MAGAZINE
ISSUE
2
IS SU
E
PARTY Cover Page: Model by Orsika for SO Management Photography by Valentina Lupo
LET’S DANCE BABY!
Creative Director:
Pavli Medvedova
Art Director:
Nicholas Cutajar
Editor:
Shideh Olafsson
Written Contributors:
Teodora Stojanovic / Maria Michela Formosa / Raissa Tabone / Alexia Fenech / Stephanie Lauri / Chanel Camilleri
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Send your details to me@pavlistyle.com
SERIOUSLY STYLISH SH*T
Stella McCartney slub twill blazer net-a-porter.com
Domination of yellow in all hues Total colour look for risk-takers
Lanvin quilted leather pouch mytheresa.com
Victoria by VB
Designer Inspiration: Hermes, Peter Som, Derek Lam, Viktor & Rolf
Miu Miu textured leather shoulder bag mytheresa.com
Roksanda Ilincic Jil Sander
Vikor & Rolf
Sonia Rykiel
Solid coloured garments and accessories in vibrant jewel tones continue to rule
Akris
o t s i s our l o c d bol ite e h t w a r r o o p ck cor a n l i b o s t h a ay c w u s e f s a S sic a b DKNY h t i w e them r Christian
Dio
Venessa Arizaga Salty Lime silver-plated diamante bib necklace net-a-porter.com
Missoni Alberta
Ferretti
Carven
u Jason W
ht g i r b ss ith a w r t y s r e d an s l Jewell a t s cry d e r u colo ASOS neon bead and rhinestone drop earrings asos.com
Hermes
Jenny Packham
Colours are all the rage!
Brian Atwood ALIMA neon patent-leather pumps net-a-porter.com
Jason Wgeru messen trimmed patent- tote lneeat-tah-perorter.com
Designer Inspirations: Alexander Wang Marc Jacobs Peter Pilotto Isabel Marant
GAMEIS NOTOVER YET
ASOS ‘Pump It Up’s asos.cowmeat band
s
line k c e n t n acer-fro
th r i w s e s s re Fitted d N eon det ails
Hermes
Isabel Marant Willow suede sneakers mythere sa.c om
Akris
h t i w p o t S ASOtex and Air urblock colo
Marc Jacobs
om
asos.c
Elasti c elasti waists on s c cuff k s on t irts and s horts, rouser s
Hermes
Michael Kors stretch wool-crepe racener-t-a-baporckte dress r.com
ASOS Sporty Parka
asos.com
e l y t s Scuba s r e p p i z c i t s pla ASOS bodityh-czoipn dress w front
asos.com
Isabel Marant
Victoria Beckham
Alexander Wang
e n o t Two Dries van Noten
Rag & Bone
Alexander Wang Modern silhouettes inspired by the Olympics fever
Phillip Lim
Isabel Marant
Victoria Beckham
PRINTS PICK ‘N’ MIX Designer Inspiration:
Prada, Celine, Proenza Schouler, Christopher Kane
Peter Pilotto
Clashing prints worn together
Oscar De La Renta 24 carat gold-plated crystal bug brooch net-a-porter.com
Marni Edition silk print dress net-a-porter.com
Marni rosette acetate clip earrings net-a-porter.com
Stripes, florals, polka dots, ikat, batik, Tie-Dye worn together
River Island pink multicoloured stripe cardigan riverisland.com
DKNY
Clashing colours MANGO flower shift dress mango.com
MANGO ethnic print cotton foulard mango.com
Digital prints River Island orange multi-coloured print caged wedges riverisland.com
Alberta Ferretti
Alexander Wang
No
Thakoon
Dries van Noten
Roksanda Ilincic Thakoon
Mirror images
rules in
mix and match Carven
PASTEL IS THE NEW BLACK Designer Inspiration:
Erdem, Nina Ricci, Diane von Furstenberg, Luis Vuitton
Jason Wu
PASTE IS TH Lace details NEW BLAC Galliano
Headbands and other hair accessories Lanvin
Candy colours
Miu Miu plexi-glass crystal necklace mytheresa.com
ASOS squiggle heart stud earrings asos.com
Miu Miu suede shoulder bag net-a-porter.com
Erdem
Jenny Packham
Louis Vuitton
ailoring in oft colours
Midi length skirts and dresses Ralph Lauren
Louis Vuitton
Victor & Rolf
The umbrella style skirt
ASOS blouse with pleating and lace yoke asos.com
Em
be
llis
Victoria Beckham
he
d
co
lla
rs
ASOS denim boiler-suit with stripe detail asos.com
PYJAMA PARTY
Designer Inspiration: Paul Smith, Stella McCartney, Lanvin, 3.1 Phillip Lim
ZARA pointed sling-backs with contrast heel zara.com
