Vineyard December 2023

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DECEMBER 2023

Falling in love

A fascinating visit at Riverview Crouch Valley Vineyard

INSIDE Refresh and refocus for VineWorks Pinot Noir: A grape in profile Vineyard sensors make sense

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VINEYARD for viticulturists in Great Britain

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www.vineyardmagazine.co.uk VINEYARD Kelsey Media, The Granary, Downs Court Yalding Hill, Yalding, Maidstone, Kent, ME18 6AL 01959 541444 EDITORIAL Editor: Rebecca Farmer vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk Features: Malcolm Triggs GRAPHIC DESIGN Jo Legg Flair Creative Design jo.legg@flair-design.co.uk ADVERTISING & MARKETING Jamie McGrorty 01303 233883 jamie.mcgrorty@kelsey.co.uk PHOTOGRAPHER Martin Apps www.countrywidephotographic.co.uk MANAGEMENT DIVISIONAL MANAGING DIRECTOR: Steve Kendall PUBLISHER: Jamie McGrorty RETAIL DIRECTOR: Steve Brown SUBSCRIPTION MARKETING MANAGER: Claire Aspinall PRINT PRODUCTION MANAGER: Kelly Orriss

NEWS 8 10

Mission to grow the 1%

11 15

Bird laser video goes viral

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Where photographs are included, which are not the property of the contributor, permission to reproduce them must have been obtained from the owner of the copyright. The editor cannot guarantee a personal response to all letters and emails received. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the Editor or the Publisher. Kelsey Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for products and services offered by third parties.

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2023 Welsh Wine Awards

REGULARS 20 Matthew Jukes

Starters, main course, cheese

30 A viticulturist's diary Go start a new cycle.

31

The agronomy diary

Take time to choose the right cultivar and rootstock.

34 The vine post

Harvest 2023 – quality vs quantity

44

Express your terroir

Oenological products: Is there any “magic ingredient”?

52 Representing you

WineGB Yield Survey 2023.

55

DISTRIBUTION

Distribution in Great Britain: Seymour Distribution Limited 2 East Poultry Avenue, London EC1A 9PT Tel: 020 7429 4000 www.seymour.co.uk

Predicting Chardonnay still wine vintage quality

Machinery

New CL and N tractors complete Quantum series revisions.

57 Machinery advice and tips

Extend the life and value of your machinery.

FEATURES 13

Charting a new course for vineyard technology

The VISTA Digital Mapping Project unlocks opportunities for the future.

35

Vineyard sensors make sense

Internet-connected devices and wireless communication are enabling vineyard managers to instantly access data and information to better manage their crops and make accurate day-to-day decisions.

Front cover image: Riverview Crouch Valley vineyard © Martin Apps, Countrywide Photographic

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Winery

CONTENTS Features Harvest 2023

16

Reports indicate that England and Wales may be among those countries that buck the trend of shrinking harvests

Falling in love

22 32

The environment of the Crouch Valley has added its unique fingerprint to the wines of Riverview Crouch Valley Vineyard. The 9.95 acres are the closest to the river Crouch in the whole area.

Refresh and refocus It’s just one year since the UK’s leading vineyard services company relaunched, but in those 12 months VineWorks has surpassed far more than many companies achieve over a much longer timescale.

Pinot Noir: A grape in profile

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The name Pinot is a reference to the shape of the grape’s bunches, which resemble a pine cone, or pin in French.

Re

ar mer cca F e b

From the editor

The importance is in the details.

William Morris was known in his lifetime as a poet and writer and yet it is his textile designs for which he is now celebrated. One such design The Strawberry Thief drew inspiration from the thrushes he observed in his Kitchen Garden.

Conversations this month have constantly reminded me of this work by William Morris that has found itself reproduced on everything from tea towels to notebooks.

The predation of grapes has been a hot topic. Talking to the owners of a vineyard in Wales, wasps were listed as their biggest pest this growing season, whilst a visit to a vineyard in Essex showed an attack by starlings of Hollywood heist proportions and deer have likewise been causing problems throughout harvest. To protect against predators can be both time consuming and costly, be it deer fencing or netting the entire vineyard to ward off birds, however, the awards and accolades that are being heaped on English and Welsh wine (pages 14-15) show that it is worth every effort.

William Morris said: “The true secret of happiness lies in taking a genuine interest in all the details of daily life.” This is never more true than when applied to winemaking and also the tasks undertaken in the vineyard. Growing grapes and making wine is all about details, looking at what is working and why it works.

However, my visit to Essex this month highlighted that this is a continual process. Looking at and thinking about the small things can make a real difference and that process is one that builds and builds.

In a year when wine production globally has decreased (see page 16) with environmental factors beyond our individual control, such as drought, fire and flooding all playing a part, it is perhaps even more important to look intensely at the details that we can control. Many suggest that the time after harvest is a time to correct things that have gone wrong but it is also a time to look at what went well and see if these processes can be fine tuned even further. If we all work to improve the good into the excellent then perhaps like The Strawberry Thief, English and Welsh wine will find its way into the collective consciousness in a way that has never even been considered before.

Send your thoughts and comments

6 D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

by email to vineyard.ed@kelsey.co.uk

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NEWS

Photo: Katarina Duffey Photography

Mission to grow the 1% Marasby is a unique, new online marketplace that connects customers directly to English and Welsh winemakers.

Talya Roberson and Simon Huntington who are experienced wine retailers set up Marasby to showcase the revolution happening in the UK food and wine scene.

Their platform gives producers control of their branding and pricing. Customers are given the opportunity to buy from them direct at cellar door prices with just one log in, cutting down on distribution miles and wasted packaging.

Co-founder Simon Huntington said: “With no middlemen, no hidden mark-ups, and

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no wasted distribution miles, it’s better for people, better for producers, and better for the planet.”

Marasby has a comprehensive search functionality, tasting notes and British seasonal food pairings. At time of launch over 120 wines from more than 40 producers are on the platform. These range from largescale well-known brands such as Gusbourne, Lyme Bay and Hattingley to micro producers and urban wineries making less than 10,000 bottles a year. With a second wave of producer enrolment under way Marasby is expected to have the largest selection of English wine in the world by early 2024.

Marasby Co-founder Simon Huntington said: “There is so much great wine being made in the UK right now, but unbelievably 99% of the wine we drink in this country is still imported. It’s our mission to grow the 1%.”

The online retail site is complemented by regular tastings in London Bridge. And there are plans to expand the range to other drinks and UK produce such as British charcuterie.

Marasby Co-founder Talya Roberson said: “Just a few years ago English food and wine was a joke. Not any more. There’s plenty of world class produce, right here on our doorstep. Marasby is our way to embrace and share it.”

ADVISOR Y / TA X / AUDIT

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Carpenter Box: specialist advisers to the vineyard sector

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Senior Partner, Head of Vineyards

Partner, Vineyard Sector

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As head of our sector, John looks after a portfolio of family and owner managed vineyards, wineries and associated businesses.

Sarah has over 25 years of experience in both practice and industry. She advises owner managed businesses from new start-ups to established family businesses, specialising in the vineyard sector.

John has a real passion for the success of his clients, helping owners and families to achieve their goals as well as pass on their business to the next generation.

She supports business owners by advising in business development and strategic planning alongside providing professional tax and accounting support. in

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NEWS

Predicting Chardonnay still wine vintage quality Researchers at the University of Reading’s School of Agriculture, Policy and Development have come up with a simple method for predicting the quality of still Chardonnay wine vintages. The method assumes that the historical climate of the Chablis region in France provides a suitable analogy for emerging wine regions such as the UK. In effect, Chablis’ climate represents the “jumping on” point for production of high quality still Chardonnay wine for regions that were until recently too cool.

Alex Biss and Richard Ellis compared Chablis vintage ratings as far back as 1963 with key monthly weather variables for Chablis that are well-known to have a high impact on wine quality, such as temperature and rainfall.

Though they accept the model is simple (given the complexities of viticulture and the lack of spatial and temporal granularity in the weather data), it explains around 60% of inter-annual variation in vintage quality which is at the upper end for models of this kind. Importantly, their model distinguished Poor (score <6 out of 10) from higher-quality Chablis vintages well (but less so between Good (6 to 8) and Excellent (>8) vintages).

The model uses three factors to predict vintage quality: i) mean temperature (°C) from 1 April to 30 September (TmeanApr-Sep); ii) the Cool Night Index (CNI), which is the mean minimum temperature (°C) from 1 to 30 September, thought to be related to acidity levels; and iii) total precipitation (mm) from 1 June to 30 September (PJun-Sep), approximately the period from fruit set to harvest. See formula below.

According to Biss and Ellis, the model provides a good first approximation for assessing vintage quality, and, when applied

Vintage

Score

Vintage

Score

Vintage

Score

1994

3.3

2004

5.1

2014

5.9

1995

6.2

2005

4.9

2015

3.3

1996

1.8

2006

6.0

2016

5.1

1997

5.0

2007

4.6

2017

5.3

1998

3.0

2008

3.9

2018

8.0

1999

4.3

2009

5.6

2019

4.9

2000

3.3

2010

4.0

2020

6.7

2001

4.0

2011

4.6

2021

2.7

2002

4.2

2012

1.7

2022

7.3

2003

7.5

2013

3.8

2023

5.3

Table 1: Predicted vintage scores for Chardonnay still wine (<6, Poor; 6 to 8, Good; >8, Excellent) produced in South-East and Central South England. Weather data taken from UK Met Office Regional Series: www.metoffice.gov.uk/research/climate/maps-and-data/uk-and-regional-series to the UK, ties in well with what is generally regarded as the best and worst UK vintages to date, particularly the exceptional 2018 vintage.

See table above.

One potential issue with using Chablis as an analogy for UK viticulture is that climate change has advanced the start of harvest in Chablis since 1980 from early October to mid-September. As such, Biss and Ellis eliminated periods that ran through to October as candidate variables in their model. October, however, is often an important month for UK

producers and is likely to remain so over the coming years or decades.

According to Alex Biss: "The model, when used in conjunction with median projections for climate change, suggests that vineyards in the south east and the east of England should be sufficiently above the threshold for Chardonnay viticulture to allow ripening even in relatively cool years. To optimise quality and resilience, these areas could be planted with Chardonnay clones suitable for both sparkling and still wine."

Article based on following papers:

◆ Biss, A., & Ellis, R. (2021). Modelling Chablis vintage quality in response to inter-annual variation in

weather. OENO One, 55(3), 209–228. https://doi.org/10.20870/oeno-one.2021.55.3.4709

◆ Biss, A. J., & Ellis, R. H. (2022). Weather potential for high-quality still wine from Chardonnay

viticulture in different regions of the UK with climate change. OENO One, 56(4), 201–220. https://doi.org/10.20870/oeno-one.2022.56.4.5458

Vintage quality for Chardonnay still wine = - 0.68 TmeanApr-Sep2 + 22.4 TmeanApr-Sep - 0.41 CNI - 0.007 PJun-Sep - 170.9

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t ac g tr gin ow on r n C go ble s di ila a av

Bird laser video goes viral Bellingar Estates, a 9.5-acre vineyard in the heart of Oregon's wine country, has garnered global attention for its innovative approach to protecting its precious grape crop. Owner Evan Bellingar's quest for an efficient solution to combat bird damage led him to the cutting-edge laser bird deterrent, AVIX Autonomic.

Traditionally, Evan had employed bird netting, a labor-intensive method costing approximately $800 per acre. This approach incurred recurring expenses due to the yearly installation and removal of the nets.

In search of a more efficient and cost-effective solution, Evan joined forces with a fellow blueberry grower who shared his concerns about bird damage. Their collaborative journey brought them to AVIX Autonomic, a state-of-the-art laser bird deterrent that projects a green laser light across the fields, mimicking the presence of a predator. Birds perceive the laser as a solid object, making it remarkably effective.

The successful implementation of the laser bird deterrent at Bellingar Estates brought about a significant reduction in crop damage – over 90% – particularly from starlings. Even during the birds' most active month, August, the farm experienced minimal losses, with virtually no damage to the grape crop.

What sets this solution apart is its community-friendly nature. It seamlessly harmonizes with the local community, including neighbors, Airbnb guests, and a wedding venue, thanks to its silent operation.

Evan Bellingar's success story with laser bird control took the internet by storm when he shared his experience on Instagram, reaching over 10 million people. He stated, "It took me two posts to get from 1,500 to 13,000 followers. It was really fun to share agricultural education and dispel misinformation about the laser, as some assumed it harmed the birds when, in fact, it doesn't."

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NEWS

UK biosecurity and innovation boosted with new funding award UK technical capability to protect plant health and biosecurity in the UK is set to be boosted. From 6 November new research grant funding is available for businesses working in technological innovation and the UK horticultural, forestry, agricultural growers, importers and plants and plant products export sectors.

From today, businesses can apply for a share of a new funding pot of up to £800,000 launched by DEFRA and UK Research and Innovation (UKRI) to devise new solutions and technologies to increase UK biosecurity and protect it from regulated plant diseases and pests.

The fund will develop innovations to enhance plant health inspections, both at the border and in-land, pest and disease surveillance and management of infected commodities – helping safeguard food security and mitigate the effects of climate change.

The move is a key part of our Plant Biosecurity Strategy. Lord Benyon, DEFRA Minister for Biosecurity, said: “Plants and trees provide £15.7bn to society annually in the UK and it is imperative that they are protected and the UK remains at the forefront of emerging technologies to do this.

“The UK is proud to be a global leader in plant biosecurity, and this new investment is part of the Government’s commitment to invest in new technologies, enhance biosecurity and boost the economy which will ensure protection for our plants and trees.”

Types of activities eligible for the grant include: ◆ Developing innovative technologies and practices to enhance border inspections of traded plants for planting and plant commodities, including wood and wood products, improving sampling accuracy, detection rates of regulated pests, time and resource efficiency of inspectors.

