, I’d get to the part about being intrepid. The other big, Western-friendly cities of the region are often criticised for being mere facsimiles of each other, but Manama feels more genuine. And after just a few steps through the door of The Merchant House, it becomes apparent that this five-star boutique hotel isn’t a facsimile of anything. Bold, brash colours abound, offset against clean whites and exposed concrete. And art, lots of art. The graffitied central column by local street artist Mustafa Halwachi steals and holds your attention, but that largescale work is just the beginning. There are some 995 original works hanging throughout the hotel, with around 80 per cent by local Bahraini artists. There are some internationally famous names, too, including a Hirst in a hallway and originals by Gauguin and Warhol in two of the suites. The big names aren’t in prominent places or the most expensive rooms, either. It’s purely a lucky-dip on check-in; there’s a onein-46 chance you’ll stay in what’s unofficially known as the ‘Warhol Suite’. In TATE Modern these works come with the expectation of appreciation, but here, spotting a Gauguin in the wild adds the element of surprise. Everywhere you turn on all of the nine floors there are visual treats to absorb, and I find myself barely resisting the temptation to ask other guests for a peek at what’s hanging in their rooms. Hotel Manager Justin Kim tells us that it took 10 painful days to place and hang the hotel’s collection. Local craftsmen were commissioned to design and build the furniture, and each suite has a statement chair trimmed with Josef Frank fabrics. Founder
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of the parent company and creative lead, Gordon Campbell Gray, worked closely with the architects and interior design team, and even sketched the patterns of the carpets himself. The contiguous islands of Bahrain are just 11 miles wide and 31 long; so, back in the Maserati and after ditching the city limits, we soon reached the desert proper. A wind is whipping up small sandstorms and blowing them across the road, and the inhospitable nature of the ruler-flat landscape is juxtaposed against the luxury we’ve just come from. The unique hydrogeology of Bahrain, however, explains why this desert has been continually inhabited since at least 2000 BC, when it was known as Dilmun. The name Bahrain translates to ‘the two seas’, and plentiful access to fresh groundwater makes life here possible. For the Mesopotamians it marked the halfway stop on the Bronze Age trading route to Oman, and its position as a strategic port has been valued ever since. The ancient Greeks referred to Bahrain as Tylos, centre of pearl trading. As it happens, we’re next traversing the desert to a marina, where we’ll boat offshore to try our luck diving for pearls in the teal-shaded gulf. For centuries, the development of Bahrain was directly attributable to its pearl industry, which collapsed overnight with the Japanese invention of the cultured pearl in 1928. However, large reserves of a certain black liquid were made at about the same time, and the Bahrainis did alright from that… Stories abound of a local man who unearthed a perfectly formed natural pearl worth £20,000 just the other week, and pearl-fever quickly engulfs our small group. We are not quite as lucky and step ashore empty-handed, but the thrill provides plenty of dinnertime chat that evening. Back at The Merchant House, in the rooftop Indigo restaurant, head chef Rob Shipman (recently of Nobu Shoreditch) has devised a continually evolving menu which takes inspiration from his extensive global career all mixed up with traditional Bahraini dishes. An entrée of beef carpaccio, a main of local sautéed hamour with a crispy sesame crust, and dessert of mixed berries drizzled with elderflower zabaione is a perfectly eclectic finale to my Arabian adventure. Bahrain holds a curiously unique place among Gulf countries. It is simultaneously authentic, yet surprisingly liberal. You could join local worshippers at the gargantuan Al Fateh Grand Mosque by afternoon, and bar-hop through the chic Block 338 district by night. We did. To base your own Arabian adventure from The Merchant House is to acknowledge that intrepid travel and learning can indeed sit happily alongside self-indulgence. They are not mutually exclusive, as proved by my gentle alarm that morning. The Merchant House www.campbellgrayhotels.com/merchant-house-bahrain Gulf Air - www.gulfair.com
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Photos: Andrew Coles
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ADVERTORIAL
Where: The Hurlingham Park, Fulham Address: Broomhouse Lane, SW6 3DP CHESTERTONS POLO IN THE PARK Chestertons Polo in the Park is an annual three-day polo tournament that takes place in June at Hurlingham Park, Fulham. The round-robin style tournament is played under the HPA-endorsed City Polo rules, developed to maximise spectator enjoyment. Chestertons Polo in the Park is owned and managed by Sportgate International, an international event management and sports marketing agency; founded in 2014 by a team of experienced sports marketing professionals, Sportgate International now owns events and consults to companies and rights holders who require sponsorship and event management expertise. CHESTERTONS Chestertons is one of London’s oldest and most respected estate agencies, with a large network of branches across London as well as international offices covering five continents. Specialising in residential sales and lettings, Chestertons offers clients a full range of services including estate agency, property management, professional valuations, investment advice, refurbishment and property sourcing. Chestertons is also regarded as one of the most socially active agencies, having developed a comprehensive charitable programme which raises money for various charities and saw it becoming the first agency ever to be awarded the Platinum Award for Payroll Giving. It is also a generous supporter of community projects and cultural institutions across London, including the Royal Academy of Arts, the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra, Women’s and Disability cricket at Middlesex CCC, the Dog’s Trust’s Lets with Pets scheme and Make Music Day. For more information on the wide range of professional services and advice Chestertons offers, as well as its social programme please visit www.chestertons.com
THE ULTIMATE SUMMER CELEBRATION
London’s first event of the summer season returns to Hurlingham Park, Fulham to host its 10th birthday. Kicking off the change in seasons with an ultimate three-day summer celebration, Chestertons Polo in the Park takes over the capital’s social calendar on 7–9 June 2019. One of the biggest social sporting events of the summer, Chestertons Polo in the Park is one of the largest and most popular polo tournaments in Europe, combining world-class sport in the perfect setting of sunny champagne gardens with fantastic food and music. The three-day sporting spectacle has firmly established itself as one of the most anticipated and sought-after events in South West London. Perfect for polo fanatics and social enthusiasts in equal measure, the rules have been uniquely simplified so that newcomers will be able to follow the fast and furious polo without needing any prior knowledge of the game. International Day, Friday 7 June, is set to be an actionpacked opening day featuring the Flannels England Polo Team as they take to the hallowed turf against a rival country in a thrilling international match to kick start the tournament. Ladies Day presented by Lancaster, Saturday 8 June, provides the perfect excuse to dress up and enjoy a day out with your closest friends, watching quality sporting action while sipping champagne in the sun. Finals Family Funday, Sunday 9 June, rounds off the weekend with a world-class finale match to crown the tournament champions. A day for all the family where parents can watch on from London’s best cocktail bars or the Champagne Lanson garden while the children are entertained at the Little Hooves Kids’ Club and stampede onto the Sharky & George Pitch Invasion. Over the course of three days, teams representing six different cities from around the world will be taking part in the hotly contested polo tournament. Off the pitch there’s plenty to see and do all weekend with the Grazing Paddock hosting top restaurants and delicious street food, the Champagne Lanson Garden returns alongside the iconic Mahiki pineapples, Slingsby Cocktail Bar and Fever-Tree Garden. Splash out in the Luxury Shopping Village housing, and on Sunday bring the whole family to enjoy our Little Hooves Kids Club and Sharky & George Pitch Invasion. For more information and to book tickets PAGE 31
www.polointheparklondon.com
KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
FRUIT, FLOWERS AND CREATURES FROM THE DEEP ADAM JACOT DE BOINOD takes in the sights, sounds and scents of Portuguese isle Madeira
First impressions are often so telling. Minutes from Madeira Airport (named for native son Cristiano Ronaldo) I could already sense the scale of the island’s mountainous peaks and craggy cliffs. I saw houses surrounded by blazing bougainvillea and banana leaves, leaving me little clues as to what to expect from my stay here. The high-rise buildings are mercifully few and up in the hills I can spot villages with terracotta roofs dotted amid the patchwork of the terraced cultivation carved out of the mountainside. Soon after arriving in the capital Funchal, I stumbled across the famous ‘Mercado dos Lavradores’, where more sensory overloading awaited. Here, locals thrust slices of exotic fruits into my hand, including prickly pears, loquats, paw paws and durians, as well as four types of passion fruit, three of which I had never had before: orange, tomato and banana, the last being truly succulent and delicious. If you want to get a sense of how colourful the island can be, visit during May for the ‘Festa da Flor’ (flower festival), when flower sellers in distinctive red- and yellow-striped skirts truly stand out. It’s a highlight of Madeira’s calendar and includes a children’s parade in which each child carries a single flower to put in a ‘Wall of Hope’ calling for peace in the world. Peaceful is certainly one of many attributes to describe the locals, as well as open and easygoing. Street cobblers painstakingly tidy mosaic paving made from the island’s volcanic stone, women called ‘bordadeiras’ make intricate embroidery, wicker is fashioned in the nearby village of Camacha and tobogganists have a famous touristic downhill ritual here. Beyond Funchal’s main promenade is the magnificent salmon-pink edifice, known as Belmond Reid’s Palace where I was lucky enough to stay. Founded by a Scotsman called William Reid, it belongs to an elite list of the world’s glamorous historic grand hotels, alongside London’s Ritz, Istanbul’s Pera Palace and Havana’s Nacional. It’s steeped in history and has
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hosted many distinguished guests such as George Bernard Shaw, Churchill and Thatcher. There are common rooms on several floors and Max Römer’s paintings of Madeira are displayed along the corridors. Jazz was played one evening in the bar and a chamber orchestra performed in the ballroom the next. The ‘done thing’ (which we did) is to take high tea on the ‘balcony’ overlooking the amazing garden below. In stark contrast to the neatness of the upper swimming pools is the wild below reached by steps or a lift within a tower, beside nautical pennants of the clientele’s most popular nations. It took me down to the seashore and to a ‘tidal pool’ that is refilled daily by the ocean. A visual delight. A fantastic viewpoint. A creative marriage of design and nature as it offered me a tailormade experience to lie down and snack, cocooned amid the many layers of rock. With catamaran-hire company Atlantic Pearl I took to water to see whales, dolphins and turtles. My host and the skipper each welcome me warmly and displayed a passionate knowledge of the mammals we’d spy. It’s best to go when the sea is calm as it can get quite choppy, but even so I saw two whales – a lifeenhancing experience. From the wonders of the deep to the Design Centre Nini Andrade Silva by 7 Funcahl’s main promenade. Set high up on a second floor, this is a panoramic restaurant, both stylish and contemporary – a cool backdrop to its engaging staff. With jazz tickling my ears and plump cushions propping me up, dinner delighted all senses. Close to the airport and set beneath the city’s western escarpment, was my next place to stay, the Quinta Jardins do Lago. This newly converted hotel has harmoniously embellished its original manor house with recent extensions housing antiques, including the original sideboard that belonged to General Beresford, who was in residence having risen to fame in
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the Napoleonic Wars. It’s to be found in the soothingly powderblue-hued dining room. In my room, there were seascape oil paintings, a bathroom with a handsome marble floor and a balcony and verandah that made it feel like the private house it once was. The hotel gardens have trees with names such as ‘Bunya Bunya’, ‘False Spanish Cork Oak’ and ’Turpentine’; palm trees with names such as ‘Chinese Fan’, ‘Pigmy Date’ and ‘Chinese Windmill’; and plants with fibrous stems such as ‘Giant White Bird of Paradise’, ‘Dragon Tree’, ‘Elephant Foot Tree’. It was the setting for breakfast, by the ‘Jade Room’ and beside an impressive 16th-century ceramic wall panel. Tucked up in my wicker chair, gazing out over the lovely garden and chirping birds, I became increasingly reluctant to return to London. The Portuguese phrase ‘viajar na maionese’, literally to travel in the mayonnaise, which means ‘to live in a dream world’ summed up my experience of the leisurely charm of Madeira perfectly. Belmond Reid’s Palace: www.reidspalace.com Atlantic Pearl: www.atlanticpearl-catamaran.com Design Centre Nini Andrade Silva: www.ninidesigncentre.com Quinta Jardins do Lago: www.jardinsdolago.com Classic Collection Holidays (0800 047 1064; classic-collection.co.uk) offers three nights at Quinta Jardins do Lago and three nights at Belmond Reid’s Palace from £1,398 a person. The price is based on two sharing, on a bed and breakfast basis, with all private transfers or car hire, and return flights from London Gatwick. Adam had further support from www.gatwickexpress.com and www. holidayextras.co.uk (who offer airport lounges at all major UK airports and many international destinations).