ZARA polka dot printed blouse zara.com
ZARA thin strap sandals zara.com
The Row ASOS
SHORE striped cotton shirt net-a-porter.com
MACEY mesh detail shoes with laces asos.com
MANGO Touch leather messenger bag mango.com Joseph Queen checked wool-blend pants net-a-porter.com
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney
Akris
Jonathan Saunders
20
S
REVISITED Designer inspiration: Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Etro, Alberta Ferretti
Christian Dior
Flapper dresses
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
ASOS
vintage look round dial watch asos.com
MANGO
art deco earrings asos.com
Vintage jewellery
Lanvin
crystal embellished satin clutch net-a-porter.com
Art-deco designs Gucci
Etro
Jonathan Sanders
RED Valentino
te r,
sh
imm
er
a nd
sh
in e
two-tone patent leather pumps net-a-porter.com
Gl
white embellished tassel vest top riverisland.com
it
River Island
Salvatore Ferragamo
EDITH crystal and suede box clutch mytheresa.com
Marc Jacobs
Dropwaist dresses
Peplums Zara
embroidered tulle skirt zara.com
Tassels Temperley
ESMERALDA short sleeve lace dress mytheresa.com
Designer Inspiration:
Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Alexander Mc Queen
CHANEL
UNDERWATER LOVE
ASOS Limited Edition Pack of 3 Pearl Stretch Bracelets asos.com
Pearl tones
Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani
colours
Aqua
ASOS glitter pastel stone stud earrings asos.com
Vivienne Westwood Gold Label long Savannah sequined net gown net-a-porter.com
Iridescent fabrics ASOS
Yves Saint Laurent
PASSION platform peep-toe court shoes asos.com
RIVIERA star-fish print canvas wedge sandals net-a-porter.com
Mary Katrantzou Anya Hindmarch VALORIE glitter finish leather clutch net-a-porter.com
multicolor print three-quarter sleeve silk dress stylebop.com
Marc Jacobs
Haider Ackermann
Silky, draped fabrics
Zara skirt with leather pailettes zara.com
Soft hues
Zara top with sequins zara.com
Beyond the Outfit Jonathan Saunders: The Scottish fashion designer who took over the world.
Jonathan Saunders, the 35-year old designer is known for his creative clothing. His experimenting with different prints and the use of traditional silk screening is more than evident in his collections. After graduating from Glasgow’s School of Art and attaining an M.A. at Central Saint Martin’s College in 2002, Saunders swept the fashion world off its feet. It all started with his graduate collection which featured a series of brightly printed chiffon kaftans inspired by the Beatles’ Yellow Submarine album cover. This collection subsequently won him the 2002 Lancôme Colour Award. His success was yet to flourish even more, though. In 2003, he debuted his first entire collection at London Fashion Week. After this, he continued to show regularly at LFW until 2008 when he decided to take his collection to New York Fashion Week in a move he described as ‘a natural progression’. He returned to LFW two years later.
Up till now, three main events highlighted his career:
2004:
One of his Spring/Summer 2004 dresses made it to the cover page of British Vogue
2005:
He won the Scottish Fashion Designer of the Year at Scottish Style Awards
2008:
He won the British Designer of the Year at Elle Style Awards Besides having his own label, Saunders is the creative director of Milanbased fashion house Pollini. He also designed ranges for retail chains Target and Topshop.
Jason Wu:
a Manhattan-based Taiwanese American fashion designer who started his fashion career in a rather odd manner.
After moving to Canada at the age of 9, Wu learned how to sew by designing and sewing for dolls. At 16 he started creating freelance doll clothing designs for toy company Integrity Toys, of course under the lines of Jason Wu Dolls. Wu, ultimately became creative director of this company.
