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part one: introduction introduction to branding: 4-9 why sustainability?: 10-11 the menswear market: 12-16 the luxury fashion market: 17
part two: rick owens introducing rick owens: 18-25 THE RICK OWENS consumer: 26-27 past collaborations: 28-31 rick owens 20x20: 32-53
part three: h&M THE FAST FASHION MARKET: 54-55 INTRODUCING H&M: 56-57 THE H&M CONSUMER: 58-59 H&M 20x20: 60-81
part four: the collaboration would a collaboration work?: 82-85 collaboration identity: 86-87 the consumer: 88 market level: 89 logo: 90-91 packaging: 92 swing tags: 93 product: 94-99 price: 100-101 place: 102-105 promotion: 106-107 conclusion: 108-109 references: 110-112 image references: 113
contents
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HISTORY OF BRANDING
The ideas of branding as we know it today have been around for hundreds of years. The word “brand” derived from the Old Norse word “brandr” and originally referred to burning a piece of wood (The Brand Seeds, 2019), by the 17th century the meaning had expanded to a mark burned on cattle to show ownership. Brands started to develop within the marketplace in the mid to late 19th century and began with the connection of the name to a product, it was during this time legal legislations such as copyright and trademark were introduced. Branding has continued to evolve with each industrial revolution and innovations in both scientific and technological industries.
WHY BRANDING?
A brand is so much more than logos and advertisements. It’s essential now more than ever for brands to captivate their audience on every level due to the competitive nature of commerce today. The brands that are winning are the ones making the greatest emotional and memorable connections with their consumers. It is this combination of tangible and intangible factors that help create the desired image in the minds of the consumer and sets the brand aside from the competition. Brands need to make sure they communicate to their audience correctly, those that succeed in doing so are usually the ones thinking outside the box as a brand’s heritage alone is no longer enough to stand out in a highly saturated market. Technological advances have made it so much easier for brands to gain exposure through the use of social platforms which has made the market much more competitive. Marketing fashion involves continual reinvention to stay relevant and attract the consumers of today.
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BRAND IDENTITY
The brand identity is how the brand is projected and its promise to its consumers, this is also how it communicates its values. Brand personality is an important part of the identity to form a relationship with the audience on a personal, meaningful level and stand out from the crowd. Rick Owens is a brand like no other and embodies the same values and beliefs as the designer himself. Rick Owens stands for Rick Owens - the epitome of individuality. H&M has an identity focusing on “fashion and quality at the best price” and offer various styles to satisfy different tastes and demands.
BRAND VALUE VS BRAND VALUES
Brand value is its entire worth - this can change regularly sometimes making it hard to read. Brand values are what it’s about as a brand and what it communicates to its audience. H&M’s brand values are transparent with their audience, their business concept “fashion and quality at the best price” is as clear as their values based on a fundamental respect for each individual and a belief in their people. They fully understand their company and communicate that to their employees who communicate that to their audience.
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BRAND REPUTATION
Brand reputation is how a brand is viewed by others. A good brand reputation means consumers trust your company and feel good about purchasing your products and engaging with your brand, this also increases your brand value. A good brand reputation helps turn loyal customers into brand ambassadors amongst their social circle, it’s important to have brand loyalty to have brand value and make money. People associate branded products with higher quality and are willing to spend more on the product because they trust the brand.
BRAND IMAGE
Brand image is the perception of the brand in the mind of the consumer. Christopher Bailey transformed Burberry, a company formerly known as little more than an unexciting British producer of raincoats and checked scarves into the vast empire it is today (Mower, 2017) which increased its brand value.
CONCLUSION TO BRANDING
Brands must connect to their audience in an emotional and meaningful way if they want to succeed and differentiate themselves from other brands. They can do this by establishing a strong identity and a set of core values. The brands that are winning recognise that the industry is changing and evolve with it to make sure they stay relevant and reach today’s consumer on a more personal level.
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Our awareness as a nation is increasing as people are becoming a lot more conscious of what they’re buying into. Millennials and Gen Z are looking for a new level of transparency when it comes to choosing their brands, statistics show that 73% of millennials are willing to spend more on sustainable products (British American Group, 2018) and there is evidence of movement by consumers of all ages towards investing in fewer, but higher quality basics that can be mixed, matched and re-worn (Stein, 2019). The increased awareness around climate change means consumers are no longer accepting unsustainable practices, statistics show that 57% of consumers are more likely to buy from or boycott a brand because of its stance on a social or political issue. Stella McCartney is a great example of a brand flying the flag for sustainability in luxury fashion, launching the ‘World of Sustainability’ a platform dedicated to documenting the brand’s sustainable practices (MOF Team, 2020).
WHY SUSTAINABILITY?
The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world and one of the most water intensive. We are consuming a lot more products than we used to, and fast fashion is one of the main reasons. As global warming and other ecological disasters reach a breaking point, there is a noticeable shift in behaviour from consumers.