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◆ Enhancing in-land inspections of plants

in nurseries, recently planted sites or the wider environment, through the application of innovative technologies and practices to enable pest and pathogen detection in the field, reducing the risk of outbreaks. ◆ Utilising passive and scanning surveillance approaches to provide timely and costeffective methods for detecting pests and diseases in different landscape settings. ◆ Managing the supply of potentially infected or infested plants and plant commodities pre and post border by presenting alternative treatments to destruction of the plants following detection of a quarantine organism, reducing financial losses whilst maintaining biosecurity.

Professor Guy Poppy, interim Executive Chair of the Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council (BBSRC), said: “Healthy, robust, resilient plants are paramount to the health of our environment, food supply, economy and society. It is therefore mission critical that the UK invests the resource required to effectively predict, prevent, detect and manage threats to plant health.

This exciting collaboration convenes key UK partners to help safeguard plants by tackling existing and emerging infections – key strategic ambitions for DEFRA and UK Research and Innovation (UKRI).

“As the UK’s major public funder of plant science research, BBSRC’s investments in a portfolio of fundamental and translational

research ensure we maintain a dynamic and productive national capability in plant health and biosecurity. Coupled with the world-leading expertise of Innovate UK in supporting businesses to maximise the full potential of their ideas and drive economic progress, this new initiative will bring together the best in academia and business to deliver innovative, sustainable, long-term solutions for UK plant health.”

Professor Nicola Spence, DEFRA Chief Plant Health Officer, said: “Maintaining strong national biosecurity is hugely important, and today’s announcement will help tackle the threat of plant pests and diseases by innovating border and in-land plant health inspections, pest and disease surveillance and infection control.

“I encourage as many organisations as possible to apply over the next six weeks to play their part in protecting the UK’s plants and trees from pests and diseases.”

This announcement follows the launch of the Plant Biosecurity Strategy for Great Britain earlier this year which set out a five-year vision for plant health, consisting of an action plan to secure national biosecurity, protect native species and drive economic growth. Today’s announcement represents our ongoing commitment to public funding of plant health research and development which will ensure our plant health regime incorporates and recognises the latest technical capabilities.

For more information on the fund and to apply visit UKRI Funding Finder: www.ukri.org/opportunity

D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

Charting a new course for vineyard technology The VISTA Digital Mapping Project unlocks opportunities for the future.

In the rapidly changing landscape of modern agriculture, creating a standard for digital mapping is fundamental for deploying technology onto vineyards.

DEFRA’s Farming Innovation Programme and UKRI’s Transforming Food Production Challenge is supporting just that, with a new project called VISTA (Vineyard Information System for Technology and Automation).

The VISTA powered digital map of the vineyard will allow the grower to tie together many different systems so they all speak the same language empowering decision-making within structured agricultural settings. As part of the project, drone, robot and in-field sensors will be used to monitor climate and weather, crop health, soil moisture, fruit counts, and fruit quality, with the VISTA map providing the digital backbone to process this data.

Once in operation, it is anticipated that a Vineyard Manager could easily obtain and compare information, for example, to compare last year's soil conductivity maps and last

week's satellite imagery together side by side, with the locations of different grape varieties overlaid on top or by clicking on a particular part of the vineyard, the latest data gathered by drone and robot scout systems could be seen and compared to those results from the same time last season. Allowing enhanced intervention decisions about a particular part of a field, for example using a precision sprayer system to amend the dosage on those vines during its next pass, while also tagging for the agronomist at his next visit.

The project is led by a consortium of leading industry partners and will start by digitally mapping vineyards at the row and individual vine level, using JoJo’s Vineyard in Oxfordshire as a first test site. The project includes collaboration between tech experts from Agri-EPI Centre, crop mapping specialists from Outfield Technologies, roboticists from Antobot, viticultural expertise from Vinescapes, and robotic mapping researchers from the

i

University of Lincoln.

Dr Alistair Nesbitt, CEO Vinescapes said: “The VISTA project is a source of great excitement, driven by its mission to advance technology in the field of viticulture. We are looking forward to bringing our knowledge, previous research and practical expertise to the project in conjunction with collaborating with growers to fully grasp the opportunities this ground breaking project holds.”

Oli Hilbourne, CEO and Co-Founder at Outfield Technologies said: “The VISTA Project is a great example of the strength of UK innovation funding, bringing together technology companies, growers and academic partners to solve specific industry challenges.

With VISTA, the UK wine industry has an opportunity to set the international standard and export our knowledge to the rest of the wine growing world. We are really excited to get started on the project and work with UK vineyards to drive increases in productivity.”

We are thrilled to share the project's progress with you, please sign up www.agri-epicentre.com/vista-project for more information and to get involved.

DESKTOP www.vinescapes.com ENVELOPE info@vinescapes.com phone-alt 01306 733960

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CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING WINE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS

Battle of the sparkling wine world Corks have been popping all over the world as the Trophy Winners of the Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships – the largest and toughest sparkling wine competition in the world – were announced. An incredible 44 Trophies were presented to the greatest sparkling wine producers from around the globe, with some of the top wins revealing new stars to the sparkling wine scene alongside the established Greats, reinforcing their place in the ‘Hall of Fame’ of sparkling wine producers.

11 World Champions, 14 National Champions, 15 Regional Champions plus 4 special trophies , were all presented at a global ‘who’s who’ gathering of over 160 international winemakers, producers, industry, and journalists at the CSWWC 10th Anniversary Awards Dinner that took place in London at the iconic Merchant Taylors' Hall.

The crown of Supreme World Champion went to Rare Champagne for the Rare Champagne 2008 Millésime Magnum, with Ferrari Trentodoc taking the gong for Sparkling Wine Producer of the Year 2023. The Chairman’s Trophy was presented this year to Champagne Palmer & Co. for their NV Rosé Solera Magnum and The Tony Jordan Rising Star Trophy went to Sicilian sparkling wine producer Azienda Agricola G. Milazzo.

The Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships also dedicated a very Special Lifetime Achievement Award to the late Dr Tony Jordan OAM (1944-2019). Simon Stone from Stone Vine and Son collected the trophy on his family's behalf. Tom Stevenson said: “Dr Tony Jordan was quite simply a true great of the Australian wine industry, and one of the CSWWC judges from the very beginning. Tony brought such a rare quality and unique skill to the Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships, and we could spend days if not weeks debating and discussing the intricacies and philosophies of this unique industry.

14 D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

Founder and judge Tom Stevenson went on to say: “I am absolutely delighted to be celebrating our 10th Anniversary. This has been another great year for results, once again demonstrating how exciting the sparkling wine industry is Over 10 years, this competition has established beyond doubt who the very best sparkling winemakers around the world are by their wines consistently winning top honours, yet every year brings success for new regions and new producers in established regions. Having experienced the worst of the worst over the last 45 years, I can honestly say that we live in a golden era for sparkling wine. What’s terrific is that the medal wins come from both the largest producers and some of the smallest, and from long established to newcomers. Huge congratulations to all the medal winners!”

Some award highlights

◆ World Champion Classic Rosé Brut 2023

Gusbourne 2018 Rosé Magnum Magnum ◆ Best in Class English Blanc de Blancs Brut Vintage Gusbourne 2018 Blanc de Blancs Selhurst Park Vineyard (75cl) ◆ Best in Class English Brut NV Plumpton Estate NV Brut Classic (75cl) ◆ Best in Class English Brut Vintage Squerryes 2014 Brut Magnum (150cl) ◆ Best in Class English Blanc de Noirs Brut Vintage Gusbourne 2019 Blanc de Noirs (75cl) ◆ Best in Class English Rosé Brut Vintage Gusbourne 2018 Rosé Magnum (150cl) For a full list of the winners please visit www.champagnesparklingwwc.co.uk

2023 WELSH WINE AWARDS

The best yet The 2023 Welsh Wine Awards took place at the iconic Llanerch Vineyard Hotel, Hensol on 6 November.

The awards were sponsored by Vigo, a part of the Rawlings Group, and organised by the Welsh Vineyards Association (WVA) which celebrates its tenth anniversary this year. There were 50 wines from across Wales, from 12 different vineyards, making this a record entry.

All 50 wines were sampled by a panel of expert judges, with the tasting divided into five different flights consisting of white and rosé sparkling, followed by rosé, white and red still wines. The judges were tremendously impressed by the quality, awarding a total of 20 bronzes, 26 silvers and three golds.

The winning wines

◆ Best sparkling white (sponsored by Levercliff Associates

Ltd): Montgomery Vineyard’s 2020 Demi-Sec ◆ Best sparkling rosé (sponsored by Halfpenny Green Wine Estate): Vale Vineyard’s 2021 Debut Sparkling Rosé ◆ Best still rosé (sponsored by Food & Drink Wales): The Dell Vineyard’s Y Lleidr 2022 ◆ Best still white (sponsored by Plas Dinas Country House & the Gunroom Restaurant): Parva Farm Vineyard’s Tintern Parva Bacchus 2019 ◆ Best still red (sponsored by Food & Drink Wales): White Castle Vineyard’s Harry 2021.

Harry 2021, from White Castle Vineyard, was chosen as the best wine with PDO/PGI. This award was sponsored by inprint.org.uk.

The same wine was also chosen as the Best Overall Wine (sponsored

by John Buchan Agronomy Ltd), with Robb and Nicola Merchant from White Castle Vineyard being presented with the Thomas Davies Memorial trophy by Minister for Rural Affairs and North Wales, and Trefnydd, Lesley Griffiths MS. The Minister said: “A huge congratulations to all the nominees and winners at this year’s Welsh Wine Awards, and especially White Castle Vineyard on having the best overall wine for 2023.

“Welsh wines are an important part of our food and drinks industry which continue to gain increasing worldwide interest.

“It is now a multi award winning industry and I am proud of the hard work and commitment which takes place to make the best possible products for people to enjoy at home and abroad.”

WVA Chair Andy Mounsey concluded by thanking everyone involved who had come together to make the event such a success.

This included Llanerch for hosting, all the participating vineyards, the judges, the sponsors and WineGB (the national association representing UK vineyards, whose CEO was present). Finally, in particular, thanking the Minister for being present to make the awards and demonstrating once again her personal support and that of her department for this vibrant, growing and exciting sector.

White Castle Vineyard

White Castle Vineyard triumphed with the following:

◆ The best PDO/PGI wine in the competition for their Red wine

“Harry vintage 2021”

Nicola and Robb Merchant ◆ The Thomas Davies Memorial Trophy for the best wine in the

competition also with “Harry vintage 2021”

◆ Gold medal for the top red wine again with “Harry vintage 2021” ◆ Silver medal for both “Regent” Red wine vintage 2021 and “Rondo”

red wine vintage 2016

◆ Silver medal for Sparkling white wine vintage 2019 ◆ Bronze medal for both Gwin gwyn 2022 and Rosé vintage 2022

Both Robb and Nicola Merchant were delighted with the results. These accolades have rounded off another successful year both home and away for the couple. With harvest 2023 now safely in the vats it’s all hands on deck for the vineyard's latest project of building their own winery.

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HARVEST 2023

Bucking the trend News released this week from the International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) indicated that in many countries around the globe wine production volumes have decreased significantly.

Provisional figures indicate that overall production levels may be the lowest for over 60 years.

There is a combination of factors that has affected the global grape harvest. With so many countries in both the northern and southern hemispheres experiencing catastrophic weather events during 2023 the news that global wine production has suffered should not be surprising but the extent to which production figures have fallen is perhaps a surprise.

The figures do highlight countries that buck the trend, among them are France, Germany and Romania. Estimates from the USA also indicate a production increase over 2022 and an increase on the five year average. (For full details visit the website of the OIV which celebrates its centenary in 2024.)

Vineyard magazine has been sent details of numerous harvests from around England and these reports indicate that England and Wales may also be among those countries that buck the trend of shrinking harvests.

Official figures and reports will be collated in the coming months but Vineyard magazine would like to thank all those producers that have sent early details of harvest figures.

Record-breaking harvest Langham Wine Estate.

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After setting a vineyard record of 99 tonnes in the perfect conditions of 2022, the team at the Langham Wine Estate knew it was possible to increase yields from their Dorset vineyards but they never imagined it would be as much as 123 tonnes!

As the last grapes were picked, owner Justin Langham admitted to being very worried about the estate’s 13th harvest after

D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

experiencing challenging weather in the south west for the last three months and a very wet summer.

Justin said due diligence and hard work won the day: “After 17 days of picking, pressing, pumping and now fermenting, the winery is absolutely full to capacity with grape juice on its journey to becoming Dorset sparkling wine. It has been a mammoth effort from the winery and

vineyard teams and I couldn’t be more proud of the work they’ve done.”

A team of 16 pickers brought in Langham’s record-breaking harvest of 123 tonnes, up from 99 tonnes in 2022 and 55 in 2021.

Last year, Langham Wine Estate expanded its vineyard from 30 to 85 acres in a bid to keep up with the growing demand for English sparkling wine. The first harvest from the new planting is expected in 2024/25.

HARVEST 2023

Most expansive harvest Nyetimber.

Nyetimber, the world-renowned English sparkling wine producer is delighted to share the remarkable accomplishment of its most expansive harvest to date. The 2023 harvest season has set new records for Nyetimber in terms of both the number of grapes picked and the area of vineyards harvested.

Taking place over 21 days, Nyetimber 2023 harvest produced an average yield of 9.7 tonnes per hectare from its 350 hectares spanning across its 11 vineyards in West Sussex, Hampshire, and Kent.

Nyetimber's uncompromising dedication to quality, craftsmanship, and excellence remained at the heart of this year's harvest process, with its meticulous attention to detail apparent in its parcel-by-parcel approach and careful handling of its 100% estate-owned hand-picked grapes.

“This year, the weather predominantly cooperated during harvest season and was somewhat of a secondary consideration for the most part, allowing us to get on with our jobs. As with everyone involved in viticulture, we did experience some challenging moments with rain and wind, but through teamwork and determination, we achieved what we set out to do," said Senior Winemaker Brad Greatrix. "A start date of October 6th is more or less in line with our long-term average.

