Kilgore Trout Magazine F/W 2019

F/W 2019 KILGORETROUT.COM

F W 20 19 F ORU M / THE SU B STA N CE OF STYLE

WOMEN’S TRENDS: IT’S BECOMING A PATTERN

A C A S E O F FALL FE VE R

WINNING GAME DAY STYLE

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CONTENTS

fall/ winter 2019

56 42 20

34 FEATURES

FASHION

DEPARTMENTS

18

ICON: DWYANE WADE

12

CHILLING DETAILS

2

Welcome Letter

42

SWINGING LONDON, UNCENSORED

14

TWICE AS NICE

6

Events & Pop-Ups

8

Ask Forum

20 56

58

60

FOOD: PERU, MEET JAPAN MADE-TO-MEASURE: THE RIGHT WAY, NOT RIGHT AWAY

MUST-HAVES FOR HIM: FOURTH & GOAL

32

SHEAR COMFORT

34

FALL FEVER

45

WOMEN’S ESSENTIALS: 3 HOT TRENDS

48

MUST-HAVES FOR HER: PRINTS, PLAIDS AND PALES

STYLE GUIDE: PICK YOUR PANTS

10

Profile: How Zegna Does It

44

Profile: Very Vince

62

Kilgore Trout at Your Service

64

Final Stitch: Tux Tips

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memo

This fall, there’s a new spring in our step.

O

ur Cleveland Browns aren’t the only team shaking things up this season. Here at Kilgore Trout, we’ve made some exciting changes to our lineup, too, recruiting three exceptional (dare I say first round) draft picks: Voya Nenadovic, Laura Ganley and Danielle DeHart. These consummate professionals bring with them extensive experience in the clothing business, client connections and a vibe that’s infectious. We welcome our new style advisors and their clients.

As long-time shoppers may know, we’re extremely proud of our membership in the Apparel Forum, a consortium of 14 of the top independently owned luxury apparel retailers in the nation. We meet twice each year to collaborate, innovate, share best practices and show off our stores and our cities. Check out the full list on the masthead of this magazine on page 4.

This October, it’s our turn! We’re excited to again host our members and industry guests—to wine and dine them, do some sightseeing and share our love of our hometown. Some of our visitors even plan to arrive early to catch the Browns in action. Those who miss the game may have another chance to catch our Browns this season in Super Bowl LIV. If this is your first issue of Kilgore Trout magazine, we look forward to seeing you soon, getting to know you and sharing the brands, passion and service (and eternal optimism) that have made us northeast Ohio’s foremost style resource for over 42 years. If you’re a long-time client, we thank you for your trust and look forward to introducing you to our new team members.

We appreciate your business.

Wally Naymon, Shopkeeper ATELIER MUNRO MADE-TO-MEASURE

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Good food

is a celebration of life.

- Sophia Loren

phone: 216.296.3440

email: contact@zackbruellevents.com

visit: zackbruellevents.com

Restaurants by Zachary Bruell

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ETON, 28601 CHAGRIN BOULEVARD CLEVELAND, OH 44122 216-831-0488 KILGORETROUT.COM FACEBOOK.COM/KILGORETROUTCLEVELAND Editor in Chief RITA GUARNA Creative Director STEPHEN VITARBO Senior Editor DARIA MEOLI Cleveland Editor CHRISTOPHER HIXSON Senior Associate Editor DARIUS AMOS Lifestyle Editor HALEY LONGMAN Art Director VICTORIA BEALL Contributing Photographers MATT SAYERS, DANIEL SPRINGSTON Editor at Large and Founding Editor KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

PUBLISHING STAFF Group Publisher SHAE MARCUS Director of Sales MONICA DELLI SANTI National Account Executive JESSICA SALERNO Advertising Services Director JACQUELYNN FISCHER Graphic Designer, Ad Services VIOLETA MULAJ Production Art Associate CHRIS FERRANTE Accounting AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK

APPAREL FORUM

ANDRISEN MORTON Denver, CO GARYS Newport Beach, CA HUBERT WHITE Minneapolis, MN KILGORE TROUT Cleveland, OH LARRIMOR’S Pittsburgh, PA MALOUF’S Lubbock / Southlake, TX MARIOS Portland, OR / Seattle, WA MITCHELLS Westport, CT / Huntington, NY MITCHELLS/RICHARDS Greenwich, CT OAK HALL Memphis, TN RODES Louisville, KY RUBENSTEINS New Orleans, LA STANLEY KORSHAK Dallas, TX WILKES BASHFORD San Fran/Palo Alto, CA PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN President & CEO MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY, RITA GUARNA Kilgore Trout is published by Wainscot Media, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656 in association with Kilgore Trout. Copyright © 2019 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, Kilgore Trout, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Kilgore Trout Circulation Department, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com. Printed in the U.S.A. Volume 22, Issue 2. ©2019

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in-store

events & POP-UPS

SEPTEMBER 14 Saturday

Ermenegildo Zegna Made-to-Measure

Join Ermenegildo Zegna made-to-measure specialist Laura Donati for the ultimate Su Misura experience. Discover the newest seasonal fabrics and options for made-to-measure clothing, the Casual Luxury made-to-measure collection and expanded in-stock collections of Ermenegildo Zegna clothing and footwear. Email your style advisor for a personal appointment, or stop in.

Trout Club points will be earned on Ermenegildo Zegna clothing purchases.

OCTOBER 4-5 Friday-Saturday

Samuelsohn Made-to-Measure with Magnanni Footwear Dorian Anderson of Samuelsohn will be in-store with the curated collection of super-fine wool, as well as innovative performance weaves to be individually measured, cut and sewn—masterfully crafted to your movement, posture, size and personal style. Plus, the latest from Magnanni.

