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TUSCANY ON TAP IN SPA TOWN
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REEF SPARKLES IN THE SOUTH
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STORY KERRY HEANEY | PHOTOS THINKSTOCK
IT MAY BE A TOURIST CLICHÉ, BUT STEALING A KISS FROM YOUR PARTNER AT THE EIFFEL TOWER IS STILL PART OF THE ROMANCE OF A VISIT TO THE CITY OF LOVE.
THE CROWDS ARE legendary, the lifts jampacked and the platform congested, but I still wouldn’t pass the opportunity to see Paris stretched out from this world landmark and romantic icon. So why didn’t I remember to smack a kiss on my beloved as planned when I stood on the windy walkway gazing over the City of Love? It was a momentary romantic lapse that will guarantee a return visit to this city that captures the heart like no other. A typical Paris tourist hit list will include the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, Sacre-Coeur, Arc de Triomphe and a stroll along the Champs Elysees, even if it’s only for window shopping. However, to get to know the real Paris you need to walk the streets, buy bread at a boulangerie, picnic by the Seine, and seek out the smaller museums such Musee Rodin and the Musee de l’Orangerie, where you’ll see Monet’s famous water lily murals.
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Cut to the chase and discover the Paris most people only uncover on return visits: • The centre of Paris is only a couple of kilometres wide, so rather than hop in a taxi, walk the streets and enjoy a shopping spree
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along the way. For longer distances the Metro is the way to go. • Choose a hotel that is close to the city centre rather than a cheaper alternative on the outskirts of town. Yes, it will cost you more, but you’ll save on travel time and be in the thick of it with a much-improved Paris experience. If you’re staying more than a couple of days, an apartment will usually prove more cost-effective and more spacious than Paris’ legendary little hotel rooms. • The Eiffel Tower is an ordeal, but if your heart is set on reaching the top, join a skipthe-line tour that gives you fast track access to this tourist hot spot. Many companies offer this option. • Hunt out the best macarons – the worldfamous Laduree is hard to beat, and I prefer the Saint-Germain-Des-Pres (21 rue Bonaparte) address, especially if staying on the Left Bank. Their selection of cakes is delectable and their gift store has excellent mementoes. (laduree.com/en_int/) Purchase cheese from a fromagerie and don’t forget the croissants – they really are unlike anything you’ll have had before. • A few French words and phrases, greeting shop owners with a simple bonjour, and
DEPARTURE INTERNATIONAL | TRAVEL respect for local customs, will draw more French smiles than the much exaggerated haughty glare. • Home to more than 60 Michelin-starred restaurants, there’s no shortage of good food in Paris but dining by this list can be an expensive way to travel. It can also be a challenge to find good cafés or restaurants near the major tourist attractions. Avoid tourist traps with parisbymouth.com, and their listings and tips for everything from cheese and chocolate to ice cream and coffee, by location and cuisine. Two tested recommendations: for a special occasion, La Tour d'Argent has been around since 1582, give or take a decade or two, and is famous for its duck and views of Notre Dame. The set-price menu will offer a
unique experience without a shock at the end. (latourdargent.com) Or try Bofinger in the Bastille, the haunt of politicians and performers. It, too, has a lunch special and a breathtakingly beautiful Art Deco oval cupola in the main dining room. (bofingerparis.com/en/). • Paris’s pickpockets are true professionals and there’s always a new scam on their minds. Be ultra-careful of your bag – keep it closed and in front of your body, do not flash your cash, do not follow the advice of strangers at ticket machines, and don’t let your attention to your bag lapse while you are taking photos. • If you want to stay connected while travelling in France, travel-wifi.com will keep you on the internet with up to 10
IMAGES (LEFT TO RIGHT): EIFFEL TOWER, PARIS; ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE, ARLES; MACARONS, PARIS; RODIN MUSEUM, PARIS; ROOFTOPS, ARLES; SAINT TROPHINE CHURCH, ARLES; GORDES, PROVENCE. QUEENSLAND’S LARGEST CLUB
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TRAVEL | DEPARTURE INTERNATIONAL
…it's not hard to fall in love with the beautiful city of Paris
Take the high-speed TGV train from Paris to Aix-en-Provence and explore a totally different, more relaxed side of France. Here picturesque villages wind snail-like around mountaintops and the cobbled streets of the towns are filled with history. Aix-en-Provence is a university town known for its gardens, grand squares and intellectuals. Enjoy the hilltop views from the town of Gordes as Russell Crowe did during the filming of A Good Year. The bright yellows and lavender that epitomise Provence can be found everywhere throughout the region and you’ll come home with plenty of homewares. Take a walk through history in Arles with the ruins of a Roman ampitheatre and a Romanesque
cathedral, or explore the home of the Popes from 1335 in Avignon. Follow the footsteps of famous artists, including Vincent Van Gough, Paul Cezanne, Pablo Picasso and Claude Monet, or visit picture-perfect villages such as Fontaine De Vaucluse or Saint-Paul-de-Vence, one of the oldest medieval towns in the French Riviera. You’ll find Provence a delightful experience that you will definitely want to repeat.
OFFER
DETOUR THROUGH PROVENCE
RACQ TRAVEL
devices. It’s simple to pre-order delivery to your Paris address and return via a prepaid envelope. It costs 8 euros a day. • Don’t dress like a tourist in Paris unless you really want to stand out for all the wrong reasons. That means no white runners. • Monet’s house and gardens at Giverny are an easy half-day trip from Paris and a delight for art lovers and anyone with an eye for beauty. Again, many companies offer day tours, or you can travel independently by train. • Travelling from London to Paris? Forget flying and make Rail Europe’s Eurostar your best friend to arrive in the heart of Paris at Gare du Nord. It’s not hard to fall in love with this beautiful city. You just have to open your heart and think like a local for the deal to be sealed.
Discover Southern France with APT. Enjoy the French way of life on this 21-day trip, including a 14-night luxury cruise, from $13,870pp twin share. For more details, see page 41.
IMAGES (CLOCKWISE): NOTRE DAME, PARIS; ARC DE TRIOMPHE, PARIS; VINTAGE CAROUSEL, PARIS; FOUNTAIN, AIX-EN-PROVENCE; MONET'S GARDEN, GIVERNY. 40
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