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WHAT HAS INFLUENCED MILLENNIALS AND GENERATION Z’S PERCEPTION OF IDENTITY TO CHANGE AND HOW IS THIS AFFECTING CONSUMER BUYING BEHAVIOUR?
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Keri Breen N0746556 Word Count: 6,631
CONTENTS 1.1 INTRODUCTION............................................................................... P.2 1.2 RATIONALE...................................................................................... P.2 1.3 RESEARCH QUESTION.................................................................... P.3 1.4 AIMS................................................................................................. P.3 1.5 OBJECTIVES..................................................................................... P.3 2.0 LITERATURE REVIEW...................................................................... P.5 2.1 INTRODUCTION............................................................................... P.5 2.2 IDENTITY IN CONTEXT.................................................................... P.5 2.2.1 THE IDENTITY MATRIX...................................................... P.5 2.2.2 IDENTITY FORMATION...................................................... P.8 2.2.3 EGO IDENTITY.................................................................... P.9 2.3 GENDER AND THE POSTMODERN IDENTITY................................ P.11 2.3.1 A-GENDER AGENDA.......................................................... P.13 2.3.2 NEW MASCULINITY.......................................................... P.13 2.4 MARKET IMPLICATIONS............................................................... P.15 2.5 GENDER NEUTRAL MARKETING.................................................. P.18 2.5.1 IS IT THE END OF THE PINK AND BLUE DIVIDE?........... P.18 2.6 RESEARCH GAPS.......................................................................... P.19 3.0 METHODOLOGY............................................................................. P.21 3.1 OVERVIEW..................................................................................... P.21 3.2 SAMPLE GROUP............................................................................ P.22 3.3 SECONDARY RESEARCH.............................................................. P.22 3.4 PRIMARY RESEARCH................................................................... P.23 3.4.1 ONLINE QUESTIONNAIRE................................................ P.23 3.4.2 EMAIL INTERVIEWS......................................................... P.23 3.4.3 FOCUS GROUP.................................................................. P.25 3.4.4 INDUSTRY INTERVIEW..................................................... P.27 3.5 LIMITATIONS.................................................................................. P.27
4.0 PEST ANALYSIS...................................................................................................... P.29 4.1 POLITICAL............................................................................................................... P.29 4.2 ECONOMICAL......................................................................................................... P.29 4.3 SOCIAL.................................................................................................................... P.29 4.4 TECHNOLOGY.......................................................................................................... P.29 5.0 DISCUSSION........................................................................................................... P.31 5.1 CHAPTER ONE ATTITUDES AND BELIEFS............................................................. P.31 5.1.1 THE MIND AND SELF................................................................................. P.31 5.1.2 THE CONSCIOUS VS THE SUBCONSCIOUS BEHAVIOUR IN ACTION...... P.33 5.2 CHAPTER TWO A GENDERLESS WORLD.............................................................. P.35 5.2.1 CONSUMER INSECURITIES AND VULNERABILITIES........................ P.35 -37 5.2.2 BLUE VS PINK.......................................................................................... P.39 5.3 LALLA WANDAVI GENDER FREE CASE STUDY.................................................... P.41 6.0 CONCLUSION........................................................................................................ P.43 7.0 RECOMMENDATIONS........................................................................................... P.44 7.1 FASHION EXPRESSIONISM.................................................................................. P.44 7.2 GREEN MARKETING............................................................................................. P.44 8.0 GANTT CHART....................................................................................................... P.46 9.0 APPENDIX....................................................................................................... P.47-72 10.0 ILLUSTRATIONS........................................................................................... P.73-75 11.0 REFERENCES.............................................................................................. P.76-79 12.0 BIBLIOGRAPHY........................................................................................... P.80-85
1.1. INTRODUCTION This report revolves around the research question “How has Millennials and Generation Z’s perception of identity changed and how is this affecting consumer buying behaviour?”. The report will firstly identify key themes, existing research and theories within the topic of identity. Primary research will then be used to bridge the gaps identified whilst reviewing the literature and these results will be used to generate insights and springboard opportunities which can be applied by future professionals within the fashion industry.
1.2. RATIONALE The idea of identity and what that means has been a hot topic of discussion, especially in recent years as new generations redefine the term identity and what it has meant in the past. As the idea of identity being the defining factor of one’s race, sex and hierarchical status fades into the past, it is being reshaped by younger generations, taking on a more spiritual approach of expression and truth. Identity no longer has a one-dimensional meaning but has been expanded into different categories such as social identity, personal identity and gender identity. Debates exist within every topic involving identity, from the misconception of gender identity to the outdated identity theories such as Goffman (1963-64) and Berger (1966) which believe, “One identifies oneself, as one is identified by others, by being located in a common world.” (p.111). Key controversies have also been recognised in how people are identified and categorised by their identity and if this can be continued to be based upon a binary method. Therefore, the regeneration of identity has sparked the analysis of this topic. It is clear from the review of literature that further research is needed to understand what is driving the change in Millennials and Generation Z’s perception of identity and how this is affecting consumer buying behaviour within the fashion industry.
1.3. RESEARCH QUESTION What has influenced Millennial’s and Generation Z’s perception of identity to change and how is this affecting consumer buying behaviour?
1.4. AIMS The aim of this research is to understand the shift in the perception of identity that Millennials and Generation Z are experiencing and how this will affect consumer buying behaviour within the fashion industry in the future.