Trout Club points will be earned on Samuelsohn purchases. Customary Samuelsohn made-to-measure fees will be waived for orders placed at this event.

OCTOBER 12 Saturday

Trout Club members earn points* and receive our seasonal magazine by mail

Atelier Munro Total Look Event

Accrue 1 point for every $1 in merchandise purchases, and receive a $50 reward for every 1,000 points. Then spend your reward dollars like cash during redemption periods. *Men’s footwear, alterations, shipping and sales tax are not eligible when earning or redeeming Trout Club points. Visit kilgoretrout.com for full details.

Jasper Willems, VP of Munro, arrives from Amsterdam to share the entire line and to help with your Munro made-to-measure order.

NOVEMBER 2 Saturday

Herno (Men & Women)

More events to be announced

An enhanced collection of Herno outerwear for him and her.

Connect with @kilgoretroutcleveland for the latest news.

STILL TO COME:

Kilgore Trout, 28601 Chagrin Boulevard, Cleveland, Ohio 44122 1/2 mile east of Interstate 271/Chagrin Boulevard exit Shop Monday-Saturday 10-6, Thursday 10-7

Fall Pop-Ups (dates to be announced) FOR HIM: Trask boots and shoes, Desoto knit shirts, J Brand jeans FOR HER: L’Agence and Yigal Azrouël collections

When you need us, we’re here. Stop by, call us at 216.831.0488 or email your style advisor anytime.

Wally Joel Cheryl

wnaymon@kilgoretrout.com jtstecker@kilgoretrout.com cmacmaster@kilgoretrout.com

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Voya Aaron Andrea

vnenadovic@kilgoretrout.com ajacobs@kilgoretrout.com anaymon@kilgoretrout.com

Laura Danielle General

lganley@kilgoretrout.com ddehart@kilgoretrout.com info@kilgoretrout.com

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Customize your wardrobe with Atelier Munro: Our innovative Atelier Munro desk brims with options for the modern sartorialist in search of sleek tailoring (at surprisingly friendly price points). This young and dynamic Amsterdam brand is one of our most exciting offerings. Find the looks that speak to you and start creating your own custom suits, sportcoats, shirts, ties, jeans and outerwear using our virtual showroom and extensive sample and swatch collection. Your style advisor is here to guide, inspire and make sure you get the perfect fit.

Our seasonal looks are now divided into nine categories for shopping ease: SIGNATURE – our favorite head-to-toe looks of the season CONTEMPORARY – a dressed-up professional style with a modern twist BOLD – outspoken looks that make a statement JEANS – total outfits centered around your custom jeans SUMMIT – our finest looks, featuring our premium fabrics in sartorial makes BUSINESS – a collection of work-ready, year-round essentials PERFORMANCE – clothes that wear easy and travel well EVENING – for a black-tie dress code that goes beyond basic black WEDDING – looks for grooms and guests, for every dress code

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ASK FORUM

solving your fashion dilemmas

The heat in my office gets unbearable in winter: How do I simultaneously dress for cold weather and overheated offices?

It’s called layering, and it’s the smartest way to dress in winter. Rather than a bulky sweater, try one of our fine gauge merino turtlenecks or a cashmere crew, over which you can wear a beautiful unconstructed sportcoat. Or make that second layer a vest: From cable knits to lightweight quilted styles, we offer many fashion-forward options that are both comfortable and on trend.

Tip: Wear a top-quality performance tee under your first layer for extra comfort and temperature control; fabric technology has advanced tremendously in recent seasons so that a simple tee can keep you warmer in the cold and cooler in your overheated office.

I’ve been living in sneakers all summer and I dread the thought of squeezing my feet into rigid dress shoes. Any fall footwear options that are both comfortable and stylish?

Yes! The footwear market feels your pain and is offering many variations of hybrid shoes that combine a beautiful soft leather upper with a comfort bottom. Soft leather or suede slip-ons and lace-ups are just as comfortable as canvas sneakers…and notably elevate your style.

Come in and check out our fabulous assortment of fall footwear.

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Why do I need to buy expensive underwear when it doesn’t show?

Let us count the ways: 1. A great fit. The right base layer makes everything you wear over it look better. Pant styles these days are slimmer, and your old bulky underwear could ruin your look. 2. For comfort. New luxury performance fabrics feel incredibly soft and breathable. 3. To save the planet. Many tech fabrics are sustainably sourced. 4. For easy care. Tech fabrics come out of the washer and dryer looking like new. 5. For their many amazing properties. The wicking, anti-microbial, quick-dry, odor-control and temperature-control of these undies make them worth it. 6. When was the last time you replaced the underwear in your drawer? If your boxers and briefs are old, frayed, stretched out and embarrassingly gray, it’s time! And 7.

Wearing the good stuff will make you look and feel younger and sexier. Need we say more?

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profile

how zegna

DOES IT

The century-old menswear brand prospers by exploring what’s new—and reworking what’s old.

By Karen Alberg Grossman

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What makes a familyowned and -operated clothing company become an international icon?

Ask the professionals at Ermenegildo Zegna.

Their company has helped to set the standard of excellence for luxury menswear since 1910, when Ermenegildo Zegna bought his father’s woolen looms and began a clothing business. Always looking to the future, the firm, now in its fourth generation, is much more than elegant suits. It’s one of the planet’s largest fabric producers (with its own sheep farm in New South Wales, purchased in 2014); it’s active in promoting improvements in wool production; it’s a philanthropic titan (beginning with reforestation projects in the 1930s, before such work was fashionable, and now supporting the arts, environmental education and conservation efforts). The people at Zegna are textile innovators and fashion leaders. If you own a certain limited-edition Maserati, you will note that the leather, silk and wool herringbone interior is crafted of Zegna fabrics.

