VINEYARD for viticulturists in Great Britain ™
JUNE 2020
VITI-CULTURE LIVE! Top speakers, seminars and plenty more
MATTHEW JUKES WINE REVIEW Sustainable wineries
IN CONVERSATION Paul Olding, Wildwood Vineyard
NEW PERSPECTIVES A vineyard's fresh approach to making wine
VINEYARD CONSULTANTS • Planning Applications
• Site Finding
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• Leases
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VINEYARD for viticulturists in Great Britain
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www.vineyardmagazine.co.uk VINEYARD Kelsey Media, The Granary, Downs Court Yalding Hill, Yalding, Maidstone, Kent, ME18 6AL 01959 541444 EDITORIAL Editor: Rebecca Chaplin vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk Studio Manager: Jo Legg jo.legg@kelsey.co.uk Graphic Designer: James Pitchford james.pitchford@kelsey.co.uk ADVERTISEMENT SALES Simon Hyland Talk Media Sales Ltd 01732 445327 Simon.Hyland@talkmediasales.co.uk PHOTOGRAPHER Martin Apps www.countrywidephotographic.co.uk MANAGEMENT CHIEF EXECUTIVE: Steve Wright CHIEF OPERATING Officer: Phil Weeden MANAGING DIRECTOR: Kevin McCormick PUBLISHER: Jamie McGrorty RETAIL DIRECTOR: Steve Brown RENEWALS AND PROJECTS MANAGER: Andy Cotton SENIOR SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING MANAGER: Nick McIntosh SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING DIRECTOR: Gill Lambert SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING MANAGER: Kate Chamberlain SENIOR PRINT PRINT PRODUCTION MANAGER: Georgina Harris PRINT PRODUCTION CONTROLLER: Kelly Orriss DISTRIBUTION Distribution in Great Britain: Marketforce (UK) 2nd Floor, 5 Churchill Place Canary Wharf, London, E14 5HU Tel: 020 3787 9001 PRINTING Precision Colour Print
NEWS 8 10
Biodiversity Net Gain to benefit landowners
12 13 14
Expansion begins Customers back in store Vineyard added to portfolio
REGULARS 42
The agronomy diary
43
The vine post
44
Representing you
46
Warming up
49
Machinery
Kelsey Media 2020 © all rights reserved. Kelsey Media is a trading name of Kelsey Publishing Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part is forbidden except with permission in writing from the publishers. Note to contributors: articles submitted for consideration by the editor must be the original work of the author and not previously published. Where photographs are included, which are not the property of the contributor, permission to reproduce them must have been obtained from the owner of the copyright. The editor cannot guarantee a personal response to all letters and emails received. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor or the Publisher. Kelsey Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services offered by third parties. Kelsey Media takes your personal data very seriously. For more information of our privacy policy, please visit Kelsey Media takes your personal data very seriously. For more information of our privacy policy, please visit https://www.kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy/ . If at any point you have any queries regarding Kelsey’s data policy you can email our Data Protection Officer at dpo@kelsey.co.uk.
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Virtual wine tasting launched
Use foliar nutrition and biostimulants to minimise frost losses. Working with Gripple.
Updates from the industry’s membership organisation. For the viticulturist, the most important things to consider when planting a vineyard are temperature, temperature and temperature… Spaldings joins Honda as national dealer and adds new products.
Front cover image: Redhill Farm Estate © Countrywide Photographic
vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk @VineyardMagGB VineyardMagGB
CONTENTS Features
22 24 26 32
In conversation Paul Olding has completed risk assessments for filming in dangerous locations but he's now working to get his vineyard back to work with social distancing.
Matthew Jukes “This is the most resonant and beautiful English wine I have ever tasted – and I have waited 34 years to say this”.
Editor’s Visit Owner of Redhill Farm Estate Henry Boorman decided to invest in vines rather than the stockmarket in his attempt to break free of the London rat race.
Viti-Culture LIVE The 2020 line-up has now been revealed, boasting a schedule of top speakers and master classes that you won’t want to miss.
Re b
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The sun is beating down once again as we begin what is the third month of lockdown, or at least this sort of faux lockdown we seem to be in. The incredible thing at the moment, and I’m sure you feel it as much as I do, is the drastic change from month to month. Particularly when writing the magazine, I find the things that seemed so important to include at the beginning of the month are almost irrelevant four weeks later as I come to write this welcome letter. It feels like an age ago but it’s really only been a few weeks since vineyards were lit up overnight to ward off the frost. However, as this magazine goes to print reports are out from the Met Office that it was the sunniest May on record in the UK, the driest for more than 100 years in England, and the second driest in Wales. With not a cloud in the sky – and even less vapour trails – the hotting-up of Great Britain seems to have supercharged overnight. Here I am baking in the heat and looking out over almost completely dried out land. Speaking to vineyard owners and workers this month, this has resulted in more challenges in what was already a difficult time – particularly with labour shortages. These ongoing issues are echoed by newly released research from WineGB. It has shown that vineyards and wineries are really feeling the pressure, with two thirds reporting cashflow concerns and half have delayed strategic investment. Unsurprisingly, this has resulted in four out of ten owners experiencing higher stress levels. Meanwhile, half of larger vineyards said they have concerns about the availability of seasonal workers and one third of owners are experiencing supply chain issues. The knock-on effects in the vineyard are continuing to find new ways to put on the pressure. There has been some positivity, as some vineyards are preparing to open up cellar doors with new social distancing in place or finding new ways to offer vineyard tours later in the year. You can read my interview in full with one vineyard manager who’s been deep in risk assessments and guidance to ensure he can get back to some sort of normality as soon as possible. What has likely been some more welcome good news, was the release of the Sommelier Wine Award winners too, with some high praise for the continued hard work going into producing these wines. It feels almost as if the world is tempting us with some return to normality. It’s hard to believe that after all of these unpredicted difficulties it could get much worse, but we will have to wait and see what the month ahead holds. I hope you enjoy the issue and, as ever, please get in touch with your thoughts and stories.
Send your thoughts and comments
info@producepackaging.co.uk www.producepackaging.co.uk
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J U N E 2020 | V I N E YA R D
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From the editor
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NEWS
Bolney Wine Estate launches virtual wine tasting
Bolney Wine Estate in Haywards Heath, West Sussex, has launched virtual tastings in response to the Covid-19 crisis preventing them from opening the vineyard. Customers can now choose from four different wine tasting collections, which will be delivered to their home. They can then arrange a date; tastings can accommodate up to 10 households on each video call. The description states that you simply need to decide on who you’d like to join you on your virtual tasting, and then each login to the video call counts as one ‘household’. Then pick the wine tasting package and place
an order online. A member of the Bolney team will be in contact within 48 hours to arrange a date and let you know further information on setting up your tasting. They then send each household three bottles of wine, along with everything else you’ll need, ready for your tasting. Virtual tasters can choose from four packages: Everyday Drinking, Perfect Summer Drinks, Perfect Pairing Wines, and The Gold Trophy Winners. The package also includes tasting notes for all of the wines, a ‘how to taste’ sheet and a Bolney quiz sheet.
WSET exams go online
8
The Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET), the world’s largest global provider of wine, spirits and sake qualifications, has introduced online exams for its English language Level 1 awards in wines, spirits and sake and its Level 2 awards in wines and spirits, as of June 1, 2020. This development forms part of WSET’s ongoing digital strategy to enable as many students as possible to continue with their learning during the current Covid-19 crisis. Although students can currently take the majority of WSET courses online, until now they have had to sit an offline exam to complete a WSET qualification. With social distancing guidelines in place across most of the world, many exams have been cancelled or postponed until the situation changes. The introduction of online exams means that students can now study for, and complete, WSET’s English language Level 1 and 2 qualifications from home. This gives them the flexibility to study for, and take, their exams anywhere in the world. WSET’s online exams are carried out using
J U N E 2020 | V I N E YA R D
remote invigilation. Remote invigilation enables students to sit their exam at home on a computer while being monitored via webcam, screen sharing technology and a secondary recording device, which can simply be a smartphone. The remotely invigilated online exams in English have been successfully piloted and
will be rolled out through WSET’s network of 800 plus course providers across the world. Students will still have the option to sit a traditional paper-based classroom exam if that is their preference. WSET is also continuing to develop computer-based testing to enable students to sit exams online in the classroom with their local course provider.
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NEWS
Raise a glass for English and Welsh wine! A brand-new campaign has been launched to support the British brewing, distilling and winemaking sectors. Triggered by news of the industry facing difficulties following the closure of pubs, bars and restaurants during the coronavirus pandemic, the #RaiseAGlass campaign has been created to encourage UK drinkers to make local choices and discover the unique gems on their doorstep. With the hospitality sector’s temporary closure accounting for just under half of typical UK drinks sales, British producers have faced a surplus of stock levels with limited channels for purchasing. However, with the innovation of the Great British drinks industry knowing no bounds, many breweries, distilleries and vineyards have taken to social media to offer customers new and safe ways to purchase their products – from online home deliveries to socially-distant pick up services. It was this innovation which led Jim Rankin – commercial director and co-owner of cork and closures manufacturer Rankin Brothers & Sons and fierce and passionate supporter of the British drinks industry – to find ways to further help these businesses. Looking to raise awareness and celebrate the wealth of unique local tastes and flavours available to British consumers, the #RaiseAGlass campaign was born. He said: “We are incredibly lucky in the UK and Ireland to have access to such a brilliant range of drinks on our doorstep. “At times like these, we are undoubtedly strongest when we work together. Supporting local businesses where we can is so incredibly important – for those who are able to, it would be wonderful to see people
make the choice to spend mindfully and spend locally when it comes to choosing what to kick back with on a Friday night!” As a celebration of our producers, the campaign will run on social media, encouraging businesses to highlight the easy ways to buy their products. Consumers are encouraged to share which locally-produced drinks they are enjoying over the weekend. All instilling a sense of modest pride and utmost community spirit in raising a glass to our local producers. For more information on how to get involved in the campaign, including bespoke visuals and social media guides, visit www.rankincork.co.uk/raise-a-glass.
Biodiversi Net Gain to benefit landowners
10
New government plans will see landowners and developers working closely together in the future to create Biodiversity Net Gain (BNG) opportunities, which will turn natural capital and the associated environmental, biodiversity and social benefits, known as ecosystem services into income generating opportunities for landowners. At a time when pressure on farm incomes is inevitable, this will be welcome news for the region’s landowners. The draft Environment Bill currently in Parliament sets out proposals for developers requiring them to achieve a 10% improvement to biodiversity value. They will be required to submit a biodiversity plan along with their development plans. A net gain on the same site as the development is preferred but achieving 110% of biodiversity value and a development scheme will in some circumstances be impossible and a separate site will be required. BNG is already a requirement of the National Planning Policy Framework and National Planning Practice Guidance, and local planning
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authorities will now be required to produce plans detailing priorities in the borough for biodiversity projects and some plans are being progressed already. Laura Nesfield, director at BTF Partnership, said: “Building work on any development will not be able to begin until the local planning authority is happy that off-site biodiversity gain or credits are actually allocated or pre-purchased. The opportunity for landowners is to provide land for biodiversity projects, generating income. Potential sites will need to meet criteria and be capable of meeting new targets for biodiversity enhancement.” She added: “Whilst the relevant legislation has not yet passed through parliament, it is the case that a number of local authorities are already embracing the principles of BNG. We have experience of advising landowners on the metrics assessment to establish BNG requirements and have already facilitated the sale of a woodland in East Kent which will be used to offset losses on a development site in a Kentish coastal town. We expect
opportunities such as this either by way of sale or by way of conservation covenants with the landowner to increase in the future. There is no fixed approach to commercial value and circumstances vary in each case. “Beyond BNG there should be further opportunities for landowners with Ecosystem Services and these may be included in their Environmental Land Management System (ELMS), if and when it is prescribed. Natural Flood Management is already being investigated on a client’s farm in the Upper Beult catchment. Various trials are in progress around the country which will hopefully produce practical and viable proposals.” “There are significant potential opportunities here for landowners and farmers and a first step towards progressing them would be to understand the natural capital of their land holdings and the potential opportunities it could create as a new revenue stream that sits hand in hand with their other farm operations, followed by engaging with local authorities, developers and consultants.”
