Vineyard November 2020

VINEYARD for viticulturists in Great Britain ™

NOVEMBER 2020

THE VINEYARD SHOW First Show President announced

MATTHEW JUKES WINE REVIEW Acid trip

CONTRACT WINEMAKING Playing an important role

PRESSING AHEAD How a Best International Sparkling Wine award in 2010 sparked dramatic export growth for Ridgeview

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NEWS 8

Grant help from the Drinks Trust

EDITORIAL Editor: Malcolm Triggs vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk Studio Manager: Jo Legg jo.legg@kelsey.co.uk Graphic Designer: James Pitchford james.pitchford@kelsey.co.uk

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Industry joins forces to oppose new red tape

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£1.2m expansion plans will create visitor centre

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Adapting to life in Tier 3

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Bringing in a once-in-adecade harvest

REGULARS 24

Matthew Jukes

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The agronomy diary

35

The vine post

Matthew highlights three star wines in the making.

Effective pruning sets vines up for the season ahead.

Vine-Works Vine Grower.

36 'Squeezed middle'

Mid-scale vineyards can prosper despite challenges.

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Representing you

40

Bacteria

47

Machinery

Updates from the industry’s membership organisation.

Controlling malolactic fermentation.

The vineyard tractor ready for tomorrow.

Front cover image: Ridgeview © Martin Apps, Countrywide Photographic

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CONTENTS Features

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The Vineyard Show Excitement is mounting as plans take shape for The Vineyard Show, being held at the Kent Event Centre, near Maidstone, on 24 November 2021.

In conversation In May 2009 Waitrose became the first UK retailer to plant its own vineyard, choosing the chalk soils of the Leckford Estate in Hampshire as home to the grapes that would be used.

Editor’s Visit Ridgeview this year celebrates 25 years at the forefront of UK winemaking. Vineyard looks at what makes them tick.

Contract Winemaking With growers keen to see the fruits of their labour turned into fantastically drinkable UK wine, contract winemaking is playing an increasingly important part.

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Competitors in most industry sectors guard their secrets closely, unwilling to sacrifice the commercial advantage that may accrue from a new idea or an innovative way of doing things.

That single-minded determination to beat the opposition does not seem to have rubbed off on the comparatively young industry that is UK winemaking, where co-operation, not competition, seems to be the prominent driver.

Ridgeview, this year celebrating an anniversary that would probably go virtually unnoticed in more established industries, is a prime example of a business that is more concerned with helping UK vineyards and winemakers take on the challenge of imported wines than it is with selling more than its neighbours.

Director of Communications Mardi Roberts, while keen to highlight Ridgeview’s 25 years at the cutting edge of UK winemaking, is equally busy working closely with other wine estates across Sussex to help the group exploit the tourism potential of English vineyards. Growers in Kent and Hampshire are setting up similar marketing groups, working together to attract new customers and share the benefits.

Ridgeview is, of course, a relative newcomer compared to the vineyard at Biddenden, where Richard and Joyce Barnes replanted their orchard with vines in 1969 after Joyce heard a radio feature about growing grapes. Now managing director, Julian Barnes grew up with vines and is sharing his experience and giving his time as the first President of The Vineyard Show next November.

Other industries work together, of course, with perhaps the finest example of altruism to date being that shown by Volvo after engineer Nils Bohlin invented the three-point seat belt in 1959. Before that, rudimentary two-point waist restraints sometimes did more harm than good in a crash.

Volvo opened up the patent so that any car manufacturer could use it in their design, deciding that the invention was such an important step forward in safety terms that it would be wrong to profit from it without sharing it.

It is unlikely that co-operation in the wine industry will ever save one million lives – an estimate of the impact of Bohlin’s invention on the world – but it is certainly a positive move in an industry that has more to gain by promoting UK wine and wine tourism as a concept than it does from fighting for individual market share.

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From the editor

N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

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NEWS

Concern over review date

The Wine and Spirit Trade Association (WSTA) has expressed concern about the initial deadline for businesses to respond to the call for evidence on the Government’s alcohol duty review.

The review, announced as part of the 2020 budget in March, is being led jointly by HM Treasury and HM Revenue and Customs and is seeking views on “how well the alcohol duty system currently works and how it could be reformed”.

It takes into account the fact that the UK is free to set its own law in this area, having left the European Union, which previously set the rules. The foreword to the call for evidence claims alcohol duty is “a complex – and arguably outdated – system of taxation”.

Kemi Badenoch MP, Exchequer Secretary to the Treasury and Minister for Equalities, adds: “I believe that we can shape our duty regime in the best way

to suit our national priorities without the undue rigidity and constraints imposed by the EU. “I believe there is a powerful opportunity to look again at these issues in a new light and consider whether there are better ways to approach this important area of taxation.”

The foreword concludes: “There are many considerations in play – for example, supporting public health, protecting tax revenues and providing a fair deal for all parts of industry – and it will not be easy to balance these. We will therefore proceed thoughtfully, listening carefully to the views of respondents.”

Miles Beale, Chief Executive of the WSTA, welcomed the launch of the review, pointing out that the UK’s wine and spirits sector generates almost £50bn a year in economic activity, supports some 360,000 jobs and contributes £17bn to the public purse.

He agreed that the current excise duty regime “is complex and fails to support UK consumers, UK businesses - especially SMEs - or the Exchequer” and said the existing framework under the EU was “unnecessarily complex”, creating “a distorted market and an uneven competitive playing field”.

Pointing out that “any new system needs to be both simpler and fairer to all products than the current one”, he warned that a thorough review would take time.

“We have some concerns about businesses’ capacity to contribute, given a deadline at the end of November,” he said, pointing out that the industry would also be worrying about Christmas trading and preparations for the end of the Brexit transition period, but added: “We note that this call for evidence is only the first phase and that there will be future opportunities for respondents and stakeholders to contribute”.

Grant help for those facing hardship With no immediate end in sight to the problems caused by the Covid-19 pandemic and hospitality again looking set to pay a bigger price than many other sectors, the Drinks Trust has stepped in with a measure of support.

With the furlough scheme ending on 31 October and the replacement Job Support Scheme unlikely to fill the gap completely, the industry is expecting to see significant redundancies, along with many cases of hardship caused by a significant drop in salary.

In response, the Drinks Trust is inviting those who are experiencing immediate financial hardship as a result of the ending of the furlough scheme to apply for its End of Furlough Grant of £250, and is also offering a range of ‘wellness’ services aimed at helping those who are struggling to cope.

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www.drinkstrust.org.uk/end-of-furlough

Qualifying individuals will have worked in any part of the drinks industry, or worked with drinks within the hospitality industry, for one year full time or two years part time, at any point in their career.

Ross Carter, The Drinks Trust Chief Executive, said: “We want to reach out to those in the drinks and hospitality industry who have been hard hit and have gone without the support of others. Industries like ours, the drinks industry, risk being among those that go unseen by the public, despite having faced some of the most significant challenges in recent months.”

For those facing severe financial hardship, 500 emergency grants of £250 from The Drinks Trust are now available. Depending on demand and ongoing donations to the charity, more may be made available in coming weeks.

Business are invited to support the scheme by emailing partnerships@drinkstrust.org.uk

N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

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NEWS

First harvest at Leonardslee

The first grapes grown at Leonardslee Lakes and Gardens, near Horsham in West Sussex, have been safely gathered in.

The vineyard, owned by entrepreneur Penny Streeter OBE, was planted in 2018 in the grounds of the estate, which boasts Grade I Listed gardens.

The 15 hectares of vineyards at Leonardslee and sister property Mannings Heath Golf and Wine Estate, three miles away, have together produced an estimated 5,000 litres of grape juice, destined

to make around 6,500 bottles of wine.

The vineyard contains 65% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier grapes, with the first sparkling wine set to be released in 2023. The estate also has an experimental 0.5ha block of non-sparkling Pinotage, which will be used to evaluate the suitability of the growing conditions in Sussex.

Penny Streeter said wine estate managing director Barry Anderson and his team of pickers had been joined by members of Leonardslee

> Barry Anderson

Lakes and Gardens and members of the Benguela Cove wine club, which she said: “brings wines from our vineyard in South Africa to the UK and is the inspiration for creating the vineyard and wine tourism experience in Sussex”.

Wine production in the UK and in South Africa is overseen by cellar master Johann Fourie, who has won a series of awards for Benguela Cove Lagoon wine estate and is hoping to follow that with similar accolades over here.

> Penny Streeter OBE

Joint stand against VI-1 import forms UK winemakers have backed calls for wine import certificates to be scrapped, despite the fact that it would increase the cost of overseas wines and make their own more competitive.

After looking at the impact of new wine import requirements, the All Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) for Wine and Spirits published a report spelling out the cost to consumers and businesses of new inspections and paperwork proposed – voluntarily – by the UK Government for wine imported from the EU from 1 January next year.

Experts have warned that if government refuses to scrap plans to introduce wine import certificates (so-called VI-1s) and lab tests, businesses could fold or be forced to relocate outside the UK, causing job losses and a drop in tax revenue.

Worried UK wine firms giving evidence to the inquiry included Direct Wines, which warned the introduction of VI-1’s will cause “chaos” for companies buying and selling European wines that were unfamiliar with VI-1s and lab tests.

Fine wine merchants have told MPs it will be impossible for them to meet the testing requirements, which would mean opening, and thereby ruining, expensive bottles of wine, and remain competitive. As well as the estimated cost to wine businesses of £70 million-plus a year, it will lead to a big reduction in range and choice.

The report concluded that introducing import certificates for EU wine, something that isn’t required of any other category of alcoholic drink, will push up costs, which will ultimately fall to the consumer, with no demonstrable benefit.

And while UK winemakers would not be affected – and could even become more competitive if the price of imports rise, domestic growers have backed

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N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

the call for the plans to be scrapped.

Last year the Wine and Spirit Trade Association warned that the new inspections for imported EU wine would generate more than 600,000 customs forms, trebling the workload of UK wine inspectors overnight.

Miles Beale, Chief Executive of the WSTA, said the report laid bare “the disastrous impact these costly and unnecessary tests and paperwork will have on British business and the UK’s 33 million wine consumers”.

He added: “Sadly, DEFRA Ministers are stubbornly ploughing ahead with the introduction of costly VI-1 certification for EU wines, meaning that at the end of the year wine drinkers will be facing price hikes and inevitably find that some of their favourite European wines will vanish from the shelves.

A statement from WineGB pointed out: “Some UK wine producers might argue that actions which increase the cost and availability of imported wine could help our industry, but that is not WineGB’s position. We have consistently said that we generally favour a free market in wine both here and in the EU in the interests of consumers.

“Many of the businesses which will be affected by the introduction of these forms are major distributors of our own products and as such we are keen to support them, so we would support a system which enabled easier access for imported European wines than is currently contemplated; in fact we would support the system being the same for non-European wine imports, which currently do have to use the VI-1 forms.

“We recognize the complex and difficult nature of the UK-EU negotiation and have made the case to Government that we would also like to see the EU reciprocate by removing the similar requirement for such forms and tests for UK wine exports”

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THE VINEYARD SHOW

Show takes shape First Show President announced.

Excitement is mounting as plans take shape for The Vineyard Show, being held at the Kent Event Centre, near Maidstone, on 24 November 2021.

The show, being organised by the publishers of Vineyard magazine with the support of a strong team led by Event Director Sarah Calcutt, can now announce that Julian Barnes, managing director of Biddenden Vineyards, has agreed to be the first Show President.

Having grown up on the vineyard started by his parents Richard and Joyce Barnes in 1969, Julian’s experience in the industry is second to none, while his vice-chairmanship of the Kent County Agricultural Society places him at the heart of the wider farming world.

He is keen to play an active part in the show and is determined to be president in more than name only. “I am particularly keen to make sure the show is interesting to as wide an audience as possible and reflects the importance of viticulture to this part of the world over a long period,” he said.

Biddenden Vineyard bottled its first wine in 1972, the same year in which it first planted Pinot Noir grapes and Ortega, for which it has now become famed and which now accounts for around 50% of its output.

The vineyard grows and hand harvests 11 varieties on 23 acres, with a focus on older vines and a reputation for good quality single varietal wines. Alongside the Ortega and a small amount of sparkling wine, Biddenden produces a Dornfelder and, in good years – hopefully including 2020 – a Gamay. The

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> Julian Barnes with his wife Sally vineyard produces around 65,000 bottles a year.

“I was honoured to be asked to take on the role of President of The Vineyard Show, and after a true lifetime’s involvement in the industry I am looking forward to playing my part in what I am sure will be a great success,” Julian concluded.

The show is also proud to have recruited a number of top names as main sponsors of the show, introduced on pages 13 and 14…

Sponsor

For Matthew Berryman of land, property and environmental consultants CLM, the launch of The Vineyard Show “is indicative of the bright future for the viticulture sector”.

He explained: “Like all parts of the economy, we have been hit hard

by Covid-19, but the long-term prospects remain strong, with English and Welsh wines winning awards and customers.

“Running a successful vineyard business is a complex proposition, though, and that’s never been more the case than it is today.

“Successful operators need specialist advice on many topics, which is why CLM is proud to be one of sponsors of the inaugural Vineyard Show as we support viticulturists across a range of commercial areas.

“We are particularly involved in helping people find, buy and sell land, shape and structure their businesses – through such formats as leases and joint ventures – develop tourism activities and navigate the planning system.

“We give honest, objective advice, whether that’s on the upper limit they should bid for a piece of land or the likelihood of getting planning permission to build a winery if they do acquire that land.

“We’re excited about the future and believe there are many great opportunities to be had, but we’re also realistic about the challenges.

“The Vineyard Show will be a great platform for all sections of our industry – from growers and would-be investors to wine makers, agronomists and the trade – to come together in one place.

“There’ll be a host of exhibitors and a fascinating seminar programme, making this a great place to network and hear the latest news and views “It’s also a perfect opportunity to keep up to date with new technical advice, market trends and government policies, not to mention tasting some of the wonderful wine produced in this country.

“We live in a time of change. The launch of this new show is testimony to that change and evidence of the excitement surrounding viticulture.

“We're based in East Sussex, in the heart of wine country, and have supported rural businesses for many years, so we’re looking forward to talking to visitors to the show at the Kent Showground on 24 November next year about how we can help them launch or develop their viticulture enterprise."

THE VINEYARD SHOW

Sponsor Vitifruit Equipment Sales and Hire Machinery dealer Vitifruit, another sponsor of The Vineyard Show, supplies a broad range of outdoor equipment for vineyards across the UK and takes pride in providing a bespoke service based on each customer’s needs.

