VINEYAR VINEYARD YAR Y D for viticulturists in Great Britain ™
FEBRUARY 2022
Vines on the Hog's Back
INSIDE
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Digging deep
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Meet the buyer
Show will return
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Talented at pink fizz
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Preparing for pruning season
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VINEYARD CONSULTANTS
• Vineyard sales & acquisition • Planning applications • Business plans • Environmental schemes • Grants •
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www.vineyardmagazine.co.uk VINEYARD Kelsey Media, The Granary, Downs Court Yalding Hill, Yalding, Maidstone, Kent, ME18 6AL 01959 541444 EDITORIAL Editor: Christian Davis vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk GRAPHIC DESIGN Jo Legg Flair Creative Design jo.legg@flair-design.co.uk ADVERTISEMENT SALES Jamie McGrorty 01303 233883 jamie.mcgrorty@kelsey.co.uk PHOTOGRAPHER Martin Apps www.countrywidephotographic.co.uk MANAGEMENT CHIEF EXECUTIVE: Steve Wright CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER: Phil Weeden MANAGING DIRECTOR: Kevin McCormick PUBLISHER: Jamie McGrorty RETAIL DIRECTOR: Steve Brown RENEWALS AND PROJECTS MANAGER: Andy Cotton SENIOR SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING MANAGER: Nick McIntosh SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING DIRECTOR: Gill Lambert SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING MANAGER: Kate Chamberlain SENIOR PRINT PRINT PRODUCTION MANAGER: Georgina Harris PRINT PRODUCTION CONTROLLER: Kelly Orriss DISTRIBUTION Distribution in Great Britain: Marketforce (UK) 3rd Floor, 161 Marsh Wall, London, E14 9AP Tel: 0330 390 6555 PRINTING Precision Colour Print Kelsey Media 2022 © all rights reserved. Kelsey Media is a trading name of Kelsey Publishing Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part is forbidden except with permission in writing from the publishers. Note to contributors: articles submitted for consideration by the editor must be the original work of the author and not previously published. Where photographs are included, which are not the property of the contributor, permission to reproduce them must have been obtained from the owner of the copyright. The editor cannot guarantee a personal response to all letters and emails received. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor or the Publisher. Kelsey Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services offered by third parties. Kelsey Media takes your personal data very seriously. For more information of our privacy policy, please visit Kelsey Media takes your personal data very seriously. For more information of our privacy policy, please visit https://www.kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy/ . If at any point you have any queries regarding Kelsey’s data policy you can email our Data Protection Officer at dpo@kelsey.co.uk.
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NEWS 8
WSET announces new CEO
10 Platinum cuvée to celebrate Queen’s anniversary
12 English wine producers named in '50 Most Influential People in British Luxury' list
14 Hybrid London Wine Fair to take place
REGULARS 16 The Vineyard & Winery Show
With the storming success of the inaugural show, five major sponsors have all signed up for this year's show.
20 In conversation...
Master of wine, Richard Bampfield is a well known figure in the UK wine trade as a master of wine, wine educator and the face of one of Britain’s leading multiple retailers.
22 Matthew Jukes
The UK is incredibly talented at making pink fizz.
32 The agronomy diary
Bring more precision to soil testing.
41 The vine post
Cultivating your vineyard’s potential.
44 Performing sensory assessments 46 Representing you Focus areas for 2022.
51 Machinery
Cutting the cost of pulling out.
Front cover image: Greyfriars © Martin Apps, Countrywide Photographic
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CONTENTS Features Meet the buyer
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Jamie Waugh is wine buyer for Fortnum & Mason, the world famous, prestigious retailer on London’s Piccadilly. He is responsible for buying English wines.
Greyfriaring
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From North Sea oil to wine on the Hog’s Back in Surrey, Mike Wagstaff and his wife Hilary, have changed course in more ways than one.
Digging deep
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Quality grapes are needed for premium wines and the health of the soil is a key factor in achieving this. We find out some of the soil management tasks that can be done during the winter dormancy period.
Preparing for pruning season
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With the winter pruning season now here, NP Seymour revisit some of the updates Felco has made to its range in the last 12 months.
n Davis
Ch
ri
a st i
Coming of age
The Vineyard
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TRURO
From the editor
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The news, as Vineyard goes to press, that Freixenet Copestick, the UK and Ireland subsidiary of Henkell Freixenet, one of Europe’s, if not the world’s, largest sparkling wine producers, has bought the Sussex-based Bolney wine estate, just goes to show that English and Welsh wines have truly come of age. There is also, of course, Domaine Evremond, the 40 hectare vineyard (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) in Chilham close to Canterbury. That is a joint venture between Champagne Taittinger, its UK agency Hatch Mansfield, and friends. A major, prestigious, Champagne house would not be doing that, risking its reputation, by investing in the UK, if it was not confident that it could produce premium English sparkling wines. On top of that Ruth and Charles Simpson, owners of Simpsons in Kent, won a major award in the 2022’s Walpole Power List, citing them as one of the '50 Most Influential People in British Luxury’. Well done to them. Then we have Greyfriars’ Mike Wagstaff making a ‘Platinum’ blend of his Cuvée Royale fizz to celebrate the Queen’s Platinum anniversary of her accession in 1952. Well, the Henkell Freixenet/Bolney deal; Simpsons getting that award and Mike Wagstaff having the confidence to make a great sparkler to go with the Queen’s ‘Platinum Pudding’ shows the professionalism and confidence that now exudes from English and Welsh winemakers and producers. As mentioned in the profile on me in the last issue, I was derided in the early 2000s by master of wine Tim Atkin, then editor of Harpers, when I came back from a tasting of English wines, raving about the quality of the wines I had tasted. I got a mixed case sent to him and he ruefully admitted subsequently that he was out of date in his opinions of English wines. It was a commonly held belief that wines made here were, generally speaking, made by bored, possibly eccentric, landowners, who were by their very nature, enthusiastic amateurs. Not so any more. English wines have undoubtedly come of age. Many producers cannot meet demand. There are far worse signs than ‘sold out’, particularly in these troubling times. English and Welsh wines have definitely stepped up to the plate, pudding or no pudding. A footnote: With all the fuss and scandal concerning the beleaguered Prime Minister Boris Johnson and the Downing Street parties, looking at the pictures of people sitting out in the Downing Street garden drinking wine, one wonders whether they were drinking English or Welsh wines…They certainly should have been. Food, or in this case, wine for thought…
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WSET announces new CEO The Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET), the leading global provider of wine, spirits and sake qualifications, has appointed Michelle Brampton as its new CEO. Michelle will join WSET on 1 February as CEO designate and will spend two months working alongside current CEO Ian Harris, who steps down on 15 April. Brampton previously spent 19 years at Treasury Wine Estates (TWE), where
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she most recently held the role of managing director Europe, Middle East and Africa (EMEA) from 2018 to 2021. During this time Michelle was also on the boards of both The Drinks Trust and the Wine & Spirit Trade Association (WSTA). Earlier in her time at TWE, she is said to have gained international and commercial leadership experience as commercial director UK & Ireland
and as CFO, EMEA and South East Asia. Chair of WSET board, Simon McMurtrie said: “The trustees are delighted that Michelle has accepted our invitation to lead WSET in the coming years. Michelle’s track record at Treasury Wine Estates and, more recently her wider role in the drinks trade, make her the ideal successor to Ian, following his remarkable 20 years as CEO”. “Under Ian’s leadership, the WSET has experienced spectacular growth. When Ian joined the business in 2002, 10,000 students were enrolled annually – two thirds of them from the UK. In the last academic year over 108,000 students in 70 countries around the world took one of the WSET’s nine qualifications, with 87% from outside the UK. On behalf of the global drinks trade and all WSET trustees, past and present, I would like to pay tribute to Ian’s exceptional achievements”. Ian Harris said: “I am really pleased to be passing the WSET baton into Michelle’s very capable hands. With the breadth and depth of her experience, she will lead the organisation into a new era of business growth, navigating WSET through today’s increasingly challenging global landscape. I have enjoyed every single day at WSET since I joined back in 2002. Thanks to the talented people in my team over the last two decades, we have overcome many challenges – particularly over the past two years. It has been my pleasure, and absolute privilege, to lead such a great organisation. I will remain WSET’s most passionate ambassador”. Michelle Brampton said: “I am thrilled and honoured to be asked to lead such a globally renowned and respected organisation as the WSET. I am passionate about the drinks trade and believe that education is a true enabler for success for both individuals and businesses. I am looking forward to getting to know the team and leading the organisation through its next chapter”. Alongside existing trustees, Simon McMurtrie (chair), Dan Jago, Jo Locke and Allen Gibbons, WSET has also made four new appointments to its board. Miles Beale, chief executive, WSTA and Jo Thornton, managing director, Moet Hennessy Europe join as representatives of the Vintners’ Company. Lulie Halstead, CEO, Wine Intelligence and Sukhinder Singh, managing director, The Whisky Exchange join as representatives of the WSTA. They all join with immediate effect. They take over from Troy Christensen, Rick Connor, Susan McCraith and Michael Turner, who have come to the end of their terms as trustees. Photo: Joel Jorgensen
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NEWS
Platinum cuvée to celebrate Queen’s anniversary Greyfriars’ owner, Mike Wagstaff is planning to release a platinum cuvée of his limited edition Cuvée Royale sparkling wine by way of celebration of the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee this year. The owner of the Greyfriars vineyard on the Hog’s Back near Guildford, Surrey, revealed his plans to Vineyard magazine. His Cuvée Royale is normally a traditional blend of Chardonnay/Pinot Noir. Mike has yet to decide on the final blend for his ‘Platinum’ cuvée. Cuvée Royale normally retails for £32. Mike expects to produce approximately 3,000 individually numbered bottles. Mike Wagstaff told Vineyard: “We released our first Prestige Cuvée, the Cuvée Royale around the time of the last Royal Wedding and it has improved with age winning a major trophy in the 2021 WineGB competition. It is only fitting that the second release of this really special wine will celebrate Her Majesty’s Platinum anniversary. “I think the Platinum Cuvée Royale will be a brilliant accompaniment to the Platinum pudding and we are working hard on our own recipe to pair with this wine”. The Platinum Jubilee of Elizabeth II is being marked this year, in recognition of the 70th anniversary of the accession of Queen Elizabeth II on 6 February, 1952.
Rawlings and Vigo merge to offer complete processing and packaging solution
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Rawlings state that the merger brings together Rawlings’ portfolio of primary packaging solutions and Vigo’s comprehensive processing equipment and consumables offering for clients in the premium drinks market, with expansion to deliver an end-to-end solution for premium food, health, and beauty brands. The primary objective was to combine Rawlings’ expertise delivering off-the-shelf and bespoke glass packaging, graphic design, branding and decoration with Vigo’s tailored drink production systems, which include equipment, configuration, technical adaptions, installation, and full support from their team of engineers, providing clients with a complete packaging and production solution in one place. The move allows both Rawlings and Vigo to increase the capacity, efficiency, and scale of their existing offerings. Both Vigo and Rawlings will continue to trade at their existing premises and the same dedicated team
F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D
and support remain in place. Rawlings’ managing director Tom Wood, said: “We are excited to be joining forces with the Vigo team. There is a tremendous fit around people, values and purpose making this is a very natural and organic expansion. Both businesses will extend their capabilities to offer incredible value for our clients.” Simon Pitts, managing director of Vigo said: “We are really excited about the opportunities being a part of Rawlings brings. Joining forces allows us to take much bigger strides forward in capacity and offering than we would have been able to do on our own. This will help drive increased value and range for our customers as well as strengthen our backup and support offering. Equally important, the culture and ethics of both businesses are closely aligned, and I have no doubt that the sharing of knowledge will further boost our offering.”