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KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
PECKISH IN PORTUGAL
Photos: Lumiares Hotel - Vasco Célio Boubou’s restaurant – Francisco Nogueira
MADÉVI DAILLY indulges her inner glutton in Lisbon Is it the steepness of the hills? The ubiquitous stacks of sardine tins in shop windows? The alluring wobble of custard tarts? Whatever the reason, a visit to Lisbon never fails to make one feel a little, well, hungry. Thankfully, the Portuguese capital – that glorious photogenic jumble of ramshackle streets, elegant plazas, faded azulejo tiles and boundary-pushing street art – has the soul of a glutton. I’ve put my bags down at the Lumiares Hotel & Spa, a boutique hotel at the top of the Bairro Alto hill. Quiet by day, the bohemian neighbourhood comes alive in the evenings, when tables and revellers spill out from hole-in-the-wall tavernas onto the cobbled lanes. The Lumiares has taken its inspiration from this buzzy urban grid, distilling its character into bold geometric floor tiles and textured wall hangings. Downstairs, the glassfronted Mercado café serves casual takes on Portuguese petiscos: codfish fritters, black pudding with apple, or hearty octopus rice. Upstairs, it’s hard to resist the pull of rooftop hotspot Lumni, where vistas put the nearby miradouro (view point) to shame. Chef João Silva is a fan of the farm-to-table approach, and it shows: every dish is an artful ode to just-picked Portuguese produce. For something more traditional, stroll down the hill to Zé Varunca, a blink-and-you’ll miss it spot famed for its hearty Alentejo cuisine. The Varunca family’s been rustling up regional dishes since 1981, and doesn’t mess around: portions are big, flavours bold, and acorn-fed black pig gets star billing. Try migas, a specialty made from leftover bread, garlic and olive oil. Here, for carb-lovers, it’s loaded into a fresh loaf and topped with slow-cooked ribs. A helping of sericaia comes topped with a sugar plum and a drizzle of syrup – a cloud-like egg pudding. Closer to the river, the glass-and-steel Mercado da Ribeira houses the Time Out Market, a popular food hall arguably responsible for Lisbon’s culinary renaissance. It’s just the thing if you’re short on time: you’ll find the city’s most tempting gourmet haunts under one roof. Sample O Prego da Peixaria’s legendary steak sandwich (a surprise hit from a much-loved seafood restaurant), cooked-to-order bites from Croqueteria, or two-star chef Henrique Sá Pessoa’s 64-degree egg. Take a gander at the counters circling the main hall, too. Balcão da Esquina keeps things simple with sea-fresh fare: feast on sweet Setúbal oysters, salt cod, and razor clams in a buttery broth – the kind that just begs to be mopped up with a slice of bread. You could round things off with a scoop or two from Santini’s stall, though it’s worth the walk to the gelato masters’ retro parlour in Chiado, if only for a breather. Flavours change with the seasons, but the subtly bitter walnut number never disappoints. My tour ends with a glass of digestif at historic A Ginjinha, just steps from Rossio Square. The sweet cherry liqueur is said to cure all ills – just the thing to toast a glutton’s safari with.
THREE MORE TO TRY... BOUBOU’S Tucked away on a quiet side street near Lisbon’s charming botanical garden, this Instagram-friendly restaurant is a favourite with ladies who lunch. There’s nothing chi-chi about the food, though. Grab a table in the inner patio, if you can, to graze on modern Portuguese fare: rabbit croquetas with mustard seed, say, or garlicky gambas in a zesty kafir butter. Rua Monte Olivete 32A, 1200-279, Lisbon | boubous.com MEAT ME This elegant new Baixa spot sets the tone with a Mad Menchic mezzanine bar and pink marble tables. The clue’s in the name: the menu’s all about rare-breed, slow-aged meat with impeccable provenance. Start with a melt-in-the-mouth carpaccio topped with nutty slivers of Azores cheese. The Iberico pork tomahawk, a cut unique to chef Tomás Pires, is simply seared and served with rice steeped in red Vinho Verde and flecked with morcilla – utterly addictive. Largo Picadeiro 8A, 1200-027 | Meatme.pt PICAMIOLOS Nose-to-tail eating make its grand Lisbon entrance at pareddown Picamiolos. Dressed with oversized animal head sculptures, the dining room’s rather austere, but there’s plenty to delight on the plate. The crunch of battered squid and sweet green beans plays beautifully against delicate lard petals. Even the chocolate mousse comes scattered with bacon crumble for an irresistible savoury hit. Rua do Corpo Santo 2, 1200-130
The Lumiares Hotel & Spa - Rua do Diário de Notícias 142, 1200-146, Lisbon | thelumiares.com Zé Varunca - Travessa das Mercês 16, 1200-269, Lisbon Zevarunca.com Time Out Market | Avenida 24 de Julho, 1200-479, Lisbon timeoutmarket.com Santini - Rua do Carmo 9, 1200-093 Lisbon | santini.pt A Ginjinha - Largo São Domingos 8, 1100-201, Lisbon
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Shoulder season in the Caribbean is an unexpected delight, and there’s a special element of schadenfreude when you are scooping out ripe passionfruit in a bikini, while your friends in greyer parts of the world are tugging on gloves, tucking in scarves, and turtling down into coats.’
NOCHES AZULES: BLUE NIGHTS IN QUINTANA ROO JOY HUI LIN finds a hedonistic cultural playground… Treading on the white sands of Playacar during golden hour, I thought to myself, ‘Well, I don’t hate this,’ before I plunged into the sea for a sunset swim. It was the understatement of the season. Framed by wind-blown palms with violet and rose light painting over the daytime Caribbean blues, I had no idea that within a week I’d etch Quintana Roo on my heart and always plan to return. It was a fellow Californian writer who first put Quintana Roo on my subconscious map: Joan Didion, who named her daughter after this culturally rich, jungled-festooned area along the eastern coast of Mexico. North Americans have long been clued in on this coastal spot since the beach of Playa Carmen wins ‘one of the best beaches in the world’ frequently. Shoulder season in the Caribbean is an unexpected delight, and there’s a special element of schadenfreude when you are scooping out ripe passionfruit in a bikini, while your friends in greyer parts of the world are tugging on gloves, tucking in scarves, and turtling down into coats. The balmy air combined with on-point mixology creates a hypnotic kind of happiness. I shamelessly swilled three glasses of fresh pineapple and Chaya cocktails scented with local floral and anise-seed liqueur and asked myself, ‘What is this paradise and how do I stay here forever?’ It’s entirely possible that all the tropical fruits here taste like the physical form of sunlight. The Wine & Food Festival (actually a series of festivals thrown throughout the year in different parts of Mexico) hosts a Quintana Roo series on and around Día de Los Muertos (the Day of the Dead), which has become a much more popular spectacle thanks to a certain Englishman named James Bond. Indeed,
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the riotous parade opening scene in Skyfall, released in 2015, changed the sentiment around the tradition and its rituals, and Mexico is embracing this opportunity to introduce its wonders to a global audience. The line-up of the Wine & Food festival week features sought-after Mexican chefs and mixologists demonstrating their playful mastery with marvellous dishes and inventive drinks every night – and, some days – on yachts. Each event throughout the year includes foreign guest chefs, making the festival week cosmopolitan in the best way. At Mexico Lindo Cooking School, the secrets of the Mexican kitchen were laid bare by chef Alejandra Kauachi, and after a nottoo-arduous session with liberal amounts of a brioche-like pan de muerto and cups of Mexican hot-chocolate, I became aware that improving my own cooking techniques for Mexican cuisine could be a dazzling dinner-party game-changer. At the opulent Star Chefs of Quintana Roo dinner, a constellation of lights framed each nighttime view, the paradoxically careless and studied elegance of the Rosewood Mayakoba. While nearby Tulum is known for its bohemian luxury scene, Mayakoba is quickly becoming the destination for the set who prefers their stay to be a little less bohemian and a lot more high-end. The Rosewood Mayakoba, one of the festival’s event hosts, boasts of an entire bouquet of suite types, with offerings from private residences to oceanview penthouses. Its global-luxury design stays relatively minimalist and understated, but the distinctive flora and animal life reminds you you’re in the
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Yucatán Peninsula. Passing by squat coatimundi with their black masks and curious eyes on your way to a morning swim is a peculiar and unforgettable sight. My other days were full envy-inducing escapades, from dipping into cinematic turquoise waters in ‘cenotes’ (underground lakes) to dancing along with a parade for Día de Los Muertos. With so much fun to be had, I didn’t even get to investigate the ruins of Tulum, but I thought to myself, ‘next time,’ with a gleam in my eye, too stuffed with voluptuous delights, both literally and figuratively, for any more indulging, but promising myself I would return for more adventures. After the last evening’s 10-course festivities, paired with a stellar showing of Mexican wines from Casa Madero – the oldest winery on the North American continent – I asked my friend who regularly travels here if Mexico has a saying like la dolce vita or pura vida as Italians and Costa Ricans say. She paused, thought for a moment, and said, ‘Mexico, lindo y querido’: Mexico, beautiful and beloved. Wine & Food Festival: www.facebook.com/pg/WineFoodMX/events (Events can be purchased separately or as multi-day passes) Rosewood Mayakoba: Carretera. Federal Cancún-Playa del Carmen, KM 298 Solidaridad, Q. Roo, CP 77710 Mexico Mexico Lindo Cooking: Carretera Ruta de los Cenotes, KM 6.2, 77580 Puerto Morelos, Q.R., Mexico And, for a great cultural display of Day of the Dead: Xcaret Park, Carretera Chetúmal-Puerto Juárez, KM 282, Solidaridad, 77710 Playa del Carmen, Q.R., Mexico
KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
WHATEVER FLOATS YOUR BOAT SARAH RODRIGUES visits Porto Montenegro and finds an extravagantly luxurious stay within easy reach of natural wonders and medieval towns
Rapidly emerging as a rival to Monaco, Porto Montenegro is a hub of dazzling superyachts, a playground for squillionaires. Established just 10 years ago, the 450-berth resort is set for rapid expansion over the next few years, which will guarantee its position as the only conceivable destination for those seeking ultra-luxury in Eastern Europe. It’s not necessarily the destiny that one may have foreseen for a military base but, back in 2007, Canadian mogul Peter Munk saw deep-water potential in the area and, with financial input from various sources, created Porto Montenegro; before Munk’s death last year, it had become the largest private-sector investment in the country. Nods to the area’s military past aren’t absent, even if they’re somewhat swamped by the glitziness of upscale restaurants and bars, among which high-end boutiques, peopled by blankfaced mannequins, are dotted. The crane used, historically, to transport naval boats, juts from the rows of improbably huge vessels, beloved by locals and fondly referred to as ‘our Eiffel Tower.’ Elsewhere, a submarine used by the former Yugoslavia now houses a museum of naval heritage.
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A sea-based destination can hardly do itself justice without some extraordinary number of ‘days of sunshine’ to lay claim to: here, that number is 281. At the Regent Porto Montenegro, these are celebrated with open-air spaces hosting a vibrant events scene, and the infinity pool area, mirror-finished and flanked by palm trees, boasts a strikingly sculptural ‘frame’ at its centre; it’s no surprise to learn that this is a hashtag-favourite haunt of influencers, even were it not for the multiplicity of day-beds on which to lounge fetchingly, cocktail in hand. The area’s position and legacy are also celebrated at the hotel in several design elements, such as the central display of glass in the lobby, a kind of driftwood/ Murano-glass hybrid, suspended above rippled blue carpet, evoking the patterns of tides on sand. In my room, the nautical theme is executed with subtlety, with rounded, rope-trimmed mirrors, a rectangle of canvas suspended, sail-like, above my bed, and a palette combining blues with muted golds and neutrals: it’s a decor that allows the view from the balcony to – quite deservedly – do the talking. With so many acknowledgments of Porto Montenegro’s
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incredible location, it’s impossible to not want to explore beyond the port’s limits and into the surrounding landscape, which looms bewitchingly and craggily above and around the glossy port. Towering peaks of dark limestone fold in and over one another; carpeted thickly with forestry, they practically siren-song your walking boots out of your luggage and onto your feet. And even if the floating playgrounds lining the jetties are beyond one’s means, a boat trip to admire the landscape from the vantage point of the water and access other areas is a must. Sandwiched between peaks and water, Kotor is reminiscent of Norwegian fjords and has been named as one of UNESCO’s 25 most beautiful bays in the world. It’s becoming an increasingly popular cruise ship destination: this summer it’s estimated 550 will dock, an increase of 30 per cent on last year. Our day trip coincides with the arrival of one such beast; its vastness even more easily fathomed against the backdrop of mountains, which it manages, somehow, to diminish. Fans of Dubrovnik’s medieval walls and cobbled streets can’t fail to be charmed by Kotor; indeed, if you are visiting one, then the other is perfectly accessible as a day trip. Comparisons are made on shaky ground when it comes to local pride – our guide tells us, Kotor was one of the most fortified cities on the Adriatic coast and its city walls span an impressive 4.5 kilometres, more than twice as long as those of Dubrovnik. I admire both the charmingly wonky doorways and staunchly impressive ones, the 1602 clock tower and the main square’s obelisk and pillar of shame (against which those who had committed some fault were made to stand holding a board stating the nature of their wrongdoing). It’s a pleasure simply to walk these narrow medieval streets, taking in the arched ceilings of shops, the plumply satisfied stray cats and the clutch of churches and palaces, all built in a bleached out, faintly golden terracotta. The best experience comes by way of paying €8 to access the city walls; a climb which unveils an ever-more enchanting view at every level, beginning with the close-up clusters of tiled rooftops and gradually pulling back to reveal the individual squares and streets, the mesmerising blue of the bay and the activity of far-distant people on the promenades – all against that majestically stark mountain backdrop. A little further along the coastal road from Porto Montenegro, Perast is home to one of the area’s best restaurants, Conte. While waiting for our huge seafood platters to arrive, we nip next door to the 17th-century church of St Nicholas; across the water and accessible by boat lies the blue-domed church of St Mary of the Rock, an almost entirely man-made island created after the discovery by some fishermen of the image of the Virgin Mary in 1452. The tiny Orthodox chapel built on the site was later replaced by a Catholic one by the Venetians who ruled the area and in a custom known as fašinada locals still throw rocks into the water every 22 July, the date on which the religious image is believed to have been sighted. Pleasures of a far more earthly nature await us at Conte, where our seafood platters are huge, delicious and swiftly devoured. The quality cuisine for which the restaurant is well known doesn’t require (but certainly isn’t done any harm by) a selection of local wines. Wine production in Montenegro comes by way of around 65 wineries, a fact little known outside of the country, since export is kept to a minimum. Even if you are flying in and out of Tivat, located just a few minutes’ drive from Porto Montenegro, it’s worth heading in the direction of Podgorica for a day, if only to visit Šipčanik wine cellar, operated by Montenegro’s biggest wine producer, Plantaže. A former secret underground aircraft hangar carved into the cliffs, it was partially destroyed by NATO bombing in 1999 and abandoned; its 356m-long tunnel now houses rows of oak barrels, filled with intensely quaffable and incredibly affordable wines. We stock up for as little as €3 a bottle on reds and whites, including a rich, fruity herbal Vranac, which is indigenous to the region. Back at the Regent, the sunset creates a spectacle to
‘Towering peaks of dark limestone fold in and over one another; carpeted thickly with forestry, they practically siren-song your walking boots out of your luggage and onto your feet.’ precede a meal in the Murano Restaurant. Here, Montenegro’s historical links with Venice are celebrated by way of a menu that combines fresh seafood and locally sourced produce, eaten in an opulent Italianate space over which huge theatre-mask inspired artworks preside. Nightcaps – for who can resist one, even on a pleasantly sated stomach? – are taken in the relaxing Library Bar, a cocoon of deep reds and dark woods, lined with shelves housing ancient books and curios. Back under the angled canvas sail of my wide, white bed, a danger of a different sort exists: were it not for the prospect of the breakfast menu’s truffle eggs the following morning (be warned, once sampled, all other breakfasts will be forever ruined), I may still be sleeping there now. Price for a Superior Room on a bed and breakfast basis starts from £165 a night. Price includes accommodation for two, access to the Spa and breakfast. www.regenthotels.com/regent-portomontenegro
TAP Air Portugal has a daily departure to Fortaleza from London City, Heathrow, Gatwick and Manchester via Lisbon. Prices start at £522 one way including all taxes and surcharges. For further information, visit www.flytap.com or call 0345 601 0932 Discover two destinations for the price of one with TAP’s Portugal Stopover Programme, which enables passengers travelling to TAP’s long-haul destinations to stop off for up to five nights in Lisbon or Porto at no extra cost.
