Bringing Global Sandwiches Home

50 California Street, Suite 3600 San Francisco, CA 94111

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for culinary insiders SPRING/SUMMER 2009

BRINGING GLOBAL SANDWICHES HOME Tastes, Tips and Recipes from Around the World

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welcome

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Dear Friend, When I was growing up in Brooklyn, the sandwich of my dreams was hot pastrami on a crispy knish. It was so good it made me dizzy, and I’ve never forgotten it. What that perfect treat taught me was that a sandwich doesn’t have to be about just bread and baloney.

Great ingredients stacked on a warm roll, bun, dumpling or flatbread—that’s the definition of sandwich satisfaction.

SANDWICHES G O

These days, sandwiches are more popular than ever, and I’m not just talking about the ones we bring to work or grab for lunch at the sandwich joint near the office. Did you know that every night 10 percent of us North Americans sit down to some kind of sandwich for dinner?

So we thought it would be fun to take a look at the endless variety of sandwiches all around the globe, and bring a few of them home with some easy, boldly flavored recipes. We hope you enjoy this little sandwich picnic, and we encourage you to let us know what you think— and what your favorite sandwich is these days.

Mine would have to be the California artisanal grilled cheese at Hog Island Oyster Company in the Ferry Building Marketplace in San Francisco.

Either that or the panko-crusted Monte Cristo recipe in this issue!

Happy slicing, spreading, stacking and eating,

Helen Roberts Manager of Culinary Development and Public Relations www.kikkomanusa.com

inside F E AT U R E S Sandwiches Go Global 3 Global Sandwiches—A Cook’s Tour 6 TECHNIQUES Discover Umami 5 Seven Sandwich Secrets 6 Great Go-Withs 9

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RECIPES Philly Cheesesteak 10 Monte Cristo 10 Shrimp Po’ Boy 11 Hearty Bean Burgers 11

GLOBAL To most of us, sandwiches are quintessentially American. Grilled cheese and peanut butter and jelly will always be the pillars of the Sandwich Pantheon, but new contenders from around the world, as well as lesser-known regional American specialties, are vying for a spot in our hearts and stomachs. Anywhere there’s some sort of bread, you can bet it’s been wrapped around a flavorful filling to make a convenient, portable meal.

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT Panko Bread Crumbs 9

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In many countries where home kitchens are modest, street food is the order of the day, and sandwiches offer all the essentials of snacking on the go—speed, portability and of course, mouthwatering flavor. Spicy deep-fried potato patties in a bun, eaten piping hot with chutney, are a favorite at Mumbai food stalls. Street fairs in the South of France bring vendors selling merguez—spicy grilled Algerian sausages—in a crusty baguette (with a side of french fries, of course!). And at taco trucks around the U.S., you’ll find torta milanesa, a sandwich that stars a crispy breaded steak cutlet.

Ethnic Influences Juicy kebabs wrapped in puffy Indian naan, delicate openface sandwiches from a Scandinavian smörgåsbord, a hearty ham-filled Cubano sandwich oozing cheese—international sandwiches like these are turning up more and more in the U.S. And these days, you can find them everywhere from hole-in-the-wall ethnic eateries to high-end restaurants.

As our population becomes more diverse and more international, there’s plenty of tasty cross-fertilization going on, with ethnic influences inspiring new twists on old favorites. Take the Vietnamese po’ boy, a variation on the New Orleans standard, made popular by Southeast Asian immigrants in Louisiana. Instead of the usual fried shrimp or oysters, it features roast pork and hot peppers.

Sandwiches are ideal for packing in a lunch box when you’re looking to save money—and these days, who isn’t? If you’re bored with the same old turkey or tuna salad, look beyond borders for fresh inspiration. A little research in your favorite ethnic cookbooks will reward you with great new ideas for breads, fillings, condiments and sandwich-friendly sides.

• Instead of mustard, slather spicy Indian chutney on your cheese sandwich.

• Wrap curried egg or tuna salad in puffy tandoori naan instead of white bread.

• A drizzle of chimichurri, Argentina’s bold herb salsa, will transform a steak sandwich from all-American to South American.

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• Try a little Kikkoman Teriyaki Baste & Glaze or Tonkatsu Sauce as a condiment for a sandwich made from leftover chicken.

• If you live in a town with Asian markets, check the shelves for Korean kim chee or Japanese radish pickles for a nice change from the standard cucumber pickles.