He did not just abandon education, however. Whilst at high school, he decided he wanted something more than just doll clothing – he wanted to become a fashion designer. Thus, he continued his studies at Parsons New School for Design. After interning with Narciso Rodriguez, and getting the know-how of what it takes to be a fashion designer, he started his readyto-wear line of clothes with the earnings from his years of doll designs. In fact, in 2006 at just 24, he debuted his first full collection. Two years after, he won the Fashion Group International’s Rising Star Award. From then, he quickly became a favourite among the downtown starlets. His trademark is clean, classic lines incorporating bright colours and prints without being too flashy. The end result being modern and wearable but at the same time noteworthy. One can just take a look at the famous white, one shoulder, silk chiffon and Swarovski crystal gown or as is better known Michelle Obama’s inaugural ball appearance dress. It is simply marvellous!
READY TO
Jaeger London Roomy tunic dresses and black cocktail dresses encased the models into the romantic era of the seventies. Also, nursery school dresses with softly pleated hemlines produce an innocent feeling. The S/S was a collection for “the playground of British rock stars and royalty�.
Mark Fast Fast is a designer who is all about knit and that is what marked the opening of the show. His collection was inspired by desert mirages and tropical exoticism. In fact, the colour palette of the show produced a mixture of sand tones in desert landscapes moving into gold.
MILAN Moschino It comes as no surprise that Moschino’s S/S collection featured bicorn hats, a Stetson, cropped black and fringed leather jackets. Creative designer Rossela Jardini also threw in a Wild West concept in the show in quite a fun way with gold-shot black and printed dresses. Fun and wearable!
In her latest S/S, Alberta Ferretti offered pleasure to the eyes of the on-lookers. Her clothing featured cocktail dresses with panels of sheer nude fabric interspersing juicy
MILAN
Alberta Ferretti jewel colours of emerald, saffron, fuchsia and coral. It really seemed as if the colours themselves were tattooed onto the body in geometric markings.
New York:
Jason Wu
Sharply articulated waistlines with rippling peplums and full skirts. His buttoned up blouses were mixed with crafter print pants making the outfit seem like a work of art of a re-known artist.
Rodarte S/S collection creates New nostalgia for the countryside York with yellow sunflower fabric. Printed on undulating, flowing fabric in silk and chiffons, the floral designs make us immediately think of Van Gogh’s sunflower paintings. Halfway through the collection the bright yellow fabric started blending into green and finally in purple and black underlining another of Van Gogh’s paintings known as ‘Starry Night’. The final creations brought another nostalgia; that of childhood and the Disney fairytales we so loved.
Rodarte
Chloe
Crisp white collarless blouses, translucent chiffon dresses – all creating innocence and elegant feeling. The first look of the show featured a tan chiffon dress which fanned in pleats and which was definitely an eye-catcher.
Paris
Viktor
& Rolf
Girly and doll like underlined this Dutch duo’s S/S collection. The use of coral and black silk made the models look like porcelain dolls. They featured an aspect of party-fun in their feminine dresses.
INTERVIEW with PAVLI
MEDVEDOVA by Teodora Stojanovic
Runway is a bi-annual event held in Malta to celebrate all that is international fashion. Held in March and September of every year, along with the seasonal changes in the fashion world, Runway brings over between 3 and 5 international designers and showcases them to a Maltese audience. Set amongst the very Maltese setting of Montekristo Estates, the auditorium and exhibition halls are transformed to resemble an international fashion week for just one day. With hourly seated shows, designers are invited from all over the globe to participate in this full evening event. We spoke with head stylist, Pavli Medvedova, about what’s it’s really like behind the scenes of such an interesting and varied event.
ME: When did you find out that Runway will happen again and when were you asked to once again be the official stylist for the event? PAVLI: Last year’s Runway was a success, an awesome experience for me. There were talks and whispers for the rest of the year that something similar will take place for S/S 2012 season. But everything was hanging in the air, nothing was for sure. Especially when the official organiser moved to Spain. I found out, at the beginning of February, but started panicking two weeks prior to the event. When I actually got all the e-mails with who and what will be coming, what they will be showcasing and which shoes they wanted for their collections.