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the brief
“You have been asked by an industry consultant specialising in menswear to present your ideas around the future of the menswear market, investigating how the Fast Fashion market could collaborate with a luxury menswear brand to create a more sustainable product for the more conscious consumer�
the menswear market
In response to the brief, I will collaborate the fast-fashion retailer H&M with the designer Rick Owens. I will present my findings on why the global menswear market is on the rise, the new menswear consumer, current trends driving the market as well as why fast fashion is failing. Furthermore, I will communicate my ideas on a collaboration between both brands, explaining why and how it would work as well as how it would be promoted. The menswear sector currently contributes $460bn to the global clothing and footwear market (Geoghegan, 2017) and is growing faster than womenswear. Research by Mintel shows the menswear market is currently worth ÂŁ15bn a year in the UK and is predicted to grow by 11% in 2022 (Mintel, 2018). These statistics suggest that due to the significant growth of the menswear market a collaboration between both brands could strongly appeal to menswear consumers.
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the new menswear consumer
Men today are showing increasing concern over their appearance and are taking more control over their style. Social media is fuelling this bold new menswear consumer, and trends are moving significantly as a result. With the rise of social media influencers inspiring men to feel comfortable in their skin, men are experimenting with their style more than they have done in the past and have started pairing high-end brands with more affordable ones, resulting in a rise of men showing their individuality through the clothes they are wearing. Men are demanding high quality and functional items rather than value fast fashion. Brand engagement with this new menswear consumer is much more likely to be value-based, as research shows that men care more about being honest, reliable, and dependable over muscular and athletic (Chitrakorn, 2019). Trends show that men generally prefer to research before making a purchase and find value in brands that are transparent in how they source and manufacture their products. The results of First Insight’s consumer study indicate that men are shopping more often than women both online and in-store (Petro,2019), therefore, brands need to be attentive to male shoppers across all platforms. Statistics show that Millennials are 1.6 times more likely to use digital channels to learn about products and men, in particular, chose Instagram over fashion magazines because of the wider range of styles available. However, the business intelligence firm L2inc found that menswear brands are falling behind womenswear brands when it comes to engaging with consumers through social platforms posting fewer times in comparison and had 75% smaller social followings (Apparel Online, 2018). These statistics show a real opportunity for menswear brands to catch up with the evolving habits of their consumers.
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GQ’s November 2019 cover featured Pharrell Williams in a Moncler puffer dress with the cover line “The New Masculinity” challenging notions of what qualifies as menswear as the idea of gender becomes more fluid (Fraser, 2020). Brands such as “Official Rebrand” and “Ka Wa Key” are just a few of many designers presenting gender-fluid collections with the idea that there is no such thing as men’s or women’s clothing, there is just clothing. With a heightened awareness of the fashion industry’s impact on the environment, sustainability has also been a main focus on the catwalk with designers trying their best to make a difference. Rick Owens has taken measures to improve his business by replacing snakeskin with the “ecological and responsible” by-product of the fish pirarucu, as well as using sustainable plastic in his AW20 collection. He explained “I feel hypocritical talking about it because I’ve poisoned more than I’ll ever be able to recover, but the message isn’t so much about sustainability, anybody can start doing something now, even this late in the game, even after all the hypocrisy. If somebody like me can do it, anybody can start making an improvement” (Madsen, 2020). Other trends include leather and a return to the traditional skills of men’s tailoring. While the last decade was all about athleisure, the return to tailoring indicates men are regaining their power, opting for emotional and sustainable investments.
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the luxury fashion market
The luxury fashion sector is said to amount to £74, 411m in 2020, and is expected to grow annually by 7.7% (Statista, not dated a). Millennial and Gen Z consumers are rejecting the stereotypes of traditional wealth and are looking for new values to define status. They are likely to make value-based purchases and look for luxury brands that are aligned with their personal values. Research shows that 67% of Gen Z and 60% of millennials have bought a designer collaboration or special edition piece. Luxury brands are collaborating with innovative streetwear designers to create high-end collections that are desirable to the Gen Z and Millennial consumer, an example being Louis Vuitton X Supreme (MOF Team, 2020). According to The Future Laboratory, today’s luxury consumer is looking to express their identity rather than what they have. They want to be seen as ethical, creative, connected, and conscientious. Brands that can communicate with this new mindset and align their values with their audience will have opportunities to deliver meaningful experiences (MOF Team, 2020).
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FIGURE 7
INTRODUcing RICK OWENS
“I try to make clothes the way Lou Reed does music, with minimal chord changes, it’s about giving everything I make a worn, softened feel. It’s about an elegance being tinged with the barbaric, the luxury of not caring” (Huffpost, 2011).
Rick Owens is an American designer based in Paris known for his avant-garde and minimalistic designs often described as the “luxury of not caring”. He began his label in 1994 selling exclusively to Charles Galley who carried names like Versace, Mugler, and Margiela. His first show took place at New York Fashion Week’s SS02 season and was sponsored by American Vogue following French Vogue’s publication of Kate Moss wearing one of his signature jackets. In 2002 he branched out into menswear and has gone on to create a fiercely independent fashion empire with his business partner and wife Michele Lamy. In addition to his main line, he has a furniture line and several diffusion lines: DRKSHDW, Rickowenslilies, and Hunrickowens (Business of Fashion, 2020).