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J U N E 2020 | V I N E YA R D
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NEWS
Expansion begins English sparkling wine brand Nyetimber has begun its pre-planned vineyard expansion by planting 195,000 vines covering 42 hectares at a new site in Kent. It has also replanted 10,000 vines covering 2.5 hectares at the estate’s main vineyard in West Sussex, this will enable Nyetimber to produce on average an additional 220,000 bottles a year when the new vines reach maturity in 2023-24. This expansion is carrying on despite the challenging trading conditions and it represents the second largest vine planting programme to have been undertaken by Nyetimber in its 30-year history. It reflects
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the long-term forecast growth in demand for Nyetimber’s wines in the UK and internationally. Nyetimber’s new vineyard, comprising Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, is near the village of Thurnham in Kent on what was an arable field on the Kent Downs. Identifying this suitable location has taken years of research to find the right site where geology, soil and aspect all come together. The site sits on a chalk base where the rich chalk loams have been supporting farming families for generations. The vineyard typically expects a planting success rate of 99% and it says its aim is not to make each site taste the same. Instead they
should each have their own sense of place and unique character to give even more blending components to the winemakers. The estate’s ten vineyards across West Sussex, Hampshire and Kent, now have 327 hectares under vine of which 260 hectares will be producing this year. Eric Heerema, owner and CEO of Nyetimber said: “This expansion of our vineyards reflects our confidence in the sustained long-term growth of the brand. “We can’t wait for these new vines to reach their full potential and the planting programme underscores our confidence, commitment and endeavour to produce the best possible English sparkling wine.”
NEWS
Customers back in store
Majestic Wine, the UK’s largest specialist wine retailer, is now allowing customers to collect orders from their local store. This will be the first time the business will be allowing visitors to any of their 200 nationwide branches since the 23 March. Majestic initially closed its doors to customers two days before the government introduced lockdown measures, in a bid to protect colleagues and customers from coronavirus. Since then, the retailer has operated a deliveryonly policy using a fleet of over 200 vans across the UK. Due to customer and staff feedback, the business began trialing a collection service in a number of branches a fortnight ago. Now, with enhanced safety measures in place such as protective screens and social distancing, the next day collection service is being rolled out across the vast majority of stores. “Throughout our response to Covid-19, our number one priority has been the safety of everyone connected with Majestic” explains John Colley, chief executive at Majestic. “With some tentative reopening of the country now underway, our customers have been asking for more ways to access our fantastic wines,
beers and spirits – and a safe collection service will allow them to do just that.” Customers are being encouraged to place their order through their local Majestic branch, where they will be allotted a time slot to collect their bottles. Customers can also still opt for the free home delivery option through the store’s van. He added: “As we move through our response to coronavirus, we are constantly looking at the best possible ways we can support our
customers, our colleagues and our suppliers throughout. I would like to thank the whole Majestic team who, during this unprecedented period, have been incredibly hardworking, safe and adaptable but have not lost sight of the fun and passion which makes this business such a unique and special place. The positive feedback I have received about this business has been like nothing we have experienced in 40 years of trading. It’s been incredible to witness.”
Shrewsbury vineyard founder dies of coronavirus
David Millington, who founded the Wroexeter Roman Vineyard in Shrewsbury, has died from coronavirus. He passed away in a care home on 20 May, and the family wrote on the vineyard's Facebook page: “This evening has been very difficult as we sadly lost Martin’s dad, David Millington, due to Covid-19. This vineyard and others would not be here if it wasn’t for him. Raise a glass and please stay safe.” In the early 1990s, David Millington realised after a trip to California the rich history of his family’s land and its potential for growing grapes. Called Uriconium in Roman times and now Wroexeter, where the Romans grew vines more than 2000 years ago. After consulting specialists, the first vines were planted in 1991 and impressively the first vintage was harvested the following year. David Millington played a huge part in how all vineyards are run today, as not long after planting the vineyard in 1991 the local planning authority decided for some reason that vine growing was an industrial process and took the Millington family to court saying that the vines needed industrial planning permission. The vineyard was on a green field site next to an ancient scheduled monument, meaning this permission would never have been given and it would need to be removed. Rather than giving up they made several court appearances to appeal this. Eventually, in The High Court of Appeal the Millington family won their
case and case law was written. Vine growing and wine making is now classed as an agricultural use of land and this Judgment is still being used today in many cases. In 2011, David’s son Martin and his wife Amanda took over the vineyard and Martin has been the wine maker for some years.
J U N E 2020 | V I N E YA R D
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NEWS
UK wines used for first all-English Vermouth The first ‘all English’ Vermouth is set to be launched by In the Loop drinks. Although there have been English Vermouths before, the creator believes this could be the first with every ingredient - from Chardonnay and Pinot noir grapes to local botanicals - produced in England. “Wine from award winning UK vineyards is blended with fresh, locally grown and foraged botanicals to produce a light and delicate 16% Vermouth that is typically English - but no less exotic than its mainland European competitors”, says Sussex-based In the Loop drinks. Botanicals used for their flavours include wormwood - the traditional Vermouth botanical - and fresh gorse flowers that give white melon aroma, lemon verbena for citrus notes and borage flowers for a cucumber taste. Up to 15 different herbs, plants and flowers are used in the blends, 13 of them fresh. “Using wine from award winning UK vineyards as the basis for reinventing a classic drink that also champions fresh, locally grown and foraged botanicals, was just too good an opportunity to miss,” says In the Loop drinks’ company owner and director, Gnina Balchin. “The development of a range of home grown Vermouths is a natural progression for the UK drinks industry”, says Balchin.
Photo © Johnny Stephens Photography
“If you look at countries with more established wine industries, particularly those of Spain and Italy, you will find a range of Vermouths that are classically Spanish or Italian in flavour profile. The wine industry here is now experiencing consistent growth, providing quality base wines that, when infused with fresh, locally sourced botanicals, can produce a light and delicate Vermouth that is typically “English” but certainly no less exotic than European competitors.” The range can be bought directly online from In the Loop drinks, is suitable for vegetarians and one is vegan. In the Loop drinks began trading last year from solar powered premises close to the Ashdown Forest in East Sussex. The company is dedicated to sustainable production – a concept reflected in the name of the business.
Vineyard added to portfolio
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On 1 June, after over 160 years of exclusively importing wines into the UK, Mentzendorff will commercially add its first-ever English sparkling wine producer, Hambledon Vineyard, to it's portfolio. It’s a fitting match as Hambledon Vineyard is also the UK’s oldest commercial vineyard, founded in 1952. It is an exciting time for the two to join forces as Hambledon have recently increased plantings taking the total acres under vine to over 200. This is coupled with the building of a 1.8 million bottle storage facility ensuring that all wine can continue to be aged on site as sales grow. Currently under construction, the facility is carefully cut into the Sussex chalk overlooking the vineyards and adjacent to the only gravity-fed, state-of-the-art winery in the UK. Hambledon Vineyard is also beginning work on
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a visitor facility and tasting room which will have the potential to welcome up to 50,000 visitors each year, exploring the story behind the wines and increasing consumer awareness. Ian Kellett, managing director for Hambledon Vineyard, said: “Hambledon has already come a long way, but there remain many opportunities for us ahead and we have a number of new projects in the pipeline. “We are delighted to be partnering with Mentzendorff, and are looking forward to benefitting from their distribution and in-depth knowledge of the premium sparkling category to continue to develop the presence of our current range and future releases.” Andrew Hawes, managing director for Mentzendorff, added: “Hambledon Vineyard is a natural addition to our portfolio of family-owned wine companies all of whom represent the very
> Ian Kellett and Andrew Hawes highest quality from their respective regions. “We have followed the development of English sparkling wine with great interest and are very excited to be, for the first time, offering our customers a unique complementary portfolio of the highest quality Champagne and sparkling wines – placing Hambledon (where it justifiably belongs within English Sparking Wine) alongside Champagne Bollinger, Champagne Ayala & Langlois-Chateau Crémant de Loire, in a market for quality sparkling wine that continues to grow and excite huge interest from the trade and consumers.”
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NEWS
Wellness services to support those affected by Covid-19 With the support of industry donors and numerous fundraising efforts within its community, The Drinks Trust has recently completed a round of one-off £250 financial grants to assist just under 2000 of those who face loss of earnings as a result of Covid-19. The Trust will continue to support people financially in the months ahead, however the emerging and likely long-term effects the current situation will have on the mental health and wellness of the community has led The Drinks Trust to launch significantly increased wellness services, that it hopes will begin to meet the needs of our colleagues struggling with challenges at this time. The Drinks Trust Wellness Services will cover key areas of well-being and will deliver a range of services over an initial seven-month period until the end of the year, although the intention is to increase the availability of these services and the offering, to meet the evolving needs of the drinks industry workforce. Resident wellness and leadership coach, Kat Hounsell (Founding Director, Everyday People) will be delivering tips and tricks to care for your holistic health. Kat is a consultant and well-being specialist having previously worked within the drinks industry. With industry expertise and insight, she will apply her guidance to a community she has been part of for many years. Additionally, new online and downloadable content will be made available for community members to learn more about the ways in which to approach their wellbeing concerns. The Drinks Trust will also make an initial investment of £80,000 to provide online video therapy services, provided by Dr Julian, an online and app-based therapy service. The service’s purpose is to put accessible mental healthcare into the hands of everybody in the drinks industry. The Dr Julian services are commissioned by the NHS Improving Access to Psychological Therapies to provide mental health support on the NHS. They also work with corporate companies and organisations, such as The Drinks Trust, to provide mental
health support for their communities. Sleep & Insomnia Treatment will also be offered, and although originally conceived as a Drinks Trust service for those working late shift patterns and those struggling with work related stress, there is now an emerging need as a result of work uncertainty and decreased physical energy expenditure. The Drinks Trust will be inviting 300 individuals to undertake a week-long sleep and insomnia assessment, with 150 then qualifying for a monthlong treatment programme. This service is delivered through app-based technologies and assessment tools, together with a live consultancy from a trained sleep and insomnia specialist. The service is delivered by Sleepstation, the leading UK provider of sleep and insomnia treatment to the NHS. The Drinks Trust helpline was set up in 2017 and remains a core service to the drinks industry. The Drinks Trust will be looking to help more people and where necessary, refer them to therapists for counselling. This will also enable more people to seek the vital mental health support they may otherwise not be able to access owing to the lack of availability on the NHS and the prohibitive cost of private care. CEO, Ross Carter said: “Thanks to industry donor businesses such as London Essence and Virgin Wines and to all of our Business Partners, we are delighted to be able to offer our community an increased range of support services at a difficult time. We are very grateful for their support and hope that this is just the beginning of a broader wellness service offering. We would ask any business in the industry who is able to donate to The Drinks Trust to consider doing so, as our services are needed now more than ever.” Chairman, Michael Sanders added: “I’m delighted that we are able to offer the drinks industry community such vital support services. We have been planning this since mid-2019, so to be able to launch now is particularly important at this critical juncture for so many. We know demand will be acute and The Drinks Trust is here to help in every way that we can”.
Imported wines from Europe to be hit by price hike
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The government announced in May the new tariffs that will replace the EU Common External Tariff from January 1, 2021, called the UK Global Tariff. The Department for International Trade has said that the new schedule simplifies the system, removing red tape and ‘nuisance tariffs’ under 2%. It has maintained tariffs on several products to back UK industries such as fishing, automotive and agriculture – including wine. While this should have a positive impact for local producers who have struggled to compete with cheaper overseas products, the Wine and Spirit Trade Association (WSTA) has commented that this could hit the wider UK wine industry in
J U N E 2020 | V I N E YA R D
an already difficult economic time. The tax for imported wine could see a £2 price hike on most bottles from mainland Europe. Miles Beale, chief executive of the WSTA, said: “It’s disappointing that the government has ignored the UK’s world leading wine industry and chosen to keep wine tariffs when the transition period ends on 31 December. “This runs counter to the government’s narrative that its new UKGT takes a “common sense approach”, gets rid of nuisance tariffs or reduces administrative burdens. It will not increase choice for consumers, but instead will add an unnecessary barrier to trade. He added: “The UK’s 33 million wine drinkers
will be faced with price increases on about half the wine they enjoy. “It is yet another blow to wine importers, independent wine merchants, pubs, and restaurants at a time when so many are already worried about their businesses and making finances go further. The shutdown of the hospitality sector has been hugely disruptive, and this news just adds to a long list of worries. Government needs to start listening to - and acting upon – suggestions from UK businesses, including taking action now to remove burdens and costs on UK businesses and allow them to be more competitive to aid the UK’s economic recovery.”