1.5. OBJECTIVES To define the factors of identity and what that means to Millennials and Generation Z. To understand why the perception of identity has changed drastically within the last century To investigate how the shift in identity has shaped the A-gender Agenda and New Masculinity? To investigate how Millennials and Generation Z are reacting to this shift in identity and how this is affecting consumer buying behaviour within the fashion industry.
2.0. LITERATURE REVIEW 2.1. INTRODUCTION: To establish a framework in support of current research exploration and the assessment of existing literature which will allow for a rigorous and relevant study. The development of new knowledge is dependant on the past and ultimately leads to idea generation. Therefore, the literature review allows the assessment of key concepts and the investigation of psychology and social science research; reflecting the history of identity and how consumer perspective is changing.
2.2. IDENTITY IN CONTEXT: 2.2.1. THE IDENTITY MATRIX Identity is derived from the Latin “idem” which means “being the same [person]” (Orde., 2016, p.6). Identity is understood as a cognitive self-image, shaped by habit, as a social attribution or role, as a habitus, a performance, or a constructed narrative (Berger & Luckmann., 1991, p.194). As a result of the reformist changes taking place in modern times, identity can be looked at as a reaction to these shifts within society. An example of this is Strauss’ theory which views identity as composed of self-appraisals by self and others; by placements and evaluations of individuals; by names bestowed on persons; and by changes experienced and imposed over the course of a lifetime. Furthermore, Mead’s theory of Social Behaviourism states that an individual will form their identity through a process of interaction and communication. Mead presents an understanding that the conflicts and shift in modern societies will affect one’s identity formation (Mead, 1967). Identity is used as an organising concept. People have a desire to ‘place’ others within the man-made social hierarchy that makes up modern society; this is called impression formation (Cote, Levine., 2002). The idea of impression formation if further explored through Tajfel’s Social Identity Theory (1979) which proposes that a person’s social identity is based on their group membership (McLeod, 2008). Tajfel states that the group one belongs to forms an important sense of pride and self-esteem as it gives one a feeling of belonging (2008).
Additionally, Goffman treats the definition and interpretation of individuals in ‘The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life’ (1959) as performing characters in social situations. Concluding, against the common sense view, that the “performed self” is a product of the interactional scene not its cause (Weigert, Teitage, Teitage., 2010). It is important to note that this theory both supports and contrasts the ideas presented above. Goffman recognises that one’s identity is majorly influenced by group membership but unlike Tajfel and Mead, Goffman describes the theatrical performance that takes place during face-to-face interactions. Goffman believes that when an individual comes into contact with another person, they attempt to control the situation and the impression that person will form of them by altering their appearance, characteristics and setting. Stone argues that identity is constantly changing because it is “intrinsically associated with all the joining’s and departures of social life (1970). Taking inspiration and knowledge from themes of Erikson, Strauss and Goffman by linking identity to situated social relationships and discussing how “appearances” are the situational foundation for the identities one presents to others (Weigert, Teitage, Teitage., 2010). Berger’s article, ‘Identity as a Problem in the Sociology of Knowledge’ (1966) states, “One identifies oneself, as one is identified by others, by being located in a common world” (p.111). Furthermore, Berger and Luckman expand on this topic in their book, ‘The Social Construction of Reality’ (1966) explaining how historically available types of identity are social realities; and they are nothing but social. However, personal identity is a social reality in individual experience and anchored in individual bodies.
2.2.2. IDENTITY FORMATION Identity exists within critical social science as sociocultural factors form the structure and content of human self-definition (Weigert, Teitage, Teitage., 2010). Meaning, social reality is a human production; and humans themselves are societal productions (Berger and Luckmann, 1966). This idea links back to the social constructionist paradigm which was articulated by Goodman (1968, 1972, 1978) as equally rational, competent, and informed observers are free of external realist and internal innate constraints to form different realities (Gergen, Davis, 1985). There are two different social constructionist strategies. One being the reductionist and the other being the pragmatic. The reductionist argument is that there is no ‘reality’ such as social structure. Individuals are responsible for their own identities. In contrast, the pragmatic argument states there are irreducible ‘levels of social reality’, which means an individual’s responsibility for their own identities are variable and constrained (Weigert, Teitage, Teitage., 2010). Identity had become a cultural buzzword and social label by the 1980s. Its theoretical and cultural importance allowed for social scientists, philosophers, psychologists and the media to continue to dispute and develop the idea of identity further (Rosenberg and Turner, 1981).
2.2.3. EGO IDENTITY In the 1930’s scholar Erik Erikson uncovered children’s identification with their parents. In fact, he found that children identify with their parents over a number of deep human issues, such as security, sexuality, self-government, shame and guilt. As a result, Erikson developed the idea of the ‘ego’ by looking at the conflicting aspects of human nature and social reality, through the Fruedian formulations of ethos and ego; reformulating it as “group identity” and “ego identity” (Erikson, 1956). After writing about human development, historical change and personal health with identity being the organizing concept, Erikson noted “personal identity” as the way we are seen and interpreted by others (Weigert, Teitage, Teitage., 2010). Furthermore, Erikson wrote,
“Ego identity is the awareness of the fact that there is a selfsameness and continuity to the ego’s synthesizing methods and that these methods are effective in safeguarding the sameness and continuity of one’s meaning for others.” (Erikson, 1946 p.23).
Erikson states in his article ‘The Problem of Ego Identity’, that identity is a functioning psychological achievement of individuals and limited by the sociohistorical moment in which that individual lives. Furthermore, Erikson said,
“Identity appears as the only one concept within a wider conception of the human life cycle which envisages childhood as a gradual unfolding of the personality through phase-specific psychosocial crises.” (Erikson, 1956 p.74, 76).