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furniture
RICK OWENS CHILDHOOD/INFLUENCES
FIGURES 8-13
Rick had a very conservative upbringing in Porterville. His parents were both very religious and didn’t understand him. He attended a catholic school where he felt very uncomfortable as a shy and effeminate child, “I was being mocked and assaulted by the boys my age. However, it was great because it filled me with rage. I grew up. My character was hardened, and I could answer for myself, and the attacks have ceased, from there. I have rejected all that was considered normal and straight in the world and I did everything to change it” (Champenois, 2015). His traditional upbringing meant his household didn’t have a television until he was 16 years old and encouraged him to find enjoyment in his parent’s music and literature, listening to the likes of classical composer Richard Wagner. Outside of the home, he would listen to music by KISS and Alice Cooper, which have all played a significant role in influencing his work - his DRKSHDW AW19 ‘Deeper Than A Mothers Tears’ collection features the lyrics of Wagner’s ‘Schmerzen’.
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RICK OWENS
Rick Owens is more than a brand. It’s a lifestyle that stands for nothing less than quality and individuality. Influencing several designers like Gareth Pugh, his gothic ‘glunge’ aesthetic embodies a fashion-sportswear hybrid with androgynous design. His flamboyant brutalist approach is prominent in his fashion, furniture, and personal life. He rejects the notion of trends and essentially creates his own by revisiting past designs to study his mistakes to evolve for future collections - I see this as a celebration of his independence. The brand is known for not investing in advertising, remaining true to the concept that a good product must stand for itself, instead, he expands his instantly recognisable imagery through his diffusion lines “it’s all about committing yourself to an aesthetic” Owens explained to Dazed magazine (Woodward, 2017). As well as creating clothes and furniture, Rick Owens has authored several books including one dedicated to the life, work and legacy of Larry Legaspi – “he introduced a camp ferocity to the mainstream and helped set a lot of kids like me free, with his art deco sexual ambiguity and raw, black leather bombast” he explained after his Paris show (Davidson, 2017).
PRODUCT RANGE
Rick Owens products are wardrobe staples that have been exaggerated by the designer to strip away their normality. He likes to damage materials making them stretched, torn, and stained, “as for clothes, I grabbed what was in the street in everyday life; sneakers, jeans, shirts, and I sabotaged this normality, I exaggerated, I infected… it was my revenge” (Champenois, 2015). Notable designs include: ‘Creatch’ cargo pants, the signature ‘Stooges’ leather jacket worn by Kate Moss in French Vogue, ‘Geobasket’ sneakers and men’s ‘KISS boots. He uses monochromatic colour schemes, allowing the shapes and silhouettes of his garments to gain maximum attention. The price of outerwear ranges from £2,500 - £25,000. Pieces from his diffusion lines DRKSHDW and Rick Owens Lilies are a lot more affordable and appeal to younger consumers who want to buy into the brand.
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RICK OWENS CONSUMER
His brand-loyal fans are devoted and tend to own an entire wardrobe of garments that mark the signature Rick Owens aesthetic. It’s impossible to define his demographic, as explained by the psychology of fashion “these individuals are iconoclasts who use fashion as a bold expression of who they are” (Palmer, 2018). The brand embodies the same values and beliefs as Rick Owens himself - this is key to his success as he resonates with his audience who want to use fashion as a means of self-expression.
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“I’m the first to roll my eyes about the collaboration thing, but the other side of me thinks that any excuse for people to intersect, especially in the fashion world—and especially somebody like me—to go out and kind of intersect with other fashion bubbles, is something I really approve of” (Yotka, 2020).
RICK OWENS COLLABORATIONS
Rick Owens has collaborated with the likes of Adidas, Birkenstock, Champion, Moncler, and most notably French label Veja, known for its low-impact sneakers made in Brazil. Like Rick Owens, Veja doesn’t advertise and instead invests in the production “other brands put their money in advertising campaigns when they could be putting it into finding better ecological materials, or better factories” the founder of the French label told Vogue (Farra, 2019). The collaboration incorporates Rick Owen’s distinctive aesthetic in the form of an environmentally friendly sneaker made from carefully selected materials like recycled plastic and natural rubber.
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20x20 The brand philosophy is the most important aspect of a
brand. This research development method is used to understand the core message and intentions of your brand and defines the target audience. The idea is to choose twenty words that represent your brand, you then ask why and research further into each word so you’re left with twenty answers that will help you identify your brand’s voice. I will use this method to help me identify similarities between Rick Owens and H&M.
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ava ntgar de
People or works that are experimental, radical, or unorthodox with respect to art, culture of society (Wikipedia, 2020b).
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anti-fashion
Rick Owens doesn’t follow trends and instead focusses on consistency, an extremely anti-fashion concept.
