The Shophouses at Craig Road
“-this road, it changed a lot over the years,”
- Shop owner at Craig Road. Opened for business since the road and Tanjong Pagar was gazetted to conservation area in 1988.
Three storey shophouses along 15-20 Craig Road. Now, Craig Place currently located in this area (NAS)
Foreword
Introduction
Foreword
WelcometoCraigRoad!
Craig Road offers a fresh perspective and a slice of Singapore’s shophouse history in the Tanjong Pagar conservation area. Today, Craig Road is known to be one of the affluent neighbourhoods where up-and-coming companies and cafes would open their doors. But how much did Craig Road change over the years? How did the shophouses come to be?
This booklet offers a glimpse of Craig Road’s past, present, and future. Dive into its multi-faceted history and enjoy the ride, for Craig Road will offer its different faces to those willing to seek it—redefining the authenticity of shophouses with Craig Road.
Introduction
Photo of rows of shophouses in Tanjong Pagar, including Neil Road, Craig Road and Duxton Road (NAS)
What are shophouses?
One of the most notable elements of Singapore and South East Asia architecture. As indicated by the name, a shophouse is a multipurpose building which combines business on the first floor and residential on the upper floors. They are also used as the basic physical unit of any Chinatown area (Kohl, 1984). The origins of shophouses can be traced from towns and villages in Southern China, lined up with walls and signboards, creating a corridor-like streetscape.
Key elements of the shophouse (URA)
Anatomy of a Shophouse Facade
Apart from their spatial organization, shophouses are also characterized
Elements of shophouse (URA)
Getting to know URA’s conservation plan
Quality conservation is in order as part of URA’s effort to conserve Singapore’s architectural history. URA applies the 3R principle: maximum Retention, sensitive Retention, and careful Repair. These conservation efforts control the adaptive reuse of shophouses and manage the facades of shophouses. Sensitivity in retaining the original characters of these shophouses are needed to preserve their history, especially in gazetted historic districts, like Chinatown.
Legend
Conservation area
Immediate context
Shophouses study area
Chinatown
Jinrikisha Station
Duxton Hill
Bukit Pasoh
Former Craig Hill
Poh Toh Si Temple
Craig Road
This booklet studied the context and shophouses at Craig Road, specifically the shophouses between Neil Road and Yan Kit Road. Craig road is part of the Tanjong Pagar area and Chinatown historic district. Craig Road was named after Captain James Craig, an officer of the Merchant Service Guild and member of Freemason Zetland Lodge.
The immediate and greater context of the area is used to retrace the history and context of Craig Road. Immediate context includes Neil Road and Duxton Hill. The greater context is Chinatown, as the anchor to the whole district.
context of Craig Road
Immediate
Craig Place
Mondrian @ Duxton Former Chinatown Plaza
Pinnacle @ Duxton
Duxton Plains Park
Historical Timeline of Craig Road
This road underwent immense and different changes over the years that make up its history. This section will dive into the key events in history and subsequently followed by the discussion divided into centuries.
Prior to 1856
Craig Road was part of a nutmeg plantation owned by William Montgomerie.
1856
The nutmeg plantation and existing houses was sold in an auction and later divided into building lots.
1860s
Craig Road became a residential area for the poor.
Townhouses were built on nearby Duxton and Neil Road.
1890s
1903
Jinrikisha station opened at Neil Road
The time of when shophouses in Craig Road are built.
Singapore - Kranji Railway was built.
1907
1920
Tiger Balm Factory at 89 Neil Road was built.
1965
Singapore Independece led to renewed image for this area.
Period of renovations and change of owners and residents. Renovations are limited to 1988 when Tanjong Pagar was gazetted for conservation.
1988
Tanjong Pagar, including Craig Road, gazetted for Conservation area.
Modern buildings such as Craig Place and Pinnacle @ Duxton was built.
2000s onwards
Craig Road in 19th Century
Before 1856, Craig Road was part of a nutmeg plantation owned by William Montgomerie. This plantation covered much of Craig Road and Duxton Road and extended to Tanjong Pagar Road. There were two dwellinghouses in the hills of both roads.
However, in 1856, after Montgomerie’s death, the plantation and houses were auctioned off to Ker, Rawson & Co. After the auction, the land was divided into building lots, marking the start of shophouses in the area.
By the early 1980s, Chinatown was getting crowded, and the wealthier residents moved out to the fringes and built townhouses surrounding Craig Road, Duxton and Neil Road.
A newspaper article from 8th September 1856 regarding the auction for Craig Hill and Duxton Hill which became Craig Road and Duxton Road today.