This is expressed in an eight-stage epigenetic principle (refer to figure 1) of the component parts of the psychosocial personality (Erikson, 1956 p.76). Erikson makes the argument that contemporary society makes adolescents of us all and therefore, the identity crisis becomes the biographical crisis of the modern person (Weigert, Teitage, Teitage., 2010).
Hendrick Ruitenbeck builds on Erikson’s idea throughout his book ‘The Individual and the Crowd: A Study of Identity in America (1964). Ruitenbeck refers to identity as a needed integrative idea for making sense out of modern society. Religious thinkers have further indicated the cultural use of identity by bringing phrases such as “character”, “self” and “soul” and applying them to the term “search for identity” (Shinn, 1964).
2.3. GENDER AND THE POSTMODERN IDENTITY: Gender historically has divided humans into two categories: male or female. This system organises every part of a person’s life in modern society where they are assigned a place in a binary structure of gender. An example of this would be identity documents and public toilets (Francis, Waring, Stavrpoulos, Kirkby., 2002). However, it is important to note that sex identity; the biological criteria of genetic and physiological classifications such as male XY or female XX chromosomal configurations (Weigert, Teitage, Teitage., 2010), must not be confused with gender identity; the internalized sociocultural meanings and expectations that accompany the normal sense of maleness or femaleness taken for granted in society (Kessler and McKenna 1978; Petras 1978; Ponse 1978). Anthropologist Margaret Mead (1949) conducted cross-cultural research which found that sex is a biological given, while gender is a social construct. The idea that gender identity is a social construct is further explored by Oakley (1972) and Stoller (1968):
“…a child can achieve a firm gender identity as a male even if he lacks the prime insignia of maleness, a penis. The child senses that gender is not necessarily defined by sex… Mostly the social situation defines gender (wife = woman, dentist = man) or gender is visible as a sum of qualities, including mannerism, way of speaking, dress, choice of topics in conversation and so on. Gender is a visible fact of the most time: sex is not.” (Oakley., 1972 p.161).
Kessler and McKenna (1978, p.10) explain the difference between gender identity and “genderrole identity” which “refers to how much a person approves of and participates in feelings and behaviours, which are seen as ‘appropriate’ for his/her gender.” Additionally, Kessler and McKenna (1978) acknowledge that gender identity is a self-attribution. Petras expands on this topic by claiming, “gender identity allows us to make sense out of ourselves as neutral objects in a symbolic environment” (1978, p.97). Furthermore, the gender system has historically privileged the male over the female. As a result, modern society operates within a hierarchy where masculine connotations are seen as positive and feminine connotations seen as negative. This idea is backed up by the Greek Philosopher Aristotle who stated that men are stronger, women are weaker, mean courageous, women cautious, men the outdoors type, women domestic, men educate children, women nurture children (Aristotle, 1968-69).
“The concept of Identity has undergone a major revision in postmodern times. Earlier views of individuals as self-determined, integrated beings have been replaced by a more complex notion of individuals as multiple subjectivities, sometimes described as fractured or split.” (Francis, Waring, Stavrpoulos, Kirkby., 2002 p.33).
People use identity as a factor that enables them to discuss common experiences with likeminded people, who are what they see as crucial features of their social positioning. This is called shared identity. However, for those excluded from the concept of a shared identity they lack the influence and validation of their experiences which are considered different from the norm; not because it was inferior but because they were socially and politically less powerful (Francis, Waring, Stavrpoulos, Kirkby., 2002).
2.3.1. A-GENDER AGENDA The A-gender Agenda is the concept of pushing past the idea of girls borrowing boys clothing and opening the spectrum so that any type of clothing is available to anyone regardless of what they identify as. As previously mentioned, the idea of identity and what that means has changed within postmodern society. As a result, more industries are becoming inclusive and new identities are given the opportunity to enter the mainstream mindset. Furthermore, the A-gender Agenda is paving a new way where the consumer’s gender is no longer a deciding factor in the clothes you wear (Walker, Buchanan, Stott, 2015).
2.3.2. NEW MASCULINITY After the 21st century was named the ‘Female Century’ women started to find their roles outside traditional jobs of ‘mother’ and ‘wife’. As a result, men had to reconfigure what masculinity meant to them. This ideology is named ‘New Masculinity’ and explores the ideas of authenticity and holistic self-awareness. The need for a change in the normative view of masculinity can be seen within the men’s liberation movement and as modern society continues to develop, there is a need for a new man that differs from social expectations of traditional masculinity (Kaplan, Rosenmann, Shuhendler, 2016).
2.4. MARKET IMPLICATIONS: For years brands have operated under the pretence that consumers are making decisions based on their gender binary. However, solely marketing to an individual’s gender binary will run the risk of alienating consumers who do not fit into the traditional binary of masculine and feminine (Powers., 2019). The insights by J. Walter Thompson Intelligence (2015) when researching Generation Z’s relationship with gender and sexual orientation demonstrate this; “81% do not think their gender defines a person as much as it used to”. This is further evidenced by the results gathered from Pew Research Center (2019) where 59% of Generation Z and 50% of Millennials believe forms or online profiles should include options other than “man” or “woman”. Likewise, research conducted at the American Psychological Association (2005) found that a person’s sex has little to do with their personality, cognition and leadership abilities. For example, a consumer may identify as a woman but partake in activities such as sports that are traditionally viewed as ‘male hobbies’.