Over the course of the growing season various parts were warmer or cooler than average, meaning at various times our vines were either ahead or behind compared to normal, but on aggregate we ended the season with ‘typical’ timings. Thankfully, at the most crucial moments of the season, including budburst and flowering, the weather was quite favourable for our vines, and we have a large and balanced crop.”

Toast to largest ever yield The Uncommon.

Canned wine pioneer The Uncommon toasts to its largest ever yield as it becomes one of the top producers of English wine.

The first to can wine in the UK in 2018, The Uncommon created its English Bubbly White ‘Gerald’ with just 5 tonnes of Bacchus grapes.

This year, it is expected to press over 400 tonnes.

The Uncommon’s Head of Production, Phil Norman said: “It’s an unbelievable yield. 2022 flower initiation set the potential, so the lack

of spring frost, a warm flowering and plenty of soil moisture this year has culminated in a bumper crop.”

Alongside its 15ha vineyard in Kent, The Uncommon works with long-term growing partners across the south of England which increases the complexity of the wines. In 2021, it became the UK’s first Certified B Corp wine, owing to its local production, sustainable format, and support of local conservation projects.

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Photo: The Big Ladder Photographer

A huge crop Albury Organic Vineyard.

The 2023 grape harvest is complete and the team at Albury Organic Vineyard in Surrey are celebrating a huge crop.

Predictions of a ‘great year’ for English winemakers started back in May, when spring arrived and passed with minimum frost damage. A very wet July saw the berries swell

The Albury team: Alex, Nick and Dominic

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with water but also led to concern that mildew would hit the fruit, a potential disaster for the Albury team who manage their vineyard organically.

“Warm weather is crucial to ensure that a large crop is also a quality one. At one stage we were worried that all the rain would cause

disease and, as we’re an organic vineyard, we can’t rely on systemic sprays to combat this” said vineyard owner Nick. “The September sunshine was a welcome relief and we’re delighted that the 2023 harvest has turned out to be exceptional both in terms of quantity and quality”.

Photos: Albury Organic Vineyard

HARVEST 2023 Harvest began at the beginning of October and took place over three weeks of glorious sunshine and blue skies. With so many grapes to pick, the Albury team were lucky to have a record number of willing volunteers from the Albury wine club and the local community wanting to lend a hand with the grape picking.

A group of volunteers joined Nick and his vineyard managers to make a 'Pied de Cuve'. “This involved picking a few buckets of Chardonnay grapes, de-stemming the berries and crushing them by hand” explains Nick.

“We left the juice to ferment from wild yeasts found naturally occurring in the vineyard, giving the wine a ‘sense of place’ or ‘terroir’ as the French would say. 10 days later, we added the fermenting Pied de Cuve to the rest of the Chardonnay which continues fermenting in the winery – not in a barrel or tank, but in a concrete egg. As far as we know, we’re one of only two producers in the UK making wine in eggs!”

In total, Albury harvested nearly 54 tonnes of fruit from their vineyards. “We’re likely to produce around 45,000 bottles of wine from the 2023 vintage. Most of these won’t be ready for drinking until 2026 but we look forward to releasing our still wine – Silent Pool Rosé in May,” concluded Nick.

A seismic shift for the industry Balfour Winery.

Balfour Winery, one of England’s largest producers, believes that 2023 could represent a seismic shift for the industry, after a record-breaking harvest which could create new opportunities for English Wine; both in this country and abroad.

From their vineyards in Kent, plus their estates in Essex and Sussex, Balfour will produce over 870,000 bottles in 2023 - a 132% increase on 2022 (375,000 bottles) and far beyond any other previous record in their 21 year history.

Many English vineyards have seen increased yields this year after a wet summer and dry autumn provided perfect grape growing conditions, and Balfour believes that the legacy of the 2023 harvest could be felt for years to come, especially for English Wines abroad.

Figures from industry body WineGB show that in 2023 only 7% of the wine produced in this

country is exported – but with more wine now available, this could soon change.

Balfour is now targeting in excess of one million bottles per annum within the next five years, as further plantings come into production and vineyards come to maturity.

But it’s not just quantity, Headwinemaker Fergus Elias at Balfour argues, which marks this year out. Whilst much of England’s fledgling wine reputation is based around Sparkling Wines – 2023 could see a rise in more still wines and, in particular, English Chardonnay being drunk in the UK and beyond.

“In 2023 we’ve seen a real surge of interest in English Chardonnay and we have even secured a fantastic export deal to Norway for our Skye’s Chardonnay 2022. We predict that trend will continue to grow, as this year’s harvest has seen some of the best Chardonnay I've ever been lucky enough to work with,” he explained.

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WINE REVIEWS

Everyone in sales needs to plan ahead of the planner.

As we inch towards the season of goodwill and festive entertaining, I thought it pertinent to introduce a philosophy that has been part of my psyche for as long as I can remember but which will probably only be part of yours if you work in hospitality.

Planning is one of my many annoying traits, although I would not give up this often naggingly persistent sector of my brain if you paid me. Whether this means making a packing list ahead of a holiday, which has proved helpful on occasion, or keeping a fastidiously detailed diary, I have found this habit very useful while writing about wine, training sommeliers, and helping readers to buy wine. Even if you are a parttime ‘planner’, everyone could benefit from running through a simple checklist when they sit down for dinner at home or in a restaurant. Suppose you turn this notion around and possess the skill of planning and anticipation. In that case, you can train your brain to work most advantageously if, for the sake of argument, you are a restaurant manager or busy wine waiter.

By thinking ahead on behalf of your customers, you can sell more effectively.

By extension, these skills are highly beneficial if you sell to the hospitality industry – a cornerstone of any winery’s activities.

Everyone in sales needs to plan ahead of the planner! When I read a menu, I scan ahead to ensure that my order is balanced – starters, main course, cheese and, if the occasion arises and no one is watching, pudding. I mirror this menu planning by scanning the wine list, with one eye on my ‘perfect set’ of wines to pair with my order and the other eye on the direction in which my guests are travelling.

This may or may not alter the ‘perfect set’, but planning and scanning the entire wine selection allows one flexibility and can bring a sense of completeness and evenness to the bottles you drink. Rather than ordering just one bottle at a time in a restaurant, I make sure I have a few alternative suggestions up my sleeve, having read ahead in case one

20 D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

person on a tableful of fish eaters changes their mind and orders steak.

When you write a wine list professionally or place an order with your local wine merchant for home consumption, the same sense of completeness means that you endeavour to cover the bases of your chef’s menu or home cooking talents. Everyone requires a basic range of winey flavours at their fingertips, and I call this ‘Starters, Main Course, Cheese’. It is well understood that writing a short wine list is much more challenging than writing a long one because each bottle on a short wine list is called upon to multitask. Ergo, the finest wine lists I come across are those with the largest proportion of multitasking wines.

If you train yourself to plan ahead from a wine sales perspective, you can mentally prepare a handful of essential wines that work with a multitude of occasions, cuisines and dishes. As the seasons change, your patter can adapt such that these wines become multi-talented food-pairing superstars with more occasions to drink them than anyone could have imagined.

You become the maître d’, who anticipates every desire, staying one step ahead of the customer, ensuring a seamless experience.

Wines that possess flavours that can adapt to multiple situations are the most useful from a restaurateur’s planning perspective and a home consumption point of view, too.

These are the ultimate ‘starters, main course, cheese’ wines, and if you don’t make wine like these, you should. At the very least, you should think deeply about every occasion when your wine might reasonably be enjoyed and use this information in your schtick.

If you work in hospitality and don’t stock SMC wines, you are limiting your potential.

And suppose you don’t buy them for your collection at home. In that case, you will inevitably be narrowing your gastronomic repertoire while at the same time isolating some of your pals’ palates! Here are three of the best wines in the country that conform to my SMC theme this month.

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2021 Riverview, Crouch Valley Chardonnay, Essex Approx £36.00 www.highburyvintners.co.uk www.grapebritannia.co.uk www.elizabethrosewines.co.uk www.thewinesociety.com

There are a decent number of bright, clean, accurate Chardonnays in the UK. These wines stick to the old-school Chablis silhouette, and I drink this shape of dry white wine more than any other.

If you take one step up the Chardonnay ladder, you find yourself in a place that I call ‘Chassagne village’.

These are textural, silky, enchanting wines that are, or at least used to be, mildly oaked and hypnotic with a little more intensity and intrigue. This is a much more difficult wine style to conjure up in our climes because you need a particular sort of ripeness to carry just the right amount of oak nuance without your wine appearing woody or peanutty. Those wines that overstep the mark appear too clumsy and upholstered, lacking freshness and cadence.

Only 900 bottles of 2021 Riverview Chardonnay exist, and this rare wine possesses undoubted gravitas in balance with brightness and bounce. The oak nuances come across as white almond details, perfectly matching the white peach hints found in the core of this thrilling wine.

I can think of a million reasons to drink this wine, and Riverview only needs 900.

NV Langham, Rosé £33.85 www.langhamwine.co.uk www.dorsetwine.co.uk

www.leaandsandeman.co.uk www.tivoliwines.co.uk

Goodness me, this is a downright brilliant wine.

The current release is based on the 2019 vintage, and it is 59% Pinot Noir (of which 7% is red wine), 36% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Meunier, with 18% reserve wines in its makeup. A hint of old oak is used, and the dosage is a neat and tidy 2g/L, so there is nothing particularly noteworthy about this recipe, but it is worth clocking the price before we continue because whether you are in a restaurant or dining at home, this is a fiercely competitive wine.

My challenge is to think of a dish or an occasion that does not work with this utterly

delicious sparkler. I can’t even think of a person who might take exception to its flavour. It does the trick of being stunningly commercial at the same time as ticking every wine expert’s wish list in terms of perfume, flavour, and finish. This makes it a must-buy, or if you are a restaurateur, a must-list wine. I cannot think of many sub-£35 sparkling rosés that have these credentials. No, correction: I cannot think of any apart from Langham.

This is the ultimate starters, main course, cheese wine and I take my hat off to this winery. There is always a little magic in the bottles at Langham, and you cannot put a price on that!

2021 Giffords Hall, St. Edmundsbury £15.95 www.giffordshall.co.uk

I once read that value for money is based on the price of a purchase set against its efficiency and effectiveness. Well, St. Edmundsbury is highly effective; I know that first hand having very much enjoyed drinking this wine.

It is also devastatingly efficient – it hits one’s taste buds dead centre, with volley after volley of mouth-filling, complex, blackberry and spice notes. If you play the time-honoured wine trade game, ‘Guess the Price’, you will get this wine wrong, perhaps by a factor of two.

So, having proved that the value for money afforded by this spectacular wine is not just a matter of opinion, but fact, I cannot recommend this 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Rondo blend enough. You do not need a special occasion to open this wine; any occasion will do because it is generous, harmonious, and fresh enough to enjoy without food, as well as regal enough to romance even the most complex of dishes and that makes it a benchmark SMC wine.

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EDITOR'S VISIT

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The environment of the Crouch Valley has added its unique fingerprint to the wines of Riverview Crouch Valley Vineyard. The 9.95 acres that make up the vineyard are the closest to the river Crouch in the whole area. It was this that inspired the name and has also influenced the brands label design.

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Falling in love

Rebecca Far

EDITOR'S VISIT The Riverview Crouch Valley vineyard was planted in 2018 by hand, with the site having previously been part of a 1200 acre arable enterprise. The land has been farmed for three generations and had previously been planted with wheat, feed beans and linseed over the years. Now husband and wife team Umut and Katie Yesil have planted the land with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier vines forming the highly successful Riverview Vineyard.

Umut and Katie met on a night out in Shoreditch, London when they were both

at University. Whilst studying at university Umut had worked in the hospitality industry.

Working in finance at a hotel Umut found himself involved in alcohol purchasing and this sparked his interest in the wine industry.

“My first idea was to start up a wine bar,” said Umut and he pointed to the urban winery Vagabond as a model that he thought worked well.

Katie (whose family farmed the land that is now Riverview vineyard) is now the fourth generation of her family to be involved in a branch of agriculture, having originally moved from the Crouch Valley to London in 2012

to study at the London College of Fashion.

Initially therefore it may have seemed unlikely that she would end up caring for the land that has been in her family for generations, but Katie explained that her father had also been thinking about the possibility of planting vines on the family land.

The 12,001 vines are planted on 3m wide rows so that tractors can navigate the heavy London Clay soils of the Crouch Valley. The planting density is quite low at 1,226 vines per acre.

I asked Katie who is now 30 years old about her experiences of being a young female entrant to the viticulture industry. Whilst she is quick to sing the praises of the arable farming community she admitted: “There are definitely more women in this industry. Our winemaker is Sarah Massey at Lyme Bay and it is great for us to have a female winemaker in what could be << another male dominated industry.”

Umut and Katie

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EDITOR'S VISIT Instead of selling the grapes on a contract basis Umut and Katie have taken the brave decision to build a brand Whilst the difference between the Crouch Valley and the couples previous home in Shoreditch is profound it is remarkable how their previous city life has influenced, shaped and improved their vineyard business. Umut and Katie had previously run a PR business in London working with top designer brands. This experience has meant that they are keen to establish a strong identity for their brand.

The focus at Riverview is on premium quality single varietal wines. Originally the plan was to make Sparkling wine but the quality that is possible on this site allowed Katie and Umut to look at producing still wines. “The business plan changed overnight,” said Umut. Even though there are plans to plant an additional 11 acres of vines the product range will keep to these values.

“We did not take a gamble but surrounded ourselves with all the right people,” said Katie. For vineyard management advice Katie and Umut turned to Duncan McNeill.

Duncan is well known to many in the Crouch Valley. He manages 23 of the vineyards in the region alongside his own viticultural enterprise that is now planted on land adjacent to Riverview vineyard.

“There has been an element of luck in the quality of grapes that we have got from the site but we have got a good product and the hard part is now on us to sell it,” said Umut.

“You have seen the opportunity, you could have been oblivious to it and let it sail by,” interjected Duncan keen to make sure the couple do not sell themselves short.

Instead of selling the grapes on a contract basis Umut and Katie have taken the brave decision to build a brand. “From day one it was our intention to build a brand,” said Katie. “From our time in PR we used to manage other people’s products and we used to say how it would be amazing to do this for ourselves,” Umut added.