The Vietnamese banh mi sandwich, itself a great example of the culinary fusion of the French baguette and Vietnamese barbecued pork, continues to evolve in the U.S. as it spawns new variations in its adopted home.

California contributed cilantro and jalapeños to the sandwich, and there’s even a shop in Brooklyn that offers kielbasa banh mi!

And the jibarito, invented at a Puerto Rican restaurant in Chicago, replaces bread with flattened, fried green plantains for a steak- or porkstuffed sandwich that’s messy and monumentally satisfying.

Restaurants Answer the Call With all these exciting new sandwiches appearing on the culinary landscape, it’s not surprising that consumer research finds sandwiches are growing in popularity as a dining-out choice. Restaurant customers are looking for more interesting and innovative sandwich options, with bolder flavors and artisan bread, and chefs are stepping up to the plate.

Just ten years ago, most of us didn’t know a panino from a pancake, but now these pressed Italian sandwiches are a staple of chain and quick-service restaurants. And ethnic sandwich variations, like a Mexican torta or a falafel-stuffed pita, are not only fun and different dining options, but easy on your pocketbook, too!

discover umami

In the Middle East, the bread may be pita, split and filled, or simply rolled around crispy fried falafel balls or shavings of juicy spit-roasted lamb. In Mexico, a round, flat roll called a telera is the jumping-off point for a world of wonderful tortas, loaded up with refried beans, pickled jalapeños, mashed avocado, fresh cheese, pork in adobo and more. In Denmark, smørrebrød—literally “buttered bread”—starts with a thin slice of dense, sour rye bread and a layer of butter, topped with marinated herring, shrimp, salmon or roasted meats and colorful, complementary garnishes of vegetables, eggs or condiments.

These days, everyone’s talking about umami—the “fifth taste” that pumps up flavor. It’s found in foods like cheese, meat, mushrooms and, most famously, soy sauce.

But what many people don’t know is that where umami is concerned, two plus two adds up to way more than four. Combining two umamirich ingredients can create what food scientists call “umami synergy”—a savory flavor boost far greater than the sum of its parts.

But don’t worry—no scientific knowledge is required to put umami synergy to use in all kinds of sandwiches. Here’s how easy it can be to add big-time umami to sandwiches:

• Keep a simple “umami mayo” spread on hand to use on turkey, chicken, roast beef or cheese sandwiches—just mix 1 cup mayonnaise with 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard and 2 teaspoons Kikkoman Soy Sauce.

• Slather spicy Asian ketchup on teriyaki burgers or tonkatsu sandwiches—spike 1 cup tomato ketchup with 2 teapoons soy sauce, 2 teaspoons chili paste and 1⁄2 teaspoon fresh ginger; sweeten with 2 tablespoons dark brown sugar or palm sugar.

• Combine Kikkoman Soy Sauce, rice vinegar, sugar and a dash of sesame oil to make a great drizzling or dipping sauce for

sandwiches and salads.

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A COOK’S TOUR Chivito (Uraguay) Layer grilled steak on a bun with bacon, mayonnaise, black or green olives, mozzarella and tomatoes. Serve with a side of french fries.

Cubano (Cuba/Miami) Introduced to Miami by Cuban Americans, the Cubano consists of French or Italian bread, split, buttered and spread with mustard; layer it with roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese and pickles and grill in a sandwich press or skillet.

Sabana Steak Torta (South America) The name, from the Spanish word for “blanket,” refers to thinly pounded steak. Layer sliced grilled steak on a bolillo roll with caramelized onions, roasted peppers, jack cheese and chimichurri sauce.

Steak Pepito (Mexico) Just one of the many tasty variations on the Mexican torta. Make it by layering grilled steak, refried beans, cream cheese and guacamole on a torta bun.

Wrapped or rolled, slathered with spicy condiments or sliced into delicate fingers, sandwiches have universal appeal. Here’s how to bring home the best sandwiches from around the globe.

Falafel Sandwich (Egypt, Israel) Split a pita bread and fill with falafel—deep-fried chickpea patties—lettuce, diced cucumber and tomato, and drizzle with tahini. In Egypt, the patties are often made from fava beans instead of chickpeas.

Gyro Sandwich (Greece) Gyros made their first U.S. appearance in Chicago in the 1960s and are now found all over the country. To make it, wrap spit-roasted ground lamb or beef, tomatoes, onions and tzatziki (a garlicky cucumber-yogurt sauce) in pita bread.