For fall ’19, Zegna’s textile technology expertise is in full view with entire new categories of men’s apparel. The Achill suit, for example, is made entirely with wool remnants from Zegna’s Achill Farm, discarded during the process of suit making and then remixed and rewoven. (The facility was purchased as a model farm, largely for research and development purposes. Says Paolo Zegna, chairman of the business: “We want this farm to be transparent, to tell the complete story of a beautiful product.”) Zegna’s high-performance Packaway suit is amazing for wrinkle-free traveling, and its exclusive Techmerino Wash & Go collection can miraculously be machine-laundered. Talk about fabric innovation—Zegna’s recent launches are truly transforming the

menswear industry.

Fall ’19 is also a season when formal and casual categories seamlessly blend.

Sportcoats have outerwear pockets; shirts become jackets; cargo pants are sartorially designed. Even quilted puffer jackets are constructed in Zegna’s tailoring atelier, acquiring an elevated touch. Full trousers narrow toward elasticized bottoms, and knits are increasingly important. And for your feet, Zegna offers up bold-soled zippered boots or multi-material sneakers.

It’s a season to have fun with fashion.

But beyond fabulous fashion, Zegna’s sustainability and recycling efforts deserve special mention. Under the hashtag #UseTheExisting, the fall ’19 collection is crafted with exclusive wool, cashmere and nylon fabrics created from existing sources via innovative processes. The result is luxurious fabrics that are recycled as well as recyclable. Zegna is also involved in restoring a rundown suburb of Milan. Its efforts will turn a wasteland into a hub for wellness and science, replete with green parks and new residential areas.

Says Zegna creative director Alessandro Sartori: “It is our duty as denizens of this world to live responsibly. I want to do it using the creative means I have at my disposal, which extend from fabric-making to tailoring to producing a fashion show.

Everything we do conveys our underlying concept: we do not need to create new from scratch; we can reuse and reinvent the existing, crafting inventive fabrics out of discarded ones, translating traditional techniques into innovative tailoring, turning an abandoned place into an area of creation.”

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N I C O | M I D B R OW N

M AG N A N N I .CO M

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must-haves

chilling

DETAILS

Coats, jackets, vests: check! Now all you need are cold-weather accessories.

Brown leather and suede gloves add a rustic yet refined touch to your outerwear wardrobe.

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These cozy scarves will keep you warm and provide subtle pops of color.

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clothes talk

TWICE AS NICE A few key pieces can offer endless options for looking sharp when you’re heading to the office, having drinks with friends or running weekend errands.

Photography by Dan Springston

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High Performance A navy suit in a performance fabric will keep you comfortable while looking professional.

For double duty, style the jacket as a layering piece to create a more casual vibe.

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clothes talk

Mad about Plaid Think patterns are less versatile than solids? Think again.

You can mix and match this season’s coolest plaids into several looks.

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Tight Knit Chunky cardigans are a go-to layering piece over a shirt and tie or a basic tee.

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man of style:

DWYANE WADE Recently retired basketball star Dwyane Wade takes bold fashion shots—and usually scores. By Darius Amos Dwyane Wade played above the rim for 16 NBA seasons, but that’s all over now. The 2019 season was the hoopster’s last, and he had the clarity and class to go out while still a dynamo. What decidedly isn’t over is Wade’s era as a much-watched public figure, active in supporting worthy causes and often capturing cameras’ eyes because of his keen sense of style.

Life hasn’t been all fame and glory. Wade grew up in a rough neighborhood on Chicago’s South Side, often surrounded by violence and crime. His parents split up when he was just 4 months old, and his mother was in and out of jail for drug violations. But throughout those troubling times, Wade turned to basketball as a distraction. He gravitated toward the Windy City’s pro team, the Bulls, and a player named Jordan. But he really fell in love with the sport while watching his older stepbrother play on his high school team. By the time it was Wade’s turn to play high school hoops, coaches and scouts already saw his passion and recognized his potential.

“You definitely start thinking about the journey and the beginning and how it all started,” Wade told the Los Angeles Times on the eve of his retirement.

Wade went on to play at Marquette University, earning first-team All-America honors during his junior season in 2003. That year, he carried the team to the Conference USA crown and its first Final Four appearance in 26 years. He was selected fifth overall by the Miami Heat in the 2003 NBA draft, and was named to the All-Rookie Team in 2004. Draft night was memorable for another reason: Wade’s oversized navy windowpane suit that, by today’s standards, had too many buttons and too much flowy fabric.

“It’s funny when you look back at suits—nobody was doing tight stuff,” Wade said in an interview with the sports culture website Bleacher Report. “The hip-hop culture was big then. For the time, I was fresh.

It wasn’t as classic as I wanted it to be.”

What did turn out to be classic was Wade’s teaming with Shaquille O’Neal, the league’s most dominant player, whom Miami acquired before the 2004–05 season. “I’m here to support you,” O’Neal said to him in their first conversation, as Wade later told Sports Illustrated. “I’m here to make you one of the best players in the world.”

Maybe Shaq knew Wade was already on that path. He finished his career at age 37 with three championship rings (including one with O’Neal), 13 All-Star selections, a scoring title, a Finals MVP trophy, two Olympic medals (a gold in 2008) and a host of other accolades and hardware. One of his most defining moments happened off the court in 2010, when Wade, by then the face of the Heat franchise, checked his own ego and stardom at the door (as well as probably millions of dollars) and helped Miami attract an even bigger star, LeBron James.