“THERE ARE MORE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN INDIVIDUALS THAN THERE ARE BETWEEN GENDERS…IF YOU USE GENDER AS YOUR METRIC, YOU WON’T SEE WHAT THEY’RE ACTUALLY INTERESTED IN.” – CHRISTIA SPEARS BROWN, UNIVERSITY OF KENTUCY.
2.5. GENDER NEUTRAL MARKETING: As this cycle of gender stereotyping has progressed, consumers feel trapped into thinking they are supposed to desire products and brands traditionally marketed to their gender. However, there has been a reshaping of gendered marketing in recent years. Millennial and Generation Z consumers are purposefully seeking out brand experiences inclusive to people of all gender identities and who do not judge their preferences based on stereotypes (Powers, K., 2019). This is further evidenced by the insights gathered by Pew Research center (2019) where they found 50% of Generation Z and 47% of Millennials think society is not accepting enough to people who do not identity as either man or woman. Furthermore, anthropologist Kate Snyder made a powerful point in aid of gender-neutral marketing saying,
“We’re I the midst of a powerful cultural movement, one in which people are beginning to embrace the fluidity of gender and that they way we identify and express ourselves doesn’t have to strictly fall under masculine and feminine stereotypes. Brands should be mirroring and representing this shift in order to stay with the times.”
2.5.1. IS IT THE END OF THE PINK AND BLUE DIVIDE? Although the pink and blue divide does reign over other industries, marketers are beginning to understand the importance of taking a gender-neutral approach. A report by Instant Grass International (2016) concluded there is a worldwide rise of genderneutral marketing and it is here to stay. Furthermore, the report outlined that brands must embrace this trend to stay relevant to their consumers. Additionally, Benjamin Lord (2019), executive director of omni-channel marketing at NARS urged brands across all industries to make gender-neutral marketing a priority, particularly if they seek to engage with younger consumers. Lord reiterated marketers need to change their approach to consumers. It is about moving beyond marketing to sexes by making distribution, packaging, advertising and even communications gender-neutral. “Supporting brands that stand for self-expression, inclusion and social progress is deeply important to younger generations.” – Lord, 2019.
2.6. RESEARCH GAPS: Throughout the literature review, many opportunities and research gaps were identified for further exploration. Overall there is a clear lack of research into how Millennial’s and Generation Z’s perception of identity is changing with further investigation needed into how this is affecting consumer buying behaviour. This lack of information allowed for specific questions and research methods to be chosen in order to bridge this gap and collect in depth relevant data to support these questions. However, the literature review has allowed to build an extensive understanding of identity, how it was formed and how its many aspects affect individuals and the fashion industry in a variety of ways. Themes identified such as ‘gender neutral marketing’ and the ‘A-gender Agenda’ will be explored further and applied to the current market and society in order to gain a deeper understanding and successfully develop to gain desired results.
3.0.METHODOLOGY 3.1. OVERVIEW: Both primary and secondary research methods were conducted during the duration of this report. This ensures a rigorous and well-rounded study which highlights and legitimizes the insights found. Throughout the duration of this study, “mixed method� research was applied; this was done by combining qualitative, quantitative methods and a literary review to ensure a thorough investigation of this subject was carried out, as well as the documentation of limitations found. Furthermore, each method used are carefully linked back to the objectives previously mentioned in order to keep the study focused.
3.2. SAMPLE GROUP: From the secondary research conducted the findings showed that Millennials and Generation Z are the two generations who are influenced and affected the most by their identity. Therefore, both generations have been targeted for primary research purposes with acknowledgement that they are the pioneers of this trend. As both generations share mutual opinions of what identity means and how it should be applied within marketing in comparison to older or younger generations, the age range is 18-25. This age selection was chosen in relation to the secondary research which was carried out. Furthermore, the age selection will ensure relevant and modern results which will support the research topic as older generations do not view identity to be off the same importance and magnitude as Millennials and Generation Z. Additionally, people below the age of 18 where excluded from this study due to lack of resources and ethical issues. Furthermore, this study has been opened to both men and women who identify as heterosexual, homosexual and bisexual. Although this was not intentional and therefore the ratio of non-binary participants is unequal, this will allow for an unbiased and fair analysis of how all participants personally identify.
3.3. SECONDARY RESEARCH: Throughout this study multiple sources were analysed during the process of secondary research. This allowed for a thorough and relevant literary review as mases of information was available on the subject which when applied, identified key themes and insights for what further research needed to be conducted. The sources used included journals and books from key theorists and anthropologists within the research area, alongside trend reports and articles from LSN Global, Pew Research Center, J. Walter Thompson Intelligence and the American Psychological Association. The variety of sources used within the study allowed for an in-depth review and analysis of debates, statistics and experiences revolving around the subject area, highlighting both the positive and negative aspects. However, a limitation to the research is the lack of resources which restricted the scope of literature collected. Additional sources which added to the secondary research were TedTalks, social media, brand websites and blogs. This allowed for a wider view of the topic area; however, it was subject to bias, personal opinion and lack of research data to support statements. Nonetheless, the insights gained were relevant in understanding the shifting mindsets of Millennials and Generation Z, often adding credibility to other secondary research collected.