Roast Beef Aram Sandwich (Middle East/Mediterranean) Slice cold roast beef and layer on soft lahvosh bread with herbed cream cheese, fresh spinach and sliced tomatoes, then roll up and slice.

Shawarma Sandwich (Middle East) Pile grilled lamb or chicken on or in pita bread with hummus, tomato, cucumber and tahini. Shawarma and gyros are both variants of the Turkish doner kebab.

asia Tikka Kebab Naan (India) Puffy naan is a flatbread that’s baked in a tandoor, or clay oven. Wrap it around grilled, garlic-and-yogurt-marinated chunks of lamb and spice it up with chutney.

Tonkatsu Sandwich (Japan) Serve a pounded pork cutlet, coated with panko and deep-fried, on white bread with Kikkoman Tonkatsu sauce.

Banh Mi (Vietnam) Layer marinated roast pork and pâté on a baguette with pickled carrots and daikon, mayo, cucumbers and cilantro. You can also make banh mi with grilled chicken, scrambled eggs or pork meatballs.

Yakisoba Pan (Japan) Sold in Japan at kombini, or convenience stores, this unusual sandwich features a hot dog bun filled with Japanese fried noodles, pickles and mayonnaise.

Yakiniku Rice Burger (Japan) The rice burger was popularized by a fastfood chain in Japan. This version layers strips of grilled beef between two rice-patty “buns” brushed with soy sauce.

seven sandwich secrets

CHECK OUT THESE QUICK SANDWICH TIPS FROM KIKKOMAN’S KITCHEN:

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1. When using sliced meat, fold or crumple it to give a sandwich more visual appeal and satisfying texture.

2. If you don’t have a sandwich press, a cast-iron grill pan works well. After putting the sandwich in the pan, place a weight, such as a light skillet, on top of the sandwich to press it down. When the first side is nicely browned, turn the sandwich over and cook the same way on the second side.

3. Sandwiches are a great way to get kids to try unfamiliar ingredients. Add to the appeal by cutting kids’ sandwiches into fun-to-eat shapes with a large cookie cutter. Soft bread works best for this.

Vada Pav (India) A favorite street food throughout India—spicy potato patties, deep-fried until crisp and golden, then piled on a bun with a trio of chutneys: tamarind, cilantro and peanut.

4. Make grilled cheese sandwiches with grated cheese instead of sliced—the cheese will melt more evenly. And always butter the bread, not the pans.

5. Leave butter out to soften so it won’t tear the bread. When it’s spreadable, beat in some Kikkoman Soy Sauce, mustard or chopped fresh herbs for extra flavor.

6. Crusty breads, like baguettes and ciabatta, can stand up to moist fillings without getting soggy, making them great for sandwiches like the muffuletta and pan bagnat.

7. In Europe, cured meats like serrano ham, prosciutto and salami are popular in sandwiches. Because of their lower moisture and higher salt content, they keep better at room temperature than fresh meat sandwiches, making them ideal for travel or lunch boxes.

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Croque Monsieur (France) This French version of the grilled ham-andcheese sandwich was first sold as a snack in bars and cafés. To make an extra-rich version, spread the bread with béchamel sauce. When topped with a baked egg, the croque monsieur becomes a croque madame.

Tea Sandwiches (England) Delicate finger sandwiches filled with butter and watercress, sliced cucumber or smoked-fish paste are an essential component of afternoon teas.

Smørrebrød (Scandinavia) Buy loaves of dense Scandinavian-style bread, and make open-faced sandwiches spread with butter and topped with meat, fish or cheese. In Denmark, shops specialize in these sandwiches and hotels offer elaborate smørrebrød tables.

Panino (Italy) Split and fill focaccia or ciabatta bread with a variety of fillings, including a soft melting cheese, such as fontina. Grill in a panini press or toast in a skillet (see “Seven Sandwich Secrets” on page 4). (By the way, “panini” is plural, and “panino” is the word for a single sandwich.)

usa Chicago-style Italian Beef Sandwich (Chicago) Soak thin slices of roast beef in gravy. Dip the cut faces of an Italian roll in the gravy and layer with the beef, then add giardiniera (a zesty vegetable relish) and sautéed sweet peppers.

Lobster Roll (New England) Toss lobster meat with mayonnaise and celery or scallions; serve on a grilled hot dog bun split open on the top. Add potato chips and dill pickles for the full New England seashore effect.

Reuben Sandwich (New York) Although there’s a strong case for Omaha being the birthplace of the Reuben, New York also lays claim to its origin.