“How many guys are willing to do that?” former Heat coach Erik Spoelstra said at the time. “He has incredible emotional intelligence.”

Spoelstra forgot to mention style IQ as well. Wade matured after his draft-day blunder and has been building a fashion legacy ever since.

After he signed his first contract and took care of his family, his first big-money purchase was a suit; following his first endorsement deal, he bought a custom suit. In 2006 Wade hired a stylist—who’s with him to this day—to help polish his image and build a new wardrobe filled with such brands as Valentino, Burberry and Tom Ford. Today he has a line of ties, bow ties and pocket squares with The Tie Bar, and he’s often seen wearing a Dolce & Gabbana blazer for a clean, tailored look or donning a Dsquared leather moto for something a little edgier. This past year, he hosted the seventh annual fashion show fundraiser, “A Night on the RunWade,” in Miami.

Though he and his wife, actress Gabrielle Union, continue to wow on the red carpet—he was a slam dunk at a recent Metropolitan Museum of Art after-party in a slick black suit, T-shirt and sneakers—Wade isn’t afraid to take fashion risks (and the jabs that come with them). In fact, Union has joined former NBA player Kobe Bryant and others in a viral video roasting Wade for some of his outfits.

A leader on the court and in front of the lens, Wade, whose “roller-coaster journey” will be documented in a memoir due this fall, also quietly gives back to the community. To see how, check out another viral video produced by Budweiser to honor the man of the hour.

The four-minute set features five guests who share the unique ways Wade touched their lives. Among the speakers: a student whose family couldn’t afford to send her to college, a sister of a young shooting victim and Wade’s mother. Be sure you have a tissue or two handy.

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fashion

KILGORE TROUT MUST-HAVES FOR HIM

FOURTH & GOAL Get ready for a season to remember.

Produced by CHRISTOPHER HIXSON Photographed by JIM MARTIN Post-production by MIKE STEINER Styling by CHRISSY STONE and AARON JACOBS

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FAN FAVORITE Opposite page: HERNO ultralight bomber worn over AUTUMN CASHMERE hoodie, JAMES PERSE cotton T-shirt, J BRAND French terry four-way stretch jean This page: HERNO "Clima" cashmere jacket with removable vest insert worn over GIANNETTO PORTOFINO brushed cotton shirt, MASON’S tricotine stretch cotton trouser

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LARDINI wool jersey travel suit with drawstring waist trousers, DESOTO graphic print cotton knit shirt

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ETRO wool cableknit turtleneck, GIANNETTO PORTOFINO vintage washed cotton shirt, MASON’S herringbone tweed cotton trouser

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FIRST ROUND PICK Z ZEGNA color block bomber over printed cashmere sweater, drawstring waist track pant, "Primo" sneaker

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ETRO wool knit tweed trouser, wool/mohair/alpaca "Nuevo Jersey" walking coat with printed lining, 100% wool cableknit turtleneck

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HERNO tape-seamed rain jacket over GIANNETTO PORTOFINO cotton flannel shirt, MASON’S corduroy cargo trouser with drawstring waist

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SAMUELSOHN wool/silk/cashmere jacket with removable vest insert, GRAN SASSO merino wool turtleneck, HILTL 5-pocket wool trouser

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A.P.C. wool flannel and denim quilted shirt jacket, wool turtleneck, "Cadence" 5-pocket button fly jean

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MVP STYLE STONE ISLAND double-dyed brushed cotton and nylon coat with water-repellent finish over wool zip cardigan, modern cargo pant, COMMON PROJECTS sneakers

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MASON’S wool flannel jacket with zipout vest and hood, DESOTO printed cotton knit shirt, S.M.N STUDIO "Hunter" standard slim 5-pocket jean

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GAME DAY READY BOGNER mixed media fleece and lightweight down hooded jacket

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{

Lone Pine Urban shearling car coat, made exclusively in the USA

The right shearling for whatever Mother Nature throws your way this winter.

SHEAR

Comfort

Produced by CHRISTOPHER HIXSON Photographed by JIM MARTIN Post-production by MIKE STEINER

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{

Bogner Shearling bomber jacket, perfect for game day

{

Gimo’s Around town shearling and knit hooded moto jacket

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fall

FEVER You know the symptoms: You yearn to put away the polos and put on the hottest coldweather styles.

Photography by Dan Springston

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This page, on her: dress by Vince (by special order).

On him: Suit, shirt, tie and shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna.

Opposite: Jacket and jeans

by Isaia, shirt by Giannetto Portofino and pocket square by Eton.

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This page: Suit, tie and pocket square by Canali and shirt by Isaia.

Opposite: Jacket by Peter Millar, turtleneck by Ermenegildo Zegna.

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This page: Suit and turtleneck by Ermenegildo Zegna.

Opposite: Floral shirt

by Vince.

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On this page: Hooded jacket, knit sweater and pants by Vince (by special order).

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SUPERB FIT. CURATED FABRICS. EUROPEAN LUXURY.

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lens flair

swinging london,

UNCENSORED Photographer Frank Habicht captured the ironies, surprises and joys of Britain’s capital in the 1960s, when it rocked the world. By Donna Rolando

What a contrast! London, a city steeped in bowler-hatted tradition with a history dating back to Roman times, was shedding its buttoned-up reputation to embrace the spirit of freedom in a revolution that spanned all aspects of life—love, fashion, music and culture.

In the ’60s, as the usually staid capital of the British Commonwealth mixed with pop culture in a way sure to raise the Queen’s eyebrows, the whole world was watching. Millions were ready to groove along with London’s mod crowd as an advance guard of worldwide hippiedom. And there, capturing this profound social change with unbridled passion, was German photographer Frank Habicht.

