Vineyard May 2022 by KELSEY Media

Y D VINEYAR VINEYARD YAR For Growers & Winemakers in Great Britain ™

MAY 2022

Quintessentially English

INSIDE The secret life of nitrogen A viticulturist's diary Glass bottles excluded from Deposit Return Scheme Matthew Jukes hopes your inventory management is timed correctly

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www.vineyardmagazine.co.uk VINEYARD Kelsey Media, The Granary, Downs Court Yalding Hill, Yalding, Maidstone, Kent, ME18 6AL 01959 541444 EDITORIAL Editor: Christian Davis vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk GRAPHIC DESIGN Jo Legg Flair Creative Design jo.legg@flair-design.co.uk ADVERTISEMENT SALES Jamie McGrorty 01303 233883 jamie.mcgrorty@kelsey.co.uk

10 Balfour Winery selected to

develop a boutique wine hotel

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First English producer to age wines under the sea

REGULARS 22 Matthew Jukes

It’s that time of year again. If you are lucky, you will have timed your inventory management correctly.

24 Meet the buyer

Marien Rodríguez is responsible for buying English and Welsh wines’ along with Germany, Austria, Eastern Europe and Rest of the World.

PHOTOGRAPHER Martin Apps www.countrywidephotographic.co.uk MANAGEMENT CHIEF EXECUTIVE: Steve Wright CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER: Phil Weeden MANAGING DIRECTOR: Kevin McCormick PUBLISHER: Jamie McGrorty RETAIL DIRECTOR: Steve Brown RENEWALS AND PROJECTS MANAGER: Andy Cotton SENIOR SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING MANAGER: Nick McIntosh SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING DIRECTOR: Gill Lambert SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING MANAGER: Kate Chamberlain SENIOR PRINT PRINT PRODUCTION MANAGER: Georgina Harris PRINT PRODUCTION CONTROLLER: Kelly Orriss

Glass bottles excluded from Deposit Return Scheme

The agronomy diary

Controlling weeds offers frost and yield benefits

41 The vine post

In review: Your (pruning) will be carried out to the following specification.

52 Filling technology ups quality 54 Representing you WineGB Awards are now open.

Machinery

Range breaks the back of knapsack spraying.

Features

26 A spirited approach

Many wine producers are looking to making spirits particularly with the fascination with gin, Ted Bruning an experienced observer of the drinks sector, puts the case.

Data driven vine management

Precision soil analysis and satellite imagery are shortening the time needed to assess a site while improving management for the long-term.

Front cover image: Henners © Martin Apps, Countrywide Photographic

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CONTENTS Features In conversation...

London Wine Fair organiser Hannah Tovey had a shock a few months ago when Prowein organisers decided, without any prior consultation, to move their show.

Quintessentially English

Henners may be quintessentially English but the name comes from a French nobleman and it is owned by a company with strong French and South African connections.

A viticulturist's diary

In the second of his series of a ‘A Day in the life of a Viticulturist' series, Sam Doncaster at Rebschule Freytag, in the Pfalz region discusses grafting and handling.

The secret life of nitrogen

Nitrogen has a reputation for being complicated to measure with unpredictable plant-availability. We find out from some of the experts how to demystify nitrogen in vines.

n Davis

a st i

Time of turmoil

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TRURO

From the editor

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It is difficult to be positive and optimistic in these difficult, challenging, times. Brexit (arguably) was bad enough. Then we had the Covid-19 pandemic (still with us) and now the Ukraine… Recently, a potato farmer and supplier of chipped potatoes to the fish n’ chip trade was featured on BBC News. Basically standing in a fallow field, he said he could not afford to plant anything because of the escalating cost of fertiliser (much of which comes from the Ukraine, apparently), rising fuel costs and, of course the raw material, in his case, potatoes. He cut a forlorn figure and portrayed a depressing scene. Some people, cynics in the main and without any positive foundation, say farmers, like taxi drivers, are always moaning, seeing the bad side of everything. Well, there is no getting away from the real and potential stratospheric rise in prices of almost everything and especially of things we all take for granted. How many people knew that a great deal of fertiliser comes from the Ukraine? So without having one’s head in the sand, or whatever soil accommodates, it is gratifying to be able to report so many vineyard owners in England and Wales investing in the future. We have Ridgeview, absolute pioneers of premium quality sparkling English wine, announcing a new ‘tourism centre’ with a wine tasting room, on-site dining, tours and direct-to-consumer retail. Then there is Balfour Winery announcing that it has been selected to develop a boutique wine hotel championing local wines, spirits and produce at the historic Archbishop’s Palace in Maidstone, Kent. On a quirky note, we have Hampshire sparkling wine producer, Exton Park, announcing its 2014 vintage ‘sea-aged’ Blanc de Blanc, ‘60 Below’, which has spent 12 months ageing under the sea off the coast of Brest in Brittany. Weird but not the first. Then there is The Uncommon’s canned English bubbly at 38,000 feet with Virgin Atlantic and Chapel Down is now the official sparkling wine of the England and Wales Cricket Board. And of course we have the Buckingham Palace Platinum Jubilee English Sparkling wine (see News pages). So while we have absolutely no grounds for complacency. Obviously, some of these projects were instigated way before many of our current setbacks commenced. Nevertheless, on a cursory glance of our news pages, all seems extremely positive and optimistic in our back yard. Long may that continue. Onward and upward.

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NEWS

Glass bottles excluded from Deposit Return Scheme DEFRA has announced that it will not be including glass bottles in the Deposit Return Scheme (DRS) for England and Northern Ireland. As part of DEFRA’s Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for Packaging consultation summary, the department said some responses raised concerns over glass. Wine and Spirit Trade Association chief executive Miles Beale said: “We are pleased that DEFRA has listened to industry concerns about the inclusion of glass and has announced that glass containers will not be part of any future DRS scheme in England or Northern Ireland. From the outset, the WSTA has argued – often as a lone voice - that the best way to increase glass recycling rates is to improve kerbside collection, rather than introduce a completely new regime. “There are fundamental challenges to including glass within DRS, such as the collection process, increased emissions, handling costs, equipment complexity, loss of storage space for retailers, reduced quality of clear glass, as well as health and safety concerns. DEFRA has listened and should be congratulated for recognising and taking on board those concerns.

“It is disappointing that not all nations of the UK share this same approach of evidence-based policy making. The consequence of Scotland and Wales taking different approaches will make it harder for businesses to trade across the UK. Currently it looks very likely that the UK

will see the introduction of three different DRS systems, each requiring different labels, stock separation and far greater administration. This will inevitably mean increased costs for producers and consumers and potentially reduced consumer choice,” said Miles Beale.

Norwegians love English fizz

Norway now buys about half of all English wine exports, and sales in the country have tripled since 2018. Sweden is the second largest international market for English wine, Finland is fifth and Denmark is seventh, according to a story in The Times back in March. WinesGB said exports increased by 20% in 2021, compared with 2020, partly due to the huge demand from Norway. Fredrik Medhus, a partner at the Oslo Wine Agency, Norway’s fourth biggest importer, said: “Sales of English wines have grown every month for years and are still increasing. “Norwegians are very open to trying new things. The main thing is that the quality is there. We’ve always been a top market for Chablis and German Rieslings. We love and understand cool-climate wines with high acidity.” Except for alcohol bought in bars and restaurants, wine in Norway is sold exclusively by Vinmonopolet, the government-owned chain of off-licences, with supermarkets banned from doing so. The off-licences are not open on Sundays or after 6pm on weekdays and 4pm on Saturdays to limit the availability of alcohol. Wine can be bought online but only through Vinmonopolet, and it is delivered to a local off-licence or post office for collection. The tasting panel at Vinmonopolet approves of English grapes. The stores sell 164 English wines. The bestselling sparkling varieties Hattingley Valley and Nyetimber, from southern England, replaced two French champagnes on its core wine list recently.

From April, there will be a dedicated English wine section of high-end bottles in selected stores around Norway, with prices ranging from £30 to £110. Halvor Bing Lorentzen, the director of social responsibility at Vinmonopolet, said: “Norwegians have become aware of the quality of English sparkling wines. It helps that prices aren’t frighteningly high. They have been compared favourably to Champagne by wine writers here.” Nora Paynter Gundersen, the head of product at Flott Gjort, which works with restaurants in Oslo, and a former wine importer, said: “English sparkling wines sell for about the same price as the non-vintage champagnes. Drinkers are quite picky at that high price point, but are ready to buy UK wines because they fit the palate of the Norwegian food style.” As well as Nordic countries, Japan, America, Hong Kong, China, Germany and Switzerland were among the biggest importers of English wine last year. Scotland and Wales produce wine but none is yet exported, according to WineGB. WineGB chairman, Simon Thorpe, said: “We are the new kids on the block and we tend to be most popular in countries that are interested in trying new things but which will pay for quality as well.” Understandably, it has been harder to sell English wine to the French, Spanish and Italians – although not impossible. Nyetimber, England’s largest producer of sparkling wine, now sells to restaurants in Cannes and even Paris, less than 100 miles from the Champagne region.

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NEWS

Balfour Winery selected to develop a boutique wine hotel Richard Balfour-Lynn’s proposal to create a boutique wine hotel in the Archbishop’s Palace, Maidstone, Kent, has been accepted by Maidstone Borough Council. One of Kent’s most historic buildings dating back to the 12th century, the Archbishop’s Palace has extensive gardens and outbuildings and the plan is to create three new buildings for luxury bedrooms in the grounds overlooking the River Medway and the River Len. The vision is to create a boutique hotel with restaurants and bars and state-of -the-art wedding and conference facilities. At the heart of the development, in the palace itself, will be a wine and viticultural educational centre. But the key component of the whole enterprise is English wine and spirits with the focus on Kent-

based producers and locally sourced food. The palace will remain open to the public. Balfour Winery on the Hush Heath Estate, Staplehurst, is part of a group known as the Wine Garden of England, a partnership of the eight major wineries in Kent that was formed a few years ago to promote the growing wine tourism sector. The vision is that Maidstone, an hour away from London, will become the urban centre of the Kent wine industry and that The Archbishop’s Palace will provide a hub and a focal point for all Kent wineries. Richard Balfour-Lynn said: “The Archbishop’s Palace will become both the champion and beating heart of Kent wines, spirits and local food produce. Part of our plans will be to run

tutored wine tastings as well as wine making and viticultural courses from the venue with the palace becoming the centre of the Kent wine tourist sector, attracting visitors from London and further afield. Authenticity will lie at the heart of the offer.” Richard Balfour-Lynn has an exclusive six-month contract to develop the plans with the council and the planning team. With a 40-year track record in hospitality, notably Hotel Du Vin, Malmaison and De Vere hotels, Richard BalfourLynn is well placed to develop and run this pioneering venture. Maidstone claims to be Kent’s most significant town at the heart of the growing Kent wine industry. The hotel should create more than 100 new jobs.

> Archbishop’s Palace

Photo: ©Chris Mansfield

Scientific paper sparks 400% growth

The vineyard area in East Anglia has increased by just over 400% in four years- triggered by the scientific paper ‘A Suitability Model for Viticulture in England and Wales’. This scientific paper, published in the Journal of Land Use Science, was the most downloaded paper in 2021 – showing the increasing interest in viticulture in the UK. Researchers, led by Dr Alistair Nesbitt, viticulture climatologist and CEO of Vinescapes, identified 35,000ha of prime viticulture land for new and expanding vineyards in the UK – the size of the

Champagne region of France. The paper also revealed, among other details, that East Anglia has some of the warmest growing season average temperatures in the UK and would likely be the next major area to be planted – and the latest data shows this estimation is spot-on. Since the paper’s publication in 2018, the East Anglia region has seen just over 400% growth, from just under 100ha to over 400ha, according to figures from the Food Standards Agency Wine Inspection Team.

Brew-School has introduced a new two-day course on Viticulture and Winemaking, describing it as ‘the perfect introduction to aspiring vineyard owners and UK wine producers’. The tutor on this course is award-winning English wine producer and author Kieron Atkinson from the English Wine Project and Renishaw Hall Vineyard. The course is also said to include a half day exclusive behind the scenes tour of the Renishaw Hall vineyard. Day 1, on viticulture the course comprises: ◆ The history of wine making in the UK ◆ Site selection and ground preparation ◆ Grape genera and species; both red and white ◆ Growing vines, pruning and management ◆ The importance of micro climates, temperature, sunlight, rainfall, soil composition (PH, structure, drainage) ◆ How to establish your vineyard, root stock and where to purchase. ◆ The costs of establishing a vineyard and business planning Finally, we look at harvesting and picking techniques and timings

New two day Viticulture & Winemaking Course Day 2 Oenology and a look at small scale wine production including: Fruit parameters, wine making equipment, grape crushing, cleaning, winemaking choices, additions, SO2, yeast, enzymes, bacteria, maturation, bottling, labelling and marketing and selling of your wine commercially.