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NEWS
English wine producers named in '50 Most Influential People in British Luxury' list Ruth and Charles Simpson, founders of Simpsons Wine Estate in Kent, have been named as one of the '50 Most Influential People in British Luxury' in the Walpole Power List 2022. At a ceremony on January 11 at the Corinthia Hotel in London, the Simpsons rubbed shoulders with individuals from companies like Chanel, Bentley and the London Philharmonic Orchestra. The owners were recognised in the 'Custodians category – Champions of British-made: advocates protecting craftsmanship and fighting to keep important jobs and skills alive'. Ruth Simpson said: “We were truly stunned to hear about our selection and hugely honoured, especially given the range and quality of the existing Walpole brand members and the size of our business comparatively to many others. We are very committed to Walpole as an organisation and are delighted to have been recognised in this way.” Helen Brocklebank, CEO of Walpole, added: “As we emerge from another challenging year, but one that our members have weathered with creativity and great stamina, it is a complete joy to recognise the talent of the people working tirelessly to further British luxury, applying their ingenuity, entrepreneurship and sheer graft to making the sector better, more beautiful, more resilient and even more alluring to an affluent, discerning customer.”
Freixenet Copestick buys Bolney
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Freixenet Copestick has entered the burgeoning English wine market, buying the Sussex-based Bolney wine estate. Bolney, on the road to Brighton, near Gatwick, has a portfolio of awardwinning sparkling and still wines. It was founded in 1972 by Janet and Rodney Pratt and is now run by their daughter, and winemaker, Sam Linter. Freixenet Copestick is the UK and Ireland subsidiary of Henkell Freixenet. MD Robin Copestick said: “The sparkling wines are excellent and the business is excellently run by Sam Linter.” As part of the deal, Linter will work with the Henkell Freixenet and Freixenet Copestick teams. Copestick said: “Together we aim to realise the opportunities of English sparkling wine and continue to grow Bolney Wine Estate’s position.” Referring to the move as a ‘new chapter for Bolney Wine Estate’, Sam Linter said: “Over the past 50 years my family and I have worked hard to
F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D
bring Bolney to where it is today. “I am now very much looking forward to working with Freixenet Copestick and helping to develop Bolney within the group nationally and internationally.” As producers of Champagne, Crémant, Cava, Prosecco and sparkling wines of various origins, Henkell Freixenet said it was “delighted” to add English sparkling wine to its portfolio. “We are convinced that as the global market leader in the sparkling wine market, we can further strengthen the image of English sparkling nationally and internationally,” CEO Dr Andreas Brokemper said. The wines of Bolney will be available immediately from the Freixenet Copestick sales team as well as Jascots Wine Merchants — the London on-trade supplier bought out of administration by Freixenet Copestick in December 2020.
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NEWS
Hybrid London Wine Fair to take place The organisers of the London Wine Fair have confirmed that 2022 will be a ‘hybrid’ event for the first time. The 2022 edition returns to Olympia after a two-year hiatus, as well as the fair’s 40th live show – a milestone for what the organiser claims to be the longest running annual drinks trade event. The live element will take place in the normal mid-May timing from 16-18 May. The digital element will run a week earlier from 9-10 May. As a hybrid event, The London Wine Fair is set to be the most intelligent wine event in the world, claims London Wine Fair. Taking place both digitally and in person, the 2022 Fair will give exhibitors access to a larger trade audience and will allow visitors, unable to travel to either London or the UK, access to the exhibitors, their wines, and the show’s content. The digital element will also extend the reach of the show beyond the three physical days as access to digital stands and content will also be available for three months, between May and July. The live London Wine Fair will comprise the familiar, key elements of the show; the Trading Floor will host UK agents, international brands and generic bodies; Esoterica will return to the gallery level, with approximately 100 boutique importers expected to take part; Drinks Britannia
will be a celebration of British drinks, spanning wines, spirits, beers and ciders; Wines Unearthed will feature wineries looking to export to the UK for the first time; and The Discovery Zone will host products and services championing innovation within the drinks industry at large. Non-alcoholic and low alcohol products will be given a dedicated platform for the first time, to reflect the burgeoning low and no sector. Content will be a key part of the 2022 hybrid event, with both the digital and live elements both hosting a programme of seminars, masterclasses and industry briefings. The in-person sessions each accommodate from 50 to 150 participants, depending on the format. The digital sessions will have a significantly larger reach. At last year’s 100% digital event, 28 sessions were hosted, which were streamed more than 6,000 times between May and July. In terms of content, The fair will focus on specific themes for 2022. Recovery of the drinks industry will be a key issue for debate and will straddle the double impact of Covid-19 and Brexit, and its effects across all sectors of the trade. Sustainability and the drinks industry’s role in tackling climate change will also be key themes for this year. Event Director Hannah Tovey said: “From
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managing the impact of cancelling the 2020 show only two months out, to creating a 100% digital show in a matter of weeks for 2021, the last two years have been something of a roller coaster. “From speaking with our exhibitors, we know there is a huge appetite for getting back to Olympia and back to normal trading and we look forward to delivering a special 40th London Wine Fair in 2022.” The 2020 event was cancelled as the UK went into lockdown in March of that year and the 2021 event took place virtually; it was the first drinks exhibition of its size to move to an entirely digital format. The 40th Anniversary had been due to take place in 2020; many of the initiatives planned to celebrate this will now be scheduled for 2022.
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Mereworth rebrands Mereworth Wines has rebranded its bottles with, what it claims is, a style of elegant simplicity, to match the quality of the liquid inside. Mereworth Wines released their first vintage of English sparkling wine, in April 2020. It has now released its second vintage of wines, and has consolidated this with two gins and an aperitif, all made at the winery. Reflecting on 2021, owner William Boscawen expressed his gratitude to fans of Mereworth Wines for their part in such a successful year, giving “a huge thank you to those of you who have followed our journey from the very beginning, and to those of you who have discovered us over the past year, championing our drinks and our new ventures with such enthusiasm” Mereworth’s range of winemaker’s spirits includes two gins, as well as its Marourde Aperitif. “With the release of our second vintage of sparkling wines, it was important for us that the outside of our bottles truly reflected how very special the contents are within,” said William. “The only option available to us when we released our first vintage at the start of a global pandemic was to print our original labels ourselves, so the elegant simplicity of our new branding really is a step up.” One of the company’s main highlights this year, has been the introduction of hospitality at the winery. Works to expand the production and tank rooms have freed up space in the winery, allowing for the creation of an intimate space for guests to enjoy a drink, as well as tours and tastings, dining experiences and private events. This has given the team at the winery the chance to interact with their guests, while working alongside some chefs at pop-up dining events, with plans for many more this coming year. “Our 2021 harvest was our most difficult yet”, vineyard manager and winemaker, Scott Gebbie, reports. “But has taught us that our hard work throughout the year, maintaining the vineyard with meticulous care and attention, pays off, allowing us to harvest a great crop despite the unfavourable weather.” Mereworth used machine harvesting this year for the first time and found it worked well, getting good quality grapes harvested and up to their winery for pressing at impressive speed. It also reports that in 2021 Mereworth was accredited as a ‘sustainable’ winery. All the energy they use at the winery comes from renewable sources.
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2022
For viticulturists in Great Britain Vitifruit Equipment Sales and Hire
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Show will return for 2022 The first Vineyard & Winery Show show held in November, at the Kent Event Centre, Detling, near Maidstone in Kent, was such a storming success that the organisers, Kelsey Media, publishers of Vineyard magazine, have decided to go ahead with a 2022 exhibition. Five major sponsors, Berlin Packaging, Core Equipment, Hutchinsons, Vititfruit and Royston Labels, have all signed up for this year’s show. All of the elements and features of last year’s show will return – with more to come. The show boasted 2,000 visitors and more than 80 exhibitors. 2022 will see more exhibition space made available in the John Hendry Hall, with a greater
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number of exhibitors expected to book. With demand high if you are interested in exhibiting please get in touch with the Vineyard & Winery Show team as soon as possible. Vineyard publisher Jamie McGrorty said: “You only have to read the testimonials here from our major show sponsors to realise that last November’s show was a huge success. Frankly, we want, not only to repeat it, but build on that success. So watch this space, keep reading
Vineyard, to find out what new elements and surprises we have in store for next November.” “We are so grateful to all our sponsors. Without them it wouldn’t be possible to create such an event, packed full of interest for all growers and wine makers – large and small – as well as ones looking to get into the industry. We are looking forward to working with all our sponsors during 2022 to make our second event >> better than the first – if that’s possible.”
NEW Main Sponsor
Building upon the success of the 2021 Vineyard & Winery show, market leading winery equipment supplier, Core Equipment, will be a major sponsor of the 2022 event. Leading distributors for winery equipment in the UK, Core Equipment, supply high-quality products, including pneumatic grape presses, tanks, fermentation control systems and more from industry trusted manufacturers guaranteed to support evolving businesses. At every stage of the order process, the Core team are on-hand to support and help. Each project is assigned a project manager to ensure that equipment is delivered and installed as smoothly as possible, whilst the Core service team work closely with customers during installation and on an ongoing basis. Jonathan Chaplin, Managing Director of Core Equipment explained: “As the UK’s leading supplier for winery equipment, we wanted to build on the successes from last year’s Vineyard & Winery Show and so were keen to sponsor the 2022 event. The UK wine market is experiencing phenomenal growth at present and the Vineyard Show is right at the heart of this, connecting all sectors of the wine market. Our presence as a main sponsor of the event reflects our position in the industry as a key distributor for winery equipment and it was therefore an obvious decision to attend. The Vineyard & Winery Show is a great way to celebrate the end of harvest and allows us to speak to wine producers on how we can support their growing requirements. We are looking forward to welcoming old and new customers onto our stand at this year’s event”.
Main Sponsor Vitifruit Equipment Sales and Hire Machinery dealer Vitifruit, another sponsor of The Vineyard Show, supplies a broad range of outdoor equipment for vineyards across the UK and takes pride in providing a bespoke service based on each customer’s needs. Richard Witt of Vitifruit said: “The show was a resounding success both for us as exhibitors and our customers based on the feedback we received. There was a good, happy atmosphere from start to finish. "The calibre of visitor was first class, wanting to access plenty of information. Although very little business is concluded on the day plenty of future deals started at the show. "The only real complaint was that the catering was not sufficient to cater for the large number of people with many customers passing comment. Overall Vitifruit Equipment were very happy with the show and are happy to continue as a main sponsor for 2022.”
Main Sponsor Based in Royston near Cambridge, Royston Labels is a privately owned company, established in 1984, with a state-of-the-art production facility, a team of 80 full-time staff and a dedicated drinks label division. Glyn Scriven, Head of Sales – Drinks at Royston Labels, said: “I thought the show was extremely well organised and perfect for the target audience. It was very well attended by both existing and new vineyards. “There was a really good atmosphere – I think a lot of visitors hadn’t visited a show for quite some time due to Covid-19, so the mood and atmosphere was very positive. The facilities were adequate, good. ”The calibre of visitors was very good, from owners, new and existing winemakers – all interested in everything needed to run a successful business. We did and are doing business, with a lot of potential further down the road as new vineyards get to the stage when branding and packaging is required – many leads taken… “Running a targeted show like this, well organised and promoted will always be successful, especially when associated with a successful growing industry,” said Glyn.
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THE VINEYARD & WINERY SHOW
Main Sponsor Main Sponsor Now one of the UK’s leading vineyard agronomy companies, Hutchinsons was keen to sign up as a sponsor of The Vineyard Show. Hutchinsons’ Head of Marketing, Nick Rainsley, said: “The show was an extremely positive event. It was the first real opportunity we have had to showcase agronomy and technical services within a technically-based, industry-focused event. “There are lots of small viticultural events but this was an opportunity to come together and provide real value for those within the industry. Everything under one roof from: land acquisition, preparation, establishment to production and marketing at the end of production. “The atmosphere was great, positive. People were there to learn. So, it was educational but there was a real buzz. The calibre of visitors was excellent. There was a mix from ‘hobby vineyards’ to the larger, professionally established vineyards. All were there to learn and we did some business at the show,” said Nick.