3.4. PRIMARY RESEARCH:
3.4.1. ONLINE QUESTIONNAIRE The first primary research method used was an online questionnaire. This method was used with the aim to fill the gaps highlighted by the secondary research and collect relevant and up to date data which supports how Millennials and Generation Z’s perception of identity is changing. The use of an online questionnaire allows for an increased response rate at a low cost and because there is no interviewer, respondents typically feel more comfortable to answer questions honestly which allowed for responses to be accurate and appropriate. However online questionnaires run the risk of survey fraud where participants will give fake answers. By relying solely on respondent availability, there is a danger of receiving a limited sample or a lack of responses (Howard, 2019). Furthermore, the lack of explanation made it difficult to analyse the reasoning behind a participant’s answers and therefore made gaining insights difficult using this primary research method alone; because of this, other qualitative research methods were used to gain a deeper understanding of the participants attitudes towards identity rather than relying on statistics alone. The online questionnaire gained 91 responses made up of 15.3% males and 84.6% females, aged 18-25. However, a limitation is that the ratio of non-binary respondents is unknown due to the anonymous nature of responses. Another limitation of this research method is the lack of male responses which can make the data biased in the sense that the majority is female opinions.
3.4.2. EMAIL INTERVIEWS The email interviews were conducted following the responses gained from the online questionnaire. As a result, gaps in knowledge and the need for an in depth and detailed analysis of participants perception of identity and how that affects their shopping experience was identified. By using this qualitative method of research, it allowed for investigative questions which resulted in participants having more time to articulate their responses and give insightful and revealing information. The questions were structed in a way that first targeted their personal identity, gender identity and how they affect their retail and purchasing experience. The structured nature of the questions allows the intention of the interview to remain clear, so that participants did not become confused and overwhelmed. As a result, relevant and insightful responses were collected which aided the study and assisted as a further explanation of other results generated.
3.4.3. FOCUS GROUP The use of a focus group allowed for the creation of a discussion, involving a total of six participants between the ages of 18-25, who all have a range of points of view. This sample was made up of heterosexual, homosexual and bisexual individuals and although it was not intentional, allowed for an interesting and in-depth conversation where some interesting insights emerged. Furthermore, the ratio of men to women remained equal to ensure all participants felt comfortable without one gender outnumbering another. However, a limitation of this research was that the ratio of nonbinary participants was uneven due to their unintentional involvement. Although focus groups allow for participants to express their opinions and point of view there is a limitation that certain participants may dominate the conversation. Whilst conducting this method of qualitative research, it was important to lead the conversation in a manner which allowed for all participants to feel comfortable to speak up and contribute openly to the conversation. Firstly, the participants conducted Manford Kuhn’s Twenty Statements Test (See Appendix 1), which allowed for a deeper understanding of how each individual describes their identity under time constraint. Secondly, the topics of gender identity, personal identity and shopping habits were based on the secondary research and online questionnaire results. This ensured the conversation remained structured and beneficial to the study. As a result, an informal yet insightful group discussion took place. Both the gendered language task and Twenty Statements Test were practiced under time constraints of three minutes to successfully tap into the participants subconscious and get their system one response. The answers were individually written down on a piece of paper, remaining uninfluenced by others. A short discussion took place afterwards which allowed participants to compare points of view. This allowed for the identification of contradictions of what the participant was answering consciously and subconsciously, gaining a deeper understanding of personal and gender identity and how it affects their buying behaviour. Furthermore, all participants were encouraged to expand on and justify all answers and challenge others when appropriate, creating a relevant and insightful debate and analysis.
3.4.4. INDUSTRY INTERVIEW An industry interview was carried out with founder of Lalla Wandavi, Maria Laura to gain further insight into how the A-gender Agenda is shaping the fashion industry and in turn, influencing consumers buying decisions. Lalla Wandavi is a vegan, gender free knitwear brand which strives to go beyond the male vs female market and is proud to have moved beyond the “gender differentiation and want to make beautiful minimal and inspired by nature knitwear available to anyone, regardless the gender” (Laura., 2020). The industry interview was conducted via email. This can be seen as a limitation as questions are open to interpretation by the participant although, all questions were phrased in a structured and detailed manner to prevent this from happening. However, the nature of this research method allowed for a detailed and insightful response. Furthermore, an email interview was the most efficient method to contact industry professionals due to time constraints, cost and lack of resources.
3.5. LIMITATIONS Although the limitations of each research method have been discussed in detail, others still exist such as the lack of control the interviewer has over the online questionnaire. Another limitation is the potential dishonesty or inconsistent way the participant completes the research. However, the mixed method research approach, which is made up of multiple methods, allows for a higher chance of reliability in that the responses collected are relevant to the study. Furthermore, the number of industry interviews conducted can be seen as another limitation due to the lack of different point of views which made for a biased response. Furthermore, umbrella terms have been used throughout the literary review and discussion such as ‘A-gender Agenda’ and ‘non-binary’. This method was used to categories that which sits outside of the traditional female and male identities, therefore, there is a risk of generalisation. However, these umbrella terms addressed a large scope of different identities in order to present a cohesive argument and in depth analysis.
4.0. PEST ANALYSIS 4.1. POLITICAL: Governments are acknowledging the complexity of gender, adopting a range of new approaches to sex designation. The cultural awareness of the fluidity of gender, gender identity and the gender expression are expanding and as a result, governments globally are relaxing and expanding their standards of gender classification by reviewing changes to the Gender Recognition Act (Wipfler., 2016). This change will, therefore, improve the rights of transgender, non-binary, gender nonconforming and intersex people. The European Parliament is attempting to “bring language evolution at par with gender inclusive legislation.” This means developing linguistically for gender neutrality and gender inclusion which has been addressed though its guidelines on ‘Gender-Neutral Language in the European Parliament” and ‘Gender Mainstreaming in the European Parliament (Xynou., 2019).