Brew-school claims the course is “fun and interactive; but is also an intensive introduction by one of the UK’s leading wine makers to the world of grape cultivation and small scale wine production”. The course takes place in Bakewell on June 25/26 and costs £395.

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NEWS

Ridgeview announces new hospitality project Ridgeview, one of the UK's best sparkling wine producers has announced plans to develop a tourism centre. The Sussex-based winery, said the new all-weather, outdoor venue will take pride of place alongside Ridgeview’s Chardonnay vineyard with views across the South Downs National Park. It will encompass a wine tasting room, on-site dining, tours and direct-to-consumer retail. “The space will be landscaped in harmony with its natural surroundings, crafted by RHS Chelsea Flower Show gold medal winning designer Andy Sturgeon. All of Ridgeview’s new investments and growth will have sustainability in mind after the vineyard and winery have been accredited under WineGB Sustainability scheme and will deliver net gains for biodiversity across the estate,” said a Ridgeview spokesperson. The onsite development also includes an extension to Ridgeview’s winery facilities and is

the start of additional visitor experiences planned for the next few years. Tamara Roberts, Ridgeview’s secondgeneration CEO said: “Our philosophy of ‘Life is for Celebrating’ will be experienced throughout the whole destination. We want to create a place where visitors feel welcome time and time again, to simply pop in for a glass, to celebrate together with friends and family or to spend the day with

us enjoying a tour and tasting too.” “Our focus will also be on championing locally grown seasonal Sussex food, showcased alongside our portfolio of sparkling wines to highlight the best that our gorgeous county produces, where you can eat and drink the South Downs,” she added. Ridgeview’s new hospitality centre is scheduled to open later this summer.

OF&G push for policy recognition with launch of organic manifesto

The largest certifier of organic land in the UK, Organic Farmers & Growers (OF&G) has published its manifesto ‘Championing organic within agricultural policy’ to highlight the key advantages of the organic approach in response to the unprecedented transitional upheaval in the farming sector. OF&G chief executive, Roger Kerr, believes that terms like regenerative and agroecological, which lack legally defined, whole-system standards, create increasing confusion. “We are asking that organic, with its proven ‘real world’ evidence of delivery, is given clear and unambiguous recognition,” said Mr Kerr. “Policymakers must acknowledge organic’s potential to contribute positively to the challenges we all face, in alleviating the social and environmental impacts of our farming and food system.” The blueprint sets out the case for why policymakers should consider organic and to help farmers, food businesses and consumers recognise the multiple benefits organic delivers. “Time is running out for prudent decisions to be made within DEFRA,” he said. “A lack of detail and continuing uncertainty is hampering the development of agricultural policy and regulation which, in turn, means farmers are unable to make long term plans.” “OF&G has been lobbying continuously on behalf of our licensees to secure organic’s inclusion within future farming policy frameworks. Progress feels very slow when, in our opinion, the legal regulatory

M AY 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D

framework that already underpins organic farming, also offers a firm basis to help deliver on DEFRA’s stated aims for the provision of public goods in a substantive and cost-effective way.” Establishing 10 core reasons why organic deserves to be acknowledged, the manifesto covers key issues such as globally recognised standards, transformative farming practices, food supply chain, carbon sequestration, biodiversity enhancements and market opportunities. The manifesto also features a case study based on one of DEFRA’s Test and Trials, run on the organically managed Cholderton Estate in Wiltshire. Roger Kerr insists that with decades of research supporting organic’s positive outcomes, the publication of the manifesto provides an opportunity to convey a concise and factual account of its advantages that will encourage wider recognition. “We felt it important to strip the manifesto back to the essential truths,” continues Roger. “OF&G is not suggesting every UK farm embrace organic conversion, but that a range of diverse approaches, including organic, will help protect our environment while delivering the resilience and adaptations necessary for UK farmers to continue to produce food in the face of the increasing climate volatility that we will see in the coming years. “Everyone has a vested interest in supporting more benign, sustainable practices to safeguard the future. Environmentally favourable farming practices are undergoing re-invention and rebranding, however organic provides the only clear, current and verified solution.”

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NEWS

First English producer to age wines under the sea Hampshire sparkling wine producer Exton Park previews its 2014 vintage sea-aged Blanc de Blanc, ‘60 Below’, which has spent 12 months ageing under the sea off the coast of Brest in Brittany, France, still in its pre-disgorgement form. Under French law, Champagne can only leave the maisons’ cellar door after disgorgement has taken place. Whereas, Exton Park has been able to conduct its own experiment to see what happens when its wine remains on its lees completely sealed off from outside air at 60 metres under the water. Exton Park Wine director Corinne Seely said: “Key here is the fact that there is a perpetual movement on the bottles while they are resting on their lees under the water – darkness and temperature are already replicated in the cellar, but what is going to be so interesting is to see the effect that the constant and gentle movement of the sea has on the ageing of the wines, as well as the similar pressure outside and inside the bottle.” Exton Park plans to release 180 of these limited-edition wines later this year, when they will have had seven years of lees-ageing in total – of which one was under the sea. Seely adds: “We have spent the last ten years experimenting and innovating in our winery. The English wine industry is still a relatively young one, but we are not constrained by the same regulations as the Champagne Houses. The ‘under-the-sea’ project is an opportunity for us to really push the boundaries and test how our wines respond to ageing in different conditions.” To immerse the wine in the best possible location, Exton Park worked with Amphoris, a team of marine project specialists. Their

UK wine brand Chapel Down is the official sparkling wine of the England and Wales Cricket Board (ECB). The partnership will involve serving Chapel Down fizz at a selection of key events, including the men’s international, women’s international and domestic cricket finals. The wines will be offered to winning teams on the podium during their victory celebrations. Chapel Down CEO Andrew Carter said: “We are thrilled to be the official sparkling wine to the England and Wales Cricket Board and delighted that future English cricket success will be celebrated

M AY 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D

‘underwater cellar’ is said to offer a safe and secure location away from fishing and military activity, as well as complete darkness, a constant temperature and specific sea bed, current and swell characteristics. Denis Drouin, Amphoris, said: “Amphoris has designed an innovative underwater ageing service, specifically for wine professionals, that offers a more scientific approach. Our underwater cellars (-60m and -20m water depth) hold tens of thousands of bottles of Champagne, sparkling wine, still wine and spirits in patented caissons. They are located at the heart of the Molène archipelago, near the island of Ouessant (Ushant), Atlantic Ocean,

off the coast of Brittany, which we believe is the best possible location to meet our strict, scientific criteria.” 60 Below will be released in October so it will be available initially through The Vault before it goes into general release at www.extonparkvineyard.com. Exton Park is a Hampshire sparkling wine producer with a 60-acre single vineyard planted on a south facing slope in the South Downs National Park. Its first vines were planted in 2003, including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, and its state-of-the-art winery was built in 2011. Exton Park is now distributed to the UK On-Trade and Off-Trades via Bancroft Wines.

Chapel Down announces new cricket partnership with Chapel Down, English sparkling wine.” Russell James, ECB’s sales & marketing director, added: “We are delighted to be bringing some sparkle to the cricket summer through this partnership with Chapel Down. It’s great to be teaming up with a quality homegrown brand across international, domestic

and recreational cricket.” The partnership is the latest in a growing number of sporting associations undertaken by the brand; Chapel Down is already showcased as the official sparkling wine of the Oxford & Cambridge boat race, and across Ascot Racecourse throughout the year.

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Buzz and excitement Defined Wines commit to this year’s Vineyard & Winery Show.

Defined Wines has announced its continued sponsorship of the Vineyard Show’s Wine Hub, which will once again be showcasing 100 of the UK’s best wines. Defined’s CEO Henry Sugden said: “I think it is really important to showcase the wide range of wines and styles that are being produced in the UK now and it is a fantastic opportunity for people to taste other wines which can’t but help lift everyone’s standards. When asked what he found most impressive about last year’s Vineyard & Winery Show Henry said: “I was impressed by the buzz and sense of excitement from everyone about English and Welsh wines and what the potential is. There was such a positive atmosphere. “For the 2022 event we will probably be showcasing one of our newest services: ‘transversage’ – transferring standard sized sparkling bottles under pressure into big format bottles (magnum, jeroboam and methuselah) which is great for those wishing to make a statement,” said Henry. As a contract-only winery, Defined does not have any vineyards or brands of its own. Everything it does is about adding value to the people it makes wine for. It is totally focussed on supporting its clients and working with them to define their style of wine and involving them in winemaking decisions. Hence the name: 'Defined Wine'. The team approach is to use taste, experience and modern technology to ensure that it can produce the best quality wines for the client. As good wine starts in the vineyard, the Defined team also provides viticulture support for the growers it works with, helping them to improve their knowledge and the quality of their grapes.

M AY 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D

The Vineyard Show takes place on 23 November 2022 at the Detling Showground, near Maidstone, Kent > Henry Sugden and Nick Lane at last year's show

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NEWS

Food Drink Devon appoint head drinks judge

Spreading awareness Ferovinum is sponsoring the show’s seminars, which this year are being organised by WineGB. “Last year’s inaugural event was a great success, coming off the back of Covid-19 and we thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to catch up with existing friends from the industry together with lots of new faces," said Max Noble, Ferovinum’s head of growth. “We've worked with WineGB to tailor a financing product for UK wine producers so exhibitions are a great opportunity to spread awareness and give people an opportunity to ask us directly about how the Ferovinum platform could work for them. Max Noble added that last year there was a real buzz in the room and they really enjoyed the discussion around some of the key challenges and opportunities that their clients are focused on such as wine tourism and the impact climate change is having on the market. “We look forward to showing how our technology has moved along since last year and we have some exciting new features that we’ve started to trial with clients to preview,” he said. “We are hoping to see equal, or greater, numbers as the UK, hopefully puts Covid-19 behind us and looks forward to what we see as an exciting future,” concludes Ferovinum’s Max Noble.

Food Drink Devon has appointed well known national drinks writer, drinks columnist for the Sunday Telegraph and drinks editor for Delicious magazine, Susy Atkins, to its board of directors. Atkins will head up the judging of the drinks categories in the 2022 Food Drink Devon Awards the deadline for entries closed last month. Food Drink Devon chair Greg Parsons said: “We are delighted to announce that Susy has agreed to join us on the board of Food Drink Devon. Susy brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise in the drinks industry, in addition to the invaluable perspective of an award-winning journalist who writes for a number of national titles and has worked alongside leading chefs such as James Martin, Mitch Tonks and Michael Caines. She is the perfect person to head up the judging of the drinks category of our awards. With her unsurpassed experience, Susy is able to judge all entrants against the best in the industry, not just in Devon.” Susy Atkins said: “I am passionate about the burgeoning Devon drinks industry and thrilled to have so many talented producers on my doorstep. Having been part of the judging process for the awards for some years, I have been impressed with how much Food Drink Devon does to support its members and promote Devon as a fabulous food and drink destination. I am delighted to be able to add my skills to the talented pool of board directors and hope that I will be able to play my part in the success of this dynamic organisation.”

Denbies ranked most Instagrammable Denbies Wine Estate in Dorking has been ranked the ‘most Instagrammable’ vineyard in Britain in a study by luxury travel company, The Thinking Traveller. Denbies has clocked up 10,396 posts on Instagram, according to the research. Llanerch Vineyard Hotel in Rhondda Cynon Taff (5,727) and Camel Valley in Cornwall (2,599) are next in the running. Founded in 1984, the family-run vineyard is one of the largest wine producers in the UK and has won accolades for its sparkling and still wines. The estate stretches over 627 acres, 200 of which are woodlands. There are seven miles of public footpaths running through the estate.

Not-for-profit wine festival A not-for-profit wine festival takes place on 16 July at Sessions House, the historical building of Kent County Council in Maidstone. It is described as a ‘high profile event’, involving Maidstone Borough Council and Kent County Council, paid for and organised by One Maidstone Business Improvement District. The organisation is a not-for-profit organisation with volunteer (unpaid) directors and is said to have an excellent track record in organising large events in partnership with all the local agencies. The public pre-pays a £15 entrance ticket per person and, on the day, the entrance fee will be refunded via a token so that it can be spent towards any produce sold by the vineyards exhibiting. For example it can be redeemed towards a glass of wine, a bottle of wine or even against any forward sales like vineyard tours, tastings, hospitality packages etc... One Maidstone says each vineyard will be reimbursed in full the value of the tokens that are redeemed with them so it is low risk to the exhibitor as there is a guaranteed amount of sale with every person entering the festival.