The vineyard first launched a Chardonnay from the 2020 vintage at the 2022 WineGB trade tasting. The 2021 vintage has only just been released and is already making waves.

A Pinot Noir has been added to the range and Matthew Jukes review of their 2021 Chardonnay can be found on page 21. The

<<

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Duncan McNeill

first sparkling wine, a traditional method Pinot Meunier is due to be released next year and will be eagerly anticipated. “Pinot Meunier is an interesting grape that is often overlooked,” said Katie. “From the 2023 harvest we are making a still rosé from the Pinot Meunier,” she added.

The city experience of Umut and Katie has benefitted the business in other ways too.

The day we met, Umut had returned from a meeting with an establishment in Mayfair that is considering offering Riverview wines to their exclusive clientele and Katie points out that the wine is currently being offered as an off menu special at a Michelin guide Restaurant. “Umut always visits potential customers personally,” Katie said.

As the vineyard manager and in addition to having a wealth of experience within the Crouch Valley in particular Duncan explained a little about the site at Riverview. The vineyard is planted on heavy London Clay.

In the recent wet weather the soil structure is clearly evident as we walk through the wet areas at the bottom of the vineyard.

Duncan explained that the soil is wetter than he has ever experienced and for the first time ever he tried to make a turn in a tractor and got no traction. Duncan is quick

to point out however, that the London Clay is a key part of the terroir. “The London Clay is slow to relinquish moisture so if you get a wet harvest it restricts the flow of water into the berries and therefore there is no skin splitting, so there is no need to worry about fungal bunch rot and this makes prolonged hanging time possible. We are still in a marginal climate so we do need as much of the growing season as we can bring out of it. The prolonged hanging time is not necessarily about getting super high sugars it is about getting proper phenolic ripeness.”

“The wide rows of the vineyard have the

additional benefit of allowing the evening sun to reach the fruit zone for longer during the summer months helping to reduce the acidity in the Chardonnay, but if I am being very honest that was an unforeseen benefit,” continued Duncan candidly.

“Over the last ten or twelve years we have all been aware that the GDD accumulation in the Crouch Valley has been higher than it has been elsewhere in England. There may be hotter daytime temperatures elsewhere but to drive the vine through its key phenological growth stages we need to be accumulating those << growing degree days.

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25 D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

EDITOR'S VISIT

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<< The ability to delay your harvest is key; as a region that specialises in premium still wine production what we need out of a growing season will be different from Sparkling producers in Sussex and Hampshire,” Duncan added.

Since Riverview is making premium single varietal wines it is interesting to note some of the specific details of the clone selection.

Duncan said: “For the Chardonnay we planted three clones and there are four clones of the pinot Noir. I always plant a number of clones because it provides a bit of complexity in the wine and it also spreads the risk if for example one clone suffers from poor flowering in a particular year. We have Chardonnay clone 548 and clone 76 which are well established French clones for still wine production but we have also got an aromatic clone which lifts a Chardonnay.”

Umut pointed out that this aromatic quality in the Chardonnay is something that has been heavily commented on since the release. is extremely proud as he explained: “We Speaking about the Pinot Noir clone have grown grapes to a potential alcohol of selection Duncan explained that the clones 12.5%-13% with extended hang time without are F105s, FR1801, GM1 and WEM171. “The the use of Botrytis fungicides, for me that is reason for the F105s and the FR1801 is that something that we will continue to do.” they really are the proven staple clones of There are some trials of cordon pruning Pinot still wine production in the Crouch happening at the vineyard. When the Valley. The skins are really robust; with vineyard is young and already making a the FR1801 you get a really good colour name as a premium brand it is fantastic profile and the F105s has got a real rich fruit to hear that Duncan, Umut and Katie are intensity, and that combination of the two is looking for ways to further refine the fruit absolutely superb.” that they produce. Duncan explained the The clones are all monitored separately for reason for the trial: “I like the way vines t grow vertically, it gives ripeness and harvested into separate bins to on aac cordon cing The balanpruned give the winemakers at Lyme Bay as many you more upright cane growth so you get actsunlight interception over a longer The balancingbetter options as possible.

The vines are grown on a single Guyot period of time because you build up more system as Umut and Katie want to produce permanent wood on the vine. The idea is that premium wines. Duncan explained that the you get more sap flow and more intensity in single Guyot is used to prevent overcropping the fruit. There will be slightly lower yields and provide better ventilation. Duncan which is not a problem here. It is good not to

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get stuck in a rut,” explained Duncan.

The harvest takes place late in the Crouch Valley with the fruit being given as much hang time as possible. As the month of November entered its second week, Duncan explained that harvest was still taking place in certain vineyards in the area.

This prompted a discussion about SWD. Duncan explained that the problem of SWD was really localised and that “the native Drosophila melanogaster causing sour rot was as much of a problem in the area as the invasive species Drosophila Suzukii. “Here (at Riverview) there have not been any puncture wounds of the berries but one village in particular in the Crouch Valley has sadly had a problem with sour rot in the Pinot Noir,” said Duncan.

At Riverview Katie and Umut have decided not to use sprays choosing instead to produce the grapes in an organic manner

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The harvest takes place late in the Crouch Valley with the fruit being given as much hang time as possible incorporating biodynamic principles as well.

Katie admitted that this decision not to spray in the vineyard is not something that her dad approves of. “Dad would probably like to come round and spray all the weeds off,” she said with a smile and Umut explained that Katie’s parents have been able to strike that difficult and often elusive balance between offering their advice but allowing the couple to make their own decisions which shows just how much love has gone into building this venture. There are not many times that talking about weeds has become poetical but Umut said: “We have found that there is beauty in the land looking more natural. If it is all pristine and clean there is almost something artificial about that. This conversation highlights just how far Umut has travelled from his city roots he admitted: “When I first started out I was a city boy. I had a bit of an allergy to mud but now I do all the tractor work in the vineyard and from the 2023 season have been full time working in the vineyard and the commercial side of the business.”

Speaking about yields Duncan explained that they actively managed the yield downwards. “We do a bunch reduction at bunch closure, any earlier and you risk the berries enlarging too much, so we wait until just around pre-bunch closure to reduce the number of bunches down. At veraison we take off the shoulder bunches and normally that is enough but this year we realised that the bunch weights were 65% heavier than average so half way through veraison we went through again and made more << reductions.

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EDITOR'S VISIT << “When you have a brand like Katie and Umut have yield is not the driver, quality is and quality is achieved by finding the right balance of yield and time on the vine for the berries to mature,” said Duncan. It is clear that he really knows Riverview Vineyard from the soil and the climate through to the specific clones but beyond that he also really knows what Katie and Umut want to achieve and what is important to them. It is not surprising therefore that this working relationship has produced wines that have already got people talking.

Birds have been a particular issue in the vineyard. “The entire bird population of Essex had been here,” said Katie laughing. The whole vineyard is netted every year. Duncan supplies the vineyard with 20 workers who spend a whole day putting the nets up however Umut

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has a video showing a significant number of Starlings inside the nets picking at the ripe fruit which shows just how determined these Essex Starlings can be.

Frost mitigation has been crucial for Duncan.

On his adjacent site he has a Fog Dragon with the rows highlighted that make up the circuit that he drives pulling what he describes as a mobile furnace. “The first night I used it I was driving round the vineyard in circles thinking what am I going to do if this does not work.”

Using Trac365 Duncan is sent an alarm as soon as the temperature drops to 1.5°C. He admits that he does not always want to get out of bed in the small hours of the night to drive the fog dragon around but on the 2 April 2023 the temperature got down to negative 3.3°C in certain parts of Duncan’s site. Duncan

explained that the Fog Dragon requires that the circuit is completed every 20 minutes. “If you have a frost in the early part of the season you can be out from 23.00 until 07.30 in the morning which is a long shift so you have to break it up.” Umut added that he has helped to keep the Fog Dragon supplied with wood and that Katie’s dad has taken a turn driving the Fog Dragon. Katie admitted that it has been a while since she drove a tractor but she has woken up in the early hours when Umut has headed out to help with the Fog Dragon.

Speaking about Frost damage Duncan said: “What we are seeing is that frost damage is occurring not at three or four leaves exposed but it is at woolly bud and people often don’t even know there has been a frost. If temperatures go lower than

EDITOR'S VISIT -3°C when the vines have got woolly bud and the cane is touching the wire, the wire gets colder than air and it conducts the cold into the bud. I think that is happening more frequently because the vines are coming out of dormancy earlier than they were 15 years ago. I came here in early 2006 back then if you had a frost in early April everything was still in its dormancy.”

The boundary of the vineyard is marked on one side by private homes. These homes have a birds eye view of the activities in the vineyard. The obvious question was “what do the neighbours think?” The answer was quite surprising. “The neighbours love the vineyard,” said Umut. This attitude of

neighbours embracing the agricultural business that is on their doorstep is refreshing; as so many in the countryside find that their agricultural enterprises that are so vital to the upkeep of the land and the rural economy are barely tolerated. Not so at Riverview however, this may have something to do with a slightly cheeky story that Duncan related: “When I was marking out the vineyard prior to planting the vines some of the local residents came and asked me what I was doing? I could not resist telling them that I was marking out the car park for a new Tesco store,” joked Duncan. “When I told them the truth, however, they were really interested that the land was going to be a vineyard,” he

added. The vines on the other hand provide a beautiful ever changing foreground to the distant views across the Crouch valley for those houses on the boundary and both Umut and Katie point out how much the neighbours engage with the vineyard. “They are really invested and ask when harvest is going to happen,” Umut added.

Katie and Umut have plenty of plans for the future including possible further plantings and at some point a visitor centre located on an adjacent site, so clearly there is much to come from this exciting vineyard. The final thought about the vineyard is summed up by a comment from Umut “I have just fallen in love with everything,” he said.

The boundary of the vineyard is marked on one side by private homes.

These homes have a birds eye view of the activities in the vineyard

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A VITICULTURIST 'S DIARY

Go start a new cycle

As the carefree days of summer slip away behind us, great changes are brought to our landscapes, where indeed the vineyards look for a while to be some of the most striking in their change of colour.

This is not the end of all seasons, this is the new beginning. It is around now that the thinking starts in earnest. "Did we get it right through the latest growing season? What could be improved on for the year ahead?"

For those planning on planting in the coming late spring, thoughts must consolidate into plans with reason.

Now comes a time where we can seek out early tank samples of interesting wines, to listen to peoples thoughts around how much effort had been undertaken, and how true to their dreams, how focused the views on the wines become.

There are meetings of industry colleagues, perhaps a regional social gathering, but certainly there is the now annual show at Detling, Kent to be attended; as increasing numbers of people do.

At places like this and on occasions with so many people there is a considerable depth of stimulation to be found.

Further knowledge, as well as technical bits of kit to be discussed, and other peoples wines to be given critical assessment.

As the days get shorter, now is the time to consider, 'so far so good, next time do better'.

To find the means to start the next new plantings off to a better beginning, perhaps.

Speak with peoples about a change or two in philosophy; less chemical dependence in future management perhaps, or a conscious decision to change the soil management... to further

benefit the soils well being and thus the vines immediate rootzone environment.

Spend more time looking at how the pruning is related to either further summer works next year, or the manner in which the critical shoot, as starting growth in spring then becomes the cane to be laid down, for the following years pruning... get a good start.

Life in cycles. Cause and effect.

The further away you allow either yourself, or a key staff member or two, to wander, the greater the opportunities for thought provoking encounters.

A good tasting or so within your own region, with respected and trusted fraternity is always good. Except you have probably heard most of the views and opinions previously.

So why not seek similar occasions, but further afield? It is not always easy of course to find a wine region within which you might pick up nuggets of new ideas. However the number of people who hold a genuine interest in what is happening in the UK wine industry, increases.

This will be my third year where I come over from Germany with members of the Rebschule Freytag team for the Vineyard & Winery Show, and every year the team is of a slightly differing make up. They enjoy the 'centre table' tasting on the show day.

Perhaps you could find some way in which to invite students over to spend time within your own operations, or region, then later from this you might find the door is opened through which you or your staff might find a stimulating visit to events elsewhere.

While I am very aware that the UK holds a bias in its thoughts around sparkling wine, and this will likely continue with future plantings,

not all peoples are greatly enamoured with the Pinot family of grapes.

Even less so for still table wines where Bacchus is notably preferred over a 'blanc de noir' or a Pinot Blanc in a true form.

Whilst we have lots of experience with V. vinifera grapes...we know what can be done with them, and we know how difficult, even unreliable they can be, we also know that the number of new varieties in an experimental stage of development is rapidly escalating.

There are indeed increasing numbers of people working with the better known examples, so as to make all manner of styles of wine. Including sparkling wines.

Next to become available will be the multigenetic crossings, being more robust in their resistance.

Of real potential for growers in the margins of the climate, will be the selections with a focus on earlier ripening.

Go and work in a cellar where these trials take place; it is an experience that cannot be found back home.

Get to a regional tasting which includes commercial examples of such wines, and you will probably get to meet the wine maker.

You won't get any of this in the UK. Life is there for the taking and fortune favours the bold.

Next month is in effect the first month of next years programme for growth, (and I write this in the last week of October,) By growth I include all manner of possibilities, and beyond the greening of the young leaves. The growth of possibilities is always there for the first people that ask.

Go start a new cycle.

Sam Doncaster works for Volker and Marion Freytag, of Rebschule Freytag, Lachen-Speyerdorf, Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, Pfalz ENVELOPE samdoncaster@hotmail.com

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AGRONOMY DIARY

Ti m

r ri

Take time to choose the right cultivar and rootstock

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W ill

Soils dictate rootstocks

Soil type and pH are the two main factors that determine rootstock selection, so get soils tested before making any decisions.

Vigour is key, and on particularly sandy or less fertile soils, growers may opt for a rootstock that conveys slightly more vigour, such as SO4 or Fercal, whereas on a perfect sandy clay loam, a less vigorous rootstock would be more suitable, such as 3309-C. If pH is very high, the rootstock needs to cope with such extremes, to ensure vines can access nutrients from the soil - high pH restricts uptake of nutrients such as iron.