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Rick Owens is a nonconformist by nature. He casts “real people” for his shows, not beautiful by conventional fashion standards, he does this to show beauty is a story of self-confidence and attitude. As Rick Owens doesn’t invest in advertising, he uses his fashion shows to make statements about himself and his views about the world. His SS14 show caused hysteria by casting hip-hop dancers to present his collection, questioning what fashion is.
nonconformist
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androgyny
The combination of masculine and feminine characteristics into an 41 ambiguous form (Wikipedia, 2020a).
A neologism created to describe a fashion movement seen as a combination of glamour and grunge.
glunge
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Rick Owens has acknowledged “the logic and brutalism” of architects such as Le Corbusier for inspiration far more often than the work of other designers. Many of his shows have paid tribute to specific buildings – his AW12 show is an example of this, which saw models showcase ski masks which he dubbed as “brutalist veils” and his AW15 collection was a homage to the Mayan-influenced architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright (Woodward, 2017).
architecture
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streetstyle
The contrast of high-quality and exaggerated aesthetics has inspired countless streetwear designers like Kanye West who has acknowledged Rick Owens as an influence on his Yeezy collections. Rap music has also contributed to his success with artists like A$AP Rocky namedropping Rick Owens in music, giving him access to a wider audience.
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independent Rick Owens is ferociously independent. He owns 80% of the Owenscorp company himself and the other 20% belongs to his commercial director and CEO. Everything sold under his name is designed by him personally, his collections are kept secret to everyone in his company until days before each show and for AW16 he hand-draped every single piece from the collection himself as a reaction to the fast fashion industry (Woodward, 2017).
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Rick Owens stands for quality and inidviudality.
indiviudal
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elegance
“I try to make clothes the way Lou Reed does music, with minimal chord changes, it’s about giving everything I make a worn, softened feel. It’s about an elegance being tinged with the barbaric, the luxury of not caring” (Huffpost, 2011). 53
the fast fashion market
Fast fashion is a term used to describe cheap clothing produced quickly by mass-market retailers in response to the latest trends. The industry is responsible for high carbon emissions, 20% of global wastewater production, and large amounts of landfill waste (7 billion for 7 seas, 2018). As of 2018, the global market value of fast fashion was 35 billion dollars and is predicted to reach 44 billion dollars by 2028 (Statista). Recently we have seen evidence that suggests the growth of fast fashion could be slowing down or at least changing. H&M - the world’s second-largest clothing manufacturer behind Zara announced the closing of 160 stores in 2018 after accumulating more than 4 billion dollars in unsold inventory.
Fast fashion retailers H&M and Zara are aware of this shift and are implementing changes to become more sustainable. Zara has announced that all of its collections will be made from 100% sustainable fabrics by 2025 and 80 % of the energy consumed by its headquarters, factories, and stores will be from renewable sources, promising that its facilities will produce zero landfill waste by 2023. The chief executive of Inditex said, “we need to be a force for change, not only in the company but in the whole sector” (Conlon, 2019).
There is growing evidence of push back from Millennials and Gen Z as awareness of the drastic ecological damage the throw away fast-fashion mindset is having on the planet. Environmental groups are impacting the attitudes of consumers by raising awareness and altering purchasing patterns as they demand drastic industry change. This has resulted in both consumer groups demanding a new level of transparency around the ecological footprint and the entire life cycle of a product. Trends are changing from a top-down fashion evolution driven by the internet and social media. Cultural influencers like Marie Kondo are teaching us to “love our stuff” and “look at what we have with new eyes” as we move away from what’s trending and towards what’s stylish (Stein, 2019).
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INTRODUCING H&M
Hennes & Mauritz, known today as “H&M” is a Swedish fast-fashion retailer, known for being the second largest in the world. First founded in 1947 by Erling Persson, the company was originally called “Hennes” a Swedish word for “hers” and sold only women’s clothing. In 1968 the name was changed to Hennes & Mauritz, which saw the beginning of sales of men’s and children’s clothing, and since then, it has expanded its product range to include womenswear, menswear, kids clothing, footwear, accessories, cosmetics, and homeware. As of 2019, the total number of H&M stores worldwide amounts to 5,076 (Statista, not dated b). H&M Group consists of several other brands such as COS, Monki, Weekday, ARKET, and & Other Stories. H&M’s mission is to deliver fashion and quality at the best price and in a sustainable way. They describe themselves as a value-driven, customer-focused, creative, and responsible fashion company. Their prices tend to start at £3.99 for items like T-shirts and can go up to £200 for premium quality items such as suede jackets and leather bags.
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H&M CONSUMER
H&M cater to everyone with their extensive product range; however, they target women in the Gen Z and Millennial consumer groups mainly. They are fashion-conscious individuals who want to follow the recent trends without investing in a lot of money but also like to experiment with their style by mix and matching items to create their own look - this is where I connect H&M with Rick Owens as both brands consumer want to use fashion as a means of self-expression. H&M’s business concept “fashion and quality at the best price” and its focus on sustainability provide them with a point of difference against competitors Zara and Uniqlo as transparency is something Millennials and Gen Z are searching for when it comes to choosing their brands.
