Vineyard February 2021 by KELSEY Media

VINEYARD for viticulturists in Great Britain ™

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FEBRUARY 2021

Stunning new wines from boutique producer INSIDE

Vineyard visits ◆ Master of Wine interviews ◆ Winemaking: Earth filtration alternatives ◆

PLUS

Matthew Juke’s wines of the month ◆ Top tips for a successful vineyard ◆

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www.vineyardmagazine.co.uk VINEYARD Kelsey Media, The Granary, Downs Court Yalding Hill, Yalding, Maidstone, Kent, ME18 6AL 01959 541444 EDITORIAL Editor: Jo Cowderoy vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk Studio Manager: Jo Legg jo.legg@kelsey.co.uk Graphic Designer: James Pitchford james.pitchford@kelsey.co.uk ADVERTISEMENT SALES Jamie McGrorty 01303 233883 jamie.mcgrorty@kelsey.co.uk

NEWS 8

New Chair and Patrons for the Drinks Trust

The OIV welcomes back the UK!

English sparkling wine leading global innovation

REGULARS 16

In conversation

Matthew Jukes

Editor's visit

Representing you

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The agronomy diary

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The vine post

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Machinery

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Kelsey Media 2020 © all rights reserved. Kelsey Media is a trading name of Kelsey Publishing Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part is forbidden except with permission in writing from the publishers. Note to contributors: articles submitted for consideration by the editor must be the original work of the author and not previously published. Where photographs are included, which are not the property of the contributor, permission to reproduce them must have been obtained from the owner of the copyright. The editor cannot guarantee a personal response to all letters and emails received. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor or the Publisher. Kelsey Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services oﬀered by third parties. Kelsey Media takes your personal data very seriously. For more information of our privacy policy, please visit Kelsey Media takes your personal data very seriously. For more information of our privacy policy, please visit https://www.kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy/ . If at any point you have any queries regarding Kelsey’s data policy you can email our Data Protection Oﬃcer at dpo@kelsey.co.uk.

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We speak to Becky Hull, Master of Wine and Waitrose buyer about customer demand for provenance and the support for local. There are certainly label upgrades happening. With all the ingredients for an epic blockbuster – passion, romance, sorrow, adventure and adversity – the story of Sugrue South Downs is truly a legend. Domestic tourists forecast to spend £37.6bn on leisure day trips. Delving beneath the surface of vineyard success. Reviewing frost protection analysis. Clarifying and stabilising your wine before bottling. The Voen Anti Frost Heater.

Front cover image: Sugrue South Downs © Julia Claxton

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vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk @VineyardMagGB VineyardMagGB

CONTENTS Features

26 30 34 42

Fine dining in the vines A family business both grows and sources, local Sussex produce for their London restaurant group. Keeping the wolf from the door Luke Wolfe has established and managed vineyards, harvested thousands of tonnes of grapes and has now formed Agro-Pro, to use this experience to help other growers.

Wild about weeds? Vineyard finds out if vines are happy sharing their space with weeds, and if not, how can weeds be controlled.

Earth filtration RIP? Vineyard asks if the earth filter still has a place in a modern winery? If not, why not? And what are the alternatives?

Jo C

specialists Hutchinsons offers specialist Viticultural agronomy advice, guidance on nutrition, precision soil mapping and soil health. We supply all production inputs and a range of sundry equipment for vine management, together with a comprehensive range of packaging materials. Our professionalism is coupled with our commitment to customer service. With a highly experienced Horticultural agronomist team and dedicated Produce Packaging division covering the whole country, we have all the advice you want and all the inputs you need, just a phone call away.

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TRURO

Welcome to the February edition of Vineyard magazine, to all grape growers and winemakers – and to everyone interested in the exciting and fast-growing wine region of Great Britain! This is the first edition of Vineyard that is available nationwide on retail shelves in response to such an interest in British vineyards and locally produced wines – so cheers to our new readers! Starting the year with another lockdown has been tough for many business and individuals. Reports of an increase in wine consumption and desire to shop locally has helped many vineyards, particularly those that have been able to establish online shops and local delivery services. I know that amongst my friends the usual dry January has not happened this year as they enjoy local wines! As soon as we are let loose from lockdown there are beautiful vineyards and fabulous wine tastings waiting for visitors – right on their doorsteps and no need to travel overseas. Some have fabulous restaurants and others create unique fine dining events in romantic vineyard settings. With over 200 vineyards open to the public, supporting wine tourism is a major focus for the industry body WineGB and is the topic for their next conference, taking place early March. Wine tourism gurus, professionals and experts will share their knowledge, experience and best practice, so that vineyards can ensure their visitor experiences are first-rate. As the cellar-doors prime themselves for opening, vineyard managers and winemakers are busy behind the scenes. Battling weeds is one of the many challenges that faces our viticulturists during the season. In days gone by, herbicide sprays would have been used, but vineyard managers are now moving to mechanical and other methods of weeding. There are many options available – including sheep! Winemakers are also busy this time of year, preparing and filtering the previous years’ wines for bottling. With so many options and advances in filtration technology is hard to choose which technique is best. Luckily some of our experienced winemakers share their knowledge in this edition. I’m certainly looking forward to gathering with friends and family again – and hopefully enjoying some fine dining in the vines. The festive period was quiet in the Cowderoy household, but there is always an upside – less sharing of the fine wines! This year these included some wonderful examples from Hattingley Valley, Chapel Down, Bluebell and Exton Park.

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From the editor

Now available on retail shelves.

The Vineyard

ALNWICK

eroy d ow

by email to vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

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NEWS

New Chair and Patrons for the Drinks Trust The Drinks Trust has appointed a new Chair of the Board of Trustees, Troy Christensen, as well as three new Patrons – Ian Burrell, Becky Paskin and Jaega Wise. They will join existing patrons Matthew Rhys, Jancis Robinson MW OBE and Olly Smith as well as Founder Patron, Tom Yusef who said: “The help and time from our new patrons to further our causes whilst helping The Drinks Trust to reach new audiences is greatly appreciated. We are excited to be working with such dynamic and inspirational people in the drinks industry”. Troy Christensen joined the charity’s Board of Trustees in 2018, having been a long-standing supporter of The Drinks Trust both personally and through his company Enotria & Coe. Troy Christensen brings extensive expertise as an industry business leader who will look to build on the extensive work and repositioning the charity undertook in 2020. This remarkable charity has represented and defended employees of the wine and spirits industry for over a century. After the unbelievable challenges 2020 presented to our industry through the impact of Covid-19 and government policy, this is a very relevant time for The Drinks Trust. The support it offers can be life-changing and reminds us how we can give back through initiatives like The Drinks Community. Combined with the ongoing conversation about the creation of a Minister for Hospitality, the work of The Drinks Trust will be more important than ever in the next few years,” commented Troy Christensen. In 2021, the patrons will be joined by Ian Burrell also known as The Rum Ambassador. An ex-professional basketball player in the UK and international recording artist, he has now established himself as the world’s only recognised Global Ambassador for the rum category. Becky Paskin is a UK-based spirits journalist, whisky specialist and consultant who has been writing about drinks for over 13 years. Becky is also a judge for the IWSC and member of exclusive society Keepers of the Quaich. She was named 2020 Icons of Whisky Communicator of the Year, IWSC Spirits Communicator of the Year 2020 and listed as About Time Magazine’s Top 10

Women to Watch in Drinks 2020. Jaega Wise is a drinks expert, TV and Radio Presenter. She is a regular presenter of BBC Radio 4's The Food Programme. Jaega won the coveted title of Brewer of the Year in 2018 and Best Beer Broadcaster in 2020. The Drinks Trust is a charity organisation that provides support to people who are currently working, or have worked, in the UK drinks industry, including vocational, practical, emotional and financial support. In March 2020, The Drinks Trust introduced its Patron program, with the aim of raising awareness and increasing the charity’s reach and impact. .

Wine Intelligence acquired by IWSR Drinks Market Analysis

IWSR Drinks Market Analysis for the worldwide beverage alcohol industry, has acquired London-based Wine Intelligence, the top global experts on wine consumer research and insights, for an undisclosed sum. The combined offering provides the industry with robust insight into consumption trends, consumer behaviour and growth opportunities for the global beverage alcohol sector. Founded in 2002, Wine Intelligence conducts projects on behalf of wine businesses in more than 35 wine markets. This acquisition enables the IWSR and Wine Intelligence teams to build a world-class consumer behaviour division

focused exclusively on the global beverage alcohol industry. “As Covid-19 reshapes consumer behaviour and beverage alcohol drinking occasions, industry stakeholders are looking for a deeper understanding of the consumer attitudes driving the market,” remarks Mark Meek, CEO of IWSR. “Our vision is shaped by our clients, and this acquisition is a tremendous opportunity for us to expand on our existing offerings and work with the Wine Intelligence team to provide the industry with access to comprehensive consumer insight across all categories of the drinks industry, including beer, wine, spirits and the ready-to-drink sector.” This acquisition follows a successful decade long

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

relationship between IWSR and Wine Intelligence. Recent collaborations include the IWSR Covid-19 Consumer Tracker, an in-depth consumer sentiment research report series tracking the on-going impact of Covid-19 on the consumption of and attitude to beverage alcohol over an 18-month period. “We are delighted to join the IWSR family after nearly 10 years of our organisations partnering on behalf of our client base,” says Lulie Halstead, CEO of Wine Intelligence. “I share Mark’s vision of us building a world-class and comprehensive offering of data and consumer insights to support the global beverage alcohol sectors, which we are uniquely positioned to do.”

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The OIV welcomes back the UK!

The 1 January 2021 marked the return of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland to the International Organisation of Vine and Wine, making it the 48th Member Country integrated by the Organisation. The UK was an active member of the former OIV from 1973 to 2004 but left due to costs. Peter Hayes, past President of the OIV commented: “I am delighted to learn of, and very much welcome, the return of the UK to the OIV. In previous times, the UK as a major consumer country contributed much thought and deliberation to the scientific and technical efforts of the OIV, the outcomes of which generate considerable influence, globally, on policy, regulation, best practice and attitudes within industry, government and markets. “This re-engagement, especially in the current public health and global trade context, is highly significant given the ongoing importance of the UK as a consumer and wine trading country and especially as it consolidates development as an exciting ‘new’ wine producer country. “Potential is now established for effective engagement of the UK with other members around statistics, technical and scientific matters, and within the strategic plan of the OIV. This engagement is delivered through its Commissions; Viticulture, Oenology, Economy and Law, Safety and Health and with development activity executed via the Expert Groups and Working Groups of each commission. “I strongly encourage the UK Wine Industry through WineGB to ensure that it

engages with DEFRA to ensure its involvement in the UK delegation to the OIV and contributes effectively to relevant Expert Groups and Working Groups.” Simon Thorpe, CEO, WineGB added, “WineGB is delighted that the UK is joining OIV – this is something we’ve lobbied our government for over a number of years. This is a very fortuitous and timely move; with the new UK-EU trade deal following Brexit, the UK is effectively committed to follow OIV recommendations on permitted practices and definitions. Sitting as an OIV member will ensure that as we move forward we will be able to ensure our voice is heard as a wine producing nation in our own right.” The OIV Director General, Pau Roca, reportedly toasted the UK re-joining the organisation with a bottle of English sparkling wine, noting that the UK was one of the largest wine markets in the world and although only a small player in terms of production, it had seen “exponential growth” in recent years, particularly of sparkling wines. Miles Beale, Chief Executive of the Wine and Spirit Trade Association commented, “We welcome the UK government’s decisions to re-join OIV membership. As a rapidly growing producer of wine, it is right that the UK should be represented and have its say. However, OIV membership is only half of the picture. Now that the UK has left the EU it is also vitally important that Britain joins the World Wine Trade Group (with its different membership) to help cement the UK's position at the centre of the global hub for wine trading.”

WSTA calls on Chancellor to cut alcohol duty and extend VAT reduction

The WSTA has called on the Treasury to cut wine and spirit duty and extend the hospitality VAT reduction in the upcoming Budget to help the sector recover, as Covid-19 continues to impact wine and spirit businesses. According to WSTA a duty cut will safeguard UK wine and spirit businesses, many of whom are SMEs, protect future income to the Treasury and support a quick and sustainable recovery for the UK’s hospitality sector – in which wine and spirits will play an important role. As it stands, the temporary cut in VAT to 5% on soft drinks and food will lapse in March.

The WSTA supports extending the scheme until at least March 2022 but argues that the scheme must go further and is urging the Government to broaden the scheme to include alcoholic drinks. In March 2020 the Chancellor announced that all alcohol excise duties were frozen, which avoided increasing the burden on drinks industry businesses but the WSTA points out that the closure of on-trade venues days after the announcement meant that businesses were unable to feel the benefit. The WSTA believes that a cut this time around would be a show of support for businesses after an

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

incredibly challenging 2020, with the outlook for 2021 still uncertain. In the medium term, the WSTA wants to work with government to achieve a simpler, fairer system of alcohol taxation in the UK through the ongoing Alcohol Duty Review. Miles Beale Chief Executive of the Wine & Spirit Trade Association said: “We have submitted our asks to the Treasury ahead of the Budget in March. We appreciate that the public finances are under tremendous pressure but so are the businesses we represent. That is why our asks are modest and targeted at promoting the recovery of our sector throughout 2021.”

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We are now talking with customers for 2021. So, if you are starting to think of your disgorging requirements, call Itasca Wines! Our team is now taking bookings. Disgorging, Storage, Labelling and Packaging, Dosage Advise and Consulting. Full label and design services also available, come and talk with our Graphic Designers and let Itasca Wines turn your ideas into that special and distinctive label.