Map of Singapore in 1860. Duxton and Craig Road area used to be hills and plantations. Much of the areas were unbuilt.
Map of Singapore in 1893. This map shows the shophouses in Craig Road and town houses in Duxton and Neil Road.
Why did people choose to live in Craig Road in 19th Century?
Early residents of Craig Road was working class Hokkien, as Tanjong Pagar was a gateway for wealthy Chinese and Arab traders. As this road was in the fringe of Chinatown, land was more affordable. Furthermore, on Feng Shui, this road was a good location, with Craig and Duxton Hill at the back and waterfront to Tanjong Pagar.
Craig Road in 20th Century
Many events that eventually shaped Craig Road took place in the 20th century. In the previous period, Craig Road and its surroundings became a residential area for the poor. The location was rife with crime. From the early 20th century, crimes of gambling and drinking were reported in the news. Around 1905, rickshaw pullers were reported to be living in the area. In 1903, Jinrikisha station was built on Neil Road.
Newspaper from 1900. Proof of residence association in Craig Road.
In 1903,
Newspaper from 1905. Rickshaw pullers were prominent in Craig Road with their community or fraternity.
Jinrikisha station was built, where rickshaw pullers would gather and work.
Map of Singapore in 1913. Both Craig Hill and Duxton Hill remained but much of the are are built. The black line indicates the newly built railway to Kranji.
In 1907, the Singapore - Kranji railway finished building. The tracks extended from the docks at Tanjong Pagar and to Kranji. It was running through the shophouses at Craig Road and Duxton Plain, creating noise disturbance with the residents.
However, the railway was defunct seven years later in 1914 and fully dismantled in 1925, resulting in Duxton Plains Park.
The remainder of the railway in Duxton Plains Park, today.
Craig Road in 20th Century
In 1920, Eng Aun Tong was built. Built in 89 Neil Road, this building was the first Tiger Balm factory. Around this time, Craig Road was known for crime in the area.
The former Eng Aun Tong, with Tiger Balm logo on the building. Now, it became a mixed-use building with restaurant on the first floor and office on the upper floor.
News article in 1934 and 1937. Some reports indicated many cases of raid and fights were prevalent in Craig Road.
view of 1950
by Paul
houses near to Tanjong Pagar in 1977. Rickshaws can be seen parked infront of three storey shophouses. Today, some of the houses in this area are demolished.
A photo of coffee shop in Craig Road in 1984. According to interviews some of illegal activities were done behind the coffee shops at the time.
Aerial
Photo
Piollet of Craig Road
Craig Road in 20th Century
With Singapore Independence in 1965, renewed image for this area was created. Around 1976 to 1980, Tanjong Pagar Plaza was built, and marked the start of urban redevelopments in this area. The plaza offered amenities to the residents. In 1988, Tanjong Pagar area, including Craig Road, was gazetted as conservation area.
Tanjong Pagar Plaza in the late 1970s. The first high-rise government-funded development in the are and in high contrast with the shophouses in the surroundings.
News on shophouses in Craig Road becoming part of the Tanjong Pagar conservation area.
A few examples of shophouse renovations in the early 20th century before conservation.
developments.
Road, only some shophouses are left today.
and
Why did people choose to live on Craig Road in the 20th Century?
Unlike previous reasons for initial residents like Feng Shui considerations, this period of Craig Road underwent immense development. From Jinrikisha station and Singapore-Kranji Railway, Tiger Balm factory opening, residents, especially the working class, are more open to the opportunities this road offers. However, due to the area’s noise, crime and poverty, Craig Road was not prime real estate. Rickshaw pullers from Hui’an in Fujian province would set their territories on the street. The residents in this period were workers for the factory, providing cheap labour nearby.
Map of Singapore in 1950. This photo showcases the shophouses in Craig Road prior to demolition due to urban
Between Neil Road
Yan Kit
Craig Road in 21st Century
After its designation as a conservation area and massive urban redevelopment, Craig Road surely evolved into a more affluent neighbourhood compared to its past.
The decimation of shophouses in the area is done to build modern buildings. In 2003, Craig Place, an apartment block, was built at 15-20 Craig Road, which used to be blocks of shophouses. In 2005, Pinnacle @ Duxton was built, for previously, it was rental HDB blocks. This period showcases the growth and upgrade of Craig Road.
Current conditions of Craig Place, located in 15-20 Craig Road. This building adopted the building envelope guideline that complements the shophouses infront. The walkway in Craig Place shares a similarity with five-foot walkway of shophouses.
Pinnacle @ Duxton, first HDB blocks using bridges, stands high in constrast to the surrounding shophouses in Tanjong Pagar and Bukit Pasoh area.