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Long-established packaging company Berlin Packaging is another valued sponsor of The Vineyard Show taking place in November 2022. Mark Crumpton, Berlin Packaging’s business development manager, said: “I thought the show was a real landmark event, having spent time at the larger winery and vineyard shows in the UK and abroad such as VITEFF in Epernay, SITEVI in France, Prowein in Germany and Vinitaly, the Vineyard & Winery Show captured the sense of these shows and brought a real relevance to the UK industry as a whole and how it is maturing; you can really feel it is becoming a serious wine producing country. "The talks, the tastings impressed greatly, it was well attended by many of our established customers and gave a very good opportunity to speak and introduce our company to the next wave of winemakers and grape growers considering setting up in the UK. The venue was good, very open and safe and it was well organised and attended, really looking forward to attending again this year with some more exciting new releases such as our carbon neutral glass bottle we showcased.”
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SALES AND MARKETING
So how did you stumble into the wine trade?
“An early enjoyment of wine and a desire to use my French degree,” says Richard. “Since 1981 – so 40 years,” states the 62-year-old. “I was lucky to work for some inspirational figures in my early career. I spent 10 years working in wine merchants in Manchester and Chester, where both my managers, Robert Shiel and Piers Dutton, had an extraordinary ability to work out which wine would suit a customer without necessarily having enormous wine knowledge themselves.” “They taught me the key lesson that the best choice was normally the wine that suited the occasion and/or the individual rather than the wine that had the so-called best taste. “I then spent 10 years working for Brown Brothers through the 1990’s when Australian wines could do no wrong in the UK market and opportunities were opening up in continental Europe too. It was an exhilarating time and one which saw the transition from Europe-dominated wine shelves in the UK to a more international selection as other countries saw the potential in the channels that Australian wine opened up. “Another key aspect of this period was that Brown Brothers was a brilliantly managed company and I learnt a huge amount about business management, forecasting and budgeting…even though ultimately I decided that those aspects of work were not my personal preferred use of time. “I started working for myself in 1999 and one of my first clients was Yvon Mau who just happened to have set up a wine school at Château Preuillac in the Médoc. “So I spent much of the ensuing 12 years taking groups of wine journalists (Vineyard editor Christian Davis being one of them) and merchants to Bordeaux, hoping to ensure that they returned with an up to date view of what was going on in a region that has always been far more innovative than it is given credit for. It was hugely enjoyable work. It also reminded me of what I had learnt when working in wine shops – that I just love talking about wine,” says Richard emphatically.
What drove you to become a MW?
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“The knowledge that it would help my career. And the confidence that I could do it.” And the most difficult part of becoming a master of wine? “Discipline of practising timed essays and papers,” he says. Richard is more than a ’high and mighty’ MW. There are more strings to his bow. So how does he describe himself? “I still don’t really have an answer to that question. MW is a title, not a job/role. Ultimately most of my work involves communicating about wine, whether through presentations, TV (www.67pallmall.tv) or the written word on-shelf at Lidl. I guess I like to see myself as an enthusiastic and open-minded advocate for good wine,” he adds. He adds: “I am not a buyer at Lidl. They buy the wines. I taste them and ascribe scores, tasting notes, food pairing recommendations, etc. Lidl had two English sparkling wines in its Winter Wine Tour trading period: Broadwood Folly Brut and Broadwood Folly Rosé.”
And what does he regard as his expertise, his passion?
“Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, sustainability. But becoming an MW requires an interest in and curiosity about all aspects of wine, so I try to keep informed about everything that is going on. Apart from no-lo. I find it hard to get enthused about that.”
So, what do you like about the wine trade? “People, humour, camaraderie, travel…and the fact that so much of my current work involves enjoying good wine, good food and good company,” he replies succinctly. Conversely, what frustrates you about the wine trade? “Introspection. And an embarrassment about making money – we tend to look down on the success stories rather than celebrate them.”
If there is one thing you would like to do to improve things, what would that be? “Challenge the way wine is sold and merchandised,” he states.
And your opinion of English and Welsh wines? “Highly positive and I am actively involved in various ways. I also believe that, with still wines in particular, the best are yet to come.” So what are they doing well? “Setting prices high and trying to keep them there. Hiring better trained people, thanks largely to Plumpton College. Involving experienced business people from outside the wine business on their boards,” lists Richard.
What improvements can be made? “Continually improve tourism facilities and experience. Consolidation/ partnerships to enable better economies of scale. Diversify into wine-related, income-generating activities that ensure better financial viability and might attract investors.”
So, does master of wine Richard Bampfield have favourite wine, style, region, country? “No, I don’t, he says emphatically. “The single attribute of wine that I value highest is its diversity. And that is reflected in what I drink. I very seldom buy more than 2 bottles of the same wine – there is not time to drink the same wine too often.”
“We can all make a difference. Both individually and, with even more impact, collectively.”
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Master of wine, Richard Bampfield is a well known figure in the UK wine trade as a master of wine, wine educator and the face of one of Britain’s leading multiple retailers. Vineyard editor Christian Davis converses...
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In conversation...
R ichard Ba m
So, what are you drinking at the moment?
“In the last week, I have drunk wines from Australia, Chile, Germany, France, Italy, Spain, South Africa, Portugal and Georgia. Does that answer the question?” He goes on to say: “The wine business needs to be more aware of the broader political and social drivers that will impact the environment in which is sold. I have no wish to be a politician but do think wine will benefit from being seen as a product that can have a positive influence in our fight against climate change – the ‘canary in the coal mine’, if you wish. So sustainability does need to be at the heart of the decision-making of
all companies involved in the wine business, whether production, retail, marketing, supply or logistics. I would urge all to become involved in the Sustainable Wine Roundtable (www.swroundtable.org) which we hope will become a hub for discussion, debate and sharing information, data, research and resources relating to wine sustainability.” Summing up: “We can all make a difference. Both individually and, with even more impact, collectively. And we should also do all we can to support the excellent work being done on our behalf by the WSTA,” says Richard Bampfield MW.
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WINE REVIEWS
Mat h e w
Rosé
es Juk
The UK is incredibly talented at making pink fizz. DESKTOP www.matthewjukes.com ENVELOPE vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk I have avoided writing about rosé wines in February for as long as I can remember. It’s too obvious a topic, and it has always felt just a little too cheesy. But this year, I think that it is incumbent on me to raise the romantic temperature and embrace the subject because we are incredibly talented at making pink fizz in the UK and we ought to be singing louder about this skill. The fact that I can find three completely different styles of elite English sparkling rosé, without having to spend much more than thirty quid, is indeed remarkable. I wonder how many of you have spotted that top-flight rosé Champagne has been creeping up in price inexorably over the last few years. Wines that were once listed in the high forties now hang around mid-sixty price points! If you don’t believe me, search for your favourite, and I am certain that you will be surprised at the leap up in cost. I am a lifelong fan of NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé, and it is what I would describe as my model pink fizz. Fortnum & Mason lists this beautiful wine at £70.00, and so the exchange rate of a bottle of Billecart to each of the wines found on the opposite page is 1 x Champagne equals 2 x English Sparklers, and while I love Billy, I really do fancy two bottles of this trio for the same cash! Or perhaps I should say that I really love spending thirty pounds on a superbly classy single bottle, and this is the real point. I think that we have now reached a point in time when our finest English sparkling rosé wines are indeed world-class, and they ought to be very much front of mind when selecting a top-class pink fizz. We should also be spreading the word with every chance we get, both in the retail space and also in the on-trade. If I could have just one wish this February, it would be that everyone looking to open a sparkling rosé for their loved one this Valentine’s Day should select an English or Welsh wine before they consider a bottle from anywhere else.
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NV Langham, Rosé £32.25 www.langhamwine.co.uk Made using 6% red wine and 15% reserve wine, this is one of the most harmonious and silky rosé wines in the UK. The overall blend is 46% Pinot Noir, 18% Pinot Meunier and 36% Chardonnay, all taken from the Crawthorne Vineyard, and the base vintage is 2018. There is very much a 2018 juiciness about this wine which brings thrilling harmony and uncommon succulence. There is also a very low dosage here of 3 g/L, and I imagine this is because the fruit is so pliable and welcoming. If you are a fan of tender, smooth, elegant wines, you will find it hard to better this fabulous creation. Langham tends to keep a fairly low profile and yet every time I encounter these wines I am delighted and am reminded that they are very much a hidden gem in our wine landscape.
2018 Harrow & Hope, Vintage Brut Rosé £32.00 www.laithwaites.co.uk
This vintage creation from Harrow & Hope is a remarkably strident wine. With a keen edge and a wilder fruit theme than the other pair on this page, this is an artisanal number with enough grip and attitude to work with spicier dishes, serious sushi and even an indulgent goose rillette, and I doubt there is a finer smoked salmon wine in the UK. While the nose is welcoming, floral and alluring, the main action takes place on the mid-palate and also on the finish. This 50% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier blend enjoys a 7% red Pinot Noir as well as 30% of the mix being aged oak barrels. This brings weight and grandeur to the whole and then the bracing acidity signs off the experience with a flourish. There is an awful lot more flavour and flair here to consider than you might imagine and this shows just how successful H&H has become in just a few vintages. The 2018 is reaching the end of its run so jump in quick if you fancy tasting this salubrious wine.
NV Lyme Bay, Sparkling Rosé £30.00 www.lymebaywinery.co.uk £26.99 www.thewhalleywineshop.com
Made using top quality Pinot Noir fruit from Crouch Valley and Martins Lane, both in Essex, this 100% Pinot Noir sparkler is the darkest, headiest and richest of this trio. I would not hesitate in putting it in the main course arena, with game dishes and even steak. In the past, I have made glib notes about this wine tasting more like a Kir Royale than a true rosé style, but this lazy reference sells this wine short. And while the colour is a deep crimson, this is not a sparkling red either. What it is, though, is an example of a precise style of sparkling rosé, Lyme Bay’s style, and it is different, marked, brave and bold. If you are searching for a foodie wine that really leaves an impact, creating a sense of occasion out of a more informal gathering, then this is it.
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WINE BUYING
Meet the buyer Jamie Waugh is wine buyer for Fortnum & Mason, the world famous, prestigious retailer on London’s Piccadilly. He is responsible for buying English wines for his customers. He talks to Vineyard magazine. Firstly, what is the profile of your customers? Our customers are fairly traditional and trust us to buy wines that are of the requisite standard, wherever the wines originate. The vast majority of our sales have historically been as gifts but since lockdown, the company as a whole has seen a resurgence in domestic customer sales, and we as a wine department are selling increasingly to the self-consumption customer.
Which country, style of wine, are best sellers?
Champagne continues to dominate our sales but we have enjoyed much success launching our non-alcoholic sparkling tea over the past three years. We sold over 14,000 bottles just in November – December 2021 alone.
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Do you stock/list English and/ or Welsh Wines? Yes, we currently stock 12.
If yes, which ones?
Sparkling wines: Camel Valley, Nyetimber, Gusbourne, Furleigh, Chapel Down, Herbert Hall, Martins Lane, Hambledon, Laverstoke Park, Woodchester, Danbury Ridge, Simpson Estate.
What are you looking for when considering new wines to list?
Absolute quality, at the right price, for our customers. At Fortnum & Mason, we are very fortunate to have been trading for more than 300 years and I think this philosophy is key to our success.
Do you have a minimum drop for a listing? I need to be listing 4-5 wines minimum to make the listing worthwhile for ourselves and the supplier.
What do you expect a suppler/ producer to supply to you in advance?
A supplier needs to be flexible, prepared to support and be creative – suppliers / producers are the experts after all, with their noses closest to the ground. And solvent.
Broadly, what do you think of English/Welsh wines?
English sparkling wines are now of the highest quality regularly competing with Champagne. And as far as still wines are concerned, we have pockets of Sussex, Kent and Hampshire to shout about; capable of producing excellent Chardonnay, Bacchus and Pinot Noir, and in the case of the Crouch Valley, this production is available year-in, year-out.
What are English and Welsh producers doing well? The style is becoming more consistent and we are now forming an identity of our own- focused on crisp, bright acidity with fresh, clean flavours. We need to maintain a premium focus – we can never and should never aim to compete with the likes of Prosecco. Also, our packaging has improved immensely over the past decade which is long overdue given the success we have had with branding over the past 50 years.