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F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

NEWS

English sparkling wine leading global innovation English sparkling wine is fast becoming a leader on the global stage - not just for its exceptional quality and dedicated producers, but also because of the industry’s thirst to drive innovation. Backed by £6m of government investment the industry is embracing innovation and the latest technology to protect our countryside and land. Through Innovate UK, government funding has been provided for projects that continue to create multiple forward looking industry solutions. One example of this is a new system to recognise and remove potentially harmful debris and microorganisms from grapes, which results in extended grape shelf-life, reduced waste and CO2 emissions. Food Minister, Victoria Prentis commented: “Growers and producers in England set a high bar internationally thanks to their thirst for innovation and due to unique methods of managing their estates. It is truly inspiring to see ecologically friendly and surprising ways to make sure vineyards are well-maintained and that the soil is as nutrient rich as possible.” Simon Robinson, Chairman, Wines of Great Britain (WineGB) added: “Our fast-growing industry is poised at a truly exciting stage of its development. There are now more than 700 vineyards across England and Wales, more than 200 of which will be open to welcome visitors when Covid-19 restrictions are lifted. With support from government and inward investment, from individuals and even Champagne houses, we are growing our reputation as one of the world’s most exciting emergent wine regions.” As we leave the Common Agricultural Policy behind and move towards our new system we will continue to build on these initiatives; for example through a new Research & Development package for England, unlocking innovation and

encouraging agri-food businesses to become more involved in innovative solutions. The Government will also continue to support our wine industry in taking further steps forward, such as helping with cross-industry collaboration to encourage events and tourism. The wine sector will also be eligible to apply for grants through the Farming Investment Fund. Government investment in the wine industry has included support for: ◆ frost fans or protective storage and production solutions,

◆ new wineries and cellars, ◆ new testing suites and visitor centres, ◆ research projects into weather forecasting for vineyards, ◆ creating online retail platforms for online sales, ◆ building digital weather stations or providing weather forecast services to help predict and mitigate impacts of adverse weather on vines, ◆ helping to expand winery areas, equipment and tourist facilities, further creating jobs and increasing productivity.

UK wine tourism: the roadmap to success 12

With over 200 vineyards open to visitors the landscape and opportunities for wine tourism is fast changing and is the theme for the next WineGB ‘virtual’ conference – ‘UK wine tourism: the roadmap to success’ – which will take place online from 2 to 4 March 2021. Mark Harvey, MD of Chapel Down Wines will chair the series of webinars, with expert international speakers including wine tourism guru, Steve Charters MW.

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

The UK already has several established regional wine routes and trails, such as the Wine Garden of England, Vineyards of the Surrey Hills and the Yorkshire Wine Trail, and these will share their best practice and experience with other emerging regions. Other tourist industry experts will provide their view on the creating an excellent visitor experience for tours and tastings. Further details, registration and ticket sales can be found on the WineGB website.

Accurate forecasting helps secure the crop Following a bracing start to the new year, reliable and accurate weather data is proving an invaluable asset to viticulturists across the UK, ensuring that their high value vine crops are protected. “Given the sensitive nature of vines and our rather unpredictable climate, deploying tools such as weather stations is a no-brainer really,” said Agrovista’s James Martin, Weather & Decision Support Systems Manager. “2021 has started with reasonably harsh conditions – frost and snow – and this is off the back of a wet autumn. Knowledge is key so if we have warning that these weather conditions are coming, we can do our best to limit the damage. And it’s often the frost warning function that vine growers find most beneficial from their weather stations,” he continued. Peter Self of Whitehall Vineyard in Wiltshire purchased a weather station after losing half of his crop during a particularly bad spring frost. Vowing not to be caught out again he now uses weather station data to improve the accuracy of forecasting in his area. “There seemed to be fair discrepancy between online weather forecasts and the temperatures and conditions we were actually experiencing on site,” said Peter. “In

contrast, the weather station is far more precise and provides reassurance. As a new vineyard with hopes of expanding in the future, accurate weather forecasting is very important to us. We can’t be knocked back again with crop losses. “Although we installed it for the frost alerts, I’m finding the rest of the data increasingly useful and have connected it to various devices including my smartphone. It couldn’t be easier.” As the stations operate through a networked system, larger growers with multiple sites or vineyards can access their complete weather data in one place. A full record of time and duration of the conditions can also be provided if required. James added: “Although weather stations are commonly deployed in areas susceptible to frost damage, growers can also use them to forecast the risk of diseases such as mildew and botrytis. This leads to more efficient and timely use of plant protection products. “As with most technology, you get out of it what you put in. If growers are willing to put a little time into forecasting and unlock the added functions of the stations, then they really do perform.”

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NEWS

Around the world New Zealand Winegrowers have announced the programme for their first Virtual New Zealand Wine Week – which kicks off on 8 February 2021. There are activities planned for the UK, as well as USA, Ireland and Canada – including tastings, discussions and online activities. There is lots of content and insights from a range of renowned speakers. There is also the opportunity to participate in live discussions with leading wine professionals from around

New Zealand Wine Week the world. “The events have been designed to explore New Zealand’s wine story showcasing its “premium, sustainable, and diverse wines”, said NZW. A series of webinars from 8-12 February will cover a wide range of topics from ‘Challenging the Myths around Food Miles’ – a sustainability focused webinar in association with Harpers

Wine & Spirit, to ‘Pinot Noir Soils’ – delving into the different regions that excel in growing Pinot noir. Other activities are lined up including ‘What’s New… What’s Next?’ – a winemaker led panel discussion seminar diving deep behind the scenes in New Zealand wine cellars. More information can be found on the New Zealand Winegrowers website.

Bordeaux wine tour company adapts to survive lockdown

When the world couldn’t travel due to the Covid-19 pandemic, with its devastating effect on tourism, owner of Bordeaux wine tour business Rustic Vines quickly responded by launching a new online enterprise. Oui Cellars is a new online store that takes the Bordeaux wines from Rustic Vines wine route straight to the doorsteps of enthusiasts around the world. “As the Rustic Vines tours came to a screaming halt in 2020 we were left to adapt to ensure commercial survival and that my passion for Bordeaux

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

wine had legacy,” explains owner, and ex professional rugby player, Tim Cowley. “I have built a strong and trusted relationships with the Châteaux in Bordeaux and was very pleased to see them support this evolution of Rustic Vines and become suppliers of Oui Cellar,” he added. Tim’s urge to extend his Bordeaux wine passion and navigate his business to ensure longevity and success saw the birth of Oui Cellar, which boasts a network of exceptional Châteaux from Bordeaux, including many Premier Grand Cru Classe.

EFFERVESCENCES DU MONDE

Photo: Ian Pack

AWARDS

Effervescent double silver Effervescences du Monde is reputed to be one of the toughest sparkling wine competitions in the world; taking place each year in the Burgundy region of France. Among this year’s medal winners were two wines from Henners Vineyard: Vintage 2014 and the NV Rosé. The International competition attracted entries of nearly 480 wines from 19 countries – but the judging is so tough that only 35 golds and 115 silver medals were awarded. Unlike many competitions the judging panel is rigorously selected and the 80 or so International judges are assessed and graded on their tasting ability. “We are so proud to win two silver medals at Effervescences du Monde – it's such an achievement. Henners is owned by Boutinot and we work alongside French winemakers, so it is terrific to have medals for their English wines on French territory!” Commented Henners’ winemaker, Collette O’Leary.

Vineyard speaks to winemaker Collette O’Leary Henners Vineyard has been graced by many Plumpton College alumni since it was established in 2007, and the current team includes winemaker Collette O’Leary, and her colleagues Colm Evans and Will Robinson. Collette talks to Vineyard.

How did you become a winemaker?

I came at the winemaking industry from being a wine consumer. I took a career break in 2006 and went travelling around the world, which included a stint working at a cellar door in New Zealand. The experience opened up the wine world to me and so I started looking into the burgeoning UK wine scene and Plumpton College. It took a while to get things in place, but in 2011 I quit my job and enrolled at Plumpton College to study the three-year Viticulture and Oenology (winemaking) degree. Since graduating I have worked at wineries in California, England and South Africa, and joined Henners Vineyard as Estate Manager in January 2019 working alongside other former Plumpton College students, Colm Evans and Will Robinson.

Henners and Boutinot

While the Henners team on site is small, the estate is owned by Boutinot – so we benefit from being part of a much wider

team – especially working with our sister wineries in the Rhône, Domaine Boutinot and in South Africa, Wildeberg. We like to share experiences, ask advice and of course indulge in a little overseas rivalry! It is fascinating to see how English wine is perceived overseas and how that continues to change. It’s such an exciting time for the English wine industry and Henners very much wants to be front and centre of what’s happening; whether it’s working with other producers to grow English wine as a serious category in England and establish English wine as a category in overseas markets or being one of the first estates to be accredited in both the vineyard and winery under the WineGB sustainability scheme.

The future?

At Henners we are doubling our winery capacity in the next year, and securing more growers to work with in order to expand our fruit sourcing. We are also investing in our cellar door and hospitality facilities. One of our philosophies is a focus on continuous improvement and getting the best out of the vineyards and the fruit which we hope is evident in the glass. It is always gratifying when that effort is recognised through independent awards such as Effervescents du Monde with its focus on sparkling wines from around the world.

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

SALES AND MARKETING

In conversation...

Beck y H u

Waitrose stocks over 120 English and Welsh wines, many of which are exclusive to regional branches – with the wine delivered direct from the producer. Waitrose even has its own vineyard in Hampshire, Leckford Estate. Vineyard speaks to Becky Hull, Master of Wine and Waitrose buyer of English and Welsh sparkling wine about customer demand for provenance, the support for local, and the bright future for our wine producing industry. Why a career in wine?

I studied languages at university and then graduated with no idea whatsoever of what to do next! Whilst waiting for inspiration to arrive, I got a temporary job at my local branch of Oddbins and absolutely loved it. Wine is more than the flavour in the glass – it blends geography with science, history and the traditions and culture of the people that make it, in an intriguing and endlessly fascinating way. Oddbins were brilliant at the time at giving you opportunities to taste and helping to propel you through formal wine exams, so it was a priceless springboard to a career in wine. I was then lucky enough to get a position at Sainsbury's as an assistant to the buying team. Observing the commercial aspects of the job made me desperate to get my own buying responsibility. I really enjoy being immersed in the wine world but also the supplier contact and negotiation. I bought most wine areas during my time at Sainsbury's, but particularly enjoyed looking after Australia and New Zealand, North and South America and, of course, English wine.

When did you join Waitrose?

Waitrose has always been the holy grail of wine buying as the focus on quality is unrivalled and as a buyer you have total autonomy when deciding which wines to list. I landed my dream job in 2006 and my buying areas are Champagne, Sparkling wine, including English fizz, and Rosé.

How tough is it to become a Master of Wine?

I passed the MW in 1997 and it is excruciatingly tough! Working full time whilst trying to study for such a rigorous qualification is pretty exhausting and you have to be totally dedicated and single-minded for many years. You have to make sacrifices (like no social life) and have a lot of self-belief to power through. The wonderful thing about the MW, is just how generous people in the wine community are to students – sparing their own time to answer endless questions. So it really opens doors to your personal wine heroes. And being on the study programme gives you an amazing opportunity to network with other students drawn from the global wine stage, which broadens your horizons and perspective.

Are you seeing an increased interest in English wine? Waitrose wine buyers have had a particular interest in English wine for a long time. I think we spotted the potential before it was really being taken that seriously and it has been such a privilege to see the industry come of age. As a wine buyer you are used to dealing with regions or countries with entrenched winemaking traditions and styles, so it's really invigorating to be on the ground watching history unfold before your very eyes and being part of this emerging story. Sales of English wine have gone from strength to strength over the last ten years and with some big harvests just coming through now in non-vintage sparkling wine blends, we will be able to ramp sales up to the next level. The English wine industry has become far more professional and the quality and consistency of our wines have improved exponentially.

The Waitrose ‘Local and Regional’ scheme

Which wines did you drink over Christmas and New Year?

What do you like to do when not buying wine?

Waitrose stocks over 120 English wines in total, sourced from more than 50 different producers. Lots of these are part of our ‘Local and Regional’ scheme, whereby wines are delivered direct to nearby branches straight from the vineyard. We define 'Local' as the vineyard being less than 30 miles from the branch, and ‘Regional’, as 50 miles. We are constantly on the lookout for new and exciting wines to add to this growing collection of national and ‘Local and Regional’. With so many great wines it can be a challenge to pick from what's on offer, especially in the major producing regions such as Sussex and Hampshire. The full national and ‘Local and Regional' ranges are available via our specialist online shop, Waitrose Cellar www.waitrosecellar.com I think we are all more aware of the provenance of our shopping these days and we're finding that customers increasingly want the opportunity to support local businesses. It's still quite a novelty to have a vineyard on your doorstep, and for wine enthusiasts, buying a special bottle from a vineyard just down the road makes it even more significant!

I'm a big fan of the Camel Valley Pinot Noir Rosé Brut from Cornwall, so that was a highlight at Christmas. And then the Nyetimber NV Cherie Demi-Sec from West Sussex was a real treat with Christmas cake on New Year's Day!

Drinking wine! I'm also a keen gardener, which generally consists of buying far too many plants, and putting them in borders, never to be seen again – and finding excuses not to go to my allotment.

What effect has the pandemic had on wine sales?

The Covid-19 pandemic has had different effects on buying habits as the year has progressed. When we had that glorious spell of hot weather, and took refuge in our gardens, we saw a big surge in wine sales, particularly rosé, which had a phenomenal year. And then at Christmas and New Year, it was clear that after a miserable year, customers wanted to treat themselves to something a bit more special – rather than buying multiple bottles to share with guests, they traded up to premium wines. We saw unprecedented sales of Champagne and traditional method English sparkling, both in store and online. Overall, our online wine sales more than doubled in 2020, so it was very definitely a busy year! In fact, English sparkling volumes have grown another 35% with us over the last twelve months, and that's after many years of sustained growth.

The future?

After such a tumultuous time, with so many unforeseen and previously unimagined events, I'm nervous about predicting the future. But it feels as though we all have more of a sense of what's really important: celebrating time with family and friends and connecting with the natural world. English and Welsh wines are well placed to capitalise on both of those trends – and I certainly think that our wine producing industry has a very bright future!