Why do people choose to live on Craig Road in the 21st Century?
Since the late 1990s, Craig Road has undergone massive uplifts, but it jeopardised the shop owners’ rental prices. With the renewal of Craig Place and the new HDB in Pinnacle @ Duxton, Craig Road became a more affluent residential place, which is located close to the Central Business District in the central area. Proximity to offices and Craig Road’s location made it prime for offices. This pull factor narrated the changes in this Century for a new generation of the working class.
Craig Road in 22nd Century
Today, much of Craig Road is restaurants and offices for up-and-coming businesses. Some of the shophouse’s details are moving away from their authentic form. The question is, will the shophouses, the pieces of history in Craig Road, persevere with further and higher development?
Current conditions at the hill of Craig Road.
Current master plan 2019 shows the land uses of shophouses in Craig Road to commercial.
New upcoming development of Mondrian @ Duxton. With more developments in the future, what will become of the shophouse in Craig Road?
Craig Road in Master Plan 2019
The Shophouses at Craig Road
Due to conservation, shophouses are frozen in time. Their facade may change, but the structure will show their true nature. Shophouses at Craig Road underwent renovations and a change of hand of owners, and the current style is a testament to those transitions.
Craig Road Shophouse Viewing tip!
To best view the different facades and ages of shophouses, viewers can stand infront of Craig Place.
Place
Craig
Categorizing shophouses
Defining dan differentiating shophouse style is part of URA’s conservation analysis. However, we found notable differences and how the shophouses now are frozen in between transitions.
URA’’s shophouse typology
Redefining shophouses typology
URA’s Typology
First Transitional Shophouse Style
Renewed Typology
Chinese Style Shophouse
Second Chinese Style Shophouse Late Shophouse Style Transitional Shophouse Style Late Shophouse Style
This study found that many of the shophouses in Craig Road are products of time and renovation, creating an “in-betweeners” of URA’s current typology. This study proposes a new typology expanded on URA’s typology to indicate time built, architectural context, value and observation.
Further explanations of renewed typologies will be conducted systematically. Every block number is explained together, indicating the same original builders. Shophouses using the same style can have different original builders.
Second Transitional Shophouse Style
Shophouse Style
Story of the remaining block
The blocks today only offer a glimpse of what once was. As mentioned, Craig Road used to be a vibrant residential block, regardless of its problems. Retracing history through the remaining architectural features is a way to form the bigger picture.
Craig Road in 1893
Craig Road in 1950s. Line marked in orange are the only shophouses left in Craig Road.
Retracing the pioneers
Within the limited documentation and on-site observation, these blocks (marked with blue) can be perceived as the starting point and traces of the first shophouse types residing on Craig Road. Further out, the shophouses modernize and evolve to new styles.
First Typology
Chinese Style
no. 47- 49
These are two-storey shophouses on the five-foot walkway, which suggests it was previously an Early Shophouse style and subsequently renovated to update techniques following the First Transitional Shophouse style or Chinese style.
The structures indicate a transition from timber to plaster construction. This showcased the construction change in the early days, suggesting it was initially built in the early 19th century. Aside from renovation, most of the ornamentation is minimal, meaning it was a simpler style adopted by former residents without much attention to aesthetics and minimal cost.
The continuity of the structures suggests the same building, architect and year.
Facade of Chinese Style shophouse in Craig Road
First Typology | Chinese Style
This style uses timber shutter windows and Chinese ornaments at the bottom of the windows. Compared to other shophouses, this shape suggests painting underneath. But, in Craig Road’s context, the addition of this ornament can be credited to the myriad of past owners’ desire to adopt a certain style with minimal cost, thus resulting in these shapes.
Corbels acts as brackets to support the beams. This suggest using granite corbel or plaster corbel which retains its shape.
Vents for air ventilation, usually found in Early Shophouse Style (URA).
Timber and plaster structure suggests transition of construction methods.
Terracota Tiled Flooring are used all through out Craig Road. This flooring is typically found in Early Shophouse Style.
to no. 47,
Entrance
former Travel Agency used metal sliding doors, suggests a mix of styles over the years (NAS, 1984)
45- 46
These two-storey shophouses share similar facade elements with the other blocks. However, the structure suggests these two blocks’ different age or craftmanship. Both corbels and beams in the walkway use wood and plaster—however, the quality is different from the surroundings, indicating the age difference of these blocks.
Rough made quality of the wooden beams and plaster corbel, suggests this was a Early shophouse style, preceeding no. 47-49.
no.