Conversely, what aren’t they doing well. What should they be considering/thinking/doing?
As the market evolves, and the climate warms, we need to establish some form of regional identity as per the French appellation system. Evidently, this is easier said than done, especially here where producers have to source grapes from all over the south of England. However, given we will never have the quantity, we need to focus on quality and provenance to compete on the international stage.
What trends do you discern in wine sales and is there anything that English and Welsh viticulturists and vinifers should be addressing, going forward? Evidently with global warming there is increasing attention drawn to sustainability and provenance which our producers stand to benefit from. We don’t have to irrigate; we are close to the source and it is so exciting to see customers wanting to buy wine or spirits from the county in which they happen to be.
Is there anything important that I have forgotten to ask you? Is there anything you would like to say to English and Welsh winemakers and producers? We are so proud to be supporting the exceptional English and Welsh wines on offer, so I would say keep investing; the British public are certainly showing an appetite! Photos: David Loftus
> Jamie Waugh
Your background
Oddbins, Percy Fox, Corney & Barrow, OW Loeb & Fortnum & Mason
How did you become a wine buyer?
I was brought into the Fortnum’s business to sell, but when the previous buyer was made director, he recommended I do the buying.
What style, type, country’s wine, do you personally enjoy?
French wines continue to excite me whether it be whites from the Jura, or Cabernet Franc from the Loire. And I am not alone in marvelling at Pinot Noir from Burgundy, the Yarra or Oregon. Nebbiolo from Valtellina & Piedmont, or Sangiovese from Tuscany would also feature on my desert island. I have also recently tasted some really exciting and delicious unfortified whites (vino de Pasto) from Jerez.
Fortnum & Mason
Fortnum & Mason was founded in 1707, and our range of wines, spirits and fortified wines reflects our longevity, with over 1500 in the cellars, of which 164 wines are bottled under the Fortnum’s label. The Fortnum’s collection represents over 65% of our sales, which is a rare thing in retail, (where proprietary labels tend to dominate heavily), and has found favour with our customers.
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EDITOR'S VISIT
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Dav i s Ed ian ito
From North Sea oil to wine on the Hog’s Back in Surrey, Mike Wagstaff and his wife Hilary, have changed course in more ways than one. Christian Davis visits…
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Greyfriaring
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Mike Wagstaff describes himself as a: “Hands on owner. I’m not one to show up in tweeds at harvest time and ask, ‘how’s it going?’” The sixty-year-old comes to vines and winemaking, via the oil industry. Educated as a petroleum engineer, he worked off shore on oil rigs for Shell during the 1980s. With that experience he then moved to investment banking, specialising in energy companies, working in London and New York. Mike then moved back into oil, starting up Venture Production, based up in Aberdeen, initially as finance director and then becoming the chief executive. “After five and a half years, Centrica, aka British Gas, bought the company for £1.5 billion. We created more millionaires than Microsoft,” he quipped. “At that point, having commuted from here (Surrey) to Aberdeen, and been involved with big corporations my wife and I wanted to do something together, but less ‘corporate’. I have gone from a 600 mile journey to one and half miles – but we aren’t living on site, which is good.” So how did he get from oil to wine? His wife had bought him a book on viticulture written by Professor Richard ‘Dick’ Selly, the well knownº, respected, geology lecturer at Imperial College, London, who is possibly best known for helping to convert Denbies in Surrey from a pig farm into the large wine producer it is today. “The book stayed in my briefcase for five years,” said Mike. “He basically said: ‘You are 100-150 miles north from Champagne - and it is the same geology and, back in the 1980s, he believed that global warning was happening’…” Greyfriars House nearby was built around the time of the First World War. It changed hands and the adjacent 30 acres were sold off to a vets’ practice. As an “eccentric experiment” they planted a vineyard. Mike described it as a: “Hobby done by enthusiastic amateurs with mixed results.” Chardonnay and Pinot Noir was planted. This was around the time in the early 1990s when there was just Nyetimber and Ridgeview making sparkling wines. “The Hog’s Back is essentially the western end of the North Downs, running east-west with 15cm of scrappy top soil on top of south facing chalk perfect for growing vines in this country. At the bottom of the vineyard it turns to clay on one side and sandstone on the other.” The Wagstaffs moved in in 2010. The vets had sold the practice but kept the freehold on the vineyard. Then in 2009/10 with the financial crisis,
VINEYARD FACT SHEET Name of company: Greyfriars Vineyard Limited Name of vineyard: Greyfriars Vineyard Name of winemaker: Oliver Key
Vineyard: Greyfriars – 16 hectares Monkshatch – 24ha Soils: 15cm topsoil on top of chalk Aspect: South facing slopes of the Hog’s Back (North Downs)
they decided to sell that. “We had bought the ‘house of our dreams’ and we then heard that the vineyard was up for sale. Mike sums up his strategy as: “A small, boutique, commercial grower/producer focusing on sparkling wines – Grape-to-glass. Our aim is to produce amazing wines at an accessible price. In 2011, they planted more vines and then continued this every year to 2015. In 2013 they purchased another site nearby, making it 16 hectares (40 acres, of which the original Greyfriars vineyard comprises 40% and Monkshatch 60%. He goes on to say: “We believe two-thirds of making great wine is done in the vineyard rather than the winery. We believe in low intervention, as little as possible. Let the fruit do the talking. But we’re not organic, let alone biodynamic. That would be an additional level of difficulty and
> Mike Wagstaff
risk - too much for me! We operate in a marginal, variable climate. My background has not been a lifetime in viticulture but we do wish to be stewards of the land.” The original ‘hobby scale’ vineyard of 0.5ha at Greyfriars was planted in 1989 by our predecessors who were vets. What was interesting was that after a bit of experimentation they settled on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir which made Greyfriars one of the pioneer vineyards growing ‘Champagne varietals’ long before the current boom. They proved the quality of the site for growing grapes and we took over Greyfriars in late 2010 with the ambition to expand to become a boutique scale grower-producer of predominantly sparkling wine. “We have been on the same mission ever << since. We planted from 2011-15 and
Diseases experienced: Downey mildew, powdery mildew, Botrytis Pests: Fruit fly Treatments: Liquid traps to keep fruit fly out of vines
Grape varieties – In order of number of vines planted: ◆ Chardonnay ◆ Pinot Noir ◆ Pinot Meunier ◆ Pinot Gris ◆ Sauvignon Blanc ◆ Pinot Blanc
Trellising: Steel posts and six wires Canopy management: Leaf cutting from July onwards, leaf removal both mechanically and manually
Harvesting: Historically we have always hand picked. Post Brexit/Covid-19 in 2021 we had trouble securing labour for harvest. As a result we machine picked the majority of our crop and hand picked the rest. In future we are likely to use a mixture of hand and machine picking
Timings: Harvest – Always in October. It was only in 2018 that harvest started in September. Typically we expect to start picking in the second week of October and harvest lasts 2-3 weeks. Typically we will pick about 12 tonnes/day to match our comfortable winery processing capacity. Photo: Mike Barby
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EDITOR'S VISIT
"We will only make our wine with estate grown fruit since we believe that at least two thirds of a great wine is created in the vineyard."
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<< released our first wines in very limited quantities in late 2013/early 2014. Since then, we have expanded our range to nine sparkling wines and four still wines. Although still wine represents only 10% of our total production in a typical year, we have sold out of most of our still wines in 2021 – hence the increase in still wine production. “We do everything from grape to glass which is important to us to keep control of the entire process in order to maintain quality and provenance. We will only make our wine with estate grown fruit since we believe that at least two thirds of a great wine is created in the vineyard,” he states. The Wagstaffs’ ‘Lockdown Project’ was to create a cellar door tasting room. The swish room can take between 75-100 people with a function/meeting room that can accommodate 12-14. “During 2020/2021 we have built a brand new cellar door tasting room which we are very excited about and we have seen a huge increase in our wine tourism business despite the limitations of lockdown. We are looking to further expand our tours/tasting offering over the next couple of years.” Being a shrewd businessman, Mike can see the opportunity for developing wine tourism but definitely not any sort of permanent restaurant operation. Again too much hassle, too much risk, too many people need to be employed. He prefers inviting food trucks, delivering the likes of pizza to Greyfriars as and when they have events. He is planning more diverse events such as cocktail evenings, cheese and charcuterie. He is contemplating buying a horse box and converting it into a bar for outside events. Speaking of outside events; a local yoga studio, desperate in lockdown, conducted its yoga and pilates classes on the decking overlooking the vineyard. The Zeitgeist being people enjoying our hospitality outside with family and/or friends, socially distanced. Being safe. “I reckon we are the closest vineyard, of any significant size, to London and we are a 10 minute taxi drive from Guildford station. That is important,” said Mike. Greyfriars is one of only three producers
making Sauvignon Blanc in the UK but it’s a varietal that is challenging to ripen in England. Vineyard and Daily Mail columnist, Matthew Jukes, recommended the Greyfriars Sauvignon Blanc 2020. The 2,000 bottles sold out. The 2014, 2018 and 2020 were “amazing” but the 2019 went to produce a sparkling Sauvignon Blanc (known as SB). 2021? “We’ll see. It’s still going through malolactic.” The first wines were a sparkling rosé and a blanc de blancs. Greyfriars’ best-selling, flagship wine is its vintage Sparkling Rosé Reserve. “We cannot make enough if it,” said Mike. He is about to release the sixth vintage from 2018. From 450 bottles in the first year, production is now up to about 11,000 bottles. The wines have won various IWC and Decanter gold
medals. Apart from the cellar door, Greyfriars’ wines are available through about half a dozen local Waitrose stores, plus the Oxford Street store and online. We also distribute through an increasing number of local stockists and wholesale nationally to the on-trade. As to future trends, Mike stated: “As our vines have matured, the quality of the fruit has improved and we are becoming more experienced with individual sub-plots within our vineyards. “We are seeing a significant increase in demand for still wine especially from the cellar door and post Covid-19. As a result we have increased our production of still rosé by threefold over the last three years. We have also planted an additional 1Ha+ of Pinot Gris/ >> Pinot Blanc in 2019 which should start
Key wines ◆ Greyfriars Non vintage Cuvée
Traditional Champagne blend of Chardonnay/Pinot Noir/Pinot Meunier – £19.50 (cellar door) ◆ Greyfriars Vintage Sparkling Wines Two extra years in bottle so 4/5 years ageing – £24 (cellar door)
Limited editions ◆ Greyfriars ‘X’ Blanc de Noirs
To celebrate Greyfriars’ 10th anniversary
A special ‘Platinum cuvée to celebrate the Queen’s platinum anniversary this year All at £32
◆ Greyfriars Cuvée Royale
R E L I A B L E C LO S U R E S T H AT H E L P S E A L , PROTECT AND AD D VALUE TO BRAND S CROWN CAPS
SPARKLING WINE CO R
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HOODS WIRE
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CA M A OL Y L P & N TI
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Quality Stoppers and Closures Since 1774
+44 (0)1844 203100 sales@rankincork.co.uk rankincork.co.uk
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EDITOR'S VISIT WINERY FACT SHEET Methodology: We do everything from grape to glass from harvesting through to bottling and disgorging/labelling.
Processing/Equipment: We have a full set of equipment designed for production of about 100,000 bottles per year.
Press: ◆ Willmes 4300 Merlin pneumatic press ◆ SK 1,000 litre pneumatic press
Tanks : 150,00 litres of stainless steel tank capacity (various sizes from 500 -10,000 litres)
<< producing significant quantities of fruit from 2022 onwards which will also allow us to significantly increase our still white production. “We have also seen an incredible increase in demand for our pink wines both still and sparkling. Sales have tripled over the last three years and it’s no longer just a seasonal summer drink.” So, what’s planned? “We launched our first still wine blend in 2021 (our 2020 Noor), which is a blend of Pinot Gris and Chardonnay which has been extremely well received and commemorates an interesting bit of local history. We are also planning to launch the second vintage of our trophy winning Cuvee Royale to celebrate the Queen’s 70th anniversary on the throne. “Our Pinot Noir seems to be at the heart of our best wines (both white and pink) despite the well reported difficulties of growing it. We are seeing a definite trend for significantly increased demand for both pink wine and still wines, which has accelerated since Covid-19.” He concludes: “We do everything from grape to glass which is important to us to keep control of the entire process in order to maintain quality and provenance. We will only make our wine with estate grown fruit since we believe that at least two thirds of a great wine is created in the vineyard. “Our winemaking has gone from strength to strength as evidenced by our trophy in the 2021 WineGB competition and yet another gold medal for our vintage sparkling rosé in the IWC.”