JA N UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

WINE REVIEWS Mat h e w

Label design

es Juk

There are certainly label upgrades happening.  www.matthewjukes.com paper-plane vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk

There were two concurrent inspirations for this month’s theme. Firstly, my wife Amelia made an off the cuff remark over the Christmas break about how a number English wines, with delicious flavours, are let down by their lack of original and inspirational label design. I agree that there are fewer memorable labels within our shores than there ought to be and far too many duff ones, too. Secondly, this kernel of an idea for a label-themed article was boosted by the remarkable amount of feedback I received after my Breaky Bottom piece, in this magazine’s December issue, and in particular my comments about their spectacular label and capsule artwork. BB’s creative consultants even dropped me a line, so if you are a wine-owner and you fancy a full make-over, I will leave it to you to find out who they are. Interestingly, I have called in a large number of wines for a massive English wine update and a few of the wineries mentioned they are awaiting new branding before sending their bottles over, so there are certainly label upgrades happening nationwide. Labels are both the birth certificates and also the miniature advertising hoardings for a bottle of wine. They ought to include all of the pertinent facts about the wine as well as looking eye-catching and memorable at the same time as giving the customer as much of an idea about its flavour as possible. It is a very big ask and while there is an awful lot to think about I have chosen three wines opposite which do some, but perhaps not all (you will be the judge), of these requirements very well indeed. While great taste – I am

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talking about artwork now, not wine – is in the eye of the beholder, there is no excuse for leaving important information off the label. I have always favoured labels that tell you exactly where a wine comes from and which feature also the vintage on the front of the bottle, as these facts are critical. Wine brands should endeavour to include a degree of originality, too. Your winery name ought to be unique, so you already have a dominant theme! You have an annual opportunity to tweak your labels so don’t stress too much about trying to make wholesale changes in one go if you feel that your brand needs some refreshing. However, I remember when Billecart-Salmon Champagne changed their labels from their stunning, historical ones to the ‘new’ BS squiggle. I was not alone in recoiling from this seemingly futuristic and oddly inappropriate manoeuvre, but as the years have rolled by I think of this change as a genius piece of brave and inspirational re-branding. So, either move slowly and deliberately or throw caution to the wind and get on with it. If you have lacklustre packaging, you only have yourselves to blame. I have one personal tip which cannot be disputed – ban gold foil framing! The French are gradually weaning themselves off this naff detail and while the Spanish are a long way off this goal, we can nip this in the bud today! Ps – while we all languish in our continued self-confinement, I made sure that my trio of wines are all perfect for a smart Sunday lunch, so gather the family around the table and launch into this sensational sparkling, white and red combination. Don’t say I am not thinking of your welfare this month!

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Gail Gardner, MD at Ashling Park, explained that her distinctive ‘copper scratch logo’ gives the labels a contemporary feel and this copper motif is echoed in the tasting room and the luxury lodges on the property as well as on all gift-packaging and communications. It certainly works well and it is definitely memorable and this is a huge plus for this relatively new brand. After all, one of the main issues in the wine world today is standing out from the crowd. While the highlyregarded, award-winning 2013 Cuvée is open, juicy and welcoming on the palate, my pick from this impressive portfolio is the devastating 2014 Blanc de Blancs. Made under the guidance of consultant winemaker Dermot Sugrue, this is a piercingly dry, super-clean and ultra-refined wine. The laser-sharp acidity gives the Ashling Park wines brilliance and élan and this BdeB is sure to bring even more custom to its door.

2014 Ashling Park, Blanc de Blancs, South Downs, Sussex £37.50, reduced to £33.75 each by the case of 6 bottles, www.ashlingpark.co.uk

2019 Lyme Bay, Shoreline, Devon £14.99

www.lymebaywinery.co.uk I must admit that I felt the Lyme Bay labels were somewhat under-designed when I first came across this brand years ago, but they are some of my favourites today. As I have become more familiar with the wines, a sense of the wild Devon coastline and the accompanying cleansing, ozone emanates from these labels. Of course, the airiness and effortless beauty of the artwork on these wines is echoed in the crisp flavours and refreshing signature that their flavours leave on the palate and this is very clever indeed and it cannot be undervalued. The latest release of Shoreline, a heartachingly beautiful Bacchus, Seyval Blanc and Reichensteiner blend, shows exquisite balance. At a tender 11.5% alcohol, this is one of the most haunting and delicious dry white wines in the land and it benefits greatly from a kaleidoscope of discreet aromas and flavours that can only be experienced when you blend these three white grapes with extreme sensitivity.

With one of the country’s most distinctive and most luxurious-feeling label designs, this Pinot sets you up for a great wine long before you even grab hold of a bottle. It is extraordinarily hard to plough an original furrow these days, but to do so with this degree of eye-catching style and instant brand recognition is amazing. While I am not mad about the use of ‘Twenty Eighteen’, preferring the usual numerical vintage format, and the font size which is a little small and hard to read without rotating the bottle under bright light, these are quirks which stay in your mind and force you to handle the merchandise. Of course, once you have gone this far you rarely put the bottle back on the shelf! This wine has improved year on year since the delicious 2014 vintage and this 2018 has a Morey-Saint-Denis perfume coupled to a slender chassis and lashings of crisp minerality. The mid-palate is smoother and not quite as reticent as in previous vintages and this is thanks to the heavenly wild cherry theme and the addition of some suave carpentry.

2018 Gusbourne Pinot Noir, Boot Hill Vineyard, Kent £35.00 www.gusbourne.com

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

EDITOR'S VISIT

“I was broke but delighted!”

Photos: Julia Claxton

The story of Sugrue starts with Dermot Sugrue, an energetic and passionate Irishman with a glint in his eye, a seductive brogue and entertaining craic. Along with co-star Ana Đogić, a feisty Croatian and fellow winemaker, their two vineyards in West Sussex produce the grapes for the signature brand ‘Trouble with Dreams’. These traditional method sparkling wines are lovingly hand-crafted by Dermot and Ana – and understandably have quite a cult following. Dermot grew up in rural County Limerick and discovered the joys of home brewing when he was just 15 years old after local Archdeacon, Rev. Brian Snow, saw his interest and gave him a bottle of elderberry ‘Port’ that he had made himself. Dermot was fascinated and so started making his own country wines. It became an all consuming passion and whilst he was busy

itor

With all the ingredients for an epic blockbuster – passion, romance, sorrow, adventure and adversity – the story of Sugrue South Downs is truly a legend.

The trouble with dreams

Jo Cowdero y

filling his parents’ house with demijohns of all sorts of fermentations, the Reverend noted his profound interest and gave him a copy of Hugh Johnson’s seminal Wine. “It simply blew my mind and I became obsessed with real wine – wine made from grapes,” exclaimed Dermot. “Around this time my mother and I drank a bottle of 1982 Torres Cabernet Sauvignon from Penedes and I had a transcendental experience... I realised just how extraordinary fine wine could be!” Dermot moved to the UK in 1992 to study Environmental Science at the University of East Anglia, as he had no idea that Plumpton College and courses in winemaking existed at that time. After working as a Financial Advisor and spending everything he earned on wine, he visited Bordeaux in 2000. “I fell in love with the

winemaking culture there and was determined to study wine but my French was awful and whilst planning on moving to Australia to study in Adelaide, I heard about Plumpton College in Sussex.” Before studying at Plumpton College, Dermot worked at a winery in Suffolk under Rob Hemphill, whom he describes as “a genius winemaker and inspirational figure.” He also returned to Bordeaux to do the harvest in Pomerol, and to Saint-Julien to work at Chateau Leoville-Barton. Shortly after starting at Plumpton College Dermot saw an advert for Assistant Winemaker at Nyetimber Vineyards. “I immediately made the call and drove straight to the winery to be interviewed whilst helping rack a tank of wine – and then I tasted Nyetimber for the first time – cue another transcendental moment; I knew then that I wanted to make sparkling wine in Sussex!” Exclaimed Dermot. In 2004 Dermot was promoted to Head Winemaker at Nyetimber: “I learnt a great deal from Peter Morgan, the Winemaker, and JeanManuel Jacquinot, the Consultant Winemaker from Champagne, who became my mentor,” he said. A few years later Dermot met Harry and Pip Goring from Wiston Estate and saw the >>

> Ana Đogić, Dermot Sugrue and Tara the dog >>

EDITOR'S VISIT “ZODO, my zero dosage wine, has taken time and a lot of experimentation”

<< enormous potential of their South Downs chalkland site, but managed to squeeze in a vintage in Champagne in 2006. “It was an experience that thoroughly illuminated my understanding of sparkling wine production, an education for me in winemaking technique, culture, tradition and attitude. I still visit Champagne regularly and they are just so fascinated by the ascent of English sparkling wine over the last two decades.” During his last year at Nyetimber in 2006, Dermot was approached by a Monastic Order of Catholic Priests from Storrington in West Sussex, who asked if he could help them plant a small 1 hectare vineyard on a plot of greensand soil, and together they created Storrington Priory Vineyard, which is now 1.6 hectares and planted with 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot noir. However, the birds devastated the first would-be harvest in 2008 – which founded the label ‘The Trouble with Dreams’! “The Trouble with Dreams is a song by American band, The Eels,” explained Dermot. A year later, the birds behaved themselves and the first Sugrue South Downs ‘The Trouble with Dreams’ 2009 was made from Storrington, along with the first Wiston Estate wine. “They were both epic wines, and buyers Rebecca Palmer from Corney and Barrow and Steve Daniel from Hallgarten snapped us up to distribute the wines,” he added. However, 2012 was a disaster and like many English vineyards there were no grapes worth picking. Dermot had a choice: either scrap the project as it was far too small to be economic or take on another, larger, vineyard to supply the Sugrue South Downs brand. “I heard that Mount Harry Vineyard near Lewes, planted by Tim and Alice Renton, was available to lease. It too was planted in 2006 and was an exceptional site, a clay loam over pure chalk, nestled on a south east facing slope right on the South Downs, planted with 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot noir and 20% Meunier. I began managing it in 2013 and that vintage marked the first time the fruit from both vineyards – exactly one marathon, 26.2 miles, apart – was combined to make the 2013 ‘Trouble with Dreams’ and a second, multi-vintage wine, Cuvée Dr Brendan O’Regan,” explained Dermot. The 2013 ‘Trouble with Dreams’ won the Trophy for Best English Wine at the first Independent English Wine Awards and Hugh Johnson

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

himself declared Cuvée Dr Brendan O’Regan the best English fizz he had ever tasted – all Dermot’s hard work and the risk of taking on Mount Harry Vineyard had paid off. “I was broke but delighted!” He smiled. Fast forward to 2018 and a restaurant in Brighton; Ana and Dermot were introduced by a mutual friend. “We had an amazing time and lots of ‘wine geek’ chat,” commented Ana. However, he ‘had me’ immediately he said ‘hello’, in his wonderful Irish accent!” Ana grinned. Ana grew up in Zagreb, Croatia, but her grandparents lived in the wine region of Plesivica, just 40km south of Zagreb. Visits to refill her Dad’s wicker demijohn included stops at friends with vineyards and wine cellars. “We had a blast, running through the vineyards and playing hide and seek in the cellars! But the best part was wine tasting. My parents would taste the wine from the barrel, and I was always allowed to have a small štamperlek, which is like a little glass for schnaps. I was curious even as a child to know the difference between the wines that I tasted.” Ana gained a degree in Horticulture at the University of Zagreb, followed by an MSc in Viticulture and Oenology. “Being young and crazy, I ended up doing vintages in Peru, New Zealand, California and Germany. My first full-time job was in the Austrian region of Kamptal, where I worked on Riesling and Gruner Veltliner. After two years, I got an Assistant Director position in a winery in Burgenland, producing high-end wine from indigenous red grape varieties. That was my last stop before coming here to the UK and meeting Dermot!” said Ana. Ana is currently the winemaker at Plumpton college, covering maternity leave. “I don’t have a lot of time to spend on our Sugrue South Downs brand at the moment, but I am involved in all business plans going forward as well as blending, dosage trials and tastings,” explained Ana.

Making dreams come true

With their combined passion for wine, their knowledge and experience, and the exciting plans for the future, Dermot and Ana’s Sugrue South Downs is a brand to watch. “We would love to open a Sugrue South Downs cellar door –

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just something simple where we could receive small groups and do tastings,” explained Dermot. “In the meantime, the focus is on working as sustainably as possible, managing the vineyards better and improving the wines. There is always room to improve!” He added. “The climate is getting warmer every single year – a frightening pattern in itself – so the opportunities for making better wines continue. We know the terroir is superb; even though we have had vintages to date where we could have made successful still wines, we prefer to focus all our energies on making traditional method fizz, and keep learning.” A project that Dermot has been working on for many years now, is to make a successful zero dosage ‘Brut Nature’ English Sparkling wine. “ZODO, my zero dosage wine, has taken time and a lot of experimentation over the years, but I am now delighted with the results, as this is an incredibly difficult wine style to get right in the UK,” explained Dermot. The stunning label was created by an indigenous Canadian artist friend of his, Don Chretien, and is entitled ‘Waterbeings’. Winemaking is obviously a passion for Dermot and he has an emotional involvement with his wines. Cuvée Dr Brendan O’Regan is a non-vintage wine made only in exceptional years, with reserve wines, in honour of his granduncle, who established the world’s first Duty Free shop at Shannon Airport in 1947. “He was a visionary man whose enterprise and initiative were the first steps in the creation of the global Duty-Free industry we now have today. In partnership with a chef from Northern Ireland, he also invented Irish Coffee!” He exclaimed. Soon to be released is a very special wine, Cuvée Boz Blanc de Blancs 2015, in memory of Dermot’s brother. “Boz was my brother Barry Sugrue, an extraordinary and talented man who passed away aged 39 on 22 Feb 2011. He played a huge role in my life, as we spent all of our childhood together. Cuvee Boz 2015 will be released on the 10th anniversary of his death,” said Dermot.