Today he has traded an international career for life in New Zealand, celebrating the landscape and community around the Bay of Islands. But when the ’60s revolution was in full swing, Habicht was London-based, with an audience throughout Europe in publications such as Esquire and The Guardian, and

was working as a stills photographer for film directors including Roman Polanski.

For an artist devoted to illustrating life’s contrasts, the Swinging ’60s provided endless opportunity to explore, as Habicht put it, “what hides behind the human soul.” Some of his most celebrated photos captured pop idols and film stars, such as rock musicians Mick Jagger and The Rolling Stones, actress Vanessa Redgrave and actors Christopher Lee and Marty Feldman. But Habicht turned the lens with equal devotion to the girl next door, in the latest groovy, psychedelic fashions such as miniskirts and go-go boots, or in nothing at all.

It was realism, uncensored, by a camera genius highlighting a great city’s diversity, spanning, as one writer attested, from “protests to private parties, markets to mansions, film sets to festivals.” He used black-andwhite film as though fearful that color might compromise authenticity (despite the color-besotted fashions of Carnaby Street),

and he produced a treasure trove of artistry worthy of many exhibits and photo books. The latest such volume, entitled As It Was: Frank Habicht’s Sixties, is available internationally at bookstores and art galleries and on Amazon.

Released at a time when Britain is again in the throes of social change, As It Was contains never-before-published images that show the same candidness that marks his famous work.

Critics prize Habicht for poising himself at the center of a social storm. It seems the photographer wouldn’t have it any other way.

He admits that life’s complexities astound him, and that his photos can blur the lines of reality and fantasy, “capturing togetherness, despair, rebellion, isolation, joy and sadness, surrounded by beauty and drama.” Some say digging into life’s ironies is how Habicht reflected the restless heart of a city so masterfully.

Whether you’re a hippie in spirit or just an appreciator of ’60s fashion, As It Was is a coffee-table addition that’s unlikely to gather dust.

Opposite page, clockwise from top: “Marriage a la Mode” (top) shows a ’60s remake of wedding tradition, which Habicht instinctively captures in his truer-than-life style; youth and maturity, pop culture and traditional workplace garb come together as part of everyday life; floppy hats and starburst eye makeup (left) reflect a generation’s independent spirit.

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profiles

VINCE

evolution

President and creative director Johnathan Crocker tells how a denim brand expanded, shed its vowels—and kept its soul. By Karen Alberg Grossman

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It’s not too often a fashion brand comes along that’s modern but wearable, edgy but not over the edge. Yet Johnathan Crocker, new creative director and president of BLDWN (formerly Baldwin), had that vision for a celebrated men’s denim brand, seeking to turn it into a complete contemporary collection with denim at its core.

With roots in Kansas City, Baldwin Denim

was founded in 2019 by Matt and Emily Baldwin. Under their direction, the brand was named one of “The Best New Menswear Designers in America” by GQ in 2013 and was also a finalist for the Vogue/Council of Fashion Designers of America fashion award in 2015. Crocker met the Baldwins in New York City two years ago and was soon asked to join their company. “I was just leaving a long tenure at AG and didn’t want to jump into something immediately,” he says. “So I began consulting for Baldwin in August 2017; after five months, I came on full time as president.”

Crocker’s background includes a degree in communications, teaching English and history, advertising and working in publishing (The New Yorker, Details, Modern Luxury) before joining AG, where he collaborated closely with the design team and became VP of global communications. His first move at Baldwin was to open an office in Los Angeles (25 people) while keeping a satellite office (eight people) in Kansas City.

“I believed that building a global brand required moving elements of the business (design, communications, production, retail, e-commerce, sales) from KC to LA,” he says. “We officially opened our L.A. office in March of last year. It provides us cost- and time-savings benefits and access to a larger fashion talent pool. Our headquarters (finance, HR and some logistics) and our heritage remain in Kansas City.”

Crocker is passionate about maintaining that heritage while modernizing the collection, which now comprises both men’s and women’s fashion. “We use top-quality fabrics, mostly Japanese denim with minimal distressing and less rip and repair for a clean and elevated aesthetic,” he says. “All of our denim is substantial, meaning it feels like denim, not like yoga pants. Our focus is on fit and comfort.”

Crocker also redesigned the logo (dropping two vowels to signal a change with the brand and to reflect a more modern and “architectural” direction) and began building a collection that’s contemporary but not stark and sterile. “American design is rooted in function and utility,” he explains. “With BLDWN, each snap, zipper and seam serves a purpose; every item is designed to be relevant now and in years to come.”

The inspiration for BLDWN’s fall ’19 collection is NYC bohemian: a high/low juxtaposition influenced by artists and musicians of the late ’60s and early ’70s such as Lou Reed, Brian Jones, Stephen Shore and Glenn O’Brien. That calls for modern takes on American workwear, as the timeless, easy-to-wear pieces in the fall ’19 collection examine the role these functional items played in music subcultures.

“It’s a challenging time to be in the fashion industry,” confides Crocker, “but we’re incredibly excited to tell our story.”

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must-haves

3 hot

trends Wearing any one— or all three—of the newest styles will have you looking au courant.

JEWEL TONES Who says bright hues are just for summer? These gem-colored pieces are both bold and autumnal.

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must-haves LAYERING Everyone loves a cardigan, and in a shade of charcoal, like this sweater by Naadam, it’s an easy layering piece that will take you through the whole season.

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WILD SIDE Leopard print—in both tonal and contrasting colors—is a cool touch in a range of pieces from pants to camisoles to scarves.