Fercal is the main option for high pH soils.

Getting rootstock choice wrong could result in an overly vigorous vine that is difficult to manage, at greater disease risk, or is less fruitful as vegetative growth is out of balance with reproductive growth (i.e. grapes).

Where there is significant soil variability across a site – as may be indicated by Terramap high-definition soil scanning – it is possible to plant more than one rootstock with the same variety grafted above, and therefore avoid spending unnecessary time trying to manage weaker vines over the next 40 years.

For example, SO4 + Pinot Noir may be planned

on most of the site, but if there is a chalky vein running through the land, Fercal + Pinot Noir could be planted on just the chalky area.

Doing so requires careful planning, but it is possible with technology such as Terramap and the Omnia platform to map and analyse variability.

When planning rootstock, check lead times with your supplier. For common material, such as SO4, 3309-C and Fercal, a year is generally the norm, but longer may be required for less mainstream rootstock and variety combinations.

Matching cultivar to site

When selecting cultivars, the key is to understand the site and the end goal in terms of the wine you want to produce (acidity, sweetness, flavour profile, colour, etc), then work backwards. Planting the wrong variety in the wrong place makes it hard, if not impossible, to deliver what’s required.

Site characteristics, notably growing degree days, solar radiation intensity, drainage and spring frost risk, have a huge bearing on the ability to meet quality criteria, so look at such data in detail when evaluating cultivar options.

The temptation may be to go with Champagne classics, but temperatures could mean the focus should be on an earlier-maturing variety like Solaris, Ortega, Madeleine Angevine, or the like.

If the aim is to produce a still Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc, for example, acidity needs to drop to a lower level and sugars need to be at a higher level than for a sparkling wine.

This can only happen with sufficient sunlight intensity on the grapes to break down malic

Robi n s iam on

With more growers looking to plant vines for the first time, Hutchinsons agronomists William Robinson and Tim Ferris offer some advice about rootstock and cultivar selection.

Good site selection is the single most important consideration for any successful vineyard, and the characteristics of that site, particularly soil type, solar intensity, and growing degree days, greatly influence rootstock and cultivar choice.

All too often, the decision has been made to plant vines on a piece of land, rather than thinking whether they should be planted there.

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acid, which will also require careful canopy management to achieve.

Equally, for some cultivars, GDD carries slightly more importance than solar intensity.

Varieties like Bacchus and in some respect, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, generally need a little less solar intensity, but do need the temperatures to ripen.

Ideally, look at historic data over multiple years to build an accurate picture of the conditions at any proposed site, considering both average data and seasonal anomalies.

Some growers may prefer to “hedge their bets” by planting both sparkling and still varieties.

In all cases, the aim should be to establish more than one clone in different areas to balance the tendency of some vines to go a little bi-annual, cropping heavily one year, then light the next.

For something like Pinot Noir, many different clones are available, ranging from Burgundian to Champagne clones, so take time to find what’s right for your site. That may be something that flowers slightly later, matures earlier, or has slightly longer, more open bunches.

Finally, for growers going down the organic or biodynamic route, there are additional considerations, particularly around disease risk.

Look for varieties with strong disease resistance, but also consider the additional time and labour demands for canopy management and bunch thinning – the two main tools for managing disease.

Site characteristics are important here too, as damp, sheltered sites, may be at greater risk of fungal diseases, such as mildew.

DESKTOP www.hlhltd.co.uk ENVELOPE information@hlhltd.co.uk phone-alt 01945 461177 D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

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VINEWORKS

Refresh and refocus It’s just one year since the UK’s leading vineyard services company relaunched itself at the 2022 Vineyard & Winery Show, but in those 12 months VineWorks has surpassed far more than many companies achieve over a much longer timescale.

James Dodson, Founder and CEO

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A new logo was just the most visible part of an overall refresh and refocus for VineWorks, established in 2006 by James Dodson while he was still studying for his BSc (Hons) in Viticulture and Oenology at Plumpton College.

A year on, VineWorks has increased its management team by 40%, created a new range of bespoke viticulture packages, enjoyed one of its most prolific planting seasons ever, brokered homes for £1.4m worth of fruit and established a commercefocused website that offers clients a convenient way to buy a vast range of vineyard products.

“The branding was just the start,” said James. “Yes, we wanted a fresh new look that would remind people that we aren’t just one of the longest-standing vineyard services companies in the UK but are also very much looking to the future, but our relaunch went well beyond the logo.

“It kick-started a tremendous year for VineWorks and one which really has highlighted the skills our team can offer and the way in which we can support growers of all kinds, from those who are just starting out and need some advice through to major players in the industry.”

One of those major players has now asked VineWorks to take a leading role in an exciting new development that highlights the growing importance of viticulture in the UK. Jackson Family Wines, which owns more than 40 top name wine brands worldwide, has announced plans to establish a vineyard in Essex's renowned Crouch Valley and increase its vineyard holdings in southern England.

Winemaker Charlie Holland, formerly with Gusbourne, is heading up the project and James has been chosen as the lead viticulturist in a move that reflects the depth of knowledge he has amassed in every aspect of growing quality grapes.

“This is a really significant step for the UK wine industry,” James commented. “Jackson Family Wines is looking to make not just sparkling wine but a high quality still wine

Will Mower, Head of Vineyard Establishment from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes grown here.”

Under James’ leadership, VineWorks, based in Plumpton Green, East Sussex, has grown from a small company specialising in installing trellising systems into the UK’s leading vineyard services company, having established more than 300 vineyards and planted more than 4.5 million vines.

While still at the helm, James has restructured and strengthened the team over the past 12 months, recruiting Chris Buckley as business director, along with two business support officers, a viticulturist and a vineyard establishment consultant. There are plans to recruit more staff in the coming months.

The new website, which launched in June, was designed to enhance VineWorks’ online retail arm. It was “a colossal job” but has given customers online access to the vast range of anchors, posts, trellising materials, wire, guards, secateurs and other equipment that VineWorks stocks.

Last year’s refocus involved launching a new range of management packages tailored to the individual needs of clients. These include Management Pro, under which VineWorks essentially looks after the total operation, Viti Scout, which sees a member of the team visiting the vineyard several times in a season, feeding back on vine and crop health and providing a list of suggested actions, and Viti Coaching, which involves fewer visits

Photos: Daria Szotek

and is popular with clients who are more experienced but welcome the occasional timely piece of guidance.

The packages have proved so popular that VineWorks will be looking to recruit a new head of vineyard services to oversee this team in the new year.

VineWorks has enjoyed one of its biggest planting seasons ever, with two planting machines kept busy throughout, while this year’s bumper crop has seen its brokering arm working hard to find homes for a record 545 tonnes of fruit worth £1.4m.

“Tank space is set to be a problem if harvests continue to grow,” James

Cherry Constable, Head of Retail commented. “There is no problem finding a home for UK grapes, but it can be difficult to find somewhere to put them.”

To round off an impressively busy year for the business, VineWorks won the silver medal in the Contractor of the Year category at the British Farming Awards. It now has its fingers crossed for the Sussex Business Awards in Brighton on 30 November, having been shortlisted in the Medium Business of the Year category.

“It’s been a great year all round, and to be recognised at both regional and national events has been the icing on the cake,” commented James.

Chris Buckley, Business Director and Head of Vineyard Services

DESKTOP www.vine-works.com ENVELOPE sales@vine-works.com phone-alt 01273 891777

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what can be done in the vineyard to manage the issue of excess.

Whether you are a grower or a producer, quality must be your main objective. It will always be a difficult decision for a grower to drop fruit early in a vintage, as their goal is to capitalise on the crop and maximise income. This year, those who got away with a high yield and quality that was just ‘good enough’ risk falling on the wrong side of a fine line. Dropping fruit must be part of every vineyard’s management programme. If you are consistently achieving high quality at 7 to 8 t/ha (tonnes per hectare), then it is quite possible in a high yielding year to push it up to 10 tonnes and maintain an exceptional vintage. In this harvest, many vineyards sitting heavy were coming in well over the 14 t/ha mark, with some as high as 20 t/ha. In the excitement of high production, it is important to remember that PDO grapes (protected designation of origin) are restricted to 14 t/ha.

Managing yield allows the grower to achieve higher quality in a number of different conditions and challenges. Perhaps the lesson to take away from this vintage is that controlling yield in the vineyard will influence quality.

Here at VineWorks we work to achieve the best outcome for both customer and industry one vine at a time.

DESKTOP www.vine-works.com ENVELOPE sales@vine-works.com phone-alt 01273 891777

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Photo: Daria Szotek

an

der

into the upper 18s and 20s), while heavy crops struggled to reach acceptable levels. This perpetuated the capacity conundrum, where those who had to wait for riper levels watched anxiously as tanks filled up rapidly. A grower under contract for an average yield, struggled to find a home for any excess, and, if they did, sold it at a reduced price, well below the 2022 prices of £2700 per tonne. Growers who opted to stay out of contract and chance the open market and its higher prices, got caught out and had to sell below last year’s prices, and in some cases couldn’t find a home for their fruit at all.

Remarkably, considering the wet summer we had, there was less fungal disease than expected. Powdery and downy mildew started to appear in late July, but in most cases was arrested with a good spray programme.

Ripening became a challenge for those who suffered from the effects of powdery mildew with more than 40% leaf damage, especially with a heavier than usual crop. Surprisingly, there was little botrytis compared to other wet years, however this was one of the worst I've seen for spotted wing drosophila (SWD).

Some red fruit was completely destroyed, yet in others where berries were impacted, volatile acidity (VA) was slow to develop, meaning there was time to get fruit off the vine with little impact on the juice after pressing.

Interestingly, we noticed that vineyards with the Pinot clone 777 were among the first to be affected by SWD, most likely due to its nature to ripen early.

It is always tempting to retrospectively question actions taken in the heat of a situation. However, it is important to consider

odson CEO

un Fo

While it is too early to appreciate the full size and quality of the 2023 harvest, it is safe to say that it was a bumper crop.

Fruit brokering has been a service VineWorks has offered to its clients for seven years now.

This year we organised 545 tonnes of fruit for clients at a value of £1.4 million, a growth of over 300% against previous years.

Like 2018, the size of the vintage caught wineries and contract winemaking facilities out, with all tanks full to the brim and no capacity anywhere in the UK to process the excess, forcing some growers to leave fruit on the vine. Early estimates indicate a 30% to 40% higher yield than average across the UK. The 2018 harvest exposed our vulnerability to handle excess fruit, but is it fair to say that we have simply allowed ourselves to repeat that failure? A recent article by Barnaby Eales in Harpers.co.uk (27/10/2023), highlights the lack of available funding for winery development and construction as contributing to this capacity conundrum.

Unlike 2018, where an abundance of fruit came in at a high quality, 2023 saw a huge crop with mixed quality reported.

This vintage started with a successful bud initiation due to exceptional 2022 growing conditions. The number of inflorescences in June indicated a larger crop of about 10% on average. An extremely wet July and August saw bunches swell to some of the highest bunch weights ever reported, causing dilution in the juice chemistry, with a higher than normal pH of 3.2 and acids consistently low at 8 Ta, and lower. Sugar levels were mixed.

Vineyards that maintained an average yield successfully achieved higher Brix figures (well

D es

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Harvest 2023 – quality vs quantity

Ja m

THE VINE POST

FIELD SENSORS

Vineyard sensors make sense Internet-connected devices and wireless communication are enabling vineyard managers to instantly access data and information to better manage their crops and make accurate day-to-day decisions.

Over the past 39 years Pessl Instruments, known for its METOS brand of in-field sensors, has been developing technology to support growers across the globe to use field-specific climatic data and AI-powered analysis to make better predictions of the risk of frost, diseases, insects, and crop irrigation needs.

Vineyard talked to Pessl Instruments’ CEO and founder, Gottfried Pessl, to understand how internet-connected technology is making a critical difference to vineyard management and wine production in the UK and around the world.

"From the mid-1990s we saw the opportunity to predict diseases, not just react to them. We started with apples, and prediction of apple scab using weather stations to measure climatic conditions and run simulations using the collected data. We then expanded into other crops, including vines.

Now growers around the world can make more accurate decisions based on predictions of disease, insect, and frost risk, and crop irrigation needs,” said Gottfried.

“The rapid growth of cellular networks even in rural areas meant that this wireless data collection and processing became accessible to nearly everyone,” he said.

The development of mobile phone technology allowed the company to develop an app in 2010 to display the data, and provide an assessment of risk, giving growers and managers the climatic data they needed, without having to physically visit the vineyard or be present in the office.

“This near-instant access to data and risk modelling reduces mistakes and supports more accurate decision-making, leading to better planning and more informed use of plant protection and water inputs, and more targeted frost protection measures,” he explained.

“With accurate forecasts and actual climatic data, growers are able to target frost measures to where they are most needed, apply insecticides only where thresholds have been met, or fungicides only when climatic conditions indicate an upcoming disease risk period, for example.”

New advances in imaging analysis mean that insect pests can also be monitored remotely, without having to physically inspect in-field traps.

Pessl Instruments’ software has been trained to identify particular species of insect pests caught in traps, such as spotted wing drosophila and moth species, and alert managers when pre-determined thresholds have been met. Sprays can then be timed more accurately and pin-pointed to fields according to actual threat.

Not only can vineyard managers use this technology on a day-to-day basis, but data collected over time gives information on trends, and provides a longer-term outlook for future planning decisions.

He said, “You can use a range of sensors across a vineyard, taking into account different topography, varieties and microclimates, to give you more accurate information about frost risks and disease pressure. This allows you to understand better the risks across those crops in the short, medium, and long-term, and adjust any crop protection measures accordingly.

“This can also be useful when considering new plantings and can inform variety choice, growing method, and crop protection needs.”

Pessl Instruments has gone on to secure integrations for its METOS brand sensors and stations through APIs with the most used farm software management systems worldwide, and many other apps and applications, including RIMpro.