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KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
ADVERTORIAL
‘On the Friday evening the Alexandrides family were joined by their honoured guests beneath the Acropolis for a candlelit dinner. The soundtrack of the evening starred the mesmerising operatic vocals of Christina Poulitsi beneath the Ancient Greek Landmark, before guests hit the dancefloor.’
EVA & YANNIS ALEXANDRIDES CELEBRATE THEIR VOW RENEWAL 111SKIN founders celebrate years of love, friendship and marriage with spectacular yet intimate weekend-long celebrations in the Athens Riviera, surrounded by friends and family 111SKIN co-founders – renowned Cosmetic Surgeon Dr Yannis Alexandrides and his beautiful wife, the inspiring businesswoman Eva Alexandrides – hosted a series of intimate events attended by close family and loving friends from Friday 31 June to Sunday 2 June 2019. Eva and Yannis took the opportunity to mark their longstanding happy and loving marriage at their home-away-from-home, the sun-drenched Athens Riviera. Yannis (of Greek nationality) looked on lovingly at his Bulgarian wife of 15 years throughout the weekend-long series of events as they marked this special moment in their lives. On the Friday evening the Alexandrides family were joined by their honoured guests beneath the Acropolis for a candlelit dinner. The soundtrack of the evening starred the mesmerising operatic vocals of Christina Poulitsi beneath the Ancient Greek Landmark, before guests hit the dancefloor. The guestlist of close friends and family included Viscountess Emma Weymouth,
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couture fashion designer Celia Kritharioti and hospitality magnate Richard Caring and his wife Patricia. It was none other than Celia’s mastery behind the whimsical gowns Eva wore throughout the weekend. Celia is famed as the creator and owner of the oldest Greek Fashion House, established in 1906, and these beautiful pieces were bespoke down to the final detail. And each piece is lovingly hand-crafted by couturiers of Greek origin, which undoubtedly added to the sentimentality of the proceedings for Eva. Kritharioti is pinpointed in Vanity Fair UK as one of six couturiers to watch worldwide: ‘Beautifully feminine and embellished concoctions from this couturier to the stars’, noted by Annabel Davison, senior editor at Vanity Fair covering jewellery and couture.Loyal supporters include Jennifer Lopez, Lady Gaga, Candice Swanepoel, Cindy Crawford, Kim Kardashian, as well as Kritharioti’s close friend, deputy editor of British Vogue, Sarah Harris. Kritharioti is also very much known
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for her reputation as the only Greek couture designer to have a presence at Paris Couture Week, amid esteemed brands such as Ralph & Russo, Christian Dior, Versace and Chanel, among others. Following a day of recovery in the sunshine at the Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel, the schedule of celebrations peaked as the vows were renewed. Guests gathered in a venue named ‘The Island Private House’, located high above the glittering Athens Riviera. Talented events planner Anjie Georgakopoulou transformed the location into Eva’s vision: a whimsical wonderland hung with lavender and pastel floral arrangements provided by florist Studio 7. As guests arrived, evidently in awe of their surroundings, they waited with bated breath in the Greek sunshine. Eva walked down the aisle to join her husband and renew the vows they’d originally made 15 years prior, and to have their union blessed by a Christian priest. Emotions were high as guests made their way to a decadent sit-down dinner beneath the stars. As celebrations moved to the dancefloor, guests were treated to the lyrical talents of Indian superstar Kanika Kapoor, followed swiftly by a surprise fireworks display. Unsurprisingly, it was Eva and Yannis who were the last ones standing, known for their unwavering energy and zest for life. Guests were treated to an edit of 111SKIN Master-Masking cult favourite products, including the Rose Gold Radiance Facial Treatment Mask, as well as personalised Champagne sets. Over 12 years ago Dr Yannis channelled his extensive surgical expertise to create 111SKIN’s first product – our Y Theorem Repair Serum – to promote a quick recovery for his patients following clinical procedures. Recognising the superb quality and sensational results of her husband’s serum, Eva wanted to share it with the world. From there, the brand was born. 111Skin now spans five ranges with over 40 products, and to this day remains an independent, family-owned company dedicated to producing superior, science-led skincare. PAGE 41
KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
‘The furore caused by Californian wines usurping the superior French wines in taste, by the experts themselves (unbeknownst to them, of course), led to widespread whispers, which effectively put the Americans on the wine map.’
SPA & AWAY
The devil really is in the details, SARAH RODRIGUES discovers on a visit to the Gainsborough Bath Spa. Soaring ceilings, huge windows, stately chandeliers and vast foyers: things on a grand scale often form the hallmarks of luxury accommodation – but sometimes it’s the little things that make a difference. The Gainsborough Bath Spa lacks for nothing in the way of grandeur. Originally built in the 1800s and occupying two GradeII-listed buildings with impressive facades, it is the only hotel in this World Heritage Site to have direct access to the warm mineral waters for which Bath is famed. It’s also home to the prestigious three AA Rosette-awarded Dan Moon restaurant. Nevertheless, during my stay, it’s the small things that catch my attention: a gift of wildflower seeds in vintage packaging intended for the preservation of bees and a Shakespeare sonnet left on my pillow at turn-down, along with fresh lavender and a calming facial mist. When I arrive at the spa for a rose facial and massage, there’s a selection of ‘ready readers’ by the consent form that needs to be signed – because who takes their glasses to the spa? And how many times have I been caught, robed and slippered, squinting uncertainly at the question of whether or not I am currently breastfeeding? A welcoming drink is whisked in and poured in front of me with the alchemical nous of an apothecarist. A cold, lavenderinfused face cloth is presented, and crystalline salt granules are scooped up into a bag. How do I want to feel? Relaxed, invigorated, clear-headed? My apothecarist – for such she now is, in my eyes – pulls out a selection of essential oils and I inhale each one deeply before selecting my preferred two. These are used to ‘flavour’ my salt, which I can take with me into the steam room and continue to use at home for up to two weeks afterwards.
Attention to detail is finely threaded, not only into the service, but into a multitude of other aspects of a stay at the Gainsborough Bath Spa. Named after illustrious artist Sir Thomas Gainsborough, who lived in the city in the latter half of the 18th century and was a key figure in its glittering social scene, this connection is given a modern expression by way of artworks, specially created by students selected by the from Bath Spa University, on display in the hotel’s public spaces. Columns and mosaics weave in references to a Roman past; indeed, when its former incarnation, the Royal United Hospital, was being excavated in 1864, rooms belonging to an ancient Roman spa complex were unearthed, including the remains of a 4th-century mosaic. The spa circuit, which moves between ice baths, saunas and pools of varying temperatures, includes a break for a Georgian confection of hot chocolate spiced with cinnamon, chilli and cardamom. The rooms, equipped with every modern convenience and luxury as they are (hello, Nespresso machine and criminally comfortable bed) have the colour schemes of Georgian times in mind, marrying dark period-style furnishings with deep blue-greys and toile-de-jouy accents. Admittedly, not everyone will geek out over such quaint details. But, while I could rhapsodise over the grander details of my stay in this haven of history, comfort and wellbeing, weeks after my departure – a blow cushioned by a ‘farewell bag’ of travel supplies – it’s these small but significant things which have stayed with me. The Gainsborough Bath Spa Beau Street, BA1 1QY www.thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk
RAISE A GLASS TO THE GEM OF BERKSHIRE JAMES MASSOUD relives a shocking moment in wine history at gastronomic stay the Vineyard
Being welcomed with a glass of wine is one of the best ways to be welcomed to anything. But when it’s offered you while checking into a five-star hotel and spa, you know it’s going to be something special. Such is the welcome at the Vineyard in Newbury, Berkshire – winner of three AA Rosette awards and part of the Relais & Châteaux group. As the name suggests, the Vineyard is renowned for its wines and is home to a 30,000-bottle wine cellar. It’s also the home of a notable painting depicting 1976’s Judgement of Paris, a spectacular moment in wine history: ’May 24, 1976, was a beautiful sunny day in Paris, and as it turned out, a glorious day for Californian wines. As a Sonoma wine farmer, the Judgement of Paris was a momentous occasion that continues to inspire. At the Vineyard, this painting bears witness to that.’ explains Sir Peter Michael, owner of the hotel and a farmer who produces some very fine estate wines in Knights Valley, Sonoma. Indeed, on that fateful day in a Paris hotel, British wine merchant Steven Spurrier had arranged for a blind tasting of French and Californian wines for nine well-qualified judges – all French wine experts. There were contenders for both Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, and in guessing which of the two was French the judges were unanimous. And they were wrong…Shocked, outraged – call it what you like – the furore caused by Californian wines usurping the superior French wines in taste, by the experts themselves (unbeknownst to them, of course), led to widespread whispers, which effectively put the Americans on the wine map. The Vineyard has recreated that moment not just in painting, but in a blind tasting experience that guests can enjoy, too. There are seven beautiful dishes, each paired with two wines (a French and a Californian) and you have to guess which of the two is French; you’ll leave full and merry. The experience is fun and educational, wafting away the snooty air that some five-star venues can carry. The wines are incredible and surprising; the waiters are friendly and playful; the food is simply superb: the experience is a real draw for the Vineyard. Another asset is the five-star spa, which provides the perfect pick-me-up after a long week. A highlight among the treatments is the facial, which is very cleansing. Afterwards, take a dip in the Jacuzzi or the circular pool with its swan massage jets and current machine. That will prepare you wonderfully for a fantastic night’s sleep; there are 49 luxurious rooms and suites, each of which is unique in its own right, having been named after a wine. ‘Here’s to the corkscrew, a useful key to unlock the storehouse of wit, the treasury of laughter, the front door of fellowship and the gate of pleasant folly.’ said W.E.P. French. Could not agree with this more, cheers to the Vineyard! The Vineyard Hotel, Stockcross, Newbury RG20 8JU www.the-vineyard.co.uk
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© 2019 HILTON
© 2019 HILTON
CHECKING IN AT THE CONRADS SID RAGHAVA rocks up to the luxurious Conrad hotels in London and Dublin A boozy, romantic and luxurious getaway anyone? A long-ish weekend, not too far from home, that’s culturally gratifying and comfortably staycation-y? Well, what better than a weekend trip to Dublin after a romantic night in London. In these mad old times, when soon we might actually not be part of the same Union that has driven the whole of Europe together, the Irish capital may even seem a bit exotic. Maybe that’s just the booze speaking because its always going to be good ol’ Dublin, considering our shared history: the Rudolf Dassler to our Adi. Enough of speculative, Brexit what-iffery, let’s talk about a rather luscious itinerary. So whether you live in London or not, you could set the standards high for this oh-so-romantic long weekend with a stay at the magnificent London Conrad St. James hotel. Whether you arrive into London through Paddington or Kings Cross or fly into one of the several airports bordering the Big Smoke, worry not because Conrad St. James is conveniently located in the heart of it all, right outside St. James tube station and within neighbourly distance of Buckingham Palace. The hotel is renowned for its warm interiors and warmer service. The rooms at Conrad vary in decor and distinguish themselves quite literally. The tone set now, get stuck into the sensory experience involving thorough enjoyment of food and wine. The Blue Boar offers some rather exquisite fare with head chef Michael Riordan doing a stellar job with his version of contemporary British food rounded off with European finesse and there’s plenty of topclass tipples to complement the food. The posh bar on the other end is supplemented by Emmeline’s Lounge, named after Ms Pankhurst and renowned for its cocktails and bubbly offerings as
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much as for its high tea. The final ace in this full deck of hedonism is Conrad’s partnership with City of London Distillery. The Gin Distillery Tour starts off with a short class explaining different ingredients used in the gin-making process and an explanation of the distillation process. Visitors can choose different botanicals and concoct and produce their very own personalised bottle of gin. Located just off Fleet Street, it is the only working distillery in the whole of the City and is situated at the heart of the Gin Craze of the 18th century, opening its doors in 2012, nearly two centuries after the last distilleries in the City closed. All in all, the Conrad in London is definitely a heady affair. Onwards and upwards, and a brief flight across the Irish Sea and on to the second part of the adventure. Much like the St. James location in London, the Conrad Dublin is stupendously central to everything a tourist or business traveller would want. St. Stephen’s Green, Grafton Street, the Docklands and National Concert Hall are all just a stone’s throw away. Recently refurbished and glowing with a rich literary and cultural history, the hotel’s spacious rooms boast ample bathrooms and comfortable beds. On to the gastric offerings and the Coburg Brasserie comes up trumps with several seafood stalwarts such as bouillabaisse, water-bay rope mussels and lobster and prawn ravioli. The casual dining favourite is Alfie Byrnes run by Galway Bay Brewery for a delightful evening of craft beer and sliders all rounded off with some single malt whisky. If sophistication be thy middle name then head to Lemuels, a sophisticated bar offering some of the best cocktails, wines and finger food. If you’re thinking gin in London must be chased with whiskey in Dublin, you’re absolutely right. The Teeling Whiskey Distillery
is a must for whiskey fans and the Conrad does arrange tours in partnership with this newly historic entity located in the heart of Dublin City Centre. Historic in that it is the first new distillery in Dublin for over 125 years and an enlightening tour of the distillery concludes with a private tasting and drinks at the distillery’s Bang Bang Bar. A romantic weekend spent in both London and Dublin is a grand idea especially when luxury and hedonism are accompanying bedfellows, and Conrad St. James and its Dublin counterpart will gladly and very ably provide the backdrop. DUBLIN TIP If you have time for just one cultural highpoint within 200 metres of the hotel, do please visit the Little Museum of Dublin which provides visitors with an entertaining glimpse into life in Dublin during the 20th century. It has thousands of items that have been donated by or loaned from the people of Dublin over three floors of exhibition space in a Georgian town-house. www.littlemuseum.ie Conrad Hotels and Resorts span more than five continents, with nearly 35 properties across the globe, designed for the new generation of smart luxury travellers who wish to combine business and leisure. The brand has upcoming openings in Washington 2019, Hangzhou 2019 and Jakarta 2021. Guests can manage their stay through the Conrad Concierge service in the Hilton Honors mobile app, getting access to pre check-in and room selection to ordering in room dining and mobile checkout, all from their own mobile device. To learn more or book, please visit www.conradhotels.com
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PAGE 44 © 2019 HILTON
‘There’s not a building taller than the highest palm tree on Sanibel (if it falls over, does someone then need to lop part of their roof off? Asking for a friend)’
WED TO ISLAND TIME
Photos: Andrew Coles
A small chain of islands off Florida’s southwest coast offer the promise of endless sun, and perhaps the most relaxed wedding destination there is.