4.2. ECONOMICAL: Millennials and Generation Z together makeup 64% of the world’s population, equating to roughly 4.7 billion people (Bakhtiari, 2019). Furthermore, a retail equity analyst, Lauren Cassel stated, “After reaching a low point of 1.7% in 2018, total consumption growth – the largest component of GDP – is projected to climb steadily to average 2.5% in the 2030s, driven by Millennials, then Gen Z, moving through their prime working years.” Therefore, Millennial and Generation Z consumers are not a group businesses can risk ignoring and must change their marketing techniques to appeal to this demographic. Christina Zervanos, the head of PR at The Phluid Project stated, “These generations are the future of retail, accounting for $143 billion in spending in the next four years.” Furthermore, demand for genderless fashion is incredibly high, this was further evidenced when ASOS released its unisex collection and became the fourth most popular offering within that week (Alnuweiri., 2018). This shows that genderless fashion is on the rise and brands who follow this trend will earn a large profit as more consumers continue to join the genderless trend.
4.3. SOCIAL: Governments are acknowledging the complexity of gender, adopting a range of new approaches to sex designation. The cultural awareness of the fluidity of gender, gender identity and the gender expression are expanding and as a result, governments globally are relaxing and expanding their standards of gender classification by reviewing changes to the Gender Recognition Act (Wipfler., 2016). This change will, therefore, improve the rights of transgender, non-binary, gender nonconforming and intersex people. The European Parliament is attempting to “bring language evolution at par with gender inclusive legislation.” This means developing linguistically for gender neutrality and gender inclusion which has been addressed though its guidelines on ‘Gender-Neutral Language in the European Parliament” and ‘Gender Mainstreaming in the European Parliament (Xynou., 2019).
4.4. TECHNOLOGY: To successfully target Millennials and Generation Z, brands need to use social media as a main marketing tool. These generations media consumption habits are significantly different as they consume more YouTube than traditional television per day. With the oversaturated landscape of social media, Generation Z’s attention span is just eight seconds compared to Millennials which is twelve seconds (Arthur., 2016). As a result, brands need to invest in social media as a marketing platform to create relevant content which will grab these consumers attention.
5.0. DISCUSSION 5.1. CHAPTER ONE ATTITUDES & BELIEFS: 5.1.1. THE MIND & SELF The literary review revealed indisputable evidence that Millennial’s and Generation Z’s perception of what identity means has changed in comparison to their parental generation; Generation X which is the demographic cohort between the ages of 40-55 years old. The research suggests these younger generations are more open minded in terms of sexual and gender identity in comparison to older age groups. The data collected from the online questionnaire supports this, revealing that 87% believe, unlike their parents’ generation, that identity is no longer about the race, sex or status you were born into but about the expressionism of an individual’s personal identity which is authentic to how they see themselves.
“I THINK THERE IS MORE FREEDOM TO BREAK FROM SOCIETAL NORMS SURROUNDING IDENTITY TO CREATE A MORE UNIQUE VERSION TRUER TO YOURSELF.” (RESPONDENT #80, 2020). Another defining factor of Millennial’s and Generation Z’s identity is the importance of groups. However the data both supports and contradicts the information gathered in the literature review as 61.3% of respondents answered their personal sense of identity is impacted by both individualisation and tribes while the data analysed from the email interviews revealed group opinions formed participants identity and affected the way in which they conducted themselves.
“Due to being mixed race and not knowing my specific origin I never openly expressed myself in that way and tried to maintain a British identity whilst at school to fit in with other people. I was called names due to my colour with words like ‘dirty’ and ‘arab’ being used. But now that I am an adult and express myself with people that care about me, they are a lot more open.” (0407, 2020).
The data supports Goffman’s idea presented in the literature review that an individual alters their appearance, characteristics and settings in different situations to feel accepted into specific groups. Furthermore, the idea that gender plays an integral part in the make-up of an individual’s identity is further evidenced when respondents of the online questionnaire were asked how much their gender identity impacts their social identity which the data showed to be an average of 66%. This reflects how important gender is to younger generations in terms of the development of their personal and social identity. Millennial’s and Generation Z are more aware of gender and what that term means, understanding that it moves beyond the sex you were born into. The data collected from the email interviews demonstrates a high level of awareness when participants were asked what gender identity means to them, “Personally, gender identity means the actions that you take as part of the gender you identify with.” (0407, 2020). Although, because gender is personal to each individual, responses varied. “Gender identity is what we are perceived and expected to wear and act because of our sex, but this is becoming less necessary with people being much more open to the LGBTQ+ community, and more acceptance into genderless fashion, makeup etc.” (2912, 2020). The analysis of data revealed, although there was a good understanding of what gender means, the lines between gender identity and sex identity remained blurred in some cases.