ME: Shoes? PAVLI: Oh yes! Basically, designers sent me a photo of a shoe they want and by whichever means possible I had to find the very similar shoe here in Malta. But you know how this already could be a problem. Going into a shoe shop, asking them to loan me shoes for two days. Usually the answer is, ‘we don’t have I had to pull the enough sizes of the style you need’, ‘it’s a shoe out of my a**” recession, we can not afford 2 days’. It can be a nightmare. Yet I managed to find all I needed, hopefully, something that designers will say ‘yes’ to. So I took pictures of a shoe, sent it to them and prey they would love it. However, this is not always the case: On Friday, a day before the show, the models and I were meeting with the designers for the fittings. One of the designers, Marius Op t’ Eynde from Belgium, didn’t like the shoe I picked for his collection. So at 3pm on a Friday I had to pull the shoe out of my a**. Thank God for Luke Engerer and French Connection! They saved me!
ME: Did you meet the designers for the first time at the fittings? What happens there? PAVLI: Actually I met the designers a night before at the welcome drinks. But yes, designers meet the models for the first time. We see the collections for the first time, and designers choose which girl will be wearing what, so we try it out. I got scared when I saw William Wilde’s collection (it is all completely made out of rubber!) and especially when the model took over 14 minutes to get into a dress. For the show, changes have to be done in under 30 seconds. Then William looked at me and told me to run out and buy some lube. Yes, LUBE, the kind people use for condoms! Apparently, this is the easiest way to get the rubber onto the body due to sweat and general human skin conditions. After stress-realise laughter I did go to a pharmacy. No shame! Not going to talk about the judgmental looks a pharmacist gave me when I asked to purchase 6 bottles of lube but just gonna say, ‘mission accomplished’. Pavli got some strawberry flavoured lube for the models. Class! Apart from that, the fittings went as smooth as they can go.
MISSION ACCOMPLI SHED
!
ME: So let’s say today is
Runway. Where are you? What time did you have to be there and what goes on? PAVLI: Yeah, I had to be there at 11am to organise everything and everybody. I had 6 helpers. We had to set up the stations. Each helper had two girls and two boys. Their job was to know who their models were, what they were wearing, which shoes, how many changes there were in each show and all the accessories their models were wearing. Prepare everything. Steam the clothes, tape the shoes. Hang the name tags and everything fast!
ME: Tape the shoes? PAVLI: Oh yes! One of the most ridiculous tasks that must be done. We have to put tape on the sole of the shoe so they won’t get damaged. Take the tape off before a model goes onto the runway and put the tape back. Yep! But it must be done. Steaming and ironing as well takes some time. But the best was Marius, again. He was special. I adored how into it he was, but he didn’t let us even touch his collection. It was, well, different. His show was scheduled at 8pm. At round 4pm while I was getting things ready for the first show, steaming the clothes and being called by a hundred different people, he came up to me, asking me to give him the steamer so he could steam his collection. My mouth was wide open, couldn’t even tell him anything. His show is at 8pm, 3 designers before him and he wants it now?! I just have to give it to him. When I was done with whatever I was doing, I went to check up on him. There was his rail, his babies hanging. I asked him if he needed any help getting the clothes ready for the show. “No, we will manage” was his answer. I decided not to ask anymore questions.
Pavli rules!
ME: Wow! Do all designers have weird demands and are as special as Marius? PAVLI: Oh, no! He is what he is, but very interesting to look at him taking care of his collection and being as involved in the whole process. That is fascinating to me. Mainly, the designers are very nice. Especially, the young designers, they are so excited and into everything that is going on. Or for example, Turet Knuefermann from New Zealand was just the sweetest. She trusted me completely with her collection and let me do my job. Just going around and thanking us. It was a pleasure working with her. William Wilde is sweet too. Him and his lube. (smile)
e m d e t s u She tr th i w y l e t e compl d n a n o i t ec her coll job. y m o d e let m
ME: Ok, so what goes on just before the show and during? PAVLI: Craziness, euphoria, panic, loads of stress, but a happy stress. The kind of stress that when the show is over you miss it. Fun Stress. The designers tell the models how they want them to walk and wear their collection. Me and my helpers help them dress up, change and all this in few seconds. The hair team do final touches as the models are getting dressed and the make up team are doing final touches on lipstick and eyeliner etc. Each model has around 6 pairs of hands on him/her while the show is going on. And the show director, Shideh Olafsson, is calling out names who are due to go onto the catwalk – so it’s complete madness back there while they are so calm and composed on the catwalk. Pretty amazing really. As I am experienced now with backstage mayhem, I managed to help everyone, be everywhere and even get a peek at the direction screen (the screen Shideh uses to time the models) we have at the back. Designers just check the models before they get on the runway. Check if everything is on its place and how it is supposed to be. Everything is fast, one doesn’t have time to think much. We put chairs into the stations so when models change we just throw the previous outfit over it. There is no time to fold it or hang it nicely. For Wiliam’s show especially. There was a lot of accessories, all the belts, bows, earrings, and paper that went in the dresses. Mind you, dresses were made from rubber! But thankfully, he told us not to worry. It is hectic but pure fun too.