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Winemaking philosophy

With exceptional vision and a unique winemaking philosophy, Dermot takes risks with the weather at harvest by picking as late as possible to attain optimum maturity. He presses the grapes as gently as possible and knows where to ruthlessly cut the juice. “I then trust the wines to reveal themselves with time. I always use old Burgundy oak, using barrels of different size and age, to promote texture and dimension, and work with the lees,” he added. When asked his top tips for winemaking, Dermot discloses: “Embrace acidity, make reduction your friend, and shake hands with oxidation every now and again. Trust the wines and give them time. Taste constantly. Always do the right thing at the right time, no matter how cold or tired or fed up you may be and they will reward you every time. If in doubt, lean towards less dosage than more and give them time on cork. Taste wines from other producers, and other regions, constantly. Learn from experienced winemakers. I have learned more from winemakers like Peter Hall at Breaky Bottom over the years than I can possibly remember!” Many would say that Dermot has gained a hint of celebrity status and certainly a reputation for winemaking excellence. “I’ve been hugely proud to make the wines of Jenkyn Place, Digby, Black Dog Hill, Ashling Park, East Meon, English Oak, Woodchurch, Southlands Valley and Artelium over the years. I helped establish Henners and Westwell, so I’ve been lucky to gain a huge amount of experience working with so many vineyards for so long.” As well as making wines in England and France, Dermot also had the opportunity to make wine in India. He describes it as, “a fun - and often crazy – experience!” “A highlight for me in 2017 was a tasting of 15 of my wines with JeanBaptiste Lecaillon of Champagne Roederer. It was clear he was seriously impressed with the wines as there is a freshness and purity to our wines which is perhaps becoming more challenging for the Champenois to achieve as warmer year follows warmer year. For many years I have >>

Since 2017 contract winemakers Litmus Wines have been proud to be the sole UK representatives for the Institut Oenologique de Champagne. The IOC have been an integral part of the growth and development of the UK wine scene by providing winemaking services and sharing their wide ranging knowledge and experience with the industry for over quarter of a century. Offering a comprehensive array of wine and cider making biological and non-biological consumables, cold stabilising, tirage and disgorging services, contact Litmus Wines for all your winemaking requirements. Visit at www.litmuswines.com Email to hq@litmuswines.com Phone on 01306 879829

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

The Sugrue South Downs wines currently available: The Trouble with Dreams 2015 60/40 Chard/Pinot Noir The Trouble with Dreams 2017 Magnum The Trouble with Dreams 2010 Magnum Cuvée Dr Brendan O’Regan NV

For release February 2021:

ZODO - Zero Dosage 2014 Cuvée BOZ - Blanc de Blancs 2015

<< worked with the IOC, the Institut Oenlogique de Champagne, for bottling, cold stabilisation and more recently disgorging – they are highly efficient and a pleasure to work with. As our industry develops we need to foster collaboration, remain open-minded and agile and embrace the experience of our neighbours – that has always been my mantra,” professes Dermot. The goal of ‘Trouble with Dreams’ was always to make one wine, explains Dermot, “a Chardonnay-dominant cuvée, that was as precise and pure as possible and given sufficient time in the cellar to reach maturity before release. This is hugely important as a wine style like this, without any Pinot meunier, can be quite austere in it's youth. The wine must be complete and lees aging is a key part of this, it builds texture as does the barrel fermentation. My wines are often notable for their acidity and freshness but when combined with this textural element, this balance is exactly what I am aiming for.”

“The zero-dosage ZODO is an absolute extension of this: extended lees-aging gives a creamy, generous and broadtextured palate, the richness of which does not require dosage. The perception of the acidity is enhanced of course, but the flavours are very true to the vineyard, laid bare if you wish which can only work with a particularly good wine – or else it tastes skeletal and mean.”

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

Winning wines

Sugrue South Downs wines have won many awards, been listed in top restaurants and championed by sommeliers, wine writers and critics – gaining a cult following. The tiny production, averaging only 5,000 bottles per year, has meant the wines are not broadly distributed, but they are exported to Ireland, the US, Sweden, Norway, Switzerland and Italy. “However, a highlight was probably winning WineGB 2020 Boutique Producer of the Year, the same year that Wiston Estate won Winery of the Year (for a second time after winning it in 2018). Also being listed in Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Guide 2020 as the UK’s highest rated wine producer was a special accolade,” he smiles. ‘Trouble with Dreams’ 2014 claimed a Gold medal at the International Wine Challenge 2019, WineGB awards 2020 and Sélections Mondiales des Vins Canada 2019. Included in the long list of wins, the 2010 was given the highest score by Decanter Magazine for an English Sparkling Wine and the 2011 won the Decanter Trophy for Best UK Sparkling. “I knew the Storrington Priory site was very special,” he commented proudly.

Spare time?

Ana admits that working with wine, teaching winemaking, and then coming home to a winemaker can be very intense. “Going for longwalks with Tara helps to forget about wine for a while.” Dermot escapes wine when out on his bike, “I still adore riding on the roads around Sussex and up on the Downs on my mountain bike. It makes me feel like a teenager when I ride my bike, there is nothing quite like the bittersweet mix of endorphins and exhaustion after completing a hard three-hour ride.” Both Ana and Dermot also love cooking and travelling, “I’ve done far more of the former and zero of the latter in the last year so I’m really looking forward to that freedom returning. Visiting other winemaking regions is a constant source of inspiration for me – it reboots my passion for wine and life in fundamental ways,” commented Dermot. Ana introduced me to Austrian Riesling in a big way a few years ago and I just adore it. Maybe with some of the new PIWI varieties coming down the line we can achieve wine styles like this?” He muses. Inspiration also comes from other winemakers in England: “I drank some fantastic skin-contact Ortega from Westwell recently – I think the guys are doing a fantastic job there. Also, Flint from Norfolk – their work with Bacchus is fascinating and Dalwood still whites are stunning,” said Dermot. Even if the climate continues to change Dermot says he will never plant a vineyard in Ireland. “It will always be damp, and windy. There’s a reason we’ve succeeded so much with whiskey and stout – they keep you warm while you make them!”

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SALES AND MARKETING

Fine dining in the vines The Gladwin’s farm-to-fork family business both grows and sources, local Sussex produce for their London restaurant group. Inevitably the business has felt the impact of the pandemic, along with the rest of the hospitality sector. The Gladwin’s farm-to-fork family business has adapted fast to the pandemic and provided online sales and deliveries of their ‘local and wild’ fine food and wine, to meet the culinary and sensory needs of the rising number of discerning and sustainabilityaware customers. Vineyard discovers the Gladwin’s exciting future plans which includes offering unique fine dining in the vines at their Nutbourne Vineyard. The Gladwin family comprises Peter and Bridget and their three sons, Richard, Oliver and Gregory.

Bridget combines managing the vineyard with her work as an artist. Her paintings are featured on the stunning Nutbourne wine labels. Peter is a celebrated chef whose exclusive catering company has provided banquets for royals and he is the author of many beautiful recipe books. Peter loves to welcome visitors to Nutbourne and convey his passion and knowledge to them as tour guide – and is happy to roll up his sleeves to do some hard graft in the vines. Peter is also Vice Chair of the UK wine industry’s trade association, Wines of Great Britain. Richard and Oliver run their four London

> Oliver Gladwin

restaurants; The Shed, in Notting Hill; Rabbit, in Chelsea; Nutbourne, in Battersea; and Sussex in Soho. The restaurants all specialise in seasonal and sustainable Sussex produce and serve the range of Nutbourne wines. Youngest son Gregory is the farmer and rears cattle, pigs and sheep, as well as working in the vineyard. He supports other local farmers by sourcing their produce to supply the restaurants and the Nutbourne farm shop. The family skill-set came about naturally insists Bridget, “we didn’t decide on their careers when they were aged three!”

Plans are now underway to bring this unique combination of family talents back to the delightful ambiance of their Sussex vineyard by offering Fine Dining in the Vines. “There is potential for huge growth in wine tourism in the county – we have the quality, reputation and fabulous locations to make it happen,” commented Peter. The Gladwin family have been taking amazing local produce to their restaurants in London and now see the logic in bringing their critically acclaimed dining experience back to the vineyard in Sussex. “The pandemic brought people out of London to Sussex for the weekends and I think this will continue. In our stunning location overlooking the South Downs, we can offer a spectacular place to dine, great food and wine, combined with vineyard tours and tutored tastings. The subject of food and wine is infinite, there really are no limits, rather like art,” added Peter. “English wines are premium products and intended for fine dining. I don’t think they are the right match for sausage rolls or brownies served in a café,” he smiled. >>

> Peter Gladwin by the winery

> An evening event at Wine Lodge with the windmill behind

> Oliver, Richard and Gregory Gladwin

Photos: Nutbourne Vineyard

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Hedgerow 2018

Chardonnay 2018

From £12.50

From £13.50

Nutty Vintage Brut 2016 From £24.50

Blush 2019

From £12.50

<< It’s very much a family affair, with each member providing their input of hospitality, restaurants, vineyard and countryside to create this exclusive experience. However, to implement their ideas and lead this new and exciting venture, Nutbourne is bringing in wine ‘fanatic’ and restaurateur, Robin Frean and chef, Emma Spofforth to join the team. Set in the beautiful Sussex countryside,

surrounded by wildflowers and unspoilt wild fowl areas, Nutbourne is a boutique vineyard; all the wine is made on-site only from grapes grown on the estate. “We will also be planting our own market garden to supply our new on-site kitchens with home grown vegetables and herbs, together with the meat from our farm,” Peter explained. Guests to Nutbourne can be hosted in a variety of wonderful locations – private dining

“English wines are premium products and intended for fine dining.”

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in the old windmill, which is lit at night and boasts a lovely chill-out area and 360° balcony; or the timber wine lodge nestled within the vines; or for larger groups the beautifully decorated Raj Tent which opens onto a wonderful deck with stunning views over the vineyards to the South Downs. To complete the atmospheric setting there are open outdoor fires, candle lights and even a tractor drawn carriage can be requested for guests’ arrival

> Bridget Gladwin

Sussex Reserve 2018

Nutty "Wild" NV

From £11.80

From £18.00

“Nutbourne is a boutique vineyard, the wine is made on-site only from grapes grown on the estate.”

Pinot Noir 2018 From £18.00

and the vineyard tour. A few lucky visitors to Nutbourne vineyard have already had a chance to experience the pop-up restaurants. “We held a few trials in 2019 which were a lot of fun and a great success. This inspired us to plan more as soon as the restrictions are lifted,” Peter commented. During lockdown the Gladwin restaurants have continued to be busy delivering boxes of gastronomic delights such as beef wellington,

game terrines and crab thermidor, bringing local and wild ingredients sourced from the Sussex farm, along with wine from Nutbourne vineyard, direct to London homes. They are also handling the production for a new specialist plant-based service, supplying a nutritious and delicious fresh food range at a time when it has become important to support local producers, and to provide seasonal and sustainable fresh produce. “People are increasingly interested

in where their food comes from, sustainability and no food wastage,” commented Peter. Our moto is “what grows together goes together,” he added. “This summer we will be launching a new naturally low alcohol wine, called Ten.Five. It is a still wine made from our chardonnay, unoaked, light and delicate without any chapitilisation at only 10.5% alcohol,” said Peter.

> Pop up in the Wine Lodge

> Candied beets, horseradish cream, Discovery apples, toasted walnuts and nasturtium leaves from The Shed garden

> Peter Gladwin picking herbs

> Carrots and pesto

> Oliver Gladwin at pop up BBQ

GRAPE GROWING

Keeping the wolf from the door Luke Wolfe has established and managed hundreds of acres of vineyards, harvested thousands of tonnes of grapes and has now formed his own business, Agro-Pro, to use this experience to help other growers. Whether you are a new or established vineyard, a small or large producer, Vineyard finds out that there’s always a need for Agro-Pro’s support – and some of Luke’s business wisdom. Luke Wolfe’s fascination with wine started when he was young and he was, “always jealous of the stories of French children being allowed to drink wine with water at dinner.” His career initially took him into finance and insurance but he went to wine tastings and would go on wine tours whenever he could. “The dream was to make some money and retire in the south of France with my own vineyard making my own wine!” He smiled.

A commercial view

After being made redundant, Luke decided to take six months off to try and accelerate his retirement dream and start working in wine. “I enrolled on a WSET course and by chance saw that Plumpton college offered a winemaking and viticulture course. “I visited Plumpton and was amazed by what I saw, it was exactly what I wanted to do. After interviews and completing further wine qualifications I was accepted onto the course and achieved a first-class

“The drive to improve eﬃciency without compromising quality was the biggest challenge.”

honours degree in 2012. Luke had his own mortgage and insurance business, which he sold before starting his career in wine production. “My financial background has been hugely beneficial and given me valuable experience in running a business. It has also made me slightly obsessive about data; how long things take to do, how much tasks cost, where the variables are etc. However, this enables me to have a full understanding of the logistics and financial implications involved in establishing and managing vineyards.” A spell in his youth with his family’s building firm, labouring and hod carrying, has put Luke in good stead for some of the back-breaking vineyard work, such as pruning and bud rubbing in tough weather conditions. “I have always tried to lead by example and believe you should know and understand the job your team are being asked to do – and never ask someone to do something you wouldn’t do yourself.” Another mantra of Luke’s is, “if you don’t know how to do something then go and learn from the people that do.”

Wine is made in the vineyard

Luke’s viticultural career started at Plumpton College in 2009 and he has now been working in wine production for just over 11 years. During his studies he was very much focused on being a winemaker and clocked up vintages in New Zealand, France, England and California in this time. “This increased my winemaking knowledge – yet knowing that all good wines are made in the vineyard – I made sure I didn’t neglect the vineyard side of wine production. After a couple of further vintages, I realised there were more opportunities within viticulture and that I actually enjoyed working outside more than cleaning tanks in a winery.” After a few years of working freelance Luke was employed by Chapel Down as part of the vineyard management team. “Chapel Down was a fantastic experience for me, the company was rapidly expanding, and I was helping establish new vineyards, as well as managing their existing vineyards. The drive to improve efficiency without compromising quality was the biggest challenge – and the most rewarding. I learnt a lot in my years at Chapel Down and I’ll always be grateful for working with such a dedicated team and will always remember the successes we shared,” commented Luke.