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NEWS

Canned English bubbly at 38,000 feet Canned English sparkling winemaker, The Uncommon, has launched tasting experiences on selected Virgin Atlantic upper class cabins. The airline’s latest A350 aircraft features a new social space for upper class passengers called ‘The Booth’, offering ‘elevated experiences’ for two. The Uncommon cans became available across

the entire Virgin Atlantic fleet from last month. Tucked away in the Upper Class cabin, The Booth is said to aspire to create a cosy corner, providing comfy lounge style seating. Apparently, it offers a number of experiences for two, including wine tasting with The Uncommon. The partnership is said to mark the first time

London Wine Fair to welcome new and returning exhibitors

Buckingham Palace Platinum Jubilee English Sparkling wine

Several high-profile producers, agents and generic bodies will be at this year’s London Wine Fair, either for the first time or returning after a significant break, according to LWF organisers Brintex. With a few weeks to go, it is already close to selling out, with 85% of the space reserved. After a two-year hiatus during which time the UK wine industry has been hit by the double impact of Brexit and the pandemic, this increased investment in the LWF reflects a renewed confidence in the UK wine market. Event director Hannah Tovey said: “After the setbacks of Brexit and Covid-19 we feel this signals an invigorated UK market and cements the fair as a must-attend drinks industry exhibition.”

Celebrate Her Majesty's Platinum Jubilee year with exquisite English sparkling wine wonderfully presented in a Buckingham Palace gift box. The wine is a classic blend of Chardonnay (50%), Pinot Noir (40%) and Pinot Meunier (10%), made from fruit grown and hand-picked in vineyards in Kent and West Sussex (source unknown). Produced using the traditional method, this is a vintage sparkling wine. Gold in appearance, the wine is said to have enticing aromas of rich and honeyed citrus fruit, white peach and hints of sweet spices. On the palate, preserved lemon, ripe orchard fruit and toasted nuts combine, before a soft, round and silky finish. The label design takes inspiration from the gold embroidery on Her Majesty’s Robe of Estate, worn on the Coronation Day, 2 June 1953. A crowned EIIR cypher is surrounded by golden olive leaves and ears of wheat to symbolise peace and plenty. The royal fizz is only available for delivery to addresses in the UK, Germany, Australia and New Zealand.

Correction

ever that canned wines have been poured in Virgin Atlantic’s upper class cabin. The Uncommon believes it is paving the way for a new era of English wine and challenging the perception of canned wine. Customers in The Booth will be able to sample a curated selection of three wines, which include an English sparkling white and rosé, alongside a lighter, botanically infused spritzer. The 4 x can multipacks will also be available to pre-order through the Retail Therapy magazine in the duty-free offering. The Uncommon co-founder, Henry Connell, said: “We’re on a mission to prove that you can get the highest quality English wine in the more sustainable canned format. Our cans are light, stack tight, chill fast and are recyclable, making them perfect for Virgin’s upper class tasting experience in The Booth.” Virgin Atlantic’s Chief Customer and Operations Officer, Corneel Koster, said: “We always strive to create brilliantly different experiences for our customers and the introduction of The Booth featuring a tasting of The Uncommon’s award-winning English wines demonstrates this perfectly. We’re famous for our on-board social spaces and The Booth elevates the customer proposition for our leisure travellers to new heights.”

In the last issue of Vineyard, Matthew Jukes said that Hattingley made a Charmat method wine. This was incorrect. We apologise for any confusion caused.

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PROPERTY

Large parcel of land for sale with vine potential HAWKHURST

| KENT

GUIDE PRICE: £975,000

94 ACRES

Land & Property Experts

Kent/Sussex Borders

L A S O

GUIDE PRICE OIEO £975,000

○

94 acres, of which approximately 80 acres is aspected south and east, and considered suitable for vineyard planting.

L A S R O

E challock@btfpartnership.co.uk

www.btfpartnership.co.uk F

BTF Partnership is offering for sale about 94 acres of land at Hawkhurst, close to the Kent/Sussex border with a large part of it now considered suitable for viticulture. Situated one mile to the south-east of the village, the ring-fenced land is divided into four field enclosures by well-established hedges and small woodland shaws. The land is generally south and south east facing and between 15-18 metres above sea level. The soil type is a combination of Wealden clay and Tunbridge Wells sand, classified Grade III and has produced cereal crops for several years, and wheat this year. Richard Thomas, Director at BTF Partnership comments: “The three eastern fields are considered suitable for establishing vines as they are well sheltered and south-east facing. This is one of the largest parcels of land suitable for vine planting to come for sale in this area for some time, and I think it will generate considerable interest from a variety of purchasers. The land has a guide price of £975,000.

For further information go to www.btfpartnership.co.uk

Hawkhurst, Kent

Guide Price on Application

Approximately 93.93 acres of mainly south-facing arable land including 9.93 acres of woodland & shaws

Ring fenced parcel comprising four main field enclosures divided by established hedges & small woods

T 01233 740077

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In conversation...

Ha n na h To v

London Wine Fair organiser Hannah Tovey had a shock a few months ago when Prowein organisers decided, without any prior consultation, to move their show to the dates which are normally occupied by the LWF. She tells Vineyard what she did, who she is and how she coped. The challenges of moving the LWF

“Changing something as pivotal as the date of London Wine Fair is no small matter. The number of exhibitors, staff, suppliers and partners who are integral to the success of LWF is up in the thousands. If you attempt to change dates, all of these important stakeholders need to be consulted in advance, kept up to date and in some cases re-contracted. Further to this, suitable tenancies at Central London exhibition venues are a rarity. Combine this with avoiding undesirable clashes: vintages, significant hospitality and retail periods, public holidays, other key events (take note: Prowein) and any major global events – and you find yourself hitting brick walls. “If that wasn’t challenge enough, for 2022 and beyond, every tiny gap in the Olympia calendar has been optimised to further the progression of their enormous £1 billion renovation. Thankfully,

the concerted effort of the Olympia team to support LWF and help create an opportunity that worked for us, but genuinely didn’t exist previously, paid off. Strong, healthy supplier relationships matter in all walks of business. “Communication matters so much, too. Then, once you commit to a change, you need to update all of your marketing assets, re-write your timeline and virtually start your entire campaign again, trying to ensure that every digital platform upon which you have published the former date is now corrected. Frankly it’s not something I want to do, at speed, somewhat under duress, ever again. Especially after two years of pandemic-enforced turbulence, including two LWF cancellations, which are no less stressful. “Happily, while a date change was not something we planned for, we are feeling extremely positive about the outcome and the future of LWF. The trade, especially in the UK, were outstanding in their support and the

flexibility of our existing exhibitors made the whole change workable. I’ve never received so many emails, messages and calls of support in my life. It was genuinely overwhelming. “We are also so excited about welcoming back Wine Australia and ProChile, plus a stand from Distell, to name but a few fabulous returns. Only two small exhibitors had to pull out, with regret, due to the date change, which is frustrating for them and us, but we’ll be ready to welcome them back in 2023. So, all’s well that ends well and we look forward to our new live+ digital format in June. “Kudos has to go to my completely new in-house sales and marketing team who coped amazingly well with this unprecedented experience; quite the baptism of fire in their probation periods. So the trade are no longer expected to be in two places at once and we can all focus on recovering from a bumpy ride in the last couple of years.”

Me and my background

“My family are wine fanatics; my dad has always talked about wine through most meals and a couple of family members worked for an importer. So I was used to the language of wine before I was old enough to drink it. I studied French at university and then went to Bordeaux for my year abroad. My first job after graduating was as an assistant to the sales team at Decanter and found I loved the commercial aspect of wine magazine publishing. I worked in sales on wine trade titles following this, which gave me a greater insight into how the industry operates and went on to launch Imbibe magazine, as well as the exhibition and website for on-trade wine buyers, running it for about eight years until having my children. As a freelancer I enjoyed consulting on The Wine Merchant and running consumer events all over the country for the Wine Gang, until I was approached for this role with LWF about four years ago.”

What makes you tick?

“I’m fascinated by people and language. I studied psychology to A-level, loved it and have kept up this interest in a low-brow, armchair capacity ever since. My French and German are pretty rusty these days, but I will always love the etymology of words and generally seeing languages as codes to be cracked. Weirdly, no, I haven’t started playing Wordle.”

What do you do when you aren’t panicking over the LWF “Most days you can find me on Hampstead Heath in the early hours, walking our insane Cocker Spaniel. That might well be the only reason I haven’t lost my marbles. Life is busy with two primary school aged children and both my husband and I working long hours. Downtime usually involves seeing friends and family, wine, food and music. I love to sing. Maybe the Welsh bit of me coming out? I just can’t stay seated if there is music on. I wanted to be a dancer for about a decade in my youth, but my talent didn’t match up to my enthusiasm. My husband likes to DJ though, so that works.”

Thoughts on English/Welsh wines “I absolutely love it and frequently choose it for special occasions at home, or when I’m out. Separately, myself and my team have worked hard to make sure LWF is a really strong opportunity for UK producers. At the last two live events, English and Welsh wines were in the Top 5 searches made

by visitors using the LWF database (hosted on Bottlebooks), so we know that the visitor demand is there for these wineries to do significant business at the LWF, but historically only a handful take part each year, despite the domestic market being so key for long term growth. We hope that many more will take the opportunity to exhibit in 2022.”

English and Welsh wines were in the Top 5 searches made by visitors 21

WINE REVIEWS

Mat h e w

It’s that time of year again

es Juk

If you are lucky, you will have timed your inventory management correctly. DESKTOP www.matthewjukes.com ENVELOPE vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk Around Easter time each year, my doorbell rings with renewed vigour and frequency as wine deliveries arrive thick and fast. Most are new 2021 vintage releases, and many of these are new English wines. It is late Spring; the flowers are in bloom, and it is an exciting time in the wine world as out go the old vintages, and in come the new. I love this time of year, but it comes with a few stresses and strains. Fast-moving wines hope to be swapping over to their new vintage right now. If not, then sales teams will be trying to force ‘old’ 2020 wines down their customers’ throats so they can take deliveries of the squeaky new wines. If you are lucky, you will have timed your inventory management correctly, and this changing over of vintages will be seamless. You may be in the fortunate position of having sold out. While this is everyone’s dream, you don’t want to spend too many months without stock for fear of losing your spot on wine lists or brochures. There is also the nagging thought that you might have been able to make a little more stock and increase your turnover instead of having to spend a few months without any extra takings. If you have a broad portfolio, then this is usually not a problem, but when I looked on the Folc website to check the price of the wine opposite, I was part cheered and partly concerned when I saw the magical words ‘sold out’. This month I have a scoop on 2021 Folc Rosé, which is being bottled in the first week of April. This wine will

arrive in indie wine merchants on or around the date that this issue is published, so fans do not have long to wait to taste this sublime wine. Camel Valley’s Bacchus is another wine you want to drink on the day it is released and then for the coming four or five months while the sun is shining. The arrival of this wine in one’s fridge ought to coincide with dusting down the garden furniture and setting up your parasol! There is another style of wine launch that the Champenois have made into an artform – the ‘new vintage release’. I remember my pal Victoria Moore (Telegraph wine scribe) telling me that she was fed up with having to trek into central London to taste a single bottle from a haughty Champagne House. I have to agree, and this is essentially why we Brits are not arrogant enough to think that the world stops turning when we open a new bottle of wine. But this month does coincide with the new release of Nyetimber’s Tillington – one of the most talked-about wines in our industry. Only a couple of bottles have crossed the £100 mark, and this one is genuinely worthy of this price tag. So, this month, it’s that time of year again. Out goes the old, and in comes the new, and these new wines are finer than any that have come before them. Each of the wines on this spread are brand spanking new, so some merchants are still listing the previous year’s release. But, I am told, that they have all taken deliveries of the new vintages, so please persist in your hunt to find these wines.

2021 Camel Valley, Bacchus Dry £16.95 www.camelvalley.com

£14.95

www.fortnumandmason.com

£15.50

www.thewinesociety.com

£15.85

www.drinkﬁnder.co.uk

I have followed this magnificent winery since it opened its doors back in 1989, and I have only ever tasted Camel Valley wines that make me smile. Camel Valley made the first genuinely great Bacchus I tasted, and four years ago, when this magazine launched its first issue, I featured 2016 Camel Valley Bacchus on this very page. The new 2021 release is sensational. A pinpoint accurate nettle and elderflower theme features a line of citrus electricity down its spine that sparks your taste buds into action and never lets go. This wine sums up the flavour of a beautiful, verdant, sunny English summer in just one glass.