The concept of island time, where a general disdain for timeliness creeps in, is perhaps not an obvious bedfellow for your typical wedding day. But, the concept’s comforting embrace can be felt growing as you traverse the three-mile causeway onto southwest Florida’s Sanibel Island, chasing away any notions of bridezillaism on the special day. That couples would choose a spectacular natural setting to tie the knot is nothing new, but the concept of a destination wedding really comes into its own when you first set foot onto Sanibel’s sugary white sands and let the tepid-warm ocean waters lap up to your shins. It’s a cliché for sure, but with copious palms rustling in the warm breeze and visions of sipping salty sunset margaritas maturing, you feel as if your mind has travelled immeasurably further from home than your body has. The islands of Sanibel and Captiva, discreet and exclusive homes to a lucky few, and nearby Fort Myers, are not what you think of when Florida is mentioned at dinner. Miami, Orlando, Disneyland, Key West, and the vaunted ‘Florida Man’ are what spring to mind, but Fort Myers and its nearby barrier islands run to a different, slower beat. If Miami is rapper Pitbull (he named
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his debut album after the city, don’t forget), then Sanibel is Ziggy Marley. You can spot the tourists who have just arrived ‘on island’, as they say. They’re the ones wearing collared shirts and pressed trousers as they dine on their lobster at famous restaurants such as the Alice in Wonderland-inspired Mad Hatter, at Old Captiva House, and in the shambolically decorated, must-see Bubble Room Restaurant. The locals, on the other hand, choose to stroll around wearing what would be generously described as shabby beach chic. Covered shoes, you quickly learn, are always optional. There’s not a building taller than the highest palm tree on Sanibel (if it falls over, does someone then need to lop part of their roof off? Asking for a friend), and there are no street or traffic lights so as to avoid disturbing nesting sea turtles, who navigate to the beach by moonlight alone. Chain stores are the enemy, and as such there are only three that were grandfathered in before the statute banning them was enacted, and you’ll need to cross back to the mainland in the hunt for any form of fast food. Sanibel and Captiva islands can be accessed by road and a
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rental car is recommended for ease of mobility (although there’s 25 miles of dedicated bike paths to enjoy once you’re there), but there are several nearby islands that can only be accessed by sea or air. North Captiva Island is bisected by a diminutive grass airstrip called ‘Salty Approach’ that is a favourite among local cowboy pilots, but we instead enlist Captiva Cruises to sail us to Cayo Costa Island, an almost untouched strip of pristine sand and mangrove forest that forms the Cayo Costa State Park. We watch a quartet of manatees nibble on the shallow seabed as we wait for our vessel at McCarthy’s Marina, and then marvel as dolphins play gleefully in our boat’s wake once we get underway. Once on Cayo Costa’s beach we assume a position called the ‘Sanibel Stoop’ and scour it for shells. Shelling is a popular pastime here, and there’s even a Shell Museum who have produced an app that will identify your find in real-time. Fort Myers (and its nearby islands) is a popular wedding destination, and its small handful of resorts are well-versed in realising the wishes of a couple from afar. Our first stop is at Sundial Beach Resort and Spa, and on our arrival its wedding team is preparing to marry a German couple later that afternoon. There’s a floral arch standing on a quiet section of beach, framing the shining-blue waters of the Gulf of Mexico, and the reception will be held on hard-packed sand in the dunes. The happy couple will dine and dance into the evening under strung fairy lights, the space defined by a ring of tall palms, with the guarantee of warm winds and minimal chance of rain in the winter season making it as low-risk as an outdoor wedding will ever be. Nearby Tween Waters Inn Island Resort, on Captiva, offers similar options but has its own boat harbour, and was a favoured haunt of Theodore Roosevelt. The islands of Sanibel and Captiva have another major advantage over similar destinations, and that’s the lure of activities for those whose ideal holiday isn’t spent getting a tan. Fort Myers was the winter home of Thomas Edison and Henry Ford, and the site includes a fascinating museum chronicling the inventions of the pair, including the laboratory in which Edison discovered latex rubber, left untouched since his death in 1931. Just a block away is the Coastal Dayz micro-brewery, who brew a full-bodied oatmeal stout that is unexpectedly drinkable in the warmth, and in nearby Cape Coral is Wicked Dolphin Rum, the first legal distillery in the state of Florida for 85 years. The family-run Gulf Coast Fudge Co will even teach your guests how to make their own fudge bonbonniere, a fun get-to-know-you activity for sure. Is it too much of a risk to plan a wedding on Island Time? Well, that depends on the couple. But weddings are meant to be fun, enjoyable and an expression of love for friends and family to revel in. And if everyone is running on Island Time, sipping champagne and enjoying the best sunsets in the world as the lucky couple begins life as one, how could things possibly go wrong? To plan your trip to the Beaches of Fort Myers and Sanibel, go to www. fortmyers-sanibel.com Fly to Southwest Florida International Airport in Fort Myers from the UK via Philadelphia, Newark, Charlotte, Atlanta, and other main hubs. Prices start from £490 a person. Sundial Beach Resort & Spa – www.sundialresort.com Tween Waters Inn Island Resort – www.tween-waters.com PAGE 47
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HOUSE STARCK After revisiting the Met Bar (see page 51), we’re checking in with another classic and still a firm favourite of ours: the Sanderson Hotel…
The Sanderson is a stay of utter fantasy, with perhaps the most eye-catching lobby in London – a space that not only makes a great first impression, but lulls you into the (quite literal) dream world mad-genius designer Philippe Starck has embraced here. There’s the Dali-inspired pursed-lips sofa, benches like fallen trees, a concertinaed cocoon of a seat you wonder if anyone has tried to climb into, exaggerated Louis XVI couches and wingbacks with elaborate swan-shaped arms. And, things only get curioser and curioser, so it’s best to embrace the eccentricity at check in and run with it. Feel like someone’s watching? Look behind you and you’ll clock the eyes emblazoned on the back of each stool running the length of the hotel’s famed Long Bar. Venture into the inner courtyard and you’ll encounter a precisely manicured Japanese-style garden where a trickling waterfall adds a meditative feel to proceedings. Then, enter the lift to be whisked up to your room, and you’re met with dizzying starlit walls, condensing the universe into a moving box. Freud would probably have a field day here: corridors are simply lit by numbers sunk into the floor, and there’s the vague sensation of entering into your ‘anything could happen’ subconscious. Rooms and suites are all decorated in white and hung with veils to divide spaces and make the former Fifties office block seem all the more romantic. The only hint of colour comes from a vast rug in soft pink and dove grey. The perfect space to project your passions onto, should you wish…Fittings are incredibly luxurious – the vast sleigh bed is cloud soft, the TV has streaming options and a set of speakers eyed enviously by my companion, the bathroom resembles a spaceship with its white expanse and intriguing contraptions – there’s even a set of artistic dumb-bells on a shelf by the door, and if you book one of the upper suites or lofts you can get a terrace, too. The ghost of Nineties minimalism hasn’t quite passed over, but the hotel’s avant-garde attitude feels as current as ever. It’s fitting that the hotel’s beloved afternoon tea offering is the Alice in Wonderland-themed Mad Hatter’s tea (it also comes in ‘tipsy’) – we do feel as if we’ve taken a trip down the rabbit hole. A selection of cakes and sweets from the tea has been left in our room: a jam-filled heart-shaped biscuit, a macaron dressed like the Mad March Hare’s pocket watch, chequerboard chocolate cakes and other quirky creations. The hotel’s fine-dining restaurant takes an inventive approach to dinner too – crab comes in curried batter with yuzu, lamb is spiked with zhoug and a trad rhubarb and custard tart has a pinch of lavender. It’s incredibly tempting, but we opt to explore the dining scene in the hotel’s fabulously central location (minutes from Tottenham Court Road station) by spinning through Deliveroo… But, historically, people don’t come to the Sanderson with food on their mind…The Long Bar has welcomed celebs and
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Photos: Niall Clutton
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FROM CLASSIC CARS TO socialites and becomes a true destination bar on Friday and Saturday nights. Likely because the encyclopedic cocktail menu warrants a few return trips. We plump for a Japanese Whispers with shochu, Suntory whisky and passionfruit, and a Love & Rockets: gin and prosecco shaken with strawberry and elderflower. But the bar’s signature Jasmine Margarita and fabulously fragrant The Botanist-inspired cocktail catch my eye too. It’s peaceful on street-facing Berners Terrace when we visit, but on Thursdays the bar moves to DJ Kevin O’Leary’s ‘Don’t Disturb’ club night. It’s a place to linger, and we do, leaving us a little foggyheaded the next day. But, on our return to the scene of our shenanigans, we’re thrilled to see the glasses and shakers have magically been replaced with a spread of meats, cheeses and fresh pastries, and we’re presented with a revivifying menu of hearty day-starters: shakshuka, pancakes, Turkish cilbir eggs and a full English. Well, the hotel does have a wealth of experience in cosseting hungover guests as well as making your night a bit more magical. And, I reflect, as I admire the lobby before I leave, that the magic Sanderson’s madcap dreamworld weaves hasn’t dimmed a bit. 50 Berners St, Fitzrovia, London W1T 3NG | 020 7300 5588 www.morganshotelgroup.com/originals/originals-sanderson-london
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CLASSICAL MUSIC, EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF SUMMER AT THE POST LECH HOTEL
Are you tired of traditional beach summer holidays? If you’re looking for a more exhilarating break this summer, escape to the Austrian Alps and reap the physical and emotional benefits of fresh mountain air. There is no better place to experience a luxurious holiday than the Post Lech, a five-star Relais & Châteaux hotel nestled in the heart of the bustling village of Lech. Lech is famous as a winter destination, with its pristine slopes and world-renowned après-ski, but this region of the Alps is also breathtaking in summertime. Once the snow thaws the lush green of the Alps is revealed and new opportunities present themselves for visitors to Lech-am-Arlberg. This summer sees the return of the 10th edition of the prestigious Arlberg Classic Car Rally, the Arlberg Classic Golf Cup from the 26 to 30 June and the 8th Lech Classical Festival from 29 July to 3 August, and there is nowhere better to stay and experience these activities than at the heart of the action, at the Post Lech Hotel. There’s an abundance of outdoor activities on offer in Lech: canoeing, kayaking, archery, rafting, rock-climbing, golf, zip-lining, hiking and more. Lech Zurs also gives guests the opportunity to indulge in ‘yoga on the mountain’. Whether you’re a solo traveller or a couple looking to reconnect with the outdoors, or an adventurous, thrill-seeking family who want to make some unforgettable memories, there is no better luxury experience than at the Post Lech. The Post Lech hotel is an institution in itself, being one of the original hotels in the beautiful alpine town. The hotel houses 46 generously appointed rooms and suites that are either traditional and rustic or innovative and modern in design. Every room is individual and decorated with a lot of attention to detail, alongside state-of-the-art technology. After a busy day on the tracks, or at the golf course, the Post Lech is the perfect place to unwind in, with afternoon tea or to simply relax in the luxurious spa. Guests can immerse themselves into a wellness oasis for body and soul at the Post Beauty & Spa, where a professional team is available to personalise all guests’ pampering programmes. PAGE 49
BOCCONCINO 19 Berkeley Street, Mayfair, W1J 8ED WORDS: HARRIET BEDDER Berkeley Street is thrumming with the buzz of Friday-night revellers as we approach Bocconcino. The light from inside the restaurant projects its name – scrawled across the front windows in signature script – onto the pavement outside, intriguing passers-by. Led by both the sound of live music and irresistible smell of fried garlic wafting across the street, we leave the Mayfair Hotel, where we’ve stopped for an apéritif, and to embark on what we predict will be a gluttonous dinner. Once inside, we’re struck by the strong, mouthwatering aroma of truffle; we eagerly descend the main spiral staircase into the belly of the restaurant where we’re seated with a perfect view of the evening’s live band. In true Italian style, portion sizes are wildly generous: my antipasti of seafood bruschetta is enough for a main course. I’m worried I’ll struggle to finish it, but the garlic and chilli oil has soaked deliciously into the dough and the taste is irresistible. The seafood, which has had to cover a fair distance before its arrival in Mayfair, tastes seaside-fresh. The calamari and clams holding the chilli, saffron and garlic are slick with olive oil, and the dish unexpectedly reveals flavour after flavour. Meanwhile, my companion has ordered my usual favourite, aubergine parmigiana, a dish I first fell in love with at Hotel Caesar Augustus in Anacapri a few years ago. Though it is a simple dish, I’ve found it alarmingly hard to find a match elsewhere. Trying a heaped forkful of Bocconcino’s melanzane comes close to