“We stock entry level, but still high quality, equipment for new or smaller growers but we can also provide state-of-the-art machinery from big name manufacturers for larger vineyards,” explained Richard Witt, joint owner of the Edenbridge-based business.

“As an example, we stock sprayers from MM and Zupan which cost a few thousand pounds and are ideal for smaller vineyards, but we can also supply the Lipco recirculation sprayer that recycles any liquid that drips off the vines, saving up to 40% of chemical costs and eliminating drift.

"As well as sprayers, Vitifruit supplies mowers, inter-vine cultivators and de-leafers as well as smaller items such as secateurs and tying machines,” said Richard. “Everything apart from tractors – and in most cases we can offer products across a broad price spectrum.”

Vitifruit, which Richard set up in 2010 with partner David Sayell, also offers repairs, servicing and machinery hire, looking after customers all over the country. David Wood, the third member of the team, leads on the workshop side of the business.

Richard explained why Vitifruit had been keen to sponsor The Vineyard Show. “The company has been with Vineyard since its inception, and David (Sayell) writes an article every month, so we feel a strong affinity with the magazine and wanted to be involved in this exciting new project.

“The idea of an industry specific show for English wines and vineyards is interesting - and very necessary at a time when there is so much happening in the sector. It’s also planned for a good time of the year when people are less busy. We think it’s a great idea and we we are keen to support it.

“We are looking forward to meeting old and new customers and talking to people about how we can support their businesses.”

N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

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THE VINEYARD SHOW

Sponsor Sponsor Now one of the UK’s leading vineyard agronomy companies, Hutchinsons was keen to sign up as a sponsor of The Vineyard Show.

Head of Marketing Nick Rainsley explained that the show would provide an opportunity not just to support the industry and allow Hutchinsons’ experts to share up-to-date knowledge and information but to take the time to meet and chat to new growers within a thriving sector.

Hutchinsons has a dedicated, full-time team of vineyard specialists, including Chris Cooper and Rob Saunders, two highly experienced and well-respected vineyard agronomists who contribute to Vineyard each month.

“Along with advice, Hutchinsons supplies crop protection products, nutrition and all the sundry products and services needed to manage a vine crop and to do so successfully,” Nick said. “We offer nutrition mapping and management plus soil health and soil management on organic and conventional vineyards, which is critical. Our unique healthy soils assessment looks not just at the chemical make-up of the soil but at its physical attributes to produce a comprehensive guide to how the grower can improve it.”

The vineyard market has clearly grown rapidly over the past decade or so, but Nick believes it has changed in a more fundamental way.

“Growers are now more professional and more experienced and are demanding a much higher level of service and support,” he said. “They expect more, and we are here to deliver more.

“While the main change is in the sheer scale of the industry, that more professional approach is also driving things forward. When you have investment in this country from traditional wine areas in France, you know that the game is changing – and we are here to support that.

“Hutchinsons feels the time is absolutely right for the industry to have its own, dedicated professional event that supports and celebrates all areas of viticulture and provides great networking opportunities and a chance to showcase the best of English wines. We will be highlighting new technologies and services in areas such as weather and disease prediction and nutrition and soil mapping.

“It is also important to us to know that the show is being organised by a highly professional team brought together by Vineyard magazine. Their knowledge of the industry and their experience gives us confidence that this really will be a great show.”

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N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

Long-established packaging company bruni erben is another valued sponsor of The Vineyard Show taking place in November 2021.

Bruni erben, set up nearly 70 years ago and now owned by Berlin Packaging, specialises in bottles, closures and the machinery that brings those two elements together securely, as well as filling and packaging equipment.

“We see The Vineyard Show as a really great way of putting more focus on a sector that is coming of age and shifting rapidly from the ‘hobby vineyard’ of 20 or so years ago to the highly professional industry that we see today,” explained technical sales manager for wines and spirits Mark Crumpton.

Mark brings a particular understanding of the industry to his role with bruni erben, having obtained a Masters Degree in wine making from Plumpton College.

Given its long-standing history, it is no surprise that in 1955 bruni erben – then H Erben Ltd – supplied pressing and bottling machinery to Sir Guy Salisbury-Jones, who planted the first commercial vineyard in the UK for a hundred years.

More recent developments include setting up a supplier partnership with Laffort, which allows the company to offer oenological supplies, filtration kits, processing aids and additives alongside tanks, bottling equipment and closures.

Bruni erben has its own UK laboratory and offers technical support to all its customers. “We see ourselves as very customer-centric and we make sure we listen and respond to their requests. We offer other support including stockholding, logistics and credit accounts and we can also print straight onto glass,” explained Mark.

“It’s exciting to see the increasingly professional approach being taken

by UK wine growers and makers and their determination to produce high quality wines, and our aim is to supply them with the right products and the right bottles to help them do that. The industry is going through astonishing growth and has a great future.

“The Vineyard Show will be a great way to celebrate that and bring the various players together as a source of ideas and expertise from which all the visitors can draw. It’s a great idea and I’m sure it will be a huge success.”

NEWS

Ambitious £1.2m scheme A Kent vineyard is applying for planning permission to transform the site with an ambitious £1.2m scheme to add a winery, store, shop and visitor centre.

If Gravesham Council approves the scheme, due to be considered before the end of the year, Meopham Valley Vineyard will be able to dig a winery into the hillside and offer visitors superb views across the valley from the first

floor visitor centre.

“At the moment we don’t even have a toilet on the site,” explained Surinder Bassi, son of owners Ben and Surjit, who worked at the vineyard for 23 of its nearly 30 year history before buying the vineyard from previous owner David Grey in 2014.

The Bassis currently grow vines on five acres of the 25 acre site and are planning to plant a further 14.5 acres. Their sparkling wine is made under

the watchful eye of Owen Elias at Defined Wine in Canterbury, but also has to be stored there, making life challenging for the business. They also produce a still wine, which is made at New Hall Vineyards in Essex.

Their ambitious plans include a cellar door shop, outdoor seating, tours and corporate events, with the expanded operation up and running by 2022 if permission is given.

New hallmark for Great British Classic Method WineGB has unveiled its new Classic Method campaign to champion traditional method sparkling wine as the UK’s flagship brand.

The campaign, which has been 18 months in the planning, is based around a visual hallmark that will signify the UK’s top tier wines and will be widely communicated.

Consultation with WineGB members, producers of all sizes and from across Britain, highlighted a need to differentiate traditional method sparkling wines as the UK’s premium quality brand but showed no enthusiasm for the idea of a contrived ‘name’ for an English or Welsh sparkling wine.

More than 30 leading wine producers, including many of the high-profile brands and the new generation of emerging brands and ‘artisan’ wineries, are backing the campaign, which includes supporting promotional activity around samplings and masterclasses.

A visual ‘hallmark’ will initially only be permitted for use by PDO wines, although the aim is to embrace the diversity of the industry and raise the profile of all styles of wines produced from grapes grown in Great Britain and produced by the classic method.

The campaign is being launched to the trade press and social media influencers, who will be invited to attend masterclasses to explore these classic method wines. There is a useful toolkit on the WineGB website.

Wine sales boom in lockdown

Home-grown wine sales have been one of the winners in the fallout from the Covid-19 lockdown, according to a new report by researchers Wine Intelligence.

The report suggests that wine sales as a whole have benefited from the pandemic, although with many consumers expected to have to tighten their belts as the economy shrinks, it warns that the bubble may be about to burst.

Of interest to UK growers and wine makers, though, is the news that the ‘heartland’ wine drinkers who were already fans of wine “have turned more towards tried and tested brands, and – where available – domestically-produced wines, as reassurance, trust and familiarity have become paramount in the purchase decision”.

The report, Wine Consumer Trends in the Covid-19 Era, tracks wine consumers from April to August 2020 in seven key markets around the world and compares their behaviour with data from before the pandemic-inspired lockdown.

It suggests that there is “some reassurance” for those whose livelihoods depends on strong demand from wine drinkers but that “there are growing concerns about the challenges that lie ahead”.

The report says that six months on from the “unprecedented lockdown of the global economy” and despite the closure of restaurants and limited socialising and travel opportunities, consumers have continued to enjoy drinking wine, in some cases switching from other tipples.

While the trend towards day drinking or having wine with lunch has declined, consumers have found new opportunities to indulge their wine habits, including outdoors, online with friends, and while relaxing in the evening. The report suggests that ‘heartland’ drinkers have helped boost sales, although in some cases they have done so by reducing their per-bottle spend in order to stay within an existing budget.

Online sales have continued to rise, with the

evidence suggesting that this momentum is likely to continue as consumers become more comfortable with the idea of ordering wine online, not least because they are more likely to be at home during the day to accept the delivery There are, though, warning lights in the report, essentially as a result of the wider issue of consumer confidence and the outlook for major economies over the next few years. “Broader consumer attitudes to life are becoming less upbeat and more cautious in most markets … as the reality of the Covid-19 world becomes increasingly clear,” it says.

The report, authored by Lulie Halstead, continues: “Desire to spend money on little luxuries, which surged in April, is subsiding, as consumers focus on shoring up their finances for a period of employment and income uncertainty.”

There are, it adds, exceptions to this in Germany and China, where optimism about the future appears to be growing.

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NEWS

"We will just have to adapt again" As Vineyard went to press, Liverpool was coming to grips with life in Tier 3 of the Government's new coronavirus regime.

Malcolm Triggs spoke to a wine merchant in the city.

A wine retailer in the city at the heart of the highest level of Covid-19 restrictions is preparing to negotiate another challenging period for his business.

Devin Stewart, owner of R&H Fine Wines, an independent wine merchants based in Queen Street, Liverpool, also operates a bistro and a thriving wholesale business that will be hit hard by the closure of pubs and bars that are not serving ‘substantial’ meals.

He told Vineyard that having survived through the initial national lockdown that lasted for much of the summer he was now having to rethink his business operation once again, but accepted the fact that there was a good reason behind the restrictions.

“The initial lockdown saw our wholesale service simply grind to a halt, but we scaled up our home delivery service and looked after people who switched to working from home. We put some interesting, good value cases together from the wholesale stock and it took off really well.

“We were actually busier than ever and didn’t have to lay off any staff. We re-opened the bistro – with fewer covers, of course – and the shop as soon as we were allowed to, and while home deliveries have dropped we have kept busy, partly because of the new customers we picked up via the delivery service,” he explained.

One challenge for Devin, who stocks UK wines from suppliers including Digby and Hoffmann & Rathbone, is that his premises are in the ‘business end’ of Liverpool where lawyers and other professionals are increasingly working from home.

While ‘eat out to help out’ in the summer proved really successful and boosted trade at the bistro through September as well, the closure of pubs and bars is now likely to have a big impact on his wholesale business.

“We will just have to adapt once again,” he said. “It is what it is, and it is for a good reason.

The numbers in this part of the world are horrific.”

Vineyard pricing – exclusive

16

Low supply, varied demand and uncertainty over the potential impact of Brexit and Covid-19 continue to shape the farmland market in England, according to land and property specialists Strutt & Parker.

The Farmland Database suggests that just 46,000 acres of farmland have been launched on the open market in England so far this year, well below the five-year average, making it inevitable that 2020 will see the lowest amount of land publicly marketed on record.

The average price of land remains remarkably consistent, with the average parcel of arable land selling in 2020 at £9,500/acre (up 5% year-onyear), and the average pasture price £7,200/acre.

What about the sell-on price of your vineyard?

Ed Mansel Lewis, head of Strutt & Parker’s vineyard group, spoke exclusively to Vineyard about the state of the market.

"The value of a planted vineyard is the sum of three essential elements; the value of the bare land, the adjusted cost of planting the vines and a premium for the grower’s risk in establishing the vineyard.

"In terms of the base value of suitable land, this can range from about £10,000/acre to

£20,000/acre depending on the suitability of the site and how competitive the market is in that region. Generally, price competition is highest in Kent, with good competition in Sussex, Essex and Hampshire. Price competition wanes as you get further west or north.

"The value for the cost of planting needs to be adjusted to account for various factors. A vendor can expect to achieve the greatest value where the vines make a wine in strong demand and where the vines have proved themselves over a couple of good harvests, achieving good sugar levels and weight yields.

"The pruning system will also affect the value, as it needs to be a system the rest of the market can work with. Finally, the vineyard needs to have plenty of harvests left in it. Discounts to the cost of planting should be expected if the vines are yet to reach maturity, make unpopular wine, have an unfamiliar pruning system or are at the end of their life.

"Finally, the vendor’s risk is the percentage premium for establishing the vineyard and nurturing it until the point of sale. The size of the premium is strongly linked to whether the vendors have got the first two bits right (right

N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

site and right vines). Beware, if the vineyard is planted on an unsuitable site or in an unsuitable way it may attract a negative premium to account for the purchaser’s cost in ripping out the vines.

"As so many vineyards are traded off market there is very little market evidence of vineyard transactions, but vineyards that meet the qualifying criteria above should trade for between £30,000 and £35,000/planted acre.

"At present, we are seeing an increasing number of wine distribution businesses, venture capitalists and hobbyists retiring from the city looking to acquire going concerns, and they expect to pay this per-acre price for a well planted vineyard."

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N O V E M B E R 2 0 2 0 | V I N E10/09/2020 Y A R D10:49

17

NEWS While growers in the top and soft fruit industries often struggle to attract the interest of local fruit pickers, the UK viticulture sector is fortunate to have loyal supporters keenly enquiring about the opportunities to get involved in grape picking.

Many larger vineyards now offer exclusive picking days as part of wine club membership, while smaller producers often rely on the help from friends and family to avoid getting in the professionals for just one or two days' work.

It might not be as efficient as bringing in a skilled team of dedicated pickers, but inviting your closest customers to come and help with the harvest is one of the best ways to nurture and develop brand ambassadors.

One producer who has long benefited from the opportunity to spend a day chatting to customers, appreciating the contribution they are making to the production of their favourite wine, is Mayfieldbased boutique wine producer Fox & Fox. Often these volunteer oenophiles come from all walks of life, and while most turn up mentally well equipped for a day’s labour, looking after your volunteer pickers (particularly ones who purchase your wines regularly) and providing them with the best tools for the job is of paramount importance.

For this year’s harvest Jonica and Gerard Fox, owners of the East Sussex vineyard, decided to work with Agricare, trialling the company’s fruit picking sleds in a bid to find an easy-to-use alternative to the traditional picking crates that would be stable and safe to use, work in all weathers, be picker friendly and be easy to clean and store.