Sensors aid frost protection The Windsor Great Park Vineyard, run by Laithwaites, has 17,000 vines growing across the three-hectare site, with two METOS temperature and humidity sensors and a weather station installed since 2013.

Anne Linder, who founded the vineyard in 2010 and is still involved today, she explained how they use the sensors.

She said: “This is an un-manned site, and our biggest concern is spring frost. Receiving the

alerts remotely from the sensors means we have enough time for one of our team to get to site and light our frost candles.

“The site is on a slope facing north to south, with a 30m drop from top to bottom, and after a few years we moved the weather station down into the slight dip at the bottom as we learned that this was the highest risk area for frost.

“We can now see a variation of three degrees across the three weather stations, which can

make a big difference to the number of candles we have to light. The sensors have been invaluable and definitely helped us to reduce costs by localising our frost candles to where they are really needed.”

DESKTOP www.metos.ukphone-alt David Whattoff, METOS UK managing director 07752 426006 ENVELOPE david.whattoff @metos.uk D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

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La u

PINOT NOIR

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Pinot Noir: A grape in profile

adla nd

The name Pinot is a reference to the shape of the grape’s bunches, which resemble a pine cone, or pin in French.

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Photo: Ridgeview Wine Estate

TUNNEL&SHELTERHARVESTI PLANTING&GROWING The origins of Pinot Noir TUNNEL&SHELTERPRUNING&FRUITTO HARVESTING TUNNEL&SHELTER PLANTING&GROWING PRUNING&FRUITTOOLS EXPERT EQUIPMENT TUNNEL&SHELTER HARVESTING TUNNEL&SHEL TUNNEL&SHELTERHARVESTING FOR TUNNEL&SHELTER HARVESTIN PLANTING&GROWING VINEYARDS TUNNEL&SHELTER PRUNING&FRUITTO HARVESTING TUNNEL&SHELTER HARV PLANTING&GROWING PRUNING&FRUITTOOLS TUNNEL&SHELTER HARVESTING TUNNEL&SHELT TUNNEL&SHELTER The Pinot family of grapes is one of the most ancient, being cultivated for almost 2000 years, with evidence of its existence in Burgundy predating Roman colonisation.

Due to this long history, a large number of clones have emerged, of which Pinot Noir is the most famous and widespread. Unlike its similarly famous and omnipresent peers, the relatively easy-going Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir is a mercurial vine – notoriously variable in its growth and difficult to tame in the winery too.

The tight clusters it produces are susceptible to a number of common hazards, making attention to canopy management of paramount importance when growing this fickle grape. Its thin skin, which can break easily and make the fruit open to attack from disease has earned it the dubious moniker of the ‘heartbreak grape’.

Despite the difficulties, Pinot Noir is one of the most commonly planted varieties in the UK. It is mainly used, predictably, for sparkling wine, although the volume being used for still wine is slowly increasing. Wine GB’s 2022-23 industry report revealed that the grape makes up 29% of total UK plantings, a close second behind Chardonnay at 31%. Pinot Noir précoce weighs in as the 8th most popular variety, but with that planting only totalling 66 ha, that equates to less than 2% of the total. The Champagne varieties claim 69% of the total UK acreage, so it is not a huge surprise that the quantities drop off sharply after the top three.

PRUNING& TUNNEL&S

PRUNING&FR TUNNEL&SHE

PLANTING

Character

Pinot Noir (also known as Spätburgunder) ◆ Pinot Noir buds early, which can make it susceptible to damage from frost early in the growing season ◆ The grapes are thin-skinned, meaning they can be prone to rot or mildew as well as viruses like fanleaf and leafroll ◆ Works well on calcareous soils and in relatively cool climates where it doesn’t rush to maturity preserving valuable aroma and acidity ◆ Difficult to vinify, needing monitoring and fine-tuning according to each vintage ◆ Produces wines with flavours that range from red berries like strawberries and raspberries to earthy notes of mushrooms and truffles. The wine has a captivating perfume, and its taste profile can evolve dramatically with ageing. ◆ The cool climate and range of diverse terroir in England and Wales is producing wines that often showcase a vibrant acidity and a remarkable balance of fruit and minerality.

Pinot Noir Précoce (also known as Frühburgunder) ◆ A mutation of Pinot Noir, Pinot Noir Précoce is a distinct and earlier ripening variety. It is well suited to the cool UK climate because of the potential for early harvesting. ◆ Its adaptability and reliable yields have seen it become increasingly popular with English and Welsh winemakers. ◆ Wines made with Pinot Noir Précoce are marked by bright red fruit flavours like cherries and redcurrants. ◆ In comparison with traditional Pinot Noir, the wines are often lighter and more approachable. <<

Despite the difficulties, Pinot Noir is one of the most commonly planted varieties in the UK

Agricare Ltd Canterbury Kent 01304 842280 sales@agricareuk.com www.agricareuk.com D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

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Photo: Ridgeview Wine Estate

Pinot Noir clones

The infamous late 19th century phylloxera outbreak led to mass replanting – and it was also a catalyst for important European vine breeding and propagation programmes. Clonal selection is a slow and therefore expensive process for propagating desired traits in a vine.

There are, for example, 48 Pinot Noir clones officially recognised in France. The certified clones are guaranteed to be virus-free and each carries an identifying number. One of the most popular in France is a first-generation Burgundy clone from the original 1971 release, number 115, which originated on the Cote d'Or. It is an early ripening vine, with only average susceptibility to grey mould despite that.

However, these are not the only options available to growers. Conservation collections planted in Alsace, Burgundy and Champagne between 1971 and 1995 include almost 800 clones in total. This large number allows vineyard managers to make their selection

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based on the most desirable characteristics for their situation, such as productivity, tannin structure or likelihood to ripen.

In Germany, clonal selection processes initially prioritised clones with looser bunches to avoid botrytis. Since the 1980s, aromatic intensity has come to the fore in selection alongside those traits relating to hardiness and productivity.

Pinot Noir and climate change

Thanks to its prestige, quality and proliferation, researchers are paying a lot of attention to how climate change may affect Pinot Noir across the globe. While it is difficult to frame climate change in a positive light on a global scale, it is likely to impact our perception of Pinot Noir and bring benefits, at least in the relatively short term, for English and Welsh producers.

One recent study looked at the influence that temperature had on the concentration

of metabolites in the grapes. The research was carried out at Lincoln University on Pinot Noir vines grown at two different temperatures in controlled environment chambers by a team led by the Bragato Research Institute over two seasons.

They found that an increase in temperature led to a higher accumulation of most amino acids. This can have a positive impact on wine quality, producing wine with good complexity in terms of texture and mouthfeel. They are also the precursors for secondary compounds in grapes like thiols, esters and flavonols that play an important role in the flavour and aroma profile of the finished wine. This could lead to a gradual change in Pinot Noir’s characteristics, although more research is needed to map this shift in practice. Additionally, the vines in the study were irrigated and so the results do not account for water stress which may be as significant in its impact as an increase in << temperature.

READ MORE: Moukarzel, R., Parker, A. K., Schelezki, O. J., Gregan, S. M., & Jordan, B. (2023).

Bunch microclimate influence amino acids and phenolic profiles of Pinot Noir grape berries. Frontiers in plant science, 14, 1162062. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpls.2023.1162062

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PINOT NOIR

Picking suitable rootstocks I spoke to Jon Fletcher at The Vine House UK to find out more about picking the right rootstock for your vineyard.

“Limestone based subsoils are ideal for vines in general, and the preferred soil type would be fertile and loose. Shallow dry soils can be difficult for Pinots and they do not do well with clay.

"Using a rootstock to match your soil type is very important. However, you should also be mindful of the characteristics of the vine graft you are going to grow on that rootstock.

"Suitable rootstocks for Pinot Noirs would be SO4, Binova in normal soils.

If you have strong growing soil then choose a medium to weak rootstock such as 3309C or 5C. These will help the vine focus less on growth and more on crop.

"For close planting, less than 1.25 meters, also use a less vigorous rootstock such as 3309, 161-49 or 420A or Fercal in lime soil types.

"5BB Kober is best avoided as it's very vigorous and not suitable for Pinot Noir.”

Making champion still wines from Pinot Noir James Lambert is the Managing Director and winemaker at Lyme Bay Winery, Devon, producer of Lyme Bay Pinot Noir 2021, winner of silver medals at this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards and the International Wine Challenge.

“Since 2015 we’ve been looking to demonstrate what the potential for English still wines is and particularly Pinot Noir. We do that through a relentless search of pockets of land owned by growers who share the same passion as we do, looking for the highest degrees of potential ripeness and wines that can really showcase the terroir.

“The sales of English red wines are still only minuscule compared to the rest of the world but the climate is changing quickly, and the rate of change is impacting growing conditions in the UK. This is making them ideal for planting still varietals particularly Pinot Noir which is well suited to the cooler, longer growing season the UK provides.

“There is so much potential not just for Pinot Noir but other red varieties as well. With the right clones and the right grapes, in the right places, the UK is uniquely positioned to produce world class Pinot Noir – we just need a little patience!”

Photo: Matt Austin

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PINOT NOIR Looking closer to home, researchers used climate change models for the UK to simulate a projected repetition of the UK’s highest yielding season in 2018 cross referenced against the mean growing season temperatures in Pinot Noir producing areas of Champagne, Burgundy and Baden.

Their results suggested that “Large areas of the UK are projected to have > 50% of years within the bioclimatic ranges experienced during the 2018 growing season, indicating potential higher yields in the future.” Because of this, the researchers believe that there will be not only a greater potential for sparkling wines made from Pinot Noir, but also a “shifting suitability to still red wine production.”

They urge producers in the UK to sit up and take notice of these projects.

“The 2021–2040 time horizon is of particular interest to the expanding UK viticulture sector because decisions about what and where to plant now benefit from climate change projections to help avoid future potential lock-in.”

The science suggests that putting all your eggs in the sparkling wine basket in terms of both planting and marketing may not be the best strategy as the potential for changes in the UK’s suitability for growing Pinot Noir for still wines may be rapid.

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Pinot Noir and SWD

There has been a lot of discussion about the rise of Spotted Wing Drosophilia (SWD) in the UK with the Royal Horticultural Society acknowledging that it is likely to become an increasing issue for cultivating vines in the future. Anecdotally, there appears to be some evidence that SWD prefers black grapes and

that Pinot Noir may be especially favoured.

Talking to vineyard managers around the country suggests that this cannot currently be confirmed as the picture is very mixed.

What is clear is that more UK vineyards are experiencing SWD as the years progress and the issue is going to require significant industry attention.

Joel Jorgensen, Managing Director and Viticulturist at Vinescapes Ltd has been managing various vineyards across the UK for many years and has experienced the threat of SWD increasing since around 2016.

“We initially noticed it in Kent, near many top and soft fruit growers, particularly cherries and strawberries,” said Joel. “Since then we've seen the populations increasing rapidly and migrating gradually westwards across Sussex and more recently as far as Somerset, Devon and Cornwall.

“SWD certainly prefers red varieties, particularly thinner skinned Pinot Noir and Meunier and the earlier ripening Pinot Précoce. However, I have found larvae in Chardonnay and Bacchus too, but not beyond economic thresholds to justify treatment. The larvae feed on the juice and flesh as berries ripen and their presence often invites Sour rot, which can taint a batch of wine if not treated or removed at picking.

“Monitoring early via baited traps and regularly checking hedgerow fruits like blackberries has become routine for our viticulturists. We're seeing some success in reducing populations with dead-end host plants and are incorporating these into more hedgerows at vineyards during the establishment phase. Reducing blackberry populations has significantly helped too.”

Looking around the UK, the picture is currently a mixed one. Polgoon Vineyard in Penzance and Bluebell Vineyard Estates in Sussex both report SWD damage to their Pinot Noir (and Rondo for Polgoon), with no sign on white varieties. Similarly, Brabourne Vineyard in Kent has seen SWD for the first time in 8 years on Pinot Noir, but not on the Chardonnay immediately next to it. Both varieties had the same levels of sugar and acidity, which suggests that colour was the make-or-break factor.

Thorrington Mill Vineyard has also had their first SWD issue in North Essex/South Suffolk, although they report a lower level visible on the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc as well as the black grapes. They have a well-managed vineyard floor with a cultivated weed-free under row, so do not credit accounts that SWD may be coming in through weed cover. “This has probably been a perfect ‘bloom’ season for SWD,” a vineyard representative said. “I fear it is something we will need to be more on top of.”

Camel Valley in Cornwall has also seen SWD across their vines.

“We have seen it in Seyval as well as Pinot,” said Sam Lindo. “The first creature ever to want this variety. It looks like any potential negative effects have dissipated by the end of ferment and all is good right now. I think this year the SWD has come late enough not to be a problem.”

Finally, Astley Vineyard in Worcestershire appears to be the outlier, seeing evidence of SWD damage on their Bacchus but not the Pinot Noir. This certainly seems to be an area which will warrant careful scrutiny and further research in the future.

Pinot Noir at Ridgeview Wine Estate

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READ MORE: Nesbitt, A., Dorling, S., Jones, R., Smith, D. K., Krumins, M., Gannon, K. E., … Conway, D. (2022).

Climate change projections for UK viticulture to 2040: a focus on improving suitability for Pinot Noir. OENO One, 56(3), 69–87. https://doi.org/10.20870/oeno-one.2022.56.3.5398

Making champion sparkling wines from Pinot Noir Simon Roberts, Head Winemaker at Ridgeview Wine Estate, Sussex, producer of Rosé de Noirs Brut 2018, the only UK platinum award winner at this year’s Decanter World Wine Awards.

“We have been working with the viticulture legend Marco Simminit for a few years now, he has been helping us redevelop these vines with a more synergized and regenerative form of pruning, and we really saw the “fruits of our labour “ (excuse the pun.) We had the best looking crop from our Pinot Noir and Meunier I have seen for a long time. The juice was equally impressive.

“Tasting it straight from the press we knew this would be the basis of either the Blanc de Noirs or the Rosé de Noirs. Quite delicate, but full of promise and complexity.