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KILGORE TROUT MUST-HAVES FOR HER

PRINTS AND PLAIDS AND PALES. OH, MY. Produced by CHRISTOPHER HIXSON Photographed by JIM MARTIN Post-production by MIKE STEINER Styling by CHRISSY STONE

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L’AGENCE "Marguerite" skinny jean in lapis, "Ryder" suede moto jacket in red stone over cashmere and silk sweater; SMYTHE patch pocket "Duchess" blazer worn over "Frontier" 3/4 sleeve calico blouse

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OH, MY.

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VINCE silk slip dress and cashmere crew sweater; HERNO faux fur quilted teddy bear coat; JONATHAN SIMKHAI belted rose plaid cigarette pant and cashmere blouson shoulder sweater

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SMYTHE patch pocket "Duchess" blazer worn over L’AGENCE v-neck cotton tee, HUDSON "Barbara" ankle jean with micro stud detail; RAG & BONE "Theon" varsity cable knit sweater in extra fine merino wool and pebble leather cross-body bag; VERONICA BEARD double-breasted leather jacket over BRODIE graphic print cashmere sweater, HUDSON python print mid-rise pant; VERONICA BEARD tuxedo stripe plaid trouser and wool sweater with ruched silk sleeves

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L’AGENCE spotted animal print denim jacket over jersey turtleneck and "Margot" cropped skinny jean with exposed zipper detail; VERONICA BEARD "Lillian" blouse with laced ruched sleeve and "Honolulu" leopard skinny cropped pant; GIMO’S grid-quilted reversible down coat and HESTRA lamb leather gloves

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OH, MY.

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food

peru, meet

JAPAN!

Two fish-loving nations get together in the kitchen, with delicious results. By Donna Rolando

There are chefs who cringe at the word “fusion” for its whiff of shallow trendiness. But whatever you call it, tasty things can happen when two cuisines collide, and one of the hottest such combos these days is Peruvian/ Japanese fare. After making waves in Europe, this food phenomenon is catching on in cities like Miami and New York, and one taste of it will probably make you glad the two traditions met. This may be just the gastronomic sizzle you need to lift you out of your dining rut or make an impression on date night.

The name Nikkei describes a population of Japanese who immigrated to Peru in the late 19th century, along with their descendants. But in time the word has also come to signify their cuisine itself, a reflection of life and culture built into recipes over generations that runs deeper than the word fusion might suggest. It is no stranger to mainstream Peruvian kitchens.

We know that mere proximity—as with oil and water—does not make the right mix for any recipe, let alone many. So what is it about the marriage of spicy Peruvian and delicate Japanese cuisine that warrants your taste buds’ immediate attention? The answer lies under the sea. The two cultures have in common a heavy reliance on fresh fish in the diet, and the Japanese have put their own take on Peruvian ingredients, such as limes, corn, aji chili peppers, yucca and potatoes. Even the Peruvian staple ceviche has been reshaped in Japanese kitchens in a process that shaves hours off its prep time.

Yes, Nikkei has flourished in the South American melting pot that is Peru, a land known for a bounty of cultural influences in the kitchen that have contributed to its reputation for world-class fine dining. The fact that the Nikkei eatery Maido in Lima recently ranked No. 7 on the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” list, judged by a panel of 1,000+ culinary experts, says a lot.

Yet if you live in the States, Nikkei is likely to have escaped your radar or hidden itself on the menu under the heading of Japanese-style dishes.

(Do Japanese curry-filled empanadas ring any bells? If so, you may have already sampled Nikkei.) Surprisingly for a country always searching for the next food revolution, America has been slow to jump on this culinary bandwagon, but restaurants such as Midtown Manhattan’s Sen Sakana (which translates to “one thousand fish”) are working hard to change that.

Step inside Sen Sakana and you’ll find flavorful combinations, such as crispy seafood with salsa criolla or quinoa-crusted chicken breast with black vinegar nanban sauce, and sides that include corn, asparagus and Japanese sweet potato. The fact that octopus and eel are featured on the menu is a mark of the Japanese influence. The Japanese raw fish dish tiradito is an example of where “sashimi meets ceviche” in a Peruvian yellow pepper mango sauce.

If Nikkei has more history than some combo cuisines, it’s also true that it’s still evolving. Says Sen Sakana: “It is a cuisine whose identity is constantly being redefined and enriched, making it an exciting one to work with.”

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OTHER FUSIONS TO TRY Peruvian/Japanese cuisine, known as Nikkei, is just one example of the creative blending of two food traditions. These other cultural combinations are also worth sampling at some mealtime very soon: GREEK/AMERICAN What it is: The evolution of Greek cuisine prepared by Greek-Americans and their offspring under the influence of American culture.

What to try: A Greek-American gyro with meat (perhaps lamb), olive oil, tomatoes, onions, french fries and tzatziki sauce (yogurt, garlic and cucumber) served as we’ve come to expect it to be—in a pita so crammed that two hands are required. A Greek-American taverna is also a good place to discover pastitsio, baked layers of thick pasta with ground meat; or souvlaki, chunks of meat and sometimes veggies served on a skewer.

EAST ASIAN/ITALIAN What it is: It’s not just about the noodles, although that is an obvious connection between Italy and East Asian lands such as Japan or China. A culinary philosophy is also shared: letting ingredients stand out for their own qualities.

What to try: Spaghetti with miso or linguine with tomato and uni (Japanese for sea urchin), the latter being no stranger to today’s restaurant menus across the country. Or go beyond noodles to indulge in a head-on fish prepared with Italian Castelvetrano olives, capers, Cantonese ginger and scallion.

LEBANESE/MEXICAN What it is: Lebanese immigrants to Mexico have fused their culinary style into Mexican cuisine, even creating their own taco—the al pastor—among many novel dishes.