Horticultural specialist Agricare launched its Vinevale range back in October 2018. The picking sledges on trial were originally designed for traditional strawberry growers, who used to grow plants low to the ground before moving to the modern table-top growing systems seen today.

“The sledges were incredibly convenient for pickers, who would simply pull the sledge between the mounds of strawberries and pick into it,” said Ross Worsley, sales manager at Agricare.

“We first realised that they could have mileage for our viticultural customers when we took them to a Kirkland machinery day. They certainly stirred up a lot of interest, with several vineyard managers commenting on how convenient it would be if grapes could be picked into these sledges and pulled along the ground, avoiding the need for pickers to haul around crates and buckets which can cause back strain.

“We never launch any products without fully trialling them in the vineyard first and we were pleased to hear from Jonica and Gerard how well these sledges had worked for the Fox & Fox

18

Harvest report Pulling together to bring in a “once-in-a-decade” harvest Sunshine: 2020 was a record year, with 1,527 hours of sunshine recorded by the Met Office’s Eastbourne Weather Station from April to September team of pickers.”

Looking back on 2020, Jonica and Gerard, who planted their first vineyard in 2004, described this year as one of sunshine and storms.

“This has been a year for experienced growers to navigate thoughtfully,” said Jonica. “It was the wettest winter for 100 years, knocking 2014 off its ‘wettest-ever’ perch and kicking off a growing season that has been far from typical.

March brought sunny days, very little cloud cover and slightly above average warm day-time temperatures, but with some quite cold nights that continued into April.”

At the end of April, when Fox & Fox started planting its new vines, temperatures reached well above seasonal norms into what became a very dry and warm May. As the established vines responded with an early bud-break, fears lingered over deadly May frosts.

“The last late frost date I can remember here was 13 May 1995; a true blossom-frost that did huge damage to apple blossom and killed that year’s fruit crop,” said Gerard. “This year saw its return with a run of ice-cold nights from 12 to 15 May where we danced with disaster. The last night did the buds along the lower edge of the vineyard where the cold air collects and hit the Chardonnay, which buds before the Pinot noir, hardest.”

A long, dry, luxurious, endlessly sunny summer, with broadly average temperatures and the occasional very light shower, unfolded through June and July into August. Periodic spikes in heat perhaps hinted at the heatwave to come, while fruit set passed through in July unremarked.

The drought was broken as the weather flounced between heavy rain showers and blisteringly hot August sunshine. Véraison kicked into action once the showers and heatwave had passed. Seasonal temperatures returned through the end of the month, but September still surprised as the heat climbed substantially for 10 days mid-month. The rain held off until the predicted harvest date, which was moved back a week to start on 6 October, later than last year’s 30 September start.

Growing Degree Days: Local data suggests that Fox & Fox’s GDD’s nudged above 1000 between 1 April and harvest on 6 October.

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Dryness: Data collected from April to September at Eastbourne also shows 2020 to be slightly drier than 2015 and thus the driest growing season of the past 12 years, with just 186.6 mm of rain “Normal” is not a word easily associated with this vintage. May saw virtually no rain and very late frosts. July and September threw curveballs with unusually cold nights, with the lows at fruiting wire level hitting just 5°c several times. The August heatwave established several records and this was also the driest and sunniest growing season of the past 12 years, while growing degree days were modestly above average.

“The long dry periods and intermittent cold nights kept the vines in a start-stop-start pattern of confusion, but by the start of véraison in late August we could see smaller bunches than the previous two vintages begin to ripen, slowly revealing their character,” said Jonica. “It has been a smaller crop than usual, but the flavours are rich, immense, layered, intense. Sugars were optimal and acids were spot on, too. It is once-in-a-decade fruit, rewarding a growing-year that stands out in so many ways.”

NEWS

Around the world Sustainable policies recognised Italy’s oldest winery, Ricasoli, has been awarded Equalitas certification from Valoritalia in recognition of its sustainability policies.

Ricasoli's journey towards sustainability, which began several years ago, was first recognised in 2019, when the company obtained both the SQNPI certification for soils and the organic certification for some product lines, again from Valoritalia, Italy's leading agri-food certification body.

The winery believes that by reaching the Equalitas standard, it has completed “a transformation process” that reflects its aim of reducing its environmental impact and supporting sustainability.

With 240 hectares of specialized vineyards, Ricasoli currently has the largest vineyard in the Chianti Classico area, the Tuscan designation of origin recognised since 1716 and considered the oldest in the world.

Francesco Ricasoli, direct descendant of Barone di Ferro and current president of the company, has said its corporate goal is to achieve a zero environmental impact.

“Sustainability will play an increasingly decisive role, both in production processes and in consumer choices,” he said, adding: “The farm lands are among the most uncontaminated and pure in Tuscany; our cellars are located where woods and stony ground existed, we grew up in harmony with nature and we made interventions only where necessary and always respecting the environmental and territorial balance.

“In such an intact context, choosing to practice a viticulture very friendly to nature, using agronomic techniques with low environmental impact, was easy. The research carried out over the years, and the technologies applied, have allowed us to fully respect the territory and at the same time to produce quality wines."

Francesco Liantonio, President of Valoritalia, commented: “Equalitas is a difficult and demanding standard; an objective that can only be achieved if you have an efficient structure and great technical skills. I am convinced that Ricasoli constitutes a reference model for all Italian wineries. "

Young Viticulturist of the Year Rhys Hall, assistant vineyard manager at Indevin’s Bankhouse, Marlborough, was named the 2020 Corteva NZ Young Viticulturist of the Year in October, with Sam Bain from Constellation Brands second and George Bunnett from Irrigation Services in third place.

The other contestants at the national final at Ata Rangi Vineyards in Martinborough were Annabel Angland from Peregrine Wines, Tahryn Mason from Villa Maria and Lacey Agate from Bellbird Spring.

The six finalists from Auckland, Hawke’s Bay, Wairarapa, Marlborough, North Canterbury and Central Otago were put through their paces with tough viticultural exams and challenges, the last of which was to deliver a speech at the Young Vit 15 Years Celebration Conference on why their wine region was the best in which to live and work.

The Young Vit 15 Year Celebrations brought

A Chilean vineyard is playing its part in tackling climate change alongside creating award-winning wines.

St. Stephen Organic Vineyards is located in the Colchagua Valley of Chile, at the base of the Andes, where the company produces high quality Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere and Malbec wines that have won medals in various international wine competitions.

After making a proposal to the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) Momentum for Change initiative, North America CEO Tim Edwards and his son Matias were invited to address the convention’s annual meeting in Madrid.

The proposal from St Stephen, a cause-based organisation which uses its profits to benefit environmental causes, was that the efforts of environmental organisations to tackle climate change could be subsidised by establishing an umbrella brand.

Providers of consumer products and services that agreed to commit a portion of sales revenues to benefit environmental causes would be entitled to use this brand on their

together the winners since 2006, all of whom spoke at a conference entitled Investing in the Future.

Rhys’ impressive prize package included use of a Hyundai Kona for a year, an Ecotrellis Travel Grant, a Corteva educational trip to Australia, Bahco golden secateurs, a leadership week and cash.

Tackling climate change packaging, allowing consumers to easily identify and reward companies that were working to mitigate the effects of climate change.

As well as giving producers a sales advantage in return for contributing towards reversing climate change, the licensing fees could raise a huge amount of money for environmental causes, Tim and Matias told the meeting.

Calculations show that if the licensing fees were set at just 1/100th of 1% of the revenue of the top 500 U.S. companies, it would generate $1.4 billion to deploy existing green technologies aimed at significantly reducing carbon emissions. A contribution of 1% would impact efforts to mitigate climate change by $140 billion.

Earlier this year the St. Stephen Organic Vineyards Oda al Vino was named on the Sommeliers Choice list of 11 Winning Wines That Sommeliers Must Stock.

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AWARDS

DECANTER WORLD WINE AWARDS

English wines excel aſter a challenging year

Platinum

Chapel Down Kit's Coty Coeur de Cuvée 2014

Platinum

The Grange Pink NV

Platinum

Chapel Down Three Graces 2015

20

After a challenging year for the industry globally, the world’s largest and most influential wine competition saw Roebuck Estate and Simpsons pick up Best in Show accolades as UK wines won a total of 150 medals.

Now in its 17th year, the 2020 competition spelled success for lesser-known wine producing regions such as the south and eastern Mediterranean and the Balkans, which showcased their impressive quality and value for money. Classic regions in France, Italy, Spain, the USA, and Australia once again performed well.

But it was also another great year for homegrown wines, with Roebuck Estate from West Sussex winning a Best in Show for its Classic Cuvée Brut 2014 and Kent vineyard Simpsons winning another for its Simpsons The Roman Road Chardonnay 2018, after gaining a silver medal last year for its 2017 vintage.

The competition, judged under strict Covid-19 safety guidelines that included proximity lanyards and bespoke disposable spittoons, also saw English wines win three Platinum, five Gold, 94 Silver and 46 Bronze medals.

Chapel Down in Kent had another fantastic year, with all seven of the wines it entered being awarded medals, including two Platinum (Chapel Down Kit’s Coty Coeur de Cuvee 2014, Chapel Down Three Graces 2015), two Gold (Kit’s Coty Blancs de Blancs 2014, Kit’s Coty Chardonnay 2017) and three Silver. The Grange Pink NV from Hampshire won the UK’s third Platinum medal.

Gusbourne was awarded Gold for Blanc de Noirs 2016, in addition to eight Silver and one Bronze medals, while Hoffmann & Rathbone, a boutique winery in East Sussex, collected Gold for its Blanc de Blancs Brut 2012. Small but mighty producers such as Lyme Bay, Leckford Estate and Busi Jacobsohn will also be raising a glass after picking up Silver medals for their sparkling wines.

During the month-long judging, 116 expert wine judges, including 37 Masters of Wine and nine Master Sommeliers, tasted and debated the merits of 16,518 wines from 56 countries.

The successful year enjoyed by English producers was reflected in the fact that UK entries were up 7% on 2019, with 21 counties delivering medal-winning wines.

Co-Chair Andrew Jefford said: “The Decanter

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World Wine Awards really helps producers to raise their profile internationally. It can do the same for wine-producing regions and nations, too.

“Our judging system – including re-tasting of all Golds, with possible promotion to Platinum – is something we are very proud of. We explain it as often as we can. So, when consumers see a DWWA sticker on a bottle, be it Platinum, Gold, Silver or Bronze, they can be reassured that the wine in question has been judged by regional experts and specialists before receiving its medal. We discuss, we argue, we fight it out...that's all part of the judging fun. Even with social distancing! But that's also how you get the results which have made the DWWA an international wine benchmark."

After uncertainty over whether or not the awards could take place this year, Decanter introduced strict safety measures, including temperature checks on the door, PPE for all judges and staff, disposable spittoons containing antibacterial powder that solidifies on contact with liquid and can be incinerated as hazardous waste, proximity tags that vibrate within two metres of another person and isolated tasting areas.

Co-Chair Sarah Jane Evans MW commented: “The competition has been terrific, it has been a perfect atmosphere to taste and judge this year.

After months of lockdown and uncertainty, everyone has been delighted to be back again, working together, sharing ideas and thoughts and, above all, focused on picking out the great wines from this year. There have been some wonderful discoveries.”

A full list of winners can be viewed online at http://awards.decanter.com/DWWA

AWARDS

THE INTERNATIONAL WINE & SPIRIT COMPETITION

Online extravaganza will make award show special

> Ridgeview

Best in Show

Simpsons Wine Estate The Roman Road Chardonnay 2018

The International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC), which celebrated its 50th anniversary last year, will be kicking off its next half century with an online event.

IWSC CEO Christelle Guibert has promised, though, that the awards ceremony, which is being filmed at the renowned Ridgeview Wine estate, ‘home’ of this year’s President, Ridgeview CEO Tamara Roberts, will be “sleek and sexy”.

To give the 2020 awards a very special vibe, the IWSC has brought in top music producer Matt Longfellow, who has worked with Pink Floyd, Blur and the Sex Pistols, to come up with something “new and original” after a Covidinspired six months or so of online awards, events and forums.

The ceremony, scheduled for Wednesday 18 November, will happen as a virtual broadcast on YouTube Premieres and will be presented by the highly experienced David Kermode and Joel Harrison.

Kermode is a journalist and broadcaster with two decades of experience in TV, radio and print media, and a lifelong love of wine and

spirits. A former editor of BBC Breakfast and Channel 5 News, Kermode's 'second career' in wine writing came after he gained a diploma in wine and spirits from the WSET. Harrison is a regular on Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch and author of several renowned books on the world of spirits, including the Fortnum & Mason award-winning Distilled, which has been translated into nine languages. A Keeper of the Quaich, the highest honour in Scotch whisky, and a Wine & Spirit Education Trust-trained educator, he has been involved with the IWSC as a panel chairman and judge for many years.

Producer Matt Longfellow said his team would be making the most of the winery’s amazing location and stunning settings, using multiple cameras both indoors and outdoors to create a “sumptuous” effect.

The IWSC has decided there will be no physical trophies this year. Christelle Guibert explained that the money saved would instead be donated to the Drinks Trust to support people who have been most affected by the pandemic. Twenty-one awards will be presented.

Best in Show

Roebuck Estates Classic Cuvee Brut 2014

> David Kermode

> Joel Harrson

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SALES AND MARKETING

22

uson

In May 2009, high end supermarket Waitrose became the first UK retailer to plant its own vineyard, choosing the chalk soils of the Leckford Estate near Stockbridge in Hampshire as home to the grapes that would be used in its high quality sparkling wine, marketed in store as Leckford Estate Brut. Vineyard spoke to Partner and Leckford Estate Farming Manager Andrew Ferguson to find out more.

F erg

In conversation...

A ndrew

How did you come to manage the estate farm and the vineyard?

I joined Leckford Estate as the senior farming manager in 2011. Before that I had spent more than 18 years in Kent, for much of that as a lecturer and farm estate manager at what was Wye College, which latterly became part of Imperial College before the campus was closed in 2007.

I stayed in Kent for another few years managing an organic farming estate near Folkestone, but having grown up on a hill farm in Scotland and managed diverse farming enterprises in Kent, it was a logical step to take on the challenge of managing the highly diversified farming operations on the Leckford Estate, the Waitrose & Partners Farm in Hampshire.

What inspired a retailer to plant a vineyard in 2009?