NEWS
Around the world Champagne sees drop in sales but turnover grows The Comité Champagne (CIVC) released the complete 2019 sales figures showing that the volume sold dropped by 1.6% compared with 2018 but turnover broke another record or €5 billion. Earlier in the year it revealed that the total amounts of bottles sold dropped under 300 million for the first time since 2009 to 297.6 million bottles sold. This is mainly down to a reduction in its biggest market, France, down 4%. However, an increase of prestige cuvée export sales, up by 15.3% in volume and 18.1% in value, helped revenue rise. Meanwhile, the non-vintage category fell for the third year in a row, down 0.8% in volume and 1.5% in value. This has been impacted by political uncertainty in its two biggest export
markets, the UK and the USA but the fear of tax increases in both regions prompted widespread panic buying during the last two months of 2019. Director general Vincent Perrin commented: “In 2019, despite the uncertain global context, Champagne continued to enjoy growth worldwide. For the second year running, exports overtook sales within France, where new legislation limiting promotional offers had a severe impact on Champagne sales, particularly in the supermarket sector. “As a direct result of this new dynamic, 2019 set a new record for turnover, which climbed to over €5 billion for the first time. This value creation was the result of two phenomena: firstly, the development of distant markets, where Champagne is highly valued, and, secondly, premiumisation and diversification of the market in terms of cuvées – both signs that consumers outside France appreciate the diversity on offer from Champagne producers.”
Largest certified living building in the world Silver Oak, at Alexander Valley vineyard, California, has become the largest manufacturing facility to earn living building status. Living Building status means the building gives back as much as it states, and requires meeting a rigorous set of standards set out by the International Living Future Institute. It has to receive certification in seven areas, or petals, from the institute. The winery will only be the 25th of its kind in the world and took five years to complete. The winery team explained that the goal was to create a place you’d love, that fostered a symbiotic relationship between winery and ecosystem— from light and air to nature and community. Haley Duncan, sustainability manager, said: “We approached this challenge as an opportunity to shift the paradigm in how we think about our most important artifacts as an industry: vineyards,
wineries and tasting rooms. “Symbolically, the winery is built to engender community relationships and also set a broader, global benchmark here in Sonoma County.” Jason F. McLennan, the founder of ILFI and the Living Building Challenge, said: “It’s inspiring to see such a beautiful facility earn the world’s most
ambitious standard for regenerative design. “The fact that a manufacturing facility with such unique challenges achieved Living Certification is a true tribute to the collaborative nature of the project and the power of good design.”
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AWARDS
SOMMELIER WINE AWARDS 2020
East Sussex vineyard Fox & Fox awarded trio of gold medals The Sommelier Wine Awards (SWA) 2020 winners were announced in May, giving high praise to English sparkling wine despite becoming more critical now it is more established. Fox & Fox were particularly well received with three of its wines winning gold medals. The SWA is the UK’s only wine competition to focus entirely on wines aimed at the on-trade. Judges include Master Sommeliers and Masters of Wine, who all serve or buy wine for venues in the on-trade or are leading consultants in developing wine lists. The judges had become more critical of English wine in this years results, particularly in the still wine category, and commented in the results: “Our tasters’ attitude to English wine has shifted over the years. When we first started to get sizeable numbers entered into SWA there was an almost giddy excitement at how good they were and, probably, too many medals. Now, English fizz is well established, its novelty value has worn off and our teams judge it far more critically. “It is this, rather than any flattening off in quality, that explains the reason why the category has settled where it has – 16-18 medals, with four or five places on the Gold List, for each of the past four years. “Most of the entries were based on champagne grape blends, but it was good to see some variety in the winners, with some English grapes and different production methods, such as Charmat-method, or (as in one of Fox & Fox’s two Golds) a Meunier blanc de noir.” The boutique grower-producer Fox & Fox was awarded gold for its newly
Litmus,
White Pinot 2016
Three Choirs,
Classic Cuvée NV
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"An altogether tasty and well-priced wine, bright and citrusy with lemons and pomelo, some hints of grass and just a bit of lees aroma." Tim Smith, Winesurfer Consulting. "A light, fresh and zesty wine with a lifted herbal and nettle note, leading to a nicely saline finish. Good value and a great gastro fizz in general." Nigel Lister, St. Swithins Wine Shippers.
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"Brilliant, with vanilla and cream, Starburst strawberry and some salty, saline notes." Harry Crowther, Grape Times UK. "This has minerality and citrus fruits, and a fantastic palate with good acidity." Michael Driscoll, Careys Manor Hotel & SenSpa. "A plush wine with some wellintegrated toasty elements, and toffee, vanilla and pear notes. This can go with heavier dishes, and will develop over time." Alonso Abed, Trivet.
AWARDS launched limited-edition cuvée, C.V. Chairman’s Vat Brut 2014 as well as its Mosaic Rosé Brut 2015 and Meunier Blanc de noirs Brut 2014. The Chairman’s Vat Brut 2014, was personally blended by Gerard Fox, husband of the estate’s viticulturist and oenologist Jonica Fox, who has traditionally overseen the creation of each Fox & Fox wine. As a limitededition, only 1,018 bottles of the 60% Pinot noir, 20% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot gris blend, which was disgorged in December 2019, have been produced. Commenting on Fox & Fox’s Chairman’s Vat Brut 2014, Riccardo Guzzardo, of Hakkasan, Mayfair said that the “very rich and muscular wine” had “good length” with “lime, lemon and tropical notes on the nose, along with some great minerality”. Gerard Fox said: “I wanted to craft a special sparkling wine which would reflect the exceptional quality of the grapes harvested from our vines. Following an incredibly wet winter, our 2014 vintage will always be remembered for its perfect flowering and fruit set conditions that paved the way for the formation of the most perfect bunches of grapes. A long, dry summer unfolded throughout August and our vines produced one of their best crops. Fruit was carefully hand-harvested in early October with grapes showing simply luscious fruit flavours.” Jonica Fox said: “To be awarded three gold medals in such a widely respected competition is a real honour. Most importantly, I am incredibly proud that Gerard’s wine has found favour with the Sommelier Wine Awards’ judges, all of whom are actively working within the UK wine trade. When we tasted our 2014 vintages in January 2019, we knew Gerard’s blend was going to be special and so we decided to age it for another year. Benefitting from five years’ lees aging, Chairman’s Vat offers an unmatched purity and subtle minerality, which is seductively easy to enjoy.” She added: “We of course are very proud of all of our wines. Meunier is a personal favourite of mine because I love the grape and the Mosaic Rosé is just a joy to share and enjoy, which is how we will be celebrating an unprecedented three gold medals from the Sommelier Wine Awards today.” In total eight English still and sparking wines have been awarded gold medals in this year’s SWA. Here’s what the judges had to say about them.
Danebury Vineyards,
Oxney Organic Estate,
Oxney Classic 2016
"Delicious crunchy apple and citrus fruit at first, with some yeasty bread notes too. There's superb balance here, with a delicate mousse and a crisp, clean finish." Daniel Eriksen, Anglian Country Inns. "This has many layers, with lovely ripe apple notes followed by aromas of fresh bread and pastry. Ideal for aperitifs, or even to accompany a whole meal." Chiara Sieni, MM Grocery.
Simpsons Wine Estate,
Derringstone Pinot Meunier 2018
Danebury Reserve 2018
"An exuberant nose with a floral component, leading to a palate that's sharp with bright acidity." Tanguy Martin, Blandford Comptoir. "A dry wine with bright acidity, lemon, lime and green apple skin notes and a limestone finish." Andres Ituarte, team leader. "A good wine for the price point, with salinity and grassiness, with notes of lemon peel and candied orange." Michael Driscoll, Careys Manor Hotel & SenSpa.
"With its floral notes of white blossom and green apple, this is a great aperitif wine with balanced acidity." Emanuel Pesqueira, Edwardian Hotels London. "Very enjoyable, with pineapple and mango on the creamy nose. A lovely wine overall." Michael Driscoll, Careys Manor Hotel & SenSpa. "Notes of honeysuckle and lemon juice leading to a mineral, leafy finish with some light spicy notes." Tom Forrest, team leader.
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PROFESSIONAL SERVICES an
ag i ng Di rec tor
Health and safety advice for vineyards
Ol iver Dale M
Providing a safe environment for harvest workers will be key to retaining a motivated team. Never have we approached a harvest period with more uncertainty over the availability and sourcing of harvest staff. The induction, training and supervision of staff is always challenging to manage. This is heightened by the threat of Covid-19 and the need to comply with ever changing guidance around social distancing and safe working. The infamous ‘R’ number will apparently drive future decisions in relation to any restrictions of movement or activity and consequently on business operations. History suggests that this disease will return with a second and possibly a third wave, that it will mutate and that the second wave potentially mutated will be more severe than the first. The focus over the last few weeks has been on protecting the well being of those to whom we as business leaders have within our care whilst they are working with us. However, your attention will increasingly become centred on getting the harvest in and maximising the quality and commercial performance of the crop. A key enabler of that will be the ability to keep the team fit and well and to avoid an outbreak of Covid-19 within the team since this diminishes their capability and prevents you achieving that ultimate goal of a crop harvested and safely in the tanks.
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For Fred Langdale of Exton Park, developing and honing a safety management system was a key objective when he approached Safety Revolution, an independent vineyard safety and well-being consultancy, in 2019 who conducted an audit. He said: “This new system has provided a platform from which to manage Covid-19 and prepare to welcome our harvest team and give them confidence that their work with us will be as safe as possible. As well as providing the necessary documentation the Safety Revolution work has delivered better induction and training plans and provided us with the means of simplifying and systemising our approach. It’s basically much easier to use." Oliver Dale, MD of Safety Revolution has worked closely with the Exton team to develop the system. “There are areas where good safety management can also have a very tangible benefit to the wider commercial considerations. “The key to preventing any loss of capacity evolving into such a scenario and to having a plan if challenged is to be able to demonstrate that you have taken all the steps that you can so far as is reasonably practicable to prevent those workers from becoming infected. “Early action is important and we have recently delivered to our vineyard clients a series of draft risk assessments to enable them to work with
their teams in a positive and caring way. We continue to monitor the situation and update and reissue those documents as and when there are material changes.” He added: “Additional measures that you should keep under regular review include ensuring that you or your managers are giving all employees clear guidance, with regular updates, on the correct use of equipment, social distancing, basic hygiene and segregation of activities wherever possible. These communications should be regularly refreshed and recorded. It will be important to be able to prove that these basic controls have been implemented effectively and daily disciplines maintained even through periods of peak work load such as harvest.” Safety Revolution are also launching a new App that will enable each team member to record those basic daily checks in a quick and effective way. This solution will be made available to all vineyard clients in the next few weeks in order that it is up and running before harvest. Fred Langdale added that he is looking forward to using the App during harvest as it will allow them to act faster if one worker displays Covid-19 symptoms. For more information visit www.safetyrevolution.co.uk Follow us on twitter @SafetyRev for the latest App news
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Can you tell me a little about your background?
I’m a television and film maker, so producer, director, write the theme tune, sing the theme tune. That's my trade - 20 plus years making documentaries for BBC or channels in America. I brought Professor Brian Cox to the BBC, made films on science, history, natural history, ancient history and sociology - basically everything. That's my trade. However, I'm trained as a biologist and I’ve got a doctrate in Australian frog calls. So turning my hand to growing grapes and vines, there's a whole other science, and I’ve kind of gone a little bit full circle.
Why did you want to set up your own vineyard?
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I sort of fell a little bit in love with wine in the early 2000s, not in a wine snob way, but I like wine and I like vineyards. I love the design and the spatial layout of vineyards. They are very OCD places; all lined up and all very regimented and I just like that. I had a notion in early 2000 that it would be fun to have a vineyard. Alongside my growing interesting in wine, and the love of vineyards, was a love of English vineyards. I walked before I ran, I got myself an allotment and I set up an urban vineyard. I went to Plumpton and had the crash course – so not a degree in oenology, I did their crash course in viticulture with Chris Foss back in 2007. I set up a little vineyard that was literally an allotment vineyard, where we had four rows of vines, Regent, Phoenix and Orion and in the alleys I grew butternut squash and whatever. What was good about that is I did the training at Plumpton but then I learnt on the job. Then we made homemade wines at home in the kitchen winery. I also wrote a book about it called The Urban Vineyard. That was the learning process, I have Stephen Skeleton's books always there in the background. Then the notion came, could we have a little commercial vineyard? That’s when we started looking at lots of land and it took a very long time.