First Typology | Chinese Style
The shophouse now functions as a free clinic and shares the same facade elements as the other Chinese-style shophouses. However, the structure and beams in the walkway suggest different craftsmanship. The made quality is neat, compared to adjacent blocks, but also adopts the simple corbel style. This can indicate the shophouse renovation history.
Different made quality and width of beams. The use of simple corbel suggests older age or unrenovated structure.
Shophouse no. 45-44 in Craig Road
First Typology | Chinese Style
no. 40- 43
Different from previous shophouses, no.40-43 shared other facade elements. These two-storey shophouses used arches in the five-foot walkway, showcasing a likeness to early shophouse style. The structure is still in between plaster and wood construction. However, made quality is more consistent. The continuity of the structures suggests the same building, architect and year. Nevertheless, no. 43 shared a different structure, suggesting renovation.
Facade of another version of Chinese Style shophouse in Craig Road
Structure of no.40-42. Clear combination of wooden beams and plaster for the arches. Corbel are less well formed.
Structure of no.43, use of plaster and concrete suggest heavy renovation or different made. Different structural systems from adjacent shophouses.
Second Typology
Transitional Style
no. 41- 52
Moving forward to Transitional Style, which shares similarities to URA’s First Transitional Shophouse Style in the early 1900s. These blocks are three-storey shophouses with arches and high ceilings in the walkway. The structures predominantly used plaster as the main element. Corbel and beams used plaster. Additionally, this transitional style uses timber shutters similar to the previous style.
Facade of Transitional Style shophouse in Craig Road
URA’s Shophouse
Typology
First Transitional Shophouse Style
Early 1900s
Back view of the shophouse no. 51, facing Duxton Plains Park.
Closed airway for the shophouse. The inside of no.51 significantly changed to fit the current use.
Second Typology | Transitional Style
Ornaments of flowers and leaves, however has aged from time. Might indicate uses of chien nien technique or cut and paste to create multifaceted surface.
Modernized timber windows and doors but still follows the division of three bays in shophouses.
Chinese Glazed Roof Tiles for the canopy roof. Different from the actual roof tile. Green glazed stoppers and end pieces for better rainwater flow.
Green glazed air bricks for ventilation Found in the back side of the shophouses, each building have different treatments.
A stucco panel bearing auspicious words in relief. In this building it uses green ceramics to further accentuate the carvings.
Structure of no.52. Clear combination of wooden beams and plaster for the arches. Corbel are less articulated.
Rare glimpse of original stairway of shophouses, found in no.51, now an antique store.
Shophouses are divided into three bays. In modern usage, the door for stairways are divided to allow access for multiple tenants.
Third Typology
Late Shophouse Style
no. 53-1
This three-storey shophouse is starkly different from its neighbours. The facade showcases a highly ornamented and articulate late shophouse style which dates back to the early 1900s. Compared to the walkway of other shophouses, the ceilings in this block are high and disconnected from the block next to it (no. 52) Due to the street structure, it’s suggested that the building was part of a larger block; however, the side windows suggested otherwise.
no. 53-1 Late Shophouse Style in Craig Road
Side view of the block.
URA’s Shophouse Typology
Late Shophouse Style
Early 1900-1940
Back view of the shophouse. Much of the timber doors are retained, together with glazed air bricks.
Special Typology 1
Spillover Townhouse
no. 38- 39
Although the majority of buildings on Craig Road are categorized as shophouses and are used for commercial land uses, these two blocks share similarities to townhouses than shophouses. These three-storey buildings shared a different setback than their neighbours, and the five-foot walkway, usually part of the building, is outside the fence. In the shophouse facade, these blocks qualify as Late Shophouse style. These are the only buildings on this road with these features. The author can speculate that this is one of the remaining townhouses spillovers from the wealthy boom in Duxton and Neil Road in the 1890s. Due to the subsequent development, such as the Tiger Balm factory and noisy railways, the original residents moved away. This building turned into a house for newer residents or businesses.
no. 38-39 in Craig Road, now functions as a restaurant.
URA’s Shophouse
A close up of the townhouse fence. Western ornamentation of swag and ribbons, combined with Malay fretted eaves.
Typology
Second Transitional Style Fourth
no. 50, 36-37
The second Transitional style adopts a simpler and streamlined design compared to its predecessor in the Late shophouse style.
In Craig Road, this style differs from each other. None of these buildings with this style shares the same structure system. The structure is predominantly plaster-covered with simple and clean lines. Wooden beam act as an accent element rather than a structural element.
Different structural systems in no. 36-37 indicating different made and designs.