John Buchan AGRONOMY LTD For independent advice on: Interpretation of soil and tissue Formulation of nutrient programmes Supply of tailor-made products General agronomic advice
30 F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D
Pressing/Crushing: Whole bunch pressing for white fizz and our white still wines. Cuvee and taille separated and Coueur de Cuvee used for our limited edition/ prestige sparkling wines. We crush and de-stem for pink sparkling (Saignee method rather than blending red and white base wines) and still wines.
Fermentation: Majority of our wine is fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks with 10-15% fermented in 225 litre used oak barriques.
Innoculation: Generally with commercial yeasts. We have done some experimentation with natural/wild yeasts.
Clarification: Since 2018 we have only used Bentonite so all wines post this date are vegetarian/vegan.
Chapitalisation: We only chaptalise as necessary in less warm years to reach potential ABV of ~10.5% in our base sparkling wines.
Racking: Our wine is generally racked only twice prior to filtering/bottling.
Bottling: We have our own bottling line with a capacity of approximately 2,000 bottles per hour which gives us more flexibility on when we bottle than using a contract bottler.
Ageing: Our NV sparkling wines are typically aged on their lees for 2-3 years prior to release and our vintage wines for 1-3 years longer. We are increasing the length of time our wines are on cork after disgorging to six months
2022
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AGRONOMY DIARY
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Bring more precision to soil testing
Rob S
Healthy soil and balanced nutrition underpin the success of any vineyard. Hutchinsons Rob Saunders and Chris Cooper explain the benefits of precision soil testing before the season begins. Whether your vineyard is large or small, old or new, managing the soil well is central to maximising grape yields, quality and flavour characteristics. An accurate soil test provides a really useful way of evaluating what’s going on beneath the surface, and allows issues, such as poor drainage, sub-optimal pH or nutrient deficiencies, to be identified early. It also gives a benchmark against which the effectiveness of future management practices can be measured. January and February are an ideal time to conduct soil testing, as there is usually good moisture and time for remedial work and/or tailoring of fertiliser recommendations before the growing season begins or new vines are planted. However, while pre-planting soil testing (at depths of 0-15cm and 15-30cm) remains fairly common practice for ensuring new vines go into decent conditions, regular soil testing on more established sites can sometimes get overlooked. Times are changing though. Public and political focus on soil health, carbon, and environmental sustainability is increasing across all sectors. There is a definite need to ensure inputs are used as efficiently as possible with the sharp rise in fertiliser prices in 2021 giving added impetus. Indeed, carbon, data and precision were recurrent themes at this year’s “virtual” Oxford Farming Conference.
Precision mapping solution
Traditional soil core analysis remains a useful tool for assessing basic soil properties, but high definition sampling systems such as Terramap, now offer a highly accurate means of measuring up to 27 different soil properties, at a cost that is competitive with conventional sampling methods. Standard properties such as Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K), Magnesium (Mg), pH and texture, through to more advanced measurements of Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), Plant Available Water and organic/active carbon, can all be accurately mapped using Terramap’s 800 sampling points per hectare. Furthermore, GPS technology allows repeat measurements to be taken from precisely the same spot to monitor changes over time. DEFRA’s Farming Rules for Water in 2018, require English vineyard managers to test soils for P, K, Mg, pH and nitrogen levels at least once every five years, so rather than seeing this as a “tick-box” exercise, use it as an opportunity to thoroughly evaluate soils and get the most from your site. There can be many benefits for the vineyard, not least because healthy vines are generally less prone to disease. The K:Mg:Ca ratio is a good example; if this ratio is out of sync, it can predispose some cultivars to bunch stem necrosis,
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so generally indices for all three nutrients should be 3 or above. The widelygrown SO4 rootstock can be particularly prone to issues with Mg uptake. Phosphate is critical to root development, magnesium is also key to chlorophyll synthesis within leaves, while potassium is needed in relatively high quantities through the season to enable sugars to move from leaves to fruits, with large amounts removed at harvest – typically 3kg per tonne of grapes. Micronutrient deficiencies will also threaten vine health and grape quality, but are often relatively straightforward to rectify with in-season nutrient applications, providing problems are identified early, rather than waiting until symptoms are visible. Measuring the soil’s inherent CEC provides further information to help tailor nutritional programmes through the season. Soils with a low CEC (typically <15 meq/100g) have less ability to retain nutrients and are likely to benefit more from a “little and often” approach to fertiliser applications via the leaf or roots than high CEC soils with better nutrient retention. Longer-term, low CEC soils may benefit from the addition of organic mulches to increase nutrient-holding capacity. With the increasing focus on carbon, it is worth noting that growers attempting to control weeds through cultivations rather than herbicides, may well be running at lower levels of soil carbon given that tillage speeds up the degradation of organic matter. Again, mulches may be a useful addition, but understanding what’s going on with accurate testing will undoubtedly help formulate the best way forward. Finally, we discussed late last year the value of critically appraising vines. If there are areas of the vineyard that regularly underperform, produce weak growth, or often succumb to disease, then serious questions need to be asked and digital soil analysis mapping may be one way of doing this. While it will not give all the answers, it may well identify underlying causes.
DESKTOP www.hlhltd.co.uk ENVELOPE information@hlhltd.co.uk phone-alt 01945 461177 F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D
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Consider your business structure
The structure of your business is important whether you are a start-up or a well-established business: should you set up as a sole trader, partnership or a limited company? Your business structure will have different advantages and disadvantages, with varying legal, accounting and tax implications. Sole traders and partnerships are often better suited for start-up businesses. These structures allow for better utilisation of the losses for tax purposes that are often seen in the early years of plantation. However, as your business grows and becomes increasingly more profitable, you may want to protect both you and your profits by incorporating into a limited company. We recommend that you periodically review the structure of your business to ensure it is right for you now and in the future.
this occurs part-way through an accounting period. Within the building there is also the possibility of capital allowances on integral features such as electrical systems and air conditioning, so be sure to itemise out all costs incurred on recently acquired or built wineries to claim your full relief.
Research and Development
The uniqueness of the wine industry opens doors to a variety of tax reliefs that your business can benefit from.
Research and Development tax relief (R&D) is only available for companies. However, it may be possible to create a structure that incorporates a limited company therefore opening the door to R&D tax relief. What actually constitutes R&D is wide ranging and can often be quite complex. Projects will qualify for R&D if they ‘seek to make an advance in a field of science or technology’. Under the Small and Medium Enterprise (SME) scheme companies can claim a 230% total deduction against profits chargeable to corporation tax. This means for every £1 spent on qualifying expenditure, you will receive 43p in tax savings! For loss making companies, losses can be surrendered to HMRC in exchange for an immediate tax credit equal to 14.5% of the amount surrendered.
Annual Investment Allowance
Get the right advice
Tax reliefs
Businesses can claim up to 100% tax relief (up to the value of £1,000,000 per year) on expenditure on business ‘plant and machinery’. Plant and machinery does not just include assets such as tractors and wine tanks but also items such as trellising and trellis posts.
With the wide range of tax considerations for the wine industry, it’s important to work with a dedicated adviser to find the best solution for your specific needs.
Super-deduction
A temporary first-year allowance, the ‘super-deduction‘, is also available to limited companies only. This means companies are able to claim a superdeduction against taxable profits for the cost of new plant and machinery purchased between 1 April 2021 and 31 March 2023. The deduction will be: ◆ 130% of the cost of qualifying plant and machinery which would ordinarily attract main rate capital allowances (ordinarily 18%). ◆ 50% of the cost of qualifying plant and machinery which would ordinarily attract special rate capital allowances (ordinarily 6%).
Structure and Buildings Allowance
Finally, there has been the introduction of Structures and Buildings Allowance (SBA) which allows for capital allowances of 3% to be claimed on qualifying expenditure incurred on the construction of a building or structure in qualifying use. The allowance is given from the day the building or structure is brought into use and is prorated accordingly when
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ead of Vi neya dH rds
While every vineyard is different in its goals and challenges, here are a few considerations that every business can benefit from.
an
There is no time like the present to stop and reflect on your business, its current position in the market place, and look for advice on how to grow.
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Top tax tips for the wine sector
Joh n
PROFESSIONAL SERVICES
DESKTOP www.carpenterbox.com/vineyards phone-alt 01903 234094 F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D
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Digging deep
Jo Co w
SOIL
roy e d
Quality grapes are needed for premium wines and the health of the soil is a key factor in achieving this. With much to do in the vineyard during the winter to prepare for the forthcoming season, such as pruning, tying down and trellis repairs – soil is often forgotten. Jo Cowderoy finds out some of the soil management tasks that can be done during the winter dormancy period that will benefit the future crop. A healthy soil is essential for a sustainable and productive vineyard. Apart from providing physical support to the plant, it supplies nutrients and water for vine growth and berry development. A healthy soil is one maintained in a good condition – biologically, chemically, and physically. Winter soils are easier to dig, so it’s an excellent time for the vineyard manager to get out the spade and collect samples for soil analysis, dig pits to observe drainage and compaction and count worms – a great indicator of soil health.
What is fertility?
The Sustainable Wines of Great Britain (SWGB) bulletin on Soil Management describes soil fertility as being able to sustain plant growth and is defined by nine principal factors: texture, structure, organic matter content, presence of soil organisms, water holding capacity, drainage properties, depth, chemical composition, and acidity. The bulletin suggests there are no standard answers for all vineyard sites, but if in doubt about the performance of the vineyard then it recommends evaluating the current practices for managing the vineyard floor. Looking to minimise soil compaction whilst maintaining or improving the soil structure along with organic matter and biodiversity – then drafting an improvement plan, costing it, and putting it into practice.
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Importance of analysis
Mark Botting, Laboratory Manager, Fruit Advisory Services Team LLP (FAST) advises that: “Vineyard managers should be focusing firstly on, triennial soil chemical analysis for pH plus extractable P, K, and Mg, secondly, on annual earthworm counts as an integral part of soil biological health and thirdly on digging soil pits to assess compaction or drainage problems.” “At FAST we recommend soil analysis every three years to maintain correct pH and nutrient levels,” continued Mark. “Good soil nutrition also plays a part in reducing disease levels. This is in part due to having a healthy active soil ecosystem that can help deal with invading pathogens. The balance of the nutrients is also important especially the K:Mg ratio. The standard UK laboratory soil nutrient test is for pH, plus P, K, and Mg. It is reasonably easy to interpret and directly aids the grower’s fertiliser strategy. This technique uses chemical extractants so only solubilises those nutrients that are available for uptake by the roots so this analysis in effect measures plant-available soil nutrients. “This methodology of sampling and advice on liming applications and fertiliser use is clearly explained in the AHDB Nutrient Management Guide (RB 209), but an option is to also seek the advice of a FACTS Qualified Advisor especially if your vineyard is in a Nitrate Vulnerable Zone (NVZ).