In 2008 I had prepared an investment appraisal for planting a vineyard on the farm I was managing at the time. That didn’t happen, but unbeknown to me Leckford Estate had done the same thing and had decided to proceed.

There were several key reasons why Waitrose chose to plant a vineyard: Waitrose overtrades in champagne and sparkling wines and has a highly experienced and qualified buying team. The idea of being the first supermarket to plant its own vineyard is one that I believe came from the wine-buying team.

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Waitrose is part of the John Lewis Partnership, an employee-owned company, so members of the wine-buying team, like all Partners, are essentially co-owners of Leckford Estate. How great that the business could bring the idea to life. The fact that the chalk soils of Leckford lend themselves so well to vine growing, and the fact that the estate already had experience in growing top fruit on 200 acres of orchards there, made the decision a bit of a ‘no brainer’. It was a perfect match of commercial opportunity and established resources.

What special features does the vineyard have and how does that make the wine special?

In 2009, the estate management team had 4,000 acres from which to select the optimum location - and they did. The south-facing slope on chalk downland lies in a dry valley that leads down into the River Test valley proper. It’s a fantastic location for a vineyard. Indeed, even when extending the vineyard by an additional 50% in 2017, I recognised that that was probably our limit in terms of the best possible location for growing vines at Leckford.

The other special feature is our Vineyard Manager, Colin Pratt. He’s been working on the estate for 24 years and is passionate about making our vineyards a success.

Does growing grapes for Waitrose add any particular pressure to the job?

There is certainly a feeling that if we get it wrong, we’d be letting down a lot of people! However, the pressure we put on ourselves to do the best we can is likely no different to that experienced by all professional vine growers.

How was this year’s harvest and what are you expecting from the 2020 vintage?

Three consecutive night frosts in mid-May rendered this year’s harvest a disappointment before the vine leaves had barely emerged.

Our natural frost protection was, we thought, enhanced with candles and hot air blowers, but almost immediately we realised that the frosts we experienced those three nights in May were resistant to the protection we had in place.

Although the harvest was ultimately a very low yielding affair, the warm summer did help with a slightly earlier ripening.

Who makes your wine?

Our winemaker is Simon Roberts at Ridgeview Estate Winery. Simon and the multi award-winning team there have been expertly producing our Leckford Estate Brut since the first vintage in 2011.

I think to be a great winemaker you have to be a scientist and an artist. A key skill must be excellent sensory analysis; it’s certainly something Simon has and I don’t.

What does Waitrose look for in terms of the English wines it stocks alongside its own?

Quality is always the primary consideration. Our wine buyers are always on the hunt for brilliant quality English wines, with real personality and character, to add to the Waitrose collection.

They take great pleasure in finding wines from new vineyards that Waitrose doesn’t already stock and then introducing them to customers, who love the novelty of having locally produced great quality wines. We are a nation of keen wine drinkers that has relied in the past on other nations to provide the goods, so self-sufficiency feels good! We all now live pretty close to a vineyard and there is a collective mood to want to support local businesses and a growing appreciation for provenance.

Do you have plans to create a still wine?

No, we are not likely to expand our vineyard area in the foreseeable future, so we will focus on what we have, which is a vineyard capable of producing quality grapes of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier for sparkling wine production.

How enthusiastic are you about the future of English wine and what part do you see Leckford playing in it?

Our Waitrose & Partners champagne and sparkling wine buyer Becky Hull MW (who answered this question) believes there is a real energy in the English wine industry at the moment and a huge collective ambition to get the country drinking and enjoying great quality English wine.

From 2014 to 2017, Waitrose’s English wine sales were almost doubling every year. It was going really well, and then nationally we had a poor 2015 vintage followed by a complete disaster in 2016 which slowed things considerably.

Since then, a few poor vintages have hampered attempts to really push volume sales forward.

There is always a couple of years’ delay from a poor vintage affecting availability of non-vintage (NV) blends, but just as English wine was really pressing the accelerator, we had to slam on the brakes because of 2015 and 2016.

The excitement in the industry now is that the brilliant 2018 vintage, which was perfect quality and plentiful, is now coming through in non-vintage blends, so we will be able to really ramp things up. There is huge volume up and down the country about to be unleashed, and a general view that England can now begin to realise its potential.

As our own vineyard and flagship English sparkling wine, Leckford will play a pivotal role in growing the acclaim and sales of English fizz at Waitrose.

23

WINE REVIEWS Mat h e w

Acid trip

es Juk

Welcoming an emerging trend in English wines.  www.matthewjukes.com paper-plane, vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk

This is the very first time in my life that I have recommended three wines that I don’t love. I really like them, but love is not yet in the air.

This is because these wines are all, officially, too young to drink and this is, most definitely, a good thing.

I am starting to spot a welcome and emerging trend in top-level English wines. Years ago, and I mean heading back to the dawn of time, English wines were all too young to drink for their entire lifetimes. They died with a massive, unripe, acid thunderbolt skewered through their spines. Then, in the ‘middle ages’, English wines started to soften. While yearning for some semblance of genuine ripeness and doing everything in their power to soften their searingly acid stances, wines often ended up sloppy and pulpy around the midriff, lacking refreshing tension and dynamism.

Thank goodness the age of these jellyfish wines was brief, and so I am pleased to declare that we are now entering a balanced phase – one which I dearly hope continues forevermore. Acid is a wine’s friend, whether it’s sparkling, white, rosé, red or sweet. Firm acid is riveting when offset by ripe, layered fruit and we have no shortage of acidity in our great land, so we need to use it stylishly in our wines.

While the greater wine world is warming up alarmingly, we are benefitting from riper grapes, while others are having to acid adjust like it is going out of style, so we must count our lucky stars. This acid trip that we have been on has seen a gradual softening of our wines and then a careful tightening up of those ambitious creations at the top of the ladder.

I think that we should focus more on this vital ingredient in our wines, as it is their key to greatness. This is why I have chosen three wines which I guarantee you will soften and blossom over time as they relax their shoulders and feel more comfortable in their shoes. Every wine opposite is a star in the making, but right now they seem somewhat occluded, a touch conflicted or ever so slightly introverted.

This is completely normal. It’s not like Raveneau’s new releases are mellow and relaxed in their youth. 2012 La Grande Dame looks like it needs several years in a mountaintop spa before it’s ready to meet its adoring fans. And Tollot-Beaut’s entire suite of 2018s will be reclining in their caves for a few years before they are prepared to grace the catwalk. These are all wines which celebrate their acid makeup. Acid is our friend, too, and we are learning how to use it like scintillating quicksilver as opposed to high voltage reflux.

Love English and Welsh wine?

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N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

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MATTHEW JUKES This is winemaker John Worontschak’s most accomplished red work to date.

Coming from the splendid 2018 vintage, this is a seriously plush Pinot and it benefits from 21 months of maturation in older French oak barriques. Not that this marks the wine at all, because the fruit is firm, assured and also acutely aware that there is plenty of time for it to do its thing when the moment arrives for the cork to be pulled (although I have to say I would love to see a screwcap here!). Tasting this wine in September, just four months after bottling, it seemed somewhat selfaware and reticent. This is to be expected, because the glorious acidity underpinning the flavour gives this wine an enviably dramatic stance.

I cannot wait for this wine to gradually blossom because there is so much more to see.

Perhaps this will take a year or so, and I hope that customers realise this because it would be a shame for thirsty buyers to chomp through 2018 Red Pinot this Christmas, with their turkey, when it deserves to meet 2022’s glorious grouse.

2018 Litmus, Red Pinot £25.00 www.litmusenglishwine.co.uk

www.theguildfordwinecompany.co.uk

www.thebritishwinecellar.co.uk www.obriensbottle.shop www.levelswine.co.uk

2019 Hoffmann & Rathbone, Bacchus £19.00

www.hoffmannandrathbone.co.uk

www.hawkinsbros.co.uk www.honestgrapes.co.uk www.yorkshirevintners.co.uk

Goodness me, I nearly fell off my chair when I tasted this fabulously ostentatious wine.

I wrote ‘Oliver Reed-style Bacchus’ in my notes, which is a first. H&R has the volume turned up to eleven here and I applaud the endeavour in this swaggering wine. Only 3,650 bottles were made of this single-vineyard beauty and it was fermented in, wait for it, large-format German oak barrels, Spanish chestnut barrels and an Italian terracotta egg with a 124-year-old yeast called Sleeping Beauty. I hear that a handful of pantomimes will be going ahead this year and I guarantee that this wine is more theatrical than any performance you will see in the theatres. The acid is spectacular and without it, this wine would be Jabba the Hutt, but with it, this is a prancing prince like no other. Given a year or two, this might be one of the most remarkable wines we have seen on our shores.

Either way, I am confident that it will amaze all who fall under its spell.

There are two wines from the 2019 Simpsons line-up which took my breath away.

Gravel Castle and Derrringstone Pinot Meunier are both seemingly assembled from a blend of 50% acidity and 50% grapes, and this gives them sensational tension and also jaw-dropping poise on the palate. By all accounts, Gravel Castle is supposed to be a relatively forward-drinking wine, but please be careful because the Simpsons chalk terroir blesses their wines with extraordinary rigidity and keenness and there is no oak here to soften the crystalline edges. I often use the Chablis analogy when talking about low or no-oak Chardonnays and this wine is a dead ringer for the real thing.

But I taste a lot of Chablis and much of it disappoints because the fruit is sub-standard, cheesy and lacklustre.

Gravel Castle is pristine and the acidity here will drive this wine forwards for a good few years. I just hope someone has some stock left in 2022 or 2023 when I imagine this wine will eventually realise equilibrium.

2019 Simpsons, Gravel Castle Chardonnay £17.00 www.robersonwine.com www.grapebritannia.co.uk www.corkk.co.uk www.oxfordwine.co.uk

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25

EDITOR'S VISIT

No stranger to awards

col m Tr Ma l ig gs tor Ed i

Best International Sparkling Wine award sparked export growth for Ridgeview, this year celebrating its 25th anniversary.

Anyone who harbours any doubts about the value of awards in the wine industry just needs to look back to 2010, when Decanter World Wine Awards selected Ridgeview as the Best International Sparkling Wine. It had an immediate and profound impact.

“Export sales grew from that point,” recalled Ridgeview Director of Communications Mardi Roberts. “Over the next three years things just took off and we found ourselves exporting to many more countries.” A decade on, Ridgeview wines are on sale in 17 countries around the globe.

While Ridgeview is no stranger to awards and has topped the International Wine & Spirit Competition (IWSC)’s charts for sparkling wine on three separate occasions, it was the 2010 Decanter win – still the only time a wine other

than Champagne has won that particular trophy – that kick-started the export trade for the Sussex vineyard.

It didn’t do any harm to the rest of the English wine trade either, and it is entirely feasible that the sector’s steady growth over the past ten years has much to do with the trail blazed by Ridgeview, which has this year been celebrating its 25th anniversary, albeit in a quieter way than it was planning before Covid-19 appeared.

And while it may seem counter-intuitive, it’s clear from talking to Mardi that contributing to the success of the company’s ‘rivals’ – not that she would see them as such – is something that Ridgeview is more than happy to do, given her love of, and support

Xxxxx.> Recently built winery, the new wine production hall and cellar

26

for, English wine.

With their own brand now one of the bestknown in the industry, Mardi and the team are generous in the time and effort they give to joint marketing efforts, cross-industry marketing groups and other initiatives designed to support the sector as a whole.

Mardi is particularly interested in promoting the tourism potential of English vineyards, particularly to overseas visitors. She is playing an active part in a group called Sussex Wineries that includes wine estates such as Rathfinny, Bolney, Wiston, Tinwood, Bluebell, Stopham, Albourne and Oxney and is promoting the best of Sussex wine tourism.

Closer to home and

"Over the next three years things just took off.”

Xxxxx.> John Haite loads the press despite the limitations caused by the Covid-19 lockdown, Ridgeview opened a new outdoor space at the back end of the summer and was impressed with the take-up from visitors who enjoyed relaxing in the sunshine close to a flourishing vineyard.

“Wine tastings, fine dining amongst the vines and similar events were clearly restricted this year because of the virus, but it’s clear that people enjoy visiting vineyards, and tourism offers great potential,” said Mardi, who pointed out that growers in Kent and Hampshire were also setting up similar marketing groups.

While Mardi is helping to market English sparkling wine and boost new visitor initiatives, Vineyard and Estate Manager Matt Strugnell

chairs the Vineyard Managers’ Forum and is on WineGB’s South East Committee.

Tamara Roberts, current chief executive and daughter of Ridgeview founders Mike and Christine Roberts, meanwhile, is on the Board of WineGB and of the Wine and Spirit Trade Association and is President of the IWSC – the first English wine producer to be accorded that particular honour.

“Throughout its 25 year history, Ridgeview has always seen itself as leading the way in English wine, and we are continuing to do that by working with other growers and producers to support an industry that really is going places,” Mardi commented. “As an industry we have a fantastic product and I believe that we can compete with

the best wine regions in the world.”

Given that this is the 25th anniversary of the company, it seems appropriate that Matt Strugnell believes that the 2020 vintage is “one of the best ever”.

He explained: “The ripening period this year was amazing. It was dry and windy, with substantial heatwaves. Any rain we did get was quickly dried up by the wind, and because it was so dry during ripening the berries stayed relatively small and the bunches stayed loose, so there was no disease at all.”

Tamara’s brother Simon Roberts, Head of Winemaking, added: “To be honest we couldn’t have asked for better, and because the bunches are smaller the flavour is particularly intense.” >>

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EDITOR'S VISIT << While this year’s picking season has brought exceptional quality to the winery, the quantity will fall short of the past two record-breaking seasons, with just under 20 tonnes of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier harvested from Ridgeview’s own 4.5ha vineyard at Ditchling, on the foothills of the South Downs.

Ridgeview also buys in grapes from around 12 other vineyards, the furthest-flung being in Suffolk, and will this year use around 350 tonnes of fruit from 70ha of vines in its range of awardwinning wines.

Alongside its three signature wines – Bloomsbury, its traditional method English sparkling wine listed with Waitrose, Cavendish, which graces the shelves of Marks & Spencer, and its bestselling Fitrovia Rosé – Ridgeview creates a single estate Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs and Rosé de Noirs in vintages when the quality merits it, including 2020.

This year, to mark the 25th anniversary, the company has launched Ridgeview Oak Reserve NV, its first new wine in a decade.

The launch announcement explained: “Produced to celebrate Ridgeview’s part in the historical rise of the English sparkling wine industry, the Oak Reserve has an innovative new label design and packaging, highlighting that Ridgeview continues to be a pioneering force in English sparkling wine.”