Grill buttered rye or pumpernickel, then layer with hot corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing.

Muffuletta (New Orleans) An Italian grocer in New Orleans first started selling this sandwich in the early 1900s. Split a round, flat roll and layer with salami, various cheeses and chopped-olive salad.

Pulled Pork Sandwich (The South) Shred pork shoulder, slow-cooked in barbecue sauce, and serve on a bun with Carolina Cole Slaw (see “Great Go-Withs” on page 9). In North Carolina the sauce is vinegar-based, while Tennessee favors tomato-based barbecue sauce.

California Garden Sandwich (Los Angeles) Brush zucchini, yellow summer squash and Japanese eggplant with teriyaki sauce and layer with roasted peppers on a split baguette roll spread with herbed goat cheese.

Other fresh vegetables, grilled portobello mushrooms and even tofu are great on this vegetarian sandwich.

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Panko is popping up everywhere! These versatile Japanese-style breadcrumbs add satisfying crunch to fried shrimp and scallops and a pleasing golden crust to upscale mac ’n’ cheese. And for the best croque monsieur or tonkatsu sandwich you’ll ever taste, they’re essential.

product spotlight

Pan Bagnat (France) “Niçoise salad in a bun” is a popular snack in the street markets of Nice. To make it, hollow out a rustic loaf, fill with vegetables, hard boiled eggs, olives, anchovies and/or canned tuna; drizzle with vinegar and olive oil, then let sit for several hours under a weight so the bread soaks up the juices and the flavors mingle.

Add Crunch to Your Munch with Kikkoman Panko Bread Crumbs

Kikkoman Panko Bread Crumbs are made fresh from specially baked bread to give them a light color and airy texture. Their coarse texture and oblong shape mean they coat without “packing” like ordinary bread crumbs, providing a delicate, crisp coating for sautéed, baked or fried foods. And unlike flour, you can bread with panko well in advance of cooking and the coating won’t get soggy.

But there’s so much more panko can do. Sauté panko in butter until golden brown, stir in chopped garlic and parsley and spoon over steamed vegetables. Sprinkle panko over casseroles before baking for a light, toasty topping. And for the ultimate in French toast, dip it in panko before frying.

Add a salad or side to your sandwich, and you’ve got a complete meal:

great go-withs

europe

• Sweet Potato Oven Fries: Toss sweet potato wedges with olive oil, salt and pepper; place in roasting pan. Roast in hot oven until tender.

Drizzle with Kikkoman Soy Sauce and balsamic vinegar; roast 5 minutes more or until lightly browned.

• Cranberry-Teri Relish: Add a splash of Kikkoman Teriyaki Baste & Glaze to your favorite cranberry sauce for a tangy condiment that’s great with turkey sandwiches.

• Carolina Cole Slaw: Thinly slice cabbage, onions and green peppers; toss with a dressing made of ponzu, vegetable oil and sugar. Pile barbecued pulled pork on a soft sandwich bun and top with slaw.

• Thousand Island Dressing: Stir together mayonnaise, ketchup, chopped pickles, onions, bell peppers and hard-cooked eggs. Season with a dash of Kikkoman Soy Sauce, and you’ve got the classic accompaniment for a Monte Cristo or Reuben.

• Fresh Tomato Salsa: Mix diced tomatoes, jalapeños and onions with chopped cilantro, lime juice and a dash of Kikkoman Ponzu Sauce.

Serve with Mexican-style tortas and tostadas.

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for culinary insiders

K™ magazine is a journal of tastes, techniques and trends for food enthusiasts, published twice a year by KIKKOMAN SALES USA, INC. To subscribe or submit material for consideration, contact www.kikkomanusa.com.

www.kikkomanusa.com 415-956-7750

KIKKOMAN SALES USA, INC. 50 California Street, Suite 3600 San Francisco, CA 94111 ©2009 KIKKOMAN SALES USA, INC.

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SPRING/SUMMER 2009

Sandwich mavens agree that the earliest version of the cheesesteak— thinly sliced griddled steak piled on a hoagie bun and topped with melted cheese—was created in Philadelphia in the early 1930s. Since then, many variations have sprung up—we’ve sautéed the steak in Kikkoman Less Sodium Soy Sauce for extra-scrumptious flavor.