When did you start work on Wildwood Vineyard?
It was in 2014 that we bought the land. It's basically a field and the copse of ancient woodland and that’s where you get the name Wildwood. Then I worked with Duncan McNeill. I've got a lot of training and I was on top of everything but it's nice to have a viticulture consultant say ‘yeah, this is a good place’. With his guidance it took 18 months to ameliorate the soil because it had just been left to grass. So, 18 months of chemicals and nutrients. We followed his guidance to the letter, and it worked out very well for us with the vineyard being established very well and very quickly. We planted Bacchus, two German clones of Pinot noir and Regent. It's only an acre under vine, we planted in 2016 and we had our first harvest in the amazing year of 2018.
,
wood Vi ne ild y
Paul Olding is a man who has spent years completing risk assessments for filming in the most dangerous locations but he's now working on one to get his vineyard back to work with social distancing in place.
l Oldi ng
W
In conversation...
Pau
d ar
SALES AND MARKETING
Was there a big difference going from an urban vineyard to your commercial vineyard?
The interesting thing is my urban vineyard had 40 vines on it, and our commercial vineyard has 60 vines in a row. I went from being able to go to the urban vineyard and do everything in 30 minutes to an hour, to something 30 to 40 times bigger. It wasn’t really a shock because it’s obvious if you think about it. I’m the one who’s trained, which limits what everyone else can do because most of it is trained work. You need to know what you’re doing. It was a question of time, as well as doing more training, courses at Plumpton, spraying courses and PPE. We had a lot more of those sorts of things that come with making a commercial vineyard; the licensing, the planning and we managed to get through all that. We had a fun time with planning permission for our two wooden sheds. We were helped immensely by WineGB. Then we had the same with getting a premises license. Again, it's just a lot of paperwork.
Will you be wearing face masks or putting anything else in place like that?
How has the lockdown affected you?
We closed immediately following the government guidelines. We assume we would have had a really bumper Easter weekend. It was really sad, I was sat there by myself having done a day's work thinking it’s such a shame that people aren’t enjoying this. At that time however, it was very much a complete lockdown and I had my DEFRA papers with me should anyone wish to question why I was not home. We closed the vineyard and the cellar door but as with many other vineyards we started doing deliveries and sending bottles out. But we are very small and I think our clientele and the people that come to us very much like coming to us to see the vineyard.
What have you done to allow you to reopen the vineyard and cellar door?
We've been closely following the government guidelines but actually I'm more closely following WineGB’s guidelines because their approach is both sensible and practical. I'm a member of WineGB, I really appreciate what they do and all the work they do. There’s very clear advice about social distancing and limiting numbers, but the vineyard is big enough to accommodate quite a lot of people. We also have a composting toilet and to use the toilet you'll be required to wipe everything down with antiseptic wipes. There won't be any tasting, because again that's the very sage advice coming from WineGB. However, people can come and buy our new 2019 Bacchus, Pinot Noir, Rose and Regent. We are doing a risk assessment for selling wine by the glass but in a plastic glass, so I pour it, they take it and then its thrown away. We’ll see how that goes. It’s about following the guidelines, being sensible and practical.
If WineGB said we needed to then we would, but it’s not currently in the guidance. It's tricky, because I suppose pouring a glass of wine for someone is quite a close proximity because my arm isn't that long. In that situation it’s a possibility because then you are giving confidence to the person. I think I'm going to work that through with our risk assessment.
You sound like someone who’s been doing a lot of risk assessment recently.
I worked in TV, I could do a risk assessment for anything. I’ve filmed in live volcanoes, hanging out of helicopters and underwater so I’ve done risk assessments that aren’t just box ticking, they’re how are we not going to die? It’s confidence though, you want to give your clients confidence that there’s no shortcuts being taken. There’s clear and obvious methods put in place – it's not just tick, tick, tick. At the same time it’s your responsibility to keep them safe and your staff safe.
What’s your biggest challenge in the vineyard at the moment?
The biggest challenge at the moment is man power. There’s only one of me and around 1900 vines. We did suffer from the late May frosts too. We didn’t have bouges, so we did a Heath Robinson. We did bonfires, incinerators all throughout the vineyard. Not 80 bouges, 10 fires and I drove around with the sprayer going to get the heat moving. But we still got quite frosted, so the challenge at the moment is nursing the vines back to health. It’s been quite exciting really, because I found out that the crispy bits at the end of the vine, well that’s terrible, but a lot of the stems are still very green and alive. At the very end, just next to the crispy bit, they’ve pushed out another bud. By not going through the vineyard and taking off all of the dead stuff, we just left it and treated it with a tonic and seaweed at the advice of our agronomist, and quite rightly. We’ve now not just got secondary buds but we’ve also got buds coming out of the burnt green stems. We are going to have a considerably lower crop because secondary buds by their nature are less fruity than primary but the fact that these wellestablished vines just shrugged that off is positive.
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Mat h e
WINE REVIEWS
w
Sustainability is vital
es Juk
www.matthewjukes.com paper-plane, vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk
> Forty Hall If you said, ‘name two sustainable wineries’ to me, my knee jerk response would be Ancre Hill and Forty Hall. Sustainability is now so vital to us and our planet that its message ought to be woven into every single business alive, but it is not. It is a real pain in the backside when you start to think about this vast subject and then try to find answers to every single minute question that it throws back at you. In the wine business, or rather the wine farming business, sustainability is seemingly more attainable than in many other walks of life. We have a good record of sustainable pioneers in the GB wine scene and we should support them as well as take note of the lengths that they go to to embody these worthy challenges. Sustainability, in its purest form, is the ability to exist without diminishing your environment. These days it more commonly means that us humans and the natural biosphere around us need to find agreeable harmony so that we can perfectly coexist. Of course, most of us, myself included, fall a long way short of an ideal sustainable standard, but some in our business excel at the care and attention to detail required to maintain a sustainable business and they inspire and illuminate the rest of us. So back to Ancre Hill and Forty Hall. Richard Morris, of Ancre Hill, wrote me a long email over a decade ago which inspired me to visit his estate in Monmouth. It was this snippet of a sentence which originally fired up my imagination, “with viticulture practised to a level and degree I doubt
Helping your business to grow
is commonly seen elsewhere in the UK”. Of course, he was right because Ancre Hill is a leader in the production of organic, biodynamic and natural wines as much as in the closed circle principles employed for sourcing of materials from within their farm and its near carbon-neutral set-up. Just taste my favourite current release to see just how pure and vital it is - 2018 Ancre Hill Chardonnay has superb balance, with a bitter grape skin tang and a juicy, lemongrass core. Forty Hall Vineyard, on the other hand, is not only a superbly-managed organic vineyard which makes delicious wines under the calm guidance of organic guru Will Davenport but it is also a fantastic community project, too. Please take the time to visit their website (www.fortyhallvineyard.com) to read about the exemplary, ecotherapy work they do. Buy a bottle of 2017 Forty Hall Vineyard Brut or 2018 Bacchus and drink the fruits of their labour while you learn more about this vineyard and its human-sustainable initiative. You will then truly understand the unavoidable link between the nervy, tender, balletic, refreshing and memorable wines and their creators. All of the profits from the sales of Forty Hall’s delicious wines are put back into the project to enable them to deliver health and well-being benefits to often vulnerable people in their local community. Let’s hope that every winery in our land makes more of an effort to pursue a sustainable path – there is no other realistic choice available. Opposite you will find three more remarkable examples of this genuinely life-fulfilling mantra.
Our wine industry experts can provide you with the advice you need to help your business grow. • • •
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Contact John Billings on 01903 234094 or email info@carpenterbox.com
MATTHEW JUKES I am a little late to the Harrow & Hope party given that they have been totting up awards and recognition for a few years now. I have always wondered when the wines would transition from honest and decent to those whose flavours truly represented the property with flavours that soar, and it seems to me that 2015 is the vintage. Henry Laithwaite is justifiably excited about his beloved, chalky, flint-gravel soils high above Marlow and he is working slavishly to extract as much gravitas as he can from this site. His organic treatments, composting and cover crop work is, after ten years, yielding the results he hoped for. The small matter of hammering in 35000 wooden stakes, to protect the vines, clearly focussed his mind on the task in hand! This 70% Pinot Noir 30% Pinot Meunier Blanc de Noirs is my favourite wine released from H&H and even barrel fermentation cannot hide the raw energy, derived from this remarkable vineyard, in this tangy but already flirtatious wine. Harrow & Expectation has arrived.
2015 Harrow & Hope, Blanc de Noirs £38.00
www.laithwaites.co.uk www.harrowandhope.com
2015 Albury Estate, Biodynamic Wild Ferment, Blanc de Blancs £49.95 www.alburyvineyard.com
Two years ago, I wrote up 2017 Albury Organic Silent Pool Rosé in Vineyard stating that it was near-perfect in every respect. The 2019 would have taken its place in this epic trio were it not for my featured wine gliding past in and onto the page. Before I mention my featured BdB, I must let you know that I will be amazed if there is a finer or more elegant English still rosé release this year and so you must track a bottle down. But onto the superstar sparkler – a wine which blew my palate away. Only 600 bottles were made of this 100% biodynamic, wild yeast fermented Chardonnay and it is utterly sensational. Albury is a haven for bugs, bees, butterflies and biodynamism and this sherbety, ultra-fresh and super-delicate wine shows gossamer lightness coupled with steely integrity on its palate. I love the story, the packaging and the flavour here and it is the sort of wine which would convert any sustainabilityatheists to the cause.
In addition to the notable sustainable practices used in the finest vineyards and wineries in our country, Kristin Syltevik, the mind behind Oxney, listed for me a load of other random things that she thought were important for Oxney’s deeply felt sustainability position. Biomass boilers using their own coppiced wood; Fendt tractors which use less fuel; electric vehicles for deliveries; manure from the farmer next door; composted prunings and marc are returned to the vineyard; upcycling, most notably the shepherd’s huts in the vineyard which are partly fabricated from recycled corrugated metal from a big feed tank and oak felled and milled on the farm and, my favourite, the satisfying switch from Sellotape to recyclable paper tape. I wanted to mention two wines in this piece, but thanks to this fascinating list there is only space for one and I have left the best until last. My featured wine comes from the Thomson Block and it is hand-picked and barrel fermented, using 50% wild yeasts. This is the most resonant and beautiful English wine I have ever tasted and I have waited 34 years to say this. Finely assembled, nothing short of exquisite and refreshingly innocent this Chardonnay is the proud possessor of a firm core of mineral-soaked fruit and this makes is a phenomenal release. I will go further – I cannot think of a way in which this wine could be improved and this sets it apart from every other English wine I have tasted. By definition, this is my first ever 20/20 scoring English wine.
2018 Oxney Organic, Chardonnay, East Sussex £20.00
www.brooksteedbottlejugdeptltd.selz.com www.oxneyestate.com
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J U N E 2020 | V I N E YA R D
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EDITOR'S VISIT ecca Ch ap Reb lin
Escape to the country
or Ed it
Owner of Redhill Farm Estate Henry Boorman decided to invest in vines rather than the stockmarket in his attempt to break free of the London rat race. Rebecca Chaplin finds out more. There are three ideas that sit at the core of Redhill Estate Vineyard – sensible, simple and great communication. Owner Henry Boorman has been at Redhill Estate in Kent for eight years now. After ten years working in design in London he made a deal with himself that he would find a way to get out of the city. “I call this constructive alcoholism,” he tells me. “It’s ensuring your own supply, but it’s also a hobby and I would never want to make anything that I wouldn’t want to drink. “I look out of the window here and I can see for 40 miles. It’s beautiful. You just think you’re on a
"There are three ideas that sit at the core – sensible, simple and great communication."