Proven track record with biological treatment of winery waste

Simon added: “With careful use of oak-aged Chardonnay, we have created a Ridgeview barrel fermented sparkling wine. Some of the very best Chardonnay grapes were selected from our home vineyard in Ditchling, planted in 1995. I have always loved what delicate oak can bring to Chardonnay and this project has allowed me to explore the additional creaminess from the oak, in harmony with our normal fresh fruit style. We have made a unique batch of 2,600 bottles of what I think is one of the most exciting wines that we have released.”

The new release has already picked up the Sparflex English Sparkling Wine Label of the Year award in the 2020 Drinks Business Awards, while commentator and Vineyard contributor Matthew Jukes has declared: “It is bright white, lifted and energetic on the nose and palate and the oak shines through with faint smoky, nutty, pie crust hints… I cannot recommend it enough because this is one of the most carefully assembled, barrelinfluenced wines made in the UK to date.”

Amongst those who offered congratulations to Ridgeview on an impressive quarter of a century in winemaking was John Buchan, of John Buchan Agronomy Ltd. John has been helping and advising the team for some years on vineyard nutrition and supplying speciality products as required.

Contact us:  www.bio-bubble.com

While Simon is now creating award-winning wines, life was nearly very different, both for him and for the family business. When Mike and Christine Roberts sold their IT business in the early 1990s and decided to invest their time and a not-inconsiderable sum of money in a vineyard at the foot of the South Downs, both he and sister Tamara felt it might just be a pastime.

They were clearly wrong, but in the meantime Simon continued studying for a career in marine engineering. It was when he agreed to help out at the vineyard during the summer university break that he caught the wine bug. “I just loved it, so I changed tack completely and went to Plumpton College to learn about winemaking,” he recalled.

It was an important change of tack, firstly because experienced winemaker Kit Lindlar, who supported Ridgeview in the early days, spotted >> Simon’s excellent palette and became his

We can:

> Simon Roberts, head winemaker Xxxxx.

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"The ripening period this year was amazing.”

<< mentor, and secondly because while honing his skills in Australia, Simon met wife-to-be Mardi, who also worked in the wine industry and returned to the UK to work in the family business.

Meanwhile Tamara, who had been working in the City but joined Ridgeview in 2004, married Simon Larder, who also joined the family business, as technical manager. The company is proud of its family values and has grown to employ more than 30 people.

Family businesses can be complex, which is why Ridgeview relies on MHA Carpenter Box not just for day-to-day accounting and tax advice, but for help with personal tax support and the way the directors integrate with the business.

The firm has also provided help with finding

Xxxxx.> Cellar hand Joe March

30

finance partners and support with research and development costs, together with advice on business structure and set up. In a video testimonial for Carpenter Box, Tamara said she valued the fact that the firm was already active in the industry, was excited about working with Ridgeview and liked to get actively involved with the business.

Vineyard manager Matt Strugnell believes that the consistent quality of Ridgeview’s English sparkling wine is in part down to those family values and the fact that the vines have been “in the care of the same pair of hands for 18 of the past 25 years.”

Having the right agronomy advice on hand is also important, and that’s an area where Ridgeview has been supported by Agrii ever since

the business was started 25 years ago, when the firm was trading as UAP. Agrii has supplied Ridgeview with a range of agronomy goods and services, including a weather station and access to disease model forecasting. Julian Searle, Agrii Fruit Agronomist and Crop Group Specialist, said the company had worked hard over the past 25 years to “build a strong customer relationship which we hope will continue in the years to come.”

With quality top of the agenda ever since Mike and Christine planted their first vines, Ridgeview uses wirehoods and foil capsules from Rankin Brothers and sons, a family owned company with a pedigree dating back to 1774.

“Our goal is to help Ridgeview deliver their vision by creating closures of value that support the quality and desirability of their bottled wines,” commented Commercial Director Jim Rankin. >>

Agrii is the sole distributor of OvinAlp fertiliser in the UK.

OvinAlp in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, close to Sisteron: a high-tech factory in the heart of the mountains, close to flocks of sheep

Ov is the main active principle in OvinAlp, obtained through solid biofermentation of the organic matter under the action of microbial flora naturally present in the sheep manure for 12 months. This allows enrichment of the product into stable humus while guaranteeing complete sanitation and unbeatable sanitary quality.

Agrii is pleased to be working with Ridgeview.

For more information, please contact your usual Agrii agronomist, our Customer Services Team on 0845 607 3322 or email fruit.solutions@agrii.co.uk

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Proud to work with Ridgeview Wine Estate “What really stood out for us with MHA Carpenter Box was their outstanding knowledge of the vineyard industry. They knew much more than other firms and they’ve taken the time to really understand and care about our business.”

Tamara Roberts, CEO, Ridgeview Wine Estate

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> Matt Strugnell, vineyard manager Xxxxx.

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<< Ridgeview has also continued to invest heavily in new equipment, plant and cellar facilities, with the family creating one of the country’s biggest underground cellars a few years after the first vines were planted on the site in 1995.

Recent investment has seen the company create a new cellar which keeps the wines at between 12°C and 14°C without the need for any air conditioning, making it sustainable as well as creating ideal conditions for secondary fermentation.

Along with the new cellar, which takes Ridgeview’s underground storage capacity to one million bottles, the £2m investment has funded a new winery which boasts a state-of-the-art disgorging line and fully automated riddling crates.

As well as making Ridgeview’s exclusive label wines for Booths, Laithwaites and the Wine Society, the winery also offers contract winemaking, creating wines that include the Leckford Estate sparkling wine for Waitrose.

As Ridgeview has grown, its waste output has grown with it. To cope with the challenge, the company approached specialists Advanced

"Recent investment has seen the company create a new cellar.”

Aeration in 2014 and asked it to design a treatment plant that could cope with future production requirements while operating with the ‘all or nothing’ nature of winery waste.

The company’s Bio-Bubble Advanced Aeration Process combines winery and sewage waste in order to remain biologically active throughout the year, taking some of the nutrients missing from winery waste from the available sewage sources.

A remote monitoring service allows Advanced Aeration process engineers to keep in close contact with the way the system is operating, providing support and peace of mind to the Ridgeview team and making sure the waste is processed within the Environmental Permit requirements.

Ridgeview’s Matt Strugnell said the team had been impressed with the Bio-Bubble’s operation, which had been able to cope with peaks and troughs over the five years since it had been installed. “We are very impressed with its capabilities,” he added.

Advanced Aeration points out that the system vastly reduces sludge waste, is energy efficient and removes the need to bring in costly tankers to remove waste.

N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

> John Haite sends out a clear message Xxxxx.

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AGRONOMY

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vines, considering their age, trunk diameter, vigour, length of growth and general health.

Well-established mature vines can usually lay down enough canes to bow down onto the fruiting wire, and for particularly strong plants, the Pendelbogen training system (“European Loop”) may be an option. This involves laying down canes in an arc to reduce the ‘apical’ dominance of the most distal bud that can occur in canes laid horizontally. Arching can promote better sap distribution and produces more fruitbearing shoots, but will require an extra wire over which to loop the canes.

It is generally better to be conservative when removing material, especially given the frosts of 2020, so this may mean allowing more buds, leaving sacrificial canes, or delaying tying down, especially on frost-prone sites. You can always return later to trim more, rather than end up short of material having pruned too much. For plants that were slow to recover from frost damage this spring, growers will have to work with what they have, which may not be ideal.

The ‘gentle pruning’ principles promoted by Simonit and Sirch follow a clear logic and are gaining increased adoption in the UK. Briefly, they are: 1. Branching – developing a branch structure to respect the vine’s natural growth habit 2. Respecting vascular flow – thinking about the ‘plumbing’ and recognising every cut potentially leads to a ‘desiccation cone’, (an area of die-back inside the crown) that reshapes the plant’s vascular system

3. Cuts and crowns – developing the crown and trying to avoid cutting into wood that’s more than two years old. Making only small cuts reduces the area of wood exposed, so reducing the risk of trunk disease 4. Protective wood – leaving a small stub when cutting into two year old wood, to further protect the crown and preserve sap flow.

Where unavoidable, larger cuts (2.5cm+) benefit from being protected from infection while they heal. Bloccade is a useful sealant product, while Solufeed Garlic Barrier has also been beneficial against some grapevine trunk diseases. At the time of writing, Belchim looks like it may win CRD approval as a biological-based product for sealing pruning cuts.

Burning material straight away reduces disease carryover risk, but inoculum may still be present on remaining canes, wires and supports, providing a potential infection bridge that needs protecting against next spring.

Alongside crop protection products, remember that Hutchinsons also supply essential equipment needed for winter maintenance, including secateurs, wire, stakes, ties and more.

 www.hlhltd.co.uk paper-plane information@hlhltd.co.uk  01945 461177 N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

r

is

Effective pruning sets vines up for the season ahead.

Pruning typically costs around £1,250 per hectare, and for many sites it is the single biggest manual task to be completed.

The preferred approach depends on the growing system used, labour availability and the number of vines to be pruned. The main judgement when pruning is not so much about what is removed, more about what is left behind.

Generally look for canes that are well positioned, have appropriate bud spacing, are approximately pencil-size in diameter and healthy nut-brown in colour, and free of diseases such as powdery mildew or Phomopsis.

Mature vines that carried little crop this year will have more growth than recently planted vines, or those hit by spring frost, where the choice of material will be constrained. On vigorous vines, leaf fall will need to happen before cane selection can commence.

Bud number is a useful guide to pruning. Vines grown on the Geneva Double Curtain (GDC) system are typically pruned back to two to three buds per spur, while those on the Guyot system may retain eight to 12 buds per cane, and for the Scott Henry system it is nearer five to eight.

It may not always be practicable to count buds before making every cut; internodal distances are not uniform and vary due to cultivar, rootstock, site and cultivation, so bud counts are often adapted to maximise potential fruiting area.

An alternative approach is to base pruning decisions on cropping potential of individual

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The vine post

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Vine-Works Vine Grower of the Year.

Back in 2015, Vine-Works and Chris Foss (of Plumpton College fame) came up with the idea of a financial award for viticultural research, as at that time all of the ‘gongs’ were for winemakers. “Why should they have all the glory? What about the folk that do all of the graft in the vineyard?” was the thinking.

Thus it was proposed that Vine-Works sponsor the Vine Grower of the Year award. This was initially administered through the South East Vineyards Association (SEVA) region and the selection of candidates was carried out by an eminent viticulturist. The award was VineWorks’ contribution to upskilling our side of the industry and inspiring the next generation of viticulturists.

The first winner of the award was Luke Spalding, then of Ridgeview Wine Estate. His research was titled Direct and Indirect Canopy Management Methods to help Produce a Consistent Crop Yield in a Variable Cool Climate. Our award paid for Luke to visit Champagne, Maastricht and Sweden to compare how the techniques of leaf removal, shoot and crop thinning and cover crops differed between these wine regions and how they compared with those used at Ridgeview.

I caught up with Luke recently and asked how the award had helped his career. He told me: “The award helped me travel to a range of different countries within Europe and expand my research across a number of diverse vineyard locations. It ‘put me on the map’ as the saying

goes, opened a few doors and allowed me to progress. Since that award I am now a vineyard manager and I sit on the South East WineGB committee and manage the harvest report for WineGB with Stephen Skelton. I think it sped my career up by two years and fuelled my ambition to learn as much as I can from loads of different growers all over the world.”

The next winner of the Vine Grower award was Sam Middleton. He is currently researching Methods for Reducing the Incidence and Impact of Botrytis Cinerea using defoliation and bio-fungicides. This research will take Sam to Germany, Luxembourg and Italy to assess how and when the viticulturists in these regions use these techniques. The aim is to provide UK growers with the most up-to-date information with techniques to reduce Botrytis on local vineyards. Sadly, and understandably, Sam

> Sam Middleton

hasn’t been able to get to his research sites, but we’ve agreed to carry over our funding into next year, so let’s hope the situation allows this to happen.

Vine-Works is proud to sponsor a purely viticultural award that encourages research specifically relevant to our frequently underrecognised side of wine production. Our mantra has always been “winemakers are like popstars and we are always the roadies”, but we feel that viticulturists should get to share the limelight every now and again as we all know that you can’t make a good wine without great grapes.

Vine-Works will be supporting the award once again into 2021; we will be opening for applications at the WineGB Viticulture Technical Conference. The research should be conducted throughout next year and be presented at the Viticulture Technical Conference 2022. We’d very much like applicants to focus their research in the UK and proposals will be assessed by an independent panel. We are proud to have sponsored the Vine-Works Vine Grower of the Year Award and look forward to doing so into the future.

 www.vine-works.com paper-plane, sales@vine-works.com  01273 891777

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‘Squeezed middle’ Mid-scale vineyards can prosper despite challenges.

The phrase ‘the squeezed middle’ - sometimes used to refer to mid-income households – has relevance to the viticulture sector.

Thought to have been first used by Ed Miliband or Gordon Brown, the expression came to mind recently when the team and I were doing some number-crunching.

We were studying the data for hundreds of viticulture businesses in the 2017 UK Vineyard Register (the latest stats available) and checking companies’ websites – a process which yielded some fascinating insights.

Quite how much of total production was accounted for by a relatively small number of the biggest businesses should perhaps be no surprise; only 50 vineyards seemingly produce more than half the volume. The same is true of the large number of small operations that, although numerous, still only collectively accounted for a small percentage of output.

I was struck by how those at either end of the size spectrum, as in any sector of industry, are often best placed.

Big firms can have the benefits of economies of scale, they have momentum, marketing budgets, access to the latest technical expertise and cash for investment.

The big viticulture operations, often producing large volumes of medium or high quality wine, will in many instances be able to cope with the lower prices which could come as a result of the massive amount of planting in 2018, 2019 and 2020.

The smallest ones, conversely, may well have low costs, low gearing and perhaps lower expectations.

Sometimes relying on family labour, they are less exposed to risk. Often dubbed ‘hobbyists’ they can cope with – and may indeed be pragmatic about – the lean spells.

The owners of such small set-ups may not be reliant on the vineyard for their income. Some will produce wonderful wine, but many will produce lower-grade products that make them unpopular with “professional” producers.

The enterprises between these two can end up caught in the middle. Turnover is, of course, a product of many factors, but for the purposes of my analysis I have in mind many in the 6ha to 40ha range.

This scale still necessitates big capital investments.