Agro-Pro’s services

Luke left Chapel Down to set up Agro-Pro in March 2020, to use his knowledge and experience gained over many years to fill a gap in the services available to help both new and existing vineyards. “Whether you’re a small or large producer, there’s always a need for support to overcome difficult, unforeseen periods.”

New vineyards

The main focus of Agro-Pro’s business is to establish vineyards, taking their owners through from planting to their first harvest. “I guide clients into deciding what they want to achieve and crafting their own ideals rather than following everyone else. The first and most important decision is to select a suitable site and I can offer an impartial audit for clients, their directors or shareholders. After planning and planting, we get vineyards up and running >> in their first three years so that they are properly established. If needed,

Top tips for a successful vineyard Luke has plenty of tips for running a successful vineyard and regularly writes a blog for the Agro-Pro website: www.agro-pro.co.uk ◆ Have a plan. It's ok if the plan evolves and changes but be clear about what you want to do and what you are trying to achieve not just now but in 10 or 20 years’ time. ◆ Speak to other growers and share your experiences good and bad. It’s a small industry and we should work in a more collective way to help solve the issues we as growers are experiencing. ◆ Don’t get greedy with yields. There is nothing worse than watching a large crop struggling to ripen in late October. Tonnes per hectare mean nothing if the quality is poor – or it has cost thousands of pounds per tonne to grow. ◆ Don’t ignore soil health. It’s important to understand how our interactions with soil greatly influence the outcome of our crop and the longevity of our vineyards. At the very least always put back what you have taken out. ◆ Keep on top of the finances. Costs can easily escalate, and this greatly affects the price per tonne. ◆ Be adaptable and play the percentages. Just because you did a task in a particular way last year it doesn’t mean you should do the same the following year. Work back from a point of strength, you can always remove shoots and fruit mid-season, but you can’t stick them back on. ◆ Walk your vineyards regularly; boots and eyes are the most valuable tools a vineyard manager has!

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GRAPE GROWING << we can then manage vineyards that are too small to justify employing a vineyard manager or provide temporary vineyard management.” Luke also offers a mentoring service, where he supports the management of a vineyard in partnership with a staff member. “This is really useful for someone who is studying viticulture or who has transferable skills but is new to growing vines, as it helps them make the best viticulture decisions and understand the implications of such decisions.”

Established vineyards

Luke sees Agro-Pro as a service that can, “fill in the gaps for growers to help them get the basics right, especially at peak times when they can be spread so thin. I always offer a free consultation to determine if I can help.” As well as at peak times, established vineyards often have occasional requirements for expertise and support during expansion, change, or with new staff – and Agro-Pro is able to provide flexible services to assist. “One of my popular services is practical sessions on specific vineyard tasks such as pruning or an area of viticulture such as pest and disease management.” Established growers who sell their fruit are often looking at increasing quality to get a higher price per tonne. “Also many growers are keen to review or benchmark their practices in order to reduce costs and achieve better margins,“ explained Luke. Working with organic and conventional growers, Luke is always interested to get involved with any viticulture research or trials. “To support vineyard managers I’m able to setup, monitor and report on specific vineyard trials a grower may want to evoke.”

Professional relationships

As the UK wine production industry is relatively small Luke finds there is a real advantage in working closely with such a collaborative community and says: “I always want to give the best impartial advice possible, so I choose to work with

> Luke Wolfe

other professionals to deliver what the client needs. I have relationships with contractors and suppliers in the UK and Europe and access to other consultants worldwide.”

Keeping costs under control

Agro-Pro’s approach to vineyard management is to set up the vineyard in the right way so that it can be run efficiently ensuring that all tasks are timed and carried out correctly and that yields and quality are increased appropriately to reach their potential. “If you get the basics wrong it will cost you at some point,” exclaims Luke. “I only take on a project if I feel I can add value and save a client money, short or long-term,” he added. In an emerging wine region, there is a fine line between innovation and making a costly mistake explains Luke. “Agro-Pro aims to help clients make calculated innovative choices based on experience and sound data – this should be encouraged as it allows our industry to continue to move forward.”

Opportunities and challenges

Luke sees that one of the challenges for the UK wine production industry is the shortage of qualified vineyard personnel that will be needed as the industry continues to grow. “I think there are some excellent opportunities for anyone who wants to get involved in vineyard work. It’s hard work that doesn’t enjoy all of the glamour and plaudits that the winemakers receive, but it’s incredibly rewarding.” A recent challenge that Luke sees the industry facing is labour cost and availability. “I’m all for embracing mechanisation, but there are some jobs that need to be done by hand and typically we all need the same workers at the same time. We are also competing with other fruit and vegetable producers, all sourcing labour from a dwindling post-Brexit supply.” Sparkling wines have been leading production for many years but Luke

Whitewolfe Wine Estate is a self-funded joint venture between Luke and his best friend and fellow Plumpton College wine graduate, Clare Whitehead. “We both have a similar ethos regarding wine and grape growing which is to produce the highest quality fruit and prove we can do this in the most sustainable and efficient way. So we put our money where our mouth is and planted in 2020. The vineyard is planted with 25 acres of Chardonnay in the well known high quality area of Kits Coty in Kent. We will make some different wines as well as sell grapes to some of the top producers in the UK. We are already seeing demand for the fruit which is great. This, we think, is because the producers know the area and its reputation and combined with our knowledge of growing high-quality fruit, it means they will be able to ensure excellent quality Chardonnay for their most premium wines. Whitewolfe is proud to be a founding member of Sustainable Wines of Great Britain, becoming accredited in 2020. The vineyard is very much my classroom and gives me the opportunity to continue learning and improve upon what I do,” concluded Luke.

VINEYARD MANAGEMENT AND CONSULTANCY

Practical solutions for new and established vineyards • • • • • • • • •

Services we offer:

Vineyard Planning & Design Planting & Establishment Vineyard Management Training & Mentoring Benchmarking & Budgeting Independent Site Audits Yield Management & Forecasting Harvest Logistics Specific Trials & Projects

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sees there is an opportunity to create more still wines and also to explore different methods to make sparkling wines. “I know this isn’t necessarily a popular view and many producers would prefer the super-premium traditional method image but the super-premium market is quite small. As our industry continues to grow we need to be able to offer a range of wine styles accessible to larger markets at variable price points.” As climate change continues and the success of English wine grows, Luke believes that there will be more international wine producers establishing themselves in the UK. “I also think the negotiant model of buying in grapes will become more common. I believe there is and always will be a good market for good quality grapes.”

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GRAPE GROWING

Wild about weeds? Most vineyard managers in the UK when asked what is one of their biggest challenges will have a strong four-letter word reply – weeds! Vineyard finds out if vines are happy sharing their space with weeds, and if not, how can weeds be controlled. Weed management is generally considered one of the most challenging vineyard tasks. In the UK weeds and cover crops tend to grow continuously in our mostly damp climate whereas in many wine regions in Europe, and around the world, they die back during the summer due to the drier conditions. Herbicide options are few and becoming less acceptable and mechanical options are not always straightforward. Choosing a suitable method is dependent on many factors such as soil conditions, soil type and weed cover.

Ignore the weeds?

Vineyards in the UK are not generally short of water and are often planted on fertile soils – so is it possible just to leave the weeds in the under-vine area and tolerate a scruffy looking vineyard? This was the topic for a recent research project carried out at the NIAB-EMR plant research centre at East

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Malling, in Kent. The project, entitled IWMPRAISE, was funded by the EU’s Horizon research and innovation programme and initially led by Dr Julien Lecourt. Trials over several years looked at the impact of weed control on the yield and quality of the crop from their experimental vineyard. The trial used two different types of mechanical weeders and an herbicide treatment, in the under-vine area. The results were then compared with the untreated control area. The study measured canopy growth and the concentration of different leaf pigments, such as chlorophyll, to give an indication of the nutrient status of the vines during the growing season. Speaking at a WineGB webinar, Dr Julien Lecourt presented the research findings, with data and photographic evidence. It showed that the vines in the untreated trial, where the weeds were not controlled in the under-vine area, had reduced vigour and yield, whereas the vines where the weeds were controlled had more inflorescences per vine, an indication of yield. The results did not vary significantly with the different

methods of control – mechanical or herbicide. Julien explained that weeding also reduces frost risk, lowers humidity and therefore reduces both disease pressure and competition for nutrients. It also “looks good, as the vineyard is a shop window for the wines!” The majority of the methods for under-vine weeding are mechanical and tractor mounted, with options for different situations, size of vineyard and budget. Some only remove the above ground part of the weed, others cut the weed’s roots below the soil surface. Mulching is another method of supressing weed growth. There are also a few more unusual options including, flames, steam, sheep, geese and robots!

Mechanical weeders

Mechanical weeders cultivate the area under-vine with specialist equipment that removes the weeds but does not damage the vine. With most methods experienced operators can clean up the weeds fairly quickly. However timing of mechanical weed control is crucial, in terms of the weather conditions, the soil conditions and the development of the weeds. Most work by cultivation aims to damage or bury the weeds or disrupt their growth but there can also be some disruption to the soil structure and to soil organisms. Mowing keeps the weeds and cover crops under control and specialist equipment allows the inter-vine area to be mown. It is a relatively fast operation, there is minimal soil disturbance, but frequent tractor passes can cause soil compaction. The weeds are not killed so, depending on the weather conditions, will be back again in a few weeks. If weeds have become a problem or too high, N P Seymour recommends the Clemens Multi-clean. Known for its ability to take weeds back to ground level, made possible due to the >>

> Petalmatic result one side only > Rollhacke

> Petalmatic rotating head plus soil deflector

> Rotating three blade Starmatic

Photo: Duncan McNeil

> Rollhacke

> Skimmer plus cutmatic blade

<< mulching brush which effectively removes the shoots and at the same time control weeds in the undervine area without interfering with the soil structure. The Multiclean is particularly low in vibration and has extremely robust and smooth strings, which are gentle on the vines. The Boisselet inter-vine weeder is a flexible modular system, whereby different attachments can be fitted to the frame, to suit the situation. These can be disc weeders, along with strimmers and inter-vine mowers. “With light soil you may not want to go too deep so the simple blade will work well. If you don’t want to disturb the soil you can just use the strimmer but as the roots are not removed the weeds will grow back – so I do usually recommend some cultivation,” explained David Sayell of Vitifruit Equipment. The Rollhacke, from Clemens, is a disc weeder and can be adjusted for depth and angle to suit the situation and soil type. It can be fitted single or double sided and can also be used in combination with a finger weeder and blade. Duncan McNeill, from McNeill Vineyard Management has now moved away from herbicides explaining that he wants “to perfect my management methods and be ready for when herbicides are not an option.” Duncan currently uses three or four different under-vine mechanical weeding devices depending on the soil conditions. “Unfortunately, there isn’t one tool that works all the time,” said Duncan. “I use a disc weeder, which is like the Rollhacke, but is single, rather than a double star-wheel, as I find it more adjustable, and I can drive it at speed covering the vineyard area more quickly. The Rollhacke with the finger weeder combination is good as long as the soil is not too moist, or heavy clay, otherwise both pieces of equipment can clog. The finger weeder is also good for knocking back the ridge that sometimes builds up under the row with the Rollhacke. I also occasionally use a strimmer, similar to the Multi-clean, to bud rub and knock back weeds.” Along with weed control Duncan McNeill is finding that another benefit of under-vine cultivation it that it helps to preserve sub-soil moisture in drier years. “The top 5cm of soil will dry out, as it is being worked, but this then forms a barrier to prevent further evaporation by closing off the capillary tubes in the soil profile – essentially sealing in the moisture. In my region, Essex, we have had three dry summers in a row and where I have carried out under-vine weeding, I have seen less water stress. It seems counter intuitive, but it is something I learnt in Germany. Also I found, where I had used the strimmer and not cultivated, the green cover remaining under the vines was pulling moisture from the soil and causing water stress. This delayed ripening and we had poor leaf condition as well as poor canes at pruning.” Duncan is not normally a fan of cultivation but explains that some light cultivation in the under-vine area is useful, “to help mineralise nutrients to make them more available and introduce oxygen.” Photo: Martin Apps

> The difference in canopy between the row with weed control (left) compared to no weed control (right) ©NIAB-EMR

Mulching

Mulch inhibits weed growth and germination of weed seeds by forming a barrier and also blocking sunlight. Mulch is commonly green waste but can be other organic material, such as wood chips, or grape marc. Alternative mulches can be made from plastics. Mulches, such as green waste can be a great source of nutrients and add organic matter to the soil but this also means they are a great source of nutrients and a perfect seed-bed for weeds. If the mulch is spread too thin the weeds will not be supressed. Spreading of mulches is also bulky, time consuming and therefore expensive. Synthetic weed mats are effective at suppressing weeds as are black plastics but the disposal of these materials needs careful consideration as it could have an environmental impact. The black plastic tears eventually, with pieces being carried by the wind to get caught in hedgerows – earning the nickname ‘witches knickers’!

The more unusual options

Weed control using steam involves a tractor or trail mounted steam generator that delivers steam through nozzles, direct to the weeds – damaging the plant tissue. One of the benefits is that this does not disturb the soil or damage soil organisms, but it does come with a high energy cost. “Another problem with the steam system is that only the above ground part of the weeds is affected; the plant is not killed. Two or three weeks later there is as much weed growth as before,” exclaimed David Sayell. Sheep are an increasing, and pleasant sight, in a winter vineyard. Winter grazing reduces the weeds, but sheep need to be removed before bud burst so that they do not eat the vine shoots. One benefit of grazing is that useful nutrient recycling occurs with their manure. Geese can be used similarly, but any livestock needs to be fenced and managed. Some of the factors to consider when deciding on which weed management methods or which combination of methods to adopt include assessing the economic impact of loss of yield from weeds, along with understanding their contribution to biodiversity and soil health, their improvement of soil structure and addition of organic matter and nutrients. The decision on weed control may be influenced by the age of the vines, as young vines may be affected by competition from weeds, whereas older vines have a larger root system. Manually pulling out the weeds or hoeing may not be an attractive option, but can be a cheaper method in a small vineyard. This method also has little environmental impact, avoids compaction and is good for fitness. The power-assisted hand hoe from Pelenc may be the perfect solution in a smaller vineyard.