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H&M aims for all its products to be made from recycled or other sustainably sourced materials by 2030, which already applies to 57% of the materials that they use. They have a “conscious� line featuring pieces that are made from at least 50% sustainably sourced materials like organic cotton and recycled polyester, with many containing a lot more than that (H&M, 2020a). In 2015 they introduced a garment collecting programme and feature recycling boxes in their stores around the world. They encourage customers to recycle unwanted clothing by any brand and in any condition to receive a thank you voucher towards their next purchase.
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H&M has a strong track record of successful designer collaborations, with the majority selling out in hours and hitting the secondary market for three times the price. Their avant-garde collaboration with Maison Margiela, a label much like Rick Owens that is well known in fashion circles but far from mainstream, proved to be a success. “I’ve never heard of him, but I always buy things from the H&M designer ranges,” said one shopper who had bought £900 worth of womenswear (Chilvers, 2012) - this suggests that collaboration with Rick Owens would go down well with H&M’s brand loyal consumer.
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H&M offers a broad range of fashion and is well known for selling wardrobe “basics� such as T-shirts, hoodies, and jeans that allow the customer to experiment and develop their personal style.
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Although H&M is a fast-fashion brand they are known to be one of the most sustainable and have become the highest scoring brand ever in ‘The Fashion Transparency Index’ which evaluates how transparent companies are on a range 69 of social and environmental sustainability issues.
H&M’s extensive product offering all contributes to the consumers way of life which makes it a lifestyle brand.
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Quality is in their business concept of “fashion and quality at the best price”. H&M is one of the best fast fashion brands in terms of quality and also offer a premium quality range for both men and women that features “timeless pieces” made from high-quality fabrics such as cashmere, linen, silk, and leather.
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H&M has dabbled in genderless fashion collaborating with fellow Swedish brand Eytys in pursuit to blur gender lines. The collection features genderless shoes, clothing, and accessories for adults and even offers a selection for kids.
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The H&M app is a key part of their marketing strategy and features an ‘in-store mode’ which allows shoppers to find available sizes and colours and a visual search feature that helps shoppers find items using their photos to search for lookalikes. Members can collect points and receive 10% off a purchase after joining. Additional perks of the membership include; free click and collect, free standard delivery if you spend £20 or more and ‘buy now pay later’ which allows shoppers to try their items before they commit to buying them as 51% of Millennials and 42% of Gen Z said they would prefer to buy from a retailer that offered this feature (Finextra, 2020).
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With new technological advances, H&M is constantly working to make their product more sustainable. Past conscious collections have featured innovative vegan materials such as ‘Pinatex’ (leather made from pineapples) and ‘Orange Fibre’ (silk made from oranges). Recently, the H&M Foundation’s Global Change Award winner ‘Vegea’ has innovated a way to turn waste from winemaking into a vegetal leather alternative (H&M, 2020b).
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H&M’s online sales increased by 30% in 2019 thanks to integrating online and in-store experiences (Charlton, 2020), suggesting that their online presence has been a priority for the brand. H&M communicate with their audience mainly through Instagram as research shows Millennials, and men, in particular, are using Instagram more than any other social platform. They currently have 35 million followers and engage with their audience daily, encouraging them to use the #HMxME hashtag for a chance to be featured on their feed where they also promote products from their website. They have posted same-sex men and women kissing, communicating that H&M is a brand that celebrates love and stands for authenticity.
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WOULD A COLLABORATION WORK?
Rick Owens and H&M are total opposites in terms of market-level. Rick Owens is a luxury brand that rejects the trend concept and H&M is a fast-fashion brand that reacts to trend. However, they are very alike in the way they both offer wardrobe staples that capture the personality of each individual depending on how they chose to style them. Rick Owens almost gives his clothes a secret code prior, by exaggerating their aesthetic he strips away their ‘normality’ and essentially engraves his DNA, making them instantly recognisable to the eye of a Rick Owens fan. Both brands give their consumer a sense of freedom and creativity to express their individuality and have played a part in redefining the norm with their genderless clothes. In the past, Rick Owens has described his shows as contemporary ceremonies, explaining that “ceremonies are about coming together, and communities are about people affirming the values that they all want to follow”. He considers grace, dignity, integrity, and thoughtfulness as “the most glittering facets of humanity” (Champenois, 2015) in which I have connected with the H&M Foundation and its mission to act as a catalyst for positive change for people and communities. Their shared values strongly suggest that a collaboration between the brands would work while remaining true to the integrity of Rick Owens and H&M.
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Following my extensive research into branding, it is now clear that the identity of the collaboration must reflect the values of both Rick Owens and H&M and the relationships they have built with their consumers.
