Susan Henry Firstly I want to thank you for choosing Susan Henry Naturals and my Natural Color Process! I am so happy and thankful to have developed this eco-friendly and ammonia-free hair color…and most importantly am able to share it with you and your clients. I am a Los Angeles Native and I grew up in East L.A. in the 1960’s. Because there was no regulation on smog control in those days, the air pollution was so bad that as a kid we weren’t even allowed to play baseball in the streets on a summer day. I lived on a small street and there were some days that we couldn’t even see the house across the street due to the smog in the air. I have experienced how bad pollution can be first hand, but none more so than the toxicity from a lifetime as a colorist in Hollywood. After being diagnosed with ammonia poisoning I began a journey that led to the discovery and creation of our Natural Color Process haircolor, the 100% ammonia-free longest-lasting permanent natural color. To meet the exacting results my clientele in Beverly Hills demanded and expected the results had to be consistent and it needed to perform as well as chemical based haircolor. Not only did it meet their expectations…it surpassed them. I can’t wait for you to try our color for yourself! On a personal level I have always considered my effect on the planet and have always tried to lessen MY carbon footprint, even before it was “trendy”. I was exceptionally careful in developing this haircolor as I wanted it to not only drench your clients’ hair in chemicals, but I always wanted the color that washes down to the drain to be biodegradable I also think you don’t need 300 shades cluttering up your dispensary…as colorists we deserve to be the true artists we are with the creative freedom to create our own color palette. With only 6 intermixable shades you can create 32 of the most popular and trendy colors today. Try it, love it…I know you will. Dream in color,
Susan Henry SUSANHENRYNATURALS.COM
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Mission & Reason For Being To follow the Path of Nature in seeking non-toxic, naturally based alternatives for beautiful hair, minimizing the formulation to only what is needed and eliminating that which is not. Dedicated to the beauty professional we will carefully balance the natural elements needed with the science necessary to still get the job done.
of our Natural Color Process Susan Henry is one of Beverly Hills’ and Hollywood’s top colorists. She is a veteran of Umberto, Jose Eber, and Prive Salons, and her client list reads like a “who’s who of Hollywood.” But a number of years ago, that almost all came to an end. Susan began experiencing symptoms of ammonia poisoning as a result of daily exposure to ammoniabased hair color. Unwilling to give up the profession she loved and the sole means of support for her family, Susan continued to work despite debilitating rashes, eye infections, upper respiratory infections, and chronic bronchitis. Eventually she had to cut her client list from 500 to 50 select VIPs. She could only color her clients’ hair outdoors and while wearing a mask. As a single mother with ailing health, life became a struggle. Around this time, Susan visited her daughter who was studying botany at Humboldt State. Her daughter took her on a tour of the nearby redwoods forest, and Susan was immediately inspired by the natural surroundings and her daughter’s new-found botanical knowledge.
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When Susan returned home she began experimenting with herbs and natural ingredients. After many long nights doing research at the library, and countless experiments in her kitchen sink, Susan developed her all-natural, 100% ammonia free, permanent color process. Since developing her Natural Color Process, Susan’s health has improved immensely. She has also rebuilt her client list and won over many celebrities with her ammonia-free color. Susan is now offering this natural color process to other salon professionals that care about their health and the health of their clients.
A few things to bear in mind…
NCP has six shades of color to offer. With the six shades the salon professional can blend and make any desired natural shade they can come up with, from a level 1 to a level 10. When blending the color, it’s helpful to remember the primary color wheel. The browns are very ashy and the light blonde color is a blue base, the golden blonde a yellow base, the copper red a blue base, and the base in black is a very natural black. We have tried to keep our NCP hair color as natural as we can, so sometimes when a tube is opened, oil will come out of the tube first. The oil does have pigment so count it when you mix the color, do not discard it.
Determining a Formula When determining a formula, one must consider the canvas. (If someone is 50% gray the formula could be different than if someone is 100% gray)
Example:
If you want to achieve a medium brown on someone who is 50% gray you could use 15 grams of medium brown and 5 grams of dark brown to cover the gray. If someone is 100% gray you could use 10 grams of medium brown and 10 grams of dark brown to achieve the same color.
The more gray to cover, the more pigment you will need.
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Mixing! After putting the desired colors into a mixing bowl, before adding the developer you should mix the colors together first, so your desired color will be achieved. Then add the NCP developer. The amount of developer should be double the amount of color. Mix the developer and color together. The mixture will be slightly thin when first mixed and will start to thicken up.
Application
The color can be applied with a tint brush or a tint bottle depending on the preference of the professional.
Processing
NCP hair color must be processed with heat (Heat lamp, blow dryer, sun ext.)After applying the color to the hair apply heat. To cover stubborn gray apply heat for 20 minutes then let cool for 20 minutes, for a total processing time of 40 minutes. For all other processing times apply heat for 15 minutes and cool for 5 minutes, the cooling time helps the undertone deposit, so if you want to deposit more undertone like ash for example, let the color cool longer. Use your best judgment as a colorist. NCP is designed to be used with 3% or 10 volume hydrogen peroxide, which is a standard medical grade hydrogen peroxide. o -To cover gray use only 10 volume NCP developer. o -If you need a high lift 20 volume NCP developer can be used.