As the 2021 season begins so do thoughts on nutrition. Vines require an adequate and balanced supply of nutrients throughout the season, for healthy growth and to generate maximum performance. Each season new challenges are highlighted and 2020 saw higher than average rainfall which depleted many soils of vital nutrients. Also, we experienced prolonged periods of no rain resulting in reduced infiltration and aeration with increased salt accumulation, both of which can negatively impact vine crop growth and health. It will therefore be important to ensure that for 2021 the soil is sufficient in nutrients, organic matter, biology, and carbon. Having an understanding of essential vine crop nutrients, and application, in the way that each specific nutrient behaves is crucial. Soil analysis helps identify potential “hidden hungers” as early as possible and provides the greatest opportunity to take corrective action. From soil to shoot – ‘Sufficiency avoids Deficiency’ highlights this as a way to maximise the full potential and quality of a vine crop. Good soil structure is critical for healthy plant growth and is created when primary soil particles are held together by various soil-stabilising agents to form larger aggregates. These aggregates define the small and large pore spaces that are essential for good infiltration and drainage, as

well as the correct balance of water and air. Over time, heavy rain or continual irrigation water, traffic, cultivation and long term inorganic mulches can all weaken or destroy aggregation. In the 2019 season, Engage Agro Europe introduced the now recognised and highly respected product, SION®, an innovative silicon technology for professional growers. Sion’s nutrient solution contains a unique form of silicon – mono-silicic acid. This is highly important as it is proven to be the only form of silicon available to the grapevines via foliar or root application. So why are silicon levels so important to vineyard soil? Silicon naturally reduces the impact of both abiotic and biotic stress by creating a silica cellulose support framework within the plant thereby keeping the nutrient vascular system open. This builds a thicker leaf cuticle which significantly limits susceptibility to both pathogenic pressure and insect predation. Trials across Europe have shown that increased silicon levels in vine tissues will reduce powdery mildew pressure, so it represents an essential component of a nutrient programme designed to offer grapevines a greater level of support during times of stress. Silicon also has significant growth benefits as all cells are built using silicon in conjunction with calcium. Optimal levels of silicon increases fruit potential, size and fill which directly impacts on overall yield. A more natural holistic approach to crop

The importance of vine soil management

M i ke S tok

growth principles can also be used to encourage healthier more productive carbon rich soils too. A superior soil structure has great aggregate stability, strong biomass and active soil microflora. These factors often go out of balance due to excess rainfall, lack of organic matter, over use of herbicides and continual use of inorganic fertilisers, so it is important to address this on an annual basis. CYPHER™ from Engage Agro used in a regular programme is proven to maintain these factors by supplying an energy food source for soil microbes present in the root zone whilst also improving the solubility of calcium and its bonded anions of phosphate or sulphate, so that they become incorporated into the soil with greater ease. All salt and nutrient movement and availability through the soil improves as does uptake efficiency. All of these factors are a requirement for a healthy crop. Cypher is a modified organic acid blend derived from the plant active portions of lignin and leonardite ore. It is a patented product designed to condition soils which have become compacted or overloaded in bonded salts. Cypher can be applied alone or can be formulated with basic and acidic fertilisers. As a product from nature, Cypher meets all the requirements for sustainable agriculture and offers viticulturists the “natural” way to improve soil health and productivity.

 www.engageagroeurope.com paper-plane info@engage-agro.com  01257 226590

AGRONOMY

Ed B

Agronomy diary

ro n

Delving beneath the surface of vineyard success. Any vineyard needs healthy soil to support productive, uniform vines, but what constitutes “healthy soil” and how do you measure it? Hutchinsons bioagriecologist Ed Brown explains. Soil is made up of physical, biological and chemical properties. The status of each of these components and the interactions between them is what determines whether soil is “healthy” or not. Physical properties, such as texture (measured by the proportion of sand, silt and clay particles) and organic matter content for example, help determine soil structure and affect the movement of air, water and roots through the soil, plus its ability to retain nutrients and support soil biology. Chemical and biological components, including pH, microbial activity and the amount of “active carbon” (carbon readily available as food for microbes), are also heavily interlinked and greatly influence organic matter breakdown, natural structuring and nutrient availability. With such an array of interdependent factors to consider, soil health can be hard to quantify. Simple indicators, such as earthworm activity, standard soil tests, identifying drainage problems

or variations in crop/root growth offer a useful starting point but a detailed soil assessment adds far greater precision providing a baseline soil status to work from and measure results against. Hutchinsons has conducted Healthy Soils audits at several vineyards, often with different business approaches, but sharing a common interest in sustainable soil management. Two recent examples include Pattingham Vineyard, a conventional vineyard on lighter soil in Shropshire, and Hamstreet Wines in Kent, a heavier soil type, converting to organic, with a big focus on biodynamic, regenerative production. Both want to establish a baseline of current soil health, from which future management can be planned to help optimise vineyard productivity. The Healthy Soils assessment incorporates several key tasks: 1. Assess soil texture and identify variations across the site, using the UK Soil Observatory website (www.ukso.org), to highlight individual soil zones 2. Take soil core samples from each zone at 15cm and 30cm deep, which are sent for comprehensive lab analysis of physical, chemical and biological properties, including:

> Hamstreet cover crop

◆ Macro nutrients split into total and available (kg/ha), and trace elements in mg/l. (Index figures for P, K and Mg are also given for reference) ◆ Organic matter and active carbon ◆ pH and buffer pH ◆ Bulk density ◆ Cation Exchange Capacity ◆ Biological properties (e.g. C:N ratio, microbial biomass) 3. Conduct a water infiltration test 4. A Visual Evaluation of Soil Structure (VESS test) 5. Assess key organisms and earthworms The audit at Pattingham Vineyard found that while soil was in generally good condition, the light, sandy texture inherently meant extra focus was needed on improving nutrient retention, possibly using inter-row cover crops and mulches. This will be supported with Novacrop sap analysis through the season to check nutrient levels and address any potential deficiencies. Conversely, the focus at Hamstreet Wines is on improving structure to aid natural drainage and ensuring nutrients held within the soil get into the crop when needed via a healthy root system. The team at this site is already trying inter-row cover cropping with an organic herbal ley mix to build root diversity, add organic matter, suppress weeds and build mycorrhizal activity in the soil. The team is also looking at making compost using the increasingly popular Johnson–Su Composting Bioreactor, providing a source of organic matter and beneficial bacteria and fungi. As US regenerative farming consultant John Kempf’s “plant health pyramid” suggests, improving the many different “layers” of soil health can ultimately boost a plant’s immunity to soil and airborne pathogens, give more resistance to insects and improve fruit quality, so should be a win-win. Soils assessments are generally best done when soil is moist, not saturated, and warm enough for biology to be active, so spring is an ideal time. Once a baseline has been established and a management strategy put in place regular monitoring is essential. That should include frequent test digs throughout the year to check what’s going on beneath the surface, as well as annual infiltration tests and worm counts, supported by more detailed soil testing every three years.

 www.hlhltd.co.uk paper-plane information@hlhltd.co.uk  01945 461177 F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

Joel Jor ge en ns

The vine post Reviewing frost protection analysis. As we approach the end of another viticultural season, now is the time to reflect on the past years and review any insights into your individual vineyard’s characteristics and foibles. The beauty of viticulture is that every site, every block and every vine is unique. With these differences we are able to blend wines of extraordinary depth and complexity, tailoring each parcel of grapes to our requirements. However, in order to fully understand and appreciate the intricacies of each area, it is important to monitor many facets, including but not limited to: the microclimate, growing degree days, (GDDs) and level of rainfall. Every vineyard should have a weather station installed to collect meteorological data and these figures should be regularly analysed. Vine-Works have worked closely with Trak365 for many years and continue to be impressed with the quality and quantity of data attained in the Trak365 weather station. As well as having a main hub, Trak365 utilise multiple wireless endpoint sensors which can be distributed evenly throughout your vineyard and tailored to focus on any problem areas. Collecting a wide spread of data creates a comprehensive overview of your entire site, allowing analysis not just for frost protection, but also disease prevention. In a study at Albury Vineyard, Trak365 observe that “knowing the temperature and humidity throughout the year is also important as temperature affects the growing time for the vines on a daily basis and humidity/temperature combinations can be indicators for potential outbreaks of fungal or insect infestation. Other factors, such as sunlight hours and wind speed and direction also provide input in determining the overall quality of the harvest, which is currently provided by the weather station, the biology of the soil and blended with the more granular temperature/humidity measurements.” The endpoint sensors are small and compact which means they can be easily installed anywhere in the vineyard and are not at risk of being accidentally destroyed by passing tractors or trimmers. If positioned correctly, the endpoints reflect true data, showing exactly what your canopy is experiencing. As well as viewing real-time data, the Trak365 weather station securely stores all your vineyard’s information. Having access to historical data is especially

useful for noticing trends occurring in specific areas, (and for future owners should you ever decide to sell). Regularly analysing the data can ensure you optimise your vineyard’s potential and treat each area accurately and efficiently. During those crucial potentially frosty nights, Trak365 puts your mind at rest as the endpoints continuously update the weather station with data. You can view this live data on their cloud-based platform and set SMS/email alerts for specific changes in temperature/humidity. Often these can occur in areas of the vineyard you may not immediately consider at possible risk. James Trott at Dillions Vineyard uses Trak365 to gain accurate, granular weather data to help focus his frost protection programme on the coldest parts of the vineyard. Knowing in advance where to place his bougies enables James to save time and money and optimise the life-span of the bougies. Once James’ bougies have been lit, he can continue to monitor the Trak365 platform and make improvements instantly. You can literally see the vineyard warming up which provides much needed reassurance. When initially calibrating your weather station, you can program parameters so the endpoints refresh their data every few seconds, minutes or hours. For much of the year, you won’t require a to-the-minute live feed, however during frost risk periods these are essential. The Trak365 weather station can automatically increase its refresh rate when a specified temperature is recorded. This is one less thing for you to worry about! For those looking for a cost-effective, more environmental and sustainable approach to frost protection and disease management, Trak365 are the go-to for granular data collection. Excitingly, in the future Trak365 will be collaborating with VidaCycle who will be incorporating the data into their Sectormentor app and giving insights into the data’s interpretation. Eventually we’ll be able to predict accurate harvest dates!

 www.vine-works.com paper-plane sales@vine-works.com  01273 891777

Representing you Working in partnership with Vineyard magazine for a developing UK wine industry. WineGB is the national trade body representing the vine growers and winemakers of Great Britain from the largest producers to small hobbyists. Our members work together with the organisation to develop strategy, expertise and marketing opportunities for long-term, sustainable success.

Domestic tourists forecast to spend £37.6bn on leisure day trips in 2021 The twists and turns of the still ongoing Covid-19 pandemic have caused a seismic shift in UK wine tourism. Through three national lockdowns, the easing of restrictions, and tier systems the vineyards and wineries normally open to the public have spent the last 12 months frantically trying to adapt their offerings and facilities to best serve customers. Soaring e-commerce sales may have slightly softened the blow, but there is no doubt that the cancellation of tours and events, the closure of cellar doors, onsite cafés, restaurants and accommodation has had a huge impact on revenue. At the time of writing, another national lockdown is in force, and while vaccines are now being rolled out, there is still no clear timeframe on how long it will be before we all return to ‘normal’. Nevertheless, tourism is still a vital part of the

UK wine industry and one which will continue to grow and thrive this year. Looking at figures from 2019, our industry survey results showed that on average, vineyards and wineries in the UK receive 4,449 monthly visitors, 83% of which are domestic tourists looking for exciting experiences and great days out. According to VisitBritain’s annual tourism forecast, the UK will hopefully see a recovery of domestic tourism spending in 2021, with the predicted figures suggesting that spending will be up 82% compared to 2020. This value of around £51.6bn, includes £37.6bn which is earmarked solely for leisure day trip spending, on activities such as vineyard visits and tours. VisitBritain’s forecast is based on the assumption that there will be a slow recovery in early 2021, before a step change in the spring as restrictions ease and confidence returns, followed by a gradual recovery throughout the rest of the year and beyond. To help producers tap into this domestic market and get ahead of the game the next WineGB conference will be focused on tourism. Held from 10am till 12pm on 2, 3 and 4 March, the conference will be chaired by Chapel Down’s Mark

> Wine tasting at Chapel Down

If you are interested in wine production in the UK find out more about WineGB and join us. Visit our website www.winegb.co.uk

JA N UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

Harvey, chair of the WineGB Tourism Working Group. A top line up of speakers has been organised from the UK’s regional vineyard clusters. Hosting the conference on Zoom has also allowed us to attract overseas speakers. Delegates will be able to hear from experts, experienced practitioners, and those involved in wine tourism operations in established wine regions including South Africa and Australia. Over the three days the conference will cover topics including the changing landscape of wine tourism, the importance of regional coordination, and the excellence of the experience. The conference is open to everyone – whether you are just starting or have a well-established tourism offering. Early Bird prices are available and there is a discounted price for WineGB members.

For more information and tickets, head to www.winegb.co.uk

Sharing stories on social media

We have some exciting social media campaigns organised over the coming year, which we would like to encourage all readers to get involved in. ◆ First up, to send some Valentine’s Day cheer, we want to share people’s stories of when and where they fell in love with wine for the first time. Please share with us on our social channels by using the hashtag #winemyheartaway and don’t forget to tag WineGB. Look out for other social media campaigns in the coming weeks:

Find us on:

Instagram-Square @winegb Facebook-square @WineGB TWITTER@Wine_GB ◆ St David’s Day – 1 March – celebrating all things Welsh wine. ◆ International Women’s Day – 8 March – highlighting the inspiring women working in the many areas of the wine trade and industry.