2014 Nyetimber, Tillington Single Vineyard £100.00 www.bbr.com

£95.00

www.leaandsandeman.co.uk

2021 Folc Dry English Rosé Approx. £20.00 www.connaughtwinecellars.com www.hawkinsbros.co.uk www.allthingsdrinks.co.uk www.elizabethrosewines.co.uk www.drinkfolc.com

£100.03

www.laywheeler.com

Made predominantly from Pinot Noir, with a small percentage of Chardonnay from the same single vineyard, this is the fourth vintage of Tillington, and I have to say that I have loved each and every release. Like the finest Champagnes, it is impossible to tell from the colour, nose and palate that this wine is already eight years old. It is pale and shimmering, and I wrote ‘very’ three times in my notes before the word ‘good’. The luminosity and tension here are exquisite, and while the flavour is lean, all-pervasive and mesmerising, it is seemingly weightless. The control throughout is fabulous, and the finish is superbly long and prickly – it is set for a very long life ahead of it. I gave this beauty a 19/20 score in my notes, and this means it is one of the finest English Sparklers I have ever tasted.

Elisha Rai and Tom Cannon are justifiably proud of their brand Folc. I featured their debut 2020 vintage on my website last April, and by all accounts, it has impressed all-comers and can now call itself the highest-ranking English Rosé of last year. Not bad at all for a first tiptoe in the winemaking world. This new release, which I tasted from a tank sample, is every bit as enticing and more. The blend is mind-bendingly complex, using Pinots Noir and Meunier to make up 83% of the mix and Chardonnay a further 7%. But the remaining 10%, a seemingly small corner of the glass but a huge one in the manner in which it completes the picture, includes Pinot Gris, Bacchus, Rondo and Kerner. I have no doubt that this 10% makes this wine what it is – simply sublime. The art of blending is a mystical one and all too often wines are diminished by overcomplicating the recipe. 2021 Folc is a masterclass in layering discreet flavour and intrigue to an end point which achieves completeness and remarkable balance.

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WINE BUYING

Waitrose is a multi-award-winning retailer for its English & Welsh wine range, with an offer of more than 110 wines available nationwide via shops and cellar. Waitrose first stocked an English wine in 2001. Marien Rodríguez said: “We take our role in supporting English & Welsh wines very seriously. We are proud to say that we sell a sparkling wine made from the grapes from Waitrose’s own vineyards on the Leckford Estate farm in Hampshire. This brings us even closer to the production side and provides us with firsthand information on each vintage’s conditions in this region, which is extremely valuable. “We are committed to continuing to support this industry and strengthen our position as a market leader in this sector. All styles are represented in our range, we even count an “English Nouveau” that is released seasonally.”

Waitrose

Waitrose wines mission can be easily summarised in a statement: “To be the UK’s best drinks retailer, by offering the range, expertise, quality and service of an independent merchant, with the convenience, value and consistency of a multiple grocer”. As explained by our Head of Drinks Pierpaolo Petrassi, the Waitrose brand stands for high quality, high service retail experience, and we consider this a commercial advantage.

What is the profile of your customers?

“As communicated in the supplier conferences that we present every year, our growth has increased our reach, especially in the online space, but our customer demographic remains premium. We strive to support our customers by offering them great service in shops and online. We have an extensive team of WSET-trained specialists who advise and help consumers with their purchases. Moreover, we are now able to organise in-store tastings again which allows producers to directly interact with customers and this is a great sales and marketing tool to take advantage of.”

What are you looking for when considering new wines to list? “It is a requirement for any new supplier to meet the Waitrose technical and safety standards. This ensures that the product can be safely sold to our customers, and we fully support producers in completing this process successfully from a technical perspective. “Many factors are carefully assessed before considering the launch of new wines in our stores. We look at the quality, style, how the wine fits in with the overall range and product offer from the specific region of origin and the availability of space in our shops, among other considerations.”

uez

Marien Rodríguez, wine buyer for Waitrose, is responsible for buying English and Welsh wines along with Germany, Austria, Eastern Europe and Rest of the World. She gives her views to Vineyard.

íg

Meet the buyer

Ma rien Rod

Your background

“Wine has been an integral part of my life since a very young age. I spent part of my childhood in Rioja where I took part in viticulture and winemaking activities which sparked my interest in wine. It was not until later, however, that I decided to pursue a professional career in this industry. I pursued a Bachelor in International Business whilst working as a university teaching assistant. This was followed by a double Master in Supply Chain Management and Strategy & International Management completed in The Netherlands and Switzerland.”

How did you become a wine buyer?

“In 2018, I joined the Waitrose & Partners Supply Chain team and specialised in forecasting for ambient categories which was a highly valuable learning experience. Nine months later, I had the opportunity to start working as a wine buyer and I am now responsible for the wine portfolios of Germany, Austria, Eastern Europe & Rest of the World, England & Wales, and alternative Formats. Whilst working in this role, I completed the WSET Level 3 and the Diploma certificates.

What style, type, country’s wine, do you personally enjoy?

“I am lucky in that I truly enjoy any top-quality example of any given wine region of origin or style. I always try to remain open when buying wines as there are a lot of great examples to try. At the moment, I enjoy French, Spanish and Italian wines the most, perhaps, because culturally and from my personal experiences, I am closer to these regions, however, this might change in the future.

Which country, style of wine, are best sellers?

“English wines reported record sales in 2021 thanks to an effective promotion strategy and range optimisation. All styles within English wines have reported growth which is outstanding. The best sellers are sparkling (national and local listings) and white wines from major brands. However, those reporting the largest growth being local subcategories as previously explained,” stated Marien.

What do you expect a supplier/producer to supply to you in advance? “I would expect that before any proposals are sent, the producer studies our range to explain how they believe that their wine(s) would potentially add value and a point of difference to the current portfolio.”

Do you have a minimum drop for a listing? “There is no minimum requirement for the number of shops a wine is launched in. For our local and regional range, the number of shops varies greatly. Waitrose Cellar carries exclusive wines as a result of limited volume availability.”

What are English and Welsh producers doing well?

Broadly, what do you think of English/Welsh wines?

“One example that I would highlight from recent discussions is how producers are already adapting to climate change. Some are reviewing their planting material to be able to produce both sparkling and still wines by planting one type of clone, as it is intended that with rising temperatures, more still wine will be released. Others are predicting an increase in production of vintage wines, should conditions allow it in the coming years. What I find important is that most producers seem to understand how climate change is a risk and not just an opportunity to increase the quality of wines. I believe that this shows how committed this industry is to working on and achieving sustainable wine production practices and their awareness of the impact of their activities within the ecosystems and the wider environment. I find this topic very interesting, and I believe that it will gain more attention in England and Wales as the effects recorded and their impact become more significant.”

“We are lucky to be able to enjoy high quality wines in both sparkling and still styles. What impresses me about this industry is how stakeholders are committed to ensuring the long-term viability of production by focusing on sustainability. Moreover, I believe that English wines have great success potential in some export markets, and I hope to see more of these wines abroad. I am very excited for the years to come and I hope to see a wider and diverse range of top quality wines from different producers and subregions on our shelves and in the market.”

What trends do you discern in wine sales and is there anything that English and Welsh viticulturists and vinifers should be addressing, going forward?

“There is a significant customer demand for local wines and all styles reported outstanding growth in 2021 versus previous years. The largest growth was reported by sparkling local wines driven by the increasing quality and customer focus on local produce, which were accentuated during the pandemic, as customers spent more on wine with the on-trade closed. “One of the current trends is English and Welsh still wines, partly because producers are releasing greater volumes of these wines made from international varietals which customers can recognise. Moreover, these are more affordable for those looking to spend less on a bottle of wine versus the sparkling styles. More specifically, red and rosé wines continue to be extremely popular among our customer base and both reported a +70% year on year sales volume growth in 2021. I am currently looking to increase the range of high-quality red wines from international varietals to offer customers good value for money wines that they can enjoy at reasonable prices.”

Is there anything you would like to say to English and Welsh winemakers and producers? “I would like to encourage producers to contact us if they believe they have interesting proposals that would fit in our range (either because the wine style is under represented or because the wine is a top-quality example).

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FROM WINE TO SPIRITS

A spirited approach Many wine producers are looking to making spirits particularly with the current fascination for gin, Ted Bruning an experienced observer of the drinks sector, puts the case.

In some respects, a vineyard is not unlike a smallholding. In particular, they tend to be somewhat cramped; to get by they have to squeeze as much as possible out of what acreage they have. But the nature of their operations means they have to tackle the job in different ways. For smallholders, it’s diversification: the goats pay the bills with their milk, meat, wool and hides; the little extras come from marginal crops such as poultry, top fruit, hedge fruit, garden produce, logs, kindling, and wild forage. Vineyard owners have few such opportunities because vines, to be blunt, are a monoculture. Maximisation can only come from intensification. Nevertheless, skilled viticulturalists can play limitless chords and arpeggios across the keyboard, even more so since it was discovered that many parts of England proved ideal for sparklers. The méthode champenoise is the ideal elaboration of English wine, producing undeniably world-class wines as a bolt-on to existing businesses and thereby adding a hefty premium. But we’ve done that now: what next? The answer ought to be to invest in a hand-beaten Portuguese copper pot-still, or a space-age German column-still, and press start. Let marc, eau-de-vie, brandy, palinka and hand sanitiser trickle into your spirit receiver and watch the money gush out. Sweet, eh? But the industry has shied away from distilling, and few English wineries can boast a copper to polish. When brandy is a natural extension of winemaking and can command such a good price, why are winemakers so afraid of distilling? It’s probably not the capital commitment. You can buy a 200l pot-still that will sit in a corner and take up no more than 6’ x 6’ for under £2,000, but there’ll be carriage and all sorts of extras, including a condenser and steam coil, that will push the price up to more than twice the cost of the still; then there are barrels at anything up to £250 for a 54-gallon hogshead. So even doing it on the cheap isn’t that cheap and does involve you in lots of preparatory work; tiling and pipework as well as assembling the whole shebang yourself. The alternative is buying a still via a consultant who will have it shipped and installed for you, albeit at a price. You could spend a fortune, and many people do. But the point is that you don’t

M AY 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D

have to. The specialised nature, the availability, and the sheer quantity of the equipment you will need make a distillery start-up, even a modest one, more expensive than a brewery start-up but still much less expensive (and hopefully far more profitable) than buying a pub. So assuming your ambitions don’t extend to challenging Courvoisier, just how much capital should you reasonably expect to have to find? Or, since the sky is really the limit, a more sensible question might be: how little can you get away with? One consultant puts the bare minimum outlay at £100,000, but you can get away with far less because you already produce the wash and possess the bottling and labelling line. Still, it’s not so much the investment that’s the drawback: your business plan should tell you what sort of return to expect. No, it’s the compliance. HMRC, it is said by those who know, has rather relaxed its “ils ne passeront pas” attitude to start-ups in the 35 years since King Offa and Somerset Royal kicked off the whole craft distilling craze. It helps that you’re already familiar with the ways of HMRC. The forms you’ll have to fill in to complete your transition from winemaker to distiller are lengthy but, if you already understand the jargon, fairly straightforward. They are mainly concerned with security both of the product and of, the main thing, the duty and you will be required to raise a bond from a reputable lender. Even so, compliance is not a huge obstacle to the sprouting of boutique distilleries at wineries nationwide. The grapes, though, are. Take a trip to Cognac and you will see horizonto-horizon rows of the Ugni Blanc vines that account for 90% of the plantings in the region. Their wine is very acid and as low in alcohol as cheap Liebfraumilch – say 7-9% abv. Ugni Blanc or Trebbiano Toscano doesn’t perform that badly everywhere: if it did it wouldn’t be so widely planted. But in the ungenerous soil of Cognac it does and that’s what the distillers want. English winemakers don’t plant that kind of grape, nor do we grow enough to leave much surplus for distilling. In a bad year you can always rescue some revenue by distilling fruit that otherwise wouldn’t be worth vinifying. The spirit might not be brilliant – not good enough to sit for years in oak before being racked into Waterford crystal – but will make a perfectly adequate eau-de-vie for fruit liqueur, or could even fortify a sugary wine. Conversely a large part of a good harvest might be despatched to the still to make a first-class (and very expensive) snifter and to protect your prices by restricting the supply of your table wine. Whether this justifies the faff of diversifying into distilling is another question: the dearth of brandy distilleries up and down the country suggests not. Not that English winemakers haven’t been tempted, but they have seen it as an occasional