The Susan Henry Naturals team recommends using sulfate free and paraben free shampoos and conditioners.
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USING NCP FOR HILITES
NCP color works great in foils for highlights or any other technique a colorist would want to use.
USING NCP AS A TONER
When a colorist is using NCP as a toner for highlights or color:
For an ash based toner: Use the medium brown with 10 volume NCP developer and watch your highlights tone into a beautiful sandy blonde
For a blue based toner on very light hair: Use light blonde with 10 volume NCP developer
To achieve a light ash blonde tone: Mix medium brown and light blonde together
Using NCP as a Gloss
NCP hair color can be used as a gloss. Mix NCP Hair color to achieve the shade you would like to use on your client as a gloss to 4 times the amount of NCP 10 volume developer and ½ ounce of NCP gloss. For Example: If you have one ounce of color you would add ½ ounce of NCP gloss and four ounces of 10 volume NCP developer. Apply to hair from roots to end and let it set with NO HEAT for 10 to 20 minutes.
Helpful Hints 1. If the client has very gray hair and wants to be blonde, the colorist can use a mixture of light blonde or golden blonde and dark brown to cover gray. 2. For Example: 19 grams of light or golden blonde with 1 gram of dark brown.
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3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
To get a rich blue under tone of red use black with copper red. To get a more brown under tone of red use dark brown with copper red. To get a more yellow tone of red use golden blonde with copper red and brown. If a color is too dark it can be lightened with the light blonde Please feel free to experiment with your own formulas. You will find you can make a great number of beautiful colors, and leave your clients with beautiful, healthy, shiny hair.
NCP is Vegan, Environmentally friendly, and never tested on animals
Environmentally Friendly While doing research and development on NCP hair color Susan Henry realized how bad ammonia based color was for the environment, the ammonia color goes down drains all over the world! One thing you have to consider is that those chemicals are not being removed at the wastewater treatment plant. They are just flowing downstream to the next town where hopefully there is enough filtration that will remove them before someone else drinks it, but it just depends. Also keep in mind that those toxins are affecting the fish and wildlife in between and eventually it may just be pouring into the ocean.
Our Natural Color Process is made of organic compounds and is designed to be bio degradable in water and soil.
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Ingredients NCP has a wheat germ protein base with amino acids and flower extracts to penetrate the cortex and color the hair naturally. It also contains Jojoba and apricot kernel oil to keep hair shiny and beautiful. The flower extracts in NCP hair color help protect the color from fading, flowers naturally have enzymes to protect them from the sun, and keep the color of the flower beautiful, the flower extract in NCP hair color works the same way to protect the color from fading. As we have designed our color to eliminate as many unnecessary colors as possible, some ingredients are still needed to get consistent and lasting color results. As such, for clients who have had any sensitivities in the past ALWAYS do a patch test when in doubt.
PPD VS. PTD
The pigment is PPD my color has 0.05% PPD which is the lowest out there. Some color claim to be PPD free but instead us PTD which is toluene, toluene is a non-organic ingredient that is toxic causes cancer and birth defects. PPD is a coal tar derived pigment, derived naturally, however some people are allergic to coal tar so it is best to have as little pigment as possible but still get the job done, as far as being a percentage natural, all of the ingredients in my hair color are naturally derived and are organic compounds, the MEA is a weak watery solution from etholamine, etholamine is not a good ingredient but the MEA is basically an amino acid ( protein)
COMPLETE Ingredient list:
WATER, MONOETHANOLAMINE,PROPYLENE GLYCOL, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE, STEAYL ALCOHOL, CETERARETH20, CETYL ALCOHOL, OLEYL ALCOHOL, DIBUTYL ADIAPTE, APROCOT KERNEL OIL, POLYMERIC ALKY/ALLYL QUATERNARY AMMONIUM ACRYLATE, JOJOBA OIL, HYDROLYZED WHEAT PROTEIN, CALENDULA OFFICIANALIS FLOWER EXTRACT, LAVENDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA (LAVENDER) EXTRACT, TRIFOLIUM PARTENSE (CLOVER) EXTRACT, PINUS PALUSTRIS LEAF EXTRACT, DIANTHUS CARYOPHYLLUS FLOWER (CARNATION) EXTRACT, HELIANTHUS ANNUS (SUNFLOWER) EXTRACT, TETRASODIUM EDTA SODIUM SULFITE,SODIUM ISOASCORBATE, MAY CONTAIN: Para-Amino-o-Cresol, Meta-Phenylenediamine, Para-Phenylenediamine, 2-Nitro-p-Phenylephenoldiamine, Resorcinol, 4-Amino2-Hydroxytoluene, 3-Methyl-4-Aminophenol, N,O-Di(2-Hydroxyethl)-2-Amino-5-Nitropdiaminhenol, 2-Amino-6-Chloro-4Nitrophenol, 4-Amoni-3-Nitrophenol, 2-Amino-5-Nitrophenol, Para-Phenylenediamine Sulfate, N Bis (2-Hydroxyethl)-ParaPhenylenediamine Sulfate, Ortho-Aminophenol, 2-Methylresorcinol,1-Phenyl-3Methyl-5Pyrazolone, 5-Naphthalenediol, 4Chlororesorcinol, 1-Naphtol, Phenoxyethanol
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