What to try: Don’t be surprised on your travels through Mexico to find Lebanese-inspired kibbeh, a turnover-like fried dough fritter packed with minced ground beef and chopped onion. Or you can sample taquitos de parra, made of grape or cabbage leaves stuffed with ground meat, rice and garlic.

JAMAICAN/PHILIPPINE What it is: The culinary influence of Asians who immigrated to Jamaica over the last century.

What to try: Whole jerk roast duck flavored with Scotch bonnet peppers and allspice.

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Sushi ceviche marries archetypes of Peruvian and Japanese cuisine.

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the right way, not RIGHT AWAY “Customizing” a garment in a hurry online doesn’t make it custom-made for you. Try true made-to-measure instead. By Darius Amos Seeing is believing, as they say—but not when you’re purchasing a made-to-measure suit. Any garment can look good on a computer screen, and it may be stunning hanging in your closet. But will it feel great when you try it on?

In the world of custom suiting, your sense of touch will respond acutely to the differences between a garment handsewn by a tailor and a piece manufactured quickly by an internet company. Of course, some online businesses create excellent products using your measurements—which you record and supply yourself—and a dozen or so personalized elements. But a few clicks of a mouse can’t guarantee the use of impeccable fabrics, a perfect fit and a selection of details that runs the gamut. These are things, however, a Kilgore Trout customer has come to expect.

For decades, our team of made-to-measure experts has been customizing the finest garments precisely to your specifications and personal taste, from size and fit right down to jacket lapel style and thread color—all the sartorial details that matter.

Looking and feeling your best is the name of the game, and great fabric will always drape better than an inferior product. Bonus: A well-made fabric is softer and stronger and will outlast a stiffer and cheaper cloth (which many online retailers use), making a suit custom-made by us the wiser investment. Our made-to-measure program uses fabrics from the world’s finest mills such as Loro Piana and Ermenegildo Zegna, which source the best raw materials like wool from Australia and New Zealand. The bottom line? You’ll get a suit made from the highest-quality fabric that’ll make you look

even more handsome. Another bonus: A tailor-made suit will come with an ample fabric reserve (in case you have to make anything bigger down the road), while a garment made online will cut costs and minimize the use of material when possible.

We also ensure proper fit. Yes, an online suit maker creates jackets, pants and vests based on the exact measurements you provide, and your order may fit like a glove—that is, until you start moving. Our made-to-measure experts consider your daily activities so that your pieces continue to look good when you’re doing everyday things. Sitting at a conference table or reaching for a book on the top shelf? Our tailors guarantee you don’t have to worry about a collar gap or your jacket bunching at the neck.

You can also distinguish one of our made-to-measure suits from an online customized garment when you feel the inside of the jacket. For the lining, we suggest high-end silk or cotton versus inexpensive options like polyester blends, which can overheat the wearer. The interlining (the material between the suit’s inner and outmost fabrics) should be sewn in place, rather than glued or fused. An easy way to determine the quality is to pinch the upper layer of the fabric: A superior garment will be soft and flexible; an inexpensive suit will feel stiff and thick.

Our style pros and tailors will take nearly two dozen of your measurements and personalized options (handmade buttonholes, anyone?) to create a piece that looks and feels just right. So log off your computer and give made-to-measure a try. We promise you’ll never look back.

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style guide

pick your

PANTS

For the best look, select the right style for your body type and personality.

By Karen Alberg Grossman What makes a great-fitting pant? Experts say it’s a matter of proportion: the relationship of rise to seat to leg opening. Because every brand is different and there’s no universal fit, don’t shop by waist and inseam alone; try on a few different brands and models to see which best complements your body type—and, of course, your personal style!

In general, pants for fall ’19 are still slim but not tight, a bit looser on top than last year’s but still narrow on the bottom.

Expect to see some athleisure influences (drawstring waists, elasticized bottoms) and rolled bottoms for those who dare. Cropped styles are trending, but more for spring ’20, worn with sandals, sneakers (sans socks) or bare feet!

Other things you should know about fall ’19 trousers: As a general rule, the bottom of the pant should graze the top of the shoe, covering the very top of the heel. As one Italian pants maker told us, “Americans still wear their pants much too long, whereas Italians wear them much too short.”

Printed bottoms, classic menswear patterns (herringbone, plaids, stripes) and novelties are trending among fashion types.

For those who want to be noticed, go for it!

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SLIM-FIT FIVE-POCKET PANTS, especially in to-

day’s performance fabrics with stretch, are modern, comfortable and a good fit for almost all body types. They look great worn with everything from tees and turtlenecks to shirts, ties and sport coats. This is clearly the most popular pant model these days.

FLATFRONT PANTS with on-seam side

pockets work best for trim physiques and athletic builds.

Unless it’s a stretch fabric, hefty guys will find this model a tight squeeze.

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CARGO POCKETS are back in certain circles. A strictly casual look, these are not great with tailored sportcoats.

MODIFIED SINGLE-PLEAT

dress and casual pants have recently been reintroduced in the menswear market. The new pleat is shorter, subtler, more like a dart than a pleat. It updates the old pleated models and works for all body types! Since it doesn’t add much volume, it’s slimming and flattering. That said, most American men will wait awhile before going back to pleats of any kind.

TODAY’S MODERN PANT is

proportioned so that it’s somewhat looser in the thigh and narrower toward the bottom.

Sometimes executed in knit jersey fabrics with drawstring waists, these pants look great on everyone and work especially well for portly guys who need extra room at the waistline. Comfort is key!