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constant holiday and that’s the scary bit.” The design element shines through on the very simple and elegant bottle design, which clearly shows Redhill Farm with the corks topped with a ribbon by hand. Simple these things might be, but in no way does that mean that the Redhill Farm Estate team are giving themselves an easy life. Making wine wasn’t always Henry’s dream though. In fact, he was making sloe gin in London long before wine in Kent was even an idea. He said: “I started making sloe gin in Brixton, it was a little garage on a council estate, and we were putting nice, sexy labels on it. We called it Brixton Estate Sloe Gin and everybody thought it
was from some fancy Kent estate or something, and actually it was made in a garage on the back of a council estate. “When we started to grow, everyone heard our story and they liked it even more because it was so tongue in cheek. All around Brixton and Clapham it was really doing quite well. “I was running out of sloes really, so I thought if I take on a field or farm lease, maybe I can use the hedges around the edge to ensure that I get sloes and nobody picks them. If you ever go to the bushes in January, February and March, trying to be the first ones out, and somebody has already picked them before you it’s so
EDITOR'S VISIT inconvenient, when you’re trying to make sloe gin! “So I had this field and I knew it had bushes around, and after that it was really a case of what do you put in the middle of it. One of my friends said: “It’s a great view but I bet you can’t make it any better.” “Then my other friend joked that it was south facing therefore perfect for a vineyard and at the time I said ‘what, in Kent?’ Here we are eight years later. It’s now not just one acre of vines anymore, it’s 21 acres or thereabouts.” As Henry tells me, it just sort of made sense, and from there he began filling the gap in the middle of his hedges with vines. Now that gap is filled with rows of wonderful vines, where Henry has grown a wide variety of grapes, including Bacchus, Ortega, Rondo, Pinot noir and Cabernet noir. The latter he admits is ‘fantastic’ but produces so few grapes from each vine it’s a struggle to make more than a few bottles. However, he now sells a very wide range of wines on top of that. There are four sparkling; a Brut, Rosé, Reserve Blush and Blanc de Noir. As well as two whites from the Ortega and Bacchus, a Rondo Rosé and two more reds, with one using a blend of the grapes and another solely from the Pinot noir. This gives him plenty to offer customers
when he typically goes out to markets with his refurbished horsebox, but for now it’s living on the estate. He said: “I looked at different types of investment, but I was no good at the stock market or ISAs, and there were even worse returns. You never knew if you were investing in something that was green and sustainable; in something good or bad for the environment. “I just wanted to try to be good at investing and make an effort to do something positive for the environment. I figured that I had this sloe gin business that I was playing around with and I thought well maybe if I increase that then I’ll make some money and decided to run with it, basically.” He explained: “I’d spent 10 years working in design in town and was really bored of 18-hour days. It was really fun but I’d just had enough. I made a deal with myself that 10 years in I wanted to escape from London because it’s just a rat race, it’s madness. “I didn’t want to be like everyone else where they’re struggling to pay the mortgage, you have to go to work and you feel committed. “Sometimes you’ve got to mix it up when you get the opportunity. You get the opportunity to work on a piece of land – what a great thing to do. What’s the point of paying to go to the gym when you can invest and do a bit of farm gym.”
Sustainability
Henry’s simplicity at every stage can be felt throughout the vineyard – from the growing to the selling. He explained how crucial the sustainability of what they do is, but how he approaches these choices sensibly to reduce the energy they waste in producing the wine and keeping things local, rather than setting out hard and fast rules about what can and can’t be done. “I love the concept of sustainability. The weird thing is everyone has their own view on what the word sustainability is. For some people different actions are weighted in different ways. We like to approach our problems in a sensible and ethical way,” he explains to me. “It can be everything from environmental factors to making sure the prices of your products are sustainable so people come back and buy again and that the bottles that you use are easy for people to recycle.” He added: “If you can reduce the energy you’re using to make the wine then that’s the way forward, in my opinion. If you can reduce the amount of petrol burnt in the vineyard by not sitting in a tractor all day, not worrying if the grass has got a little longer. That will actually force the vine to go deeper for water and nutrients and improve its root structure, to find that chalky layer in the subsoil.” There’s a whole host of ways he’s managed >>
27
> Paul and Anita Jones enjoy a bottle of wine and the view in the grounds of the Redhill Estate
> The corks have the vineyards social media addresses on them
> The horsebox bar in the courtyard of the wine estate
<< to look at their processes and make them friendly for the environment, from the way the vineyard is planted to the way the wine is bottled and labelled. Henry shows me a list as long as my arm of actions they’ve taken to make sure nothing is wasted, including things they are producing that can add a new lease of life to products they can outsource second hand or as waste products made into something new. “We were the first people to use a type of cork made from waste sugar cane and clever biopolymers. It's a waste product that they aerate and it’s all made closer than cork is grown in Portugal. There are loads of processes to making cork and that all takes energy, and it’s all done out of this country, whereas if you can find products that are made closer, it’s going to have an inherent benefit,” he tells me. “When we plant the vines, we use mycorrhiza, a special bacteria for the soil, that help provides nutrients and creates this mycelium network. That means we don’t have to put as much fertiliser on the vines. These little bacteria things are doing it for us.” It would be easy to misinterpret Henry’s strategy as an all-natural and more laidback approach to vineyard management. In fact, there’s a far more detailed assessment going on to the point that they are using technology to predict vineyard pests and reduce using pesticides. Henry explained: “In the UK its recommended to spray vines every seven to 10 days. We are developing a network of little solar powered sensors that feedback microclimate data so we can apply algorithms which predict our risk of vineyard pests. This means we can target areas and only spray when necessary. “When we trialled the program in 2018 we reduced the amount of chemicals used in the vineyard by over half and haven’t looked back.”
Community
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The vineyard doesn’t just make an environmental impact, it makes a social one. It isn’t just the vineyard located at the farm, the other buildings are let out to small businesses, Novus Art Studio, Riding School and Three Mills Cross Fit Gym, making a strong community. Not only that, Henry tells me they have on-site plumbers which reduces the cost and impact of having one visit the site every time they need it.
Giving things a new lease of life isn’t always out of a want but sometimes a need – especially in the case of the previously mentioned Redhill Farm horsebox bar that, when it was simply an unloved horsebox, was a thorn in Henry’s side. “It was always in the way; I kept having to shift it around and chase the owner to take it away. It reached the point where I said if you don’t collect it by this date I’m giving you £50 and keeping it,” he said. However, when they were offered the opportunity to sell wine at a pumpkin picking event it became the perfect venue for his new portable bar. Since then they’ve also taken up a regular spot at King’s Cross station selling wine by the glass. It all works perfectly as part of Henry’s marketing strategy to keep customers happy and coming back, rather than pursuing new customers who might only buy once a year. The choices made here aren’t a secret either, Henry wants to share them with his customers in an honest way so they can understand the value of the wine, saying: “I think as long as you’re transparent with your customers and you say ‘this is what it costs me, I’m not trying to rip you off’ they then see the value and what goes into each bottle.” He said: “Do it affordably for your customers. The benefit of doing it at cost means you’re going to sell out. You might not make money the first year but you can grow what you do the next year. It’s economies of scale.” Redhill Farm Estate also operates a membership club, where those who sign up get regular wine deliveries, something Henry explains is cost effective “if you can get the same people to buy your wine regularly, it makes the marketing a lot cheaper than trying to sell to people who’ll buy one bottle a year”. In Henry’s seven years building the vineyard, he has also built a network of contacts within in the industry, while watching new growers begin their journey nearby. Over the year’s he’s supplied grapes for several wineries or other growers, while calling on a friend or two for help as well. He explains: “You’re always your own worst critic so you’ve just got to keep working and looking. Sometimes faults can be good, it’s those intricacies and learnings each time that mean you’re going to make better wine. >>
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EDITOR'S VISIT << I like to work with so many other people and producers. I like growing grapes for other people. “There’s been Divergent, Sergio at Black Book, London Cru, Robinson’s Winery, we deliver grapes all the way to Cornwall. It’s been great, we’ve done stuff for canned wine that went into Waitrose, we’ve sold to Denbies, everybody pretty much.” He added: “We’re really lucky we get a high price for the grapes and they come back again the next year. I’m really chuffed. “We generally grow 60 to 70 tonnes of grapes. From that we process about 15 to 20 tonnes, so we generally take about 20% of the fruit that we grow. Up until last year we were doing all the winemaking on the farm here, and last year we
> Henry Boorman with his fiancé Lydia
30
just ran out of space. Because we sell grapes to other people we picked up the phone and said ‘anybody got a spare tank or two?’” He added: “It’s always secondhand first. We look for the equipment we need from our friends and online first before calling up the factories and distributors. We do this not just for cost but to give a perfectly good machine a new lease of life, to help our friends. “It’s really useful having that relationship. I love it because if we didn’t sell grapes, if we did it all in house, we wouldn’t have this opportunity. “We try and buy machines second hand because it’s local and a bit cheaper, but you’re also getting first-hand knowledge from people who’ve used it for a while and that means they’re a great resource as soon as something goes wrong!”
The grape growing climate in the UK – and the climate itself – has changed over the years since Henry took a punt on investing in a hobby rather than stocks, something he admits has probably been far more challenging but also more rewarding. As other vineyards pop-up nearby, surely it’s an indication that his choice was a good one. “Growing red grapes in the UK – I think somebody should have shot me in the beginning for that idea,” he joked. “We’re just over 51% red in the vineyard. The idea is that climate change is going to keep on going but, you know what, we do technically have a good climate or a good case for reds because Gravesend is the hottest place in the country. “Since we’ve planted here, four vineyards
have popped up within the next mile and a bit. I worked out the other day it was something like £4 million of investment and you just don’t get that between two little mini-villages without this kind of industry. I think it’s amazing. That sort of money isn’t really spent outside of the city or the housing sector. He added: “I think it’s great because it’s invigorating these small, old farms. Very often the farm sells its land to an arable farmer, or leases it, and the main house generally goes into redevelopment as housing. I think it’s sad because the identity of them is ripped out, there’s no heritage, but I think vineyards preserve that. “The house that we got is huge and the bank said you have to live in it, you can’t rent it out
because otherwise it’s unaffordable. So we use it as a house and wine tastings ad hoc. It’s great because we’ve had to do the place up and spend money on it, and because we had a need for it we’re improving it and keeping the heritage. We’re keeping it going, so to speak.” The process continues, as Henry works to his sensible and simple plan of reusing what they can, reducing wasted energy and making wine he loves to drink. He’s continuing to find new ways to use every part of the vineyard. Henry's next plan is to distil excess wine to make a base spirit. One day he hopes they will be able to use to use this to make sloe gin or even a fortified port, and now rather than the vineyard being a byproduct of the sloe gin; the vineyard’s byproducts will become the sloe gin.
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2020 Preview Top speakers, seminars and plen more on offer at Viti-Culture LIVE! – now only a month away
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The Viti-Culture LIVE! 2020 line-up has now been revealed, boasting a schedule of top speakers and master classes that you won’t want to miss. As this magazine arrives with you, we are only a month away from the inaugural virtual Viti-Culture LIVE! show. Although we won't be meeting in the flesh for the event, it’s now easier than ever to attend the show from the comfort of your own home. In 2019, the show was held for the first time at Plumpton College and hailed a huge success, with delegates from across the industry and the country attending the show. However, with the current crisis limiting the possibility of this the Viti-Culture team have created a first of its kind, online version of the event. Viti-Culture LIVE!, which Vineyard Magazine is once again media partner for, will now take place on 9 July – hosted completely from the www.viti-culture.com website. The event will still showcase the same level of fantastic seminars and give attendees the opportunity to talk with exhibitors, using live chat to connect them on the day. These virtual booths will then remain live on the website until 31 December, something no other virtual show is offering currently and the Viti-Culture team hope this will help to support the industry through unprecedented times. The headline seminar will be presented by Master of Wine (MW) Richard Bampfield, joined by Stephen Skelton MW and vineyard manager at Ridgeview Matt Strugnell. The seminar is called ‘Viticulture: Tackling the thorniest issues’ and the trio will discuss the biggest issues facing the UK wine industry currently.