> Ted Bruning speciality rather than a regular offering. In the early days of craft distilling many a batch was sent off to be transubstantiated, but it was always an irregular affair. One such batch has just been bottled; in the mid-1990s, just before he retired, Kenneth McAlpine of Lamberhurst Vineyard tankered several thousand litres off to Julian Temperley’s Somerset Royal Cider Brandy distillery to be given the treatment. It has only now been bottled at 23 years old – but then, £125 a pop probably makes the wait worthwhile. “Pricing”, said Bob Neilson of Brightwell Vineyard in lushest Oxfordshire, “is the key”. Brightwell has a limited quantity of Rush English brandy (named after a local historic landmark) privately distilled. Bob is very conscious that it is all cannibalised from his mainstream production, and it has to command a premium to be worthwhile and it should. The distilling process will concentrate the wine by a factor of 10, so every case of wine you could have sold for £60 wholesale will make you a bottle-and-a-bit of cask-strength brandy or three-ish bottles at 40%abv that you might sell for £90 wholesale. <<

27 M AY 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D

FROM WINE TO SPIRITS << That’s without taking the distiller’s fee, maturation, packaging and duty into account. Bob’s answer is the same as that given by every single artisanal food and drink maker in the world: quality. He stated: “To command the premium you have to take pains. The distilling is the easy part. Making the right cuts, controlling the temperatures, that’s the distiller’s skill. But the winemaker has to bring the best stuff for the distiller to work with because it’s a case of ‘garbage in, garbage out’. So no crap, please!” Careful retailing helps maintain the margin: the brandy is on sale via Brightwell’s own shop and website, and the rest of its sale is in the local winemerchants, grocers and farm shops that already stock Brightwell’s wines, and where familiarity has bred satisfaction. But the coppersmiths won’t be calling any time soon. “We’ve thought about it,” says Bob. “But it’s too much money.” Mike Hardingham of Ludlow Vineyard in Shropshire jumped the other way in 2009 when he installed his German-made 200 litre still. He

had been making both cider and wine since 2003, and as a Calvados lover he had always had distilling in the back of his mind. The decision to go ahead was triggered by a sample of brandy from Moor Lynch Vineyard in Dorset made by Julian Temperley. Mike realised that a distillery could earn its crust by working for as many masters as possible. “Since then I’ve made far more for other people than I have for myself,” he said. “It sells very well and commands a good premium. Whether it’s a bad year and the fruit is short on sugar or a glut when you make more wine than you can sell, distillation can help make sure you don’t lose out.” More and more distillers are taking his advice and looking for contract work. Yorkshire Heart, for instance, has its brandy made at Hooting Owl near York, and the legendary John Waters of English Spirit has moved out of his original home in Cambridgeshire to open not one but two facilities in Cornwall and

Essex. Laurence Conisbee of Wharf Distillery in Northamptonshire started out as a cidermaker using apples scrumped (with permission) from the public parks of Milton Keynes. Now a distiller of cider brandy, grape brandy, whisky and just about anything else, Laurence will happily fill his still with whatever you bring him – even beer. He is also one of the first British distillers – if not the first – to dip his toe, metaphorically, into fortified wine and is perfecting a vermouth. “There is so much opportunity that we’re buying a bigger still,” he said. “We’re targeting vineyards and especially breweries. Our next project will be a hopped beer – not too hoppy, though – with about a kilo of junipers dumped in it, then triple distilled for smoothness. We’re also making a marc which will be infused with herbs from local farms. “Contract distilling is about 85% of our business now, but a distillery is a great bolt-on to a visitor centre and shop. It need not be all that expensive, so… why not?”

> Brightwell Vineyard

For a copy of the book, Craft Distillers' Handbook: www.ebay.co.uk/usr/navguides

> Carol Nielsen at work – Brightwell

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EDITOR'S VISIT

Henners may be quintessentially English but the name comes from a French nobleman and it is owned by a company with strong French and South African connections. Christian Davis visits Herstmonceux in East Sussex

Henners describes itself as ‘quintessentially English’ yet it takes its name from Henners du Bois, a French nobleman who fled Paris during the French Revolution in the late 18th Century. Also, due to Manchesterbased Boutinot Wines buying Henners in 2017 (see panel), it is part of a wider group of winemaking, including South Africa and France; with that, come winemakers with years of experience with whom it can collaborate, share knowledge, and ensure that the wines are international quality. Henners is nestled next to the Pevensey Levels Nature Reserve and fewer than 4 miles from the sea in East Sussex, the vineyard was established in the pretty village of Herstmonceux, best known for its 15th Century castle and observatory, in 2007 by one Larry Warr, who claimed to be a direct descendant of du Bois. Planted with the three classic sparkling grape varieties, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, the vineyard claims to be in one of the driest, sunniest pockets of England. The vineyard has a significant coastal

vis Editor Da

Quintessentially English

influence, low elevation (24m above sea level) and free-draining clay soils making the site suitable for the production of both sparkling and still wines. Sea breezes are said to be key, minimising frost risk, reducing disease pressure and bringing a ‘crisp salinity’ to Henners’ wines. In the winery, the team takes a non interventionist approach, made possible by the quality of the fruit. Henners has multiple clones and varieties planted to give it a broad palate of wines for final blending and play with reserve wines and oak barrels to contribute character, depth, richness and layers to the wines. The wines are fermented and bottled on-site with its small, dedicated team responsible for every aspect of production. The Henners team plant Chardonnay to create the backbone and skeleton of the wines. Chardonnay is said to give the wines flavours of ripe lemon and the classic Henners freshness and zing. Chardonnay is often a grape variety that they associate with the long finish of its Photos: ©Martin Apps, Countrywide Photographic

VINEYARD FACT SHEET

Boutinot Boutinot’s has been in the southern Rhône

Vineyard: 3 hectares/7 acres

for 30 years. In 2010 it purchased a winery and vineyards above the village of Cairanne.

Yield: 8-10 tonnes of ripe fruit per hectare

Domaine Boutinot’s seven vineyards are planted with classic southern Rhône varieties: old vine Grenache Noir and Syrah, Mourvèdre and the more traditional Carignan Noir.

Soils: The Pevensey Levels were once the beach. So, free draining clay with some sand

It has two bases in France: Domaine Boutinot in Cairanne with vineyards and a winemaking facility. Boutinot France further north in Mâcon

Aspect: Breezy site, 5km from the sea. 24m above sea level. So, maritime influence..

is home to a production office and they oversee the production and bottling of a large part of its Made By Boutinot’ wines. It also has a facility in Franschhoek, South Africa where its Wildeberg (‘wild mountain’) is produced.

> Henners’ head winemaker: Collette O'Leary

Grape varieties: 95% sparkling ◆ Chardonnay ◆ Pinot Noir ◆ Pinot Meunier

Diseases experienced: Not too disease prone but yes, all the usual: downey, powdery mildew, Botrytis – a lot last year. Treatments: Spraying but, as a member of the Sustainable Wines of Great Britain, the aim is to reduce spraying wherever possible. Weeds have been dealt with mechanically.

Trellising: Wooden poles. Double guyot. Canopy management: Yes.

wines, and the continuing development of flavour and texture even after the wine has been savoured. Pinot Noir offers structure and body to the wines. As for Meunier, the team say this is them having most fun with these fruity grapes. Apparently, they are so delicious that, by the Autumn, you can eat them as table grapes. Meunier gives Henners’ wines their freshness, youthfulness, fruitiness, and approachability. The Brut NV is the signature expression of Henners sparkling wine style. They balance the cuvee at around 40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, and 25% Meunier each year, blending the wines across vintages and grape varieties to achieve the Henners house style year-on-year. Collette O’Leary, Henners’ head winemaker, worked for PR agencies in London but after several years, Collette had a career change in 2010 and embarked on winemaking,

graduating from Plumpton College in 2014. Her winemaking experiences took her from California to South Africa, before joining the Henners team in early 2019. Collette oversees the day to day running of the Estate and all aspects of wine production at Henners. She said: “The London Olympics made the Boutinot directors Michael Moriarty and Dennis Whiteley think about English wine. From 2021 Boutinot started to distribute Henners. Larry Warr, a direct descendent of Henners du Bois, who had planted the vineyard in 2007, was also involved with an engineering company. Operating both was not viable, so he sold the vineyard. She goes on: “We are not prone to frost; it is warmer due to the sea. The English climate is so ‘variable’. We want to broaden our programme so we can work with the variability of the English climate. The Downey mildew <<

Green harvest: Around the end of August Henners expects Veraison. White grapes will blush a golden yellow or green colour, and the black grapes will change more noticeably, into an array of blue, purple, and deep red. Harvesting: From Veraison, there is about six weeks until harvest, mostly by hand.

Timings: Budburst: Spring. End of August: Veraison. Harvest: end of September/early October. As it is a warm site, it is routinely three weeks ahead of what is laughingly called ‘normal’.

What’s next? Next phase is to bring storage and disgorgement in house (currently with Defined Wines). The vineyard and winery opened to the public at the end of April.

EDITOR'S IN THE VISIT WINERY FACT SHEET Capacity: 300,000 bottles , currently producing 180,000 “-ish” Equipment: ◆ Stainless steel, temperature-controlled Letina tanks supplied by Core Equipment. Largest: 10,000 litres also ‘stackable’ Letina tanks. ◆ Stainless steel barriques and traditional oak barrels, supplied from Boutinot France. ◆ Also, Speidel and Delafont

Presses: Willmes 'Merlin Plus+ 5100', supplied by Vigo

Storage/Disgorgement: Dealt with by Defined Wines

What’s next? Bringing storage and disgorgement in house.

<< was the worst it could possibly be last year – a difficult year. We have a uniquely humid climate. Cold and it can be so wet.” On expanding production, Collette specifies: “We are hoping to nearly double production from 180,000 to 300,000 bottles. So, we are looking to new sites but Henners is the

backbone of what we do. We are looking for two things: More growers long term and land for future planting. “We have between five and 10 growers from traditional counties: Sussex and Kent, working with Essex and possibly Norfolk and Suffolk. We have not got anything from Hampshire but ‘never say never’. “Still wines will get greater focus going forward,” she states. “We use smaller barrels and tanks for reserve wines and keep some on their lees in bottle.” As to timetable, going forward Collette said (back in March): “Pruning and pulling out, trellis repairs and tying down.” Looking at packs of flat packed tables and chairs for the visitors when the vineyard opens, Collette said emphatically: “the tables and chairs can wait!” Hopefully, they have broken out their IKEA tools to erect the furniture.

The rest of the team

Will Robinson: Vineyard Manager Will grew up in Suffolk and studied Horticulture before working at a vineyard in his home county and falling in love with viticulture. Following his passion for winemaking, he started at Plumpton College in 2017, studying the BSc viticulture and oenology before graduating in summer 2020. Will has worked harvests in England and at Flowers Winery in California and joined the Henners team ahead of the 2020 harvest. Sam Williams: Assistant Winemaker Sam joined Henners after coming top of her class at Plumpton in the Viticulture and Oenology BSc. She has a wealth of experience in wine, with vintages abroad as well as at home. Sam is a keen traveler, with nine years abroad and 4 continents under her belt. When she's in the UK, if she's not in the winery, she'll be playing hockey or cricket. <<

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EDITOR'S VISIT << Rebecca Apley: Cellar Door manager Rebecca has come on board to open a brand new Cellar Door. Before moving down to Sussex, she was a hospitality consultant and wine educator in Yorkshire. With experience opening new venues, running events, and giving tastings, she plans to bring some real sparkle to the tours and tastings here. Rebecca, said: “My role has been growing alongside the new building. When I came to Henners looking at opening a cellar door, there wasn’t even the barn. By the time I was up at Boutinot, learning the ropes, we had our fabulous and shiny new tanks arriving, the largest of which is 10,000 litres. “I’ve seen Henners grow and expand. The furniture is coming out of its boxes, and the finishings are getting their final polish. Watching our little cellar door become a reality has been an amazing part of 2021. “Our cellar door isn’t just about allowing people a sneak peak into our previously pretty private winery and vineyard grounds. It’s also about local community, sustainability, and building up eco-tourism in Sussex and beyond. As founder members of Sustainable Wines of Great Britain, we are proud that our winery and vineyard are both audited and certified sustainable, and our cellar door follows the same ethos, with electric charging in the car park and a water butt to reduce our water footprint.” Tom Whiteley: Commercial Product Manager Based in the north west, Tom splits his time between Manchester and Herstmonceux. Having worked in the drinks industry during his early career, Tom moved on to spend five years working for Kellogg’s in the commercial strategy team, before swapping Cornflakes for cuvées.

Sustainable Wines of Great Britain

Henners is a founder member of Sustainable Wines of Great Britain. Collette said: “The environment sits at the heart of what we do at Henners. We’re doing everything we can to promote sustainability and regeneration in our vineyard and in our winery. We’re working towards saving as much water as possible, ensuring any electricity we use comes from renewable sources, and pushing past the bare minimum to the best practice when it comes to soil health, winemaking practices, and even lighter bottles and packaging to reduce our carbon footprint.”