COLLABORATION IDENTITY Men today are demanding quality, functionality, and technology and find value in transparent brands. Therefore, H&M’s conscious collection and its values of quality, sustainability, and transparency will be at the heart of the collaboration. Rick Owens will be the focal point, providing a sense of exclusivity and luxury to consumers with his signature avant-garde aesthetic and gender-fluid design. The idea of the collaboration is to reconnect with wardrobe “basics” and evolve them in true Rick Owen’s style. Exaggerating the garments aesthetic will provide the consumer with something unique, and even timeless. Current trends of genderless and leather will also be explored to keep the collaboration current and relevant. Rick Owens has built a cult following around his signature leather jackets and androgynous design, therefore, I feel like exploring these trends, in particular, will remain true to Rick Owens and satisfy the more trend-conscious consumer simultaneously. Rick Owens’ contrast of high-quality material and exaggerated aesthetic will appeal to the bold, new, menswear consumer who wants to experiment with his style. Basing the collaboration on H&M’s conscious concept will meet the demands of the more conscious consumer who is looking for sustainability and transparency in a brand this will also boost H&M’s brand reputation as a fast-fashion retailer. For Rick Owens, this will allow him to reach a wider audience and potentially adopt a new generation of consumers who will invest in his flagship label in the future.
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COLLABORATION CONSUMER This collaboration in the menswear market
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and 1995) and Gen Z (born between 1995 and Owens targets individuals who use fashion as
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will target Millennials (born between 1981 2015) as this is H&M’s main consumer. Rick
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a bold form of self-expression, making it hard to define his demographic, however, he will
MARKET LEVEL
appeal to both generations of men who are
The market level of this collaboration will be
now dressing to show their individuality. Mil-
the diffusion line sector of the marketing pyr-
lennials and Gen Z have experienced signif-
amid. Diffusion lines are secondary lines cre-
icant ecological and technological shifts and
ated by designers that are intended to reach a
are no longer accepting unsustainable prac-
younger, aspirational demographic with low-
tices, aligning their values of sustainability,
er price points. This collaboration will very
transparency, and quality with the brands
much stick to Rick Owens’ avant-garde signa-
they choose - making brand engagement with
ture style to ensure it delivers a sense of ex-
this new menswear consumer much more
clusivity and luxury to the consumer; howev-
likely to be value-based.
er, it will feature lower price points to reach Millennials and Gen Z.
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logo Logos are essentially the face of your brand identity, so it’s essential to be consistent with your image. Rick Owens has said in the past that “it’s all about committing yourself to an aesthetic” and has expanded his instantly recognisable imagery through his diffusion lines, therefore, I wanted to create something that would be identifiable to both brands aesthetic, with more focus on Rick Owens. The sharp-edged star resembles the one from Rick Owens DRKSHDW diffusion line, I wanted this to be the key identifier for Rick Owens as this collaboration will sit in the diffusion line level of the marketing pyramid. I have integrated H&M’s logo inside the star to symbolise the connection of values. I have kept to the ‘glunge’ aesthetic of Rick Owens by changing the H&M logo to black instead of its signature red, this also shows that Rick Owens is taking the lead and gives consumers a sense of luxury. I have also kept to Rick Owens’ signature monochrome colour palette to highlight the ‘eco’ of the word ‘reconnect’ in the colour grey – this is a subtle way to reinforce that this is a sustainable collection. I have used uppercase lettering in both logos as this is something Rick Owens is known for and has explained “I like how things almost come out like a proclamation”.
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packaging swing tags
I wanted the packaging to reflect sustainability as well as luxury as this is one of the main values and must stay present throughout the product and packaging. H&M’s carrier bags are currently made from paper and can be easily recycled; therefore, the same material will be used in the packaging for the collaboration.Rick Owens will influence the aesthetic - taking inspiration from his flagship brands packaging to provide a sense of exclusivity while the brand image remains consistent and instantly recognisable. The contrast of the structured, exaggerated silhouette and simple colours embody “the luxury of not caring� in the packaging.
The tags will also reflect the avant-garde nature of the collaboration and will feature the same colours. There will be three tags in total, the first tag is the brand collaboration tag which will show the size and price of the garment, the second will be a green-conscious tag so shoppers are aware that its part of a conscious collection and is made from at least 50% sustainably sourced materials such as vegea, organic cotton, and recycled polyester, the third tag will integrate online and instore experiences and will feature a QR code that shoppers can scan using the H&M app to see which collection it first appeared as some of the products from the collaboration will be original designs from Rick Owens. The swing tags will be made from Bamboo as it is both a sustainable and renewable alternative for making paper - consumers can keep this as a token as this may be an emotional investment.
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With H&M’s conscious line being the foundation of the collaboration, all the materials used will be at least 50% sustainably sourced. The product will keep to Rick Owens’ signature avant-garde style to deliver a sense of luxury to the consumer. The collaboration will be based on a capsule of wardrobe basics that have been evolved into something new and unique. All pieces can be worn together by the consumer to create a signature Rick Owens look, or they can be mix and matched with other items. Gender fluid design will keep the collaboration current now that the idea of gender is becoming a lot more fluid in today’s social climate.