5.1.2. THE CONSCIOUS VS THE SUBCONSCIOUS BEHAVIOUR IN ACTION: To tap into the participants subconscious, Kuhn’s Twenty Statement Test was used as a method within the focus group. The results revealed, according to Kuhn’s analysis, that all participants answered in their subconscious state, as their private self. An insightful observation was made in the discussion after the test which further evidenced successfully tapping into the participants subconscious mind, “I completely forgot to write down my sexuality! I can’t believe I forgot…I’m so surprised I forgot, because I feel like it’s such a big part of who I am, and I talk about it all the time.” (1250, 2020). When asked to describe who they are, participants focused primarily on styles of behaviour such as personality traits rather than physical attributes and socially defined status’. These results somewhat contradict the data from the online questionnaire in that they demonstrate that on a conscious level, participants place great importance on their sexuality and gender. However, subconsciously, while still important, personal characteristics and attributes are of a higher importance when describing the factors that makeup one’s identity. However, a limitation is that although this method is intended to target the participants subconscious, it is impossible to guarantee all questions will be answered in this state and responses often switched between the private and public self. Furthermore, insightful data was found when participants of the focus group were asked to label what they thought had positive or negative connotations of gendered language, typically seen as masculine or feminine. The results revealed all six participants stated that words with typically masculine connotations are more positive than words with typically feminine connotations. Unveiling an interesting contradiction into participants conscious and subconscious behaviour, as although these participants think of themselves as open minded individuals who do not conform to outdated gender stereotypes, their subconscious still operates under that mindset. This is further evidenced by the data collected from the email interviews which suggested the majority of participants feel a pressure to follow a certain stereotype based on their sex. “I feel pressure to have the perfect figure, always have nails done and body shaved…” (5555, 2020). Additionally, the results challenge the research gathered in the literature review and subsequently answers the question of what mental blockage
5.2. CHAPTER TWO A GENDERLESS WORLD 5.2.1. CONSUMER INSECURITIES AND VULNERABILITIES Group membership is a defining factor in the development of one’s identity and influencing buying behaviour. 59.3% of online questionnaire respondents voted they feel their personal sense of identity is impacted by both tribes and individualism whilst 29.6% voted for tribes alone. These responses build a foundation that individuals place high importance on group membership and validation from others. Surprisingly, female focus group participants expressed insecurities when asked if they would prefer shopping in the other genders section online or in-store. Collectively the participants agreed that they would prefer to shop online. “Tt’s more comfortable to shop online anyway, but also there’s the no judgement aspect.” (1111, 2020). When challenged if this was because they felt embarrassed there was contrasting responses which both supports and challenges the ease of girls buying boys clothing expressed within the literature review under the title ‘A-gender Agenda’. “No, I wouldn’t say I do but I just prefer shopping online these days…I feel like you can get better deals” (2912, 2020), whilst another participant answered, “…well actually, maybe embarrassment is the right word. I feel more comfortable online because I can take my time, whereas I feel rushed in-store, like I need to get in and out and look like I know what I’m doing.” (1111, 2020). In contrast, male respondents collectively preferred to shop in-store. “I definitely prefer shopping in-store. Just because I can umm…actually look at the clothes, you know the material and size.” (0710, 2020). However, the majority felt that they would not intentionally browse the other genders section without female company, “…I’d probably shop at women’s stuff more because I go shop with my sister or like if I was with my [female] friends, I’d be like ‘oh that’s cool’.” (1734, 2020). The analysis of the responses gathered give insight that male participants felt more comfortable “looking for other people” as well as themselves, which prevented them from feeling the “stigma” which surrounds shopping from the women’s section. This is further evidenced by participant 2507 (2020) who expressed, “I wouldn’t feel completely comfortable picking it out and taking it to the till…if I had the opportunity to, I wouldn’t make it obvious I was buying women’s clothing.” In contrast, another participant challenged these views. “I’m actually the opposite….it wouldn’t bother me to try women’s clothes on instore or go to the till to pay for it…” (0710, 2020).
Figure 2
Therefore, the data supports there is a clear link between the need for approval from others and the impact this has on one’s shopping experience. This relates to the Adoption of Innovation Curve (refer to figure 2) and can be seen to be in the early adopters stage of its life cycle as only a minority of participants partake openly in the genderless trend while others feel they are unable to openly adopt the trend. This therefore evidences the genderless trend as in the early adopter’s phase of the trend curve, and with group approval the trend should flourish into the next stages of the adoption curve. Furthermore, this supports the ‘Social Identity Theory’ illustrated by Tajfel in the literature review which proposes group membership has a large impact on a person’s social identity.
5.2.2. BLUE VS PINK: As the idea of gender, sex and how it factors into one’s identity develops, participants of the focus group were asked what being a man or woman means to them. The results analysed presented a range of opinions. One participant seen being a woman as “feminine” and “girly” while others didn’t feel “cute” or “petite” but “empowered” because of the “feminine movement”.
“[THE FEMININE MOVEMENT] SORT OF DEFINES ME AS A WOMAN BECAUSE I’M LIKE I CAN DO ANYTHING I WANT TO DO AS A WOMEN BUT THEN I’M LIKE, COME NEAR ME WITH A PINK DRESS AND I’M GOING TO KICK YOU.” (1111, 2020). Another participant recognised the advantages that men experience and stated, “I’d rather be a man than a woman…Like I’m a white male so I have life easier.” (1734, 2020). While another participant expressed, “I don’t think I’m anything specifically because I’m a man” (2507, 2020) preferring describing who they are as a person with the use of personal characteristics. The understanding of an individual’s perception of gender and what that means to them is essential in understanding how their gender identity affects their shopping experience and overall buying behaviour. Due to the male and female stereotypes ingrained in the subconscious, the majority of focus group participants expressed they feel their gender identity affects their shopping experience. “I would say yes just because for example, if I had a choice between a pink or black water bottle – even if I liked the pink one better – I would probably still choose the black one.” (0710, 2020). The data supports the literature review in the sense that male and female gender stereotypes are still controlling consumers purchasing habits to a certain extent, although their personal beliefs contradict this behaviour. However, further data both supports and challenges the literature in a marketing sense that certain industries are moving beyond outdated gender stereotypes to appeal and remain relevant to the modern consumer. Although, participants agreed their gender identity affects their shopping experience, the responses analysed did not conclude this as always being negative but coming down to the personal preference of each individual.