DATES FOR THE DIARY February 4: 6pm Running a Successful Wine Club webinar February 11: 11am Online legal Q&A webinar with Paris Smith February 18: 6pm Pruning Question Time Live webinar February 25: 6pm Managing SO2 and wine health webinar March 4: 6pm Preparation for still wine bottling webinar

Sustainability scheme success

Having launched back in February 2020 the SWGB scheme has had a productive first year. Many of its 30 founder members, who represent 40% of the UK’s vineyard area and have a production capability of around 6.8m bottles, underwent their first audits to gain their Sustainable Wines of Great Britain (SWGB) certification. To gain accreditation, these standard-bearers of WineGB’s environmental sustainability scheme have undergone an annual self-evaluation to monitor progress against guidelines. Upon joining, then every three years, each self-evaluation score is checked and verified by independent auditors, the environmental consultancy Ricardo PLC. The first wines to bear the full status will come from the 2020 harvest when accredited producers are permitted to include the certification mark on their labels. Leading retailers Marks & Spencer and Waitrose, representatives of whom sit on the SWGB working group alongside grape growers and winemakers, are backing this initiative and helping to support the wines when they are released.

SWGB Accredited Members ◆ Chilworth Manor, vineyard ◆ Camel Valley, vineyard and winery ◆ Albury Organic Estate, vineyard ◆ Easing Hill, vineyard ◆ Defined Wine, winery ◆ High Clandon Estate, vineyard ◆ Three Choirs, vineyard and winery ◆ Venn Valley, vineyard ◆ Nyetimber, vineyard and winery

◆ Hush Heath Estate, vineyard ◆ Yotes Court, vineyard ◆ Grange Estate, vineyard ◆ Bee Tree Vineyard (Vine-Works), vineyard ◆ Preston Wine Partnership, vineyard ◆ Clayton Hills, vineyard ◆ Exton Park, vineyard ◆ Henners, vineyard and winery ◆ Roebuck Estates, vineyard ◆ White Wolfe, vineyard ◆ Gusbourne Estate, vineyard and winery

March 11: 11am Employment webinar with Paris Smith March 18: 6pm Export Introduction webinar March 18: 11am R&D tax credits webinar with Paris Smith and Carpenter Box

There has never been a better time to join the industry’s leading trade body, Wines of Great Britain. Contact office@winegb.co.uk today to find out how WineGB can help you achieve your 2021 goals while also strengthening and furthering our entire sector's growth.

JOIN WINEGB

 01858 467792 paper-plane office@winegb.co.uk  www.WineGB.co.uk F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

WINEMAKING

Earth filtration RIP? What are the alternatives? Filtration using diatomaceous earth has been a bastion for many wineries in the UK and around the world for decades. It has relatively low capital costs and running costs, does the job – and at a fairly high flow-rate – is gentle on the wines and pretty forgiving. Vineyard asks if the earth filter still has a place in a modern winery? If not, why not? And what are the alternatives? Filtration is an important winemaking tool that is used to clarify wines and ensure that

> Loading the earth filter

they are microbiologically stable to avoid the risk of re-fermentation and spoilage in bottle. However, there are now countless different filtration methods available, so how does a winemaker decide which filtration tools best suit the wineries production scale and budget? As with most winemaking questions the answer is usually, and frustratingly, ‘it depends’. There are many considerations, including the impact on the environment. Filtration technology is constantly evolving

and past criticisms that some methods result in flavour losses or strip colour are now generally unfounded. So, with a range of alternatives, should earth filtration still have a place in a winery? Some of the reported disadvantages of earth filtration are that the handling of the dry earth can be considered a health hazard, the disposal of the waste earth post-filtration has an environmental impact, that manual requirements are high as an earth filter is quite complex to operate, it is easy to make mistakes and the

WINEMAKING cleaning is also slow. In addition, wine losses are often reported to be relatively high on small volumes compared to other filtration methods. However, earth filtration has a higher dirt holding capacity than other forms of filtration and a larger area of media compared to, for example, cellulose-based sheet filters. Using sheet filters the flow rate will start high but drop off. However with an earth filter it remains constant and it is possible to get relatively high flow rates. “Wine filtering is not like filtering through a sieve, as the filter method and media uses the electrostatic charge on particles to remove them from the wine,” explained Sam Lindo, from Camel Valley in Cornwall, speaking at a recent WineGB webinar. “At Camel Valley we have now used just about all types of filtration. We started with a sheet filter, have used diatomaceous earth

filters, rotary drum vacuum filters and now have a new cross-flow filter, as well as a membrane filter,” Sam added. “We have moved to cross flow filtration as I was unhappy with the dust from the diatomaceous earth, as without sufficient safety information I don’t feel I can trust the product. I wouldn’t want to use it, so wouldn’t expect any of my team to use it,” commented Sam. Simon Roberts, Winemaker at sparkling wine producer, Ridgeview Wine Estate, in Sussex, has been using diatomaceous earth for many years. Like Sam Lindo, he is concerned about safety when handling the product and also about the sustainability issues with the waste. “We have been looking at alternative filtration methods for a while and decided we will move to cross flow filtration in the next few months, as the technology is now at a level to make it worthwhile switching.” Emma Rice, Winemaker at Hattingley Valley in Hampshire, also mainly produces sparkling wine but uses lenticular filtration. “I looked at the earth filter with so many levers, valves and moving parts and decided that the lenticular was a viable option and simple. They are great but less flexible than cross flow or earth filters,” she added. “If the wine is too cloudy, for example if the lees have been disturbed, then we would probably call in David with his mobile cross-flow!” Lenticular filtration is nominal grade so a membrane filtration is still required if sterility needs to be guaranteed. “Although not all our wines for blending go through malolactic fermentation, I’m not really concerned that we do not sterile filter for sparkling as the pH is low and pressure in the bottle high, which reduces any risk,” explained Emma. “However, if my contract winemaking clients want to use encapsulated yeast, then sterile filtration is necessary.” “On first sight, there do appear to be a lot of moving parts to an earth filter and incorrect use can result in depositing unfiltered wine into a clear filtered tank but, like anything in the winery, it becomes second nature as the user learns to open and close the valves in the right sequence,” explained consultant winemaker David Cowderoy. “I do still use an earth filter occasionally for small volumes of wine or a wine that is particularly cloudy. Also earth filters are nominal filters and are not able to guarantee sterility. For sterility you need a 0.45 μm (micron) absolute membrane filter and you may need to carry out another filtration step in order to achieve a filterability index suitable for the wine to pass through the sterile membrane,” he continued.

“Filtration technology is constantly evolving.”

Photo: BevTech

When to sterile filter

When deciding if sterile filtration is necessary consider the inherent stability of the wine, advised David Cowderoy, during the recent WineGB webinar, “in particular the potential available metabolites, such as residual sugar and malic acid and also what factors are inhibiting the microbes – such as alcohol level, free and total sulphur dioxide, and the wine’s pH. A red wine with no residual sugar, no malic acid, an alcohol level of 14.5% and pH of 3.1 is essentially stable and probably does not require filtration. However, a white wine with 10.5% alcohol and 12g of residual sugar, like most made in England, would be at high risk if not filtered.” “A wine may look clear but yeast and bacteria are not visible to the naked eye. In order to achieve sterility a wine needs to pass through a 0.45 μm membrane so that yeast and bacteria cells are removed before bottling,” added Emma. David also explained that it is a misconception that SO2 is a biocide: ”At levels found in wine it is actually biostatic, so it doesn’t kill, it just inhibits the growth of yeast and bacteria. Yeast cells can remain dormant. The reaction of yeast cells to SO2 is to produce acid aldehyde which binds free SO2. Over time, in bottle, the free SO2 drops, particular with a wine under cork as it allows oxygen ingress, or a screw cap without a tin liner. When the level of free SO2 drops to a critical level, it all ‘kicks off’, the wine is no longer protected and fermentation problems can start in bottle!”

Cross-flow filters

A commonly asked question is if cross flow filters remove flavours from the wine? However, winemakers comment that wines in England are generally considered to improve with filtration. Early versions of cross-flow filters may have had a poor reputation but the technology has improved vastly. Trials have shown that there is little difference for young white or young red wines. “If you consider that your wines are not tasting as good in bottle after filtration, it may not be the filtration process and it is worth evaluating all the winemaking processes,” advises Sam Lindo. When considering environmental impact, the cross-flow filter produces the least waste and very little solids. Simon Roberts plans to filter the wine through a cross-flow straight after cold stabilisation. “With warmer weather at harvest we now do not routinely put the wines through malolactic fermentation. This means that we will use a membrane to sterile filter after the cross-flow filter.” Sam advises that all filtration methods work better if the wine is properly prepared, so that it is as clear as possible, “if in doubt do an extra racking as it will save time. Also, there is no point in trying to go too fast and a slower rate will >>

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

WINEMAKING

> Cross flow filter << usually result in getting more wine through the filter.” As well as going too fast problems can be due to colloidal and turbidity issues,” he adds. “However, the cross-flow really is a filter that can filter pretty much everything,” exclaimed Sam. “There are now options for smaller wineries with single modules.” When preparing the wine, David advises that: “Pectins can be a problem at filtering so the use of pectolytic enzymes during juice handling is usually advantageous for both filtration and, for sparkling wine, disgorging. If in doubt, do a pectin test. If there is an issue with botrytis and glucans, then using beta-glucanases in the juice can help.”

The membrane is only as good as its integrity test

Essentially all filters, other than membrane filters, should really be considered as pre-filters or nominal filters, as the only way to achieve a microbially stable wine is to use an absolute membrane cartridge as the final filter pass before bottling. “Achieving sterile filtration usually requires a pre-filtration using 1 μm beforehand to avoid clogging the 0.45 μm membrane filter,” explained David. The membrane cartridge filter works more like a sieve and the wine passes through a pore size of 0.45 μm. However, membranes can fail, and the damage may not be apparent visually, so the operator needs to check that the membrane is fit for purpose in order to guarantee that it is

Photo: BevTech

removing the potential spoilage organisms. There are two current forms of integrity test that are used in wineries. The first is known as the Bubble Point test, but according to Peter Riddell, from Integrated Processing Technologies Ltd: “The Bubble Point test is not a particularly useful or reliable test.” Peter recommends the Pressure Decay test. “All manufacturers of membrane filters should have validated their filter to provide a maximum allowable diffusional flow value that indicates the membrane is fit for purpose.” The test method uses the fact that a wetted membrane holds water in a very thin layer, due to hydrophilic properties. Peter explains that: “Once test pressure is achieved, the filter housing can be closed off on the inlet side and held for a period of time. The gas, air or nitrogen, will diffuse through the wet membrane resulting in a small loss of pressure. CO2 should not be used as it is too soluble. The extent that the pressure falls can be related back to the maximum allowable diffusional flow specified by the manufacturer, which correlates directly to the filter’s ability to remove micro-organisms,” explained Peter. This pressure loss is the principle of the pressure decay test. “Some people just wait for the membrane to block, but what they don’t realise is that if the membrane is damaged, it won’t block. They will be merrily filtering away, completely unaware that the membrane is useless and that they are not actually filtering at all,” exclaimed Peter.

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When it comes to dissolved oxygen (DO) pick up, the filtration process is often blamed, but David Cowderoy comments that: “DO pick up does not necessarily vary with filtration method but is usually due to other factors. It could be simply that the hose connections are only hand tightened and oxygen is able to penetrate or it may be that inert gas is not being used to protect the wine in tank.” However, he does consider that earth filtration does have an increased risk of DO pick up, as the dosing tank on the side is exposed to oxygen. He advised that it’s important to make sure that any filter housing is fully purged with CO2 and that as water is drained after cleaning it is displaced with CO2, not air. The diatomaceous earth filter works well, it’s been around a long time, but it seems that the safety information for the diatomaceous earth powder is lacking and precaution is advised for the handling and disposal of the powder. However, for a small winery with a limited budget “the earth filter does have the advantage that it is quick and easy, particularly for small volumes of wine. You can set it up with a pre-coat in 30 mins, its only takes about 30 mins to filter the wine, and then another 30 mins to clean up after,” explained David Cowderoy. Simon Roberts agrees: “I still think that perhaps there is a place for earth filtration for smaller producers and smaller budgets. But sustainability is important for all of us, whatever size, and waste is a big consideration.”

David

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Get your floors right

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Floors are not impressive shiny stainless items, they don’t go ‘bing’ and they will cost you a considerable amount of money! But when setting up a winery – ignore suitable floors and drains at your peril. Once the tanks are installed, and plumbed in, it is a massive job to remove them and so poor quality floors never get an upgrade. I have seen wineries, old and new, where keeping the floor clean is an onerous task requiring a team equipped with squeegees, a lot of water and a lot of time. The problem only gets worse, as standing water in a winery will always have a corrosive nature due to wine, juice and cleaning products. This standing water will gradually erode away the concrete and the problem will get worse and worse.

A good fall

Above all else, a good fall is essential. Most builders will tell you a fall of 1:100 will suffice, but whilst this may be true for a garage, it is not for a winery. Where possible I recommend 1:50, but over a long distance this can be expensive as it requires a greater thickness of concrete at one end. A fall of 1:75 may be sufficient, provided it is even throughout the fall. When concrete is poured and floated, it can sometimes ‘slump’, especially if the mix is too wet. So, if you measure from one end of the fall to the other you will have 1:75 but where it has slumped it can be flat. Your contract with the builder should stipulate not just the fall you require, but the minimum fall at any one point. Ideally 1:50 throughout and no less than 1:75 at any one point. Checking the fall is correct can take a lot of time and require precision measurements. However, a good and simple indicator is to just get a hose out and see where the water sits. Then investigate these areas and if they are out of spec – make sure the builders ‘make good’ before going any further.