The collaboration will explore the leather trend taking inspiration from the cult following Rick Owens has built around his leather jackets featuring an exclusive re-edition of the signature ‘stooges’ jacket. It will be an original Rick Owens design, featuring angular flaps and an asymmetric zipper, made from ‘Vegea’ - a vegetal leather alternative. Trends come and go, but timeless wardrobe staples like leather jackets can be kept for years, making it both an emotional and sustainable investment for the consumer.
Wardrobe staples like T-shirts, denim jackets, and cargo pants will be explored and re-imagined in avant-garde silhouettes and muted colour palettes, pushing the boundaries of traditional shapes and gender-fluid design. I have developed a T-shirt focussing on the dynamic oversized silhouettes of Rick Owens’ mainline but combining it with an easier to wear aesthetic for the collaboration. The T-Shirt features Frank Lloyd Wright’s design Falling Water. In its setting, Falling Water embodies a powerful ideal that society today can learn to live in harmony with nature, therefore, integrating this into the collaboration reflects the sustainability aspect of the collaboration and recognises Rick Owens’ influence of Frank Lloyd Wright’s work.
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Lower-priced items will include reusable tote bags that may target Gen Z in particular. This product development features a print of Rick Owens and is a strong image to use as it redefines what is deemed normal. Featuring Rick Owens on a product makes consumers aware of who is actually behind the brand Rick Owens and celebrates him as the individual he is.
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price The price will reflect quality as men are demanding high-quality and functional items over inexpensive, however, a range of price points will be available to appeal to both Millennial and Gen Z consumers. Items like tote bags will be at the lower end at around £30, meaning consumers with lower budgets can still buy into the collaboration. Items such as T-Shirts will be retailed at around £90, making the items a lot more affordable than Rick Owens’ diffusion line DRKSHDW without cheapening the brand. Larger items like the ‘stooges’ jacket will be retailed at the higher end of the collaboration at around £250 as this will be an original Rick Owens design, this will be more of an investment piece for the consumer, which will also make it more special. Similar pricing has worked in previous H&M collaborations such as Maison Margiela x H&M with prices ranging from £29-£250.
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place The collaboration will be sold exclusively at H&M’s Regent Street flagship store. Launching it in London will create higher brand awareness among younger and urban consumers. The instore interior will reflect “the luxury of not caring” and the minimal elegance of both brands, making the collaboration itself the main focus. Millennials are leading the way in online purchases due to the convenience aspect of online retail and statistics show that they make 54% of purchases online (Law, 2020), therefore this collaboration will be available to buy via the H&M website as well as in-store. The product range will be limited and won’t restock, this again provides the consumer with a sense of exclusivity and makes the collaboration more desirable in their eyes.
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PROMOTION Rick Owens doesn’t advertise remaining true to the idea that a good product must stand for itself, however, he does post about his collections on Instagram using his instantly recognisable imagery. As the more connected generation, research shows that Millennials, and men, in particular, are using Instagram more than any other social platform, therefore, with both Rick Owens and the consumer in mind, Instagram will be the main form of promotion, this also means H&M’s more brand loyal consumer will get exclusive access to information about the collaboration, and as this will be a limited range, will provide them with a sense of exclusivity.
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CONCLUSION This brand book has collaborated fast-fashion retailer H&M with the designer Rick Owens to create a more sustainable product for the
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new conscious consumer. O
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Due to the significant growth of the menswear market and the rise of men showing their individuality through the clothes they wear a
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collaboration between both brands would be desirable to the menswear consumer. The heightened awareness of the fashion industry’s
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impact on the environment has put a considerable amount of pressure on both fast fashion and luxury brands to make their businesses
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more sustainable and align their values with their consumers who are favouring quality, transparency, and sustainability over inexpensive clothing. The collaborations identity has been formed by merging
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Rick Owens and H&M’s values, providing the consumer with quality, individuality, transparency, and sustainability. Making Rick Owens the lead has given the consumer a sense of luxury in the form
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of avant-garde and exaggerated spin on everyday basics. Overall, I feel like this collaboration has met the demands of the new menswear consumer and has provided a more sustainable product, that is high in quality and unique. Building the collaboration on H&M’s conscious concept has met the demands of the more conscious con-
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sumer and has heightened H&M’s brand reputation as a fast-fashion retailer. Finally, the collaboration has given Rick Owens access to a N
younger audience who may potentially invest in his brand in the future when their income is disposable.