J U N E 2020 | V I N E YA R D
First of its kindonline version There will be five other seminars throughout the day, all of which can be seen in the timetable (on page 34), with some outstanding speakers covering topics from protecting against diseases and getting your yield forecasting right, to a look into the viticulture industry in South America. The day will conclude with a social wine tasting, hosted by Grape Vine Events, assisted by Plumpton College and WineGB. Further announcements will be made on this as we advance towards show day. A host of Show updates and announcements will also be made via the Grape Vine Events newly launched forum for the industry – www.soil2cellar.com. To add even more value for vineyards, the show is also offering them free space on the website to create their own virtual cellar door, especially useful for those who don’t have an online presence already and as a supporting outlet for those already established. Event organisers, Grape Vine Events said: “As a visitor, what could be better than viewing the vast array of supplies and services available to viticulturists, attending high-level seminars and be able to view and shop at an array of UK vineyards virtual cellar doors all in one place?
Everything will remain in place until 31 December 2020, so visitors will still be able to pop in right up to the end of the year! No other virtual show is offering such an extended platform – and we are proud to be able to support our industry to this extent through these uncharted times.” Whether you’re already an established grower or interested in starting up, Viti-Culture provides the perfect opportunity to speak to experts about any aspect of wine production. The exhibitors and speakers will appeal to those who are establishing a vineyard as well as those interested in packaging and marketing alongside many other topics. To get access to the seminars and exhibitors, keep checking the www.viti-culture.com website. The first glimpse of the new setup will be appearing soon, and attendees will be able to register to get access on the day.
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Viticulture: Learning from experience
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J U N E 2020 | V I N E YA R D
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Latest machinery to be showcased Kirkland UK is excited to announce its participation with Viti-Culture LIVE! on 9 July. Its specialist vineyard machinery includes Antonio Carraro tractors, Orizzonti pruning and cultivating equipment, Giant multipurpose wheel loaders, Kioti utility vehicles and their own Kirkland and Orvin brands. As UK importers of Antonio Carraro Tractors, Kirkland will showcase these compact machines ranging from 26hp-98hp. Ideal for vineyards, the tractors can come with a low-profile cab measuring just 1740mm high making them especially useful for use under low canopies and leafy foliage whilst ensuring complete protection in Cat 4 spray cabs and driver comfort. Also, certain models in the range are available as reverse drive, hydrostatic and CVT transmission and of course the ultimate Quad Track Mach 4. These tractors can also be as narrow as 1060mm, perfect for travelling down tight rows. Also on show will be the versatile and robust Orizzonti pruning and cultivating equipment. Providing solutions for every size of vineyard, Orizzonti offers a huge range of machinery including pruners and trimmers, leaf removers and pre-pruners, shredders and flails, inter-row cultivators, subsoilers, pruning sweeps and mounted forklifts. Kirkland strive to provide vineyards and growers with a complete package of quality products and solutions that answer all your machinery needs. Talk to Kirkland about any specialist builds you require as their skilled engineers can either alter an existing machine or fabricate something unique and tailored for you.
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VITI-CULTURE LIVE!
Viticulture: Tackling the thorniest issues The headline seminar this year will be presented by Richard Bampfield MW, with Stephen Skelton MW and Ridgeview Wine Estate vineyard manager Matthew Strugnell. They will be tackling the topics of yield, frost prevention, and weed, pest and disease control. A session not to be missed by anyone in the industry looking to hear from very exceptional experience. Headline seminar Richard Bampfield passed his Master of Wine exam in 1990, having graduated in French from Cambridge in 1981 he immediately decided the wine trade was where he could put the language to best use. Richard Bampfield has worked around the world in vineyards and wine cellars, as well as managing retail wine shops in the North West of England for JW Lees Brewers for seven years After passing his MW, he joined the Australian producer Brown
Richard Bampfield MW Brothers and managed their European operations until 1999. He left them to set up his own company, specialising in public relations and offering wine talks, tours and courses. His clients include Lidl, Albert Bichot (Burgundy), Leith's School of Food and Wine, Santa Rita (Chile) and Chateau Brown. Richard Bampfield is a past Chairman of the Association of Wine Educators and was the European Champagne Ambassador 2009.
See next page for more speakers
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J U N E 2020 | V I N E YA R D
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VITI-CULTURE LIVE!
Stephen Skelton MW Stephen Skelton has been involved with growing vines and making wine since 1975. He spent two years in Germany, working at Schloss Schönborn in the Rheingau and studying at Geisenheim, the world-renowned winegrowing and winemaking college, with the late Professor Helmut Becker. In 1977 he returned to the UK to establish the vineyards at Tenterden in Kent (now the home of the UK’s largest wine producer, Chapel Down Wines), and made wine there for 22 consecutive vintages. From 1988 to 1991 he was also winemaker and general manager at Lamberhurst Vineyards, at that time the largest winery in the UK. He now works as a consultant to vineyards and wineries in the UK and is currently setting up vineyards to produce sparkling wine.
Matthew Strugnell, Ridgeview Wine Estate Ridgeview Wine Estate says that Matthew Strugnell is responsible for making sure they have the best grapes they need to produce fantastic wine. He started working for Ridgeview in 2002 and now has responsibility of all their vineyards in which he works tirelessly to ensure the highest quality fruit. He also provides valued advice and support to all Ridgeview’s partnership vineyards.
Alexandre Macedo, Yara UK In this session, experts from chemical and fertiliser specialists Yara will present two sessions with a focus on understanding how certain chemicals can improve your crops. The first called ‘Key to managing nitrogen and iron applications in sparkling wine viticulture’ will be presented by Fabrice Cabot from Yara France. He is agronomic advisor for the French wine making regions with many years of experience under his belt.
Giz Gaskin, Yara UK The second, called ‘The importance of foliar applied calcium in viticulture’ will be with Yara UK fruit expert Giz Gaskin, who has eight years of experience in the fruit industry both in the UK and abroad. Yara UK technical and portfolio director Alexandre Macedo will also be presenting a seminar called ‘An overview of the South American viticulture industry’, giving an interesting and insightful look into how the industry works there and lessons that can be taken from them. Alexandre Macedo has worked in the South American region with its growers for many years and will be sharing his valuable experiences.
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J U N E 2020 | V I N E YA R D
This seminar, titled ‘Romeo: A new innovative solution to control key foliar diseases’ takes a look at a new and innovative way to control foliar fungal diseases, such as botrytis, powdery mildew, and downy mildew. As the session’s name suggests, this new product is called Romeo, a biofungicide based on cerevisane and is developed by Fargo in partnership with Agrauxine. The seminar will be presented by representatives from the two companies behind Romeo, global technical manager biocontrol at Agrauxine, Damien Verger, and technical development specialist at Fargo, Ant Surrage.
Ant Surrage, Fargro Ant Surrage has been with Fargo for two years and is currently at the forefront of integrating new technologies to optimise IPM programming and is working on several projects to further advance this field. These technologies range from biopesticides to the integration of data driven solutions in crop protection and integrated pest management programming.
Damien Verger, Agrauxine Damien Verger is in charge of trials implementation and finding new targets for Agrauxine’s biocontrol range of products. After a year working for Bayer as a field experimental technician, he joined Agrauxine in late 2018 as a technical support for the French commercial team. He was then promoted to work internationally as technical manager.
Greg Dunn, Plumpton Wine Division In this first seminar from Plumpton College, head of its wine division Dr Greg Dunn will look at yield forecasting and how to get it right. Having studied a doctorate in botany, Dr Dunn has spent the last two decades developing extensive international research experience, education and industry networks through many collaborative and viticulture-based projects. He has worked for DPI Victoria, the University of Melbourne, and the National Wine and Grape Industry Centre at Wagga Wagga, where he was deputy director. He also took on the role of associate editor and then deputy editor of the Australian Journal of Grape and Wine Research (AJGWR).
Dr Akshay Baboo, Plumpton College The second seminar of the day from Plumpton will be presented by Dr Akshay Baboo, programme manager for BSc, FdSc, viticulture and oenology and is called ‘Choosing the right rootstock: Intersection of sustainability, organoleptic potential, and yield’. Dr Baboo’s is an expert when it comes to rootstock, having completed his doctoral thesis based on work with 26 different commercial and three experimental rootstocks crosses, grown across three experimental sites in the La Clape and Montpellier, France, in Milazzo, Italy and in Geisenheim, Germany. After that he consulted for 18 small vineyards across Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, Greece and Germany in rootstocks selection and rootstock and scion compatibility. In India he consulted for India's most awarded winery, and in the one and a half years there, helped to plant more than 1475 hectares spread over four states and 17 districts with very varied soils, climate, and geography.
TEL: 01622 861989
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J U N E 2020 | V I N E YA R D
39
WINEMAKING
M a rk C
ru
m
n pto
Low SO2 strategies Grape expectations at bioprotection in the vineyard and winery. Great wine starts in the vineyard, and managing the health of grapes is a challenge especially in the UK’s temperate climate. Disease pressures and humidity/ rainfall pose significant threats as do the general wildlife and insects. Controlling and managing the microflora in the vineyard and winery is one of the key undertakings of all great estates. Sulphur historically has been used to manage much of the microflora and manage oxygen in the winery and has great properties and side activities on colour and aroma extraction. However, reducing the use of sulphites in the vineyard and winery is a key trend in the market and there are some great alternative tools to achieve this. Recent commercial cultivation of Non-Saccharomyces strains of the Torulaspora delbrueckii and Metschnikowia pulcherrima species, found, naturally occurring in vineyard sites, have been used to good effect. These strains selected from among the grape’s indigenous flora for their organoleptic neutrality will colonise the medium and control the microflora in the pre-fermentation stages. The Lafazym Egide that comes in 500g packs can be sprayed on the grapes at
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harvest as well as added in the dry form. Some people have sprayed the vineyards with this microflora to boost the populations on the grapes after inflorescence/fruit set although it is typically recommended at harvest. Combining these two high-implantationcapacity species, the one cryophilic and more SO2-resistant (Torulaspora – in sequences where SO2 is added to grapes) and the other, particularly healthy during grape inoculation (Metschnikowia), ensures that the medium is protected by micro-organisms producing positive results in a wide range of circumstances. The bioprotective effects of this preparation have been backed up by studies: ◆ Colonisation of the medium, without any detected fermentation activity (no assimilation of sugars or nitrogen, no difference in turbidity levels at the end of the settling process). ◆ Restriction of the growth of indigenous flora. ◆ Implantation of the inoculated Saccharomyces cerevisiae strain facilitated. Other strategies to manage microbes and bacteria in the winery in preparation for harvest are enzymatic applications such as
Bacticontrol and Microcontrol. These consist of a combination of chitosan, lysozyme and enzymes for reducing the microbial load, as well as protecting wines against certain unfavourable microorganisms and if necessary against lactic bacteria. An important consideration depending on your wine style and wine making approach. ◆ Reduction of the overall microbial load (yeasts, lactic bacteria, acetic acid bacteria). ◆ Plays an “antioxidant” role by eliminating oxidised and oxidisable compounds in white and rosé wines. ◆ Improvement of wine clarification and filtration. ◆ Treatment is possible before alcoholic fermentation. Using this formula between AF and MLF can slow down the beginning of MLF. ◆ Microbiological protection of white, red and rosé wines following fermentation. ◆ Makes it possible to slow down or even stop MLF in progress or avoid its onset (treatment is possible before or after AF). ◆ Synergistic effect of the ß-glucanases and lysozyme on the lactic bacteria, particularly on Pediococcus filaments (the action of the enzyme on the polysaccharides forms a diffuse barrier around the bacteria that can hinder the action of lysozyme). A low SO2 strategy combined with alternative approaches can help you achieve the best quality wine style and potentially something with a point of difference especially if you can experiment with CO and sequential inoculation of non-sachorymyces yeast. Sulphur is still a great strategy for wine making with liquid SO2 options such as the Bisulfite and Solution range make much easier calculations and management. Ultimately the tool box that Laffort offer for winemaking is extremely detailed and comprehensive that has been part of the wine world for the past 120 years. Check out their new website with more helpful instructions and protocols.
www.BruniErben.co.uk 07805 081677 paper-plane, Mark.Crumpton@BruniErben.co.uk
GRAPE GROWING
The vine post
C her r y
Co ns e tabl
Working with Gripple.