Facade of Second Transitional Style shophouse in Craig Road
URA’s Shophouse
Second Transitional Shophouse Style
Late 1930s
Details of cornices and friezes showcase remnants of the previous period of the Late Shophouse style. The friezes’ details are more understated.
Much of the details of more recent styles indicate renovation and change of owners, creating a variation of shophouses from initial Chinese styles.
Modern Factory Style
no.89
This three-storey building used to function as Tiger Balm Factory also called Tiger Balm Medical Hall (Eng Aun Tong). This building would qualify as a Modern shophouse through URA’s typology even though it was built much earlier, in 1920. The initial designers used the modern style because of its factory use but also adopted shophouse features of walkways and ornaments. However, with further observation, this seemingly modern building also adopts the Late Shophouse style through western decorations, which was a trend when it was built. This building also used fretted eaves, showcasing Malay influences.
Modern Factory Style shophouse in Craig Road
URA’s Shophouse Typology
Modern Shophouse Style
1950-1960
Advertisement poster for Eng Aun Tong, Tiger Balm Medical Hall.
Tiger Balm was produced in this factory for more than 50 years.
A close up of the modern style windows. Over the years the colors has changed due to the change of tenants.
The structure of arches and columns, indicating a Neoclassical influence on the architecture of the building.
Five-foot way at Craig Road
The five-foot walkway at Craig Road offers a unique experience. Viewers will encounter and meet the different spaces and transitions as if taking a stroll through time. With an average walkway width of 200-210cm, viewers will experience a comfortable walk on top of terracotta tiles. Some parts of the five-foot walkway are stylized using arches and use differing heights. The five-foot way offers a resemblance to the friendliness of former residents.
Disconnected walkway
Connected walkway (with steps)
Uncovered walkway
What makes an authentic Craig Road shophouse?
The shophouses in Craig Road rapidly evolve from being part of a poor crime-ridden neighbourhood to up-and-coming central area work and cafe neighbourhood. This area underwent many changes that retained its original architectural character but also diluted it. Now the essence of this area is a mix of transitions. Craig Road has less of a Chinese shophouse neighbourhood but is more modern and understated, with the Chinese architecture features less pronounced.
Rather than keeping authenticity as the essence, the Shophouses at Craig Road are a testament to the area’s history and embed all the different values of different eras it went through.
The conservation in Craig Road displays conservation of shophouses doesn’t stop at authentic aesthetics. It conserves and values history and changes.
Acknowledgements
The author would like to thank Prof. Chen Yu for her guidance and feedback, which has been a great help in building and piecing the history of Craig Road. The author would also like to thank the peers in AR5958B for the ever inspiring presentations and insights to build this assignment. The author would like to thank the antique shop owner for the insights to the history of Craig Road. Hopefully with this study, knowledge of Craig Road will be able to enrichen the conservation history of Singapore shophouses.
References
Books
Davison, J., & Invernizzi, L. (2010). Singapore shophouse. Talisman. Kohl, D. G. (1984). Chinese Architecture in the Straits Settlements and Western Malaya: Temples, Kongsis and Houses. Heinemann Asia.
Lee, H. Y. (2003). The Singapore shophouse: an Anglo-Chinese urban vernacular. Asia’s Old Dwellings: Tradition, Resilience and Change.
Websites
https://talearchitects.com.sg/portfolio/no-4-craig-road/ https://www.thesgshophouse.com/history-of-shophouses-in-singapore/ https://www.ura.gov.sg/Corporate/Guidelines/Conservation/Conserva https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/entertainment/chinatown-heritage-history-sago-lane-keong-saik-road-216006
https://www.roots.gov.sg/stories-landing/stories/singapore-shophouses/ story
https://chinatown.sg/tanjong-pagar/
https://chinatown.sg/history-of-chinatown/ https://biblioasia.nlb.gov.sg/vol-11/issue-3/oct-dec-2015/coolies
https://eresources.nlb.gov.sg/newspapers/
https://www.nas.gov.sg/archivesonline/
https://libmaps.nus.edu.sg/
https://www.ricemedia.co/current-affairs-features-tiger-balm-rise-fall/
References
Reports
Urban Redevelopment Authority. (2022). Your Shophouse: Do It Right
Our Shared Heritage: A Quick Guide for Owners and Tenants. https:// www.ura.gov.sg/-/media/Corporate/Guidelines/Conservation/YourShophouseDoItRightMay2022.pdf
Urban Redevelopment Authority. (2019). Urban Redevelopment Authority. https://www.ura.gov.sg/Corporate/Guidelines/Conservation/Conservation-Guidelines/Part-1-Overview/Understanding-The-Shophouse
Keshia Simatupang
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