Custodians of the land

The Henners team consider themselves ‘custodians of the land’. The vineyard overlooks the Pevensey Levels nature reserve and the South Downs National Park, the area where the sea used to be. It is said to have a complex relationship in these marshy lands between what is water and what is land, and it has led to a special ecosystem, unusual habitats, and areas of great scientific interest. Surrounded by the Weald and its clay, the coast with the pink pebbles of Pevensey Bay, the rolling green hills and oak trees, all compliment the wine.

Bewick – better by design

Apparently some of Henners designs are inspired by Thomas Bewick. Born in 1753, Bewick was an artist/designer, historian and author who captured tiny wood cuttings of English countryside life. His designs inspired Henners’ Native Grace range, named for a line in his eulogy, written by Charlotte Bronte after he died in 1828.

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AGRONOMY DIARY

Rob S

ders un

Controlling weeds offers frost and yield benefits

The next month is a crucial period for frost risk in vines as fresh, young growth is highly susceptible to freezing overnight temperatures. There are a host of options for reducing the impact of late frosts, and this includes the management of ground beneath vines. Research has shown a clear reduction in temperature when long vegetation is left underneath vines, which may be due to cold air becoming trapped, and there being less radiative heat than on bare soil. Indeed, uncultivated bare ground has also been shown to be better at re-radiating the day’s heat than a cultivated surface. While there are a host of non-chemical weed control options available (see below), targeted herbicide application remains the most straightforward tool for managing undervine weeds at this time of year. Options are pretty limited though, especially given restrictions on application timings. The Roundup Powermax formulation of glyphosate (containing 720 g/kg of active ingredient) is the principal contact herbicide fully approved for use in table and wine grapes. On particularly weedy sites, especially those with harder to control species such as thistles, docks and nettles, consider cutting back large weeds before applying glyphosate to ensure product is taken up by fresh growth. Adding wetters and using appropriate water volumes will improve efficacy, and for best results, treat weeds before they become too large. Creeping thistle for example, becomes much harder to control with herbicides once it grows beyond rosette stage. Some weeds, like nettle, will be better controlled if Roundup is mixed with the desiccant Shark (carfentrazone-ethyl), although remember to observe the golden ratio of these active ingredients to achieve maximum uptake by the

weeds. Also be aware that Shark carries a 90-day harvest interval. Products based on pelargonic acid or fluazifopP-butyl offer other options, but the former has restrictions on when it can be applied and the latter only controls a limited range of grass weeds. The propyzamide-based herbicide Kerb can only be applied between October and the end of January, so we are now well beyond the final use date.

Non-chemical options

While herbicides offer the simplest control of weeds underneath vines, it is useful to consider what alternatives might work for individual sites, soil types and weed spectrums. There are inevitable questions to be asked over the speed of non-chemical operations, their cost and sustainability though, especially given the ever-present pressure to reduce carbon emissions. Below are some options to consider: ◆ Biodegradable membranes: Useful when establishing new vineyards, although some pernicious weeds may still require manual weeding ◆ PAS-100 certified compost or woodchips: Can suppress weeds, although the availability and cost of transporting and applying material can be an issue. The nutrient content of compost may benefit young vines, but NVZ regulations can limit application timing and quantity, depending on nutrient content. For woodchips, beware nitrogen can get tied up by soil biology breaking down woody material, leaving less available to vines. Generally it is better to apply thinner layers of wood chip more frequently. Woodchip can also spread Armillaria mellea (Boot-lace fungus) ◆ Mechanical cultivation: Can be very effective at taking out roots of dicotyledonous

weeds, but is better suited to established vineyards (4 years+) due to the risk of damaging vines. Best done regularly in dry conditions as wet cultivations smear soil and regrowth is more likely. Disturbing the soil surface also increases erosion risk and may affect soil biology ◆ Flame weeders: Can be slow and require specialist technology that may be heavy and prone to technical issues. There are also question marks over the sustainability of fuels used ◆ Water weeders: Different systems are available using either high pressure water jets or steam. Operational speed, effectiveness and disturbance of soil surface are potential issues ◆ Electric weeders: An idea first tried in the 1950s, can be effective on fleshy weeds with tap roots (e.g. thistle or dock), but less so on grasses. Safe around vines due to the woody stems, although systems require large amounts of power, especially if attempting to treat a wide swathe. Given its effectiveness in treating creeping thistle, it is frustrating that no electric kit is commercially available.

Boost frost protection

Frost protection can be further enhanced with the use of glycine-betaine based products, such as Lalstim Osmo. The natural extract is an osmoprotectant that increases the strength of plant tissue and boosts the circulation of sap flow, water and nutrients, thereby improving tolerance to freezing. It should ideally be applied 24-48 hours before frost is due, offering some extra protection against light frost (down to -2°C). Beyond this, only heated fruiting wires, solid set irrigation or frost candles can protect vines against more severe temperature drops.

DESKTOP www.hlhltd.co.uk ENVELOPE information@hlhltd.co.uk phone-alt 01945 461177 M AY 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D

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Effective weed management in the undervine area is key to maximising crop productivity, and can also help reduce frost risk in emerging buds, as Hutchinsons agronomists Rob Saunders and Chris Cooper explain.

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AGRONOMY

Data driven vine management Precision soil analysis and satellite imagery are shortening the time needed to assess a site while improving management for the long-term. At roughly £30,000 per hectare, planting a vineyard is not for the faint hearted but proper preparation and clever use of data can at least ensure it is money spent wisely. Data of the sort provided by precision farming service RHIZA has been used by farmers for the efficient production of crops such as wheat and potatoes for many years. The value it provides is increasingly being utilised by vine growers because it brings management into the modern age. Data generation and analysis of the sort used in viticulture falls into two categories, explains Ben Foster, RHIZA account manager. “There are those that inform the direction of thinking beginning with site assessment through to planting and those that enable the efficient use of inputs for the maintenance of healthy and productive vines,” added Mr Foster. Initial assessments such as electro conductivity testing allow for subsequent soil testing and provide a detailed assessment of the variation within a parcel of land. Once a site is identified and entered on to the RHIZA platform, historical weather data specific to that location dating back to 2017 is immediately available. This information is considered alongside altitude, aspect and wind exposure to determine frost risk.

> Different colours are used to highlight contrasts in soil texture and nutrient status at varying depths based on the requirements of the user

“Frost is the single biggest threat to vines. Having accurate data going back several years is invaluable when assessing site potential,” Mr Foster said. Having completed the initial scoping exercise, more detailed assessments are undertaken. “Fields are then ‘zoned’ into blocks on average of half-hectare management zones based on the soil scanning results. These areas are subjected to intensive soil sampling to establish the levels of phosphate, potash, magnesium and pH of the

> Electro conductivity testing enables the soil to be zoned, based on soil texture and nutrient status

soil. A laser texture analysis provides a definitive assessment of the sand, silt, and clay ratios for the soil in a given zone. “Other measurements, such as soil organic matter and calcium status are also of value as this influences moisture holding capacity and nutrient availability,” he added. “If you want a vineyard to last 20 years, you need to understand the soil you’re working with. It determines the rootstock to be used and influences variety of grape. Making good on bad

decisions later is highly costly, so time and effort invested at the early stages is highly worthwhile,” Mr Foster said. For Ben Brown, viticulture specialist with crop advisers and trials specialists, Agrii, a sound understanding of the soil properties of any given site is the basis for informed management. “The biggest influence on any crop is always climate and soil. We use the information from RHIZA to identify the vines best suited to the terroir. Traditionally, sparkling wines have thrived on the chalk soils of the Champagne region where the soils support a balanced aromatic profile enjoyed by consumers. Conversely, water-limited soils tend to produce grapes with more desirable phenolic characteristics and higher quality tannins which is why red wines do better on soils where moisture can be in deficit,” Mr Brown said.

> Soil pit digs provide a visual indication of the underlying soil type and its structure

> Soil sampling at rooting depth enables accurate nutrient analysis

Data driven management

Having assessed the site based on its topography, altitude, aspect and wind exposure, all of which are derived from RHIZA, the planting direction and row spacing is considered. But there is a dichotomy to consider, warns Ben Brown. “The advantage of higher sites is reduced frost risk, but the grapes will also ripen more slowly as temperatures are generally lower, and growth and development are slower than at lower altitudes. Up to 125 metres above sea level is generally safe, but the risk at lower altitudes, especially on sheltered sites such as valleys, is the increased chance of frost. Everything feasible should be done to avoid planting vines on sites with high frost risk,” he said. An important feature of any site is drainage. Mr Brown believes this is too often over-looked. On poorly draining sites, there is a risk that roots will spend much of the winter in water-logged soils which will cause them to die. This can lead to problems in future years and result in reduced nutrient uptake. Cover crops that occupy the space between rows is another consideration. Where these are chosen with care, they can bring positive benefits. “Vines take up only a fraction of the surface area so thought should be given to what to sow in the area between rows. It needs to be slow growing so as not to create much work for the manager or owner, hardy so machinery can travel over it, not hungry for nutrients or thirsty for moisture and not fiercely competitive,” said Mr Brown. “We also want to show preference for those that improve soil structure and promote soil fertility. This is a demanding set of characteristics and often contrary to what most plants are bred to exhibit, but there are a few species well-suited to the role,” he added. Some mustard species, such as bronze mustards, work well between rows. “These

> Accumulated degree days can be used to forecast flowering and harvest preserve soil moisture and raise the pH. This means they are well-suited to chalky soils, but less suitable to acidic soils,” he said. Crop protection and growth promoting products are another aspect of management where good site data can support product selection and application best practice. Several forms of biostimulants such as the elicitor, ProAct have been shown to improve disease tolerance and reduce severity through greater calcium absorption. Other biological products, such as OvinAlp support soil microbe activity and improve nitrogen use efficiency. “Like all plants, there are disease and pest threats that will need managing, but where possible we seek to use biological forms of crop protection. Making the most of what these products have to contribute often means applying them proactively, rather than reactively,” said Mr Brown. “To support timing, we rely on accurate forecast and modelling systems. These are often reliant on data such as the weather and other atmospheric conditions which is another example of where RHIZA helps growers to optimise the timing of crop inputs,” he added.

Satellite imagery

NDVI images display the level of vegetation across a crop viewed from above. These images are used across all crop production systems to identify areas in need of management such as tailored nutrition or the use of crop protection

products, such as herbicides for the control of weeds. In vines, NDVI imagery can be used to assess vigour within the vineyard and guide pruning. These initial assessments can be verified by visual inspection in a process known as ‘ground-truthing’. From here you can decide which pruning method would best suit the vines for a given area and where it may be better to put more buds down the following season, to manage vigour. “There will be relationships between what is above ground with what is below. By overlaying NDVI imagery with the soil maps, we can establish why some areas are stronger or weaker than others. Where its weaker, we may put less buds down or prune it differently but having the data to draw on is essential to making informed decisions. Another example would be using the number of degree days year-on-year to forecast flowering and harvest dates,” said Mr Brown. At its most basic level, using data in this way is about aiding management decisions, but also about achieving a balance between yield and quality. The UK climate does not favour big yields of the sort seen in more warmer regions of the world, but it does favour quality. Striking a balance between yield and quality optimises the financial return to the grower. “In practice, this can come down to something as simple as having the right leaf area to support ripening for the local climate. Good data means we can achieve it more accurately and with greater confidence,” said Mr Brown.

DESKTOP www.agrii.co.uk ENVELOPE info@agrii.co.uk phone-alt 0845 607 3322 DESKTOP www.rhizadigital.co.uk ENVELOPE info@rhizadigital.co.uk M AY 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D

EDUCATION

Students participate in National Pruning Competition > Team event: Huw Rhys-Davies, Max Conroy-Hunt, and Ben Ralph

> Solo event: Ben Ralph A few of our wine students participated in the recent WineGB National Pruning Competition held at Yotes Court Vineyard, Kent. Ben Ralph, Max Conroy-Hunt and Huw Rhys-Davies joined the team event, while Ben also took part in the solo event; to demonstrate their pruning skills and battle it out to win the title of Vine Pruner of the Year! Our students, Ben, Max and Huw discuss why they decided to study wine at Plumpton College.

Ben Ralph (BSc Viticulture and Oenology, fi rst year)

I come from a background of top fruit growing and now work for Davenport Vineyards alongside my studies at Plumpton. I started studying viticulture to manage my own vineyard and be part of this exciting, growing industry. The pruning competition was a welcome opportunity to get together, share our skills, and meet other industry members.

Max Conroy-Hunt (BSc Viticulture and Oenology, first year) I am very new to the world of viticulture and oenology as my previous degree was in network computing. As for the why – the goal will always be to reinforce my existing experience and knowledge. It has proven to be an excellent theoretical and hands-on learning opportunity and provides ample support and workplace opportunities.