They might be privately owned, but perhaps not by hugely wealthy people – so any squeeze on output prices, whether that’s selling grapes or wine, can hit them hard. They face unique pressures, and will do so more if and when bottle prices fall due to the increased volume of wine coming to the market.

Often dependent on achieving high prices for their margins, they could find themselves pushed hard by on-sellers and retailers expecting them to sell at the lower prices the super-large can sell at.

This squeezed middle will be where most change will come. This will be exacerbated by Covid-19, but it's been inevitable for a while. Opportunities are there, though – whether that’s focusing on top-end products, niche markets or developing more meaningful incomes from tourism.

Some will already have buildings and infrastructure suitable for visitors, while others may have to start from scratch. In either case, securing the right planning consent will be essential, as will making sure any investment will improve profitability and not simply add cost.

Sifting through the data, I noticed how tourismrelated enterprises are not nearly as widespread as I’d expected. More will have come into existence since some of the data was compiled, but our analysis suggested fewer than 10% had a cafe/

restaurant, about a fifth had a cellar door and less than a third ran tours.

I was also struck by how many vineyards didn't have a website (a glance through our spreadsheet suggests about 40%). This will increasingly become a 'must-have' for anyone dealing direct with the customer, whether that's wine drinkers or ‘tourists’.

As a consultant I'm frequently surprised by how businesses don't know what their niche is. Ask yourself: What's the one thing we do best? The one thing we have a competitive advantage at? The one thing that makes us most money? If you can answer such questions, you have the genesis of your business strategy.

Collaboration – not something the viticulture sector has always excelled in – will also become the order of the day for more in this squeezed middle.

For joint ventures of any form to work, they require shared objectives and standards, and the right structures and processes being in place from day one, with clarity about responsibilities and communication. In such circumstances, there are massive synergies to be had.

Meanwhile, there will inevitably be some medium-sized businesses who choose – or are forced – to exit the sector and sell their land and/ or business. Increasingly, this is happening through private ‘off-market’ sales and that’s part of what I do as an agent: I discreetly put buyers and sellers together and make the process happen, where there's a good fit.

Some vineyards have been around for many decades, but our industry overall is still an immature one. 2021 could well be the year of rationalisation.

Whether it was Ed Miliband or Gordon Brown who coined the phrase, the words ‘squeezed middle’ may well resonate in the viticulture sector in the coming months.

VINEYARD CONSULTANTS • Planning Applications • Site Finding • Site aquisition

• Leases • Grants

Call Matthew Berryman on 07710 765323 or email matthew@c-l-m.co.uk www.c-l-m.co.uk

36

N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

PINOT NOIR 2019

A delicate medium bodied red wine aged in French Oak, to add hints of toast.

With a smooth and long finish. Add a gift box for the perfect present this festive season.

S H O P O N L I N E AT W W W.W H I T E H A L LV I N E YA R D . C O . U K

Representing you Working in partnership with Vineyard magazine for a developing UK wine industry.

WineGB is the national trade body representing the vine growers and winemakers of Great Britain from the largest producers to small hobbyists.

Our members work together with the organisation to develop strategy, expertise and marketing opportunities for long-term, sustainable success.

Soil: the vineyard's most valuable resource The second WineGB Viticulture Technical Conference may be rather different to the first, as due to the virus outbreak it will be online, but rest assured it will be equally as informative, with presentations from internationally renowned experts. One advantage of 'virtual' is that neither delegates or speakers will

> Professor Alex Maltman

> Professor Jane Rickson

This year’s theme is 'The Secrets of Soil: vineyards most valuable resource.' A less understood, rather undervalued, but vitally important resource for successful yields and production of a quality crop.

Day 1 (17 Nov) 10am - 12.30pm ◆ Dr Mike Trought, Adjunct Associate

Professor, Lincoln University: ‘The Influence of Soil Texture on Vine Development’

◆ WineGB partners and patrons

available live in ‘chat rooms’

have to leave the comfort of their own home, office or vineyard – and the ticket prices are much reduced!

The conference will take place over three mornings: 17,18 and 19 November, from 10am-12.30pm. One ticket allows access to all presentations and to the 'chat rooms' where you can visit WineGB partners and patrons to discuss your vineyard, winery and business needs.

> Dr Mike Trought

Day 2 (18 Nov) 10am - 12.30pm ◆ Professor Jane Rickson, Cranfield

University: 'Soil water: The relationship with vine establishment and performance'

◆ Peter Hayes, viticulturist:

'The balancing act: pH and soil nutrients'

> Peter Hayes

Day 3 (19 Nov) 10am - 12.30pm ◆ Guy Thallon, FERA

◆ Caroline Hobson, Lancrop Laboratories:

'The importance of a detailed soil analysis'

◆ WineGB partners and patrons

available live in ‘chat rooms’

◆ WineGB partners and patrons

available live in ‘chat rooms’

◆ Professor Alex Maltman, University of

Aberystwyth: 'Geology and Soil in Wines of GB'

If you are interested in wine production in the UK find out more about WineGB and join us. Visit our website www.winegb.co.uk

Ticket purchase is available via the WineGB website www.winegb.co.uk/join/conferences/ .

JOIN WINEGB

 01858 467792 paper-plane, office@winegb.co.uk  www.WineGB.co.uk 38

N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

WineGB: the voice of the industry One of the roles of WineGB, as the national body representing growers, is to be the voice of the industry with government. The recently formed All Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) provides an essential link, and regular political affairs bulletins keep members updated. The APPG is chaired by the enthusiastic and well connected MP for Arundel, Andrew Griffiths, and the members are mostly MPs with vineyards in their constituencies. Recent meetings have involved the Secretary of State for International Trade, the Rt Hon Elizabeth Truss, and George Eustice, Secretary of State for the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs.

The APPG’s recommendation has been to resubmit the Cellar Door Duty Relief Programme proposal to HM Treasury as part of the

Consultation on the Comprehensive Spending Review. Hopefully this is now in place for when the department is able to review it.

The longer term aim to get the Government to introduce a statutory levy to fund marketing, research and development, and education and training, has been a WineGB ambition for some time. WineGB has now ascertained that the

WineGB Christmas campaign In the run up to the festive season we will be working to create as much buzz as possible to encourage potential sparkling wine drinkers to choose our Classic Method sparkling wine this Christmas, through a digital campaign primarily on social media and via our website, being launched in early November. The campaign will include posting #classicmethod #sparklingwinefacts across social media and via other outlets, a competition to win classic method sparkling wine cases via the WineGB website and promoting our #Shoplocal pages. We will also be running a #ChristmasNightIn with WineGB on social media on Friday 4 December – watch out for further announcements online! Our recent Classic Method Launch served as a timely message as the trade turns to promoting wines for Christmas, with sparkling wines being high on the priority list. This is the year to reinforce the message to Buy British, support our businesses and enjoy our high-quality products.

The campaign will include posting #classicmethod #sparklingwinefacts across social media and via other outlets, a competition to

necessary powers already exist and the Secretary of State, George Eustice, made it clear at the APPG that he would support such a levy if it had the support of the industry. WineGB have also had preliminary discussions with the Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board (AHDB) about a possible scheme. The political affairs bulletins are available on the WineGB website.

New CEO

win classic method sparkling wine cases via the WineGB website and promoting our #Shoplocal pages.

Our Classic Method (CM) campaign press and trade launch on 15 October served a timely message as the trade turns to promoting wines for Christmas, with sparkling wines being high on the priority list. This is the year to reinforce the message to Buy British, support our businesses and enjoy our high-quality products; Raise a glass to a Great British Christmas.

WineGB’s Classic Method Wine launch Read more about our recent launch to the trade press on page 15, and find out more about this campaign and accompanying hallmark on the WineGB website. Commenting on the campaign, WineGB’s Chairman Simon Robinson said: “We have long recognised the need to differentiate and protect our flagship category – wines produced from the classic method. This is the hero style that has put Great Britain on the wine map and led to more extraordinarily exciting developments in our industry.

“We now boast a broad range of diverse and high-quality wines in all styles. Our sparkling wines, however, remain at the forefront of our industry and are driving sales both here and overseas. This campaign has set us on the path to ensure that our classic method wines are more positively recognised among the finest wine regions of the world.”

WineGB has appointed Simon Thorpe MW as its new CEO. Simon started on 26 October.

Simon is a well-known figure in the UK wine trade with over 30 years’ experience working in the retail wholesale sectors including Waitrose, Constellation, Negociants and John E Fells. Latterly he has been running his own consultancy operation.

Simon joins WineGB at a pivotal time for the wine industry of Great Britain, which has undergone significant and positive growth over the past two decades. “I am delighted to be joining WineGB at such a momentous time for the industry,” commented Thorpe. “I have spent a large amount of my wine industry career working with wines from around the world in the UK market. Now I have the opportunity to champion our own brilliant English and Welsh producers and help them to build a great and exciting future – that is a fantastic and hugely motivating challenge.”

Farewell Sadly we bid farewell to Jo Cowderoy, our Operations Manager, who left us at the end of October. Jo Cowderoy is well-known throughout the industry and her immense knowledge and experience will be sorely missed by WineGB. Happily, though, as she steps into her new role of editor at this very magazine, we look forward to continuing to work closely with her and wish her every success.

N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

39

WINEMAKING

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Bacteria Controlling the malolactic fermentation.

What are the different techniques of bacteria addition?

are added to a warm wine and MLF is faster.

In addition, both techniques facilitate quick completion of the MLF, allowing the wine to be stabilised as soon as possible.

Fermentation management typically involves the AF is complete and carried out quickly, the addition of yeasts, then the addition MLF provides a reduction in the wine’s SO2 of bacteria for malolactic the fermentation Controlling malolactic fermentation combination rate, which is directly proportional to (MLF) following the completion of alcoholic the length of the MLF (see figure below). fermentation (AF). More and more SO2 management on the grapes, pH, yeast Bacteria have specific nutritional needs that winemakers are choosing yeast/bacteria strain and nutrition, maceration and fermentation cannot be compared to those of Saccharomyces co-inoculation, where bacteria are added managementbefore typically involves the fermentation addition of yeasts, then the addition of bacteria for malolactic (MLF) following temperature, bacteriafermentation strain and inoculation cerevisiae yeasts, which essentially require the primary is complete. n of alcoholic fermentation (AF). More and more winemakers are choosing extremely important factors. The alcoholic mineral and organic nitrogen in its free form. different techniques. a co-inoculation,There whereare bacteria are added before the primary fermentation isare complete. fermentation has to be steady until completion ◆ Early co-inoculation is when bacteria are to make sure the bacteria population will not erent techniques. added 24 hours after the beginning of AF. an aerobic metabolism (sugar mainaregoal is to is whenThe bacteria added 24optimise hours afterthe thebacterial beginning of AF. The develop main goaltowards is to optimise the bacterial acclimatisation (close to 100 % after inoculation) and save time. consumption). acclimatisation andtosurvival (close to 100% also be added to the wine towards the end of AF, at about 3° Brix, in case of a . The main goal of this technique Unlike Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Oenococcus In the case of co-inoculation, LAFFORT® after inoculation) and to save time. microbial alteration: selected bacteria will take over after yeast, and dominate the ecosystem avoiding spoilage micro-organism ® recommends the LACTOENOS B7 DIRECT, SB3 oeni is not able to use the nitrogen contained ◆ Bacteria also be added to the wine yeasts, biogeniccan amine-producing bacteria...). depending DIRECT or 450 PREAC® bacteria, in the NH4+ ion (known as “mineral nitrogen”). towards -inoculation techniques arethe alsoend of AF, at about 3° Brix, , since bacteria are added ® e and MLF is faster.

In addition, both techniques facilitate quick completion of the MLF, allowing the wine to be stabilised as soon on your wine conditions. Ask your LAFFORT They can, however, use other sources of nitrogen in the case of a late co-inoculation. The representative for the specific co-inoculation such as amino acids. The nature and number of main goal of this technique is to prevent protocol. these essential amino acids vary according to microbial alteration; selected bacteria After completion of thestrain alcholic the strain, but there is agreement that some are ment on the grapes, yeast nutrition, temperature, bacteria andfermentation, inoculation are willpH, take overstrain afterand yeast, and maceration dominate and fermentation portant factors. The fermentation hasspoilage to be steady until completion to make surefermentation the bacteria population will nottool develop malolactic is an excellent to limit indispensable to ensure growth of Oenococcus oeni thealcoholic ecosystem avoiding microrobic metabolism (sugar consumption). the production of compounds that combine with (e.g. arginine, cysteine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, organism growth (Brettanomyces yeasts, recommends the inoculation, or bacteria, depending on your SO2 in the wine. methionine, tryptophan). biogenic amine-producing bacteria etc). ns. Ask your representative for the specific co-inoculation protocol.

The bacteria are able to decompose compounds Research has also shown that only a minimal These two co-inoculation techniques are also Bacteria have specific nutritional needs that cannot be compared to those of formed during the alcoholic fermentation that concentration of amino acids is required; as low econmically significant; the total energy require mineral and organic nitrogen in its free form. combine with SO2. Thus, if started as soon as as 2 mg/L (2 ppm) is sufficient for each amino costs are greatly reduced, since bacteria

BACTERIA What are the key points and how to perform a co-inoculation?

Nutritional needs of Oenococcus oeni

FOCUS // LACTIC ACID BACTERIA NUTRITION

are able to decompose compounds formed during the alcoholic fermentation that combine with SO2. Thus, if started as soon as the e and carried out quickly, MLF provides a reduction in the wine’s SO2 combination rate, which is directly proportional to the length ee figure below).

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 www.BruniErben.co.uk  07805 081677 paper-planethe, Mark.Crumpton@BruniErben.co.uk nitrogen contained in the NH ion (known as “mineral nitrogen”).

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They can however use other sources of nitrogen such as amino acids.

The nature and number of these essential amino acids vary according to the strain, but there is agreement that some are indispensable to ensure growth of (e.g. arginine, cysteine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, methionine, tryptophan...).

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Research has also shown that only a amino acids is required: as low as 2 mg/ each amino acid under laboratory condition many wines prior to MLF enabled us to d concentrations of amino acids routinely a 2 mg/L (2 ppm).