“I think it goes the opposite way for me though, because I think in reality…my gender should probably mean that I shop for more feminine things but I’ve kind of done the opposite thing and I literally just wear…men’s clothes.” (1250, 2020).
When asked ‘have you ever considered shopping in the opposite genders section’, participants agreed unanimously that they had, expressing feelings that they believe it is more acceptable to do so than it would have been years ago. “But then you grow up and people don’t judge you as much because they don’t think you’re just some kid shopping around.” (1734, 2020). Overall, there is a strong sense that gender stereotypes play a large deciding factor in a consumer’s purchasing decision. There is a need for a space free of judgement and labels where consumers can feel empowered to purchase what they desire instead of what society dictates they should desire based on a gender binary.
5.3. LALLA WANDAVI ‘GENDER FREE’ CASE STUDY: Lalla Wandavi is a gender-neutral vegan knitwear brand which is the pioneer for ‘Compassionate British Fashion’. Their philosophy is kindness, kindness to ourselves, animals and the planet.
“EACH DAY WE MAKE A CONSCIOUS CHOICE TO CREATE PHYSICAL AND MENTAL WELLNESS, PEACE OF MIND, INTEGRITY AND BEAUTY. WE ARE MINDFUL OF WHAT WE EAT, DRINK, WHAT WE WEAR, HOW WE LIVE OUR LIVES AND WHAT IMPACT EACH CHOICE WE MAKE HAS ON THIS WORLD.” - LALLA WANDAVI, 2020. Lalla Wandavi strives to “remove the expectation that people need to be a certain way” by creating fashion that “can be worn by anyone.” This brand mindset was generated by founder, Maria Laura who understood fashion was already heading towards a “a-gender” market and had a desire to become apart of shaping this movement by going beyond the male vs female market. Maria Laura (2020) expressed in an email interview, “The sub trend A-gender Agenda…plays an integral part to the business as we have moved on from the gender differentiation and want to make beautiful minimal…knitwear available to anyone, regardless the gender.” The awareness within the industry of how Millennials and Generation Z’s express themselves through their clothing coupled with the interest in looking for products that are environmentally friendly, generated an interesting insight which outlined a new space within the fashion industry called ‘green marketing’. This data supports the literature review in the sense that although the blue and pink divide still dominates certain industries, brands are beginning to understand the importance of taking a gender-neutral approach. Furthermore, this example illustrates the power the fashion industry has, to propel the genderless trend by stripping away gendered stereotypes and keep up with a modern society who no longer want to be defined by an outdated gender binary system. However, it is important to note that Lalla Wandavi’s garments are designed as typically masculine in their shape and colour. Although Maria Laura has expressed an interest in, “exploring embroidery…but I would always keep in mind the fact that it would need to be a gender-less piece of clothing.” Which suggests that although gender-neutral brands are complying with gendered stereotypes, there is a want for designers to experiment with their garments. Therefore, there may be a future in genderless fashion where feminine shapes and colours will be worn by men.
6.0. CONCLUSION In conclusion, an in-depth qualitative and quantitative study was carried out, which assisted the investigation of what has influenced perceptions of identity to change and how this affects consumer buying behaviour. As a result, the study has highlighted extensive insights into the shifting mindsets of the modern-day consumer in relation to their identity, exploring how this is shaping their gender identity and as a result, changing the fashion industry. Furthermore, the fashion industry has demonstrated a deep understanding of consumers shifting mindsets and that in order to remain relevant, brands must begin to take a more gender-neutral approach as society continues to reject gendered stereotypes. The following recommendations which will be used as a springboard for stage 2 require further investigation and analysis. This will be accomplished by exploring other primary research methods as well as additional secondary research to create a deeper understanding which will help overcome any obstacles while taking these ideas further.
7.0. RECOMMENDATIONS 7.1. FASHION EXPRESSIONISM: Insights from Chapter One identify how one’s personal identity is impacted my both individualisation and tribes which then has an affect on how that individual’s identity is formed. Furthermore, the data analysed reflects how important gender is to Millennials and Generation Z in the development of their personal and social identity. Furthermore, the findings of the data from Chapter One and Two introduced the idea that subconsciously Millennials and Generation Z still operate under the mindset of gender stereotypes. Therefore, there is evidence that supports the idea that outdated gender stereotypes are a large deciding factor in a consumer’s purchasing decision. Therefore, there is a need for a concept store which breaks down the binary gender stereotypes and allows consumers a retail space free of the fear of judgement. Allowing consumers to purchase what they desire instead of what an outdated gender binary states they should desire.
7.2. GREEN MARKETING: The insights gained from Chapter 2, specifically the case study uncovered a virtually untapped market. As the blue and pink divide continues to dominate industries, there has been a new space created as environmentally friendly products often fit a gender-neutral profile, simultaneously, meeting two of Millennials and Generation Z’s needs. This is called ‘Green Marketing’ and because of its inclusive and ethical stance, brands may adopt this method to target this specific demographic.
8.0. GANTT CHART 25th 1st 18th 4th 11th 20th 27th Dec ‘19 Jan ‘20 Nov ‘19 Nov ‘19 Dec ‘19 Dec ‘19 Dec ‘19
Theory Research and Reading Write Literature Review Send out Online Questionnaire Contact Industry Experts Plan Focus Group/ Email Interviews and gather Participants Expert Feedback Analyse Questionnaire Results Send Email Interviews and do Focus Group Analyse Results and generate insights Write Disscussion Conclusion and Recommendations Appendix, Reference List and Bibliography
22nd 8th 15th Jan ‘20 Jan ‘20 Jan ‘20