SOHO WALA 21 Great Marlborough Street, W1F 7H WORDS: SID RAGHAVA Courthouse Hotel in Central London is interesting in more ways than one. Situated slap-bang in the middle of Soho on Great Marlborough Street, it boasts a huge swimming pool, a rooftop bar and one of the biggest private cinemas in London. Add to those another feather in its hat – new Indian food stalwart Soho Wala – and you’re talking an attractive stopover for tourists and Londoners alike, all sat snugly within a former magistrates court (hence the name). Soho Wala opened around Christmas last year and quickly gained ground in the crowded space that is London’s – in particular Soho’s – reenergised Indian food scene, a luscious minefield of stylised street food and delectable small plates. However, through chef Preet Tandi’s accomplished menu, it has placed itself firmly at the top end of the trend and a visit is de rigueur for Indian food enthusiasts and
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the authentic Italian – with soft, flavourful aubergine – but can’t quite match up, leaving me to wonder how much environmental factors influence taste and daydreaming about glittering panoramic views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Back in Mayfair, I’m satisfied and could happily end the meal here, but a pasta dish is on its way… As recommended by our waiter, we both opt for a linguine secondi: my companion chooses the Scottish lobster with cherry tomatoes and I opt for clams with chilli, garlic and cherry tomatoes – we can’t both order the same dish, but we’re as stubborn as each other. My linguine alla Vongole is light, despite the heaping of homemade pasta, and rich in flavour. After trying the lobster dish, we decide we made the right choice, although Bocconcino’s famous truffle pizza came a close second. At this point, we’re too full for dessert, but after two exceptional courses we decide to order and ‘try’ some desserts – for the
benefit of the review, of course. In other words: we’ll pretend we won’t eat them, then devour both between us. Following a successful rendition of the melanzane, I order my favourite dessert, tiramisu, which tastes amazing. The balance of the cognac and creamy whipped mascarpone elevates the bitter espresso. It reminds me of boozy Boxing Day lunches at my Godparent’s house, where dinners would always end with a giant tiramisu, this meal ends on a similar high. My companion orders the sorbet; I find it tastes like my childhood Piriton medicine, but she loves it and devours all three flavours before leaning over to start on my tiramisu. We are surprised by just how delicious and generous the dishes are at Bocconcino, but the restaurant prides itself on using excellent quality ingredients, honest cooking and providing first-class service, and it successfully delivers on all counts.
Soho shoppers alike. Soho Wala is situated in an iconic part of London and it’s armed with some rather gorgeous food, served within warm and welcoming interiors. Here, you have your usual suspects to gorge on : Paapdi Chaat, Bhel Puri, Pani puri and Aloo Tikki, all prepared with the skill of a street-food vendor from Varanasi. Mirchi Matchsticks are succulent chicken strips which stand out within the starters list. Mains include the sweet, sour and spicy magic of Goanese favourite Prawn Balchao, the ever-pleasing Tandoor undercurrent of Hariyali Poussin (green chicken) and the subtly sharp flavours of Byadgi Murgh (Byadgi chilispiced chicken). Specials include Lucknowi Biryani, Kheema Pao and one of Mumbai’s choicest offerings, Pao Bhaji. If youre one for traditional offerings, Laal Maas Rajasthani, Chooza Makhani and Chicken Chettinad are all on the menu along with everybody’s beloved Tadka Dal. Phirni, Kulfi and a very special Gulab Jamun Cheesecake are both brilliant desserts to round off a satisfying
celebration of Indian street-food culture. A wide selection of spirits, wines and beers complements the extensive menu. A trip to Soho usually involves shopping, clubbing and whole lot of eating and drinking. Soho Wala is a worthy pitstop or prime destination no matter what be your persuasion.
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GRIDIRON 19 Old Park Lane, Mayfair W1K 1LB WORDS: KATE WEIR I spent my 18th birthday in the ironclad nucleus of Nineties stardom that was The Met bar, where I was chastised by staff for attempting to sneak an autograph
from Dave Grohl (before briefly making his acquaintance in the bathroom stairwell), propped up the bar next to Bruce Willis, clocked Jack Black shambling through and befriended the events organiser who then dropped £600 on a bottle of vintage champagne. It was glamorous, chaotic and clandestine – a hangout whose star wattage was matched only by its inaccessibility, paired neatly with the Como Park Lane hotel’s chic minimalism and Nobu’s misoglazed glory. So, returning to dine at Gridiron, the restaurant that replaced this Brit-pop Babylon, dredges up in me nostalgia for Blairite optimism and some pining for the demise of a loud and louche decade. However, with a new look befitting a svelte steak joint, a collaboration with meat maestro Richard Turner (formerly of Hawksmoor, Pitt Cue Co, butchers Turner & George…) and Fiona Beckett (wine writer for the Guardian) picking the plonk, they’re all set for a renaissance. Behind the bar once propped up by Smash Hits Roadshow headliners and indie darlings are now flamelicked grills, designed to provide a ‘good maillard reaction’ (i.e. perfectly browning the meat and fish) – a piece of kit that consolidates the conceit for the menu. And what a menu – the Met Bar’s decadence has been distilled into an ode to wantonness: pig’s head with black-pudding croquettes, monkfish with a dollop of XOlaced tartare, roasted cauliflower paired with beignets – and you can choose to douse your dish in porcini-infused bread sauce. One has to do such a menu justice, so we rack up calories with abandon. To start, smoky, fall-apart lamb-belly fritters in a complementary mint aioli, and salsa-verdeslathered scallops. To follow, chicken-salt-
sprinkled turbot in butter sauce, perfectly pink Hereford beef fillet with thick wedges of beef-dripping-fried gallette potatoes and a crucible of sin: a ramekin of Tunworth mashed potato with braised trotter and shivs of crackling. This is bulging-at-theseams dining, fine enough to make the excess feel acceptable. We eke in dessert: a glossy custard tart with cheery, cheekpuckering chunks of rhubarb – an intriguing take on the nursery classic. Some things do stay the same – the Como’s lobby still smells luxuriously of eucalyptus and peppermint and on its top floor Nobu’s skilled chefs are still slicing and dicing the freshest fish. The Met Bar is as distant and fuzzy a memory as the wee hours of my 18th, but hedonism is still hidden away here, still every bit as tantalising and not barred by a moody bouncer and a velvet rope.
PERIDOT AT THE BENTLEY 27–33 Harrington Gardens, Kensington SW7 4JX WORDS: SID RAGHAVA The Bentley is a boutique gem in the heart of South Kensington. We reviewed the hotel last Autumn and praised its majestic ambience and luxurious offerings, coupled with impeccable service from eager personnel. The Peridot is the hotel’s restaurant and bar situated on Harrington Gardens. It mirrors the immaculate setting and is a rather cute and elegant brasserie which excels in its classic Modern British and European fare. It is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner while also doing a rather delectable afternoon tea service – the latter being a particular favourite amongst locals. The Edwardian-themed dining room is a serene space that looks onto neighbouring gardens and gives it a rather light, summery feel. Beautifully ornate antique chairs dot the
elegant backdrop and chandeliers complete the regal mood. Classics such as a light starter of fish cakes with lime mayonnaise and salad, and roasted favourites like seabream fillet and pork belly dominate the menu and deliver taste and texture paired with tipple from an impressive bevy of wines. If you’re after the afternoon tea, you can be assured of ample options: toasted crumpets or toasted muffins with butter and organic jams and delicious freshly baked scones with clotted-cream and strawberry jam. Teas include jasmine pearls and Indian breakfast, plus the usual suspects and several more. We recommend the Champagne tea, which starts the ‘tea ceremony’ off with a glass of bubbly – always a welcome addition…
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THE AMERICAN BAR AT THE STAFFORD LONDON 16 St James’s Place, St James’s, SW1A 1PE WORDS: SARAH RODRIGUES Following extensive refurbishment last year, the American Bar at the Stafford London has drawn on the rich history of its namesake country to launch a theatrical new cocktail menu. Key people, places, moments and innovations form the inspiration for the range, which is made up of 16 cocktails, two of which are non-alcoholic but can be boozily modified, if desired. At £20 and upwards each, they’re not drinks to quaff mindlessly, but then, that’s partly the point. The menu accompanying the selection forms a pleasurable enhancement to the experience, with characterful handdrawn pen and ink illustrations from young artist Dominic McGrath and engaging, descriptive paragraphs that tell the tale behind each drink and bring the American Dream to life. And, if you’ve neglected to bring your reading glasses to the bar with you, the cocktails themselves provide a visual feast, each one carefully created and curated to tell its own story. Lady Liberty, for example, is served in an Art Deco-style glass reminiscent of the iconic statue’s torch. A heady mix of Hendrick’s Gin, Solerno liqueur, St Germain
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liqueur, green Chartreuse, kaffir lime and lime juice: its blue-green colour evokes the statue’s iconic hue. The Statue of Liberty itself was a gift from France to America, commemorating the cooperation of the two countries during the American Revolution; the relationship finds further form in the American Bar, where the Bar Managers – a role currently (and for the past 20 years) held by the unfailingly charming Benoît Provost – have always been French. The glassware for the new range has been meticulously researched and sourced, ensuring maximum wow-factor. The Aviator salutes several individuals who defied gravity, including the Wright brothers, Neil Armstrong, Bessie Coleman and Amelia Earhart, by being served in a glass which, thanks to magnetic suspension, levitates above a base. The Man on the Moon recalls President John F. Kennedy’s 1962 speech, in which he declared his commitment to landing humans on the moon within a decade. A potent blend of Monkey Shoulder whiskey infused with ginger, fennel soda, honey and lemon juice appears shrouded in mist under a cloche, which is then whisked away to allow the smoke to clear and the ‘moon’, a spherical vessel which looks as though it wouldn’t be out of place in a science lab, to emerge; a clever device that ably summons up the mysteries and enormity of space travel. It’s not the first time that the American
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Bar team has embraced history and heritage in its menu: last summer, after the revamp, they created twelve drinks in recognition of the hotel’s exclusive St James’s address. From a gin-based drink named in honour of the Stafford London guest Nancy Wake (a secret agent whose ability to elude capture earned her the nickname The White Mouse, now the cocktail’s name), to the Oppenheimer: a dazzling blue concoction served in a diamond-shaped glass and celebrating the £57.6 million diamond sold at nearby Christie’s in 2016, these were an innovative acknowledgement of the rich history of the area in which the hotel stands. Despite the launch of the new American menu, four of these ‘local history’ drinks will still be readily available, although others can be made on request. This time, however, staff throughout the hotel have been instrumental in masterminding the concept and development of the new cocktails, bringing the range to life and researching the links and stories to be embodied in each mix. The Equaliser, for instance – an homage to Martin Luther King – was originally envisaged as a drink of equal parts, which, in practice, simply didn’t work. Discovering that the activist’s favourite beverage was Chinotto, a dark, bitter Italian carbonated drink, it was decided to make this a component of the cocktail, which also contains Dictador 12, Rhubarb liqueur, Muyu Chinotto Nero and lime juice. Low-key and refreshingly glitz-free, The American Bar is a fascinating and cosy wateringhole in the heart of St James’s. It’s a place to linger and relax, surrounded by memorabilia and imbibing liquid history, dazzlingly presented and perfectly executed.