For the Ridgeview Rosé de Noirs we only

use the best fruit and if we don’t feel the fruit is good enough we will not make the wine. We look for rich fruits of the forest, cherries and spice, maybe some liquorice.

“The Rose de Noirs is one of our wines where the winemaker really has an impact.

We use our interpretation of the Siangee method. We load the press at the end of the late shift and the fruit will stay in the press until the next day. The winemakers check the colour of the juice until we are happy with the extraction. We then press the fruit as a sparkling programme so as not to press out any bitterness or unwanted phenolics.

“Making the Rose de Noirs takes time, care and understanding of the fruit. This wine is always the most fun to make. One of my favourites. An example of the dedication to perfection that we hope to achieve in our winemaking for Ridgeview.”

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EDUCATION

Women in wine At Plumpton College our first year Business students have been dipping a toe into consumer spending patterns.

Could it really be true that men are more likely to spend money at independent wine merchants than women? Are men really more interested in tasting the wines before they buy, and are women more motivated by the shop staff providing recommendations?

The data we analyse is fascinating (those points are made by Wine Intelligence) and the students love getting stuck in, arguing the point, and considering a multitude of factors – including gender – that affect our relationship with wine.

Conversations around wine and gender have been on everyone’s lips recently, with Queena Wong’s recent report showing more than three quarters of women in wine facing industry sexism. The report shows the issues still remaining in our industry - for the rest of the report’s findings scan the QR code to watch the webinar.

We love seeing the seeds planted for first-year students as they start to engage with these conversations, within our lessons and outside of them too. Often, they feed through to the brilliant work they produce for their final year projects. Plumpton’s Charlotte Bradbury chose “Wine and Gender”, and attended Wong’s Curious Vines panel for ‘Women in Leadership Roles’. We asked her to tell us more…

“When I worked in the hospitality side of wine I would often be sent to the back to do the cleaning and polishing of glasses, or I would serve the wine but never help the customer choose what wine they wanted. It was always my male co-workers who did that job. I noticed that wine industry functions would be very male-dominated and a lot of the speakers would be too, and so I began to look further into it.

“In my research I found that typically, women take time to consider their options whereas men will say yes in the moment. This can allow men to advance in their career faster even if they aren’t as qualified or experienced.

“There is such a large network of women supporting each other in the wine industry. Attending the Curious Vines panel was incredibly insightful. Their aim is to inspire women wine professionals to go for what they want, have the confidence to say yes in the moment, but also to talk and work with people to get them there. Most of these women said they had colleagues and managers of all genders who supported them, spoke to them about roles they hadn’t got, and offered advice for the next one that opens.

“When it comes to hiring, people forget different genders might approach things differently. Despite these challenges, when women are supported and encouraged to go for these roles, they can advance their careers as fast as men do.

“I have had countless people offer their support and insight. When I have contacted women there is an instant reaction: wanting to talk, sharing the challenges they have faced, helping me create contacts with other women who have stories and advice. A lot of the men are unaware how much the gender divide affects women sometimes, and they want to hear what I find out to help their co-workers. I’ve found that the majority of men care about gender inequality and are ready to learn and help in any way they can.

“I think it’s definitely sparking an interest with people who might be unaware of what gender discrimination looks like, and they want to ask questions and find out how to help. I hope it sparks more than just an interesting discussion.”

We are very much looking forward to reading Charlotte’s project, and all the other brilliant final year students.

Wine & Gender If you’d like to submit a response to her questionnaire about Wine & Gender, scan the QR code.

Do you want to find out more and learn from our expert lecturers at Plumpton to brush up your skills, or you know someone who is interested in a career change in the wine production or business industry? Please do get in touch, we have lots of options and happy to help – Call 01273 890454.

Charlotte Bradbury

Queena Wong’s report

The report shows the issues still remaining in our industry – for the rest of the report’s findings scan the QR code to watch the webinar.

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DESKTOP www.plumpton.ac.uk Envelope wine@plumpton.ac.uk INSTAGRAM @plumptonwine D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

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EXPRESS YOUR TERROIR

Is there any “magic ingredient”?

LOOKING FOR A UK BASED INDEPENDENT CONSULTANT WINEMAKER? I’ve been in the UK for 10 years offering my experience and I’d be happy to discuss your project.

DESKTOP www.enologie.wine phone-alt +39 3349 769 839 ENVELOPE salvatore@enologie.wine One of the advantages of being an independent winemaker, is that I can try and suggest products with total freedom, just focusing on what works for that specific case.

Of course I can’t try everything all the time, but I do leave room for some new trials every year for the sake of improvement.

I encourage everyone to test things instead of just using them by default as a habit. You and your wine are the best judges of it.

wants to use more products than needed to achieve the best quality, in the same way no-one wants to use less than needed maximising potential quality.

Is there a magic ingredient?

Let’s start by saying that, in my experience, with good grapes and depending on the wine type or style, we often don’t need more than 2-6 products to have a quality stable wine.

On the contrary, when the grapes are not so good or if we used the wrong technique for that specific grape, then we’ll need to use more products to adjust our shot.

A winemaker is a technician who should know the mechanism of how each product works and what it does. This also means, that a winemaker should be able to decide when something is not needed or if it will lower quality instead of increasing it.

If something has been used in the past, it doesn’t mean it needs to be used every year and vice-versa.

I remember when I was 17 years old and wanted to make my first wine before studying winemaking in Marsala, my home town in Sicily. I went to a conference from one of the major brands, I took many notes and in a morning I literally came out with a recipe; “easy” I said! Then I soon realised that I wasn’t able to make my own decisions because I didn’t know the “why” behind what I was doing, (except the basic reasons that I was told in that conference). Things obviously became worse in changing circumstances and with no experience. After a couple of attempts, I went to the winemaking school where some of the best wine and grape producers were teaching at that time.

One of my favourite lessons was when we were given a wine with many faults and we had to do our best to improve it, as well as when we had to express the maximum potential of a grape while masking or removing the weak aspects.

I know initially it will sound like a contradiction but… the short answer to this question is “no”, there are not magic ingredients, while the long answer is “yes” and I will explain it below.

First of all, I apologise for using the word “ingredient”, I hate it; winemaking is not a recipe and we all know that the products we use, can be classified as adjuvants when they don’t become part of the juice/wine (e.g.

PVPP, bentonite etc) or additives when they do, (e.g. sugar, tannins etc).

There are products which are more impactful than others of course. A barrel for example, can have a lot more impact than a yeast, a finning agent or a polysaccharide. However, if we think of an elegant complex and balanced wine, none of the products makes any magic on its own; making good wines would be too easy, right?

A premium wine is complex and full of harmonious details. Every product counts if used wisely and only when necessary.

The best wines are blends: a blend is made of components and components might not be perfect, especially in the UK climate. At the same time, the best wines are usually the ones that are “born good in the vineyard” and they require less intervention because of that. No winemaker

Key questions 44

◆ Which products do you use and why? ◆ Do you always need them? ◆ Have you tested them and how do they influence the wine?

Do you have the technical knowledge to decide which products to use, how and when?

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WINEMAKING

First ever traditional method sparkling wine Whinyard Rocks Vineyard in Powys, Wales has announced the release of its first ever traditional method sparkling wine.

Bubbly Bubbly 2021

This is the first ever traditional method sparkling wine for Whinyard Rocks Vineyard. It's made with 100% Phoenix grapes picked in mid-late October 2021.

Natural fermentation took place in steel and the wine was aged in the tank on the lees. Bottled by gravity with ‘Liqueur de Tirage’ followed by secondary fermentation in the bottle. Bottles were riddled and disgorged by hand with zero dosage. An

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electric zing of freshly cut elderflower meets a ripple of tropical fruit swathed in bubbles.

Fresh, crisp and exhilarating, it's inspired by the dazzling cascade of our local waterfall Water-Break-Its-Neck.

Pet Nat 2022

The 2022 Pet Nat is 60% solaris 40% ortega grapes and is pale amber in colour thanks to three leisurely days of skin contact.

The ortega was blended with the solaris

and co-fermented in steel. It was bottled by gravity by hand just before the end of the primary fermentation and disgorged by hand on a cold spring day. It kicks off with pear drops and rolls into ripe apricots and peaches on the palate. Mouthfeel-wise there's a delightful body to it and it comes in at 11%.

It's a higher percentage than the 2021 Pet Nat thanks to the continued sunshine and hot weather of last summer.

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WINE & CIDER MAKING EQUIPMENT

SRAML WINE MAKING EQUIPMENT Winemaking is both and art and a science. Vitikit have partnered with SRAML who are at the forefront of wine making equipment, using cutting edge technology is fundamental in producing a superior and consistent product. SRAML wine making products available through Vitikit include: -Reception and sorting -Destemmers and Crushers -Pumps and pumping units -Presses -Bottling

VPEECO PNEUMATIC PRESSES SRAML VPe Eco Pneumatic Presses range offers the best performance-cost ratio, whilst still bringing all the benefits to your production demands. For small to mid-sized wineries as you began to expand, investment in the right wing making equipment is critical.

Introducing Smart Analysis, Vitikit have teamed up with DNAPhone, an innovative company with a clear vision to revolutionise the world of rapid analysis and diagnostic tests. Get in touch for more details.

DESTEMMERS Destemmers and crushers function is to remove the grape berries from the stems and to release the juice and pulp. Our partners SRAML are world leaders in innovative destemming technology

WiFi & Bluetooth Internal battery and micro USB Thermostat up to 40 C Spectrum 280-760nm Low maintenance

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Easy to use

Committed to sustainability

For over one hundred years, Terral has been producing products and equipment for winegrowers to use on their vineyards. The company is based in the heart of the Languedoc wine region in France, but their equipment is used in vineyards all around the country and the company also have their sights set on vineyards in the UK. Whether you are in the market for a picker, vine-trunk cleaning motor, a pre-pruning or pruning machine, a trimmer, or another piece of vineyard equipment, Terral is just the ticket. The team work in-house, from R&D to design and production, which combined with excellent customer service makes them a firm favourite supplier for French vineyards, and they hope to replicate these relationships with UK winegrowers. Terral places a great emphasis on designing machines that are easy to use and equipped with the latest technology.

Terral’s products are made in France with materials chosen for their durability and longevity. The company’s robust equipment is designed to be repairable for any resulting wear-and-tear over time, to ensure a sustainable approach to equipment manufacturing.

Vicard was founded in 1925, and has remained an independent family business ever since, across six generations. If this is not testament enough to the quality, expertise, and innovative spirit behind their oak barrels, then there is always the remarkable fact that the company produces an average of 35,000 barrels per year. It is noteworthy that 70% of Vicard’s barrels, tanks and casks are exported around the world from Cognac, France, where they are produced.

Vicard’s passion for their craft has led to a real connection with winemakers around the world. The company are keenly aware that the future of their tradition is ensured through their innovative spirit. In 1925, founder Paul Vicard was producing around ten barrels a day in his small workshop, today that number is more like one hundred barrels per day under Jean-Charles Vicard who is the driving force of technical innovations!

The company is committed to sustainability, with the environmental impact of every decision being considered, including the origin of the wood, controlling the procurement, hygiene and traceability of raw materials and repurposing all ‘waste’ materials.

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What’s your vineyard missing?

Discover products loved by French winemakers at the Vineyard & Winery Show

Cavi’s biodegradable vine clips & eco-posts

Terral’s range of vinegrowing equipment

Flexikeg’s reusable, recyclable eco-friendly wine kegs

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World’s first bio-sourced and biodegradable clips Based in the Champagne region, Cavi Group specialise in designing and producing vine training tools that have contributed to some great vintages.

The company is committed to making vineyards more sustainable places. We have Cavi Group to thank for the world’s first bio-sourced and biodegradable foliage vine clips, created in 2015: the Amidograf. Made of wheat and corn starch, this staple composts in-situ and is eaten by fungi and microorganisms leaving no negative environmental impact.

Last year Cavi group released Tutofi, stakes made from recycled & repurposed plastic and aluminium waste, which in turn are fully recyclable themselves. Tutofi stakes boast many advantages: they are resistant against UV, humidity, frost, and soil chemistry; they do not rot or rust; they are resistant to tillage tools; and can be attached to the binding wire. What is more, each stake is reusable and at the end of its life can be recycled by the same process that produced it.

Helping you grow by protecting what matters If your business deals with wines and spirits, it’s crucial to prioritise expert insurance for your products.

With a bumper crop expected to be the largest ever reported by UK vineyards, and a sector that will be harvesting in excess of 7,600 hectares by 2032, the requirement for a bespoke, robust business protection programme has never been higher and should include: Event Cover, Damage to Vessels and more. Please speak to us for further information.

Exposure

The vast majority of British vineyards and associated trades are either underinsured or uninsured for their risks, having insurance policies not fit for purpose and not specific to the terroir of production/storage/

transportation and long-term business interruption. Many policies have no per-hectare cover, no protection for trellises, do not provide adequate seasonal stock increases or stock in storage and transit and have not tested the business interruption in place. 75% of the risks we review have inadequate cover.

Solution

By accessing our sector specialists you will benefit from an independent review from sector experts.

In a time of significant growth, climate change, flash flooding and increasing stock levels there has never been a more important time to engage with an independent specialist.

Speak with David Baker or Nigel Holmes for further information.

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Winery + Vineyard Architecture We are a specialist architecture practice, who together with our selected partner consultants, can provide you with the design and coordination you need to deliver all types of quality vineyard building projects within the UK. In partnership with viticultural specialists, Vinescapes, we offer designs, help, advice, and management for all aspects of vineyard estate development.

High quality corks Want to put a cork in it? Look no further than Oller, a global leader in the production of high-quality corks for sparkling wines. Based in Reims in the heart of the Champagne region, Oller’s corks are chosen by wineries across the globe. Given the exceptional quality of English sparkling it seems only right that they are now looking to expand in the UK. Founded in 1892, Oller sources cork from a carefully selected group of growers in Spain to ensure the highest quality raw material for production. Cutting edge technology is used to produce a selection of corks to fit a range of needs, and Oller puts a huge emphasis on selection and quality control to ensure consistency and quality. Their exclusive Haloanisole Slow Extraction system (HSE) extracts and eliminates volatile compounds from the natural cork discs to minimise the risk of any aromas affecting the wine.