To many people, the name Gripple will be a familiar one, synonymous with quality, innovation and durability. Vine-Works Ltd are proud to have worked with Gripple for over 10 years, installing their products in hundreds of vineyards all over the country. In 1984, wire salesman Hugh Facey started production in Sheffield, manufacturing field fencing, barbed wire and fencing staples. In 1985, he came up with the idea for the iconic Gripple fastener after discussing the woes of fencing with a frustrated farmer. After many stages of development and tweaking the design, the first Gripple wire joiner was manufactured in 1988 and a year later Gripple Ltd was registered as a separate company. Fast-forward to 2006 and the development of the new flagship range of Gripple Plus. A new sleek, ergonomic shape increased working loads and featured positional adjustment both forwards and backwards prior to tension being applied. A key highlight in Gripple Ltd’s history was in 2013 when the company achieved 100% Employee Ownership. “The Gripple product range is innovatively designed and highly engineered with simplicity in mind. By delivering a significantly simpler system compared to traditional methods, and eradicating the need to tie and knot wires, [they can] vastly reduce labour and installation times.”
Gripple Mediums The Gripple Plus range combines a zinc housing with a sintered ceramic roller, giving maximum corrosion resistance while maintain strength and functionality. The patented push-fit system “utilises ceramic rollers to actively grip the wire while under tension, while still allowing for additional tension to be applied at any time.” This provides a strong, fast and economical way to install and maintain a solid trellis structure. By using the Gripple Tensioning Tool, (which is cleverly designed to work equally effectively for left- and right-handed users) with the Gripple Mediums,
you avoid the need to tie, bend or knot your vineyard wires. This optimizes the durability and longevity of your wire and ensures the integral strength is never compromised. With a high load capacity, Gripple Mediums are adjustable and can be re-tensioned year after year.
Gripple Anchors All sizes of Gripple anchors are resistant to corrosion and form a secure fixing point below the ground from which to attach your trellising system. They are easy to install in a wide variety of soils, saving time and labour. No pre-digging is required and the use of a Gripple Drive Rod for installation ensures minimal ground disturbance and prevents any damage to the anchor. Typically soils with a high sand, silt or alluvial content are best suited to an Anchor 3, whilst heavier clay soils will require the larger Anchor 4. However, you should always discuss this with your vineyard consultant.
Gripple GPAK Tiebacks Attaching your anchor to your end post is made quick and easy using Gripple GPAK tiebacks. The wire rope has a high-grade galvanised coating for maximum corrosion resistance. Gripple’s latest innovation is the addition of an universal wire protector included in all GPAK packs. This protects the wires going through galvanised posts, “rotating to the natural angle of the wire and sharing the wire load over the entire hole area, eliminating ‘pinch’ points. Because the part is diecast from zinc, as opposed to steel, it will never rust or corrode. This innovation ensures that the post bracing kit will never be damaged by wire movement caused by wind or machinery.” Vine-Works Ltd have tried and tested Gripple’s trellising products for the past 10+ years and can attest to their exceptional quality and longevity. We are proud to be the UK distributor for Gripple’s vineyard range – no vineyard should be without strong support from Gripple products!
www.vine-works.com paper-plane, sales@vine-works.com 01273 891777 J U N E 2020 | V I N E YA R D
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AGRONOMY
Rob S
ders un
Agronomy diary
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per Coo
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Much depends on the weather over coming months, but as that is beyond growers’ control, the focus must be on targeted agronomy to maximise inflorescence development from whichever bud it comes, whilst not compromising bud and cane growth for next season’s crop. Foliar nutrition and biostimulants are key tools for this, providing a wide range of nutrients, hormones, amino acids and other biological compounds to promote recovery and renewal. Hopefully all growers that experienced frost damage will have applied their first application to kick-start regrowth, but it is essential to maintain momentum. In many cases it will be necessary to repeat applications on a monthly, fortnightly, 10-day, or even weekly basis, depending on crop requirements, strength of regrowth and products used. Many biostimulant options are available so tailor product choice carefully. Early application of a combined foliar fertiliser and biostimulant product, (such as Megafol or a seaweed extract as in Kelpak or Maxicrop) has worked well for many especially when alternated with the Cultigrow CBL plus Phosphite mix. Glycine-betaine found in products such as Maxicrop or Folwin (from Lallemand) will help overcome the abiotic stress vines are under and promote rapid bud development. If the weather remains kind it is surprising what growers can achieve by the end of the season. For those lucky enough to have experienced little damage, Lallemand also produces Pinot
r
is
Use foliar nutrition and biostimulants to minimise frost losses. After May frosts damaged vines in many parts of the country, Hutchinsons’ Chris Cooper and Rob Saunders examine how foliar nutrition and biostimulants could help crops recover some of the lost yield potential. Growing fruit, particularly grapes, in a cool climate such as the UK is not without its challenges. The late frost in May, the latest in decades, damaged vines to varying degrees dependant on site, cultivar and frost protection measures deployed. Those that managed to get through with little damage to primary flowers could be set for an early harvest, while those who had the primaries knocked out must push secondary and tertiary buds into action to throw out flowers and set a reasonable crop. Growers with intermediate damage must choose between selective early bunch-thinning to even-up ripening, or, where the proportion of crop arising from secondary buds is small, it could be retained to contribute acidity alongside a main crop that is allowed to fully mature. This second strategy requires a little luck in a sunny autumn, alongside robust botrytis protection. Either way, any damage to inflorescences developing from primary buds will inevitably hit yields, as regrowth from secondary buds inherently only produces 50-70% of the full crop, with growth now set back two to three weeks.
a
Pro-flowering which aims to promote fruit set, reducing millerandage in specific varieties (Pinot and Chardonnay) which are notorious for uneven development within the bunches. It has been shown that a timely application of this naturallyderived product will promote a more even set. As we head into flowering, it is important to have a well-planned nutrition programme using advisor and grower knowledge to avoid any sub-clinical nutrient shortages. Leaf analysis around this point is very helpful, although we accept in some cases flowering may now be in July. An important part of the nutrition strategy is to apply calcium through flowering and again at early berry formation, to guard against Early Bunch Stem Necrosis (EBSN), a physiological disorder associated with a magnesium, calcium and nitrogen imbalance. Although not widespread every year, it can be extremely damaging, with yield losses of 50% reported in the past, and we are trying to avoid further yield losses this year. Boron will help pollen tube germination, which will assist with fruit set, although take care with tank mixes as boron is not compatible with some fungicide formulations. By the end of July most growers will have an idea of likely crop yields come autumn, and in consultation with their advisor will adapt programmes to suit.
www.hlhltd.co.uk paper-plane information@hlhltd.co.uk 01945 461177
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Cowderoy Op o e J
ns t io ra
Representing you
Ma nager
Working in partnership with Vineyard Magazine for a developing UK wine industry.
If you are interested in wine production in the UK find out more about WineGB and join us. Visit our website www.winegb.co.uk
neWee i hW
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Due to the uncertainty of the times we have moved this year’s dates to Saturday 20 - Sunday 28 June. Our aim is to promote that our Great British vineyards are open for business and to encourage retail sales for the summer. Activities will include all sorts of online/virtual activities and hopefully the news that some vineyards are open to visit. It will be driven by a strong social media campaign. There will be a range of digital tools to help promote activity. We will use the Week to announce WineGB’s Sustainability Scheme, accompanied by PR and a greater online presence on the website and social media. With summer underway and our focus on the future ever more paramount, this is perfect timing to highlight this fantastic industry initiative that lies at the heart of many of our producers whatever size.
#Englis
English Wine Week 2020
e at B r i i n ta
WineGB is the national trade body representing the vine growers and winemakers of Great Britain from the largest producers to small hobbyists. Our members work together with the organisation to develop strategy, expertise and marketing opportunities for long-term, sustainable success.
@W i
ne G
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Sustainable Wines of Great Britain: Carbon Calculator
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‘The Carbon Footprint of Vineyards’, is the sixth SWGB bulletin and links to the WineGB Carbon Calculator tool. This is probably the most sophisticated and comprehensive tool of its kind in the world of wine and enables producers to measure, and ultimately reduce, their greenhouse gas and carbon emissions. It is free to use for all WineGB members. There is an explanatory video on the web page with a ‘How to’ guide and a webinar will take place on 10 June.
J U N E 2020 | V I N E YA R D
WineGB Awards 2020 Deferred until a little later in the year, our annual national competition will see judging in July with the trophy winners unveiled in September. Our co-chairs Susie Barrie MW and Oz Clarke are both committed to ensuring that the competition takes place, allowing for all the necessary health and safety measures required for the judging. Rigorous processes will be in place to ensure the safety of the judges and organisers, and retaining high level of judging and integrity of this competition. We have fantastic ideas to support the awards including an extensive social media campaign and an exciting online Awards event in place on 8 September.
WineGB Trade and Press Tasting We regret to announce that we are cancelling our annual trade tasting, due to take place on 8 September. Despite the possibility that lockdown will be lifted it is hard to assess to what extent such an event can be held, given the inevitable risks. We will be returning to this our flagship event in September 2021. We will ensure, however, that 8 September is used to promote our wines of Great Britain to the trade and media, including our WineGB Awards. We will be announcing further plans in due course.
Shop Local website page
WineGB's focus on the main message that our wines are available to buy online and can be delivered "to your doorâ&#x20AC;? has been our priority since lockdown, to support all our producers in continuing to sell their wines. Prominently signposted from the home page it includes listings of vineyards selling direct to customers, as well as a directory of retailers that stock English and Welsh wines. Please let us know of any information to include.
WineGB weekly webinars
WineGB Patron, Rankin Brothers & Sons has launched a social media campaign to support local Breweries, Distilleries and Wineries. It is designed to drive interest in local businesses and to encourage consumers to go on a journey of discovery - to see what gems exist on their doorstep!
Keep informed Sign up for WineGB bulletins to receive support, guidance and advice during this coronavirus outbreak period. Go to the Covid-19 area of the WineGB website, which is open to all, for the sign up link. Guidance on reopening cellar door, tastings and tours will be announced soon.
Impact of Covid-19 report
Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the WineGB weekly webinars covering both technical and marketing topics. The series started in May with a number of topics including social media essentials, maximising sales and understanding the customer path. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Frost: what to do nextâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, held just after the cold weather events in mid-May, kicked off the first in the viticulture series of webinars, followed by â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The wonderful world of weeds: and how to control themâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. All webinars are recorded and details are available on the website.
Follow us on:
#RaiseAGlass campaign
An independent report on the early impact of the coronavirus pandemic on English and Welsh vineyards and wineries has just been published, following the survey of the industry conducted by Professor Francis Greene from the University of Edinburgh Business School. It reveals that the key concern is about the short-term future and also identifies that: â&#x2014;&#x2020; Two-thirds have cashflow concerns and half have delayed strategic investment â&#x2014;&#x2020; Half of larger vineyards have concerns about the availability of seasonal workers
@winegb
@winegb
â&#x2014;&#x2020; One-third of owners are experiencing supply chain issues â&#x2014;&#x2020; Four out of ten owners are experiencing higher stress levels However, many wine producers are upbeat about their survival prospects and two-thirds of those surveyed already had an online presence and following the Covid-19 outbreak have increased online sales by 25% on average. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We welcomed the opportunity to assess how many of our members were managing during this crisis, and are grateful for the report. There are many actions we can take from these pages that WineGB will develop and provide additional support for our members. As a trade association we are better informed to work constructively with government at all levels to ensure that our members have access to the support they need,â&#x20AC;? said Simon Robinson, WineGB Chairman.
WineGB welcomes new Patron Willis European
We are delighted to announce Willis European Ltd, suppliers of winery equipment as a Silver Patron. In these difficult times, WineGB thanks its Partners and Patrons, who are supporting the association and its members by providing advice via webinars and updates on services that remain available. These businesses and their services are listed on the WineGB website.
@wine_gb
#Englishwinenight #Welshwinenight
JOIN WINEGB
ď&#x201A;&#x2022; 01858 467792 paper-plane, office@winegb.co.uk ď&#x201A;Ź www. WineGB.co.uk J U N E 2020 | V I N E YA R D
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AGRONOMY
Jul ian
ar
Warming up
Se
le
For the viticulturist, the most important things to consider when planting a vineyard are temperature, temperature and temperature… Spring frosts are a shocking hazard for vines and despite best efforts this year, some sites have incurred serious damage. Vines are very temperature sensitive and don’t like the cool either; during periods of warm sunny days, exposure to short periods of cool and windy weather is damaging. The development of soil temperature matters too; soils must be well structured and free draining. Managing sites to reduce frost risk and lift temperature in any way possible will make a difference.