NO. FIFTY CHEYNE 50 Cheyne Walk, Chelsea, SW3 5LR WORDS: HARRIET BEDDER Emerging from the chrysalis of a nine-month renovation merely days before our arrival, King’s Road eatery No. 50 Cheyne has us in a giddy state of anticipation. We have no point of reference, no reviews to lead, no judgements to influence...We feel exhilarated to be one of the first to try the menu by renowned new head chef, Iain Smith (formerly of Social Eating House and Shosharu). This brasserie turned formal restaurant stands boldly with bright azure walls on Cheyne Walk – a residential area in Old Chelsea, a stone’s throw away from the Thames’ Albert Bridge and its fairytale twinkle. We arrive a little early for dinner to enjoy an apéritif before we decide to dive into the dinner menu. The manager, Benoit Auneau, leads us past the open grill located directly opposite the entrance to the bar-dining area, which is kitted out with parquet flooring, a cushion-scattered banquette snaking along a wall, striking orange-striped chairs and marbleinset dark-oak tables. There are 70 covers alone down here and so much orange it feels as if we’ve walked into the restaurant version of Hermès. As the restaurant begins to fill up the tables seem at close quarters – we feel like guests in a house rather than patrons in a restaurant, and as the evening goes on we almost want to recommend dishes to the diners next to us. But first, drinks. My companion opts for a classic mojito, while I more allow the bartender to make me something off-piste – after letting him know that I like my cocktails with Hendricks gin and maybe some elderflower, that is. Armed with these instructions, he returns with a liquored-up ‘Garden Fizz’ (usually a mocktail). Then, finally, our observant French waiter glides over to talk us through the menu and recommended dishes – he assures us everything is great. My companion and I start on a bottle of wine and ponder the menu as the sun sets into the Thames. The waiter clearly has a good rapport with customers – later, he excitedly appears to ask if we have enjoyed our food. We – just as eagerly – tell him how lovely the scallop and langoustine with squid-ink black rice and champagne sauce is, along with the slow-cooked hen’s egg with asparagus, morels and wild garlic. He sends for a beetroot salad with heritage carrots, pickled apple, pears and cashew-nut cream to be brought out as he can’t believe we haven’t tried it yet – a much appreciated gesture, as it’s divine. Our waiter makes us feel like valued guests all evening Pleasant hours pass in a whirl of ambient music and buzzy chatter – not us though, we busy ourselves with eating. Our mains steal the show: aged beef fillet and cheek melt like butter in your mouth – they’re served with rich, creamed spinach and are topped with a silky, smoked bone-marrow. My companion falls for her favourite: veal steak, which comes cooked exactly to her liking and reminds her of summer nights in Sainte-Maxime. There are sides, too: a refreshing tomato and shallot salad with gremolata, grilled broccolini with garlic and beef-fat-cooked fries: all of which we struggle to finish. Most of the tables are occupied – a grand feat for a restaurant’s opening week – by the time we receive our mains, and it’s clear that the majority of diners live nearby and are coming to test their new local. The restaurant, despite its renovation and rebrand, has not changed hands since 2003 when Sally Greene OBE (founding director of the Old Vic Theatre and proprietor or Ronnie Scott’s) opened the doors in 2003. So, its latest incarnation has clearly intrigued its neighbours. No. 50 Cheyne showcases some of the best hospitality I’ve experienced in London for a long time. Luxury is no longer just a stylish space and unbeatable food, but the service received in exchange for hard-earned cash. Who doesn’t love being made to feel valued and comfortable, rather than just another table to cover? At No. 50 you feel well cared for by waiters who are available when needed, yet unobtrusive (I hate ‘the hover’). Alongside its fabulous menu, it’s a class act – long may it reign on Cheyne Walk. PAGE 53
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KOOLCHA KoolCha, Unit 21, Wembley Boxpark, 18 Olympic Way, Wembley HA9 0JT WORDS: SID RAGHAVA
A RACE-Y LITTLE NUMBER
I love Arsenal Football Club, and while I’m not a particularly diehard sports fan, I occasionally go full ‘Gunners’. I was lucky to have witnessed their last three FA Cup triumphs at Wembley and even though all of those outings were perfect in every way, it might just have been better if I’d prefaced them with a meal at a hearty joint like KoolCha, a new stalwart of casual Indian dining. You see most subcontinental eateries lie on the other side of Wembley and there wasn’t much sense in making a pit stop at favourite eateries back then – plus, KoolCha wasn’t even born yet. Also, Rohit Ghai’s new launch sets itself apart from its seemingly innumerable competitors around Ealing Road with a thundering rustic finesse that can only come from a former chef at Benares and Gymkhana who now heads the equally famous Kutir in Chelsea. The 60-seater restaurant serves a varied host of Rohit’s signature biryanis alongside stuffed naans or kulchas and various other small plates. This is his second collaboration with Abhishake Sangwan and the restaurant also includes a cocktail bar. What impresses most is Rohit’s wizardry with Indian street classics like Ghati Masala Prawns and Mumbai’s famous street offerings: Ragda Pattice (potato, dried-pea curry and chaat chutneys) and Vada Pav (a potato dumpling in a roll). They all taste like they have come from the breed of legendary street-food stands in Mumbai – the ones which have throngs of people eagerly waiting to be served in sweltering heat. The basic KoolCha meals come with pickles and salad but can be further supplemented with raita, pilaf and salad. These eponymous creations are quite the centrepieces in the Ghai show, delivering very favourably on the taste graph and are quite a novelty for the average Brit brought up on highstreet Anglo-Bangladeshi curry-house fare. Punchy cocktails like the Appu, which fuses mandarin-infused Ketel One with lemon sherbet, amaro Montenegro and ginger beer, impress. Beer, including Malabar IPA and Cobra are perfect companions to the fare. The Masala Chai will magically transport you to a tea wallah’s shop at a railway station in a sleepy part of Uttar Pradesh. In fact, the friendly staff might even entertain your off-menu request for the famous fresh lime soda. Since opening in February, KoolCha has offered residents of Wembley and stadium-goers a welcome option for authentic and stylised Indian food in a rather homey setting, but it is still essentially a bit of a secret partly due to its location in Zone 4. However, all it takes is a quick ride on either Metropolitan or Jubilee lines up to Wembley Park Tube Station. KoolCha is quite simply another step forward in the resurgence of Indian food with the discovery of unknown and new subcontinental flavours. This is top-notch comfort food sourced straight from the streets of India.
Confession: I’ve never been to the Royal Ascot race meet, but I suspect the jockeys wear breeches under their silks rather than just a pair of tidy whities, and the fillies running the race aren’t waxed-in-extremis dancers sporting some rather fulsome tails. However, I suspect the London Cabaret Club’s Ascot-inspired Hats, Heels and Horses show – which has all the above and more – is somewhat sexier than the heritage horse race beloved by the Queen. First, we’re led by an extravagantly be-hatted steward from the entrance on Bloomsbury Square down into the low-lit Rose Bar for the champagne reception, where one of the dancers is pulling punters onto the floor for a quick salsa lesson. The show proper is held in the cavernous ballroom. Guests are seated at tables around the stage; a diplomatic arrangement that allows clear views from all round. The lights dim, sparkling stage lights go up, and then, showtime… The Club has a reputation as an outstanding entertainer and this show is as thunderously thrilling as the beat of horses hooves on the racing green, also moving at first-placing speed. There’s a nod to My Fair Lady’s Ascot number with fabulous black-and-white costumery, neon-lit sequences with sexy jockeys, pole dancers and aerialists, acrobats and clowns, tap dancers, Bollywood sequences, sultry Spanish salsa and even a performance from the club’s show dog. Over three acts, each new piece thrills, right up until the finale: a showstopper celebrating the meet’s notorious headgear. As we ooh and aah, we’re served wine and a suitably refined three-course feast: a royal-artichoke tart with watercress, seabass with celeriac and pineapple and a Pimms No 1 cheesecake. Then, as the confetti settles, we’re back in the bar for dancing into the wee hours. We may not have had a flutter on the fillies and gone away quids in, but we’re all a’flutter with the excitement and adrenaline of a full-throttle show.
KATE WEIR sees the saucier side of Royal Ascot at the London Cabaret Club
Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, Holborn, London WC1B 4DA www.thelondoncabaretclub.com
SHOPPING EDIT
What we’re spending our money on this Summer...
Lanique, Rose-Petal Liqueur Harvey Nichols, Amazon, TheDrinkShop www.lanique.co.uk | £29 for 70cl
Armani Privé: Musc Shamal Perfume Exclusive to Harrods till 2 October, www.harrods.com £225 for 100ml
Natures Plus, Hempceutix Complete 5mg Capsules www.planetorganic.com | £45.95 Hedgepig Zesty Elderflower Gin Liqueur (ABV 29.8%) www.pinkstergin.com £32 for 50cl, £16 for 20cl
Photos: Dom Martin @domdommartin
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Paul Smith x Hummingbird, Limited-Edition Single-Speed Bike www.hummingbirdbike.com | £3,995
THE
Beauty EDIT.
Pixi, Hydrating Milky Collection (lotion, cleanser, tonic, peel and makeup remover) www.pixibeauty.co.uk | £18–24
EASTER EGG HUNT READY: OUR SPRING BEAUTY GUIDE... Tom and Teddy (matching swimwear for dads and sons), mens’ chalky-blue elephants swim shorts www.tomandteddy.com | £69.95
Sense* for joint and bone food-supplement capsules www.senseproducts.co.uk | £6.99 for 35g
.
MIXX Pushchair with Cot www.nuna.eu | £675
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SKIN DEEP
New clinic Young LDN creates a welcoming space for teens to address their specific concerns – and parents are catered for, too, writes SARAH RODRIGUES
Isn’t it often the way that a brilliant business idea is born out of frustration at not being able to find that you want? When Sue Carroll’s teenage son started to develop acne she wanted to find condition-appropriate treatment for him in an age-appropriate environment. Instead, she found that their spa visits were sources of conflict: he hated going for treatments where his age and gender made him feel even more self-conscious, and where – while waiting for extractions and LED lights – he was side-byside with clients waiting for injectables. ‘He would go, and he would benefit from the treatment, because they would do the extractions and keep his skin clean, but every time I had to take him I had a fight,’ remembers Sue. ‘Another frustration was that they didn’t necessarily have the best products for the acneic skin: the focus was on anti-ageing. I used to think, there must be somewhere I can take him where I won’t have to fight with him and he will get the right treatment – and there wasn’t.’ So, from the realisation of the absence of a place that would appeal to the GenZ and Millenial market, designed and priced in a way that would feel accessible and comfortable to them, Young LDN was created. It wasn’t an overnight process. Her son’s skin issues started at age 12; he is now 17 and the clinic opened in December 2018. Having never been an aesthetician or beautician – she was originally a speech therapist – Sue admits that she had a lot to learn. ‘It took time to come up with the concept, make the right contacts and basically ask a huge number of questions everywhere I went. There was a lot of trial and error!’ Aimed at ages 12 and up, Young LDN is concerned as much with prevention as with cure; indeed, one of their treatments, the educational facial, combines a cocoa enzyme facial with teaching young people how to clean their skin properly and the dangers of having their bacteria-coated phones constantly by their faces or in hand. Mindful of the fact that it’s parents who are paying for a young person’s skincare, the treatment has been priced affordably.
KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
The decor mirrors this concern with accessibility: it’s eyepoppingly fun, not clinical or intimidating. Bright murals and astro-turf cover walls and ceilings; above the downstairs toilet, a crown-wearing swan looms out from the wall in a 3D spectacle. Charging stations, iPads and Beats headphones abound – and, of course, the space is WiFi enabled, so that kids can Snapchat their experience. The Peel Bar, offering treatments lasting 20, 40 or 60 minutes, is a popular draw, aimed at a price- and time-sensitive clientele – particularly Millennials. Here, clients can enjoy a cleanse and light peel or enzyme, followed by Gua Sha stones or Cryotherapy and LED light treatment, if desired. It’s not just aesthetic treatments that Young LDN offers – it also provides manicures, lash lifts, eyebrow shaping, waxing and makeup. For a parent bringing a child in for a treatment, there’s no need to idle in a waiting room: they can get their beauty fix at the same time. ‘One of the things that annoyed me when I was taking my son for his treatments was the waiting around,’ explains Sue. ‘People are busy! It was important for me that parents could have a beauty treatment or more intensive clinical procedure while their child was being treated in another area of the clinic. I wanted to create a space that catered for all ages, all genders and all skin types.’ It’s an ideal fit, then, that Sadie Frost is the clinic’s ambassador: a mother of four, she has long been an advocate of looking after oneself and ageing naturally, as well as being passionate about teaching her children the importance of cleansing and skincare. Having famous parents (Frost had her first child with Spandau Ballet’s Gary Kemp and another three with actor Jude Law) did not give her children immunity from skin issues, and her own struggles to find adequate and non-intimidating treatments for them have made her a great champion of Young LDN, where she and the children are regulars. To ensure this accessibility across generations, every piece of equipment that Sue has invested in performs multiple
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functions: I am here today to experience INFINI, which combines fractional radiofrequency technology with micro needling and is hugely effective on acne scarring as well as being incredible for anti-ageing. The technology delivers the radiofrequency to the dermis, which is where collagen – essentially, the skin’s scaffolding - is contained; by delivering heat energy, collagen production is stimulated – thus ‘filling’ out the pits formed by acne or, as the case may be, smoothing out lines and improving skin laxity. I spend an hour with numbing cream applied to my face (which, in keeping with Sue’s desire to promote good use of time, provides the perfect opportunity to have a manicure), but beyond that it’s not the most relaxing procedure, delivering hundreds of passes of multiple needles and heat. Cold air is, simultaneously and post-treatment, blasted onto the face to manage the burning sensation; even so, afterwards I look a little red and lumpy, like I’ve stuck my face in a swarm of mosquitoes while sunbathing. It’s a good day to travel by car, rather than public transport. That said, the redness goes down very quickly and by the following day, there’s a slightly pixelated appearance to my face which is only visible on close inspection and would have been easily covered by makeup, if necessary. My therapist, Gigi, had advised me to keep my diary fairly clear for a week, just in case, but within 48 hours my face is perfectly fit for public viewing in fact, more fit than usual, because those nose-to-mouth lines which have plagued my for years have been all but ironed out, my jawline is tighter and my under-eye bags radically diminished. Four treatments at four- to six-week intervals are advised for best results: if this is the effect of just one treatment, then I may even be able to pass for one of Young LDN’s teen clients before too long. INFINI is priced at £700, or £2,240 for a course of treatments. The Young signature facial is for ages 12-18 only, £38. Under 23s receive 25 per cent off all Lab treatments. www.youngldn.com 228 WESTBOURNE GROVE, LONDON, W11 2RH
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‘I’m a little late, but I needn’t worry, as my friendly therapist, Annie, is waiting dutifully by the reception desk.’