Wine on tap You may well associate kegs with beer and cider, but wine on tap is here, and it is here to stay!

Flexikeg produces kegs that are useful not just for serving wine on tap, but also for storing and transporting wines. The team, based in France, design and manufacture kegs that make life easier for winemakers, and which also help vineyards to reduce their carbon footprints.

When empty, the kegs are flat and foldable, making them easy to store and transport. They are also lightweight, reusable and recyclable, making them an eco-friendly solution for reducing your costs and your carbon-footprint. Flexikeg Kegs preserve wine stored in them from any external contact, even during dispensing, so it stays fresh for months on end. What is more, you can fill five kegs of 15 litres in less than three minutes, their "plug and drink" connection can fit into existing dispensing systems easily, emptying up to 99.5% of wine without any effort.

Flexikeg are now looking to bring their kegs across the Channel to help British winegrowers optimise investments, operating costs and their ecological footprint.

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Representing you Working in partnership with Vineyard magazine for a developing UK wine industry.

WineGB is the national trade body representing the vine growers and winemakers of Great Britain from the largest producers to small hobbyists.

Our members work together with the organisation to develop strategy, expertise and marketing opportunities for long-term, sustainable success.

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If you are interested in wine production in the UK find out more about WineGB and join us. Visit our website www.winegb.co.uk

WineGB Yield Survey 2023 With harvest 2023 at a close, we want to hear from you.

The WineGB Yield Survey 2023 requires your input on the size, quality, and conditions of this year's harvest. This critical information is used to create industry models and analysis, which in turn helps inform WineGB strategy and aids our ability to seek support for things like plant protection products and research grants.

The information in the survey will be used to compile the 2023 Vintage Report, which will be published in a standalone format to give you the information you need to make vineyard management decisions. Elements of it will be included in the important WineGB

Stanlake Park Vineyard

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Industry Report, due to be published in the first half of 2024.

All information submitted will be amalgamated and anonymised by two members of the WineGB team. No individual vineyard will be identified in the subsequent report.

To complete the Yield Survey, please visit: https://form.jotform.com/232744236011345 or alternatively, email phoebe@winegb.co.uk

Photo: Kate Palmer

UPCOMING EVENTS & WORKSHOPS

Wine of Great Britain All-Party Parliamentary Group Tasting, House of Commons

4 December 2023

Copenhagen Export Event

SWGB Workshop

Improving winery design to reduce environmental impact, Plumpton College Wine Centre

6 December 2023 Vinescapes Course

Winter pruning workshop, Tanhurst Estate Vineyard

12 February 2024

20 February 2024 22 February 2024

13 July 2024

Festival Napa Valley

19 July 2024

Stockholm Export Event

WineGB Awards Lunch

5 March 2024

4 September 2024

10-12 March 2024

TBC November 2024

WineGB Industry Conference

Prowein, Düsseldorf, Germany

WineGB Trade Tasting

Japan Export Event

10 January 2024 Vinescapes Course

Winter pruning workshop, Mannings Heath

20-22 May 2024 London Wine Fair

Join WineGB in 2024 If you are not already a member, why not consider joining WineGB in 2024. You will gain access to our Members’ Area with a wealth of technical information and webinars as well as our Members’ Forum where you can get advice and buy/sell used equipment and grapes.

As a member, you’ll also receive special discounted rates to all our events and benefit from further exposure opportunities, from trade events and export initiatives to wine tourism support and sustainability workshops.

Many service providers and suppliers also offer discounts to WineGB members.

We've had a successful and productive year in 2023, with a fantastic selection of events, from our popular Industry Conference in March and our celebratory WineGB Awards lunch in July to our well-attended Trade &

Press Tasting in September and sustainabilitythemed workshops throughout the year.

Members have had the chance to exhibit at the London Wine Fair and at ProWein as well as at a targeted export event in Oslo. We've added to our list of membership benefits, providing exclusive offers, discounts and free consultations for all WineGB members.

Thanks to a high response rate, we've been able to obtain the most accurate industry data we've ever had through our Yield Survey, Industry Survey, and Tourism Survey. Next year, we'll be doing more. As well as our core events and activity, expect more export activity, enhanced government lobbying, regional wine tourism workshops, informative content from our research & development work, and the continuation of our educational webinar programme.

If you are interested in joining, please visit the WineGB website – www.winegb.co.uk/join-us – or email phoebe@winegb.co.uk for more information.

WineGB membership entitles you to a free 15-minute consultation with legal firm and WineGB Partner Paris Smith.

Email phoebe@winegb.co.uk for more information.

JOIN WINEGB

phone-alt 01858 467792 paper-plane office@winegb.co.uk globe-asia www.WineGB.co.uk 53 D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

SPECIALISTS IN NEW AND USED FENDT TRACTORS, MACHINERY AND EQUIPMENT FOR VINE GROWERS. BOOK YOUR WINTER SERVICE WITH NP SEYMOUR TODAY.

Avon Works, Cranbrook, TN17 2PT • 01580 712200 • sales@npseymour.co.uk • www.npseymour.co.uk

ORDER NOW

£9.99*

2024 TRACTORS

CALENDAR

Includes 12 months of stunning photography from the archives of Tractor & Machinery and Ford & Fordson Tractors magazines. This superb calendar is a must for any tractor fan!

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VISIT SHOP.KELSEY.CO.UK/CAL24-TRA OR CALL 01959 543 747 AND QUOTE CAL24-TRA Lines are open Mon-Fri 8.30am to 5.30pm. Calls are charged at your standard network rate. Prices correct at time of print and subject to change.

For full terms and conditions visit shop.kelsey.co.uk/terms. To see how we use your data view our privacy policy here shop.kelsey.co.uk/privacy-policy. * Excludes postage and packaging.

MACHINERY & EQUIPMENT

New CL and N tractors complete Quantum series revisions New CL and N models have joined the updated V and F versions in the Case IH range of Quantum specialist tractors for 2024. With four models each available with five power outputs, the new Quantum tractors are radically different to their predecessors, with more than 70% of their components newly developed, covering key areas including the cab, engine, hydraulics and ActiveDrive2 transmission.

Five models in four styles

As with the V and F models for vineyard and fruit applications, the new Quantum CL and N models extend from the 74hp Quantum 80 to the 120hp Quantum 120 (rated figures), taking the total number of models across the four series to 20 different tractors. Apart from the Quantum 80, with its FPT F5C 3.4-litre engine, all models feature a

3.6-litre FPT F5C Stage V four-cylinder power unit with four valves per cylinder. Each Quantum incorporates a concealed Hi-eSCR2 exhaust after-treatment system, allowing for a low bonnet profile and good visibility for inter-axle attachments. The engines offer up to 13hp more output and up to 14 per cent more torque than the Stage IIIB power units they replace.

The 32F/16R ActiveDrive2 transmission offers travel speeds from 40 km/h down to 0.7 km/h, with an optional eight-speed creep package taking this down further to 0.17 km/h. Four-wheel drive is standard, and N models can be equipped with optional front axle suspension. In the cab, key features include a new A-pillar display and full compatibility with AFS guidance and AFS Connect telemetry solutions. A patented Category 4 dual filter system for the newly designed flat-floor cab is optional.

Quantum N (Narrow) tractors are just 1,325 mm wide, but the larger 1,145 mm-wide cab means the machines are suited to common vineyard row spacings of around 2.0 metres.

New Quantum CL tractors for row crops feature the same operator platform as the latest Quantum F models, but a wider front axle from standard Case IH tractors. With a permissible front axle load of 2,500 kg and a flange-to-flange dimension of up to 1,584 mm, this makes it possible to fit larger tyres, and so cover a diverse range of orchard and mixed farm tasks, particularly in hilly terrain, where in combination with electro-hydraulic 4wd and differential lock it maximises traction and stability. In addition, flexible PneuTrac® tyres with VF technology can also be fitted to further enhance traction and soil protection.

Both Quantum Series are now available from Case IH dealerships.

55

THE FRUIT & VITICULTURE

MACHINERY SPECIALISTS

ERNEST DOE & SONS LTD

IDEAL DROP SAVE SPRAYER - DEMONSTRATIONS AVAILABLE NOW CONTACT: our Fruit & Viticulture Machinery Sales Manager, Tom Wheatley, email: tomwheatley@ernestdoe.com or speak to your local Ernest Doe or Ernest Doe Power branch

ernestdoe.com

MACHINERY ADVICE AND TIPS

ur NP Sey mou r Ltd

Extend the life and value of your machinery

Cla i re Sey m o

With the harvest season drawing to a close, it’s crucial to start thinking about servicing your tractors and implements.

Servicing at regular intervals will reduce the risk of unexpected breakdowns, keep the cost of expensive emergency repairs down in the future, and help you avoid unnecessary downtime during the peak growing season.

Regular maintenance will also ensure that your machinery operates at peak efficiency throughout its life, and well-maintained equipment always retains more value, helping you to extend the life span of your investment and maximise resale values too.

Why post-harvest is the optimal time for servicing

Post-harvest, your machinery usage is generally lower, which means that downtime is minimal and servicing won't interrupt your schedule as much as it would through spring and summer.

If you’ve had a busy season – and let’s face it 2023 has been a pretty mega harvest – then a winter service will allow for early detection of any issues. Wear and tear or damage incurred over the year can be addressed and fixed before they turn into bigger, more costly problems.

It also means that you’re ready to get started in the New Year straightaway and it’s the perfect opportunity to get your equipment ready for the winter months.

Preparing tour tractors and machinery for winter

As the temperatures start to drop, it’s essential to prepare your tractors and machinery, particularly sprayers, for the harsher winter conditions.

Antifreeze is a must. Ensure that your engine's cooling system is flushed and filled with fresh antifreeze to prevent the engine from freezing, which can lead to costly damages.

Cold weather can be harsh on batteries too, causing starting issues on cold mornings. Ensure any external equipment is unplugged and not draining power. Simple things like an ignition or lights being left on will also cause more problems now the tractor won’t be working so regularly.

The winter can also be detrimental to sprayers. Thorough flushing out of chemical will ensure harmful residues do not build up which can cause breakages and blockages throughout the system. It is also essential to run through some antifreeze to prevent pumps and lines freezing, which then causes cracking or splitting of parts.

Proper lubrication of all moving parts will prevent seizing and corrosion during the damp winter months and cleaning will prevent debris and dirt from causing rust.

National Sprayer Testing Scheme Tests

Another great job to get ticked off the list at this time of year is your annual sprayer test. We are an official National Sprayer Testing Scheme (NSTS) registered centre and our team of qualified NSTS examiners normally advise carrying out a pre-test sprayer service to ensure your sprayer will pass.

The service is incredibly comprehensive; designed to cover all application components of the sprayer, we inspect the control systems, hoses and pipework, nozzles and nozzle control systems, filters and more to ensure the sprayer is working correctly, efficiently, and safely and will work in a satisfactory manner ready to pass the test.

The NSTS is the legally recognised standard for testing sprayers in the UK. It is essential to ensure your sprayers comply with the latest legislation and are working efficiently to effectively distribute pesticides, herbicides, and fertilisers.

Servicing your vineyard tractors and machinery annually, especially post-harvest, is not just about preventative maintenance, but it’s also an investment in your farm’s productivity and profitability.

By preparing your equipment for winter and ensuring compliance with the NSTS, you are setting the stage for a successful year ahead.

Don’t let the cold months catch you unprepared. Our team of highly skilled, regularly trained engineers and technicians can perform in-depth services using comprehensive checklists and the latest computer diagnostics to assess the electrical components alongside the usual wearing parts.

We also offer service and repairs of the Felco, FelcoTronic and PowerBlade electronic secateurs in time for pruning season.

Contact us today to schedule your service and NSTS test, and enter the winter season with confidence in your machinery’s performance., please phone the NP Seymour office on 01580 712200

57

Vitifruit Equipment Sales and Hire

MM FAN SPRAYERS

LIPCO RECIRCULATION SPRAYERS

PROVITIS TRIMMERS

BOISSELET CULTIVATORS & STRIMMERS

PROVITIS LEAF REMOVERS

PROVITIS PRE-PRUNER

www.vitifruitequipment.co.uk 58

/vitifruitequipment D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 | V I N E YA R D

 vitifruitequipment@sky.com

 01732 866567

D

ch

ard Witt

Using the Boisselet Rollhack

Sayel l & R d i i av

VITIFRUIT EQUIPMENT

Rollhack and Cutmatic These tools are great for fast operations, cutting and throwing soil by the vine into the strip under the vine. A degree of weed control can be achieved but the primary purpose is to open the soil up to the elements and break down any clods.

If weather conditions are favourable, exposed weed roots will wilt and die depending on how well the soil has broken apart in the process. What it can't do is reach out between the vines and undercut the weeds so further work is needed with other tools such as the Cutmatic or Petalmatic to achieve a complete weed free strip.

The discs can be set at three angles to enable the soil to be thrown in the desired direction and help the flow of tall or difficult weeds through without blocking; it has been found to be particularly good in heavy wet clay. As the Rollhack is just one tool in the armoury it's possible to combine it with others on the Boisselet tool frame to achieve a successful total weed kill strip in one pass.

These tools can be side, rear or front mounted on the tractor. After consecutive work with a Rollhack it has been found necessary to run through afterwards with the optional Petalmatic head in order to level out the ridge of soil formed around the vines, root out smothered weeds between the vines and pull back soil into the gulley which it has left alongside the vines.

Rollhack Boisselet

DESKTOP www.vitifruitequipment.co.uk phone-alt 01732 866567 ENVELOPE vitifruitequipment@sky.com

59

TECHNICAL SERVICES

Limited Period Only ENDS 15TH OF DECEMBER

Harvest is over! It is finally time to plan your expansion, improvements, or new winery fit-outs!

Order early and get your discounts as well as our engineers in good time for next year!

VINPILOT