Photos: Joel Jorgensen
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> Joel Jorgensen “The soil pH is probably the most important parameter of all as it has a direct bearing on the availability of all other nutrients. It also has an influence on the activity of the microflora that are so important in making the nutrients available to the plant. At a soil pH of around 6.5 the soluble nutrients in the root zone are at the point of greatest availability to the vine so this is the first thing that should be tackled. Being a fruiting crop, grapevines need a good supply of K so maintaining an optimum level of around 200 mg/l is vital to maintain yield and fruit quality. The K:Mg ratio in the soil should be around 2:1 so Mg levels should be around 100 mg/l and if not applications of Kieserite should be applied (both K and Mg can be added in autumn or spring as long as ground conditions are suitable – but no N should be applied in late autumn and when the vines are dormant) to maintain this ratio as far as possible. “On chalky soils where the predominant cation is Calcium there is often a deficit of Magnesium and this can cause visible leaf Mg deficiencies in the summer months especially on the older leaves and most often when on a SO4 rootstock. A similar induced Mg deficiency can also be seen if the soil K:Mg ratio gets to 4:1 or above,” added Mark. “Although many textbooks and agronomists suggest analysing soil only every three years, I like to take samples every autumn,” explained Joel Jorgenson, viticulturist with Veraison. “This helps me track nutrient levels and catch issues before they arise. So much (other than the obvious nutrient status) can be read from a soil analysis if you track changes over time. >>
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F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D Vineyard Ad Jan 22.indd 2
13/01/2022 15:17
SOIL
Earthworm recording sheet Field name:
Date:
1
2
Total number of earthworms (adults and juveniles)
3
Pit
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Number of adult epigeic earthworms Number of adult endogeic earthworms Number of adult anecic earthworms
Presence of earthworms
1. In how many pits did you find earthworms (of any type)?
0–3
Poor presence of earthworms across the field
4–6
Patchy presence of earthworms across the field
7–10
Good presence of earthworms across the field
Numbers of earthworms
2. How many pits contained 16 or more earthworms (of any type)?
0–3
Unlikely to find high numbers of earthworms in the field
4–6
Possible to find high numbers of earthworms in the field
7–10
Likely to find high numbers of earthworms in the field
Presence of ecological groups
3. How many pits contained epigeic earthworms?
0–3
Unlikely to find epigeic earthworms in this field
4–6
Possible to find epigeic earthworms in this field
7–10
Likely to find epigeic earthworms in this field
4. How many pits contained endogeic earthworms?
0–3
Unlikely to find endogeic earthworms in this field
4–6
Possible to find endogeic earthworms in this field
7–10
Likely to find endogeic earthworms in this field
5. How many pits contained anecic earthworms?
0–3
Unlikely to find anecic earthworms in this field
4–6
Possible to find anecic earthworms in this field
7–10
Likely to find anecic earthworms in this field
SIMPLY SUSTAINABLE SOILS Six Simple Steps for your soil to help improve the performance, health and long-term sustainability of your land
LINKING ENVIRONMENT AND FARMING
FACTSHEET
How to count earthworms
Importance
Earthworms improve plant productivity, are principally responsible for engineering the soil environment and are an important food source for native birds such as the song thrush. There are up to 10 common earthworm species in agricultural soils and these can be grouped into three ecological types: epigeic, endogeic and anecic earthworms – each group having a unique and important function. Earthworms are an indicator of soil health, being impacted by pH, waterlogging, compaction, tillage, rotation and organic matter management.
<< “It's particularly important to keep an eye on soil pH as anything too acidic or alkaline can lock up nutrients, causing them to be unavailable to the vines. Liming to raise the pH to near neutral can take several months to be effective. Small changes are significant as pH is measured on a logarithmic scale - so for example, a pH of 6 is 10 times more acidic than a pH of 7,” added Joel. “It is imperative to have your soil sampled at least every three years,” commented John Buchan, agronomist. “This will enable you to monitor the nutrient levels in order to optimise their levels and availability – and it makes sense if we accept that around 80% of the vines nutrient requirements are accessed from the soil. The results will require interpreting – to check the levels and ratios in order to decide on actions. “The soil pH is the most important factor as it controls all nutrient availability. The optimum being between pH 6.8 - 7.2, as we move to
either a more acid or alkaline situation so nutrients become progressively locked up in the soil and will be less available to the vine. “If lime is needed, it should be applied in the autumn to allow it time to start working, as it is a slow-release product. However, if nutrient sulphate formulations are used, they are best applied in the spring as they can be leached through the soil by winter rains,” added John.
The not so lowly earthworm
Although soil health is harder to assess, earthworm numbers are a good indicator of favourable soil conditions as earthworms need moist soils that have sufficient organic matter. Worms are important soil engineers, through their activity they improve soil structure, help create porosity which allows drainage and water movement, as well as nutrient and carbon cycling. Earthworms are affected by soil pH, added to this waterlogging, compaction,
What do earthworms tell us?
● A good presence of earthworms across a field means the benefits are likely to be widespread ● High numbers of earthworms indicate the potential for significant benefits to plant productivity ● The presence of each ecological group indicates the potential for specific earthworm benefits, such as carbon cycling, nutrient mobilisation and/or water infiltration
How to identify earthworms
Epigeic (litter-dwelling earthworms) ● Dark red-headed worms ● Small (<8cm) in size, typically about the length of a matchstick ● Often fast-moving (most likely to escape from the worm pot!) Sensitive to: Tillage (detrimental) and organic matter management such as manure applications (beneficial) Roles: Carbon cycling and prey for native birds
Endogeic (topsoil earthworms) ● Pale-coloured and green worms (not red) ● Small to medium size fluid ● Often curl up when handled, and green worms may emit a yellow ● The most common earthworm group found in arable fields Sensitive to: Organic matter management (beneficial) Roles: Soil aggregation and nutrient mobilisation for plants
Anecic (deep burrowing earthworms) ● Dark red or black-headed worms ● Large size (>8cm), typically similar size to a pencil ● Make deep vertical tunnels, up to 2m ● Often found below surface earthworm casts or midden residue piles ● Feed at night, foraging the soil surface around their burrow for litter ● Commonly found in grassland but often absent from ploughed fields and where there is no surface litter Sensitive to: Tillage (detrimental) and organic matter management such as manure applications and straw return (beneficial) Roles: Deep burrows that improve aeration, water infiltration and root development
38 F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D
RESOURCES LEAF Simply Sustainable Soils www.s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/leaf-website/LEAF-Simply_Sustainable_Soils_2016.pdf Earthworm recording sheet www.ahdb.org.uk/knowledge-library/earthworm-recording-sheet How to count earthworms www.ahdb.org.uk/knowledge-library/how-to-count-earthworms Visual Evaluation of Soil Structure www.soils.vidacycle.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/VESS_score_chart.pdf SWGB Soil Management bulletin www.winegb.co.uk
and cultivation all reduce their numbers. “In the vineyard sites we manage, we dig multiple profile pits twice a year to visually assess our soil structure,” explained Joel. “We test the soil’s 'spade-ability' (compaction), water infiltration (porosity) and count earthworms. We assess whether the soil aggregates have been built naturally by an active soil food web – such as earthworms, arthropods, fungi bacteria and nematodes, or whether the aggregates are manmade – from cultivators, ploughs, sub-soilers. We record, track, and analyse this data to help us better understand the impacts of every intervention. “Most soil biology is hard to see with a naked eye, so we use earthworm counts as an easy indicator of biological activity. For the smaller critters, we ask the soil laboratory to count the active fungi and bacteria - interestingly, it seems grapevines prefer a fungal dominant soil,” added Joel. “The organic status of your soils will allow both maximum nutrient retention and availability,” explained John. “This can be analysed by soil samples, but a good indication can be given by doing a worm count – with four million per hectare being optimal. A high worm count will aid drainage and help to create an aerobic soil – thus allowing good microbial activity and populations,” John added.
> A good crumb-like soil structure “At FAST we also advise annual earthworm counts and digging soil pits as examples of best practice and suggest using the Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board (AHDB) soil assessments and earthworm counts guidance, as well as the LEAF best practice guides to sustainable soils. “What we really encourage – and this forms part of our one-day School of Fruit Growing Module on Soils and Soil Nutrition – is for
growers to regularly assess their soils, not least as a lot of the issues seen in aerial parts of plants can be traced to problems hidden under the soil surface,” said Mark.
Winter cover
Autumn sown cover crops for winter cover are an increasingly common practice. “In the future I foresee an increase in the use of winter cover crops to reduce bare soil percentage, >>
39 F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D
SOIL
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“Sub soiling is something that I suggest should be considered for alternate rows each year as a regular soil management operation. However, the challenge is to only do it when the soil conditions are right. The aim is to reduce the compacted wheel tracks thus creating a more aerobic soil profile to allow optimum microbial activity, thus increasing nutrient availability, whilst also aiding drainage.” Don't forget that sheep can be a great help in the vineyard over winter to graze off any remaining weeds and grass both within the rows and under the vines – with the added bonus of some fertilizer,” John concluded.
Speak to your local agronomist or email enquiries@ agrovista.co.uk @AgrovistaUK
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01/22
<< to increase bioavailable nutrients, and to improve soil structure,” commented Mark. Joel finds that, depending on the results of various soil tests, he may consider sowing a cover crop. “We use a direct drill to do some groundwork for us. However, never drive on waterlogged soil and sow a cover crop mix that's designed to do what you need. A few strong tap roots, mixed in with adventurous roots can improve drainage and soil aeration far better than any subsoiler or cultivator. As with anything, biodiversity is key to enhancing overall activity in and around the soil, making it work for you, not the other way around. The cover crop should prevent erosion, improve drainage, add organic matter, decrease leaching, feed soil organisms, and generally improve resilience to extreme weather conditions and fluctuations in nutritional demands from your vines. “I avoid mechanical soil work unless absolutely necessary. Every pass with a machine, slows down the living organisms which would have done the work for you,” added Joel. “The use of an overwintering cover crop can be of benefit to control weed population, enhance drainage, increase organic matter and encourage beneficial insects,” commented John. “There are a number of cover crop plants that are both deep rooting, for soil improvement, and others with dense growth for weed control,” added John.
“What we really encourage is for growers to regularly assess their soils - not least as a lot of the issues seen in aerial parts of plants can be traced to problems hidden under the soil surface,” Mark Botting, FAST.
40 F EAUK222 B R UWEATHER A R Y ADVERT_65x190.indd 2 0 2 2 | V I N 1E Y A R D
13/01/2022 09:58
THE VINE POST
Cultivating your vineyard’s potential critical tasks will be skipped, wet conditions will cause delays and thorough control of perennial weeds will be exceedingly difficult. The condition of the field will determine the specific site preparation tasks needed and the type, maturity and quantity of existing vegetation on the site will dictate the specific weed control tasks. Operational limits of the site may impact the tillable area, e.g. access, topography, telegraph pylons. Some site improvement measures may need to be taken at the outset, including installing deer fencing, modifying hedgerows, improving surface drainage etc. If a root-restricting hardpan exists below the surface, break up the hardpan with a tractormounted sub-soiler. It is important to turn the soil, break up surface compaction and sod layers. Amendments to pH along with nutrient additions can be incorporated at this stage, (though always consult an agronomist). The site may require multiple passes to achieve a smooth, homogenous and level planting bed. Ploughing and discing fields will unearth dormant seed beds that may require further controls. Ultimately the field should be well-drained, sub-soiled and fertilised in advance. It should be harrowed to create a fine tilth in the upper section of the soil, (30cm depth) and the ground prepared right to the edges. The planting machine will need
er
You’re going to plant a vineyard! You’ve assessed your land and ordered your vines, what next? Preparing your soil prior to planting will greatly improve your vines’ performance and promote healthy, vigorous growth. As part of your initial site assessment, you should have completed some preliminary soil analysis to gauge the land’s suitability for viticulture. The goal of soil preparation is to replenish vital minerals and nutrients as well as break up and loosen any compacted soil. A well-prepared field controls weeds, recycles plant nutrients and provides a soft soil mass for planting. The soil analysis will reveal any nutrient deficiencies so that corrective actions can be taken under the guidance of a licensed agronomist. Technology, (such as GPS and GIS software) offers us the opportunity to examine soil characteristics and create detailed reports of the field topography and soil structure. Extensive data regarding active calcium, (CaCO3) and organic matter content, macro- and micronutrients, pH and salinity levels provide all the information required to make fact-based decisions regarding cultivation techniques. Ideally, site preparation should begin at least the autumn before your vines are planted, preferably longer. Waiting until the spring that planting will occur increases the chances that
Wi l l M ow
Vine-Works sufficient space to start the row and sink the plough; therefore, it is important they have as much space as possible to optimise the land available with workable headlands. If weed control is determined to be adequate by September before planting, a cool season grass, such as winter rye, could be planted as a cover crop. The cover crop will inhibit other species establishing on the site and can be easily terminated using a roller crimper or mower before planting. The dead vegetation will act as a mulch layer. Completing all these tasks in the previous year will result in a well-prepared soil with little to no competing vegetation. The effectiveness of each job undertaken should be confirmed before moving to the next task. Proper site preparation and control of competing vegetation sets the stage for successful crop establishment and requires minimal maintenance in future years. You only establish your vineyard once. It is vitally important not to underestimate the value of thoroughly preparing your site in order to create the best possible start for your vines’ journey.