ME: Which show did you enjoy the most? PAVLI: All of them. I just love it, every single second of every show. But the show I enjoyed the most, was Marius’. As he didn’t let us touch or breathe near his garments. I had the opportunity to sit down, catch my breath and watch the show.
ME: This year, Runway offered a pretty cool competition, right? New designers were given the chance to compete and win a show at Holland’s Fashionclash in June. What did you think of the winner? PAVLI: I was surprised. Didn’t have much time to think of it at the time, but now I am very pleased. Branko Popovic (Fashionclash director) said ‘The main reason we chose Geneva was because of her potential. We, judges, have no clue what we can expect from her for the next show. Not even a slightest idea. And that is why.’ I agree.This Runway was a complete success. Parking was a problem, loads more attendance compared to the previous. The show-room was packed. Live Calvin Klein photoshoot in the lobby. And the band, Dolls For Idols, at the end rounded off the whole experience. What do you think? PAVLI: Definitely. Previous Runway was a baby, it was a first time thing. But this one was just what it had to be. I am so glad I had the opportunity to again be part of it. And oh, yes! There was over 400 people at one point. It was gorgeous to see the (show-room) packed. The organisation was just perfect! I really don’t know how she (Shideh Olafsson) managed it all, and from Spain! I am so happy, its overwhelming. When Shideh suggested we take a group photo at the end, I almost cried out of happiness. That was one of the best days of my life. I could do it the whole day, every day. ME: Is there going to be a next Runway? PAVLI: Of course! It is going to be every six months. It is going to be a seasonal event. And each season, it is going to be better and better. We are definitely doing something good here, putting Malta on a Fashion map. Getting designers to visit, to educate us, to showcase what they believe in. I am super excited to be part of it all. A pleasure of meeting the designers and working with the models. I would like to thank my girls backstage and all shoes sponsors - NEW LOOK and FRENCH CONNECTION. Can’t wait for the next one!
Already excited!
To see a video of Runway Spring/Summer event, go to www.runwaymalta.com and watch the shows!
Interview with Designer Bo Carter by Bon Ton Fashionista
1.
Please say something about yourself in brief eg: where do you live, hobbies etc? I am Bozena, known as Bo and I am the owner of the brand Bo Carter. I was born in Poland and moved to UK in 2001. I am married and have three cats. My hobby became my work one and half years ago, up to that point I was an accountant with a lost soul. I discovered I love fashion to an extreme level and that’s how I become a fashion designer, or as I like to call myself
‘The creator of clothes’.
2. When did your love for fashion start? did you have someone to look up to? Eg mum, teacher? I was born in Poland in days where we didn’t have much. Communism and post communism days didn’t offer much but empty shelves that taught me how to have fun with as little as possible. I was in love with my paper dolls since an early age, I was creating their worlds and mostly important their clothes. My mum is a trained tailor but I never thought I would follow her plus she wasn’t doing this as a job, more like a hobby and now and again she would do some adjustment for friends and family. In school I wanted to be a stock broker (no idea why!) then I wanted to be an actress but I always loved clothes and always tried to wear something different. After becoming an accountant I knew it wasn’t my destination and it was in 2010 and Leeds Fashion Show who has brought shine to my life.
3.
How would you describe your personal style? When I’m at home I am addicted to pyjamas, so I am not very stylish when hidden in my own place. I love mixing styles and always try to wear things which ‘shouldn’t ‘ be worn together. I love wearing PVC and what I create is what I love to wear.