Amino acid composition of the sample 150

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140 120

100

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How to maximise the impact of SO2 while controlling its intake * CL35: dose of total SO2 required to obtain 35 mg/l free SO2. The higher the value, the higher content of SO2-binding components in the wine 23

N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

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Amino acid content of wines at the end of alcoholic fermentation (data taken from the bibliography and assays on wines at the end of AF, 144 wines were examined in total – Maisonnave communication Free amino acids are not the only sourcepersonal of nitrogen that can use, and the species seems to favo

which it can use thanks to proteolytic enzyme activities. Studies have highlighted the positive impact of the presence kDa) in the medium for the growth of . These peptides are found in certain yeast derivatives which can bacterial nutrition.

first few days of AF, the pH can drop b

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Managing MLFDosage: differently ® LACTOENOS RANGE

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acid under laboratory conditions. A review carried out on many wines prior to MLF enabled us to 0 demonstrate of 33 0 4that available 10 18 concentrations 21 24 31 32 amino acids routinely are found at levels above 2 mg/L (2 ppm).

34

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24 to 48 hours after the start of alcoholic fermentation.

24 to 48 hours after Early the start of alcoholic Co-inoculation* fermentation.

Late 1010 density. kinetics in wine inoculated with MLB, Co-inoculation At 1.7° Baume.

Early

Amino acids are not the only required nutrient...

Strain B

significantly improves the MLF Free amino acids are not the only source of the initiation and completion of MLF in wine uninoculatedLatewith MLB.

Save time and prevent degradation.

Optimise management of the fermentation processes.

Reduce the production of diacetyl.

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1010 density.

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Monopolistic control of the ecosystem.

MLF immediately afterwards.

Safeguarding a conventional vinification

nitrogen that Oenococcus oeni can use, and the Co-inoculation At 1.7° Baume. sequence (AF followed by MLF).

Red wine MLF post pressing. species seems to favour more complex sources, Sequential At dryness and post MLF inrefer barrel. Thermo-vinification.

Reduce the potential Dosage: to the packaging. pressing.

Inoculation of SO to combine with wine compounds. which it can use thanks to proteolytic enzyme 2 Red wine MLF post pressing.

Sequential At dryness and post MLF in barrel. Thermo-vinification. Reduce the potential activities. Studies have highlighted the positive pressing.

Inoculation of SO2 to combine with wine compounds. impact of the presence of small peptides Curative To restart Restarting stuck MLF. Spring MLF. Inoculation a stuck MLF. (0.5 - 10 kDa) in the medium for the growth of Curative To restart Restarting stuck MLF. Oenococcus oeni. These peptides are found in Inoculation a stuck MLF. Spring MLF. certain yeast derivatives which can then serve as a source of bacterial nutrition.

Facilitating all MLFs, is used to: With a comparable free amino acid content, • Start and complete MLF more quickly. the growth of Oenococcus oeni is favoured in • Strong implantation capacity in wines at any stage of its i • Help to restart stuck the medium enriched with yeast derivative B, or sluggish MLFs. • Especially for its resistance to (up to Encourage and pH, selected high alcohol). containing the highest •percentage of MLF small-under difficult conditions (Low temperature sized peptides (between 0.5 and20 10-kDa).

Dosage: 40 g/hL (200 - 400 ppm).

• An exclusive production process, developed by Work carried out by LAFFORT® and by teams ≤ 16 % vol. ≥ 3.2 ≤ 60 mg/L (60 ppm) phase. starter supplied with≥ 16°C the bacterium. of independent researchers enabled us to ≤≤ 16 15 % % vol. ≥ 3.3 ≤ 40 mg/L (40 ppm) ≥ 18°C vol. ≥ 3.2 ≤ 60 mg/L (60 ppm) ≥ 16°C rely on robust data in order to select specific Dosage: refer to packaging.

1 kg yeast derivatives for the formulation of 17 % % vol.

3.3 60 mg/L mg/L (60 16°C ≤≤ 15 vol. ≤≤ 40 (40 ppm) ppm) ≥≥ 3.3 ≥≥ 18°C MALOBOOST®. ≤≤ 16 vol.

2.9 ≤ 60 60 mg/L mg/L (60 (60 ppm) ppm) 16°C 17 % % vol. ≥≥ 3.3 ≤ ≥≥ 16°C MALOBOOST® significantly improves the MLF kinetics in wine inoculated with MLB, and ≤ 16 % vol. ≥ 2.9 ≤ 60 mg/L (60 ppm) ≥ 16°C allows the initiation and completion of MLF in wine uninoculated with MLB.

• Very resistant strain particularly suited for restarting MLF Specific preparation for the • Theduring adaptation acclimatisation phase (based on inactivated yeasts).

26

Doses supplied with (multiple step pro is made by data sheet). The activator is supplied with the bacterium.

26

Dosage: refer to packaging.

20 - 40 g/hL

Activator of lactic acid bacteria, facilitates the start of MLF and accelerates the kinetics (inactivated yeasts).

(200 - 400 ppm)

1 kg

Work carried out by and by teams of independent researchers enabled us to rely on robust data in order to select specific yeast derivatives for the formulation of .

Malic acid degradation kinetics 3 2.5 2

25

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45

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Study of Cabernet Sauvignon wine reluctant to go through MLF (ABV: 14.04% vol.; 3.62; L-malic acid: 3.34 g/L). Comparison MLF carried outinwith and without inoculation withallows significantly improvesofthe MLF kinetics wine inoculated with MLB, and ® the initiation andacid completion in (10 wine uninoculated with MLB. (30 g/hL / 300 selected lactic bacteria of atMLF 1 g/hL ppm).

Addition of MALOBOOST ppm) 24 hours before adding bacteria for the inoculated wine and at the same time for the non-inoculated wine. Temperature of the trial: 18°C

In instances where the wine displays limi levels, nutritional deficiencies, problemat and progress of MLF.

In instances where the wine displays nutrient specific for bac limiting characteristics (low pH, high level of clarification, high TA or SO2 levels, nutritional deficiencies, problematic AF etc), the addition of an MLF nutrient is essential for the activation and progress of MLF.

N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

41

CONTRACT WINEMAKING

Growing grapes is one thing...

> Itasca Wines

The phenomenal growth of viticulture in the UK is seeing new vines planted across the country every year, meaning that there are considerably more vineyards than there are wineries.

With growers keen to see the fruits of their labour turned into fantastically drinkable UK wine, contract winemaking is playing an increasingly important part in the industry.

42

There is a romanticism around planting a vineyard that can sometimes get in the way of the more practical considerations – like what on earth to do with all those grapes once they arrive.

It’s a phenomenon that Itasca Wines founder Malcolm Walker has noticed in the past, and one that he has now put to good use by offering growers an expert wine-making service As a business venture, it came about almost by accident, albeit with a hefty price tag attached. It was after planting his own vineyard in Hampshire with business partner Simon Porter that other growers approached him and asked if he was likely to have any capacity to handle their grapes.

“It soon became clear that there was a need for a winery that could offer contract winemaking to people who had a love of vineyards and the skill to grow grapes but did not have the facility or the equipment to make wine from them,” said Malcolm, a film and TV producer by profession.

“That need is likely to increase in the future, too. A lot of the more established vineyards that do have their own wineries have been offering contract winemaking to take up the slack in their own facility, but as their own wines take off, it will leave them with less spare capacity to offer to other growers.

“Add to that the phenomenal growth in the popularity of English wine, particularly the sparkling variety that is rivalling the output from France, and it is clear that contract winemakers are set to play an increasingly important part in this rapidly expanding industry.”

Malcolm’s move into viticulture began after he moved his TV and film production company Itasca Films to offices at Penn Croft Farm, Crondall, Hampshire eight years ago. Already a wine

N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

enthusiast from a consumer perspective, he began filming a 12-part wine travelogue called Cellar Rats, meeting and learning from experienced wine growers and makers.

Meanwhile his new landlord, farmer Simon Porter, had for some time been toying with the idea of planting grapes at Penn Croft Farm, which has long been farmed under Conservation Agriculture principles and benefits from rich and healthy soil.

With Malcolm’s new-found contacts, Simon’s prime Hampshire soil and a mutual love of grapes, wine and an exciting business challenge, the partnership was born. The first vineyard – 9,600 vines planted four metres apart using the Scott Henry System – was planted in May 2019, with the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Bacchus vines all planted by hand under the watchful eye of Vine Care UK’s Paul Woodrow-Hill.

“It wouldn’t have happened even five years ago,” Malcolm admitted. “It was filming for Cellar Rats that showed me just how far English wine had come and how much of a demand there was for it. I realised how many talented viticulturists had come out of places like Plumpton College, gone around the world learning their trade and then come back to the UK to make great wine. It was an eye-opener for me and I wanted to be part of it.”

At that point the idea was to grow great grapes, find a winemaker who would turn them into wine and film the result, but the story soon took on a life of its own. “We were suddenly getting calls from all over the place from growers who wondered if we would have spare capacity,” Malcolm recalled.

“We did some research and realised that there was a real imbalance between the number of vineyards now springing up in the UK and the

number of wineries on hand to create the end product. Some people find the idea of planting a vineyard romantic but don’t think beyond that – and in any event setting up your own winery takes a significant amount of capital and many growers simply can’t afford it.

Malcolm and Simon did the maths, tallied up the number of growers who had already made contact with them and took the plunge, replacing two disused barns at Penn Croft Farm with a smart, new state-of-the-art winery. It was a challenge, with work only starting in February this year, but by September it was ready and waiting for the first grapes of the 2020 harvest.

With Penn Croft Farm’s own grapes not due to be ready until 2022, Itasca’s Head Winemaker Ben Smith has this year made 3,000 bottles of English sparkling wine using grapes from Jenkin Place Vineyard three miles away. From this November, those same vines will formally become part of the ‘Penn Croft’ stable, since Itasca has now leased the Jenkin Place vineyard from owner Simon Bladon on a seven-year deal.

Ben will also be making wine for a number of other growers that have taken advantage of the new contract winemaking service on offer from Itasca, including Petworth-based Coldharbour, Wooton Vineyard in Somerset, Kenton Park Estate near Exeter and two vineyards in Essex.

Another intriguing deal will see Itasca supplied with juice from South African vines that will be used to make 67,000 bottles of British – not English – sparkling wine under the Lady Fizz brand. “It’s pitched as being a cut above Prosecco,” Malcolm explained. “We are excited at the prospect of making wine from South African grapes.”

To smooth the process of making wine from grapes grown all over the country, Itasca >>

> Itasca Wines

> Langham Wine Estate

43

Photo © Bryan McComb

> Defined Wine << delivers its own standard-sized bins to its clients around the country and then collects them once they are full. It’s a lot of work servicing clients as far away as Exeter – and makes Malcolm a difficult man to get hold of for an interview – but it makes life easier in the long run.

The purpose-built winery also simplifies the process. “The grapes go in one end and then two years later English sparkling wine comes out the other end, bottled, labelled and ready to be handed over to the satisfied customer,” Malcolm said. The winery will also make some still wine but is focussing on fizz.

At the helm will be Ben Smith, Head Winemaker at Oxney wine Estate in West Sussex for five years before joining Itasca Wines. “We are thrilled to have someone of Ben’s talents on the team,” said Malcolm. “His knowledge and experience have also helped us optimise the winery design and layout.”

Importantly, Ben will also be working with the growers throughout the year, visiting to discuss vine health, advising on the right time to pick the grapes and discussing the right blend to create the ultimate wine. “It’s a complete service that is designed to support the grower throughout the process as well as delivering the wine at the end of that process,” said Malcolm.

The Itasca winery has a maximum throughput of 800 tonnes, although the site has room to expand in future if necessary. Malcolm is expecting it to handle 100 tonnes in this, its first year in operation.

The winery currently has one two-tonne and one four-tonne Europress and is planning to add an eight-tonne version next year. It has 32 stainless steel Letina fermentation tanks and a fully automated bottling line, together with riddling cages and a full disgorging and packing line, all French in origin.

> Langham Wine Estate

44

Photo © Mark Newton

> Off beat Wines

“Fitting out the winery cost around £1.3m, on top of the £1m cost of the building, but with English wine taking off as it has been, we feel there is a clear demand for such a state-of-the-art facility,” said Malcolm. “It’s long-term investment, but it does show important facilities like these are for growers who really couldn’t afford to build their own.”

The close relationship between growers, winemakers and others in the industry also delivers new clients. “This is an industry where everybody helps everybody else and everyone shares information, despite officially being in competition with each other,” Malcolm said. “Word of mouth spreads quickly and growers are quick to recommend services to people they know would benefit. It’s very refreshing.”

And this year’s harvest? “The tonnage looks like it might be low, but the quality is good. I think this will be a good vintage.”

With such a clear demand for winemaking capacity, it seems surprising that the UK boasts only one contract-only production facility, but Defined Wine’s Henry Sugden has that honour.

After serving in the Army and working in the City, wine enthusiast Henry set up the winery just outside Canterbury in Kent last year and is already building up a good customer base amongst growers across the South East who value the care and attention the Defined Wine team dedicates to each project.

“We find growers like the fact that the focus is purely on their wine,” said Henry. With wineries that offer spare capacity there can sometimes be a tension between concentrating on their own vintage and looking after their other customers. “With Defined Wine

"We visit the vineyards and run viticulture sessions.”

Langham Vineyard Mag Ad AW.pdf 1 15/10/2020 14:22:13

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that is not an issue. We have no brands of our own, so all our clients are CY important to us.

CMY “We can take the grapes from crate to case or support growers or wineries in whatever way works for them, whether they pick into crates K or bins or machine harvest. And although we don’t grow grapes or sell wine, we believe that we need to help growers with both, so we visit the vineyards and run viticulture sessions as well as providing marketing support.”

The 2020 vintage, Defined’s second, has been made by Poppy Seeley, who has a Masters Degree in Oenology from Plumpton College and has made wine in countries all over the world, including Australia, New Zealand, the US and South Africa.

Defined, which makes both still and sparkling wine, also has the support of consultant winemaker Owen Elias, recently nicknamed “the Gandalf of English Winemaking” by Vineyard contributor Matthew Jukes, while new head winemaker Nick Lane, due to join the team shortly, has been working in Champagne for no less a brand than Dom Perignon.

Henry has invested heavily in ensuring Defined has top quality equipment, particularly in the laboratory. Alongside three different presses and a range of temperature-controlled tanks, the largest of which can hold 20,000 litres and the smallest 500 litres, the vineyard has a Pall crossflow filter and a series of gyro cages to support the disgorging, bottling and labelling equipment. >>

N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

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> Offbeat Wines: Daniel and Nicola Ham with Jarvis

Photo © David Charbit

<< The lab has an Oenofoss machine for detailed analysis, along with a spectrophotometer, turbidimeter, density meter, heat bath and equipment to analyse the amount of dissolved oxygen and dissolved carbon dioxide present, which is particularly useful before bottling still wines. The disgorging line has a jetting unit to reduce oxidation and automatically checks 100% of bottles for fill level and cork and wire integrity.