DESKTOP www.vine-works.com ENVELOPE sales@vine-works.com phone-alt 01273 891777
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EDUCATION
Most of first year spent in vineyard
> Travis Salisbury
> Tom Bailey At Plumpton College, BSc and FdSc students spend most of their first year in the vineyard and progress to practical time in our winery with the winemaker and engage in a range of winemaking operations in their second year. Tom, Travis, and Catherine are currently in their second year studying our BSc in Viticulture & Oenology full time.
Tom Bailey
I'm originally from Guildford, so I saw many vineyards and wineries in Surrey as they began to pop up. That's probably where the interest started. It has been great fun going into the winery in my second-year at Plumpton College. I find things easier to learn when I see them in action and up close. So, getting real practical experience and seeing all the ups and downs of a commercial winery has been invaluable for taking things from the textbook into the real world. My favourite part has been tasting wines to understand how a wine develops from grape juice to the finished product and how tasting informs winemaking decisions.
Travis Salisbury
I was born in Durban, South Africa but spent most of my time growing up in Cape Town. Working in hospitality after finishing school stimulated my love for winemaking and viticulture. With a challenging harvest and half the semester behind us already, this year's college experience has
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> Catherine Westmacott run smoothly with no interruptions. I have experience of working in other wineries. However, this year has made me feel more settled and reinforced my practical winemaking knowledge and expertise. Our group classes are small, which allows us to have greater one on one time with Deepika, the winemaker, and more chances to learn and operate the equipment. The winery sessions have prepared me for my placement abroad over the summer, and I look forward to what the next semester offers.
Catherine Westmacott
I've spent a lot of my life living in London but spent most of my childhood in North Yorkshire, where my parents live and the place I consider home. The start of the second year has made the theory of the first year an interactive and exciting reality. I enjoy working in my winery group and with our instructor, Deepika, an excellent teacher who is very patient with us. I've always done better learning on the job, and it's great to be doing a practical course where we can learn from our mistakes. Having come from a corporate background, the first year was pretty tough on my confidence, particularly in the lab. This second-year however has presented more opportunities to work with fruit; we've pressed and made wine and taken many lab analyses, allowing us to get a complete picture of winemaking. Needless to say, my confidence has improved a lot.
Visit www.plumpton.ac.uk for more information F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D
NEWS
New Zealand Winegrowers launches 2021 Mentoring Programme New Zealand Winegrowers has launched its 2021 Mentoring Programme. The programme aims to support wine industry members by helping participants to increase their confidence, focus on their selfdevelopment and reach their goals. The programme matches one mentee with an experienced mentor from within the New Zealand wine industry, following a selection and matching process. The pair then meet regularly over the next six to eight months as the mentee sets goals, makes plans to reach them and is encouraged and supported by their mentor. Previous mentors and mentees have found the programme valuable, with the 2021 programme the biggest so far including 18 matched pairs. Applications were received throughout September and October, matches made and the mentor and mentee workshops run by Fiona
Fenwick were held at Giesen’s Ara Wooldshed Cellar Door in Blenheim. Auckland mentors had their session online due to Covid-19 Alert Level restrictions. The mentors, all experienced wine industry professionals, generously volunteer their time and knowledge. They are incredibly passionate about New Zealand wine and the industry itself, so enjoy giving back and helping others within in it progress. The programme was over-subscribed and the calibre of applications high, according to NZ Winegrowers. “It’s exciting to see how many people from a wide range of roles are wanting to further themselves and their careers within the wine industry,” said Nicky Grandorge, leadership and communities manager at NZ Winegrowers. “Likewise, it’s fantastic to see the passion and generosity of the mentors as they share their
vast wine knowledge and experiences to help others thrive.” This year, thanks to the generosity of AnA Selection Cooperage, The Marlborough Lab Network, Klima, and New World, scholarships were available to support extra people onto the programme. The 2021 mentors are: Andy Crozier, Burn Cottage; Andy Dodds, Cameron McKnight and Francis Hutt, Indevin; Dom Maxwell, Greystone; Gwyn Williams, Vinecare; Jane Hunter, Hunters; Jen Parr, Valli; Jules Taylor, Jules Taylor; Len Ibbotson, Bragato Research Centre; Lesley Boon, Pernod Ricard; Michelle Richardson, Dionysus Investments; Mike Brown, Marlborough Grapegrowers Co-operative; MJ Loza and Task Florens, AONZ; Nick Entwistle, Rose Family Estate; Simon Fell, Villa Maria and Philip Gregan, NZ Winegrowers.
Sparkling wine sales boom Berry Bros. & Rudd (BBR), the famous wine and spirts retailer, has unveiled its fourth quarter financial data for 2021, which show increasing demand for sparkling wine and a surge in online sales. According to one of, if not the oldest wine retailer in the world wine, sparkling wine dominated the big hitters, with BBR's 'Own Selection' Champagne Mailly Grand Cru seeing sales increase by 62% YOY. BBR claims online sales (covering the period November 1 to December 31) were up 13% year-on-year and 107% on 2019, while the average online order value increased by 19%. “We have worked very hard to fix the basics for customers, including improving our online operation. We are pleased to see the results coming through in such strong online sales for this period and are delighted to have maintained the overall growth momentum across the business from the last two years,” said BBR CEO Emma Fox.
Vinescapes appoints Jo Cowderoy as Marketing Manager Jo Cowderoy, former editor of Vineyard, has been appointed as marketing manager for Vinescapes and its partner business, Veraison, based in Dorking, Surrey. Vinescapes claims to be the leading vineyard and winery development consultancy providing world class research, strategic and operational expertise to grape and wine producers. Vinescapes is partnered by Veraison who provide bespoke vineyard establishment and management services. Jo brings a wealth of sector knowledge with more than 20 years’ experience within the wine industry, both in the UK and France, working in sales and marketing, exports, as well as production. Jo was responsible for setting up and delivering the very successful DEFRA funded WineSkills industry training programme from 2010-2015, while teaching in the wine division at Plumpton College and will use her skills to develop a much-needed new training provision from Vinescapes - critical for the future success of the UK wine sector. In her subsequent role as WineGB’s Operations Manager Jo further
expanded her unique position in, and her experience of, the UK wine sector. Jo Cowderoy said: “I have worked closely with Alistair in the past and couldn’t wait to be part of his dynamic and ambitious team that is bringing so much benefit and support to the industry. I have seen how Vinescapes, with a science-based approach, and client focused values, is clearly leading vineyard and winery development in the UK and am thrilled to be joining them as they expand.” Vinescapes’ CEO Dr Alistair Nesbitt, said: “We are delighted to welcome Jo to our team. She has brilliant media, industry and training experience that will help us drive forward Vinescapes ambitious goals and growth plans. I first worked with Jo 10-years ago and it’s great to be back working alongside such a skilled, knowledgeable and fun colleague.” Veraison MD Joel Jorgensen added: “This is such an exciting time for the UK wine sector, and Jo will be a great asset to Veraison as we grow our dedicated and meticulous vineyard management and consultancy services.”
F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D
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WINEMAKING
M a rk C
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Performing sensory assessments
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Critical points to think about when tasting and blending. Technically, wine is always in a state of flux and never truly stable. Many small scale chemical reactions are ongoing once wine has been stabilised such as tannins polymerising and hydrolysing into different compounds. It is particularly important to be aware of this for your wine flavour profile and its development as well as also to check against wine taints or faults that may be occurring at the early stages. With the bottling and blending season just around the corner, it is not just the ability to taste for faults which is important but also to taste for flavour and mouthfeel. There are a few different techniques and methods for sensory assessment methods such as the duo-trio; paired comparison; paired preference; same/ different; and the triangle test. It is important for winemakers to choose the right method for the necessary application, so consider if you are looking at adding something during the winemaking process to improve aroma, or flavour, as well as mouthfeel and structure. A triangle test is a more commonly used method. The protocol involved is one where tasters assess the aroma and palate of the three wines and circle the code of the sample that is different from the other two. If no difference is perceived, the taster must guess. It is important to ensure minimum tasters in order to make the assessment statistically significant, with four out of five people correctly identifying the different wine. Below are important considerations to uphold to ensure a good and correct sensory assessment to get the best out of the wine tasting. ◆ Blind tasting is recommended. Blind tasting means that the taster has no idea which wine is being tasted and the order is randomised with no clues or hints to minimise bias. ◆ Include a minimum of two independent tasters into the tasting group. People’s ability to taste varies with some tasters able to recognise, or not, certain aromas that the other might not be able to pick up. ◆ Training with standardised kits is important to better understand wine faults. It also allows individuals and staff to improve their tasting and sensory skills and can increase your range of tasters for specific aromas and taints. ◆ Perform multiple tastings. Guessing is quite common and there are other risks of people making mistakes. To reduce the effect of human error, without increasing the number of tasters, you can repeat the tasting in a different order to ensure a statistically significant result. ◆ Maintain a good tasting environment. Visual stimulation, tiredness, fill height, temperature and other visual and external sensory cues can all change the sensory perception of flavours. Maintaining consistency in the tasting room with pre-poured 30ml samples at a constant temperature (20oc) with random presentation and limiting the length of time the tasting takes place (one hour max) should keep the tasting consistent. ◆ Communication should be kept to a minimum between tasters. Tasters should be quiet and keep judgements private, even body language should be controlled as much as possible, in case this influences another taster’s judgement. Facing away from each other and using their own scoring sheet is imperative.
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◆ Don’t taste when tired. Tiredness, hunger and emotional state can affect a tasting. Generally keep tastings at least half an hour after a meal or drinking. The morning is generally preferred. Limit the number of samples to be tasted to six or seven and allow for a short rest before the next flight of samples are to be tasted. ◆ Consider difference before preference. Identifying a difference between the wines is more important than choosing the preferred wine. It is important to establish a significant difference between the samples otherwise there is little point in changing from the original wine. Preference is important and can persuade someone to choose one sample over the other, while this is helpful in the decision making it is critical to identify a real difference between the samples that can be reliably, and repeatedly, identified before making costly decisions.
Wine faults and taints
Although always to be avoided where possible, dealing with wine faults is part of the course for a winemaker. It is vital to correct issues that may arise during the winemaking process. Being able to identify the common faults and understanding your own limitations in recognising certain faults is important in being able to address issues and minimise further reduction in wine quality. Wine taints are different from faults as they typically have an exogenous source such as cork taint whereas faults come from the winemaking process. Common taints and faults are listed below and there are a great range of Laffort products that can help reduce or remove some of these issues. It is, however, always best to avoid them in the first place by employing best practice in winemaking and later bottling and packaging.