HIGH-RISE, MULTI-PLEATED, VOLUMINOUS PANTS are getting much

press on the runways. This exaggerated look is Japanese-inspired and very contemporary.

Today it looks silly on almost everyone, even gorgeous young models. Still, never say never: this could end up becoming the next big thing in streetwear.

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always &

ALL WAYS The Kilgore Trout style advisors are here to help.

MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience and for hard-to-fit guys, indulge in madeto-measure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers—even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will be a fit like no other.

ALTERATIONS With four full-time master tailors, seamstresses and pressers on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to having the finest tailoring shop in Cleveland.

Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new, regular-priced purchase.

BUTTON UP A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suit or outerwear with buttons that need assistance and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge. We like you looking your best, down to the details. We’ll also handle other repairs and alterations for a small fee.

CUSTOMER LOUNGE

SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS We know your time is valuable. Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs. Just call 216.831.0488 and we’ll make it happen.

HOME & OFFICE VISITS Sometimes life or business gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store.

No worries. We’re always available to come to your home or office.

PERSONAL DELIVERY If you need to have a purchase hand-delivered within the Cleveland/Akron area, just let us know. We also ship worldwide.

CLOSET CLEANING One of our professional style advisors will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. An experienced tailor can also be on hand to provide any fitting or readjustments you may need. If you desire, we’ll provide a photographic catalog of your wardrobe for your future reference.

BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS Developing lasting personal relationships helps our style advisors select items that they know you will enjoy, and eases your shopping experience. We’ll always do everything we can to make you look and feel your best.

In a hectic world, we need to take advantage of the simple pleasures—if only for a few minutes. Take a seat in our customer lounge, kick back with a freshly brewed cappuccino or bottled water and enjoy a bit of the game on our big screen. We’re happy to provide a moment of solitude when you need it most.

TROUT CLUB REWARD PROGRAM Earn points with every qualifying purchase and receive this magazine by mail each season: 1 point for every $1 in merchandise purchased—even sale items (excludes services/footwear). Rewards are issued equivalent to 5% of your total Trout Club points, so that’s a $50 reward for every $1,000 spent. Twice each year, we’ll email you a summary of your available Trout Club rewards.

GIFT CARDS A Kilgore Trout gift card is always a perfect fit. Our gift cards are available in any denomination and arrive in a gift box, ready to give. Purchase in store or over the phone. We’ll ship it to the recipient.

CLOTHING DONATIONS Service to our community is every bit as important as service to our customers.

Declutter your closet while helping a good cause. Drop off your discarded, yet wearable, items anytime and we’ll donate them to a local charity providing clothing for Clevelanders re-entering the workplace.

CONVENIENCE Kilgore Trout is just a half-mile from Interstate 271 at Eton Chagrin Boulevard, the region’s finest shopping experience with great dining options and more than 50 retailers to satiate your every desire. Eton even has an on-site shoe shine vendor. Need to know more? Call us at 216.831.0488.

CONNECT WITH US Connect with @kilgoretroutcleveland on Facebook and Instagram for the latest news, trends and events.

ETON 28601 Chagrin Boulevard, Cleveland, Ohio 44122 216.831.0488, kilgoretrout.com Shop Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Thursday 10 a.m.–7 p.m.

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SHIRT COLLAR

The wing—a stand-up collar with downward points—is the most formal style, while the mandarin or band collar offers a more contemporary look. Prefer to wear a necktie instead of a bow tie? The wide spread collar is a great option.

tux

TIPS

SHIRT FRONT

Every man can look incredible in a tuxedo—as long as it’s the right one.

By Darius Amos Most of us aren’t walking the red carpet or accepting an Academy Award. But dressing to the nines for a wedding or gala is something we’ve all done—and it’s likely you’ll attend another formal event where looking sharp is part of the agenda. Of course, you don’t get to wear a tuxedo every day (not even George Clooney does that), so when you invest in the ultimate piece of formal wear, its style and fit should be nothing shy of impeccable. Consider these things before you suit up for something special:

A shirt front with no placket and concealed buttons is clean and contemporary while a pleated front worn with studs adds textural interest. For a classic, elegant look, try a smooth bib-front shirt, perhaps in a pique fabric, with room for studs.

JACKET LAPEL

You know the choices: peak, shawl and notch. Wear a silk-faced peak lapel for highly formal occasions and a rounded shawl style when you want to soften your look. While versatile, a notch lapel is the least formal for a tuxedo.

JACKET SHOULDER

Don’t overlook this detail. The padding of your tux jacket should not extend beyond the tip of your shoulders (no shoulder divot). If it does, your jacket is too big.

JACKET CUT

While you can’t go wrong with a traditional-cut jacket, a modern fit, which is trimmer through the chest and shoulder, offers fashion-forward styling and a flattering silhouette—and it’s still appropriate for any black-tie event.

SLEEVE LENGTH

When paired with a properly fitted shirt, the jacket sleeve should show a half-inch of the shirt cuff—just enough for others to see your cuff links.

JACKET LENGTH

We’ll work with you if you’re an NBA center, but for the regular guy, the piece should cover your backside. Another guide: With your arms at your side, the jacket should end between your thumb’s knuckle and base.

PANT LEG WIDTH

Find a cut that flatters your waist, thighs and calves. Pay attention to how the fabric drapes—anything too tight will create wrinkles, while too much material will be baggy.

PANT LEG LENGTH

Pants should have half or no break. See your tailor immediately if they are bunching at your ankles (or if your ankles are showing). The half break is the standard, showing a slight dent where the hem rests on the top of the shoe.

SHOES

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Patent loafers and oxfords, traditionally worn with a tux, are best suited for the most formal events. Both styles in suede or polished leather will give you a lowkey look.

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