SAY CHEESE The plethora of cafés lining the stretch from South Kensington Station to Thurloe Street Dental practice are a harsh reminder of the temptations that have left my teeth looking less than dazzling in recent years. But, I’m here to correct that, so it’s reassuring to walk into the practice’s sunlightfilled interior. Brightness, people. I am here for brightness. Not for coffee. That said, refreshments are available in the room leading off the conservatory adjoining the reception area. It’s a wonderfully welcoming space - and the treatment room, when I am led into it, is dazzling. Gleamingly white and brightened further by a statement mirror, it’s hard to imagine a room that could more ably say #teethgoals, even if it weren’t for the dentistry equipment. The clinic uses the Philips Zoom System, and on this first visit Dr Haider Raza examines my teeth to determine their suitability for the treatment. Common contraindications, he explains, are things like teeth being very porous, or gum erosion, which many increase sensitivity. Having satisfied the criteria for whitening, I’m eager to know what my expected results might be and comforted when Dr Raza says that my discolouration is reasonably low on the scale; probably due to the normal effects of ageing rather than anything else. The following week, I return for the treatment, which starts with the custom making of my trays, which will be used to apply the whitening solution to my teeth here in the practice and then come home with me, so that I can continue the treatment in my own time. The whitening gel is absorbed into the teeth, dissolving stains from the outside in. Dr Raza explains that Philips Zoom uses far lower levels of peroxide than older whitening systems used to, and credits much of its efficacy to the accelerant that forms part of the system. What does it contain? That’s the million-dollar question: Philips keep it a closely guarded secret but – as Dr Raza says – its effect is undeniable. The results are far more noticeable than those that used to be achieved by previous systems with higher peroxide content. With the mouth trays in place, my mouth is
KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
propped open so that the LED light can boost the whitening effects of the products. This takes place for four 15-minute sessions, with time to move and stretch in between: you can’t read, because of the light – not to mention the (oh-so attractive) protective eyeglasses – so headphones are a good idea if you get bored easily. The custom trays are taken home, with additional product, so that the whitening process can continue beyond the practice. Over time, and if the trays are looked after properly, the effects of the treatment can be maintained by purchasing additional product and topping up at home – but it’s worth noting that the products contain ACP (Amorphous Calcium Phosphate), which has been shown to reduce whitening fadeback. So, results? Honestly, impressive: my teeth are noticeably whiter immediately after the treatment, and the effects get even better after a few days of using that at-home kit. My teeth feel a little more sensitive at times, especially when I drink coffee (although that’s a good reminder to go easy on the caffeine, I guess) but the aesthetic difference is well worth the occasional tingle. I’m smiling all the way to the nearest wine bar – I’ll order a glass of white when I get there, though. The Philips ZOOM laser-whitening treatment at Thurloe Street Dental is priced at £595 Thurloe Street Dental 10 Thurloe Street, South Kensington, SW7 2ST www.londonsmiles.com Looking for an inexpensive at-home approach? Billion Dollar Smile offer luxurious teeth-whitening solutions that use safe non-peroxide and natural ingredients, clinically tested to create a brighter smile, while being gentle on teeth and gums. The UK-based company offer premium products at affordable prices that are effective and easy to use at home, with a collection consisting of the following: LED Mini Light Whitening Kit (£39.99) Teeth Whitening Strips (£22.49) Tooth Polish 75ml (£10.99) The full Billion Dollar Smile range is available at www. billiondollarsmilecosmetics.co.uk
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35 St James's Place, St. James's, SW1A 1NY, www.dukeshotel.com
TEMPLE SPA TREATING AT DUKE’S HOTEL KATE WEIR’s face gets a new glow at the stately Mayfair stay
Dukes hotel is delightfully tucked away into its own little pocket of Mayfair. Hidden from the main road, it’s remarkably peaceful, enough so that there’s a swing chair and smattering of tables out front. I’ve arrived to experience the hotel’s spa, and I’m a little late, but I needn’t worry, as my friendly therapist, Annie, is waiting dutifully by the reception desk. I don’t even need to explain why I’m here, as I’m soon whisked downstairs into the diminutive but serious health club, where there’s also a gym and treatment room – the former open to guests and members only, the latter to non-guests by appointment. I’ve been booked in for an hour-long facial, but there’s a range of massages, rituals capped with detoxifying smoothies, and a range of waxes, too. Temple Spa products are used in the treatment room and it smells summery and fresh, the fluffiest of robes hangs by the door, for guests to discreetly slip into as their therapist waits outside. Before getting started, there’s the usual healthfocused questionnaire, but it’s not just questions about if you’re expecting or if you require an epi-pen at the merest sniff of lavender – no, this comes with diagrams and such, and I’m thrilled to see that you can choose how you’d like to feel afterwards and determine the therapists level of chattiness, the kind of attention to detail I’ve come to love and respect in other high-end spas. PAGE 10 We discuss and decide that my dry skin and work-slumped shoulders need some attention. True to her word, Annie works her magic on my face without a
peep (except once to check the pressure), stroking and gently prodding it into willing submission. Temple Spa products get to work on my skin: a cleanse and tone with the dewy-skin-making ‘In the Beginning’, ‘Double Cream’ moisturising, a touch of eye-bag brightening with ‘Windows of the Soul’, nutrient-packed exfoliation with ‘Breakfast Smoothie’, and a ‘Quench’ masque to finish. In addition to having my visage gently scrubbed and patted, my head, neck and shoulders are massaged. The terrible knots that build in my shoulders usually inspire masseurs to go hell-for-leather, swiftly moving from soothing Swedish strokes to a WWF smackdown, but Annie’s touch is firm yet yielding and so relaxing that I almost dropoff twice – a rarity for a spa veteran such as myself, who intends to stay awake to ‘feel the benefit’. Altogether the experience is a resounding recipe for soft, fragrant, dewy skin, I find as I look in the mirror after. Afterwards, my psoriasis-plagued ‘problem areas’ are far less problematic – strokable even – if it weren’t so odd to stroke someone’s eyebrows. What to do after such a revivifying wellness experience? Hit up a juice bar, perhaps? A brisk HIIT session? Well, you could hop into Dukes Italian marble steam room if you’re feeling virtuous. Or, you could hop upstairs to the – somewhat less wholesome, but immensely fun – cognac and cigar terrace. Oh well, you can always salvage the damage with another spa visit…
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BEAUTY GADGETS ARE GO
‘THIS IS WHAT ALL THE
CELEBRITIES HAVE BEEN
POSTING ON THEIR INSTAGRAMS,
SHOWING THEIR FACES COVERED IN WHAT APPEARS TO BE BLOOD.’
THE LADY IS A VAMP The quest for beauty gets gory as guest writer MELANIE NORDMAN tries Epilium & Skin’s Vampire Facial… Located conveniently in the heart of Marylebone, on a relatively quiet street off bustling Baker Street, lies a little place of beautification wonders, Epillium & Skin, a salon with serious yet pampering treatments. My first impression on visiting is good; the salon’s style is contemporary chic, the waiting room is all clean lines, with a hint of London trendiness: pastel leather couches and dark-grey walls adorned with a single bespoke fluorescent light illuminating the salon’s name. The attention to detail in the decor is a reassuring first sight, when knowing you are about to have a beauty treatment that involves multiple injections. Also reassuring: Epillium & Skin has been around in France for over 15 years, with a focus on a medical approach to beauty. Feeling somewhat anxious but also intrepid, I wander into the lobby, unsure exactly of what Platelet-Rich Plasma (‘PRP’) treatments entail – heralded as being at the forefront of beautybased medical treatments, they’re often referred to as the ‘Vampire Facelift’. Utilising your own platelets, this facelift allows you to harness your body’s regenerative properties to look fresher and younger. Yes, this is the one all the celebrities have been posting on their Instagram, showing their faces covered in what appears to be blood. PRP treatments are more than a celebrity fad. Hold on tight for a mini biology lesson: the noninvasive process involves taking a small sample of blood, which is then spun in a centrifuge in order to separate the platelet-rich plasma from other denser components such as red and white blood cells. This plasma is then re-injected into the face where it gradually releases growth factors to help stimulate collagen production and fibroblasts, and assists in new blood-vessel formation to treat a myriad of beauty complaints, from acne scarring to wrinkling to thinning hair (injections into the scalp can help to encourage hair growth). The – anticipated – result? Tighter, plumper and rejuvenated skin, though this happens gradually in the six weeks following on from the treatment. For me, the treatment was a lovely experience. After arriving at Epilium & Skin, I was greeted by the
KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
friendly nurse who would also do my treatment. After I was given an iPad to fill out a form about my medical history, I was ushered into a very clean room, centred around a reclining treatment chair. The nurse answered all of my burning questions, reassured me about my fears, and considered my medical and skin history carefully. She recommended an alteration to the treatment to work around my sensitive skin and we began. First, my blood was painlessly taken, and placed in a centrifuge. Then as we waited for the PRP to separate, I was given a soft blanket under which to relax, and my face was carefully cleansed. I was then covered in an anaesthetic cream to numb any pain from the upcoming injections. While I waited for both the centrifuging process and for the numbing cream to take effect, I was given an iPad complete with Netflix to relax as I waited. At this point, I decided I wouldn’t mind living in Epilium & Skin’s treatment room forever. When the nurse returned, we cleansed my face and began the injecting process. I barely felt a thing as my plasma was re-injected into my face, and as the nurse worked we discussed how more cosmetic treatments these days stem from a common theory: that utilising properties from our own bodies will drive regeneration and youthfulness. The Vampire Facelift is a popular option (those celebrity photos certainly gave the treatment a PR boost) with around 20 clients undergoing the treatment at Epilium & Skin a week. It certainly feels good to have a non-invasive beauty treatment that is rooted in medical theory. Though results are hard to interpret – there is no universal measure of skin plumpness that I know of, so it comes down to subjective interpretation. Starting at £450 a session, the treatment isn’t light on the pocket; however, now two weeks postVampire Facelift, my skin is looking decidedly fresh and plump. Is it £450 worth of fresh? I seem to think so, as I will be booking myself in for another round soon.
LISA CURTISS touches up with tech…
1.
1. DAFNI ALLURE This is the ultimate on-the-go styling tool, enabling you to straighten your hair quickly where ever you are. Cordless, compact and designed to fit comfortably in the palm of your hand, the Allure is easy to hold and use whether you are on a train, plane or in a car. Long-lasting batteries mean the straightener is always ready to go, and the unique ‘Curved Core Technology’ it adopts means even the roots closest to the scalp can be targeted for optimum long-lasting styling results. It features heat-resistant, scalp-protecting brush tips too, so no painful burns. Available from www.dafnihair.com £155
2.