Wine faults
Wine taints
Oxidation-ty pe faults
Cork-ty pe taints
◆
◆
◆ ◆ ◆ ◆
Oxidation Acetaldehyde Volatile acidity Ethyl acetate Mousiness
Additive-related faults ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆
Sulfur dioxide (SO2) Diacetyl Geranium Brettanomyces faults
Reductive wine faults ◆ ◆ ◆ ◆
Hydrogen sulfide Mercaptans Disulfides Dimethyl sulfide (DMS)
◆ ◆
2,4,6-Trichloroanisole (TCA) 2,4,6-Tribromoanisole (TBA) 2-Methoxy-3,5-dimethyl pyrazine (Fungal must)
Chlorophenol/ Plastic-type taints ◆ ◆
2,4- + 2,6 -Dichlorophenol Indole
Earthy-ty pe taints ◆
Geosmin
Smoke taint ◆ ◆
Guaiacol 4-Methylguaiacol
DESKTOP www.berlinpackaging.co.uk phone-alt 07805 081677 ENVELOPE Mark.Crumpton@berlinpackaging.com
Products available from Laffort to enhance sweetness and mouthfeel: OENOLEES®
Specific preparation of yeast cell walls with a high sapid peptide content (Patent EP 1850682). OENOLEES® contributes towards improving organoleptic quality in wine by reducing aggressive sensations, refi ning action that promotes elimination of certain polyphenols responsible for bitterness and astringency. It also increases sweet sensations specific peptide fraction that has an extremely low perception threshold (16 mg/L against 3 g/L for sucrose) and helps to reduce Ochratoxin A levels. Dosage: 20-40 g/hL
MANNOSPARK®
From each flute of sparkling wine, no fewer than a million bubbles are set free! The harmonious organisation of this whirlwind of bubbles in the glass is extremely stimulating to the senses when tasting: to the ear, but also and above all to the eye. The aesthetics of the effervescence is a decisive criterion for consumers who aspire to fine, elegant and persistent bubbles regularly supplying a generous and stable rim to form a harmonious foam. MANNOSPARK® is a formulation based on mannoproteins, resulting from a research programme launched by LAFFORT® in 2014, in collaboration with the University of Reims, to improve bubble size and the thickness and stability of the rim.
OENOLEES® MP
Yeast cell wall extract (mannoproteins) rich in sapid peptide (Patent EP 1850682) and polysaccharides. Contributes to increasing the sweetness sensation in wines (red and white). Allows the winemaker to better counterbalance acidity and bitterness. Can be used just prior to bott ling. Dosage: 10-30 g/hL.
TANFRESH®
Instantly dissolving (IDP) ellagic and proanthocyanidic tannin preparation based on grape tannins. To refresh white and rosé wine against oxidation and aty pical ageing. To boost structure and mouthfeel. To help eliminate reductive odours. Dosage: 0,5-6 g/hL
POWERLEES® LIFE
Formulation based on 100% yeast derivatives, suitable for Organic winemaking. POWERLEES® LIFE is particularly rich in reducing compounds including reduced glutathione. R&D work on the study of alternatives to sulphites during ageing allowed us to select these inactivated yeasts for their ability to slow down oxygen consumption in wines. Used once or several times throughout ageing, POWERLEES® LIFE protects wines from premature oxidation, refreshes already oxidised wines and increases ageing potential. Very high protection potential, particularly in the context of producing wines without added sulphites.
QUERTANIN® Q2
Stave-grade ellagitannins extracted from the heartwood of American oak for the ageing of white, red and rosé wines. Developed using an innovative extraction process, QUERTANIN® Q2 has all the qualities of American oak. QUERTANIN® Q2 acts on the tannic structure and contributes to the balance of wines by regulating redox phenomena and by recreating a medium rich in ellagitannins identical to that provided by a new barrel.
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Representing you Working in partnership with Vineyard magazine for a developing UK wine industry. WineGB is the national trade body representing the vine growers and winemakers of Great Britain from the largest producers to small hobbyists. Our members work together with the organisation to develop strategy, expertise and marketing opportunities for long-term, sustainable success.
facebook-f twitter INSTAGRAM linkedin-in
@winegb
@Wine_GB @winegb @winegb
If you are interested in wine production in the UK find out more about WineGB and join us. Visit our website www.winegb.co.uk
Focus areas for 2022 WineGB will focus on the following key areas this year:
On-trade
Additional support for the on-trade this year after a tough two years for the sector. This will include a one-day wine school later in the year to strengthen relationships with the sommelier community.
Sustainability
Commitment to supporting sustainability in every aspect of the industry through Sustainable Wines of Great Britain (SWGB) and its activities throughout the year. The WineGB Business & Marketing Conference (March) will also focus on economic sustainability.
ON SOCIAL:
WineGB will be building social media campaigns around the following dates: Valentine’s Day (14 February), Global Drink Wine Day (18 February), Open That Bottle Night (26 February) and International Women’s Day (8 March).
JOIN US!
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Photo: Natalia Zielonka
Classic Method
Build awareness of Classic Method as the recognised term for traditional method sparkling wines in Great Britain and support users of the Classic Method Hallmark.
Still wines
Continue to increase recognition of Great Britain’s still wines and the styles within the category.
Other styles
Highlight the diversity of sparkling wine styles produced in Great Britain.
Diversity & Inclusion
Provide further information and support for members, including a free-ofcharge half-day conference.
Wine tourism
Champion the growth of wine tourism in Great Britain and deliver a ‘travel show’ aimed at the travel trade and tourism media.
Export
Assist the work of the WineGB Export Group and disseminate information to members.
Photo: Tom Gold
DATES FOR THE DIARY
New SWGB members Sustainable Wines of Great Britain has welcomed 22 new members in its latest recruitment drive, bringing the total membership to 82. The new vineyards and wineries are Ambriel Sparkling, Bluebell Vineyard Estates, Chet Valley Vineyard, Coates & Seely, Everflyht, Frome Valley Vineyard, Giffords Hall Vineyard, Goose Beck, Halfpenny Green, Hanley Vineyard, Harbours Hill Farm, Harmony Vineyard, JoJo's Vineyard, Kingsthorne, Mallard Point Ltd, Mannings Heath Golf and Wine Estate, Squerryes, Stopham Vineyard, Terlingham Vineyard, Vagabond Wines, Westwell Wine Estates and Wines of the Weald.
10 February WineGB Diversity & Inclusion Conference (half-day, online, FOC and open to all) 15 February WineGB Wessex & Plumpton College regional roadshow (Bluestone Vineyard) 24 February WineGB Uncorked (5pm, Zoom) TBC March WineGB Travel Show 7-13 March International Women’s Day social media campaign TBC April WineGB Business & Marketing Conference
KEY EVENTS WineGB membership entitles you to a free 15-minute consultation with legal firm and WineGB Partner, Paris Smith.
LOOK OUT FOR…
WineGB’s webinar survey. Available exclusively to WineGB members, the WineGB webinars cover everything from winemaking and viticulture to business and marketing. This year, we will be sending out a survey, so we cover what you want.
WineGB D&I Conference The date has now been confirmed for WineGB's first Diversity & Inclusion Conference. Taking place on the morning of 10 February, the virtual event is free-of-charge and open to all wineries, vineyards and the wider drinks trade. Speakers will include Leyla Okhai, CEO and founder of Diverse Minds; Scott Carruthers, regional sales manager at Moët Hennessy; and diversity, equality & inclusion consultant Kirsten Macleod. Stay tuned for a link to register. WineGB Travel Show In March WineGB will host its first Travel Show targeting the wine and travel trade. Due to be held in London, the show will increase awareness of the diverse wine tourism offering now available in the UK.
JOIN WINEGB
phone-alt 01858 467792 paper-plane office@winegb.co.uk globe-asia www.WineGB.co.uk 47 F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D
FRUIT AND VINE TRACTORS IN STOCK AND READY TO GO!
COVERING KENT, SUSSEX AND SURREY
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Avon Works, Cranbrook, TN17 2PT • 01580 712200 • sales@npseymour.co.uk • www.npseymour.co.uk F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D
MACHINERY
Preparing for pruning season With the winter pruning season now here, NP Seymour revisit some of the updates Felco has made to its range in the last 12 months. As the UK’s official sales and service centre for the electronic and pneumatic secateurs manufacture, NP Seymour has been providing fruit growers and viticulturists with Felco’s wide range of secateurs, holsters, saws and diamond coated sharpeners for nearly a decade. “Felco are renowned for its secateurs; they’re a premium brand and widely used by UK viticulturists already,” said Claire Seymour. While Felco only released its new generation of professional electric pruning shears, the Power Blade series last year, the Swiss manufacture has spent the last few months upgrading the range even further.
pruning, cleaner cuts, and a longer blade life compared to conventional steel. The blade, which also requires less sharpening, has been tested against competitors and came out by far the strongest option on the market. Favoured by everyone from vineyard owners, to self-employed pruners, contractors and vineyard staff, the Felco Power Blade XPro range is made up of four different models of electric pruning secateurs including: ◆ the 802 and left-handed version 802G, capable of cutting up to 30mm; ◆ the 812 for pruning up to 35mm; ◆ and the heavy-duty 822 designed for making large, powerful cuts of up to 45mm.
So, what’s new?
Bluetooth connectivity
Well, for a start, the blades are better. Made from special high-speed steel, the XPro blades, which now feature on the Power Blade pruning shears, have been put through an additional hardening process to provide consistent
Those out in the vineyard will be able to take advantage of the new carrying system too, as all models come with a Power Pack 882. Bringing pruning into the 21st century, the Power Blades have also been fitted with Bluetooth connectivity
enabling the shears to talk to the operator’s smartphone or tablet. After installing the new Felco app, operators can adjust the semiopening and activate holster mode. There is also a ‘dashboard’ that shows tool performance data such as the number of cuts, battery life, time of usage and cut size statistics. “It even tells you when your next service is required, the working condition of your tool, and whether it’s still within warranty,” said Claire. “As the area of vines in the country continues to increase at a rapid pace, Felco electronic secateurs are proving to be increasingly popular. With more pruning to be done, many pruners have already discovered the benefits of switching over to electronic secateurs and these new models further help pruners to speed up the job and cover more vines in a day.” For more information on Felco’s full range, please call NP Seymour on 01580 712200.
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Vitifruit Equipment Sales and Hire
BOISSELET WEED CONTROL
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PROVITIS PRE-PRUNER
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www.vitifruitequipment.co.uk /vitifruitequipment
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01732 866567
Visit our website for our full stock list. www.kirklanduk.com
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҉ This Orizzonti Pre-Pruner attachment can be either front or rear mounted. ҉ Fast & adaptable for vineyards.
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98HP Kubota diesel CVT transmission Reverse drive 320/70R20 Ag tyres Air cab with grammar air suspension seat, Cat. 4 pressurised ҉ Road lights, work lights
Kirkland UK, Griffins Farm, Pleasure House Lane, Maidstone, ME17 3NW. Tel. 01622 843013 E. info@kirklanduk.com F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D
vid Sayell & a D
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VITIFRUIT EQUIPMENT
Cutting the cost of pulling out The Provitis VSE ‘Vine Shoot Extractor’ pulls out pre pruned canes at around three hectares per day and is often used in combination with a rear mounted flail mulcher so that the canes are pulled out and shredded simultaneously in one pass and importantly by only one person. Pulling out is roughly half the cost of winter pruning; that half can be substantially reduced when using this machine. Vitifruit Equipment have successfully offered the tools for hire during the past two seasons to either let people try it in their own vineyards on their own tractor as an alternative to sourcing outside labour or as a test of its worthiness prior to purchase. The canes are pulled out sideways in a similar way to when pulled out by hand so, when preparing for use, some simple tasks may be required whilst pruning to make it work with utmost efficiency i.e. lift the top pair of wires to give the wheel better access and if the fruiting canes are twisted along the fruiting wire cut them so that they don’t snag when pulled. As normal the fruiting cane is cut to length with the desired number of buds. No buds are damaged in the pulling out process. An additional benefit is that the VSE is only one of a number of tool modules which can be attached to the Provitis mast which include the Pre-Pruner, Trimmer, De-leafer, double sided Weed Strimmer/Bud Rubber etc all of which are also available for hire.
www.farol.co.uk DESKTOP www.vitifruitequipment.co.uk phone-alt 01732 866567 ENVELOPE vitifruitequipment@sky.com
Rycote Lane Farm, Milton Common, Thame, Oxfordshire, OX9 2NZ Godfrey Drive, Overfield Park, Winthorpe, Newark upon Trent, NG24 2UA Coldridge Copse, Shefford Woodlands, Hungerford, Berkshire, RG17 7BP Wharf Farm, Coventry, Hinckley, Leicestershire, LE10 0NB Holmbush House, Holmbush Ind. Est., Midhurst, West Sussex, GU29 9XY London Road, Twyford, Reading, Berkshire, RG10 9EQ
51 F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D
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