4.
What was the first ever garment that you created? A Black and Yellow jacket. It was my first garment I had design in my head and it took me long to find the correct fabric, at the end I had to hand dye it but it was worth it. I still love this jacket so much and I am bringing it back in my new AW 2012/13 collection.
5. What inspires your clothing
designs? How would you describe your creations? I get inspired by the world and my dreams. When I designed my first collection I never knew I was going to carry on with that as I didn’t think it was possible to keep designing and coming up with new ideas! However now I can’t stop designing and I can’t make the clothes fast enough. I think once you started that’s it, it is like walking, you never realised that at one point you had to learn to do it. I love the Victorian style, the big dresses, the shapes of clothes and I love the Punk look and the PVC. I am mad on PVC.
6. Which are your most
fav pieces you’ve done so far? The Black and Yellow jacket I mentioned before. My red flower and PVC dress and so many in my new SS collection. I love them all! Althought the SS collection doesn’t have very bright coloured pieces there are still so many pieces I love and own.
7. If you could dress one celebrity with one of your creations who would it be? why? This is a tricky one, because there are lots of celebrity who I loved their style for a long time and I would love them to wear my clothes. On other hand there are Stars who I would like to dress as I think they got bad taste and I would love to change their style. I adore Gwen Stefani I just love her style and I would totally love it if she would one day like to wear my frock. Uma Thurman is cool too...but I just love dressing up every day people. Plus I am not very good with following the celebrities’ world.
8.
What is the most important outfit piece a woman should own? The one she loves and make her feels like she is the most important lady in the whole world. I think that it will depend on the individual. But I think a woman shold own a pair of sparkly yet comfy heels; a long skirt which will make her feel like a queen; a plain top; and warm pyjamas (of course!).
9.
What have been your biggest achievements so far? Chasing the dream and having fun while doing it. There awere quite a few big moments like: winning the Local Designer of the Year title; showcasing in India along Ritu Beri and Daniel Hechter; appearing on Next Romanian Top Model and of course (still unbeatable!) the 5000 audience in Malta during the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 2011.
10.
What are your plans for this year?
Opening my own shop. This is so scary but exciting. It should be all up and ready in a month or so. I got a perfect location, perfect deco and lovely people to work with and I am really excited about this. I would love, if time allows me to showcase my collections in Japan and hopefully in Malta again. Maybe a trip to the States, again it all goes down to time.
11.
Where do you see yourself in 5 years’ time?
I have no idea. I know that’s not the professional answer but if you would have asked me this question last year I would have said behind the desk adding numbers. Fashion is a cruel world, one day you are in and the next day you are out. I am a fighter and if I set myself a goal I will go for it. I would love, love to be able to do what I am doing and keep growing. I would love to sell in Japan...but I will just take each day as it comes and try to make the most of it.
REMIXED Carniva
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LONDON
LONDON
FASHION WEEK
LONDON
STOCKHOLM
Photography: Steven Vella 9927 8526 Fashion Stylist: Gayle Zerafa Cutajar 9944 2662 Hair: Vigorous - power to your hair - Clinton Chetcuti Makeup: Steph Lauri 9901 7935 www.stephlauri.eu Models: Marija Mijovic & Zoe Cachia Henson Clothes sponsored by Miss Selfridge & Topshop
REBEL
CHIC
WHAT IS
FASHION? lubomir sabo
photography by
PARTY Photography by Jakub Kaminski
Hair: Sergiusz Pawlak Make up: Makijazownia, Agnieszka Nowak Model: Wioletta Goska Project: Brzozowska Fashion
pavli style party
photography by valentina lupo models by Orsika, Stephanie, Gabriel for SO Management designer clothes by Celeste hair by attMat make up by Stephanie Lauri Place TM TF event at the Palace Hotel
PARTY GIRL
ZITA
Think Music. Think Fashion @ Palace H
otel
PAVLI S
obsession
SOLESTRUCK solestruck.com
BLACK MILK CLOTHING blackmilkclothing.com
MAFFASHION http://madamejulietta.blogspot.com/
Pavli Magazine is a quarterly online magazine about fashion, style, art, people. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the views of the publisher and pavlistyle.com is not responsible for any repercussions that arise from these views. Publisher: Pavlistyle.com