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Farra, E. (2019). “Contributing More Beauty Than We Consume Is the Attitude to Strive For” – Rick Owens Talks Sustainability and His Latest Sneaker. Retrieved from https://www. vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2020-menswear/rick-owens/collection
Finextra. (2020). UK’s ‘buy now, pay later’ market booms despite credit score concerns. Retrieved from https://www.finextra.com/newsarticle/35180/uks-buy-now-pay-later-market-booms-despitecredit-score-concerns Fraser, K. (2020). The New Trends in Menswear. Retrieved from https://fashionunited.com/news/ fashion/the-new-trends-in-menswear/2020020531970 Geoghegan, J. (2017). Menswear Growth to Outstrip Womenswear by 2020. Retrieved from https:// www.drapersonline.com/news/menswear-growth-to-outstrip-womenswear-by-2020/7017443.article H&M. (2020a). Let’s be conscious. Retrieved from https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/hm-sustainability/lets-change.html/conscious H&M. (2020b). Let’s be innovative. Retrieved from https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/hm-sustainability/lets-change.html/innovate H&M. (2020c). Let’s be transparent. Retrieved from https://www2.hm.com/en_gb/hm-sustainability/lets-change.html/transparent Huffpost. (2011). Rick Owens Talks Lou Reed, Fascism & Homophobic Father. Retrieved from https://www.huffpost.com/entry/rick-owens-talks-lou-reed_n_842015?guccounter=1&guce_referrer=aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZ29vZ2xlLmNvbS8&guce_referrer_sig=AQAAALWEKq_uUpiFrWsCGOT4zdLpL-Lvu3brvFcrhAYJ_nH8huICaUNgUKOpPdkDu8TTnb915dnGR8rualEaK0ZVJmcu63PInVrhdKFNTraFyx1o-yf8o2ej7h7YcaQKrnC6soiqTJNsfG0QoSDm37hgBTgaWGALHKtqf_jZ1MwrIv_K Law, L. (2020). 45 Statistics on Millennial Spending Habits in 2020. Retrieved from https://www.lexingtonlaw.com/blog/credit-cards/millennial-spending-habits.html Madsen, A. C. (2020). Rick Owens Autumn/Winter 2020 Menswear Collection. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2020-menswear/rick-owens/collection Mintel. (2018). Dressed for Success: Mintel Unveils 10 Menswear Fashion Facts for London Fashion Week Men’s. Retrieved from https://www.mintel.com/press-centre/fashion/dressed-for-success-mintel-unveils-10-menswear-fashion-facts-for-london-fashion-week-mens
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IMAGE REFERENCES MOF Team. (2020). The Luxury Report: The State of the Industry in 2020 and Beyond. Retrieved from https://matterofform.com/the-luxury-report/ Mower, S. (2017). How Christopher Bailey Transformed Burberry and Redefined Brand Revivals in the 21st Century. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/article/burberry-christopher-bailey-legacy
Figure 1: https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/qjdbnm/rick-owens-aw20-paris-fashion-week-review
Palmer, N. (2018). Behind The Cult Following of Rick Owens. Retrieved from http://www.tpof-thepsychologyoffashion.com/features/fashion-psychology/rick-owens-brand
Figure 3: https://www.elle.com/beauty/makeup-skin-care/news/a26551/suki-waterhouse-new-burberry-fragrance-campaign/
Petro, G. (2019). The Rise of The New Male Power Shopper. Retrieved from https://www.forbes. com/sites/gregpetro/2019/01/25/the-rise-of-the-new-male-power-shopper/ Statista. (not dated a). Luxury fashion. Retrieved from https://www.statista.com/outlook/21030000/100/luxury-fashion/worldwide Statista. (not dated b). Number of stores of the H&M Group worldwide as of 2019, by selected country*. Retrieved from https://www.statista.com/statistics/268522/number-of-stores-worldwide-ofthe-hundm-group-by-country/
Figure 2: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/98/71/34/9871348efea3f5794ebd451e63df8a1a.jpg
Figure 4: https://annamayjordan.blogspot.com/2018/04/stella-mccartney-sustainability.html Figure 5: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2020-menswear/alexander-mcqueen/slideshow/ collection#7 Figure 6: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/19/c6/db/19c6dbbdaa8360919d3a9542d9776e84.jpg
Stein, S. (2019). How Could Changing Consumer Trends Affect Fast-Fashion Leaders H&M and Zara?. Retrieved from https://www.forbes.com/sites/sanfordstein/2019/02/10/how-could-changing-consumer-trends-affect-fast-fashion-leaders-hm-and-zara/#232871ae6f48
Figure 7: https://showstudio.com/projects/rick_owens_portrait/editorial_gallery
The Brand Seeds. (2019). What is a Brand?. Retrieved from https://thebrandseeds.com/en/blogen/what-is-a-brand
Figure 8 – 13: https://www.rickowens.eu/en/GB/men
Wikipedia. (2020a). Androgyny. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Androgyny
Figure 14: https://hypebeast.com/tags/veja
Wikipedia. (2020b). Avant-garde. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avant-garde Woodward, D. (2017). Your ultimate guide to Rick Owens. Retrieved from https://www.dazeddigital. com/fashion/article/34382/1/your-ultimate-guide-to-rick-owens Yotka, S. (2020). Rick Owens Crafts “A Story About Personal, Intimate Space” – and a Tour Bus – for Moncler. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/article/rick-owens-moncler-collaboration
Figure 15: https://fabrikbrands.com/quintessentially-british-brands-vivienne-westwood-brand/ Figure 16: https://metro.co.uk/2019/12/01/hm-to-start-renting-clothes-to-shoppers-at-its-flagship-store-instockholm-11249060/
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Figure 17: https://hmgroup.com/about-us/history/the-40_s---50_s.html