One of the largest producers in the South West is Langham Wine Estate, where head winemaker Tommy Grimshaw favours what he calls a “hands-off approach”, although he is happy to work with growers who prefer more intervention.

Tommy likes to allow spontaneous fermentation using the indigenous yeast that arrives with the grapes as he believes it gives “a true representation of the site where it was grown”. He doesn’t filter or fine the wine unless asked and he uses a 50/50 mix of stainless steel and oak barrels, preferring the latter because it helps to create a more complex base for English sparkling wine and adds texture to still wines.

It is an approach that has seen Dorset based Langham Wine Estate win numerous national and international awards and trophies, including a WineGB Supreme Champion Award for its Blanc de Blancs 2015.

“We offer the complete winemaking service and we are happy for our growers to contribute as much or as little as they choose,” said Tommy. “The customer can

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N O V E M B E R 2020 | V I N E YA R D

hand over the grapes and come back when they collect their wine or they can be fully involved in the process and work with us throughout.

Tommy, who is expecting to make 60,000 bottles this year, pointed out that the Langham Estate equipment was all chosen for its gentle action. “We are looking for quality rather than volume,” he explained. The winery has the capacity to make another 40,000 bottles and space to expand as demand increases.

Langham was home to winemaker Daniel Ham until two years ago, when he left to follow his own minimal-intervention approach through his own company, Offbeat Wines, based in Wiltshire.

Daniel met grower Hugo Stuart when he asked Langham Wine Estate to make wine from his vineyard at Botley’s Farm, Downton, near Salisbury.

The pair shared a common approach to winemaking and when Daniel discovered that Hugo was looking to set up a winery at Downton he decided to rent a building at the farm, invest in the necessary equipment and set up Offbeat Wines.

As well as buying in fruit – mainly organic, biodynamic and minimally sprayed grapes – to make its own wine, Offbeat Wines is offering contract winemaking, with this year’s split looking set to be roughly 50/50.

Daniel likes to pursue a natural approach, and while he does produce English sparkling wines, he is also keen to make other styles that he believes work with grapes grown in this climate. He also enjoys working with less fashionable grapes like the Germanic hybrid varieties that were planted before the current boom – varieties such as Solaris, Triomphe, Madeline Angevine and Rondo “I like to start with the fruit and make a wine that the grapes lend themselves to,” he commented. Daniel also created more unusual wines including pet nat and skin contact styles. Pride of place in his new winery is a two-tonne traditional Coquard square basket press from Champagne, built in the 1970s but refurbished and delivering a very gentle press. He uses a range of barrels and even a terracotta amphora from Italy.

“Having started the business in January and then gone straight into lockdown, this year has been a bit of a roller-coaster, but everything is now up and running and we are working closely with a number of clients who share our vision,” Daniel added.

MACHINERY

The vineyard tractor ready for tomorrow NP Seymour showcase Fendt’s new 200 VFP Vario at the National Fruit Show Live.

News that the Covid-19 pandemic meant this year’s National Fruit Show was going to be held online inspired long-standing supporters and major sponsors NP Seymour to pull out all the stops to make the virtual event as eventful, memorable and unmissable as normal.

Having released several teasers over the past few months, German tractor manufacturer Fendt finally unveiled its new range of vineyard tractors in a global online premier on 7 October 2020.

As the UK’s leading specialist tractor and machinery dealership and national distributor for this popular AGCO brand, NP Seymour visited the Fendt Forum in Germany to take a closer look at the newly launched 200 V/F/P Vario.

“During lockdown we started filming and sharing a few machinery demonstration videos for customers and as these proved popular we decided to record an exclusive video of the new Fendt, which we premiered on our virtual stand at the National Fruit Show ‘Live’,” said Claire Seymour, sales and marketing manager of the Goudhurst-based family-run firm.

Designed specifically for use in specialist crops such as vines, hops and orchards, all five models of the latest Fendt 200 VFP Vario, the 207V, 208V, 209V, 210V and 211V, are equipped with the stepless Fendt Vario gearbox, with outer widths ranging from 1.07 metres to 1.68 metres. With its three-cylinder, 3.3-litre AGCO Power engine, the maximum power range of this series runs from 79 hp to 124 hp, with growers able to choose from Power, Profi and

Profi+ versions.

The Fendt 200 VFP Vario's new four-pillar cab is more spacious, and this new design means that the cab air filter system can be upgraded to Protection Category 4, with protection against dust, liquid fertilisers and their vapours to meet all requirements for plant protection use and keep the driver safe. The Fendt 200 VFP Vario also offers fully equipped implement attachments at the front and rear and on both sides for mid mounting implements.

The innovative power-boost concept DynamicPerformance on the Fendt 211 VFP Vario releases 10 hp more power on demand. It is not tied to driving speeds or special operational tasks and while the engine power of tractors is typically distributed across numerous power consumers, such as the PTO, hydraulics, engine fans and air conditioning, this system detects when certain components need more power and provides a boost with smart control.

Drivers of the Fendt 200 VFP Vario Power model can enjoy a digital display area for the first time, with a 10" digital dashboard that can be operated via the push dial on the steering column, fitted as standard. This makes it much easier, faster and clearer to configure engine and gearbox functions and working hydraulics, among other things.

The FendtONE operating concept also opens up new control possibilities in the Fendt 200 VFP Vario Power. The new control panel and multifunction joystick allows operators to proportionally control two valves and adjust the active speed of the cruise control, all with

youtube

the dial on the joystick. There is also a 12" terminal to show various machine functions, lane guidance options, ISOBUS functions and attachment functions, and the display can be customised to suit the driver's needs.

The Fendt 200 Vario Profi is perfectly equipped for using complex equipment, with its standard load-sensing pump and optional 3L joystick, which can be used, among other things, to operate a leaf remover with an integrated function for the third hydraulic circuit. Power Beyond connectors, or two additional central hydraulic control units, extend the hydraulic equipment from the Profi variant upwards to give up to eight proportional control units, including the front power lifts.

With the invention of the Fendt 200 VFP Vario Profi+, the narrow-gauge tractor can now boast the complete range of smart farming solutions adopted from Fendt’s standard tractors, the Fendt 300 Vario and Fendt 700 Vario.

In addition to the Fendt Guide lane guidance system (formerly VarioGuide), Fendt 200 Vario Profi+ is available in the agronomy module of Fendt Task Manager, which allows vineyard managers to create job orders in the office, or on the move, and send them straight to the operator in the machine. Once the work is done, Fendt Task Doc (formerly VarioDoc Pro) can automatically send the job order to the office, which makes it easier to document the work carried out.

The new Fendt 200 Vario is now available for purchase, with the first models due to roll off the production line from January 2021.

For those who may have missed the 2020 National Fruit Show, footage can be viewed on NP Seymour’s YouTube channel: www.youtube.com/user/NPSEYMOUR

47

01580 712200 sales@npseymour.co.uk

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New full-size Ranger line-up With consumer-inspired improvements all round, the Ranger 1000 is designed to be the ultimate workhorse capable of getting the toughest jobs done.

The all-new ProStar 1000 single overhead cam engine is optimised to provide more torque at lower RPM, and there is an all-new Pro-PVTi clutch system to deliver smooth drivability at low speeds and allow users to get the most out of the class-leading 1,134kg towing capacity. The Ranger 1000 offers 30.5cm of ground clearance and 25.4cm of suspension travel on the front and rear to rise above any obstacle, plus a payload capacity of 454kg and a tight turning radius to stay agile in tight spaces. It is equipped with multiple 'lock & ride' mounting locations to add key accessories needed for the job at hand.

The Ranger has a completely redesigned front end and features a heavyduty steel front bumper and a full-body skid plate, providing more protection from unforgiving terrain. A quick release grille panel adds to the distinct style and is integrated into the front of the Ranger 1000 for easy access to the radiator for service and cleaning. A new high-capacity, round air filter has been conveniently located for easy access, inspection and maintenance.

Longer-lasting, quieter and maintenance-free sealed suspension bushings come as standard, and CV guards have been carried forward for additional A-arm protection. The new Pro-PVTi clutching system has been engineered from the ground up, with large internal wear components to deliver enhanced drivability, reliability and control. Enhanced durability, protection and ease of maintenance make the Ranger 1000 stronger and tougher, no matter the task.

Available in Sage Green as standard, the Ranger 1000 is also available in a Nordic Pro special edition, featuring a glossy black pearl paint finish complemented by bright Velocity Blue springs, an in-cab heater and cab seal kit fitted as standard, along with 12-inch black aluminium wheels and a Polaris PRO Heavy-Duty 2041kg winch for a helping hand in tricky situations.

The CESAR Security System, powered by Datatag, is the official security initiative of the Agricultural Engineers Association (AEA) and is fitted as a standard feature on all new Suzuki utility ATVs. However, this outstanding security system is anything but standard.

Datatag is a unique security system comprising layers that will never wear out or need servicing. Once fitted, it gives your ATV a unique ‘fingerprint’ with an identity that cannot be erased, however hard a criminal may try.

It is virtually impossible to defeat this multi-layered system, giving you peace of mind plus the added benefit of a reduction of up to 12.5% in insurance premiums.

With Datatag installed, your Suzuki ATV becomes four times less likely to be stolen and six times more likely to be recovered.

The statistics from the latest Suzuki ATV

Top of the range and built to be the most capable and comfortable Ranger ever, the Ranger XP 1000 also receives notable upgrades for 2021; now featuring a brand-new look with the addition of striking LED headlights to the three-seater model, and new colour options.

Not only do the updated LED lights give the Ranger a more aggressive and premium look, they also deliver 90% more output than the traditional halogen lights, for improved visibility in low-light conditions, allowing riders to stay outside for longer to get the job done.

The Ranger XP 1000 EPS is available in Matte Navy with 12-inch aluminium wheels – for both three-seater and Crew models – and Polaris Pursuit Camo – for the three-seater only – as well as the new special edition finish – Nordic Pro. Similar to the Ranger 1000, the Nordic Pro sees an in-cab heater fitted as standard, in addition to the sparkling black pearl paint finish with bright blue springs, 12-inch black aluminium wheels and a Polaris PRO Heavy-Duty 2041kg winch. The ABS version of the Ranger XP 1000 EPS is available in Burgundy Metallic.

With its ProStar 1000 double-cam overhead engine, 1134kg towing capacity, 454kg cargo bed capacity, 33cm ground clearance and 27.9cm suspension travel on the front and rear, the Ranger XP 1000 is the top-ofthe-range in quality and features. Available on certain models, the threeposition engine switch on the dash allows users to switch between work, standard and performance settings to suit their ride, while the premium paint finish, 12-inch alloy wheels and huge 27-inch Maxxis tyres make it look bolder and more stylish than ever before.

Protect your ATVs registration and theft report back this up too. Out of all Suzuki’s ATVs sold, there is only a 1.9% theft rate and, crucially, a 24.5% recovery rate, which matches any tracker system.

With a security system that’s easily installed and acts as both a powerful deterrent against theft and an invaluable aid in recovery in the event of loss, protecting your Suzuki ATV has never been easier.

Head of ATV for Suzuki GB, Mark Beeley, said, “We have been working in partnership with Datatag for six years now and we are confident that we are providing our customers with a robust anti-theft solution to give them even more peace of mind.

49

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VITIFRUIT EQUIPMENT

Jobs to do: ◆ Subsoil every alley or every other alley to break up any compacted soil or tractor wheelings to improve soil structure and root growth. The best type of legs to use are the J shape Paraplow legs as they lift a broader band of soil than straight legs. The Sauerburger subsoiler has proven very efficient. ◆ Sow seeds while the soil temperature is good and prepare a good seed bed with a power harrow or similar cultivator. Roll the seed in to ensure good soil to seed contact and remember "the smaller the seed the finer the seedbed". ◆ Spread compost and manure. This season has seen more vineyards broadcasting rather than banding. The vine roots spread out under the ground so the soil in the row needs attention as well as under the vines. Worms and other life spread the compost into the soil. Some folk like to only mulch under the vines in an attempt to smother the weeds but often the good growing conditions under the compost encourages weeds. ◆ Do a last under vine pass with the Boisselet cultivator or strimmer.

The rotary Petalmatic head is best to use as it works deep into the soil undercutting and lifting weed roots and as this season has been so dry and the ground hard the post harvest rains have softened the ground to make conditions perfect for this. The same applies for the first pass in the spring to loosen overwintered soil and root out any weeds which have established themselves. Once the soil is loosened in the spring swap heads to carry on through the summer with the simple knife blade taking out any small emerging weeds. The Boisselet can also be used with inter vine strimmers or mowers to remove unwanted tall weeds.

The rotary tool has been very useful this season removing the hard ridge of soil left under the vines by Rollhacks. ◆ If any machine purchases are to be made in 2021 take time to plan.

More and more sophisticated labour saving tools are being used in the UK and to get the best out of them requires some planning. Often these machines have multiple hydraulically driven functions and the tractor which powers them can be simple or advanced but nevertheless needs to match with the implement. Some implements are modular and one frame can be fitted with multiple "end tools" so the hydraulic systems need to match. One example is the Provitis multi role mast onto which many tools can fit like the trimmers, de-leafers, bud rubbers etc. In cab control systems can be expensive and can be avoided with planning. ◆ David Sayell of Vitifruit Equipment has the Provitis Cane Pulling Out tool VSE 430 and after extensive research in France two years ago and practical experience with it in the UK last season has one to offer for demonstrations and hire. First prune the canes as normal and let the machine do the rest. When in France the owner operator of the machine was clearing 3 to 4 hectares a day by himself while at the same time mulching the prunings at the back of the tractor.

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We did it... we achieved our target!

Itascaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Winery successfully built Feb 2020 - Sept 2020 A big thank you to all our fantastic building contractors, without your dedication & professionalism we wouldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve never achieved it!

Grape job team!!

Come and see for yourself, inviting all new customers for 2021!

Offering full pressing and processing, sparkling and still wine, temperature controlled storage (including on lees), bottling, riddling and disgorging, labelling and packaging.

Laboratory offering wine analysis services.

Offering temperature controlled storage on lees

Contact us & find out more itascawines.com | info@itascawines.com | 01252 279830 Itasca Wines, Penn Croft Winery, Clifton Farm Croft Lane, Crondall, Hampshire, GU10 5QD