Huw Rhys-Davies (BSc Viticulture and Oenology, first year)

I’ve been involved with the drinks retailing industry for 15 years in different managerial roles. I have also set up events involving consumer tasting and trade for Decanter, Guinness, IWSC and Taste of London. I got involved with the course to combine my passion for the final product and pursue my curiosity about viticulture.

DESKTOP www.plumpton.ac.uk ENVELOPE wine@plumpton.ac.uk INSTAGRAM @plumptonwine M AY 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D

THE VINE POST

In review

Ti m Fe

r ri

Your (pruning) will be carried out to the following specification. It is well-documented that all vineyard tasks must be carried out in a timely manner to ensure the best potential for the vines. When planning, (and reviewing) your vineyard calendar, it is important to include as much detail as possible. Careful thought about how you want to approach each task and what you wish to achieve in the long-term is paramount to not only creating that success, but explaining your vision to those carrying out the work. Confirmation in advance of what is required to complete each job is key to delivering quality work. Regular communication is another. Discussing your specifications with your labour team enables each member to feel fully involved in the outcome, increases their pride in their work and gives you peace of mind that your vineyard will be treated exactly as you would treat it yourself to the same level of detail. With all vineyard tasks there are multiple variations of what can be done to coax optimum results from your vines. Reflecting on the current pruning season, a clear pruning specification may look like this: ◆ Double Guyot ◆ Eight buds per cane ◆ Two replacement spurs where possible, between 10cm-25cm below the fruiting wire ◆ Prunings left in a neat pile in every other row ◆ Completion in approximately 10 days ◆ Ideal start date. A range of factors come into play to achieve a specification like this: the number of vines, the number of people required to complete the task in the timeframe, the availability of labourers at the time requested, the weather…etc. Communication between the client, the labour provider and the labour teams is vital in guaranteeing success. At Vine-Works, we are fortunate to have skilled staff who can pass on instructions clearly in our labourers’ own language. In an industry largely reliant on Eastern European labour, it is well worth the investment of time and resources to make sure every team in the field is provided with this level of support. The world of business strategy may seem at odds with the idyllic view of lovingly tending to rows of pristine vines in the summer sunshine, but to make your vineyard thrive as a business,

it helps to draw on some of those tried and tested strategies, such as following the SMART technique when developing your specifications. Making sure every task is Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Realistic and Timely enables you to clearly communicate your needs and expectations. Someone who exemplifies this proactive approach is Tony Purdie of Yotes Court Vineyard. Tony’s instructions incorporate an element of SMART values for every job and the proof is in the results he achieves – 10 t/ha yield on average! We are very proud to work with excellent vineyard managers like Tony. “Having relied on a small skilled team of winter pruners supplied by Vine-Works, I can rest assured they have successfully pruned our vines, setting them up well for the fast approaching growing season. Having used VineWorks for all our labour needs since conception of the vineyard six years ago, I have nothing but admiration for the hard-working and determined Romanian crews and all the friendly experienced staff at Vine-Works. The team as a whole work professionally to provide the service growers require to produce high quality fruit and wines that the industry can be proud of,” said Tony Purdie, Yotes Court Vineyard.

Vine-Works At the time of writing, Vine-Works has pruned and tied down nearly 1.5 million vines – 20% more than in 2021. It is testament to the industry that it is continuing to grow and mature. Over the next few months, the focus will be on clear specifications for bud-rubbing, crown clearing, wire-lifting…

> Tony Purdie

DESKTOP www.vine-works.com ENVELOPE sales@vine-works.com phone-alt 01273 891777

A VITICULTURIST 'S DIARY

It’s a hard graft In the second of his series of a ‘A Day in the life of a Viticulturist' series, Sam Doncaster at Rebschule Freytag, in the Pfalz region discusses graﬅing and handling. Cane lengths of budwood get cut to short, pre-grafting, lengths The quantity is calculated, and they are bagged in onion bags, briefly soaked in water and then get dipped in fungicide, bagged in an outer robust plastic bag, and stacked in pallet size boxes up to the ceiling in one of the cool houses. They are all labelled on the inside, the outside, and the pallet box, additionally records are kept. This is all a similar process for the rootstock. The planning for a grafting season is difficult in itself, and that is without late orders coming in. This being the simple 'phase 1' of the nursery season.

There are many reasons why the grafting process can fail First and foremost it has to be remembered that the activity that we will attempt, is to cut off the head of one species of plant, and to then replace

that with another species. Granted, they come from the same genus of plants, Vitis, but it is still a far from natural thing for the vine to ordinarily contend with. As such there is some 'rejection rate'. Then come the little handling accidents. Perhaps the graft process mis-matches material size, as people work very fast, (up to 10,000 grafts a day). Next the handling while waxing the upper vine. Later packing vines in boxes in layers of peat, (for a period of warming, thus starting a repairing callous between the two parts) ... unpacking of the boxes later, and another waxing. Transfer to field, and planting into plastic sheet covered, ploughed and ridged soil, (with an irrigation pipe as well,) Any little bit of rough handling will break the vine in these stages. Overall, some nurseries are happy if they graft a million vines, but later only get to harvest 650,000 strong plants, as there are losses all the way through the process. If we have orders for 1.3 million vines, for the

following year, we therefore know that by now we need to have at least two million buds, cut up and prepared for grafting.

This intensive time in our season starts very soon

The time frame of vine nurseries is quite extensive in its variation, but also there is an intensity that runs for a long time. A lot of this is driven by aspects of the weather, as indeed do most harvesting situations, but nurseries need to cycle their way through activity after activity to ensure that one action can follow another. With more than 80 miles of plastic sheeting with an under irrigation dripper line put in as well, the soil has to be just right in moisture content, and then the connections to the main frame need aligning. Further to this the high stem vines need supporting trellis work put in... but only for one season’s use prior to it being up lifted.

> Cabaret Noir Traube

Calendar wise budwood cutting and rootstock dis-budding is in full flow by mid January Late Feb and March is grafting, packing callousing boxes, and then comes about three weeks of warm house and poly tunnel work sometime around April. This is followed by unpacking, re-waxing, delivery to the field

> Sauvignac Traube and planting out for much of May. Then starts summertime weeding, tending to the irrigation, and putting on fungicide. Vines close to the ground are exceptionally susceptible to fungal infections, where any heavy rains break open spore pockets and these easily drift onto the new, young leaves. In quieter moments, it is as well to not forget the 10 hectares or so, of conventional vines that the nursery also holds for some budwood supply. (Remember them!) Mid Jan to early

> Cabernet Blanc Traube June, dawn to dusk and more, six days a week. Not for the faint of heart. A lot to be attended to, and in many and varying aspects as well, but rewards of interest trickle back, and frequently. People who come here to collect their cartons of vines, prior to the springtime planting season, frequently bring examples of wine that they have made. The wines that they like, that they are proud of. We can say for sure what their soil is, what the rootstock is, the variety, the clone, the yield etc, so this adds additional interest. I can say that I get to taste some of the best wines of their type, in the world. Some of these wines inspire a visit to their winery, where maybe some cases are bought as 'showing true varietal characteristics', and to have examples in the company's library of wines is a good thing, This enables the company to illustrate a varieties' potential to future customers. There are also several ongoing research projects, the Piwi wines etc, and other occasions to mingle with people. Germans are a friendly, open, social and generous group of people, and they love a good party. Focused wine tastings happen occasionally, often with a research theme, (Piwi for example,) but other events come around as frequently as we are free to break away from the daily endeavours. Lots to do here, with lots to be learnt. Perhaps more to come back to, on future occasions.

Sam Doncaster works for Volker and Marion Freytag, of Rebschule Freytag, Lachen-Speyerdorf, Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, Pfalz. 43 M AY 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D

The secret life of nitrogen

Jo Co w

NITROGEN

roy e d

Vines may have a reputation for having low nutrient demands, particularly for nitrogen, but ignoring their requirements can result in deficiencies, poor growth, and lower yields. Nitrogen levels in grape composition can impact the must – affecting fermentation and wine ﬂavour profile. Nitrogen has a reputation for being complicated to measure with unpredictable plant-availability. Jo Cowderoy finds out from some of the experts how to demysti﬌ nitrogen in vines. Photo: Julien Searle

> Once nitrogen deficiency symptoms are showing, vine growth and crop development could already be affected

The vine’s needs for nitrogen

In vines, nutrients are generally taken up by the roots from the soil. Calculating how much the vines need, and when, measuring what is in the soil, and ascertaining availability can be challenging – especially with nitrogen. Managing nitrogen in the vineyard is complex. The aim is to control vigour, while optimising yield and grape composition – as well as being mindful of production costs and pollutants. Nitrogen fertilisation has been common in the past but uptake is reportedly inefficient, and manufactured nitrogen fertilisers come with increasing price tags. Vines are considered to have a low, or moderate, requirement for nitrogen, but they are still subject to Liebig's Law of the Minimum – which states ‘yield is proportional to the amount of the most limiting nutrient.’ The textbook ‘barrel’ image

shows that if, for example, nitrogen is in short supply, even if the other nutrients are abundant, yield will be limited. “To all intents and purposes, you can assume vineyard available soil nitrogen (N) level in the UK is virtually zero at bud-break, in all but the mildest and driest winters,” explained Mark Botting, Chartered Chemist and Laboratory Manager at Fruit Advisory Services Team LLP. “The crop requirement in a UK vineyard is in the region of 35kg/ha to 75Kg/ha depending on vine age and yield potential. A good mineral clay loam soil in the UK can mineralise up to 40Kg/ha of N per year in the typical root zone depth – sandy soils and shallow soils over chalk will produce less and organic ‘peaty’ soils considerably more. “Therefore, the grower’s own knowledge of soil type and organic matter level will help estimate how much N will be mineralised during each

> Petiole analysis at FAST- ‘Measure it to manage it’

growing season, along with knowledge of the growth habit – especially vigour – and the yield potential on a block by block and variety by variety basis,” Mark added. "At Rathfinny Estate, we estimate nitrogen requirements based on the previous season’s harvest and how much N we removed in the fruit,” commented Cameron Roucher, Vineyard Manager, Rathfinny. “I record yield from each block to determine how much nitrogen was removed at harvest,” explained Frances Trappey, FACTS qualified Viticulturist at Vinescapes. “I also use petiole analysis from a representative sample of vines within each block to provide an accurate snapshot of the current vine nitrogen status. “The DEFRA fertiliser manual, RB209, is relevant for vines and for good soil management in general. However, it is only a guide and regular soil sampling (the standard is every three years) and petiole analysis (annual/biannual) should be carried out to provide the most accurate snapshot of what is going on in the vineyard - both above and below ground,” added Frances. “For the first year or two after planting, there may not be a need to apply nitrogen,” advised Mark, “but as yields increase in young vines supplemental N by incorporating organic materials or from manufactured nitrogen fertiliser is likely to be required to aid crop establishment. Beyond that age, mature vines are able to retain higher quantities of N in their roots and trunk, so applications of fertiliser are less critical – but are still important to maintain good crop health and yields. If you are adding nitrogen based on a crop requirement of 60Kg/ha and think that your soil can mineralise 35Kg/ha an extra 25Kg/ha is needed. However, not all of the applied N is taken up by the crop. At best in a clay loam soil at a pH of 6.5 the N fertiliser efficiency can be only 80%, but on shallow soils over chalk it can be as low as 55% meaning that to get 25Kg/ha of N in the crop you need to apply 30kg/ha and 45Kg/ha N respectively. “All the below-ground processes that mineralise nitrogen are driven primarily by bacterial and fungal action as soil temperature rises after winter. There are, of course, times when demand exceeds supply which is why spring N fertilizer applications are made in order to support vegetative growth, to feed the growing crop, and equally important but hidden from view, to feed the forming inflorescences that will be next year’s fruiting buds,” continued Mark. “About 99% of soil nitrogen is in an organic form and therefore not directly available to the vine without healthy soil biology. The available forms of nitrogen are produced through mineralization by microorganisms. Compost not only helps supply nutrients but increases soil organic carbon which is a good way to improve the nutrient availability in soils,” added Cameron. <<

M AY 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D

Measuring nitrogen

“Available nitrogen in the soil is difficult to measure accurately, as this can change throughout the year,” explained Frances. “Instead, I will use petiole analysis at bloom and veraison and I will also keep accurate records of yield per block and monitor soil organic matter in the vineyard. Additionally, I regularly scout for signs of nutritional deficiency throughout the season,” Frances added. “Good mineral soils, in drier conditions, will warm up quicker in the spring so N will become available earlier than in cooler, wetter soils. Some growers may not need to apply early N; it is best to have ‘eyes on the ground’ and observe the vineyard,” commented Mark. Soil analysis for nitrogen, and its availability, is a bit complicated,” explained Julian Searle, Agronomist at Agrii. “Dissolved nitrogen as nitrate is an anion, so negatively charged, and not held by the soil inorganic matter (clays) like the positively charged cations, such as potassium, calcium, and magnesium. More practically, growers tend to assess availability and requirement, in woody crops, from the canopy vigour and manage input – required, or not, accordingly. This could be: apply none, a little, or more – depending on crop set after flowering to support and promote yield,” Julian added. “Petiole sap analysis at bloom and at veraison is a good management practice to determine plant nitrogen status, as is leaf blade analysis at an early vegetive stage – at bloom and veraison are just as effective. Research from Oregon in 2017 on Pinot Noir showed that both petiole and leaf blade analysis were equally effective in determining plant nitrogen status, but leaf blade analysis came out on top for predicting nitrogen,

phosphorous and potassium requirements. The results of laboratory analysis of sap or leaf blade nitrogen need to be considered alongside a visual inspection of the vigour of each block within a vineyard when planning nitrogen applications,” explained Mark. “The main factors affecting nitrogen availability in soils are temperature and organic matter content. The higher both are, the more mineralised nitrogen is likely be available. The textbook nitrogen cycle chart is useful for visualising the process,” added Mark.