2. WATERPIK CORDLESS WATER FLOSSER Just launched in the UK, this smile-enhancing wonder is three times more effective at cleaning between your teeth than dental floss, and it’s more eco-friendly. Used as part of your daily routine, this clever beauty gadget has a tiny high-pressure jet to instantly flush any debris from the tooth and gum area, removing 99.9 per cent of plaque. It’s gentle enough for even sensitive gums, too, and as it rotates 360 degrees, you can reach all areas of your mouth for a squeaky-clean pearly smile. Available UK wide £54.99
Epilium & Skin, 25–27 George Street, Marylebone, W1U 3QA www.epilium.co.uk PAGE 62
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ADVERTORIAL
INTRODUCING: DR FIONA MCCARTHY CHELSEA’S BEST KEPT SECRET FOR SUBTLE SKIN TRANSFORMATION When it comes to investing in your skin – we all want that beautiful, glowing result and there seems to be no shortage of ‘miracle creams’ and snazzy-sounding treatments out there to tempt you. But where to begin? Who should you trust with your most precious asset – your face? Introducing Dr Fiona McCarthy – Chelsea’s newest expert skincare resident. A consultant oncologist with nearly two decades of medical experience, Dr Fiona offers an expert pair of hands when it comes to facial aesthetics. As a busy mother of two herself, Dr Fiona understands all too well how self-care can often fall to the bottom of the list and has dedicated her aesthetic career to helping women restore and reclaim their health, beauty and inner vibrancy through the highest quality, proven treatments and products. Now practicing from the Chelsea Private clinic, Dr Fiona offers a unique approach to beauty, wellness and ageing – using bespoke, holistic treatments to restore and rejuvenate her patients from the inside out. BE RESTORED, BE REVIVED, BE YOU Dr Fiona is renowned for her subtle yet transformative results and has a passion for a holistic and preventative approach to ageing. She offers only the highest quality award-winning aesthetic treatments, including wrinkle-relaxing injections, dermal-filler, PDO threads, chemical peels, medical microneedling, Profhilo skin rejuvenation and cosmeceutical skincare. Women’s wellness is central to Dr Fiona’s ethos, so she is particularly proud to offer ThermiVa - the industry-leading feminine rejuvenation treatment - having trained with top consultant gynaecologist Prof. Jim Dornan to help women restore their confidence following childbirth. Caring and kindness are central to Dr Fiona’s approach and she firmly believes in going the extra mile for her patients. Whether this is just coming in for a bit of advice and talk
KENSINGTON & CHELSEA REVIEW
through to concerns or proceeding with a treatment – patients can rely on her expert support. RESET YOUR SKIN FOR SPRING So what would Dr Fiona recommend to get skin ready for Spring-Summer 2019? Many people find their skin is stuck in a dull, depleted state following the long winter months, with harsh weather and central heating playing havoc with skin’s delicate balance. Now newly launching at the Chelsea Private Clinic, Dr Fiona’s Spring Skin Reset treatment offers the ultimate kickstart remedy to revive those worn winter complexions. This two-step regime begins with a bespoke facial peel to lift away those months of neglect - using either glycolic, mandelic or lactic acid formulations depending on the individual skin needs - whether oily / acne-prone, or sensitive, rosacea types. This is followed by Profhilo - injecting super-hydrating fluid hyaluronic acid into five key points around each side of the face to deliver the ultimate skin glow. Finally, to keep your beautiful spring skin in pristine condition, all patients receive a complimentary cleanser and SPF to use from home. Dr Fiona says: “This tailored treatment combination is so good for resetting the skin and kickstarting the natural collagen renewal process. After just two weeks the skin feels fresher, the pores are tighter and you get that wonderful healthy glow that gets people asking what your skincare secret is... After six weeks your own collagen starts really kicking in and it’s an even better effect that lasts around 4-6 months - my patients love it!” The Spring Skin Reset treatment – from £799 For more information and to book your bespoke skin consultation with Dr Fiona, please contact: drfionamccarthy@gmail.com / 0207 565 0333 The Chelsea Private Clinic, The Courtyard, 250 Kings Road, London, SW3 5UE
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“MY STYLE IS ABOUT SUBTLE ENHANCEMENTS & HELPING PATIENTS LOOK LIKE THE BEST VERSION OF THEMSELVES – HEALTHY, RESTED & REJUVENATED – NOT SUSPICIOUSLY WRINKLE-FREE OR OVER-DONE.” PAGE 37
SCENTS OF SUMMER
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We’ve selected a gorgeous range of very special fragrances to wear this season. Some are distinctive, unusual and memorable newcomers and others sophisticated favourites – all perfect as a finishing touch. 1. DULCEO BY CŪRATA With unique, heavenly notes of frangipani and decadent rich cocoa, sweetened with orange and finished with tropical florals, Dulceo is perfect for hot summer nights. This awardwinning fragrance is all natural, too, with no synthetics or aroma chemicals, so it’s kinder to your skin. www.curatabeauty.com, US$215 for 30 ml EDP.
1. BEE YÜ CLEANSE, TIGHTEN AND REGENERATE FACE MASQUE This much-loved, bestselling, New Zealand-based luxury skincare brand is new to the UK, but it’s already proving a hit with beauty experts country-wide. A favourite product is its new Cleanse, Tighten and Regenerate Face Masque. Made with 11 active ingredients including super-potent and antimicrobial manuka honey and also bee venom, which – when used in small amounts – tricks the skin into thinking it has been stung so it produces healing and plumping collagen. An amount from each sale goes to help save bumblebees across the UK, too. Available from www.beeyuskincare.co.uk, £88
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2. ENCORE UNE FOIS BY ART DE PARFUM A special limited-edition, Encore Une Fois features rare, ethically sourced and cruelty free all-natural materials. Inspired by creator Ruta Degutyte’s love of the earthy, organic smells of the ocean, the fragrance is introduced with fresh citrus notes, mellowing to powder-soft violets and earthy ambergris, finishing with the velvety darkness of smoky balsams, resins, and patchouli. The scent uses precious oils and absolutes to recreate the delicious fragrance of sun-kissed skin. www.artdeparfum.com, £160 for 50ml EDP. 3. NYC FRAGRANCE COLLECTION BY KIERIN Long-lasting, distinctive, vegan and cruelty free: this new collection of premium eau du parfums is definitely worth seeking out. Nitro Noir, 10am Flirt, Santal Sky and Sunday Brunch all evoke the cool and effervescent vibe of the city and are designed to be appreciated by all genders. Nitro Noir is sweet and spicy, Flirt is fresh and green – think Central Park in Spring – Sunday Brunch citrusy and cheerful, and Santal Sky woody and warming. All have higher than usual concentrations of fragrance ingredients which are sustainably sourced, and recyclable packaging too. Available at Harvey Nichols or www.kierin-nyc.com, £65 each 4. ORANGE DE BAHIA BY BOUCHERON Perfectly evoking balmy, exotic summer evenings, this delicious fragrance from Boucheron features top notes of vibrant orange and mandarin, a heart of soft rose, fig and coconut, mellowing to a lasting finish of amber woods and white cedar. Memorable and utterly feminine. Exclusive to Harrods www.harrods.com), £175 for 125ml EDP.
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5. SANTAL BLANC BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS This luxurious, sophisticated fragrance is inspired by the purity, softness and calm of the colour white. Mandarin and fig are tempered by soft woody notes and violet, mellowing to a rich, warming tonka bean and musk finish. Exclusive to Harrods www.harrods.com),£130 for 75ml EDP.
Uncover your naturally radiant complexion this season with some new and innovative, luxury skinperfecting products.
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SUMMER SKINCARE SPECIALS
2. I MASK PURIFYING PROBIOTIC MASK Featuring green clay and activated charcoal, this innovative mask absorbs impurities from the skin, and delivers optimal hydration and clarity. Fortifying probiotics help to balance the skin and support its naturally occurring flora, and the mask has a host of vitamins, minerals and superfruit antioxidants to nourish the skin and leave it radiant and glowing. Available from www.imageskincare.co.uk, £45 3. CAVIAR EXPERT INSTANT ACTION SUPER FACE SERUM This latest wonder product by cult beauty brand, Natura Siberica, has fast become a firm beauty-fan favourite. Not only does the lightweight serum contain the hero ingredient hyaluronic acid, but it also contains colloidal gold, known for its antioxidant content, anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties. Added to this already powerful blend is colloidal platinum, another precious metal known for its antioxidant properties, black caviar and cellrepairing collagen extracts to leave skin feeling softer, with a natural, healthy glow. And it’s free from parabens, mineral oil and other nasties, too. Available at www.naturasiberica.co.uk, £38 4. ARTISTRY SIGNATURE SELECT™ PERSONALIZED SERUM Featuring a universal base serum, which contains a blend of five Nutrilite™ sourced ingredients: acerola cherry, blackcurrant, green tea, pomegranate and spinach extracts, it is formulated to quickly penetrate the skin’s surface and help repair its appearance. Depending on each individual’s skin concerns, you choose up to three concentrated Amplifiers for Hydration, Brightening, Anti-Wrinkle, Firming or Anti-Spot – all clinically proven to improve the visible signs of aging. These Amplifiers can be freshly mixed into the base serum by twisting the cap to infuse and activate targeted ingredients. Available www.amway.com from £68.
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ELIXIR YOUTH
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Can you really drink your way to younger looking skin? SARAH RODRIGUES trialled beauty drink Skinade to find out.
‘Users have also reported healthier, stronger hair and nails, not to mention a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.’ A healthy diet, water, rest and SPF: we all know that skin suffers in the absence of these, but the other magic ingredient for a youthful complexion is, quite simply, youth - and, unlike salmon and avocado, this one is a little harder to come by. The plump, moist skin of youth is the handiwork of the protein collagen, which we lose the ability to produce as we get older, breaking it down more rapidly than we can replace it. Once this starts, the skin gradually loses its dewiness, with fine lines, wrinkles and dryness taking its place. Collagen-containing creams and serums claim to alleviate the effects of this depletion, but since these only work on the top layer of the skin, any improvements seen are due to increased hydration; after all, collagen loss happens in the inner, dermal layer. Injectables don’t have this limitation, but are dogged by the risk of unsightly bruising, as well as the simple realities of cost and upkeep - not to mention squeamishness around needles. There are issues around ingestion too, such as the efficacy of collagen capsules being compromised by passage through the digestive system. That’s a tick in the box of liquid collagen, which is more readily assimilated - but even then, another obstacle is that collagen molecules are simply too large to be absorbed by the bloodstream, no matter what form they come in. Daily beauty drink Skinade, however, contains 7000 mg of hydrolysed collagen. In basic terms, this means that the collagen molecules have been broken down into peptides with a low molecular weight, which make for readier absorption. Added to this, the presence of these fragmented molecules is thought to trick the body into believing that collagen destruction has taken place, thus triggering the repair mechanisms to produce more collagen, as well as more elastin and hyaluronic acid, which is necessary for hydration.
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With all of this going on under the surface, what visible results can be expected from adding Skinade to one’s daily beauty regime? The boost it gives to hydration has shown impressive results on eczema and psoriasis sufferers; users have also reported healthier, stronger hair and nails, not to mention a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Testimonials aside, I went to Kensington’s Santi clinic to for a series of before and after tests - after all, it’s one thing for me to peer in the mirror; quite another to have a professional insight. It was explained to me that my lifestyle and skincare regime would have to be consistent over the two month trial period for the results to be measured clearly; during this time, however, I spent a week in the dry desert warmth of Arizona and another two weeks in a scorching hot Sydney summer. Even so, when I went back for my second set of measurements, hydration was up by 18% and collagen by 17%, with elasticity having improved by a whopping 67% - pretty impressive for skin in its forties. Collagen is shown in the scans by the presence of yellow; the increase in mass is obvious even to my untrained eye. Skinade tastes quite pleasant - it’s faintly sweet and fruity but with results like that, I’d be continuing to drink it daily even if it made me gag. Developed by UK scientists and manufactured in Britain, Skinade is currently available in 1,000 stockists nationwide as well as on www.skinade.com. Sold in courses of 30 (£105), 60 (£210) and 90 (£315) days, it is also available in a 15ml travel sachet, which you simply dilute in water. My skin measurements were taken at Santi London, 33 Thurloe St, SW7 2LQ, Kensington www.santilondon.com
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Compact city run-arounds are great for daily use, but nothing beats a stylish and spacious SUV-type car to escape to the coast and country for blissful weekend breaks. Three of our favourites are brought to you by our motoring editor, LISA CURTISS
ESCAPING THE CITY IN SUMMER SUVS
MOTORING
IMAGES: LUKE PENNEY
MOTORING
PEUGEOT 5008 This is an award-winning and popular SUV, which cleverly combines style and practicality. Fans praise its premium materials and finishes, high build quality and innovative and advanced tech. A spacious seven-seater, it’s more than capable of meeting a busy family’s every vehicular need, from carrying large and awkward loads – thanks to rear-row seating that can be completely removed – to providing a cosseting, comfortable cross-country mode of regular transport. An engaging drive, the 5008 comes in a choice of smooth and economical engines, all offering pleasing performance and respectfully low CO2s given the vehicle’s large dimensions. It’s tech-rich, too: there’s a raft of innovative gadgetry and systems, and all specs are well-appointed. A good-looking and highly practical car, perfect for the whole family to escape the city in and venture out to enjoy our beautiful countryside this summer in comfort and style.
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SEAT TARRACO The company’s newest flagship model was only released in the UK just a few weeks ago. This handsome and substantial seven-seater ticks all the boxes – masterfully mixing state-ofthe-art technology, dynamic and agile handling, practicality and functionality with an elegant, progressive design. Standing out against competitors who cost significantly more, the Tarraco has a premium look and feel, with high-quality, durable and aesthetically pleasing materials and finishes. There’s oodles of space for the whole family to travel in comfort and neat touches like seat-back trays and drink-holders too. Visibility for all is very good – the driver enjoys a command position, and large windows and a high ride mean views normally blocked by countryside hedges can be savoured. The boot – when the two third-row seats are down – is large enough for everything from golf clubs to cases. The Tarraco is super comfortable even during longer journeys with acres of head, shoulder and leg space throughout. The cabin is tech-rich too, including one of the best info-tainment systems and excellent realview camera for pitch-perfect parking. Out on the road it’s a really pleasurable drive – remarkably agile with plenty of feel, and frugal too, thanks to a super-efficient directinjection, turbo-charge engine range with start-stop emitting low CO2s. A genuinely great, versatile family car.
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MOTORING
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DS 7 CROSSBACK This is another new flagship model, offering a refreshingly different alternative to the raft of rather formulaic SUVs on the market. Interesting – quirky, even – the DS 7 breaks the rules when it comes to design, inside and out. Ideal as a family car, meticulous attention was paid to the model’s cabin to ensure it provides exceptional travelling comfort. The engineers in charge of the project approached the design of its interior as they might that of a lounge in a home, with the accent on space, occupant friendliness, soundproofing and connectivity, all areas in which motorists are becoming increasingly demanding. Neat touches like seats with a massage function are included, too. Out on the road, the DS 7 is a spritely, capable and engaging drive, thanks to its smooth and swift advanced gearing and engine, with a good degree of useable torque.
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