P h o t o: To

Drains

o mG

Good drains are also essential. They should be stainless steel as galvanised and cast iron will eventually corrode. They have to be strong enough to cope with the traffic, which normally means a forklift with a full load. Slotted drains are cheaper than the removable grill type and stronger, but they are less easy to clean and for this reason quality assurance bodies like SALSA prefer the grill type.

The finish

The choice of floor finish is always a compromise between cost, aesthetics and maintenance. Epoxy screed floors are the ‘Rolls Royce’ option – and carry a similar price tag! However, they are easy to keep clean, last a long time are chemically resistant and can withstand the knocks and bumps that always happen in a winery. Chemically resistant epoxy floor paints are a good alternative, provided they are correctly applied. But they will chip and suffer from abrasion and so will need patching up. Fortunately, the areas underneath the tanks will not suffer this way and so maintenance is only needed in the high traffic areas. A key point for both epoxy screeds and floor paints is that the concrete must be dry enough before the application. A concrete slab may set within a few days, but will not dry out, possibly for weeks, depending on the temperature. Take this into account when scheduling building work, especially if coming up to harvest. The cheapest floor finish is a simple dust proofing paint applied to the concrete. This will work well enough, provided you have a good fall, but will stain easily and require lots of cleaning. A good quality floor and drain setup won’t make better wine but it will save you time – so that you can!

 www.bevtech.co.uk  David Cowderoy 01444 411141 / 07400 208205 paper-plane david@bevtech.co.uk > Woodchester Vineyard

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

WINEMAKING

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Wine stability Clarifying and stabilising your wine before bottling. Clarifying and stabilising wine before bottling, and keeping the desired aromas and character of your wine is a critical step at this time of year. Clarification aims to eliminate haze-causing particles, which can be proteins, vegetal debris, bacteria and yeasts, mostly visible to the naked eye. While filtration serves to clarify, it does not fully stabilise the wine. Colloid additions can improve the stability equilibrium but do not clarify, whereas the addition of fining agents both clarifies and stabilises the wine. Colour is also of critical importance and often oxygen modifies colour compounds and structures so stabilising with antioxidants such as tannins and ascorbic acid assist along with proper bottling procedures. The main risk factors to winemakers are protein, tartaric, colour and microbial stability.

Protein stabilisation

Proteins are naturally present in wines, derived from both the grape and the yeast

during fermentation (as with other alcoholic drinks). They often cause the most common haze issues, though they do provide some benefits to foam stability in sparkling wine. From a consumer perspective it is critical to remove them to achieve a clarified wine. Heat and temperature change proteins, as does the presence of other compounds and tannins, causing them to flocculate and throw a haze. It is important to test your wines before bottling. Fining agents, in particular bentonite, are the best method to stabilise all proteins in a wine. There is a risk of over fining so bench trials are critical to determine the correct dosage. The protein stability check is outlined here; Reference:

Protein stability test

Heat test Protocol 1. Measure the wine turbidity: if 2 NTU, filter the wine (cellulose ester membrane, 0.65μm) turb1 reading. 2. Heat the wine for 30 minutes at 80°C.

3. Let it cool for 45 minutes at room temperature. 4. Measure the wine turbidity again turb2 reading. The wine is unstable if Delta NTU (turb2 - turb1) > 2. In case of a shorter cooling time (eg putting the tube under cool running water): Risk of under-estimation of the bentonite dose (minor haze). In case of a longer cooling time, more than 45 minutes: Risk of over-estimation of the bentonite dose (formation of a haze not due to the thermo-instable protein fractions).

Tartaric stabilisation Tartaric acid is naturally present in wine, derived from the grape, and over time can form crystals in the wine. It is important to either inhibit the crystals from forming, through additions such as Celstab (CMC), or remove/reduce the precursors, typically through the addition of Cream of Tartar (Potassium Bitartrate).

 www.BruniErben.co.uk  07805 081677 paper-plane Mark.Crumpton@BruniErben.co.uk

> Tartaric acid crystals

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

Crystallisation test

Filter 250 mL of wine on a 0.65μm membrane. Place the wine at -4°C for six days. Visual reading after six days: White wine: ◆ Absence of crystals (stable wine) ◆ Presence of crystals: perform chemical identification tests Red wine: ◆ Filter the wine and look for the presence of crystals and/or colouring matter. The crystallisation test models the natural phenomenon of tartaric precipitations in bottle (takes into account the matrix and the presence of protective colloids). Instability factors: temperature, filtration.

Colour stabilisation

Measuring colour stability is often best using spectrophotometry, the machine measures the absorption of the photons passing through the sample at certain wave lengths, due to the density of phenolics and anthocyanins dilution might be necessary during sample preparation as well as pH and SO2 as these can influence the wine equilibrium. Measurements are taken after sample preparation to stabilise the compounds and a range of parameters can be measured such as hue, SO2 resistant pigments, total red pigments, phenolics and colouration depending on your requirements. Often Rose and red wines are subject to more measures as consistency of colour is critical and can be part of the wine brand. Stabivin (gum Arabic) is commonly used to help stabilise colour compounds to maintain the compounds structure and limits sedimentation over time by keeping the product in suspension. Often used in tandem with tannin products but it is only effective in tartaric stable wine matrixes and addition timings is an important consideration.

SULFISPARK® – Must preservation – Micro stability Association of ammonium bisulphite and gallic tannis for their antioxidant and anti-oxidase properties.

SULFISPARK® acts to: ◆ Prevent browning of musts. ◆ Eliminate or strongly inhibit polyphenol oxidase. ◆ Allow safe cold settling by delaying the start of fermentation. ◆ Significantly improve the structure and ageing potential of sparkling base wines without making them astringent.

MICROCOL® ALPHA – Protein stability – Bentonite for oenological use

Natural sodium bentonite with a high absorption capacity, intended for protein stablisation in wine, grape juice and must clarification over a large pH range. MICROCOL® ALPHA has been selected for its highly specific oenological criteria: ◆ Stabilising properties in regard to heatsensitive proteins on a wide pH spectrum. ◆ Stabilising the load through time. ◆ Clari﬌ ing capacity and proportion of lees (high clari﬌ ing power). ◆ Aromatic preservation. ◆ Colour preservation.

CELSTAB® (CMC) – Tartaric stabilisation of wines Cellulose gum solution (CMC/E466).

CELSTAB® is intended for wine stabilisation in relation to tartrate salt precipitations. Its action results in an inhibition of microcrystal nucleation and growth phases (via disorganisation of the surface of the salts that are required for crystal formation). ◆

Microbial stabilisation

There is no test for microbial stabilisation prior to bottling, but a post-bottling test is crucial to assess the quality of your bottling process. Micro-organisms present post-bottling can cause serious haze and volatile issues, as well as re-fermentation. Supermarkets reject wines with a >1 CFU/ 10ml count. Fining agents and enzyme additions, such as Lysozyme or Sorbate, can target microbes as well as SO2 additions. Filtration, cross flow filtration and flash pasteurisation are important tools in protecting microbial stability. Remember, as Australian wine expert Bryce Rankine said: “Deposits in wine are harmless, but the customer’s reaction might not be!”

Sparkling wines: incorporate entirely to the base wine before.

STABIVIN (GUM ARABIC) Stabilisation of wine colouring matter Selected and purified arabic gum solution, 100% VEREK, with a high stabilisation index. STABIVIN® is a hydrophilic colloid which counters hazes and colloidal deposits, allowing the wine to retain maximum clarity: ◆ ◆ ◆

Stabilises unstable colouring matter. Increases protection against metallic or protein casses. Synergistic action with POLYTARTRYL®, for improved stabilisation against tartaric precipitations.

THE all new TERRAGLIDE SUSPENDED FRONT AXLE and TRELLEBORG PNEUTRAC TYRES

available across New Holland T4 Speciality range

JEREMY CLOUDE 07710 870153

RICHARD SMITH 07483 035922

COVERING KENT, SUSSEX AND SURREY

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Haynes Agri

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H AY N E S A G R I C U LT U R A L LT D .

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Reliable & effective frost protection @

01580 712200 • www.npseymour.co.uk • sales@npseymour.co.uk F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

MACHINERY

The Voen Anti Frost Heater The efficient, ecological and economic solution for frost protection in fruit production. Voen is the market leader in crop protection products for high quality stone fruit production worldwide. We have developed a range of solutions based on our own practical experience as growers. The Voen Anti Frost heater is born out of that attitude and partnership with our customers around the world. After 5 years of production for both European and Australian markets, this heater is now available for the UK market. Initially developed for stone fruit crops after a catastrophic frost event in 2014 on the continent, Voen has a lot of experience working with growers to help protect a range of fruit crops from frost damage. The Voen Anti Frost oven is a pellet-operated unit that combines easy handling, safe functionality and efficient work. They are designed to be ecological, economic and sustainable. The main specifications are: ◆ Wood pellet operated (max 7.5% humidity) ◆ Re-fillable after each use with minor ash residue left in orchard ◆ From approximately 30 ovens per hectare (depending on the frost intensity) ◆ TÜV tested, manufactured in Germany ◆ Very little smoke development ◆ Approximately 20KW heating capacity per oven. The Voen Anti Frost oven is the simpler and safer alternative to frost protection candles, as the oven ensures a flexible burning time of up to 8 hours. It produces no noise, no light pollution, minimal smoke production and the fuel is relatively cheap and easy to attain even at short notice. Once set up in the orchard, filling and lighting of the Anti Frost VOEN is done in a very short time, so that even with a small workforce, faster and comprehensive frost protection is possible. For the months of January and February this year Voen is promoting the oven to vineyard growers with a 20% discount from the recommended price of 300

For more details:  07887 747917 paper-plane mattfoster.mgf@gmail.com euro ex- works. Pellets are widely available online at around 25p per kilo in 15kg palletised bags. Each oven can burn 20-25kg over 8-9 hours respectively per use. This means, with comparison to the costs of candles, after just four frost events growers can find the initial oven cost is covered and all other frost events will just require the cost of the pellets. Charlie at Coolhurst Vineyards, near Horsham, will be the first grower in the UK to trail the Voen heaters. “After being affected by the late frosts in May 2020 I have done a huge amount of research into frost protection. The Voen heaters appeal as they are like reusable bougies, using sustainable wood pellets – and with only 30 units needed per hectare they will be a lot easier and quicker to light! I will trial 30 units while the vines are dormant. As I monitor temperature in the vineyard and have a live heat map, as well as thermal goggles, I will be able to assess their performance. If they work, I will be ordering more!”

Vineyard Frost Protection Cost comparison Voen Heater vs. Candles, EUR / ha 12,000

Total costs, EUR per ha

10,000 8,000 Heaters

6,000

Candles

4,000 2,000 0 0

Number of nights

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

Vitifruit Equipment Sales and Hire

PRE PRUNER

SPRAYERS

PRUNINGS MULCHERS

TYING DOWN TOOL

FROST PROTECTION

POWERED SECATEURS

www.vitifruitequipment.co.uk /vitifruitequipment

 vitifruitequipment@sky.com

 01732 866567

PREPARE FOR SPRING WITH OUR ORIZZONTI RANGE OF MECHANICAL WEEDERS

Kirkland UK, Griffins Farm, Pleasure House Lane Maidstone, ME17 3NW. Tel. 01622 843013 E. info@kirklanduk.com

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

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VITIFRUIT EQUIPMENT

Multi-tasking equipment The Alsatian company Provitis make a package of tools which can be fitted to a single mast namely; Vine Trimmers, De-leafers, Pre-pruners, Canepulling, Bud-rubbing, and summer canopy lifting and tying-in tools. These tools are becoming ever more popular as their reputation for labour saving, reliability and longevity spreads. A number of UK vineyards have purchased one of the tools and then at a later date added another. For example, starting with a trimmer in year one and the following year adding a De-leafer or Pre-pruner, such as done by Bluebell and Tinwood Vineyards. This modular system saves the expense of having a separate mast for each tool. Provitis also make over the row and double-sided tools for mounting onto tractors of different sizes and different hydraulic capacities. David Sayell of Vitifruit Equipment has the equipment available for both demonstration and hire and invites managers and vineyard owners to ask for a trial in their own vineyards using their own tractors. David explains that even the smaller vineyards enjoy significant operational cost savings when hiring these tools particularly when in comparison to labour rates per hectare. It's an unfortunate fact but fewer people will be needed in the future to maintain the vines.

5090GF Fruit Spec • 90hp 4 cylinder engine • 24/12 PReverser 0.5 - 40Km/h • Air Con/ Air seat + Radio • 3SCV + 540/540E PTO • Drawbar + CAT II linkage • 5 x mid mount couplers • 380/70R28 280/70R20 • Front linkage/PTO

Prices exclude VAT. Stock subject to available. Library pictures. *Finance provided by JDF, subject to terms and conditions, business users only, details available. Offer can be withdrawn at any time.

www.farol.co.uk  www.vitifruitequipment.co.uk  01732 866567 paper-plane vitifruitequipment@sky.com

Rycote Lane Farm, Milton Common, Thame, Oxfordshire, OX9 2NZ Unit 12, Newton Business Park, Newton, Nottinghamshire, NG13 8HA Coldridge Copse, Shefford Woodlands, Hungerford, Berkshire, RG17 7BP Wharf Farm, Coventry, Hinckley, Leicestershire, LE10 0NB Holmbush House, Holmbush Ind. Est., Midhurst, West Sussex, GU29 9XY London Road, Twyford, Reading, Berkshire, RG10 9EQ

F E B R UA R Y 2021 | V I N E YA R D

VOEN Anti Frost Heater for vineyards

Secure your vine harvest in a sustainable, convenient and cost efficient way

Start 30*) heaters per ha in the evening and prevent frost damage through the entire night. Runs on sustainably produced wooden pellets without any smoke development. The low labour intensity and cheap energy source makes the VOEN Anti Frost a very cost efficient solution. *) Number of heaters per ha depends on frost intensity and field topography. For more info visit www.voen.de or contact your local VOEN representative

Matt Foster +447887 747917 mattfoster.mgf@gmail.com