Vegetable oil, as needed 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons Kikkoman Less Sodium Soy Sauce 1 pound rib-eye, round or sirloin steak, thinly sliced* 1 (15-ounce) jar processed cheese spread 4 soft sandwich rolls In large nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onions and 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce; sauté until onions are soft. Add steak and cook until steak browns slightly; add remaining 1 tablespoon soy sauce and stir to combine. Place cheese on top of steak and stir until melted, mixing steak, onions and cheese together. Scoop steak mixture onto sandwich rolls.

Serves 4 *Freeze steak for easier slicing.

SPRING/SUMMER 2009

New Orleans is famous for these baguette-based versions of the submarine sandwich, filled with crispy fried seafood. For our version, we’ve chosen shrimp with a crunchy Kikkoman Panko coating. Try it with Creole mustard or a tangy rémoulade sauce made with Kikkoman Ponzu Sauce.

4 tablespoons melted butter 1 teaspoon minced garlic 4 french rolls, split and opened, leaving one side attached Vegetable oil for deep-frying 3 ⁄4 cup flour 2 tablespoons Creole seasoning

2 pounds jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined 3 eggs, beaten 2 cups Kikkoman Panko Bread Crumbs Rémoulade Sauce (recipe below) 2 cups shredded lettuce

Combine butter and garlic; brush on rolls and toast in oven until lightly browned. Heat oil to 360°F in deep fryer or heavy 2-quart saucepan.

Mix flour and Creole seasoning. Bread shrimp by dipping first into flour mixture, then into eggs; roll in panko. In batches, fry shrimp in hot oil until golden brown. Spread rémoulade sauce on rolls; top with shrimp and lettuce.

Serves 4 To make Rémoulade Sauce, mix together 1⁄2 cup mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons Kikkoman Ponzu Sauce, 1 tablespoon prepared horseradish, 1 tablespoon pickle relish, 1 teaspoon minced garlic and 1⁄2 teaspoon cayenne pepper. Makes 3⁄4 cup.

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for culinary insiders SPRING/SUMMER 2009

MONTE CRISTO The Monte Cristo, which first made an appearance in the 1920s on the menu of the now defunct Monte Cristo Hotel in Everett, Washington, is layered with cheese, ham and turkey, then deep-fried. Some like it sweet, with preserves, maple syrup or powdered sugar, while others go the savory route with a side of Thousand Island dressing. Kikkoman Panko gives this version an irresistible golden coating.

12 slices sandwich bread, crusts removed 8 slices cooked deli ham 8 slices Swiss cheese 8 slices deli turkey

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SHRIMP PO’ BOY

PHILLY CHEESESTEAK

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for culinary insiders

Vegetable oil for deep-frying 3 ⁄4 cup flour 3 eggs, beaten 3 cups Kikkoman Panko Bread Crumbs Confectioner’s sugar, for dusting

Assemble sandwiches by layering 1 slice bread, 1 slice ham, 1 slice cheese and 1 slice turkey. Repeat layering, ending with a third slice of bread. Repeat with remaining bread, ham, cheese and turkey to make a total of 4 sandwiches. Cut each sandwich into 4 triangles and secure with toothpicks. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Heat oil to 365°F in deep fryer or heavy 2-quart saucepan. Bread each sandwich triangle by dusting with flour on all sides; dip into eggs, then into panko. Carefully lower sandwich triangles into hot oil one at a time; fry until golden brown on all sides. Drain on paper towels, remove toothpicks and dust with confectioner’s sugar.

for culinary insiders SPRING/SUMMER 2009

HEARTY BEAN BURGERS California is famous for healthy living and eating, as well as the innovative way it incorporates ethnic influences into its food. These hearty bean burgers spiked with Kikkoman Black Bean Sauce are a great example of true California cuisine.

1 (15-ounce) can chili beans, drained 11⁄2 cups bran cereal 3 ⁄4 cup uncooked oatmeal 1 ⁄2 cup chopped green onions 1 ⁄4 cup Kikkoman Black Bean Sauce 1 egg, beaten 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 6 hamburger buns Lettuce leaves and sliced tomatoes In medium mixing bowl, mash beans with a fork. Add cereal, oatmeal, green onions, black bean sauce and egg; mix well. Shape into 6 patties.

In medium skillet, heat oil over medium heat; add patties. Cook, turning once to brown on both sides. (Patties can also be cooked on gas or charcoal grill.) Place 1 patty on each bun; garnish with lettuce and tomatoes and serve with your favorite condiments.

Serves 6

Serves 6 to 8 10

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