> Agrii's network of weather stations in the south of the UK A key focus of crop protection up until flowering is building leaf quality and essential nutrients for flowering and fruit set especially where unfavourable conditions, perhaps dry soils too, inhibit nutrient uptake from the roots. Biostimulants can help the plant to assimilate the available nutrition better. Agrii is actively developing these in trials. Risk to vines from pest and disease will increase over the next period. Understanding this as accurately as possible is critical for effective crop protection. The field experience of Agrii agronomists is assisted by pest and disease modelling. Using our wide network of weather stations (map above) the relative risk can be quantified. This enables more accurate evaluation of both the real time and predicted infection to the crop. The important information is readily available to the agronomist and as a decision support service to customers. When forecast conditions change and warmth coincides with prolonged leaf wetness, a primary downy mildew infection period will be triggered.
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Robust products are required. Those containing mancozeb (Valbon, Roxam) are likely to be revoked soon and the new approval of Shinkon and Frutogard are just in time and capable to replace them. All products are most effectively applied prophylactically; if cover is delayed and applied after a severe infection period has occurred, be prepared to supplement with curative chemistry before symptoms can express. Powdery mildew is a risk when conditions are dry and humid. However, this is significantly reduced in vines when light intensity is high, there is good crop ventilation, there is no primary carry over infection from the previous season, and before flower buds are separated. Include sulphur in the programme until mid-June and be prepared to supplement with more robust products thereafter. Flights of moth species that occurred in May need controlling in June before they infest the developing flowers. Pheromone traps enable a biofix and using pest models the incubation period for egg development before they hatch and need spray cover can be determined. This understanding is important particularly for organic growers using blunt instruments like Dipel or Lepinox. Conventional predator
friendly products to control are few and now that Runner has gone, Steward remains the best option. Noticeable from the typical woolly mass now developing, (photo below), woolly vine scale is beginning to become active. Presence on vine trunks is not uncommon and not necessarily a threshold to control, but may indicate more serious presence on the fruiting canes where feeding will weaken shoots and colonise new canes for future seasons, causing bud blindness. At this stage hundreds of eggs are developing under the adult female. In a few weeks, the eggs will get legs and begin the crawler stage, so just after flowering is the approved time to apply Batavia to control threshold infestations. Weed control at the peak of the season is challenging. An integrated approach is required. Whilst Roundup Powermax remains the only contact systemic approved it can effectively be used twice at the full rate where only half the ground under the vine is treated each time. The label restricts only the total quantity, 2.5kg per hectare, applied annually.
www.agrii.co.uk 08456 073322 paper-plane julian.searle@agrii.co.uk
AGRONOMY
Switching on the vine’s natural defences Frutogard from Certis is the UK’s first approved fungicide recommended for the control of downy mildew with a built in algae extract formulation available exclusively via Agrii. It is a preventative fungicide containing potassium phosphonate, uniquely extracted seaweed content (Ascophyllum nodosum) and amino acids which work synergistically to prime the plant before fungal pathogen attack by promoting growth and defence mechanisms. The vine's ability to trigger and intensify its immune responses is known as Systemic Acquired Resistance (SAR). It is an induced defence that is triggered after local infection from pathogens, but the same effect is observed when the unique formulation of Frutogard is applied to vines. This means vines are able to protect themselves against biotic and abiotic stress factors on their own, even in the absence of a pathogen. SAR is regulated by a set of signal transduction pathways. The activation of these various plant mechanisms, naturally present in the plant, aids
How it works - The triple vaccine for your vines Algae extract
Potassium phosphonate
Amino acids
Activation of the phytoalexins, these have antimicrobial effects
Indirect and direct fully systemic effects
Activation of the plant defence proteins with anti-fungal effect
successful defence against fungal pathogen attack. However, Frutogard applied to crops before the plants are under attack triggers these mechanisms and primes the plants ahead of infection. This significantly reduces the growth, spread and incidence of infections. What’s more, the fact that the triple action formula of Frutogard significantly increases host plant defence, results in a reduced phosphonate concentration which is beneficial when
Frutogard: Duration of activity on Downy Mildew (plasmopara viticola) on Vines 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
3 hours
1 day
3 days
6 days
10 days
Time After Application Water (H 20)
Frutogard
considering residues in harvested crop. Frutogard's triple action takes effect within three hours of application and has a lasting effect for up to 10 days after application as shown in Figure 1. In addition, the unique extraction process of the Ascophyllum nodosum allows for the release of many nutrient elements as well as growthpromoting phytohormones (cytokinins etc), vitamins, enzymes and amino acids. The gentle extraction process means these substances are largely preserved and can be found in high concentrations in the Frutogard formulation, improving shoot and root growth. Viticulture’s crop protection strategies are becoming more dynamic than ever before and increasingly complex. In a new era of crop protection, with increased concerns around resistance and loss of products, it is very important that these novel modes of action in biological controls are being backed up with science in order to support growers and keep abreast of the challenges.
> Figure 1: Duration of activity of Frutogard preventative application vs water control > Downy mildew on grape leaves
> Severe case of downy mildew on bunches
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Boisselet Weed Control
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Safe Spraying
Lipco Recirculating Sprayer
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Leaf strippers
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Mowers
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Provitis Equipment
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Vine Trimmers
01732 866567
MACHINERY
Spaldings joins Honda as national dealer and adds new products Spaldings has become a national dealer for Honda Power Products and will be offering all products through its various sales channels. Honda brushcutters, walk-behind mowers and lawn tractors, and a new range of cordless electric hand tools have been added to the extensive range of products that Spaldings supplies to farmers and growers. All the Honda products are now available to buy from Spaldings’ online, by telephone, through the on-farm sales team, and at the retail counter in the company’s premises on Sadlers Road, Lincoln. As with similar products, return-to-base service and repairs support is available. Spaldings has supplied Honda portable generators and water pumps for the past three years; the addition of products from the Honda Lawn & Garden range for professional and domestic use means farmers can now also order essential maintenance equipment for use around farmyards and farm dwellings. Spaldings managing director Steve Constable said: “As an approved Honda service agent we are able to offer genuine Honda Lawn & Garden products to our customers giving them greater choice in their decision making. “The expertise gained from over a decade of being a main servicing dealer for other well-known brands ensures that Spaldings can offer full service and warranty back-up as standard, maintaining our reputation for first class service, quality and value built up over the past 65 years.” Steve Morris, head of Power Products at Honda UK said: “Spaldings has established itself as a trusted name in the ground care sector, so Honda is delighted to be working alongside the business. “The company’s decision to stock a wide variety of Honda Lawn & Garden products, aimed at both professional and domestic users, is only the start of good news to come from this partnership in the future.” In addition to 25cc and 35cc four-stroke petrol brushcutters and the multifunction Honda Versatool – a push-and-click powerhead available with several
different attachments – the Honda products now stocked by Spaldings include newly-introduced battery-powered hand tools and walk-behind mowers. The professional-grade cordless hand tools include the Honda HHT 36 AXB brushcutter supplied with a three-tooth blade and nylon strimming line, ‘handlebar’ grips and a double shoulder harness. It weighs just 6.5kg before fitting the 36 volt, 6.0Ah lithium-ion universal battery that is also used for Honda’s new 60cm hedge trimmer. When powering the HHB 36 AXB leaf blower, the battery pack is worn on the user’s belt to minimise the weight of the blower, which comes with two interchangeable nozzles and variable fan speed to deliver the best airflow to shift dry, wet and heavy debris. With the cordless rotary mowers, buyers get proven features from Honda’s petrol-fuelled Izy machines, including a pressed steel deck, but with a new-design quiet and efficient brushless electric motor powered by a 4Ah, 6Ah or 9Ah lithium-ion battery. There are two Izy-ON models – a 41cm (16in) push mower and a 46cm (18in) self-propelled with single-lever change over between mulching and bag collection. They complement a comprehensive line-up of petrol mowers starting at 46cm (18in) and culminating in several 53cm (21in) models with mulching and rear roller variants. For maintaining larger areas with minimum effort, Spaldings offers within 60 miles of its Lincoln retail outlet Honda’s Miimo ‘set and forget’ robotic lawn mowers and the HF 2417 from Honda’s premium range of lawn tractors. These have been upgraded for this year with a four-speed ‘cruise control’ transmission and new high-back seat with armrests to complement a new digital instrument panel and the mobile device holder and battery-charging USB port.
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Unit 2, Owens Court Farm, Selling, Faversham ME13 9QN Tel: 01233 226284 Email: sales@horsepoweragri.co.uk www.horsepoweragri.co.uk www.wannersprayers.co.uk
HIGH PERFORMANCE SPRAYERS for modern plant protection
www.wannersprayers.co.uk
Available for Hire
We sell oils, grease, Paint & Much more!
Weidemann T4512 in stock
SENT Directly to you! No Contact Needed! Please Call To Order Or Find Us On Ebay: Horsepowerukltd Webshop: horsepoweragrishop.co.uk
OUTSTANDING
O%
FINANCE PACKAGES AVAILABLE *
THE all new TERRAGLIDE SUSPENDED FRONT AXLE and TRELLEBORG PNEUTRAC TYRES
available across New Holland T4 Speciality range
JEREMY CLOUDE 07710 870153
RICHARD SMITH 07483 035922
COVERING KENT, SUSSEX AND SURREY
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Haynes Agri
@Agrimachines
@haynesagri
H AY N E S A G R I C U LT U R A L LT D .
www.haynesgrp.co.uk
vid Sayell & a D
c ha Ri
rd Witt
VITIFRUIT EQUIPMENT
Is machine better than hand? There are several machines on the market which remove leaves, and each has its own merits. For many years Vitifruit Equipment have been selling and hiring the Stockmayer machine and seen technical improvements as time passes to improve air suction and leaf plucking. This and the Provitis system work very well at plucking but there is another machine which may do the job better when it comes to the more specific task of flower cap removal. Therefore, this season the Italian Olmi pneumatic deleafer will be trialed in the UK. The Olmi patented machine uses compressed air to blow flower caps and leaves away from the grape zone. According to technical studies the use of the machine over time increases plant health and consequently the quality of the grapes and wine. Other advantages sited are a fast work rate of 1 to 2 hours per hectare instead of 50 to 60 hours manual work, better penetration and efficiency of plant protection treatments which also results in considerable economic savings, improvement of aeration around the bunches thus reducing humidity and the development of disease rot. It can also be used in the pre harvest period to make manual picking easier with a time saving of over 30% and as it blows away rain and dew it makes harvest more acceptable to the picking team. We look forward to doing the trials and seeing the results. Vitifruit Equipment are also studying the use of a semi-automatic picking machine with close attention to berry quality preservation.
“Your local vineyard tractor & machinery specialists”
Martin Bailiss
07796 305209 sales@farol.co.uk
www.farol.co.uk www.vitifruitequipment.co.uk 01732 866567 paper-plane vitifruitequipment@sky.com
Rycote Lane Farm, Milton Common, Thame, Oxfordshire, OX9 2NZ Unit 12, Newton Business Park, Newton, Nottingham NG13 8HA Coldridge Copse, Shefford Woodlands, Hungerford, Berkshire, RG17 7BP Wharf Farm, Coventry, Hinckley, Leicestershire, LE10 0NB Holmbush House, Holmbush Ind. Est., Midhurst, West Sussex, GU29 9XY
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Itasca Wines is excited to announce the Launch of their contract winemaking services. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Vine to Bottle Servicesâ&#x20AC;? Our new state-of-the-art winery will be open for business this September 2020 See our website for pictures and newsletter www.itascawines.com With an award-winning team, your grapes will be in safe hands Our brand-new facilities are set in the beautiful Hampshire countryside. Built with the environment in mind, Itasca Wines new facility will be powered by solar energy and four ponds as wetlands for water processing with a willow coppice encouraging wild life and a sustainable environment. Offering; Full pressing and processing, sparkling and still wine, temperature controlled storage (including on lees), bottling, riddling and disgorging, labelling and packaging. Laboratory offering Wine analysis services.
VINE TO BOTTLE
Contact us to find out more
itascawines.com | info@itascawines.com | 01252 279 830 Itasca Wines, Penn Croft Winery, Clifton Farm, Clifton Lane, Crondall, Hampshire, GU10 5QD