Nitrogen additions and timing

“Yara publish a graph that shows suggested grape demand over the season,” commented Julian. “Typical timings are a split dose of ground nitrogen – half applied a month before flowering, possibly another post-flowering depending on set. There is evidence in top fruit that nitrogen applied as calcium nitrate pre harvest, or just post, is also beneficial to build over wintering carbohydrate reserves and to feed possible dormant season respiration loss in warmer climates. “It’s also quite common to apply foliar nitrogen pre flowering to assist pollen tube growth and perhaps a post flowering boost where yield looks high and ‘bony’ canopies look to be struggling. Nitrogen additions at veraison can also help provide yeast available nitrogen (YAN) for fermentation,” added Julian. “If you calculate that an annual application of an additional 40Kg/ha N (over and above what is likely to be mineralised by the soil) is required, I would recommend applying 20Kg/ha N adjusted for the fertiliser uptake efficiency described

Photos: Tinwood Estate Vineyard

Iron Chlorine

Sulphur

Boron Magnesium

Calcium

Potassium

Soil conditions and other growth factors

Phosphorus

Nitrogen

Water

most of this is driven by carbohydrates stored after harvest,” explained Frances Trappey. “So, monitoring phenological stages is crucial as this will determine when nitrogen is required – with the most required between bloom and fruit set as well as veraison. “Between post-harvest and leaf fall the application of nitrogen will benefit the vines last flush of root growth and storage of carbohydrate before dormancy. Nitrogen reserves stored as carbohydrates in the vine will fuel early spring growth, so post-harvest nitrogen management is incredibly important. However, be mindful of the closed periods for soil application and that nitrogen applied too late can delay dormancy ultimately making the vines less cold hardy and prone to winter damage. “The source of nitrogen for additions really depends on the circumstance as there are a lot of factors to consider. Application of manufactured nitrogen is not my preferred source because it is expensive, easily leached and if it is applied under the wrong conditions or timing it can have harmful effects on the environment. For example, application to waterlogged soils can cause reduction of nitrate to nitrous oxide which is 300 times more potent than carbon dioxide as a greenhouse gas! I will apply manufactured nitrogen if absolutely necessary to support the immediate need of the vines – determined by

Warmth Light

previously in spring and the other 20Kg/ha N immediately post-harvest when soil temperatures are still high enough that root nutrient uptake is still taking place to build reserves in the roots and trunk,” said Mark. “The timing of additions is always dependant on the season, weather, and growth stage of the vine, and if we are within the NVZ application period,” explained Cameron Roucher. “It is usually good to apply nitrogen about a month after bud burst and just after fruit set to correspond with demand from developing fruit. But this all depends on soil temperature and moisture levels. At Rathfinny we are within an NVZ and therefore are not able to apply post harvest – and in any case finding a window to apply at that time of year is difficult and there is a high risk of leaching due to rainfall. If this wasn’t the case a post harvest application could be beneficial. “We use composts, seaweed, and some manufactured nitrogen – but we are slowly weaning off any artificial nitrogen. We also use foliar applications of nitrogen in very small doses and as a supplement, as I find this is an easy way to tweak canopy growth throughout the season – although macro nutrients are difficult to apply by foliar,” Cameron added. “A vine's main requirement of nitrogen is in early spring to fuel shoot growth however,

Pest

NITROGEN

petiole analysis and nutritional scouting in the vineyard – and if their productivity or health is at stake. “Plant available nitrogen is in the form of nitrate and ammonium and is converted from organic nitrogen in the soil. This is a microbial process which is dependent on temperature, << aeration, and moisture content –

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47 M AY 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D

NITROGEN Cover crops

<< compacted, cold, or waterlogged soils will limit the conversion of organic nitrogen into plant available nitrogen. Therefore, my focus is mainly on maintaining good soil structure, biology, pH, and adequate levels of soil organic matter between 2-4% and including other organic sources of nitrogen as foliar spray, such as seaweed. pH is important as nitrogen becomes less available to the vines below 6.0 and above 8.0,” added Frances.

“For solid environmental and cost reasons, growers should be looking to increase the use of organic forms of nitrogen over manufactured nitrogen fertilisers,” commented Mark. "I suspect that in the coming years the spreading of organic waste materials from digestate plants and the like will become more commonplace in vineyard nitrogen application regimes as suitable application machinery that can manoeuvre in rowed crops like grapevines becomes available. “A winter legume such as vetch or clover as a cover crop can be a good N source. Other incorporated cover crops whose main aim is to avoid a bare soil surface over winter or to improve soil structure will also be a good source of N,” Mark added. Sam Lane, Technical Manager, Cotswolds Seeds Ltd, supplies seed mixes for vineyard cover crops. “When considering cover crop seed mixtures, we establish what the mix is trying to achieve, how long it will be in the ground for; permanent, three years or six months - as some plant species have a longer life span than others – and what sort of soil type and environment the cover crop will be grown in. We also consider if species will become a problem in certain situations, such as going to

C:N ratios

The carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is the mass of carbon to the mass of nitrogen in the soil. The ratio is significant as it can affect plant residue decomposition and nutrient cycling. “The ideal carbon to nitrogen ratio in soil and composts is said to be 25-30:1,” explained Julian Searle. “The trend is to use organic based nitrogen fertilisers as they are slow release, good for a perennial fruit crop, and they also build soil organic matter and humic content – which stores nutrients and the soil biota that mineralises it. Having a high ratio, that is too much carbon, will lock up nitrogen and having too little, or a low ratio, then nitrogen is lost to the atmosphere and by leaching,” said Julian.

> The nitrogen cycle

seed and potentially becoming a weed issue or growing too tall and bulky and suppressing or smothering existing plants. “Broadly speaking, cover crop plant species can be broken down into those that fix nitrogen (legumes) and those that scavenge and hold any available nitrogen in the soil. Legumes fix atmospheric nitrogen from the air by creating an association with atmospheric nitrogen and rhizobium in the plant root nodules, converting the nitrogen to allow it to be utilised for plant growth. “However, legumes will only 'fix' nitrogen in warm soils, when soil temp is a consistent seven degrees, usually from late April to October – it is a myth that they will fix nitrogen over the winter when the soils are cold! As you would expect legumes, such as clover, vetch and trefoils to have a high nitrogen ration, fixing nitrogen in warm conditions for themselves and boosting the plants around them and then releasing a quick burst of nitrogen when they are either grazed, cut or terminated and mulched in. “Other cover crop species such as cereals, warm season grasses like millets and sorghums or brassicas that are allowed to become mature and << woody tend to have a much higher carbon

Component

Input to soil

Atmospheric nitrogen

Atmospheric fixation and deposition

Industrial fixation (commercial fertilisers)

Crop harvest

Animal manures and biosolids

Loss from soil

Volatilisation Plant residues Runoff and erosion

Biological fixation by legume plants

Plant uptake Organic nitrogen Im Mi

48 M AY 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D

ner

ali

bi l

sat

isa t io

i on

Ammounium (NH₄+) n

Denitrification Nitrate (NO3-)

Leaching

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NITROGEN

Photos: Tinwood Estate Vineyard

<< ratio, meaning they release any nitrogen scavenged and built up within the plant as it breaks down over a longer period. “When considering a cover crop to boost nitrogen availability, one option is to plant a high legume mixture prior to setting up a vineyard. This could be based around a two year or three year cover crop of perennial clovers like red clover and alsike clover, to be terminated and incorporated just before new vines are planted. Alternatively, if there is a more immediate time pressure, fast growing annual legume species can be sown for a short burst nitrogen fix, such as crimson clover, persian clover, berseem clover, or vetch – these species will fix around 100-150kg of nitrogen per hectare during warm spring and summer conditions over three to five months. “Some growers will find that low growing, prostrate nitrogen fixing species, such as small leaf white clover and/or yellow trefoil planted immediately beneath the vines, act as a nitrogen fixing companion crop over several years. The low growth habit ensures they do not compete or disrupt the growth of the vines above. “On high fertility sites a short term, high biomass hungry species can be planted to scavenge as much residual nitrogen from the soil, such as quick growing threeto-four-month brassica species like mustard or a fast-growing annual ryegrass. Ideally these cover crops should be cut and removed from the site and composted or utilised elsewhere to lower the fertility levels in the soil. Again, this is normally done prior to setting up the vineyard. If a vineyard is already in place, repeatedly mowing and removing the vegetation between the vines will also lower the soil fertility,” Sam added. At Rathfinny we have been experimenting with various seed mixes for cover crops and are trying to find the holy grail for not having to apply fertiliser at all! By using cover crops to fix nitrogen from the atmosphere, and then protecting the soil biology, we aim to get to a position where we don’t have to apply fertiliser in any form,” said Cameron Roucher.

The regulations

“There are lots of rules which stipulate when and how much nitrogen you can apply to your land,” explained Frances Trappey. “Soil applications of manufactured

John Buchan AGRONOMY LTD For independent advice on: Interpretation of soil and tissue Formulation of nutrient programmes Supply of tailor-made products General agronomic advice

50 M AY 2 0 2 2 | V I N E YA R D

nitrogen and organic manures are limited to the open periods only, unless you have received written advice from a FACTS qualified advisor. You should also follow the Code of Good Agricultural Practice which stipulates the conditions you should not spread nitrogen fertilisers on land. For example, because nitrate is easily leached through the soil, this should not be spread when heavy rain is forecasted within the next 48 hours. You should also be aware if your vineyard is in a Nitrate Vulnerable Zone (NVZ) as this will further dictate how and when you can apply N to your land,” said Frances. “If I understand the recent Farming Rules for Water (England) correctly, for those growers not in NVZ’s land managers should have a nutrient management plan in place based on ADAS Nutrient Management Guide (RB209) tables or similar app-based calculators or created by a FACTS qualified advisor. The plan should take account of plant tissue analysis, soil analysis, and the nutrient content of manures and fertilisers applied,” added Mark.

Nitrogen for fermentation

Beyond the vineyard, an understanding of the grapevine nitrogen status, and ultimately must composition, is important for high-quality grape production. “Application of nitrogen in the vineyard, be it foliar or soil applied, will increase both FAN (free available nitrogen) and YAN (yeast available nitrogen- which is amino acid nitrogen plus FAN),” explained David Cowderoy, Consultant Winemaker and BevTech Ltd Managing Director. “The increase, and balance between FAN and YAN is hard to predict as it is influenced by many other factors. From a wine quality perspective sufficient levels of FAN are essential for yeast growth early on during fermentation. However, excessive levels can give rise to rapid yeast multiplication and then competition for nutrients later during fermentation – and potential metabolic uncoupling leading to reduction and stuck ferments. Conversely high levels of amino acid nitrogen will increase biosynthesis of flavour compounds. “Nitrogen additions in the vineyard will affect grape composition, but in my view, trying to manipulate must nitrogen levels by vineyard additions is a very blunt instrument and risks errors. It is far better to measure must FAN and YAN and then make winery additions according to the vinification protocol and above all the requirements of the chosen yeast strain,” added David.

Conclusion

“As with all soil nutrients, nitrogen management goes beyond just looking at the numbers in a given year. Nitrogen management is looking at the whole farming system above and below ground, being precise about your applications, planning and developing a long-term vineyard management plan that should be compliant with legislation and mindful of your community. Because both organic and manufactured forms of nitrogen fertilisers can be polluting to water and air, we should all be doing our part to protect these resources for our communities, and ecosystems (human and otherwise!),” concluded Frances Trappey.

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Nitrogen

A VITICULTURIST'S DIARY

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